August 6th, 2005 release
California: white wine
McManis Family Viognier 2003
California $19.95 (658112)
This is one beautiful Viognier. It has stunningly fresh and elegant aromas of flowers, peach and apricot that flow seamlessly through to the palate. With a gorgeous texture, good medium weight, and a spine of finely-balanced acidity, it's a delight to drink, and makes a lovely partner to lightly-herbed, apricot-stuffed pork tenderloin. (RP)
Stonehedge Chardonnay 2001
California $12.95 (544841)
This is labelled "barrel-fermented," which often means that the oak notes are subtle and nuanced. It all depends on the aging, too, of course. This is a lovely, well-made Chardonnay, but it's in a fuller oaked style, with butter, toasty flavours along with tropical fruit, pears? you know the style. If that's your Chardonnay, this is for you. Pair it with richly-herbed roast chicken or planked, grilled salmon. (RP)
California: red wine
Stonehedge Merlot 2001
California $12.95 (657577)
A perfumed nose of lilacs and dried currants form the perfect segue to this beautifully balanced red that has 3 to 5 years of enjoyment remaining. Medium-bodied, it provides good grip (tannins) plus fruit forward flavours of cranberries and Montmorency (sour) cherries. The finish is luxurious (dark berry fruit) and lengthy. Stock up for drinking now with grilled red meats and for future cold winter months. (VH)
McManis Family Syrah 2003
California $19.95 (658104)
With a Viognier and a Syrah in this release, McManis stakes its position as a Rhône Ranger. This is a rich, ripe, complex Syrah, with great, typical cherry flavours accented with herbs and spicy notes-including pepper, of course. The texture is fleshy and the acid will carry this far as a food wine. Pair it up with well-herbed grilled lamb. (RP)
Stonehedge Merlot 2001
California $12.95 (657577)
What's the point of telling you what the Vintages catalog already tells you? Still, it points this Merlot out as an "exceptional value," and you gotta agree with them. This is great value for your wine bucks. You have rich, ripe fruit, you have good complexity (none of this uninteresting fruit-only Merlot), you have generous texture, and you have all this for $12.95. It's a versatile wine and pairs with pizza, burgers, and steak. (RP)
Australia: white wine
Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $31.95 (331306)
The gorgeous nose provides enticing aromatics of almonds, vanilla and spice. It delivers a rich full-bodied Burgundy-styled Chardonnay (creamy texture, prominent fruit) that delivers full-bore green apples and citrus on the palate with more of the same on the long finish. There is wonderful balance as the fresh crispness provides a lovely foil to the supple texture. This would pair well with butter-drizzled lobster now to 2010. We both loved it! (VH)
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2004
Western Australia $21.95 (458885)
A beautiful wine from a producer that keeps on doing it right. This is a rich white with classic Sauvignon Blanc character that's reminiscent of the best from Marlborough. The fruit is full-on and intense, with peach, tropical fruit and lime dominant, and notes of passionfruit, herbs and caramel. For all the fruit-richness, it's tightly-wound and has a full, soft texture. Drink this within a year to capture the freshness (why isn't it under screwcap?) and pair it with briny seafood. (RP)
Australia: red wine
d'Arenberg "The Stump Jump" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $12.95 (6062360
Mint, raspberries and hints of black licorice set the stage for this Aussie red. The palate is mellow, plush and wrapped around a sweet core of red berry fruit with a nice splash of dryness. It really puts on a show with an involved and complex (tar, mocha and cherries) finish. Buy in multiples for the months ahead. Match with pasta and a tomato-based meat sauce over the next 3 years. A winecurrent outstanding value pick. (VH)
Higher Plane Pinot Noir 2003
Margaret River $21.95 (595348)
Another stunner from Western Australia, home of the most consistently well-made wines. The name invites the obvious comment, and they really have moved to it with this wine. It's a perfect combination of fruit and acidity, with lovely, lingering flavours of cherry and mulberry with spicy and earthy notes. It's a natural for medium-rare lamb. (RP)
Thorn-Clarke "Terra Barossa" Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.95 (595306)
Ripe Bing cherry and spicy oak aromas waft from this medium to full bodied red. It has very good grip from perceptible tannins and oodles of concentrated brambly berry fruit flavours. This is extremely well balanced and structured with nothing amiss, no rough edges and from the famous terra rossa soil of the Barossa. The finish is lengthy and surprisingly mellow, given the 14.5% alcohol. Pepper encrusted grilled rack of lamb would marry well from now to 2009. (VH)
Chile: white wine
William Cole "Mirador Selection" Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Casablanca Valley $11.95 (991299)
Another lovely racy, zingy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, except it's from Chile. Winemaker, Paula Cárdenas Sáez, has fashioned a delicious wine that has forward aromas of citrus that carries through to the palate. There is enough weight and fruit (passion fruit and melon) plus a balanced dry finish to make this a wise purchase. Great on its own or serve with breaded then grilled calamari. Is at its drinking best now. (VH)
Chile: rosé wine
Errazuriz Estate Shiraz Rosé 2004
Central Valley $11.95 (655233)
Elegant, fresh fruit (raspberry, strawberry, dark plum) aromas and flavours, with spice and pepper notes that burst from this lovely rosé. It's dry and stylish, and has the heft to go with a steak salad at lunch or steak frites for dinner on the patio in these warm days. (RP)
Chile: red wine
Viña Montgras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2003
Colchagua Valley $13.95 (432971)
A muted nose of red berries and spice forms the entré to this medium- to full-bodied red. Expect grainy tannins that will soften over the next 2 or 3 years. Good fruit (black cherries and plums) and a hint of bell pepper. It finishes well balanced and pleasantly fruity. Drink now to 2010 with a spicy dish like pasta puttanesca. (VH)
William Cole "Albamar" Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (595298)
A very well-made Cab with bright fruit aromas and flavours (plum, cherry) accented with spices and herbs. It has a rich, tangy texture with quite firm tannins, and it goes well with straightforward grilled red meat. (RP)
William Cole Vineyards "Albamar" Reserve Merlot 2003
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (928309)
Cherry compote and smoky nuances waft from the glass of this very mellow and plush Merlot. It is dry on the palate and finish, but has enough flavour (plum and raspberry) to carry the day. You can easily drink it now, but it's also a candidate for short term cellaring. Try paired with roast chicken brined in soy, star anise, garlic and ginger. (VH)
Viña La Rosa "La Capitana" Merlot 2003
Cachapoal Valley $14.95 (655209)
You'd better hurry if you want some of this. It's the "Wine of the Month," and with this quality at that price, it will sell quickly. It's an astonishing Merlot, with rich, tarry, smoky fruit, poised balance, and elegant style. There's the slightest hint of oak. Drink it now and over the next three years, and pair it with full-flavoured grilled red meat dishes. (RP)
New Zealand: white wine
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $13.95 (963124)
This is big on the Wow! factor with a lifted nose of gooseberries and nettles plus a huge flavour profile of herbaceous and citrussy notes underpinned by passionfruit and melon. Wisely sealed by screw cap, it will remain exactly this way for some time. There is a spine of complementary dryness on the finish making this a prime candidate for all manner of grilled sea food. Tremendous value. (VH)
New Zealand: red wine
Southbank Estate "The Terraces" Merlot-Cabernet 2002
Hawkes Bay $24.95 (586073)
A delightfully complex and gutsy Merlot. Look for toasty dark fruit (cherry, plum, cassis) with notes of spice, tobacco and smoke. It has good tannic grip, a long finish and a satisfying, generous texture. It cries out for grilled lamb. (RP)
Shepherds Ridge Pinot Noir 2002
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (586099)
A 'new world' styled Pinot with lots of "old world" beguiling charm. The fruit driven nose of brambly berries and smoky nuances jump from the glass. Spicy currants and dried cranberries provide the flavour profile while the tannin and concentration add interest and complexity. The finish is well balanced and luxurious with good cherry flavour. The price to quality ratio is tipped in your favour with this Gold medal winner. Can't wait to try with smoked duck breast on a bed of greens with a mango sauce. (VH)
South Africa: red wine
Glen Carlou "Tortoise Hill" Red 2003
WO Paarl $12.95 (652594)
The iconic owner and respected winemaker, David Finlayson, illustrates how he earned his stripes - making delicious wine. This Cabernet Sauvignon predominant blend (50%) also includes 20% Zinfandel, and equal parts, 10% each, of Touriga Nacional, Shiraz and Merlot. It adds up to a crowd pleaser that shows spicy red berries on the nose, good fruit flavour (cranberry and cherry) in the mouth plus good weight and complexity from ripe tannins. It displays pleasing and refreshing dryness plus an uncomplicated fruity finish. Nothing to get mad at and heaps to be said for the tremendous value. Stock up. (VH)
Etienne Le Riche "Leef Op Hoop" Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (652644)
A real cracker-jack of a wine for this price. It's an amazingly complex Cabernet with fruit that's rich and ripe without crossing into jammy territory. It's full bodied without being overpowering, and it has good tannins. And think of this: it's already five years old, so it's pre-cellared, although you can put it away for another three or four years if you want to. A big wine for big, but complex, food. (RP)
Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
WO Robertson $15.95 (652610)
A very well made Cabernet with medium weight, good fruit character and complexity. The restrained style is very attractive and verges on elegant. This is a wine for food with good flavour complexity, like herbed lamb and grilled root vegetables. (RP)
Argentina: Malbec
Bodegas Catena Zapata "Alamos" Malbec 2004
Mendoza $13.95 (467951)
A muted nose of spicy cassis is no preparation for the upcoming fruit bomb. There is an explosion of berries and spice once the wine touches the palate and it just doesn't quit. One might not use the term elegant, but bang for your buck is appropriate as this fruit-forward red has good weight, lovely balance and enough tannin to pop open your eyes. This is a ripper that will marry to any grilled rare red meat imaginable from today to 2008. A multiple buy will have you smiling now, and again on cold winter nights. (VH)
Catena Malbec 2002
Mendoza $19.95 (487727)
How can you not love this? Here you have a stylish, New World Malbec that is deftly-crafted to bring the oak into near-perfect harmony with the lovely fruit. It's richly-flavoured without being too forward, and achieves a seamless rapport between fruit and acid. Just beautiful. I tasted it twice, just to make sure. Pair it up with grilled beef, as they would where it came from. (RP)
Bodega Valentin Bianchi Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2002
San Rafael, Mendoza $15.95 (677559)
This quality Malbec is from one of the most respected houses in Argentina. Black licorice, leather and sweet cherry aromatics emanate from the hugely concentrated inky nectar. Ripe, black cherries and spicy currants are underpinned by firm, but ripe tannins and all this follows in the rich and lengthy finish. The San Rafael appellation is elevated and relatively cool. This provides structure and saves the wine from becoming at all jammy. We both agree, a top winemaking effort to be savoured now and until 2010. (VH)
Septima Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Mendoza $10.95 (604678)
Big, fruity, full bodied, and with a mouth-filling texture. This is the sort of wine at this price that gives Australia a run for its money. It doesn't have as much complexity as the other Malbecs on show today, but for $10.95 this is excellent value. If you're having friends over for a barbecue, you can buy lots of this and impress them all to hell. It's great with steak, ribs, and burgers. (RP)
France: white wine
Vignoble d'Ammerschwihr Joseph and Christian Binner Riesling 2001
AOC Alsace $18.95 (982108)
The tantalizing nose of spice and floral notes opens up into a flavourful white that is predominantly poached pear and golden delicious apples in the mouth. It is a medium bodied, deeply golden wine that offers a deliciously tangy finish that belies its dry rating. It is well balanced and would make a willing partner to any dish offering caramelized onions, in or around it. Drink now until 2015. After 2010 those desirable (to some) petrol aromatics will begin to show. (VH)
Trimbach Gewürztraminer 2002
AOC Alsace $23.95 (958462)
Just a classic Gewürztraminer from one of Alsace's best-known producers. It has everything you look for in the varietal-rich aromatic fruit, spicy notes, warmth, that quiet bitter click at the end. This pairs beautifully with Thai or spicy seafood dishes. (RP)
Charton et Trébuchet 2002
AOC Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy $28.95 (925099)
Brioche, apple pie and spicy aromatics set the stage for this beautifully structured white. It provides green apple, cinnamon and melon flavours that are framed by a bone dry finish. This perennially elegant offering would reward patient cellaring and could be drunk now until 2010. Try with all forms of fowl stuffed with fruit-based dressing. (VH)
La Cave Les Costières de Pomerol Picpoul de Pinet 2004
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $11.95 (350124)
There are many theories about the name of the Picpoul variety, including the idea that hens (poules) used to roam the vineyards. I suspect that the only thing this wine has to do with poultry is that it pairs quite well with lemon chicken. It's a fairly simple white, with apple and citrus flavours, good crisp acidity, and nice balance. Give it a go, and expand your wine repertoire. (RP)
Cave de Vignerons de Frontignan Muscat Sec "Terres Blanches" 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.95 (653188)
Distinctive rosewater aromas with nectarine and orange nuances are quite evident on the lifted nose. This light to medium bodied dry white will appeal to those who seek out a lighter styled sipper that does not blast from the glass or overpower with strong flavours or acidity. It's pleasantly fruity with enough balance and flavour to keep it from being boring. Serve chilled on the deck on its own or with light hors d'oeuvres. (VH)
France: rosé wine
Domaine du Grand Cros Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes de Provence $12.95 (748822)
A big, flavourful, dry rosé that's quite complex. Look for bright berries and plum flavours with notes of mineral and citrus. It's versatile with food, and you can pair it with grilled seafood or with a spicy grilled beef salad. (RP)
France: red wine
Château Prieuré Borde Rouge "Signature" 2001
AOC Corbières $19.95 (594812)
This relatively obscure region of the Languedoc is known for wine, honey and cheese and you might want to (should?) get better acquainted via this Bordeaux-like offering. A blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, the muted nose offers coffee and fresh red berries. There are dry concentrated flavours of crushed cranberries and spiced cherries that follow through to the silky finish. It offers good weight, ripe tannins and value. Drink now until 2009 with grilled and peppered rognon de veau. (VH)
Xavier Vignon Red 2001
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $15.95 (680553)
A great big, flavourful red with concentrated dark fruit and lashings of peppery spice. We loved this one, and when we saw the price... It's a blend of four southern French grapes and shows what great value comes out of the region. Food? You want food, too? You need a really flavourful, spicy and big dish for this. How about lamb with garlic, rosemary and lavender? (RP)
Domaine du Père Pape "Clos du Calvaire" 2001
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $35.95 (728139)
A big wine from a small plot of closely planted vines; so close, they must be worked by hand and it shows in this meticulously-fashioned red. An involved nose of leather, tar and brambly berries is followed by cassis and raspberry flavours. There is poetic symmetry here between the grippy tannins, a bone dry finish and full bore fruit as they play off each other right through to the finish. A cellar dweller from a great vintage that can be safely uncorked 2008 - 2015. (VH)
Gabriel Meffre Rasteau "Laurus" 2001
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $19.95 (652222)
Rasteau is one of the villages given permission to use the name on the label as a sign of quality. A lifted nose of tar, spice and toast with some ripe cherry notes greet the taster. Grainy tannins, sour cherries and cranberries provide a lovely structured flavour profile whilst the finish is lengthy, dry and redolent of cassis and black fruit. If you drink now, pair with rare grilled strip loin. If you wait from 2008 to 2012, the softer tannins will allow you to enjoy on its own or paired with Osso Bucco or veal shanks. (VH)
German: white wine
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $23.95 (566778)
Mineral and petrol aromatics waft from this outstanding off-dry white. The slight sweetness is from ripe fruit, not from any added sugar. It is a lighter version of a Canadian 'Late Harvest'. There is slight spritz on the tongue as the flavours (citrus, green apple and white peach) explode on the palate. It finishes zesty and clean with a sweet and sour tang that begs for spicy Asian and curried foods. Drink now until 2015. (VH)
Lucashof Forster Bischofsgarten Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP Pfalz $15.95 (681007)
From a small holding, only 14 ha, with only 10% of that reserved for non dry white, this wine is pretty special. The restrained nose has floral and Green Gage plum aromas whilst the powerful flavours consist of lemon/lime and mango. This has a zesty component that sets off the light sweetness on the finish to provide a clean wrap up to a delicious offering. Drink now and over the next 4 years. (VH)
Italy: white wine
Cantina Sociale Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino Di Sardegna 2004
DOC Sardinia $13.95 (709782)
An inviting nose of mineral, pit fruit and red licorice leads one into a spritzy, zippy medium bodied quaffing white. This has lots of citrus going on that would suggest it would pair well with grilled fish such as salmon or pickerel. Very well priced. (VH)
Italy: red wine
Rocca delle Macie "Rubizzo" 2002
IGT Toscana $14.95 (913780)
Mostly Sangiovese with a dash of Merlot, this great value wine offers rich fruit (plum, cherry, blackberry) with spicy, tarry and smoky accents. It has quite gripping tannins, good balance and a nice finish, and pairs well with full-flavoured grilled red meats and game. (RP)
Antinori Tignanello 2001
IGT Toscana $89.95 (986786)
This is the initial "Super Tuscan", first produced in 1970. It was one the first wines in Chianti to age Sangiovese in barriques, to not include any white grapes and to blend with Cabernet Sauvignon. It is now 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. This 'Tig" is tannic, full bodied, full of cassis and rich concentrated black cherry flavours. The finish is long and a blockbuster. Put away and drink 2010 - 2015. Uncharacteristically, not well priced as US/UK retailers offer better value. (VH)
Spain: red wine
Mahler-Besse "Taja" Reserva 2000
DO Jumilla $12.95 (243329)
This is showing its age by the 'bricky' rim. An involved nose of leather, mint and blackberry is the segue to this medium to full bodied red. Lots of tarry dried fruit (cherry, currant) characteristics that follow through on the lengthy, luxurious and lovely finish. This has a solid core of ripe fruit wrapped in ripe tannins and balancing acidity. If not from this obscure region in south east Spain, with its hot summers, cold winters and arid conditions, it would be double the price. Worth a multiple buy. (VH)
Viña Heredad Rosada 2004
DO Penedès $11.95 (680918)
Not the last rosé of summer, but certainly of this release. It looks and tastes a tad gutsier than your garden variety rosé. The lifted nose of cherries and raspberries open a floodgate of flavours that are intensely fruity (strawberries, red plums) and the weight, surprisingly and pleasantly, provides a touch of grip and structure. Serve chilled and drink as a dry aperitif with wine-loving friends (no wimpy wine, this) or pair with pizza. (VH)
Upstream in Vintages
Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases
September 2005
Ironstone Reserve Old Vines Zinfandel 2003
Lodi, California $34.95
An "In-Store Discovery" this month, and there's not a lot of it about. But if you find some, you're in for a real treat. Made from vines planted in 1909 (these qualify as "old") this Zin has classic dry-straw and jammy dark fruit and crushed berry aromas that give way to a rich, fruit-forward mouthful of intense fruit with spice and pepper sitting not too far to the rear. Just lovely, and a great partner for rich game meats. (RP)
November 2005
Angove's Premium Port 1997
Riverland, South Australia $16.95
Australia produces some very elegant fortified wines in the Port style, and this is one. It's made exclusively from Shiraz and has beautifully complex fruit, fresh and dried, with notes of Christmas cake spice. The texture is luscious and the tannins are soft. It throws a crust, so it's best decanted before serving. (RP)
February 2006
Leaping Horse Merlot 2002
Lodi, California $12.95
A blend of Merlot (76%), Cabernet Franc (22%) and the Portuguese variety, Souzao (2%). This is one of those big, fruity, but nervy Merlot blends that remind me of Carmenère. Look for concentrated dark fruit (Damson plum, blackberry, black cherry), with spicy, savoury notes It's very nicely balanced and is a real bargain at this price. When it's released, open it when you're having a spicy beef dish. (RP)
New in the LCBO
British Columbia
Mission Hill "Five Vineyards" Pinot Grigio 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $13.95 (563981)
This is a very well-made Pinot Grigio is a New World Style. It's medium weight with quite intense but restrained peach and apricot stone flavours, balanced with good acidity. Serve it with spicy chicken dishes. (RP
France
Pierre Sparr "Alsace One" 2003
AOC Alsace $13.95 (649830)
Pierre Sparr has blended all Alsace's authorized white grape varieties and has come up with a sum that's greater than its parts. Look for beautiful fruit, ranging from the apricot to the citrus zones, with mineral notes and a crisp texture. It has the fruit and stuffing to go well with spicy seafood, pork and chicken dishes. (RP)
New in Ontario Wineries
Note that these wines are available only from winery retail stores or by direct order. They are not available in the LCBO. To order these wines on-line, use the links at www.winecurrent.com
Frogpond Farm Barrel-Aged Riesling 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12/500ml bottle
Frogpond is Niagara's only wholly organic winery. This Riesling, from the excellent 2001 vintage, was aged in large, old oval barrels that give complexity without any wood flavours. The wine gives off lemony zest aromas that give way to lemon and white grapefruit flavours and lively acidity. A very good wine for seafood that's had a squeeze of lemon. (RP)
Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Unoaked Chardonnay 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95
A rich, full-fruit Chardonnay that shows what you can do without oak. This is from a cool year in Niagara, but there are quite luscious tropical and sweet pear flavours, good complexity, and a long finish. Pair it with grilled salmon. (RP)
Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Semi-Dry Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95
This Riesling has a dosage of 1999 icewine to give the flavours a lift. It comes through with rich lemon and mineral flavours that are sublimely balanced against the Riesling acidity. Quite an impressive wine. (RP)
Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95
2001 was an excellent year in Niagara and this big (15.5% alcohol) Cabernet Sauvignon is still tightly-wound with big tannins. With plenty of complex dark fruit, it will hang in for another five years before it's ready to drink. (RP)
Palatine Estates Cabernet Franc 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15
There's a lot of fruit (plum, raspberry, crushed berries) in this Cab Franc, and none of the green pepper notes it often gives up. The texture is soft, with quite up-front tannins, and the balance is good. Drink it now with medium-rare grilled lamb, or hold for another three or four years. (RP)
Cheers!
Vic and Rod