June 23, 2012 Vintages Release
For the past 7½ years, in over 180 newsletters, winecurrent published ratings and reviews of wines offered in the Vintages Release catalogue roughly every two weeks along with wines generously sent by agents and Ontario wineries—a lot of time and wine under the bridge. Volunteer contributors include Mark Tandan, Dave Isaacs, Lindsay Groves, and recently Susan Desjardins, who took over while I traveled. A huge debt of gratitude is owed Susan. All contributed to winecurrent’s ongoing success. Along with the privilege of tasting thousands of wines per year, came the responsibility of writing, re-writing and sometimes agonizing over ratings and reviews. Sincere thanks to them for rising to the challenge and bolstering winecurrent’s credibility and readership. Webmaster, Dave Isaacs also contributed immeasurably.Overall time constraints, plus recent changes to the tasting schedule of Vintages Releases caused me to re-evaluate priorities. The LCBO recently shortened considerably the access time allotted for tasting Vintages Release wines. This does not leave sufficient time in the 3½ hours now allotted to professionally taste, evaluate and write notes on those slated for review—there are +200 wines on offer. It would require multiple tastings to cover all wines properly. It’s also time for me to take on less, enjoying some downtime.
For the above reasons, I didn’t attend the recent tasting. In spite of that, there are wines from this release reviewed below, all tasted previously plus 17 additional wines reviewed after the Main Release. The next edition of winecurrent will include July 7 Vintages Release wines tasted previously, as well as wines shipped for tasting and review from agents and wineries. It will be the final winecurrent newsletter published. However, all reviews are archived on winecurrent.com and will remain accessible for a period of time.
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Exceptional value wines – five wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’; one in New in the LCBO Portfolio at $11.95 and four in New in Ontario Wineries—two from Lailey and two from Rosehall Run. - Five stars – four wines earned this highest ranking with two from Rosehall Run and two from Lailey.
- Rosehall Run Vineyards and Lailey Vineyards—are featured after the Main Release. You can order these wines for office or home delivery receiving them in time to really celebrate the July 1st weekend.
Main Release
Sparkling Wine
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-vintage
New Zealand $21.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol
This attractive pink-hued sparkler, fashioned from 20% hand-harvested Pinot Noir and 80% low-yielding Chardonnay, was fermented in the Charmat a.k.a. Cuve Close method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Featherstone Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2011
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (064592) 12.5% alcohol
Bursting with floral notes, kitchen spice and tropical fruit on the nose, it showers the palate with a textured wash brimming with flavour, mouth feel and sporting deft balance. Succulent white peach, ripe pear and melon persist throughout riding a spine of moderating citrus acidity on the juicy, tangy aftertaste. Pour with Alsatian onion tart. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Alexander Valley Vineyards ‘Redemption Zin’ Zinfandel 2007
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $22.95 (224147) 15.7% alcohol
Dry Creek has been a prime Zin appellation since 1870. This rockets off the crowd-pleasing scale with involved aromas, a gusher of fruit, hi octane and a monumental finish. Cherry/berry, sharp spice and raisiny notes dominate the nose before a tsunami wave washes over the palate—kirsch liqueur, raspberry jam and black plum preserve moderated by a stream of tangy acidity. It’s medium-full bodied, very generously textured and surprisingly balanced on the juicy tangy finish. If big, juicy, flavourful reds hit your sweet spot, don’t hesitate… pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Santa Julia ‘Magna’ 2009
Mendoza $14.95 (093799)13.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews in your favour—pick up a few for al fresco dining. The toasty cherry/berry nose introduces a juicy, nicely balanced stream of racy red currant, black cherry and tangy cranberry. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a juicy, dry aftertaste laden with cherry and black currant flavour. There’s perceptible tannin that becomes friendly after a two-hour decant or poured alongside a slab of red meat grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Kaesler ‘Stonehorse’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $20.95 (006551) 16.0% alcohol
Über hi-octane and loaded with sweet jammy fruit, it’s a crowd-pleasing, burly, fruit bomb not for the faint of heart. Aromas of mocha, ripe berry fruit and spice are followed by palate-coating, rich luscious flavours of mulberry, black currant and kirsch liqueur. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured throughout with a lavishly concentrated aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Zonte’s Footstep ‘Baron Von Nemesis’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (212936) 14.5% alcohol
Not overdone, some from Barossa are, and fairly priced. It delivers ripe sweet fruit—mulberry, bramble berry and tangy red cherry mingling with mocha and black pepper—sourced from old-vine Shiraz. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and lengthy balanced aftertaste layering on a lick of moderating lip-smacking acidity. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Ernie Els ‘The Big Easy – Red’ 2010
WO Western Cape $19.95 (220038) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and black pepper provide segue to a nicely balanced, fruit-filled wash of juicy Bing cherry, black licorice and briary berry on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with generous texture and a moderating stream of juicy, tangy red currant throughout. Primarily Shiraz-Cab, there are also a number of Rhône varieties. Lovely sipped on its own and a versatile food wine, it pairs well with grilled red meat, pasta in tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Monte Zovo ‘Sa’ Solin’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2009
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (650713) 14.5% alcohol
This Ripasso-styled red—often thought of as Amarone’s little brother—dishes up aromas of spice, savoury herbs and espresso roast. Sour cherry and tangy cranberry pervade the palate and crisp, dry aftertaste garnished with kirsch liqueur. It’s mid weight and nicely textured—courtesy the Ripasso method—sporting a racy, mid-length finish. Pair with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Kuehn ‘Grand Cru Florimont’ Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace Grand Cru, France $21.55 (260257) 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of exotic spice introduce a persistent off-dry stream of ripe fruit flavour moderated by a wonderful sweet and tang aftertaste. This is medium bodied with a generous mouth feel. Sweet pear, apple and spice mingle with lemony citrus on the palate while the mid-length finish layers on yellow plum and a refreshing dollop of key lime showcasing that magical yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian dishes like pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Mare Magnum ‘Pezoules’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Pelopponese, Greece $11.95 (274696) 13.5% alcohol
Serve this newly released Cab at your next group affair and you’ll be the local wine guru. It’s brimming with sweet, ripe, dark berry fruit interlaced with spice and black licorice. Medium bodied with a silky-smooth mouth feel, it dishes up a lengthy, sweet and fruity aftertaste. Sip on its own, or with grilled meat, spicy wings, ribs, roast chicken or pizza. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Lailey Vineyards are clearly a top-tier Ontario producer with a portfolio offering consistency, value and most importantly, great balance and lip-smacking flavour. Winemaker, Derek Barnett—a Winemaker of the Year recipient—and Lailey Vineyard co-owner dropped by with a case or so of wine partially reviewed in the recent June 9th winecurrent newsletter and the balance reviewed below. The tastings showcased some of the oldest vinifera vines in Canada along with Derek’s deft touch with this premium fruit. Located in the VQA sub-appellation of Niagara River, their winery and tasting room are conveniently located at 15940 Niagara River Parkway Boulevard in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered’ Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Niagara River $30.20 13.0% alcohol
Graphite, chicory and dark berry fruit provide segue to a rich, layered and complex river of black berry and juicy, succulent Bing cherry melding with spice and mocha on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good structure and balance showcasing a lingering aftertaste with good fruit, moderating acidity and a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring alongside grilled rack of lamb. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Niagara River $30.20 13.0% alcohol
There’s a boatload of fruit, excellent moderating acidity and lashings of tannin in this full-bodied gem; it’ll handsomely reward more years in bottle—purchase three, open in 2015, 2017, 2019. Dark berry fruit, toasty notes and sweet vanilla aromas intro this gorgeously structured Cab. A tidal wave of palate-coating cassis, succulent, ripe briary berry and racy, tangy red cherry interweave with mixed spice persisting through the lengthy finish. Purchase this outstanding red by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Ontario $15.20 12.0% alcohol
Fruit-laden aromas of ripe apple and pear introduce a fully textured mouthful of tangy green apple and racy lemon citrus interlaced with hints of pineapple. It’s medium full weight with a monumentally long, lip-smacking aftertaste of lemon pie filling and pit fruit. Great for deck or patio sipping, it also shines with pan-seared fish or seafood. Purchase this über gorgeous wine by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered - canadian oak’ Meritage 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.20 13.5% alcohol
Rose petals, berry fruit and savoury spice aromas open this juicy red blend—45% Merlot, 33% Cab Franc, 22% Cab Sauv. Racy red currant and mixed field berry interlace with mocha, toasty oak and kitchen spice on the palate. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste of red cherry and black raspberry framed by mouth-watering acidity while underpinned by chalky tannin. Pour in 2015 alongside a slab of grilled beefsteak. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This shows good balance and complexity and oodles of charm. Exotic spice, floral notes and red berry fruit on the nose, it bathes the palate in waves with red cherry and mixed, dark field berry mingling with nuances of beet root and spice. It’s mid weight with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a dry, lingering aftertaste showcasing good balance of fruit and acidity. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered’ Syrah 2010
VQA Niagara River $27.20 13.0% alcohol
Fans of Syrah from the northern Rhône will delight in this stylish beauty with its savoury aromas and juicy, tangy flavour profile. Aromas of savoury herbs and spice mingle with gamy notes and lilac on the expressive nose. Complex, racy flavours—red currant and red cherry—interlace with black plum and dark coffee bean on the palate persisting through the dry finish. Pour alongside grilled back ribs brushed with spicy bar b que sauce. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Syrah 2009
VQA Niagara River $27.20 13.0% alcohol
This dishes up a balanced, river of juicy red and black fruit interweaving with good tang bolstered by fine-grained tannin and oodles of charm. Black berry, red currant and cherry interlace with moderating acidity throughout the palate persisting through the lip-smacking, balanced aftertaste. Delicious on its own or poured alongside grilled rib eye. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘Select Late Harvest’ Vidal 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.20 375 mL 11.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas bustle from the glass with caramelized pineapple, mushroom and apple cider predominant. Palate-coating flavours—mango, yellow peach and spiced apple—dazzle the senses lingering through the monumental, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with a silky smooth generous mouth feel and a boatload of charm. Pour on its own as dessert or pair with fruit flan; absolutely delectable. Purchase this by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Winemaker and co-owner of Rosehall Run Vineyards, Dan Sullivan, dropped by with six wines to taste, and what a six-pack it turned out to be. They were all 100% Prince Edward County fruit and all absolutely charming and brimming with structure, balance, great taste and value. Remember when almost every county wine was bolstered by fruit outside the county and labeled VQA Ontario? These six wines did more than put Prince Edward County on the map for me, it put them on par with all VQA appellations—they’ve truly arrived. You need to try these Rosehall Run wines to see for yourself. They’re reviewed below in the order presented and tasted.
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Soft aromas of honeysuckle, ripe pear and spice provide segue for a gorgeously textured mouthful of deftly balanced, mouth-watering flavour with racy, lemon-drop candy, Bosc pear and yellow plum to the fore. It’s mid weight, fully textured with a lingering, mouth-watering, refreshing finish. Pour alongside veal scallopini. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 12.7% alcohol
This is a lovely example of well-made, delicious, unadorned Chardonnay. Not a splinter of oak and minimal malolactic conversion produced this lip-smacking Chard with alluring aromas of musky spice and baked apple. There’s a river of flavour—succulent white peach, apple and pear, and tangy lemon citrus—washing over the palate persisting through the crisp, clean, refreshing aftertaste. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 13.0% alcohol
Just now hitting its stride, this dazzles the olfactory with lifted aromas of apple-pie spice, toasty notes and lemongrass. Washing in balanced and mouth-watering waves, there’s an amalgam of flavours—ripe pear, yellow peach and green apple mingling with wisps of toasty oak and nutty notes. It finishes long and crisp with a lick of minerality and acidity. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 13.4% alcohol
Kudos to winemaker Dan Sullivan; this is a ripper, bolting from the glass with toasty oak, vanilla and citrus notes. Structured with good complexity, it dishes up a persistent stream of balanced and beautiful white peach, ripe pineapple and spice-infused apple flavour. The long, refreshing finish layers on nuances of slate and lemon pie filling. Drink now to 2017, think premium Meursault from Burgundy at a fraction the cost. Order this gem by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Spice, beetroot and raspberry on the nose, it washes over the palate with layered waves of sour cherry, ripe cranberry and lashings of ripe, sweet strawberry mingling with good moderating acidity. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste of cherry/berry interlaced with mineral/slate and mixed spice. Lovely on its own; divine with grilled rack of lamb, even better after 2012. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.8% alcohol
Low-yielding, older vines, minimalist winemaking—unfined, unfiltered—and the coming of age for Prince Edward County wine coalesce in this gorgeous Pinot. Lifted aromas of kitchen spice, black raspberry and rhubarb herald a well-structured wash of flavour—red currant, red cherry and mineral-streaked black plum—showcasing complexity and oodles of charm. Finishing in a blaze of tang and juicy, ripe fruit underpinned by wisps of toasty oak and ripe, fine-grained tannin—drink now to 2017—it was tough to spit. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
Trevor Jones ‘Virgin’ Chardonnay 2011
Australia $17.95 13.5% alcohol
Citrus, tropical fruit and peach on the nose, it washes over the palate in textured waves—pit fruit, ripe pear and pineapple. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it dishes up a nicely balanced, refreshing Chardonnay with a delightfully fruity, refreshing aftertaste. It’s versatile at the table, pouring well with skillet-fried chicken, roast pork or veal medallions. Order by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..(Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic