Apr 14, 2012 Vintages Release
Vic wraps up his comments and reviews in South Africa having now finished tasting and spitting his way through +40 wineries and +300 wines from various regions, concluding this issue with Wine of Origin Hemel-en-Aarde a.k.a. Heaven and Earth—an exciting region that’s at the top of their game, especially with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds. There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed that you access via the link below. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in the LCBO—one is in this Vintages Release—SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll most likely learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store. Read more…
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Finding Waldo – six wines sport the icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’, three in the Main Release and three in the South African Feature Click here…
- Susan Selects – it’s 4 stars @ $12.95 and it’s time to try Bonarda - Chakana ‘Yaguareté Collection’ Bonarda 2010 Mendoza, found in the Argentine Feature
- 5-star Pinot Noir – Newton Johnson ‘Family Vineyards’ Pinot Noir 2010 from WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $34.95 Click here…
Feature: Wine of Argentina
Catena Chardonnay 2010
Mendoza $19.95 (918805) 13.5% alcohol
Golden in hue and quality, this toasty, partially oaked Chardonnay offers subtle notes of butterscotch and lovely aromas and flavours of orchard and tropical fruit. Dry, round and medium-full bodied, it’s adroitly balanced, creamy, yet tangy, in texture with a long-lasting finish. A very nice value that will cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)
Chakana ‘Yaguareté Collection’ Bonarda 2010
Mendoza $12.95 (003525) 13.5% alcohol
What a great value and an opportunity to try this lesser-known, very flavourful varietal that’s found its home in Argentina after migrating from Europe. The aromas express sweet, ripe, dark berries, notes of vanilla and spice, the latter two reflecting the well-managed, oak aging. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well balanced with ripe tannin and nice, tangy texture matching the concentrated, dark fruit and fine spices. Enjoy it with burgers or barbequed sausage. (Susan Desjardins)
La Puerta Alta Bonarda 2009
Famatina Valley $14.95 (261990) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s another opportunity to sample Bonarda, this one partially aged 6 months in oak. Dry, medium-full bodied, it appeals with a very smooth texture, great weight on the palate and concentrated aromas and flavours of spice-infused, dark fruit and earth. Well balanced, tangy and persistent on the finish, it’s a good choice for chile con carne. (Susan Desjardins)
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $14.95 (261891) 14.5% alcohol
Recipient of an international award, this inky Cab is medium-full bodied flowing across the palate like satin. It’s concentrated and fruity, displaying subtle hints of herbs and cedar. The balance of supple tannin, fresh acidity and ripe dark berry fruit makes for an appealing taste experience, the lengthy finish pleasantly dry and warm. Enjoy with full-flavoured meats or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $19.95 (135202) 15.0% alcohol
Well paced, integrated and balanced, this is another substantial, inky red, with a fine underlying structure and oodles of flavour. Aromas and flavours reflect black berry and cherry, cedar, spice and nuances of earth and smoke. Dry, full bodied, the concentrated dark fruit and attractive nuances of oak aging rule from start to brooding finish. Fire up the Weber. (Susan Desjardins)
Carinae ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $15.95 (261735) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 12 months in French oak, this deep purple wine offers equally intense, tantalizing aromas—black fruit, plum, smoke, cocoa and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, big and powerful, there’s a core of ripe, concentrated dark fruit merging with dark toast, spice and peppery notes framed by supple tannin and fresh acidity. The intense fruit and toasty notes carry through on the lingering finish. Serve with robust red meat dishes or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)
Norton Privada 2008
Mendoza $24.95 (148155) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a concentrated, flavourful, well-balanced blend with rich aromas of spice-infused dark fruit, toast and cocoa. Dry, substantial and full, focused flavours of black berries and currants are framed by ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Dark toasty notes and sweet exotic spice persist on the warm, mouthwatering finish. Cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Feature: Eco-friendly
La Cappuccina Soave 2011
DOC Soave $13.95 (81489) 13.5% alcohol
Crafted from organically-grown grapes, this pale-gold wine is dry, clean and crisp. Mid-weight, it offers fresh lively aromas and flavours of orchard fruit and lemon-lime citrus. Balanced and zesty, it finishes long and refreshing. Pair it with pasta alle vongole. (Susan Desjardins)
L’Antico di Burchino ‘Vigna Casanova Biodynamic’ Chianti 2010
DOCG Chianti $13.95 (160457) 12.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a nice value, perfumed with floral notes, red fruit and whiffs of sweet spice and vanilla. Dry and mid-weight, it displays the structure and crisp texture of youth, it proffers tangy red fruit flavour and a vibrant, bright finish. A food-friendly wine, it’s a match for meaty lasagna, or could cellar a year or two. (Susan Desjardins)
The Main Release
Fortified Wine: Port
Cálem Colheita ‘Single Vintage’ Tawny Port 1998
DOC Douro $25.95 (264259) 20.0% alcohol
After spending 13 years in barrel, this Port has developed a lovely tawny hue and a fabulous luxurious texture. The nose offers captivating complexity—spice cake, roast nuts, dried fruits, caramel and cocoa. Beautifully balanced, weighty and warm, the palate offers more sweet dried fruits such as dates and figs, nuts and lovely spiced-honey notes. An outstanding value to sip and savour or to pair with an Ontario blue cheese. (Susan Desjardins)
Dessert Wine
Cattail Creek ‘Select Late Harvest’ Merlot 2008 (375 ml)
VQA Four Mile Creek $26.95 (275370) 11.0% alcohol
A pretty salmon pink, this fine dessert wine brings to mind summer, with aromas of strawberry rhubarb compote, fresh strawberries and ripe orchard fruit. These flavours replay on the honeyed palate, measured acidity offering a tangy note through the lengthy, honeyed, yet fresh finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Red Wine
Cave Spring Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (235051) 13.5% alcohol
Principally Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a dash of Cabernet Franc adding complexity, then aged 18 months in oak, this dry, mid-weight red features attractive aromas of spiced red fruit, vanilla and smoke. Balanced with smooth texture, the tangy red fruit replays, vanilla mingling with spice and subtle herbal notes. Finishing fresh and long, it’s a food-friendly Merlot that would pair well with prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)
Okanagan Valley, B.C.: Red Wine
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (126763) 14.0% alcohol
Aged 14 months in French and American oak, this deep, plum-colored Shiraz offers elegant aromas of dark fruit, smoke, earth and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s fresh in texture with delicious dark berries mingling with spice and tangy pepper. Somewhat chewy tannin and lively acidity offer the opportunity for cellaring or for matching to herbed grilled leg of lamb with roast vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)
California: Red Wine
Cyrus Cabernet Blend 2007
Alexander Valley $59.95 (269233) 14.8% alcohol
The core of Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with Cabernet Franc and a dash of Merlot and Petit Verdot then aged 26 months in oak. This is a big, inky, approachable and well-balanced gem that offers rich, sweet dark fruit aromas and flavours as well as notes of dried cherries, cedar and an elusive minty perfume. Dry, full bodied, displaying weight on the palate, yet finely balanced, it leaves soft toasty notes and a whiff of sweet spice on the intensely flavourful finish. Enjoy with a fine rib-eye steak or cellar this ‘First Growth of Sonoma’ long term. (Susan Desjardins)
Oregon: Red Wine
Maysara 3° Pinot Noir 2008
McMinville $24.95 (269167) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, this biodynamic Pinot proffers perfumed floral nuances, attractive earthy notes and aromas of spiced red berries. Dry, mid-weight, it’s vibrant and lively on the palate, awash with bright red fruit—cherry, cranberry and currant—displaying hints of baking spices on the lengthy finish. Pair with pork with a creamy mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Chile: White Wine
Quintay ‘Q’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (276493) 13.0% alcohol
Pale straw-green, this is vibrant, offering consistent aromas and flavours of gooseberry, cut green pepper and pithy citrus. The texture is tangy and fresh, the finish invigorating and long lasting. Choose this to perk up your palate. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
St Hallett Sémillon 2005
Barossa Valley, Australia $19.95 (658005) 12.0% alcohol
Just beginning to show treasured aromatics of toast and honeysuckle, plus kaffir lime leaf, this will handsomely repay a further four or five years careful cellaring. It’s bone dry, medium bodied and nicely textured with ripe pear, nuances of persimmon and a spine of bracing lemon-lime acidity. The crisp refreshing finish showers a spray of white grapefruit and green apple. It’s drinking well now poured with freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared scallops; don’t forget to tuck away a couple, as well. (Vic Harradine)
Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvèdre 2008
Barossa $ 33.95 (236257) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is an intensely aromatic, complex and classic Rhône blend produced from the fruit of 50-120 year-old vines and aged 12 months in French oak. The aromatic invitation is extended with red and black berry, spice and fine herbs, vanilla and notions of smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied, the tangy berry fruit is framed with ripe tannin and fresh acidity interwoven with notes of spice box, herbs and vanilla replaying on the mouth-filling, fruity finish. A beautifully balanced wine to savour with roast lamb garnished with herbes de Provence or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Pillar Box ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Padthaway $19.95 ( 199745) 14.5% alcohol
Showcasing blackberry and cassis, cedar, spice and herbs, this dry, medium-full bodied wine is generous yet balanced with ripe tannin and fine acidity. Attractive dark fruit surges to the fore on the palate, the notes of spice and dried herbs underlying. There’s a fresh, lively texture to the dry tasty finish. A crowd-pleaser that can be enjoyed now or over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)
Shingleback Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (057844) 14.5% alcohol
Owners, the Davey family, continue putting runs on the board after their spectacular Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy win a few years back—a solid producer to follow. There are persistent aromas and flavours throughout—dark berry fruit, dark chocolate and espresso roast while the luscious, balanced and lengthy finish layers on dollops of black licorice and tarry notes. Medium-full bodied with a gloriously smooth texture, this delivers full value. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Babich ‘Fernhill Individual Vineyard’ Viognier 2010
Hawkes Bay $16.95 (269282) 14.0% alcohol
A lovely Viognier offering subtle aromas of stone and tropical fruit with a whiff of sweet spice and floral. Rich, generous fruit flavours provide substantial texture while a mineral character presents. There’s enough appropriate citrus acidity to assure lovely balance. Finishing long and fruity, this is a gutsy wine that’s a great match for lamb curry. (Susan Desjardins)
South Africa: White Wine
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2010
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (931006) $31.95 13.0% alcohol
Focused and pure, the perfumed aromas interweave green apple, ripe pear and nutty notes. There’s a spine of clean, lemon-lime acidity throughout bolstered by minerality, and succulent white peach garnished with cinnamon. It’s complex, structured, mid-full weight with generous texture and a lengthy, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Aficionado or tenderfoot, don’t hesitate; purchase for now and the next 5 years. (Vic Harradine)
Hoopenburg ‘Integer’ Chardonnay 2007
WO Stellenbosch $21.95 (174672) 14.0% alcohol
Registering high on the Wow! scale, this rips from the glass with billowing aromas and a boatload of flavour. Sweet vanilla, wisps of nutty oak and ripe apple and pear aromas provide segue to a gusher of layered, palate-coating flavour that seems to build on the palate—apple pie spice, vanilla and a mélange of peach and pear mingling with lip-smacking citrus acidity. It’s mid weight with a plush mouth feel offering good value. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2009
AOC Alsace $14.95 (983395) 13.5% alcohol
Yet another great value from Alsace, this wine is golden. Lovely floral notes mingle with aromas of stone and orchard fruit and a scent of lemon curd. A clean tangy texture offers a frame for almost honeyed fruit and notes of candied citrus. There’s depth, good balance, and a long tasty finish. The perfect match for mildly spiced Thai food or duck à l’orange. (Susan Desjardins)
France : Red Wine
Brotte Château de Bord ‘La Croix de Frégère’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun $16.95 (263218) 14.5% alcohol
A fine blend of Grenache and Syrah aged 12 months in oak, this multidimensional red offers attractive aromas of bright berry fruit, sweet spice and subtle coffee notes. Dry, medium-full bodied, the smooth round texture pairs with fresh, tangy, spice-infused berry fruit, notes of white pepper and sweet oak. The full-flavoured finish lingers on. A great value, pick up a few bottles to savour now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2009
AOC Vacqueyras $22.95 (38661) 14.5% alcohol
A striking blend of Grenache and Syrah, this entices with aromas of sweet, ripe fruit, spice, herbs and a floral quality. Dry, powerful, weighty and firmly structured, the lively acidity frames clean, lush, berry fruit and attractive notes of red licorice, spice and a whiff of mint that lingers on the extended, dry finish. A wine to savour, pair it with coq au vin or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Hungary: Red Wine
Csányi Pincészet ‘Teleki Villányi’ Cabernet Franc 2008
Hungary $14.95 (74823) 14.0% alcohol
This pleasant easy-going red offers interesting aromas of pepper, smoky toast, underbrush and red and black berries. Dry, mid-weight, with a smooth, mouth-filling texture, it’s awash with ripe berry fruit that’s nicely balanced by ripe tannins and fresh acidity. The peppery tang and additional herbal notes build across the palate, lingering on the finish. Enjoy with simple barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: Red Wine
Torre Quarto ‘Bottaccia’ Uva di Troia 2008
IGT Puglia $15.95 (161737) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a spicy floral hint here, along with delicious berry fruit, earth and sweet herbs. Dry mid-weight, this is a very nicely balanced red with a fine, smooth texture, almost floral flavours and a bushel of dark berry fruit garnished with spice and vanilla. It finishes fresh and fruity. Step out of your comfort zone and try this lesser-known varietal. (Susan Desjardins)
Ruffino ‘Lodola Nuova’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008
DOCG Montepulciano $23.95 (332411) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 18 months in oak, this fine Sangiovese-based wine features attractive appealing aromas—red fruit, autumnal notes, spice and cocoa. Dry, medium bodied and structured, the fresh texture pairs with tangy, red cherry/berry fruit and notes of cocoa and subtle spice. Firm yet balanced, dry and long on the finish, it’ll cellar medium term or may be paired with pici with a meat sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Luigi Righetti ‘Campolieti’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (695890) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this delectable well-balanced blend offers aromas of dried cherries, ripe dark berries, spiced chocolate and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s a subtle framing of the luscious spice-infused fruit with ripe tannin and lively acidity. Vanilla and chocolate replay and linger on the finish. Just delicious and great value. (Susan Desjardins)
Tedeschi Corasco 2008
IGT Rosso delle Venezie $15.95 (216440) 14.0% alcohol
This deep ruby blend of briefly dried Corvina with Refosco and Raboso offers intriguing aromas of flowers, red fruit, savoury olive, spice and pepper. Dry, medium bodied, richly textured, consistently fruity and flavourful, the wine is characterized by fine tannin, lively acidity and some elusive earthy notes. Complex and attention-grabbing, this is great value. Try it with steak fajitas—you may need more than one bottle! (Susan Desjardins)
Spain: Red Wine
Rotllán Torra Crianza 2007
DOC Priorat $17.95 (267989) 14.7% alcohol
A blend of Garnacha, Mazuelo (Carignan) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine spent 12 months in French and American oak, the aromas entice—cocoa, cedar, exotic spice and vanilla complementing sweet, ripe fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s quite structured with perceptible tannin and fresh acidity underpinning red and black berry fruit. Sweet spices and peppery warmth linger on the dry finish. Pair it with rabbit stew or chicken enchiladas. (Susan Desjardins)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (430546) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of grass and gooseberries flow freely from this gorgeously textured gem. It washes over the palate with waves of flavour—melon, ripe pear and zesty lemon citrus. Refreshing and clean from the twist of the top to the lip-smacking, last drop, this over-delivers in the price-quality ratio; pick up a few for when friends drop in or when you’re pan-searing fish or prawns. (Vic Harradine)
James Oakley ‘Tic Tok’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Pemberton, Frankland River and Mudgee, Australia $14.95 (187039) 12.5% alcohol
Apple, pear and savoury herb aromas on the nose presage a lively wash of green apple, gooseberry and tangy citrus on the palate. It’s medium bodied with nice texture and balance throughout. It finishes clean and crisp with a shower of white grapefruit on the lip-smacking aftertaste. Well paced, well priced and well… darn good. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run ‘Sullyzwicker’ White 2011
VQA Ontario $14.95 (214478) 11.5% alcohol
Yellow green, dry, mid-weight, this clean fresh blend—principally Riesling with a chorus of other white varietals—offers appealing floral, orchard fruit and citrus aromas. Zesty flavours of crisp apple, lemon-lime and the sweet tang of passionfruit are matched by a vibrant texture and a slightly pithy mid-length finish. Serve with seafood at casual gatherings. (Susan Desjardins)
Rosehall Run ‘Sullyzwicker’ Red 2011
VQA Ontario $14.95 (114686) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent crimson, this quaffable blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Zweigelt wins you over with its pretty candy apple, cherry/berry and slightly earthy aromas. Dry, on the light end of mid-weight, the smooth texture carries juicy cherry/berry flavours and hints of spice. Nicely balanced with a tangy finish, it’s a good choice for pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)
The People’s Pinot Grigio 2010
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $16.95 (240978) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of anise and orchard fruit waft easily from this tangy, nicely balanced Pinot Gris. There’s good mouth feel, smooth texture and a mouth-watering, warm finish of lemon zest and grapefruit. Good sipped on its own, it pours well with pan-seared fish or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)
The People’s Pinot Noir 2010
Central Otago, New Zealand $16.95 (234526) 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, spice and cherry on the nose, it’s medium bodied delivering a persistent river of red fruit flavour—cranberry, currant and cherry. There’s good acidity and a solid underpinning of smooth, ripe tannin. It finishes balanced and fruit-laden. Good to go now with pizza, burgers or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan