April 28 Vintages Release

Is it time to rethink Pinotage? Vic takes a crack at this unique South Africa cultivar and you may be surprised with what he comes up with. Read more…
Next issue he’ll offer highlights, takeaways and trip suggestions from his ten-week, in-depth Cape winelands experience. 


How Sweet It Is! or How Sweet Is It?

The LCBO is introducing a method to alert customers to the perception of ‘sweetness’ in wine. You may be familiar with a number appearing on the LCBO shelf tags giving the amount of residual sugar (calibrated g/L) in a particular wine e.g. (0) and (1) were considered ‘dry’; (2) considered ‘off dry’ and so on. Now there’s an organoleptic component as ‘perceived’ sweetness is factored in. How ‘sweet’ a wine tastes can be altered dramatically by the amount of acidity in the wine—acidity can mask residual sugar altering your perception of sweetness. The new system will identify the perceived sweetness not by numbers, but rather terms e.g. Extra dry, Medium Sweet, Sweet and others. For a complete description and a chart comparing both systems Click here… [PDF file]


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Finding Waldo – six wines sport the indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’, four in the Main Release, one in LCBO Portfolio and one in Ontario Wineries – and it’s a 5 star!
• The Reign in Spain – continues with value-laden reds galore in the Spain: Red Wine section—two of the ‘exceptional value’ wines are found here
• Vic’s Picks – what Vic’s buying from this Release: Vinea Garganega 2010; Hogue ‘Genesis’ Syrah 2009; Château Signac ‘Cuvée Chusclan’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009; Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2009; Montebuena 2009

My friend and colleague Susan Desjardins will be sorely missed as she takes a break from the rigor of winecurrent’s tasting and review schedule. As you know, she shouldered a heavy load all winter handling Vintages releases as well as additional tastings. I speak on behalf of all winecurrent subscribers in thanking her and wishing her not only the best in her many other wine pursuits, but also in leaving the door wide open for a return with occasional reviews.

This winecurrent newsletter offers +80 wines beginning with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on ‘Wines of Veneto, Italy’ then a mini-feature on ‘New Zealand Whites’ followed by the Main Release then some great—and great-value—wines in categories that follow.

Feature: Veneto, Italy

San Raffael ‘Monte Tabor’ Soave 2010
DOC Soave $14.95 (277392) 12.5% alcohol
This should resonate with white-wine lovers delivering complex flavours with creamy smooth texture a mouth-watering finish and a price-quality balance tipped in their favour. Aromas and complex fruit-laden flavours of spice, ripe pear, ripe apple and almonds interwoven with mouth-watering citrus abound. It’s mid weight with a smooth, mellow mouth feel and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)


Vinea Garganega 2010
IGT Veronese $13.95 (230656) 13.0% alcohol
Floral, liquorice and slate on the nose, this is a gorgeous white wine with oodles of flavour, great balance and a boatload of charm. The palate’s treated to an explosion of balanced and beautiful flavour—succulent white nectarine, crisp green apple and a blaze of citrus tang. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a mouth-watering aftertaste. A lawn-chair sipper for sure, it also pours well with lighter styled dishes like green salad with chèvre or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)


Stefano Accordini ‘Acinatico’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore $19.95 (85159) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and compelling aromas on the nose—black plum, raisin and mocha—blossom on the smooth-as-silk palate with a complex river of sweet, ripe briary berry, bittersweet chocolate and moderating juicy, tangy red cherry. It’s mid weight with good balance throughout sporting a long, delicious aftertaste framed by supple tannin and tangy red fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi ‘Arele’ Appassimento 2009
IGT Veronese $17.95 (224188) 13.0% alcohol
This is quite tangy and juicy with a robust initial attack on the palate of sour cherry and pomegranate. It softens on the mid palate morphing into a ripe, sweet wave of ripe, dark mulberry and cassis followed by a wonderful bite on the aftertaste. Not to everyone’s taste, must confess I loved it, but great value and worth a punt if you like Ripasso or Amarone. (Vic Harradine)


Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Valpolicella $34.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
Straightforward and pleasant aromas of fig, raisin and mocha presage a full-bodied river of nicely textured flavour of black plum compote, sweet Bing cherry and roasted coffee bean on the palate. It’s full-bodied with a lingering finish of bittersweet chocolate and red cherry. Good to go now with a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano or death-by-chocolate cake. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Valpolicella $25.95 (980128) 15.0% alcohol
Complex with good structure, it’s a template for well-made Amarone—a bit pricey, but well worth it. Fruit-laden aromas of currant and stewed dark fruit mingle with almonds and exotic spice and herbs. It’s über rich on the palate with tidal wave of full-bodied, creamy-textured, spice-infused black currant, red, juicy cherry and blueberry interwoven with with toast and a hit of double espresso. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: New Zealand White Wine

Two Rivers of Marlborough ‘Convergence’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (277707) 13.5% alcohol
This is robust and raunchy with a grassy, herbaceous, gooseberry nose presaging an über tangy gusher of palate-coating flavour with lime cordial, lemongrass and herbaceous notes up front with good moderating acidity and green, grassy notes in support. It’s medium-bodied, nicely textured with a mouth-watering, clean, crisp finish. (Vic Harradine)


Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (735043) 14.0% alcohol
This opens with grassy herbaceous notes of green pea and gooseberry aromas on the lifted nose. It bathes the palate with soft fruity flavours of lemongrass and key lime pie mingling with slate. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with an unusual blaze of very ripe, warm tropical fruit on the finish. Best poured with Cajun-spice-rubbed, blackened cat fish. (Vic Harradine)


Dog Point Chardonnay 2009
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (238568) 14.0% alcohol
Expressive aromas of hazelnut, toast and marzipan provide segue to tangy citrus-driven flavours of lemon zest and grapefruit interlaced with crisp, green apple. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a clean, crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Spy Valley Pinot Gris 2011
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (277723) 14.5% alcohol
This weighs in with hi-octane alcohol, huge mouth feel and über-ripe, sweet, fruit flavours—not for the faint of heart. Aromas of nectarine, nougat and quince jelly herald a tidal wave of palate-coating flavours with peach cobbler, apple pie and sweet, desiccated apricot to the fore. It’s full-bodied, fully textured with a lengthy, fruity, off-dry aftertaste. Pour with hearty, spicy Asian cuisine like butter chicken or goat biryani. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Icewine

Equifera Riesling Icewine 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 375 mL (274472) 9.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of marmalade, spun sugar and toffee presage a tidal wave of honeyed orchard fruit and marzipan interlaced with moderating acidity—lemon chiffon pie, lime cordial and apple torte. It’s medium bodied with generous mouth feel and a monumental aftertaste that cleans up well with a mouth-watering blaze. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
Twenty Mile Bench, VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 (33910) 13.0% alcohol
Apple pie spice, toast and citrus interlace with Granny Smith apple on the nose. It coats the palate with endless waves of complex, structured flavour—crisp green apple, bracing citrus acidity and slate mingling with softer nuances of ripe pear and lemon yoghurt. It’s mid weight with generous texture and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste showing the barest wisp of deftly integrated oak. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (277483) 11.5% alcohol
Ripe sweet orchard fruit, floral notes and a streak of minerality provide segue for a wash of succulent white nectarine, zesty citrus tang and honeyed apple and pear. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a lip-smacking, yin and yang, sweet and tang, off-dry finish. Pour on its own or alongside white pizza with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Colchester Ridge ‘Crew’ Meritage 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 (280990) 13.4% alcohol
Sour cherry and spice-infused berry fruit aromas provide segue for a spice-laden wash of red fruit—currant, cherry and cranberry mingling with beetroot and notes of earthiness. The lingering finish layers on anise-infused sour cherry and red grapefruit tang. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Cuvaison Chardonnay 2009
Carneros, Napa Valley $29.95 (988261) 14.2% alcohol
Cuvaison’s top-drawer, Saskatchewan-born winemaker, Steven Rogstad, has fashioned an understated, cool-climate Chardonnay that’s lively and light on its feet. Aromas and flavours of nutmeg and cinnamon interlaced with honeyed fruit, binned apple and citrus stream over the palate persisting through the long finish. It’s nicely balanced with a mid-length, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Napa Valley $28.95 (94375) 13.5% alcohol
Not a style that’s for everyone, but it’s interesting and if the review describes your kind of wine, go for it. Green, grassy and gooseberry on the nose, the palate’s treated to a fully textured, creamy-smooth surge of fleshy flavour with ripe, sweet pit fruit—nectarine, mango, yellow plum—juxtaposed with zesty lemon-lime in a sweet and tang, off-dry blaze on the finish. Pour with spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)


Irony Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $19.95 (27409) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with subdued aromas of orchard fruit, kitchen spice and green apple, it shifts into gear on the palate with a silky-smooth wash of flavour—succulent white peach, ripe Mirabelle plum and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s mid weight with a lengthy aftertaste of zippy citrus and softer ripe orchard fruit. Serve as a welcoming wine or with steamed crab or lobster dipped in clarified butter. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Beringer Merlot 2009
Napa Valley $29.95 (919647) 14.4% alcohol
Black plum, mixed spice and mocha aromas provide segue to a smooth and mellow wash of dark, juicy Bing cherry and dark berry fruit interwoven with espresso roast and black plum compote. It’s well paced and well priced with good balance, nicely integrated oak and a lingering, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)


Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Paso Robles $43.95 (680835) 14.9% alcohol
Savoury herbs and spice, dark berry fruit and hints of cocoa dominate the nose while flavour rolls over the palate in endless waves—ripe dark cherry, blueberry and spiced black currant. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with good grip and charm. The long, juicy aftertaste is framed with mouth-watering acidity and underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Alexander Valley $23.95 (38075) 14.2% alcohol
An outstanding red blend—80% Cabernet, 14% Merlot and a couple of spoonfuls of Petite Syrah, Petit Verdot—pick up a few. Beguiling aromas of spice, dark berry fruit, espresso roast and black liquorice presage structured, well-paced flavours with cassis, ripe briary berry and hints of truffle to the fore. It’s mid-full weight, well balanced with generous texture and a monumental aftertaste of kirsch liqueur and blueberry balanced with excellent moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)


Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Zinfandel 2008
Sonoma/San Joaquin $19.95 (269373) 14.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of tangy red cherry and spice presage a warm, soft wash of cassis, black raspberry jam and black currant. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and full-throttle fruit throughout. The aftertaste shows good restraint with a sense of balance through moderating acidity and isn’t cloying. (Vic Harradine)


Ravenswood ‘Single Vineyard Pickberry Red’ 2007
Sonoma Mountain $44.95 (200865) 14.5% alcohol
Mocha, underbrush and dark, ripe berry fruit aromas open this mid-full-weight, chewy, cellar dweller. Dark briary berry, cassis and earthy tones are carried along on a solid tannin underpinning framed by good moderating acidity. It finishes lengthy, juicy and full of promise. Tuck this red blend —58% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon— away until 2015 pouring alongside a slab of grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $49.95 (996405) 13.9% alcohol
An involved nose of dried currant, fennel, vanilla and spice aromas open this structured, high-toned, Napa Cab. Waves of flavour wash over the palate with black currant, dark, juicy, Bing cherry and bramble berry predominant. It’s full weight with good mouth feel and a glorious, lengthy finish of cassis adorned with wisps of charred oak, underpinned by perceptible tannin. Give it a lengthy aeration/decant pouring with a thick, juicy steak pulled from the Big Green Egg—lots of life in this, can easily go to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Andrew Rich ‘Cuvée B’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $29.95 (127043) 13.5% alcohol
Asian spice, cola and toasty oak on the nose, it sports a persistent, balanced attack on the palate with tangy black berry and red currant juxtaposed with sweet ripe mulberry adorned with mocha and earthy tones. It’s medium bodied, nicely structured with silky texture and a lingering, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste—each sip’s better than the previous. Roll this out with smoked duck breasts over mesclun salad drizzled with mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

Hogue ‘Genesis’ Syrah 2009
Columbia Valley $19.95 (687822) 13.9% alcohol
This is a ripper—value-packed, fully flavoured and downright delicious. Black pepper, sweet berry fruit and kitchen spice aromas herald an incredibly juicy, well-balanced rush of flavour—tangy black currant, briary berry and spiced black plum mingling with anise and nuances of toast. Mid weight, smooth as silk and very well paced, the memorable aftertaste lingers with oodles of fruit and a barrel of charm. Go for the gusto and pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Los Haroldos ‘Reserva de Familia’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $14.95 (269068) 13.5% alcohol
Very quiet on the nose with subdued aromas of berry fruit and gamy notes it bursts on the palate with hearty black berry, and juicy dark Bing cherry interwoven with herbs and spice. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish underpinned with a solid lick of tannin and good moderating acidity. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)


Mendel Malbec 2009
Mendoza $24.95 (108225) 14.2% alcohol
Ripe, spicy, dark berry fruit mingles with underbrush on the lifted nose of this juicy, tangy Malbec. There’s a good spine of acidity throughout setting off rich flavours of black plum compote and spice-infused sour cherry. It finishes tangy with an overlay of char, underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or cellar a couple of years, either way pouring with grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)


Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $21.95 (79798) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding this jumps from the glass with an aromatic blast of mixed spice, smoke and toasty oak. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with a wash of sour cherry interwoven with red and black currant on the palate and lengthy, dry finish. There’s a solid lick of tannin on the palate and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours or cellar three more years. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

Calina ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2010
Aconcagua Valley $14.95 (640912) 13.5% alcohol
Cocoa, toast, toffee and orchard fruit on the nose, this value-packed Chardonnay shifts into high gear on the palate with a gusher of apple torte, ripe Bosc pear and moderating citrus acidity. This is well balanced with lovely texture throughout. The aftertaste is clean, crisp and refreshing. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Leasingham ‘Winemakers Selection Bin 61’ Shiraz 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (448241) 13.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit, minty notes and black pepper aromas introduce this medium-full bodied, silky smooth, cooler-climate, Shiraz. There’s good sense of purpose here with a focused, persistent stream of red and dark berry fruit adorned with liquorice and toasty oak. It’s medium weight with nice texture and a tangy, juicy, dry aftertaste. Pair with smoked, grilled back ribs brushed with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Saltram ‘Mamre Brook’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (48579) 15.5% alcohol
An involved nose of sweet vanilla, red liquorice and kitchen spice presages a mid-full weight, generously textured wash of sour cherry, blood orange and mixed field berry that bathes the palate infusing the luxuriously lengthy finish. It’s nicely balanced and well defined with juicy, ripe fruit, tangy acidity and a supple tannin frame. (Vic Harradine)


Sister’s Run ‘Epiphany’ Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $15.95 (269464) 14.5% alcohol
This will have huge crowd-appeal—jam-packed with fruit offering very good value. It’s chockfull of rich, jammy fruit—raspberry, mulberry and black berry—ably balanced by juicy acidity and enough tannin for structure and interest. It’s rich and concentrated, full bodied with loads of texture and a long fruit-filled aftertaste. It’s a hedonist’s joy to pour and to drink. (Vic Harradine)


St. Hallett ‘Gamekeeper’s Shiraz’ 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.95 (166991) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury herbs galore on the nose, interlaced with mixed field berry aromas, this dishes out a surge of tang and lively red fruit on the palate and lengthy finish—red currant, cranberry and cherry—mingle with blueberry and spice. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it’s particularly versatile with comfort food—pizza, burgers, wings or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Two Hands ‘Gnarly Dudes’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (660043) 14.8% alcohol
If you generally poke around in the $30 bin or there’s a special occasion on the horizon, this should fit the bill. Potent, rich aromas of eucalyptus, black pepper and crushed, dried fruit and spice open this full-bodied, fully flavoured, complex and concentrated Shiraz. Sweet, ripe mulberry and dark juicy cherry interweave with espresso roast and toast on the palate with the lingering finish providing balance via a frame of juicy tang underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Willy Gisselbrecht ‘Tradition’ Riesling 2010
AOC Alsace $15.95 (169011) 12.0% alcohol
Lifted and perfumed aromas of lychee, minerality and citrus open this well-paced and well-priced Riesling. Tangy and juicy throughout, there’s a gusher of flavour with lemon-lime acidity mingling with white nectarine and crisp apple on the palate. Good moderating acidity persists on the mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared scallops or seafood paella. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Navarro Blanc 2010
AOC Graves $14.95 (264739) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of minerality and slate with lemon grass and citrus herald a bracing river of tangy, juicy acidity with lemon zest and white grapeftuit to the fore. If you’re a Chablis fan, you’ll enjoy this at half the price. It’d light-medium bodied throughout, finishing crisp, clean and refreshing with a slight hint of saline. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Bachey-Legros ‘Vielles Vignes’ Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2009
AOC Morgeot $53.95 (268508) 14.0% alcohol
Nutmeg, cinnamon and orchard fruit on the nose, this delivers a joyous amlagalm of complex flavours—mixed spice, toast and almonds interlace with citrus, apple and savoury herbs and spice. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with complexity, charm and a long lip-dmacking aftertaste. Pour with roast pork or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)


Chavet & Fils ‘La Dame de Jacques Coeur’ Menetou-Salon Blanc 2010
AOC Menetou-Salon $19.95 (525048) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a subdued nose of citrus and orchard fruit, this delivers a stream of crisp, green apple, slate and white nectarine riding a bracing river of citrus tang and lip-smacking acidity. It’s clean and crisp matching up well to pan-seared white fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Henri Bourgeois ‘Petit Bourgeois’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Vins de Pays du Jardin de la France $14.95 (672345) 12.5% alcohol
From a top-notch producer that delivers each and every time, aromas of grassy and herbaceous notes with piquant spice rip from the glass. Flavours sing across the palate with a lively undercurrent of acidity—lemon-lime tang, pineapple and white grapefruit galore. Pour with white pizza adorned with arugula and chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château des Moines 2009
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $21.95 (206789) 13.0% alcohol
Deeply hued in the glass, rich and hearty aromas spill easily with black licorice and gamy notes interlaced with dark berry fruit. On the palate and aftertaste there’s dark cherry and blueberry mingling with black pum compote while it finishes with nuances of graphite and cedar. It’s mid weight and straightforward with decent texture and good balance. (Vic Harradine)


Château Sainte Barbe ‘Les Argiles’ 2008
AOC Bordeaux $14.95 (244681) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy and berry fruit aromas herald a persistent, nicely balanced wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and black plum compote mingling with vibrant spice cake flavour. It’s good weight, mellow and smooth on the palate with a lengthy finish of dark berry fruit and dark chocolate underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Esprit de Pavie 2008
AOC Bordeaux $32.95 (244020) 14.0% alcohol
Mocha, earthiness and dark toast define the aromas while flavours spill over the palate riding a gripping line of acidity—zesty red currant, tangy cranberry and juicy sour cherry. It’s medium bodied with a solid tannin structure leading to a dry, taut aftertaste. Good to go after a two-hour aeration/decant poured alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine du Penlois Juliénas 2010
AOC Juliénas $16.95 (112532) 13.0% alcohol
From one of the ten Crus in Beaujolais, this outpaces garden-variety bottlings. Spice, black plum and earthy notes and interweave with red berry fruit persisting through the tangy, juicy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied delivering a fruit-filled, balanced finish. Poured well on its own, it also pairs nicely with a deli board or arugula under crumble chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de Rochebin ‘Clos St. Germain Vielles Vignes’ Bourgogne 2009
AOC Bourgogne $17.95 (264549) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s good Pinot from a respected region offering value and balanced flavour throughout. Rich Asian spice and fresh-picked strawberry on the nose, this broadens out considerably on the palate and aftertaste with smooth, mellow flavours of sweet cherry clafoutie interlaced with black plum and blueberry. It’s light on its feet with nice texture ; you won’t find a lot of better Burgundy at this price. (Vic Harradine)


Arnoux & Fils ‘The Vac’ Vacqueyras 2009
AOC Vacqueyras $19.95 ( 264663) 14.5% alcohol
Complex aromas of black berry, sweet vanilla, kitchen spice and wood smoke pour from this deftly balanced, well-structured beauty. Red cherry and kirsch liqueur spill over the palate along with briary berry adorned by spice, hints of tar and fennel. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, delicious aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Château Signac ‘Cuvée Chusclan’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $16.95 (252288) 14.0% alcohol
Flying under the radar, here’s a red blend—45% Syrah, 30% Carignan, 25% Grenache—that opens with aromas of cherry, red liquorice and mixed herbs and spice. The palate’s treated to structured, balanced waves of mulberry, black currant and kirsch liqueur nicely balanced with moderating sour cherry underpinned by subtle tannin. It’s light-medium weight with a lip-smacking, lengthy finish. Pick up a few for summer barbies. (Vic Harradine)

France Rosé Wine

Perrin ‘Réserve’ Rosé 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (719062) 13.5% alcohol
Fresh, lively aromas of strawberry, rose petals and spice provide segue for a dry, balanced, flavour-packed Rosé. Fruit forward and far from shy, it showers the palate with tangy, red raspberry, freshly sliced strawberry and spiced red plum. It finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering tang. Value packed, food friendly and lip-smacking good, pick up a few while you can. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: Red Wine

Tselepos Driopi Agiorgitiko 2008
PDO Nemea $18.95 (269043) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s something from well outside the waters where most people fish for red wine—it’s nicely balanced and flavourful offering good value. Lighter styled with involved aromatics—clove, cinnamon, red berry fruit and savoury notes—it bathes the palate with mellow and smooth, sweet berry fruit mingling with ripe dark cherry on the palate and dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Take a punt, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Marziano Abbona Terlo Ravera Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $42.95 (67918) 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from a 4-ha site of three-decade-old Nebbiolo vines, this gem jumps from the glass with aromas of spice, red and black berry fruit mingling with perfumed lilac blossoms. This showcases complexity and structure while brimming with flavour—dark, juicy Bing cherry, cassis and bramble berry. Medium-full weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel, the balanced aftertaste brushes on a broad stripe of tannin and good moderating acidity. Aerate/decant a couple of hours or tuck away until 2014, drinking until 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Brancaia ‘Tre’ 2009
IGT Toscana $22.95 (164715) 13.5% alcohol
The quiet nose begrudgingly offers up mixed spice, leather and dark berry fruit. It’s juicy and tangy with a wash of sour cherry and red berry fruit interwoven with nuances of pomegranate and espresso roast. There’s mid weight and a dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour with pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Isole E Olena Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $26.95 (704346) 14.5% alcohol
Funky aromas that are gamy with savoury herbs and mushroom open this Sangiovese blend. It comes through on the palate as mid weight with reasonable texture and a wash of rich, ripe mulberry, currant and dried cherry flavour adorned with mixed spice. It finishes dry with good fruit wreathed in hints of cedar and tar. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Torres ‘Viña Esmeralda’ 2010
DO Catalunya $13.95 (113696) 11.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed—a dab behind the ear would last all day—aromas of orange blossom, exotic spice and musk abound. Lighter in style and flavour than previous vintages, this light-on-its-feet blend delivers a subdued wash of spice-infused citrus and melon flavours on the palate. It’s off-dry and dishes up a pleasant mid-length finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Allende 2006
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (954560) 13.5% alcohol
Spice-laden and ready to drink, the bouquet offers mixed spice, strawberry and leather aromas. It’s medium bodied, with a gorgeous mouth feel—mellow and smooth—that’s brimming with tangy, juicy red fruit—cranberry, currant and cherry. The lengthy finish replays flavours from the palate layering on a stripe of toasted oak and mocha. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Olarra ‘Anares’ Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (244723) 13.5% alcohol
Seven years old with a ‘Reserva’ stamp is icing on the cake for this gorgeously structured, intense, well-balanced blend—75% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha with Mazuelo and Graciano. It opens with lifted aromas of spicy black plum and black currant followed by good grip on the palate with a mid-weight body and generous texture. Concentrated flavours wash in waves over the palate and lengthy, dry finish—red cherry and blueberry interlaced with mocha. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2009
DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas of sharp herbs and spice, cedar and a mixed field blend of dark berry fruit open this intense, well-balanced, smooth and elegant red. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with oodles of charm and flavour—tangy, briary berry, ripe mulberry and nuances of spice-infused black currant. The fruit-fuelled finish lingers with a supple tannin underpinning framed by good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)


Condado de Haza Tinto 2008
DO Ribera del Duero $23.95 (963348) 14.0% alcohol
Owner/winemaker Alejandro Fernandez, doyen of Rioja and staunch champion of Tempranillo, fashions yet another worthy gem. Gunflint, exotic spice and gamy notes on the nose, this settles on the palate with medium weight, good mouth feel and racy red cherry and cranberry moderated by kirsch liqueur and cassis on the mid palate and finish. It’s young and a bit gangly with perceptible tannin—cellar until 2014. (Vic Harradine)


Montebuena 2009
DOCa Rioja $12.95 (211029) 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry aromas and spice mingle with earthy tones heralding a balanced, fully textured wash of dark, juicy cherry and sweet mulberry interlaced with mocha. It’s smooth, mellow and creamy throughout with a dry, fruity aftertaste. Great sipping on its own with each sip as good or better as the one before and poured well with grilled and roasted red meat and fowl. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Raimat Abadia Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo 2008
DO Costers del Segre $15.95 (935460) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, leather and freshly picked strawberry aromas provide segue to a spirited and complex wash of sweet, ripe fruit—tangy black berry, succulent mulberry and blueberry interlaced with spice-infused black plum. It’s medium bodied and finishes in a blaze of juicy, zesty, red berry tang. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: July 21, 2012

Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (089011) 13.0% alcohol
Hints of honeyed orchard fruit, kiwi and lemongrass provide segue to a gorgeously textured, flavour-laden, off-dry gem. Hand picked, hand sorted and barrel fermented, it’s mid weight, mellow and creamy smooth dishing up a river of lemon yoghurt, tangy key lime and sweet pineapple. It finishes lip-smacking good with oodles of charm and appeal. Pour alone or with pan-seared scallops over mesclun with Gorgonzola. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Viognier 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of nectarine, sweet spring flowers and spiced poached pear provide segue to a creamy-textured explosion of palate-coating flavours. This is concentrated and brimming with depth and complexity; honey-infused musk melon, apple crumble and marzipan run rampant over the palate and lingering aftertaste. Amidst this array of texture and charm, there’s balance and a refreshing finish. Winemaking wizard, Richie Roberts, waves his magic wand. (Vic Harradine)


Rutherglen Estates ‘Estate Grown’ Petit Sirah 2008
Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia $20.95 (179127) 14.5% alcohol
Petit Sirah’s known as Durif in this corner of Oz, with ancient vines adding grip and structure. Espresso roast, dark, ripe berry fruit and cedar on the nose, this dishes up a complex, chewy mouthful of black currant, briary berry and tangy cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lip-smacking aftertaste adorned with good grip and a core of tangy berry fruit. Pick up a bottle or two. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 4, 2012

Fielding Estate Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 13.0% alcohol
Charming aromas of spice, tobacco and berry compote flow easily from this flavour-laden gem. Red cherry, spice, black plum and smoky, dark berry fruit wash in endless waves framed by moderating acidity, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin—simply lip-smacking good. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel, deft balance and loads of appeal. Pour now and for the next five years alongside grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 18, 2012

Calamus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $19.95 (285809) 12.5% alcohol
Earthy and toasty, aged 26 months in French and American oak, this wine marries aromas of herbs and roast peppers with black cherry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, with a crisp juicy texture and perceptible tannin, it offers flavours of red cherry and raspberry with a dash of pepper and a hint of spice. The lasting tangy finish makes it a match for barbequed sausages or veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: to be determined

Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108) 12.0% alcohol
Complex, structured and brimming with finesse and charm, this is balanced, food friendly and mouth-watering. It’s slightly bronze/pink hued and nicely perfumed with sexy aromas of honeysuckle, musky spice and honeydew melon. Full flavoured, nicely balanced and silky smooth, a persistent wash of soft tropical fruit flavours, key lime and grapefruit pith ends crisp, tangy and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Classics Collection

Fielding Estate Winery ‘Meritage’ 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.00 (279760) 13.5% alcohol 

Dark, rich and bursting with complex flavour and promise, this red blend—Merlot and the two Cabernets—deserves serious consideration. Aromas of spice, toast, dark berry fruit and floral notes blossom from this medium-full bodied, amply textured gem. The palate’s treated to luscious flavours with cassis, pomegranate and kirsch liqueur to the fore. The balanced finish is adorned with savoury herbs and lingers impressively. Drink 2013 to 2018. You may also order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)


Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2009 

WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa $45.00 13.5% alcohol 

Also available now in the SAQ #11155737 at $40.25, this offers up aromas of rose petals, exotic spice, gamy tones and a dark, earthy character. There’s great carpentry here with a supple tannin underpinning, good complexity and wonderful sense of purpose. The fruit’s in the red zone with currant, cherry and ripe cranberry carried on a moderating bed of acidity coupled with juicy, tangy fruit through the dry, mouth-watering finish. More old world than new with a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages: Released April 14, plenty available on LCBO shelves

Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (275404) 13.0% alcohol
Rich and robust from the get go, lifted aromas of caramelized toasty oak, nutty notes and vanilla abound. There’s a profusion of mid-weight, creamy smooth texture bearing rich, complex flavours—spiced apple compote, sweet vanilla and zesty, tangy lemon citrus. There’s great nerve and verve and oodles of charm from twist top to the last, lip-smacking drop. Pour with roast pork or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)

Released November 26, 20011, plenty available on LCBO shelves

Equifera Icewine Vidal 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (256715) 375 mL 9.8% alcohol
‘The Don’ himself, Donald Ziraldo, consulted on this wine—he’s the one who, with winemaker Karl Kaiser, jump-started the modern Ontario wine industry. This has ripe apricot, peel marmalade and mango on the nose followed by palate-coating flavour of caramelized pineapple, treacle and lemon pie filling. It’s fully flavoured and nicely textured with an aftertaste that’s blessed with moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Château Ducla 2009
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $14.95 (255067) 13.5% alcohol
Great value here with a rich, juicy, nicely balanced red blend from Bordeaux, one of the most expensive, sought-after wine regions in France. Spiced black plum, black liquorice and dark berry fruit on the nose, it washes over the palate in streams of black berry, spiced cherry and nuances of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied with good texture, a supple tannin structure and a lengthy, balanced finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate ‘White Conception’ 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (203737) 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of orange blossom, lemon pie filling, piquant spice and wisps of anise roll from this medium-bodied, gorgeously textured bend—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer. Winemaker Richie Roberts hits the bulls-eye with a balanced, structured, persistent wash of mouth-watering flavour with crisp, refreshing grapefruit, succulent white peach and a blaze of lip-smacking tang on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Riesling 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (146761) 10.5% alcohol
Spring flowers, pear and honeyed orchard fruit aromas open this value-packed, flavour-laden, just off-dry Riesling. It’s well balanced with good texture dishing up a stream of lime cordial, sweet nectarine and a delightful, ripe pit fruit and tangy finish. It’s good quaffing on its own, pouring particularly well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

Mudgee & Frankland River, Australia $15.95 (187179) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury dill weed, roasted nuts and berry fruit aromas herald a mid-weight wash of sour cherry and spice-infused cranberry interlaced with pomegranate underpinned by grippy tannin. The dry, savoury aftertaste layers on tangy red currant and charry notes. Pair with smoked, grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)


James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Chardonnay 2009 

Mudgee & Pemberton, Australia $14.95 (187104) 12.8% alcohol
Vanilla, hazelnut and ripe apple aromas abound in this mid-weight, flavour-laden Chardonnay. Textured flavours of tropical fruit, succulent peach and moderating lemon citrus bathe the palate persisting though the nicely balanced, lingering finish. Great sipping on its own, terrific with vegetarian caramelized onion quiche. (Vic Harradine)


Yvon Mau Colombard/Chardonnay 2011
Vin de Pays Côtes de Gascogne, France $8.95 (627265) 11.5% alcohol
Honeyed orchard fruit and floral notes dominate the aromas in this inexpensive, patio sipper. It hits the sweet spot in flavour and price delivering a wash of sweet, tropical fruit, ripe plum and poached pear that coats the palate persisting through the lingering aftertaste. It has good texture and pours well with spicy Asian cuisine or green salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Yvon Mau Merlot 2010
Vin de Pays de l’Aude, France $8.95 (336743) 13.0% alcohol
Lively and fresh, brimming with flavour and value, this over-delivers on the nose and palate with aromas of berry fruit and spice presaging a medium-bodied, well-textured river of sweet ripe, cherry and blueberry mingling with spice box. Mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced aftertaste, give it a go with meat-laden pizza, pasta in tomato sauce, spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Calamus ‘Barrel-Kissed’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.20 12.6% alcohol
Attractive notes of toffee and toasted nuts mingle with the scent of orchard and tropical fruit on the nose and the palate. Pleasant, fresh acidity underlines the toasty notes and tasty fruit. Dry, mid-weight and quite creamy, this approachable wine finishes with lingering notes of sweet fruit and nut brittle. Order for daily home or office delivery from Calamus Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Calamus Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.20 12.5% alcohol
Aged over two years in French and American oak, this wine offers attractive, complex aromas—dried, herbs, subtle floral notes, black berries, an earthy quality and a whiff of vanilla. Dry, mid-weight, with a fresh texture, it displays a good balance of tangy fruit, sweet spice, subtle tannins and lively acidity. Well-integrated oak and zesty pepper mingle with fresh fruit flavours through the finish. Cellar short term. Order for daily home or office delivery from Calamus Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Fielding Estate Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.15 13.0% alcohol
Charming aromas of spice, tobacco and berry compote flow easily from this flavour-laden gem. Red cherry, spice, black plum and smoky, dark berry fruit wash in endless waves framed by moderating acidity, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin—simply lip-smacking good. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel, deft balance and loads of appeal. Pour now and for the next five years alongside grilled strip loin. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.15 13.0% alcohol
Apple pie spice, nutty notes and marzipan on the nose, this medium bodied, nicely textured Chard delivers a spirited river of lemon citrus, binned apple, leesy notes and grapefruit on the palate and persistent aftertaste. New and seasoned French oak were used in barrel fermentation—partial wild ferment—and ageing. To be released August 2012, order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.15 (251108) 12.0% alcohol
Complex, structured and brimming with finesse and charm, this is balanced, food friendly and lip-smacking good. It’s slightly bronze/pink hued and nicely perfumed with sexy aromas of honeysuckle, musky spice and honeydew melon. Fully flavoured and textured, nicely balanced and silky smooth, a persistent wash of soft tropical fruit flavours, key lime and grapefruit pith ends crisp, tangy and refreshing. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Viognier 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.15 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of nectarine, sweet spring flowers and spiced poached pear provide segue to a creamy-textured explosion of palate-coating flavours. This is concentrated and brimming with depth and complexity; honey-infused musk melon, apple crumble and marzipan run rampant over the palate and lingering aftertaste. Amidst this array of texture and charm, there’s balance and a refreshing finish. Winemaking wizard, Richie Roberts, waves his magic wand. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wine

Bidgeebong Wines ‘Triangle’ Chardonnay 2008
Tumbarumba and Gundagai, Australia $17.95 13.5% alcohol
This is rock-solid 4 stars, brimming with rich, ripe, fruit-laden aromas and flavours. From lesser-known, cool-climate regions near Canberra this opens with lifted, perfumed aromas of peach, apple and tropical fruit. It washes over the palate with fresh and lively, crisp, green apple, ripe, juicy pineapple and lemon citrus. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced lip-smacking finish—good value, as well. Order by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Forcado ‘Flor de Baco’ Crianza 2008
DOCa Rioja, Spain $18.50 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice and dark berry fruit set up this delicious young red. It’s med-full weight with generous mouth feel and persistent river of juicy, rich flavour—ripe mulberry, spiced black plum and dark briary berry adorned with nuances of licorice. The dry, fruity aftertaste lingers lip-smacking good. Versatile and food friendly pour with paella, pasta in tomato sauce or gourmet burgers. Order by the case for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)


Greenpiper ‘Night Harvest – Red Label’ Shiraz-Cabernet 2010
Western Australia $17.50 14.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet red blend dishes up aromas of cherry cordial and earthy tones presaging a balanced wash of sweet cherry and spice on the palate. The dry, tangy finish is redolent of red currant and red cherry interlaced with savoury spice providing a clean, refreshing aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)


Maior de Mendoza ‘Argos’ Albariño 2010
DO Rias Baixis, Spain $19.25 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of ripe peach, orange blossom and tropical fruit herald an outstanding river of fully-flavoured, gorgeously textured white nectarine, lively lemon pie filling and key lime. This coats the palate and senses—it’s medium bodied with good texture and a crisp, mouth-watering finish. Good to go on its own, divine with shrimp kebabs or pan-seared scallops or fish. Order by the case for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)


Majolini Franciacorta Brut Non-vintage
DOCG Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy $28.95 12.5% alcohol
Made in the style of the very best Champagne, this sparkling wine rings up at less than half the price. A Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meuniere blend, it was kept on its lees 36 months. It’s deep-yellow hued in the glass with leesy, biscuit aromas and washes with an energetic mousse of tiny bubbles. Flavours of shortbread, tangy lemon citrus and pit fruit persist through the zesty, refreshing finish. Order by the case for home or office delivery fromThe Small Winemakers Collection or Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)


Rutherglen Estates ‘Red’ Shiraz – Petit Sirah 2008
Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia $16.45 14.5% alcohol
Rich and robust aromas—currants, anise and savoury-infused red cherry—herald spirited, complex flavours of black berry, tangy red cherry and black plum compote. It’s balanced and medium bodied sporting a lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste. Extremely versatile, it drinks well on its own and with food, especially spicy wings, pasta in tomato sauce, meat-laden pizza. Order by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan