The LCBO has delayed our tasting dates, allowing only one day after tasting to write and deliver the newsletter. We will review only the initial release now in order for you to read and plan your purchases. Reviews of the August 6 release will be sent further in advance.

This release features wines from Greece.



Vinicoles de Samos "Anthemis" Muscat
AO Samos $11.95 (375ml) (653824)

A very perfumed nose (anthemis is Greek for bouquet) of almonds, caramelized sugar and Xmas cake spice oozes tantalizingly from the glass of this dessert wine classic. Flavours of candied ginger, raisins and spiced toffee are wrapped in good acidity that allow it all to hang together quite nicely. Drink this world class bronzed beauty well chilled, on its own or with spiced cake. Extremely well priced. (VH)



Gaia Estate "Notios" Moschofilero/Roditis 2004
Regional Wine of Peloponnisos $14.95 (653774)

Gaia Estate owner and wine maker, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, heads up Greece's most prestigious oenology school and has probably influenced every wine in this release. Interesting aromatics of toast, nuts and brioche can be coaxed from the glass of this medium-bodied white. The palate is warmed by lovely apple and pear flavours that caress rather than attack. Everything is in synch - acidity, fruit flavour and weight, and all combine to deliver a friendly wine that would pair well with grilled bass. (VH)


Santo Wines Assyrtico 2004
AOHQ Santorini $14.95 (627760)

If you've ever been to the Greek islands in summer, you know what arid means. The sun beats down, the earth shimmers, the dogs pant in the shade, the tourists burn... and the Assyrtico vines thrive. The Assyrtico grape is native to Santorini, and what makes it special is its ability to develop and retain acidity in these hot conditions. The Santo Assyrtico has good floral and citrus aromas, lovely pungent citrus and apple flavours and bracing acidity. Try it with seafood (calamari) or grilled white fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)



Chateau Porto Carras 2000
AOHQ Côtes de Meliton $24.95 (921577)

A peculiarly Greek take on Bordeaux, with some indigenous Limnio added to three Bordeaux varieties. This 2000 is already showing a little age in its colour and in some dried fruit notes. But it also shows solid fruit (plum, cherry) and complex notes of tobacco and coffee. The tannins are firm. Not that you have to pair Greek wine with Greek food, but tasting this made me think of grilled lamb chops that were marinated in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, coarse black pepper and rosemary. (RP)


Haggipavlu Aghiorgitiko 2001
AOHQ Nemea $14.95 (692475)

The muted nose is redolent of vanilla, plums and raspberries. The medium to full bodied texture is made quite interesting by a warm, round, fleshy core of sweet cherry fruit, slight bell pepper and ripe tannins. It finishes off clean and tasty with a nice balance of citrussy acidity and ripe raspberries. The red Aghiorgitiko grape is considered one of the best in Greece and Nemea is considered the top viticultural area for it. Would work well with grilled red meats and friends standing around the barbie. (VH)



Delgado Zuleta "La Goya" Manzanilla
Sanlúcar de Barrameda $15.95 (944710)

Wonderful rancio (that peculiar oxidized nose of sherry) aromatics greet the taster whilst the bone dry flavours are reminiscent of green tea, mineral and almonds. Toasted almonds are the perfect foil to this wine when served well chilled as an aperitif. Also works perfectly with consommé as the lengthy aftertaste adds another dimension to delicately flavoured consommé. Some tasters detect a slightly salty tang to this fortified wine, supposedly because the village where this is made is close to the ocean. A great find for Sherry lovers and novices alike and certainly worth its salt. (VH)


André Petit Pineau des Charentes 2002
Cognac, France $17.95 (709873)

Look for a 'hot' (17% alc.) nose of burnt sugar, green tea and candied orange. The palate is attacked, in the nicest way, with a burst of tangy orange marmalade and enough acidity to provide perfect balance to the semi-sweet nectar. Enjoy before or after a meal or pamper yourself with a glass or two any time, just because you're worth it. Serve chilled. Great bang for your buck, this blend of cognac and wine. (VH)



Viña La Rosa "La Capitana" Merlot 2003
Cachapoal Valley $14.95 (655209)

The innocuous red hue of the wine and the muted nose of plums and red berries sets one up for a huge surprise. This wine explodes in your mouth with a mélange of blackberries, black cherries and all manner of rich, dark fruit. Lovely balance is achieved by supple tannins, perfect acidity and a wine that exhibits fruit from the get-go. The lengthy finish has hints of sour cherries. This gargantuan red will certainly separate the women from the girls. Stock up and drink now to 2008. (VH)



Margaret River Wine Production "Baldivis Estate" Chardonnay 2001
Western Australia $14.95 (651380)

Idiosyncratic and atypical aromatics and flavours abound in this gorgeously structured white. Stewed apples and rhubarb compote compete with wild roses on the nose whilst the palate is a mélange of tropical fruit, spicy baked apple and pears. Should be a hit with ABC fans as this smells and tastes like ABC. There is wonderful balance and structure to this. The finish is complex, fruity and pleasing. Try with sautéed Pork medallions. (VH)



Angove's "Red Belly Black" Shiraz 2002
South Australia $16.95 (566877)

The Red Belly Black is back. This wine was first released early this year and sold so well that's been brought back. It's one of those interregional blends that Australians do so well (in this case, Riverland, Padthaway and Rattansbury). Expect a luscious Shiraz with ripe, concentrated dark fruit and complex secondary notes, with excellent balance and good tannins. Ivan Klocubar, Angove's VP Export for North America, calls Red Belly Black "a quintessential Australian Shiraz. It's not a soft, wimpy wine called a Shiraz, it's a true Aussie Shiraz." Get it? If you do, get the wine, too, and pair it up with kangaroo burgers. I'm not joking. Kangaroo meat has just been approved for sale in Canada and will soon be on sale. (RP)


d'Arenberg "The Dead Arm" Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale $54.95 (981183)

Intriguing aromatics of crushed, dried cherries, gamey notes, raspberry compote and tar emanate from the glass. This tightly wound red is not hugely concentrated (cherries, black licorice and coffee), but is rich, beautifully structured and balanced, and a little gutsy (grainy tannins). Is it worth the money? Is the Pope German? For those with verticals (2002 is the 9th vintage), this is the real deal. Hold and drink 2009 - 2015. Shiraz aficionados will try with grilled rare tenderloin of lamb. (VH)


Water Wheel "Memsie" Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2003
Bendigo, Victoria $15.95 (656637)

Wisely sealed under screw cap to ensure freshness, this Aussie red really delivers; from the forward nose of plums and black pepper to the gobs of ripe, rich fruit on the palate plus good acidity. The flavours include concentrated spoonfuls of spicy blackberry compote and very ripe black cherries. The phenomenal sweet (14.8% alc.) fruit finish is lengthy and delicious. You will see more of these elegantly-styled (surprisingly, not jammy) Shiraz from Victoria and they are worth seeking out. Drink now to 2010. (VH)



Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $19.95 (677450)

Unmistakably a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. There's the passion fruit, the melon, the lime, the pungent texture to the fruit and the great zesty acidity. It's a perfect package when it all comes together, and it comes together very well here. Pair it up with seafood like oysters or grilled garlic shrimp. (RP)



Matua "Matheson" Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2002
Hawkes Bay $19.95 586107

The east coast of New Zealand's North Island is becoming well known for its reds, especially the Bordeaux varieties. Here's a chance to try one for under $20. It offers a lovely spicy texture, with rich, intense fruit (plum, cherry, black berry) and complex secondary notes. The tannins are ripe and approachable, and it finishes well. Try it with flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)


Mills Reef Merlot Reserve 2003
Hawkes Bay $25.95 (586123)

Another red from the same region, but this is from the Gimblett Gravels region, which has attracted a lot of attention. There's 20% Cabernet Franc in this, which adds fruit and complexity. Look for a savoury, juicy texture, with quite intense dark fruit and some earthy, dried fruit notes. The tannins are firm, so you can put this aside for another three to five years, or drink it now with rare grilled lamb. (RP)


Oyster Bay Merlot 2004
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (692343)

Crushed, dried cranberries and lilacs form the delicate nose whilst the flavours are all rich sweet brambly berries. This medium-bodied Hawkes Bay offering graphically illustrates why Kiwis are pinning their high red wine hopes on Merlot, and from this particular region. It gets into high gear with a powerful fruit forward finish that is perfectly balanced. Cries out for backstraps of lamb with a piquant pepper rub. (VH)



Bellevue Tumara "Titan" 2002
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 (922211)

This brings together five of Bordeaux's six approved varieties in a beautifully integrated blend. This is what assemblage (what wine blenders do when they're in France) is all about. The ripe fruit flavours, acidity and tannins interplay seamlessly, and the dry texture is set off by the fruity character. It has finesse and substance, and is outstanding at this price. I'll be drinking a bottle with grilled marinated lamb. (RP)



Devois des Agneaux d'Aumelas Blanc 2003
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $17.95 (653543)

An involved and muted nose of red licorice, unidentifiable floral notes and slate lead the lucky taster into a painter's palette of flavours - spicy (cloves) citrus, roasted red peppers and nutty nuances. Nothing ho hum or middle of the road in this unique white. The finish is clean and would pair well with chicken in a creamy mild cheese sauce and pasta. (VH)


Domaine des Cassagnoles 2004
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne $8.95 (931212)

The nettles, gooseberries and herbaceous aromas that float from the glass put one in mind of a racy Sauvignon Blanc. There is enough zingy acidity, passion fruit and fresh lime notes to carry the illusion through to the palate. One could be fooled in a blind tasting, and an even bigger fool for not giving this a try, with or without a chèvre-laced green salad. This is a winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

France: red wine


Vincent Sauvestre Savigney-lès-Beaune 2002
AOC Savigny-les-Beaune $31.95 (940932)

Violets, cherries and a touch of toast waft from the glass of this beautifully made Pinot. It has wonderful structure and mouthfeel from the perceptibly ripe tannins, raspberry and cranberry flavours plus the perfect spine of acidity that adds depth and interest to this lovely medium-bodied red. The finish has nuances of chocolate and more ripe tannins. Drink now to 2010 with Emu carpaccio accompanied by a mustard aioli. (VH)


Red Bicyclette Syrah 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $17.95 (586776)

You've got to hand it to the Vins de Pays d'Oc. More quickly than any wine region in France, they've figured out how to take on the New World: wine quality, price and packaging. This is a really very attractive Syrah with full fruit (cherry, plum) up-front and great spicy notes. It's almost full bodied, has great balance, and will pair well with burgers or grilled rack of lamb infused with garlic and rosemary. It's a step up from the normal price level of Vins de Pays d'Oc, but well worth it. If you miss out, don't despair, because Red Bicyclette is going onto the General List in September. (RP)



Loosen Bros. "Dr. L" Riesling 2004
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $13.95 (599274)

You don't often get this much wine for this few dollars. Loosen is an iconic name among lovers of Riesling, and this "Dr. L" is bound to win them another few thousand converts to the grape and the brand. This shows vibrant citrus and tropical fruit and zippy Riesling acidity in perfect harmony. And there's a little sweetness that will make this a perfect wine for sipping before a meal, then serving with spicy seafood or seafood in a creamy sauce. (RP)



Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2003
DOC Sannio $18.95 (650622)

Lots going on in the complex nose of vanilla, almonds, ripe Bosc pears and garrigue (think mixed herbs). The flavour profile is of citrus, tropical fruit and red licorice. A luxurious and lengthy finish cleans up nicely, but leaves enough fruit (peaches, apples) for it to be a great food wine. Pair with barbie beer can chicken rubbed with rosemary, thyme and served with herbed, oiled, oven-roasted potatoes. Worth every penny. (VH)



Portile Primitivo del Tarantino 2003
IGT Primitivo del Tarantino $14.95 (651927)

With Sideways doing wonders for Pinot Noir, you'd think the wine producers of Taranto would commission Quentin T. to make a movie to promote their Primitivo. There are usually plenty of bodies in a Tarantino flick, lots of primitive emotions, astringent humour, spicy language, intense plots? all the traits of this substantial, spicy, dry-textured and concentrated red, in fact. This is a versatile red, so pair it with burgers, ribs or grilled red meats. (RP)



Plantaze "Vranac Pro Corde" 2003
Serbia & Montenegro $12.95 (972976)

Cherries, leather and currants exude from the nose of this East European red. Very smooth on the palate; the flavours are predominantly sour cherries and chocolate. It is easy drinking, smooth and mellow. While enjoying a glass, try to decipher/understand the back label. In all seriousness, this would not go amiss paired with grilled meats off the barbie as it is as pleasing to the palate as it is to the purse. (VH)

Cheers, Rod and Vic