May 26, 2012 Vintages Release
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:- Exceptional value wines – three wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’, one in the +90 Feature; one in the Portugal Feature and one under Red Wine: Italy - Vic’s Picks – Urraca Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 @ $19.95; Malivoire Pinot Gris 2010 @ $19.95; Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage @ $22.95 under new in the LCBO Portfolio and Pelassa ‘San Vito’ Roero Arneis 2011 @ $21.35 under Consignment Wine.
- Finding Waldo – if you followed the South Africa trip, you may have been intrigued by the über-hot—both temperature and popularity—Swartland appellation. There’s a red blend in this release from poster-boy winemaker, Eben Sadie, you might want to try given all the press and excitement.
+90 Point Wines Feature
Cave Spring ‘CSV Cave Spring Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (566026) 11.5% alcohol
Mineral and citrus on the nose, there’s a gusher of palate-coating flavour with lemon zest, pineapple, ripe juicy pear and spice-laden apple to the fore. It’s beautifully balanced, off dry and lip-smacking delicious. It finishes lengthy and in a blaze of sweet and tang flavour—lemon-lime, minerality and juicy yellow peach. Lovely sipped as an aperitif, it pours well with spicy Asian cuisine, as well. (Vic Harradine)
Closson Chase ‘K.J. Watson Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $34.95 (230912) 13.9% alcohol
Wow, this is balanced and beautiful with wonderful structure and a monumental finish. Crisp, racy green apple and toasty notes on the nose, it coats the palate with waves of succulent white nectarine, honeyed apple and wisps of toasty oak, It’s mid weight with lovely texture and lengthy luxurious aftertaste showcasing orchard fruit, apple pie spice, tangy citrus and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol
A superb Pinot punching well above the price—amongst the best tasted from Niagara’s stellar ’07 vintage; it’s rich, succulent and perfectly balanced. Opening with a perfumed nose of spice box, graphite and mocha, it bathes the palate with persistent cranberry tart, ripe Bing cherry and spice-laden sour cherry with hints of deftly integrated oak. It’s mid weight with very good mouth feel and a balanced, lip-smacking tangy finish; it doesn’t get much better than this. (Vic Harradine)
Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $29.95 (232371) 14.6% alcohol
Opaque, complex and intense, the aromas of rich, ripe, dark fruit, earth, smoky cedar and a hint of mint captivate. Dry and full bodied this is a suave, supple yet structured wine displaying a gorgeous balance of ripe tannins, fine acidity and concentrated rich dark berry and plum fruit. Powerful, warm and persistent on the finish, it’s designed for long-term cellaring, you can also enjoy the wine now with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)
Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay 2009
Edna Valley $25.95 (017988) 13.4% alcohol
This has a lifted nose of exotic, spice-infused, pit fruit and wood smoke. It bathes the palate with crisp green apple, ripe, yellow peach and spiced yellow plum. Medium-full bodied with silky smooth texture and a charming finale that interlaces charred toast, nutty nuances, good mouth-watering acidity and luscious pit fruit. Pour with smoked turkey breast. (Vic Harradine)
Ridge ‘Monte Bello’ 2009
Santa Cruz Mountains $145.95 (711085) 13.5% alcohol
If you cast in über-expensive waters, here’s the catch of the day. Black liquorice, aromatic bitters and myriad black fruit aromas fill the air—black berry, currant, plum and cherry. It’s quite stylish, medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a solid underpinning of still-resolving tannin. An astonishing array of flavours caress the palate with spice, briary berry, black currant interwoven with earthy tones, cassis and kirsch liqueur. It finishes with a lengthy fruit-laden aftertaste ably moderated by lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2017 to 2025.
Rubicon Estate ‘Cask’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Rutherford, Napa Valley $74.95 (029553) 14.8% alcohol
Rich, ripe fruit-filled aromas—black currant, Bing cherry and blueberry waft easily from this well-paced, perfectly balanced Napa Cab. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and endless, softly textured waves of pure flavour that persist through the balanced, beautiful finish—black currant, black raspberry, mocha and spice-infused black plum. The tannin is ripe and the finish lengthy. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Columbia Valley $24.95 (280107) 14.2% alcohol
The irrepressible Charles Smith hits all the right chords with this balanced and harmonious symphony of aromas and flavours. On the nose there’s an outpouring of gamy notes, exotic spice and berry fruit. Waves of softly textured, nicely balanced flavour bathe the palate with black currant, minty cherry and spiced black plum to the fore. It’s mid weight with a lengthy finish that’s fruit-filled and wreathed in mouth-wateringly good acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Urraca Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Agrelo, Mendoza $19.95 (271080) 14.8% alcohol
Striking aromas of charry wood smoke, gamy meat and dark berry fruit provide the opening for a rich, succulent tidal wave of balanced, complex, dark chocolate, juicy black cherry and spice-laden, black currant flavour. It’s full bodied and fully textured, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin and sporting a smooth and mellow, fruit-filled, long finish moderated by lip-smacking acidity. With each sip better than the last, this is special, pick up a couple. (Vic Harradine)
Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia $20.95 (903617) 12.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of apple pie spice and toasty notes provide entrée for this citrus-laden wine from one of Australia’s top Chardonnay regions. Crisp Granny Smith apple, tangy lemon sherbet and racy white grapefruit dominate the flavours on the palate and finish. It’s mid weight layering on hazelnut and toast on the aftertaste. Pair with freshly shucked Malpeque oysters or grilled calamari drizzled with fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Small Gully ‘The Formula Robert’s’ Shiraz 2006
South Australia $17.95 (142935) 15.9% alcohol
Opening with a lifted, rich nose of bramble berry, tar and spice with nuances of espresso roast, this full-bodied, fully flavoured beauty coats the palate with black raspberry, sweet mulberry and ripe juicy Bing cherry. It’s mid weight and generously textured sporting a fruity and balanced, lengthy aftertaste replaying the fruit adorned with hints of mocha and spice. (Vic Harradine)
Sequillo Cellars Red 2009
WO Swartland $29.95 (277996) 14.5% alcohol
This unfined, unfiltered, red blend—Syrah, Mourvédre, Grénache, Carignan and Cinsault—was crafted by Swartland’s poster-boy, iconic winemaker, Eben Sadie (ee-ben saw-dee). Gamy, spice-laden, red berry aromas infuse the lifted nose. It’s medium bodied, smooth, round and mellow in texture, delivering a complex stream of flavour with mineral tones, red cherry and spice-laden black plum. The lively, fresh finish lingers with excellent, lip-smacking acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chenevières ‘Fourchaume’ Chablis 1er Cru 2009
AOC Burgundy $29.95 (277921) 13.0% alcohol
This is textbook Chablis at a fair price offering up aromas of mineral and green apple mingling with spice and floral notes. The palate’s treated to a linear, focused stream of racy citrus wreathed in hints of spice, yellow plum and plenty of nerve and verve throughout. Pour with fresh oysters on the half shell dotted with Tabasco and a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
C.H. Berres ‘Ürziger Würzgarten’ Riesling Kabinett 2008
Prädikatswein, Mosel $19.95 (207274) 8.5% alcohol
Off-dry with plenty of sweet and tang flavours that pour and pair so well with spicy Asian dishes, this sports a fabulous nose of piquant spice, mineral tones and pit fruit. Flavours of sweet tropical fruit—mango and pineapple—meld beautifully with racy lemon citrus on the palate. It’s light-medium weight with nice texture and brisk finish of lime sherbet. (Vic Harradine)
Antinori ‘Pian Delle Vigne’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $59.95 (651141) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and pure, this showcases complexity, structure, deft balance and, most importantly, succulent fruit flavour. Black liquorice, tobacco and dark berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a rich, luxurious stream of black currant, bramble berry pie, espresso roast and anise. Medium bodied with excellent mouth feel, the flavours replay on the lingering aftertaste underpinned by soft, ripe tannin, framed by mouth-watering tang. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
Coto De Imaz ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (976811) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, floral notes and dried currant herald a tangy, racy river of red currant, sour cherry and spice-laden, black plum interwoven with savoury herbs and mocha on the palate and aftertaste. A mature Rioja with charm and finesse that’s best consumed over the next three or four years. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal Feature
Monte Vilar ‘Reserva’ 2008
Vinho Regional Alentejano $15.95 (276105) 14.0% alcohol
This is a ripper, flying under the radar—sourced from indigenous grapes in a premiere appellation sporting boatloads of flavour and a memorable, balanced aftertaste. Enjoy roasted herbs and gamy notes mingling with dark coffee on the nose before spilling over the palate in flavour-laden waves with dark berry fruit, spice-laden plum and bittersweet chocolate to the fore. Medium weight, generous texture and a lengthy, balanced finish showcasing dark succulent fruit and lip-smacking tang tie a bow on this wonderful package. (Vic Harradine)
Cabriz ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOC Dão $15.95 (021410) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral, toast and truffles provide segue for a deftly balanced river of tangy, rich black plum compote, racy sour cherry and mixed, field-berry fruit. Good weight and a silky smooth mouth feel herald the dry, warm aftertaste underpinned by grainy tannin and good, mouth-watering acidity. Aerate/decant two hours and pair with cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Cunha Martins ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOC Dão $14.95 (276188) 13.0% alcohol
Rich, dark berry fruit aromas interweave with kitchen spice and cedar on the nose. This is light on its feet with racy red cherry, red currant and spiced plum predominant. The finish is mid-length and dry sporting a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours serving alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Quinta Do Infantado Red 2009
DOC Douro $21.95 (095158) 14.0% alcohol
Lip-smacking and laden with rich, pure fruit, this opens with a lifted nose of black currant, black cherry and mixed spice and herbs. Well paced and brimming with good acidity—sour cherry, strawberry and cranberry—it brings it off on the lengthy finish with lashings of riper, darker fruit and spice. Mid weight, nicely textured and well paced, there are perceptible tannins on the aftertaste. Tuck away for a couple of years or aerate/decant for three hours pouring with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Quinta De Ventozelo LBV Port 2007
DOC Douro $18.95 (274688) 20.0% alcohol
This is hi-toned LBV for a paltry price—sweet music to a Port-lover’s ears. Figs, raisins and spiced dark berry fruit on the nose, this coats the palate with a teeth-staining wash of sweet, ripe black currant and luscious ripe mulberry interwoven with tobacco and black liquorice. It’s fully flavoured and fully textured dishing up great value, a memorable finish and oodles of charm. Pour with aged, hard cheese or chocolate dessert. (Vic Harradine)
Adega ‘Deu La Deu’ Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2010
DOC, Monção de Melgaço $19.95 (040642) 13.0% alcohol
Wow, this jumps from the glass with myriad aromas and oodles of flavour and a crisp refreshing aftertaste; how good is that? Highly alluring, perfumed aromas of tropical fruit, peach, tea and floral notes open this mid-weight, smooth-as-silk beauty. It washes over the palate with lemon citrus and mineral/slate entwined with orchard fruit and nuances of honeysuckle. The crisp, refreshing finish showers mouth-watering acidity mingling with ripe pit fruit. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Ontario: White Wine
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of honeyed citrus, peach and minerality presage a rich luscious surge of flavour with lime sherbet, pineapple and hints of mint predominant. Medium bodied with a creamy smooth mouth feel, it sports a lengthy, well-balanced aftertaste of lip-smacking tangy grapefruit with a dollop of ripe melon with hints of licorice. This is a fabulous Gris with balance and grace—a treat on its own and paired well with roast pork or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma Coast $74.95 (251223) 14.1% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger interweave with slate, tropical fruit and toast. This is an elegant Sonoma Chardonnay with good weight and texture and great carpentry with a seriously good spine of acidity. Apple, mango and a salad bowl of tropical fruit wash persistently over the palate and through the lingering aftertaste where they’re joined by racy, lip-smacking, lemon-lime. (Vic Harradine)
Liberty School Chardonnay 2009
Central Coast $18.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe apple and pit fruit mingle with nutty notes on the expressive nose. It’s medium-bodied with generous mouth feel and swimming with flavour—lemon chiffon pie, Granny Smith apple and succulent white peach. It’s creamy smooth with a balanced, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. (Vic harradine
Robert Mondavi ‘To Kalon Estate Reserve’ Fumé Blanc 2009
Napa Valley $44.95 (147488) 14.5% alcohol
Grassy, citrus and anise on the nose, this is well balanced, complex and chockfull of racy, tangy flavour. Lively, laser-like streams of lemon tang, pea pod and grapefruit mingle with softer floral notes and nectarine. It’s mid weight with a very generous mouth feel and a boatload of charm along with great versatility at the table; pour with sea food, pasta in cream sauce or white pizza. It finishes in a mouth-watering, thirst quenching blaze of citrus tang. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Belle Glos ‘Meiomi’ Pinot Noir 2010
Monterey/Santa Barbara/Sonoma Counties $24.95 (130138) 13.8% alcohol
Here’s a bistro-styled Pinot that’s ultra food friendly and just loaded with ripe, jammy fruit. Aromas of strawberry, briary berry and sweet vanilla abound while a gusher of fruit-laden, generously textured flavour coats the palate infusing the lengthy aftertaste—cherry clafoutie, kirsch liqueur and sweet milk chocolate. Poured well alongside grilled meat with attitude – spicy, smoked ribs or slow-roasted pork with hot bbq sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Folie à Deux Zinfandel 2008
Amador County $24.95 (147231) 14.5% alcohol
Dark, ripe berry fruit, mixed spice and dark chocolate on the nose, it coats the palate with medium weight, nicely textured gobs of black raspberry jam and black plum compote interlaced with ripe juicy Bing cherry and wisps of toasty oak. Fruit forward and laced with dark, ripe fruit, it’s the perfect partner with chocolate desserts or aged, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
California: Rosé Wine
Liberty School Rosé 2011
California $16.95 (276667) 13.5% alcohol
A pretty salmon hue in the glass, it sports strawberry and spice on the nose interlaced with red cherry. Balanced and refreshing throughout, it’s fruit filled and full of charm. Mixed field berry compote and tangy briary berry meld nicely with good moderating acidity on the palate and dry, tangy finish. Pour alongside white pizza adorned with chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Bodega Monteviejo ‘Lindaflor’ Malbec 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza $39.95 (109322) 15.5% alcohol
My highest compliment, it was tough to spit. Espresso roast, aromatic bitters and dark berry fruit aromas swirl from this deftly balanced, structured, alluring Malbec. Ripe fruit-laden, spice-infused flavours coat the palate in endless waves with dark briary berry and oodles of juicy, tangy, black Bing cherry to the fore. Mid-full bodied with good mouth feel it sports a lingering, lip-smacking finish laced with supple tannin, moderating acidity and a boatload of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol
Sourced from various estate vineyards at +3000 feet in the foothills of the Andes, this Mendoza Cab struts its stuff with good balance, firm structure and terrific fruit flavour. Look for aromas of roasted herbs and nuts, mixed field berry and anise providing segue for a medium weight, textured wash of cassis and dark, bittersweet chocolate interwoven with wisps of sweet vanilla and toasty oak underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)
La Posta ‘Pizzella Family Vineyard’ Malbec 2009
Uco Valley, Mendoza $15.95 (166298) 13.5% alcohol
Valle de Uco boasts some of the highest vineyards and coolest evening temperatures in Argentina. Lifted aromas of cedar and toasty, smoky notes herald a spirited, laser-like beam of flavour on the palate—tangy red cherry, racy red currant and spice-infused, ripe black plum. It’s mid weight with a dry, crisp, lingering aftertaste layering on some ripe black currant, a solid tannin underpinning and nuanced of fennel. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with pasta in tomato sauce or pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Trivento ‘Coleccion Fincas No. 2’ Syrah 2006
Finca Los Ponchos, Mendoza $16.95 (269217) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe and robust, this sports dense, delectable flavours and good balance. Aromas of dark berry fruit, tobacco and mixed herbs and peppery notes waft from this mid-full bodied, cool-ish climate Syrah. Layers of dark cherry/berry fruit wash over the palate wreathed in anise and wisps of toasty oak. The aftertaste is dry, fruity with a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Gamma ‘Reserva Privada’ Cabernet/Merlot 2008
Maipo Valley $16.95 (269191) 14.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs and dark toast on the nose, this dishes up a juicy, tangy mouthful of briary berry interwoven with mocha and mint-infused dark succulent cherry. It’s balanced and beautiful with mid-full weight and good texture extending to a lingering finish with lashes of black currant underpinned by supple tannin. A crowd-pleasing red blend for small or large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
Lomas Del Valle Pinot Noir 2010
Casablanca Valley $16.95 (272625) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy underbrush and savoury herb aromas open this light-on-its-feet Pinot from an appellation blessed with cooling Pacific breezes. It offers a solid core of racy, tangy red fruit with sour cherry, currant and cranberry mingling with red licorice. There flavours persist through the long, mouth-watering aftertaste. Delightful sipped on its own, ever so slightly chilled. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of dark berry fruit mingling with fennel and savoury notes provide segue to a racy, robust river of red cherry and red currant flavour with good depth and concentration. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a lingering aftertaste of red cherry and ripe mulberry. The resolving tannin adds good structure. (Vic Harradine)
Best’s ‘Great Western Bin No. 1’ Shiraz 2009
Victoria $23.95 (222323) 14.5% alcohol
Black liquorice, toasty oak and roasted nuts on the nose, it dishes up a stunning tidal wave of rich, luscious Shiraz—nicely balanced and beautiful. Black currant, sweet, succulent mulberry and spiced black plum play on the palate while the lingering aftertaste layers on a supple tannin underpinning and bittersweet chocolate interwoven with black, juicy cherry flavours and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Penfolds ‘Bin 2’ Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2010
South Australia $21.95 (468629) 14.5% alcohol
The subdued nose grudgingly gives up black fruit, gamy notes and nuances of char before shifting into gear on the palate with a woosh of dark Bing cherry, back raspberry and spice. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel plus enough tannin for structure and to warrant a two-hour aeration/decant. The long aftertaste adds another lick of tannin. Pour with marinated, rare-grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)
Tait ‘The Ball Buster’ Red 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (269472) 15.0% alcohol
Roasted nuts, toast and cherry aromas introduce this mostly Shiraz, red blend. Vibrant flavours of sour cherry and kitchen spice interweave with sweet, ripe mulberry and briary berry on the palate carried along on a mid-full weight, highly textured wave. It shows deft balance, nicely integrated oak, some peppery notes and a perceptible, but acceptable, tannin underpinning. Enjoy with grilled rib eye or your favourite red meat from the barbie. (Vic Harradine)
Wakefield Merlot 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (683201) 14.5% alcohol
Wakefield (under their ‘Taylor’ family name) is one of Australia’s First Families of Wine. Subtle aromas of mixed spice and cherry provide segue for a balanced wash of tangy flavour on the palate—red cherry, ripe mulberry and sweet vanilla interlaced with dried herbs and espresso roast. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length finish layering on a hi-toned spine of moderating, lip-smacking acidity. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce smothered in freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic harradine)
Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (084996) 14.0% alcohol
This Aussie gem is listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification. Aromatic bitters, toasty and earthy notes on the nose, it blossoms on the palate with endless waves of ripe mulberry, racy, juicy red currant and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and smooth as silk, the finish is perfectly balanced—each sip as good or better than the previous—and brimming with dark berry fruit and spiced black plum interwoven with espresso roast and mint. Did I mention it’s well structured, delicious and good value? (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Momo Chardonnay 2010
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (247247) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of gooseberry, grassy notes and savoury herbs jump from the glass. On the palate it’s savoury and full of nerve and verve dishing up a solid spine of tang—lemon, gooseberry and passion fruit. Mid weight and nicely textured it finishes dry, crisp and refreshing with a resounding lip-smacking zing. (Vic Harradine)
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $9.95 (160085) 375 mL 13.0% alcohol
Sporting a very expressive nose this rips from the glass with oodles of perfumed aromas—toast, sweet vanilla, pit fruit and spice. There’s a steady wash of apple pie spice, orchard fruit and minerality on the palate and surging through the aftertaste interlaced with nuances of oak, minerality and a citrus bite on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Astrolabe ‘Voyage’ Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (179200) 14.0% alcohol
The lifted nose offers red berry, earthiness, toast and savoury aromas providing segue to a flavour-laden, persistent wash of savoury herbs, racy sour cherry and tangy red currant melding with nuances of riper mulberry. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a racy, mid-length aftertaste underpinned by ripe tannin. Quite linear, should broaden out over the next two years. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Trimbach Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace $18.95 (734517) 13.0% alcohol
Piquant spice and smoky notes on the nose, this showers the palate with a hi tone, focused and persistent stream of crisp lemon-lime, green apple and minerality interlaced with apricot and succulent white nectarine. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a balanced, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste.
William Fevre Sauvignon Blanc Saint-Bris 2010
AOC Saint-Bris $16.95 (626523) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with alluring aromas of brioche, apple and passion fruit providing segue to a refreshing, laser-like rivulet of white grapefruit, gooseberry and lemon sherbet flavour on the palate. It’s light-medium bodied with a dry, crisp aftertaste delivering tang and zest galore. Pour with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Pipeau 2008
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $29.00 (138131) 13.0% alcohol
Black currant, briary berry, mocha and roasted herbs on the nose, this glides effortlessly over the palate in endless waves of flavour—sour cherry and cranberry interlaced with cassis and kirsch liqueur along with nuances of exotic spice. It’s mid weight with silky smooth mouth feel and a long, balanced aftertaste underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2008
AOC St-Émilion $19.95 (979955) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, red cherry, dark berry fruit and spice billow from this mid-weight, nicely textured red blend. The palate’s treated to dark berry fruit, ripe cranberry and sweet mulberry swirling around with spice and espresso roast. It dishes up a fruity wash of flavour that’s underpinned by supple tannin, supported by good balancing acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine de Tilleuls ‘Clos Village’ Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $49.95 (264994) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a perfumed, expressive nose of savoury herbs, spice and mixed red berry, it bathes the palate with a generously textured river of sweet, ripe strawberry and spiced black plum. Balanced and beautiful throughout, the lengthy aftertaste layers on fine-grained tannin and moderating acidity. Serve with smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
Clos de Caveau ‘Fruit Sauvage’ Vacqueyras 2009
AOC Vacqueyras $18.95 (277871) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of sweet, ripe berry fruit—mulberry, black berry—mingle with spice and sweet vanilla on the perfumed nose. Waves of mixed, dark field berry, roasted nuts and black plum wash over the palate extending into the long aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, with good mouth feel and a chewy, chalky finish. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
Delas Frères Saint-Esprit Côtes du Rhône Rose 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône $12.95 (224964) 13.0% alcohol
Lightly hued with a quiet nose, look for pomegranate and spice aromas providing segue to a lighter-styled Rosé with strawberry and red currant washing over the palate and infusing the aftertaste interwoven with red berry fruit and tangy cranberry. Light on its feet and well-priced, it’s worthy of your attention. (Vic Harradine)
Germany: White Wine
Lingenfelder ‘Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel’ Riesling Kabinett 2010
Deutscher Prädikatswein $17.95 (087593) 11.0% alcohol
Ripe pit fruit, mixed spice and lychee nut on the nose, this off-dry, Kabinett dishes up a spray of lime sherbet and lemon tang interwoven with ripe peach and nectarine washing over the palate. It’s light-medium bodied with a mid-length aftertaste and that delightful sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Umani Ronchi ‘Montipagano’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2010
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $13.95 (134585) 13.0% alcohol
Field berry, truffles and charred toast on the nose, it’s light on its feet with great tang and a solid lick of tannin. Sour cherry, red currant and savoury herbs wash softly over the palate with a replay of flavours on the tangy, mouth-watering finish that’s underlain with perceptible tannin. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and poured well alongside meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Baglio Di Pianetto Nero d’Avola 2009
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (207423) 13.5% alcohol
Keep this under your hat until I’ve picked up a few—it’s brimming with dark, rich, ripe fruit and good moderating tang with a drop-dead, gorgeous aftertaste; what’s not to like? Aromas of exotic spice and tobacco abound. Mid-full bodied with a silky smooth and mellow mouth feel, it sports black berry, currant and dark Bing cherry on the palate and the dry, lip-smacking, balanced finish. You’ll be hard pressed to find better at this price. (Vic Harradine)
Antiche Terre Venete Ripasso Valpolicella 2009
DOC Valpolicella $14.95 (178459) 13.5% alcohol
Nicely perfumed on the nose with floral, spice and mixed field berry aromas, it lands softly on the palate with a focused rivulet of cranberry, pomegranate and ripe, red cherry laced with spicy, gamy notes. It’s light-medium weight with a warm, dry aftertaste. Pair with tacos laden with spicy salsa and cheddar cheese or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)
Benedetti Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Valpolicella $44.95 (267864) 16.0% alcohol
Figs, cedar and espresso roast aromas mingle with stewed plum on the nose, replaying on the palate. There are many things to like about this medium-bodied, nicely textured red. It’s straightforward and nicely balanced with good fruit on the warm aftertaste accompanied by that tell-tale Amarone bite. This pours particularly well with cigars, bittersweet chocolate dessert and aged, hard cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Di Majoa Norante Ramitello 2009
DOC Biferno Rosso, Molise $15.95 (973214) 13.5% alcohol
Dark toast, gamy notes and kitchen spice aromas swirl around the glass as precursor to a lively wash of red cherry and dried, crushed currants. Persistent and consistent throughout, this is nicely balanced with good nerve and verve, well paced and well priced. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, dry finish underpinned by still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
Le Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $39.95 (279083) 14.0% alcohol
This is hi toned and classy with good complexity, a firm structure and age on its side. Fresh, lively aromas of red cherry, piquant spice and mocha spill from this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. It’s flavour-laden—spiced black plum, dark briary berry and wisps of black licorice—with a dry, mid-length aftertaste showcasing excellent moderating acidity and supple tannin. Tuck away for two or three years and drink over the next eight years. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino Ducale ‘Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (353201) 13.5% alcohol
Expressive, perfumed aromas of mixed spice, espresso roast and prunes dominate the nose. A racy river of sour cherry and black currant wreathed in red licorice washes over the palate. Medium bodied with good texture this sports a warm aftertaste of ripe cranberry and earthy notes mingling with good moderating acidity and a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant three hours pouring alongside osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Vicchiomaggio ‘Agostino Petri’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (993360) 14.0% alcohol
Minerally, spice box and underbrush on the nose this dishes up oodles of flavour with black currant, racy red cherry and plummy tones interlaced with nuances of mushroom and mocha. It’s mid weight and nicely textured showing great overall balance and a sense of place and purpose. The finish is dry, framed by moderating acidity, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours serving with rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
This is $2 off until May 27 making it $20.95 demanding a multiple purchase Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (224766) 13.0% alcohol
Trivial differences between this and Champagne other than one—this is one-third the price. It’s made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the traditional method and spent over 24 months in bottle on its lees. The fine-bead bubbles are persistent with the mouth-watering aftertaste flavour-laden, crisp and refreshing. The nose and palate are treated to a gorgeous attack of lemon-grapefruit citrus, baking brioche and succulent white peach. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $14.95 (391300) 13.0% alcohol
This hits the bulls-eye with oodles of ripe, fruit flavour, tangy acidity and a terrific price-quality ratio—what’s not to like? Lively aromas of orchard fruit and hints of gooseberry provide segue to a nicely textured wash of balanced flavours with ripe tropical fruit and lemon-lime tang melding perfectly and flowing through the crisp, clean finish. Pour on its own as a delightful sipper or with pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
New in Consignment Wine
Nokhrin is a family-owned wine agency with whom many winecurrent subscribers have developed a relationship after reading winecurrent reviews, ordering and receiving wine delivered to their home or office. Alex Nokhrin dropped by the other day with winery owner Daniele Pelassa, visiting from Piedmonte, Italy, and we tasted the following wines. It’s an opportunity to try wine from a family-owned producer from Piedmonte that are not, yet, available in LCBO stores, but available to you through ‘Private Order’ or ‘Consignment’. Private Orders usually take six to eight weeks for delivery. Read more here…. Pelassa ‘San Vito’ Roero Arneis 2011
DOCG Roero Arneis, Italy $21.35 13.0% alcohol
Arneis is a white indigenous grape of Piedmonte. Due to complexity and its tony neighbourhood, it’s also known as Barolo Bianco. Tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus zest on the nose, it delivers a stunning wash of beautifully balanced flavour—succulent white peach, ripe pear and green apple interlaced with minerality and racy, lip-smacking lemon tang. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and mouth-watering finish. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Pelassa ‘Bricco Enrichetta’ Langhe 2011
DOC Langhe, Italy $16.65 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, lilac and dark, mixed field berry open this approachable red blend—an even split between Barbera and Nebbiolo. It makes a balanced, soft landing on the palate with a smooth and mellow wash of racy, lip-smacking red cherry mingling with sweet, ripe briary berry. Mid weight and silky smooth, it finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering zing and tang. Perfect as an aperitif to get the gustatory juices active, it also pairs well with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or seafood/chorizo paella. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
Cognac Leyrat X.O. Vieille Reserve Cognac
AOC Fins Bois $147.00
Silky smooth with a pleasing, soft, warming alcohol aftertaste, this Fins Bois delivers an interesting bouquet of honeysuckle, apricot and orange zest that blooms in the glass mingling with nutty and spice notes. Flowing seamlessly into the long, layered aftertaste, look for hazelnuts, peel marmalade and sweet, dried fruits interlaced with wisps of mocha. Overall, it’s very tasty with an aura of elegance. Order by the case of 3 for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Pelassa ‘Sot’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2009
DOCG Nebbiolo d’Alba, Italy $25.95 14.0% alcohol
There are floral, spice and red berry fruit aromas on the nose. These broaden out nicely on the palate with a focused, balanced river of pure fruit with black currant and dark cherry to the fore with underlying nuances of kitchen spice and earthiness. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, dry and balanced finish. This is poured well alongside osso bucco. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Pelassa ‘Antaniolo Riserva’ Roero 2008
DOCG Roero, Italy $35.50 14.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours abound in this medium-full bodied, rich, luscious beauty. Dark briary berry and ripe mulberry wash over the plate in endless waves mingling with tangy red cherry adorned by dark chocolate and spice. There’s generous texture, good structure and a supple fine-grained tannin underpinning wreathed by excellent moderating acidity throughout. Good to go now with a three-hour aeration/decant. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Pelassa Barolo 2008
DOCG Barolo, Italy $51.50 15.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, currant and a perfumed bouquet of lilac aromas open this complex, well-structured 100% Nebbiolo, aged 24 months in oak and a further 12 in bottle. Rich, succulent dark, balanced fruit flavours swirl over the palate—cherry, currant and mulberry—adorned by dark, bittersweet chocolate and black liquorice. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a monumental aftertaste replaying similar palate-bathing, lip-smacking flavours. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic