Vintages Release June 25, 2005

Reading this month's catalog is a challenge. This first release (June 25) is organized by variety, then by country. For your convenience, our reviews follow the sequence in the catalog.

Sauvignon Blanc

***1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong 'Charlotte's Home' Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Sonoma County $17.95 (255968)

A tantalizing nose of melons, pineapple with slight hint of grass is followed by a medium-bodied warm climate SB that offers more tropical fruit on the palate. The nice tangy finish (sweet and sour, peaches and lemons) has a slight bitterness that some will admire. Try with seafood finished a white cream sauce. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Nick Faldo "Selection" Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Coonawarra, South Australia $17.95 (590455)

Yet another golfer sticks his name on a wine label. What's with it with them? Well, there's no wood in this number. It's as lean and green a Sauvignon Blanc as you're likely to find, full of herbaceous, gooseberry and tart green apples, with bracing acidity. It's pretty attractive, even more so when paired with the right food. For me, that means briny oysters. (RP)

Riesling

***** drink or cellar
Trimbach Riesling 2002
AOC Alsace $19.95 (734517)

This is typical Trimbach (one of the world's premier Riesling producers) with laser-like focus on flavours, balance and acidity. Nothing flabby here and it won't gain many 'Parker points', but finds great favour with true lovers of this grape. With mineral and slate aromatics, it offers citrus, peach/nectarine flavours and bracing acidity that brings you back for more. Superb alone and well matched to seared scallops drizzled with fresh lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
St. Urbans-Hof Riesling 2003
QbA, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Estate Btld. $15.95 (995746)

An arguably 'off-putting nose' of burnt toast and damp leaves leads to a glorious, exotic mélange of tropical fruit flavours (white peaches, limes, kiwi fruit) that beguile the taster. This full-bodied, beautifully balanced white is concentrated and offers a long silky finish of fruit and cleansing acidity. The tangy 'off-dry' taste begs for spicy Asian cuisine or Indian Butter Chicken. (VH)

Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio

****1/2 drink now
Sandhill Pinot Gris 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley, BC $15.95 (626002)

This is a beautifully-balanced Pinot Gris, combining a crisp, food-friendly texture with well-developed fruit flavours. Look for notes of peach, ripe pear and soft, sweet spices, good acidity, and a medium finish. It's just well made and an excellent match for shrimp sautéed in ginger and garlic. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Clos Sainte-Apolline "Bollenberg" Tokay Pinot Gris 2002
AOC Alsace, France $19.95 (606368)

Rich, elegant, stylish, classy and classic. I loved this Pinot Gris. It's the sort of wine that gives France a good name. It manages to combine dryness with plush fruit flavours, almost perfect poise in its balance, and a long, satisfying finish. Pair it with seared spicy scallops or rich fowl. (RP)

"The Unusual Suspects" (Viognier, Roussanne, Muscat, Malvasia Fino)

**** drink or cellar
D'Arenberg "The Money Spider" Roussanne 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (656710)

A quite delicious wine that features soft stone fruit flavours (peach, nectarine) that ride the border between austere stone and sweet flesh. They're complex and have you coming and going as you attempt to pin the flavours down. They're wrapped around a core of good food-friendly acidity that plays out as a good, clean finish with the merest bitter click. Put this together with lightly-spiced seafood. (RP)

**** drink now
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Muscat 2003
AOC Alsace, France $17.95 (930362)

A well-made Muscat with all the usual aromatics and rich fruit flavours. Look for star fruit, persimmon, peach, and orange zest, but also a hint of pungent geranium stem that seems to integrate attractively into the mix. It's all very interesting and a fine partner to spicy (not hot) Thai dishes. (RP)

***** drink now
Yalumba 'Y Series' Viognier 2004
South Australia $13.95 (624502)

Begins with a lifted floral nose that is accompanied by lanolin and honey notes that open the door to a glorious palate of apples, Damson plums and white pepper. Luxurious in texture (creamy and well structured) and long in the finish (more honey and peaches), this is unique and extremely well priced. Savour on its own or match to roast chicken drizzled with an orange sauce. (VH)


***1/2 drink now
Monte Schiavo Coste del Monte 2004
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Italy $13.95 (652495)

The Verdicchio grape, signature of Le Marche region on Italy's Adriatic coast, produces some lovely fish and seafood wine. In fact, the region has an annual competition for the best seafood wines in Italy. Verdicchio is one of my favourites for grilled white fish during the summer, and this one has all the delicate fruit, balanced with crisp acidity, that I want in a straightforward wine. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Conundrum Wines 'Conundrum' 2003
California $33.95 (929992)

The Muscat-like nose of lychee and rosewater is intriguing as it provides a segue into a full-bodied and well-balanced luscious white. A cornucopia of pit fruit and citrus flavours melds into the lengthy finish of green apples and pears over a firm spine of acidity. Wisely sealed under screw cap to ensure its freshness, this enhances a pork roast served with spiced apples. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Jean Perrier Abymes 'Cuvée Gastronomie' 2004
AOC Vin de Savoie $12.95 (599944)

Opening with a floral and spicy (cloves and cinnamon) nose, this light-bodied (11.5% alcohol) summer sipper delivers delicate flavours of pears and peaches. Not a bomb blast, but beautifully textured and balanced flavours that are complimented by the tangy acidity of the local grape, Jacquère, that holds it all together. Well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Château Laulerie Montravel Sec 2003
AOC Montravel, France $11.95 (680595)

Made from Semillon, this offers an attractive combination of lemon-lime and sweeter, spicier fruit, with a core of clean acidity. The result is crispness that will complement food like grilled seafood and fish, but enough sweet fruit to allow you to enjoy it without food, too. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Inama Soave Classico Superiore 2003
DOC Soave Classico Superiore, Italy $18.95 (949768)

Many bland Soaves have given the region a poor reputation, and if you've suffered through bottles of the watery stuff, try this. It has good, focused fruit (pear, peach) with sweet accents, and some earthy notes. The acidity is nicely balanced, and this is a wine that goes well with garlicky, grilled pork chops. (RP)

**** drink now
Marqués de Cáceres Blanco Seco 2004
DOC Rioja, Spain $10.95 (103895)

We don't see that many white Riojas, and this is great value. It's a well-balanced combination of floral, white fruit (nectarine, pear) and citrus flavours with a clean, crisp mouthfeel. Try it with grilled whole white fish, like trout, sprinkled with sautéed slivered almonds. (RP)

Sherry

**** drink now
Williams & Humbert "Walnut Brown" Oloroso
DO Jerez $10.95 (437467)

Sherry is such an under-appreciated drink. Buy a bottle of this (it's only $10.95, for God's sake!), chill it slightly, then sip it in the afternoon by itself, with roasted nuts, or with an almond cake dessert. The dried fruit and raisined flavours are balanced by the acidity when it's served cool, and the toasted almond aftertaste is just compelling. (RP)

**** drink now
Bernard-Massard Cuvée de l'Ecusson Brut
Luxembourg $18.95 (970970)

Luxembourg has the perhaps dubious reputation of having Europe's highest per capita consumption of alcohol. It has nothing to do with their wine production, which is small (the country itself is not much larger than a big vineyard in Languedoc), but they do make very good sparkling wine. This one is quite delicious, with solid fruit, good acidity, and a fine mousse. It's an excellent sipping sparkler that also goes very well with dishes from spicy seafood or mixed appetizers. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95/375ml (432930)

Late Harvest wines are often a better buy than icewines. Not only are they a lot cheaper, but they offer luscious sweet character that's often easier to pair with food. This is an excellent example, with rich tropical fruit, medium viscosity, and good balance that makes you want more than a sip. It goes well with mild blue cheeses and not-too-sweet fruit desserts. (RP)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Dry Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (395897)

A tasting note in the Vintages catalog describes the colour of this rosé as "pale ruby," which won't prepare you for the vibrant, electric pink that is the wine's trademark colour. Wear your sunglasses when you serve it outside in the sun. The flavours are pretty vibrant too, all cranberry, strawberry and cherry but, as the label says, it's dry all the way through. This is a reliable perennial and a great match for summer salads (grilled chicken, spicy beef) on the summer lunch table. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve (V) 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (545004)

Toast, smoke and (American) oak blast from the glass followed by peaches and pears. This medium-bodied offering has lovely tropical fruit (from an exceptionally long and warm fall) flavours of melon and pineapple, is well balanced and firm. The finish tails off into citrussy notes making this a candidate for grilled fresh seafood. (VH)

British Columbia: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nk'Mip Cellars Merlot 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley $16.95 (626416)

Nk'Mip wines are impressive across the board, and if you haven't tried one yet, this is a great value to start with. It has layers of concentrated dark fruit, with dried cherry and chocolate notes, and firm tannins. Very dry in texture, and medium bodied, it's a natural for well-seasoned grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sandhill Cabernet Merlot 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (541144)

This has all the complexity that you want, and at a very good price. Look for an array of dark fruit and berry flavours with accents of smoke, cedar, spice and pepper, all bound in a classy package that's well-balanced, has firm, ripe tannins, and ends well. This demands flavourful food, like a rare to medium-rare steak and sautéed wild mushrooms. (RP)

United States: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Au Bon Climat "La Bauge-au-Dessous" Pinot Noir 2001
Santa Maria Valley, California $44.95 (677534)

A beautiful Pinot Noir that delivers generously across the board. The fruit is rich, elegant and focused, with sweet and sour cherry with earthy and spicy notes, a fine-grained texture, excellent balance, and long finish. Quite delicious and ready for drinking now and over the next five years. Pair it with a well-seasoned grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

***** cellar
Greg Norman Estates Shiraz Reserve 2000
Padthaway, South Australia $49.95 (585828)

Tees off with a black ripe cherry, peppery and oaky nose then comes to the fore with densely concentrated flavours of tar, licorice and rich dark chocolate. Has beautiful balance with gobs of fruit, grainy tannins and firm acidity. The finish is medium in length and huge in flavour with more cherries and chocolate. Pair this with black pepper encrusted rack of lamb on the 19th hole. Cellar and drink 2008 - 2015. (VH)

France: Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Château Fonroque 2001
AC St-Émilion $59.95 (962068)

Aromatics of toasted oak and plums abound in the lifted nose of this right bank blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Lovely flavours, especially the mid-palate, of cherries, prunes and figs over perceptible tannins and bracing acidity greet the taster. Offers a nice clean finish of cherries and cleansing acidity. Wait two more years then drink to 2010. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
René Bouvier Marsannay Longerois 2002
AOC Marsannay, Burgundy $44.95 (586859)

Too little known, Marsannay (at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits), produces some excellent wines, and this is one of them. It has concentrated fruit right through the palate (black cherry, plum, black berry) with some gamey, smoky notes. The acidity is nicely pitched, and the tannins are ripe and still very firm. This is a Pinot that will stand up to big food, like roasted or grilled red game meat. (RP)

**** drink now
Domaine Terres Blanches Rouge 2001
AOC Les Baux de Provence, Provence $18.95 (982587)

Provence is still best-known for its rosés, but the reds are increasing their profile rapidly. This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre has loads of rich, layered spicy fruit, and a soft texture with an attractive slight tangy bite. Try it with a gourmet burger that includes sliced beets. (RP)

Italy: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tedeschi 'Capitel San Rocco' Ripasso 2001
IGT Rosso del Veronese $18.95 (719294)

Hand picked and whole bunch pressed from ripe fruit, then augmented by additional wine marc from Amarone, make this a whopper of a wine. Burnt cherry wood and crushed currants waft from the glass of this deeply-coloured full- to medium-bodied beauty. Sour cherries, tar, raisins and bitter chocolate form the core of the flavours, while the finish is monumental (fruit-driven with cleansing acidity). Drink now to 2010. (VH)

Portugal: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de Roriz "Prazo de Roriz" Douro Tinto 2003
DOC Douro $19.95 (590547)

Made by a notable Port producer, from the grape varieties used for Port, you might think of this as Port without the spirits, but it's certainly not lacking spirit. It's dense and flavourful, with fresh and dried fruit flavours and lashings of spice, and gripping tannins. A really delicious, big-bodied red that calls for a well-seasoned, rare steak. (RP)

Spain: Rosé Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Bajoz Rosado 2004
DO Toro $10.95 (680934)

This is terrific value. If you're like me, you're going to need a lot of rosé during the summer, and you should make sure you have some of this. It's got remarkably intense flavours for a rosé, with a whole range of berries and cherry notes. It's dry, well-balanced and can be sipped alone or drunk with dishes as varied as steak and cajun chicken salad. (RP)


Vintages Release July 19 2005

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fox Creek "Vixen" Sparkling Shiraz-Cabernet Franc
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (522268)

This wine withstands all the derision in the tasting room about sparkling Shiraz. I happen to like the stuff, and this is an interesting variation, in that it has Cabernet Franc as a component. The fruit flavours of the varieties are all there, but the texture is lightened and made edgier by the bubbles. It's refreshing and a bit austere at the same time, and makes a great partner for spicy barbecued red meat dishes. Ignore any uninformed sneers around you. (RP)

United States: White Table Wine

***** drink now
Artesa Chardonnay 2001
Carneros, Napa Valley $31.95 (657585)

Renowned wine maker Don Van Staaveren (formerly wine master at Chateau St. Jean) has his stamp all over this. Quince, cloves, marmalade and toasted oak aromatics draw the taster in to sample this medium to full-bodied treasure. Its creamy texture matches well with tropical fruit (guava and orange rind) flavours that have been deftly balanced with an underpinning of citrus notes. The finish is warm (14.3% alcohol) and lingering. Try with pork loin stuffed with dried apricots and mint. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay
Santa Barbara County $29.95 (983114)

An involved nose of baked apple, nutmeg and nectarine opens the door to a mélange of delicate flavours that are predominantly white peach, mint and citrus. Well balanced, delicately nuanced and creamily textured, as one would expect from this meticulous, (hand picked, whole bunch pressed, barrel (no new oak) fermented, unfiltered) iconic Santa Barbara winery. Elegant, rather than overpowering, drink now to 2008. (VH)

**** drink now
Kendall-Jackson "Vintner's Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc 2003
California $17.95 (459552)

A well-made Sauvignon Blanc with light but brisk acidity that balances very well with a core of tropical and apricot fruit. It finishes with clean citrus notes, and matches well with simple seafood or grilled white fish. (RP)

United States: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
EXP Syrah 2002
Dunningan Hills (Prod. & Btld by RH Phillips) $21.95 (594325)

The nose is quite muted (strawberries and pepper), but it really delivers on the palate with spicy red currants, red licorice and plums. Everything is in perfect balance from the silky smooth tannins and balancing acidity to the pleasant finish of plums and sour cherries. Try this with grilled rare filet mignon slathered with blue cheese. From a superior producer at a great price. (VH)


****1/2 drink or cellar
Artesa Merlot 2000
Sonoma Valley $31.95 (658534)

An unusual and exotic nose of sandalwood, stewed raspberries and forest floor. This tangy offering is unique and well worth a try with its earthy components that are well integrated with full black cherry flavour. The perceptible tannins will tame with age and the finish is lingering and perfectly balanced with red currants and soft acidity. Drink 2007 - 2012 with veal shanks. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Gallo of Sonoma "Two Rock Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2003
Sonoma Coast, California $39.95 (677591)

A really lovely Pinot Noir from a newly-designated Gallo vineyard. Look for a core of rich, sweet fruit nicely framed by notes of spicy, savoury cherry. It's well balanced, has firm but already manageable tannins, and pairs extremely well with gamey meat, like duck or lamb. (RP)

***** drink or cellar *****
Kendall-Jackson 'Vintner's Reserve' Pinot Noir 2003
California $21.95 (657940)

Cigar box, cassis and spiced black plum aromatics are the portend to this wine that we both loved. The involved and rich flavour profile provides currants, raspberries and crushed mint while the texture is creamy and plush. Expect a powerfully long and luxurious finish of licorice and plums. Cleans up with good acidity. Put it all together and you have an age-worthy (now to 2012) Pinot at an outstanding price. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
California $22.95 (738823)

A simply delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that will drink beautifully with fairly rich red meat dishes. It has concentrated dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) with spicy and savoury notes, a rich, layered texture, and great balance. The tannins are firm and drying, but manageable now with rare meat. Liberty School can clearly teach a few other producers a thing or two. (RP)

Argentina: White Table Wine

**** drink now
Alamos Chardonnay 2004
Mendoza $13.95 (925743)

A great value Chardonnay, with beautifully-pitched fruit (peach, pear, tropical fruit), good complexity, and excellent balance. The texture is soft and generous, and this will pair perfectly with many dishes, including grilled white fish and grilled pork. (RP)

Argentina: Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Alta Vista Malbec 'Premium' 2002
Mendoza $13.95 (677443)

Black currants and cranberries gush from the nose of this classy red. Malbec is the grape that will vault Argentina to prominence and this is a worthy effort. Rich and concentrated plums and cherries shower the palate and it cleans up nicely on the finish with great balance and forward fruit flavours. Exceptional value, this cellar dweller (drink 2007 - 2012) deserves a try and, if you like it, a multiple bottle purchase. (VH)

Chile: Red Table Wine

***** drink now *****
Viña Montgras Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Reserva 2003
Colchagua Valley $11.95 (976787)

This is really amazing value. It's a really delicious blend with quite intense fruit flavours (dark plum, cherry, berries), with spicy and pepper notes. There's a hint of tanginess in the texture, the balance is good, and the tannins are ripe and firm. Open it as you light the barbecue, and pour it as the steak or burgers start sizzling. (RP)

Australia: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Beckett's Flat 'Belizar's' Verdelho 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (585851)

Madeira-lovers are more familiar with this Portuguese grape, but it is now used to produce surprisingly good dry table whites and this is one. Herbaceous and citrus notes on the nose lead into a medium-bodied (very light in colour) white of good complexity and character. Kiwi fruit and minty flavours blend into the citrus tangy finish that leaves you wanting more. The ABC crowd will love it with garlic scampi, hot off the grill. (VH)

**** drink now
Yalumba 'Oxford Landing' Chardonnay 2003
South Australia $11.95 (283671)

Secured by screw cap to ensure the lively aromas and flavours that were present when the wine was made will be there for you when you open. Lifted aromatics of tropical fruit and spice (pineapple, honeydew melon and nutmeg) are followed more of the same on the creamy smooth palate. Nicely balanced, this is great value for summer quaffing. (VH)

Australia: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beckett's Flat Shiraz 2001
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (585869)

Primarily a boutique winery (only 14 Ha), it's nice to see them here. The 12 year old vines and maritime climate show well with rich, black fruit without any jammy overblown characteristics. Spiced currants and cherries drift from the glass whilst the palate displays perceptible ripe tannins, more cherries, some plum, great balancing acidity and a pleasing finish. Deserving of a purchase plus a "Good on ya' Mate!" (VH)

New Zealand: White Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (606848)

From one of the world's top sites for Sauvignon Blanc, this oozes typicity and terroir. The astoundingly herbaceous (nettles and bell pepper) nose has undertones of passion fruit and gooseberry that are more prominently displayed on the rich, fruity (kiwi and passion fruit) and full textured (13.5% alcohol) palate. It is taut and clean and may benefit from short-term ageing of 6 months to a year. Try with chèvre on the deck. (VH)

South Africa: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Zevenwacht Sauvignon Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 (651463)

It's amazing how some South African regions can turn out both warm and cool climate wines with such success. This is a lean, almost austere Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours in the green zone: grass, green apple, and gooseberry. The acidity is zesty and clean, and it balances out the fruit perfectly. A great partner to a plate of fresh oysters on the shell or to a goat cheese and tomato tart. (RP)

France: White Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Domaine des Deux Roches "Rives de Longsault" Saint-Véran 2003
AOC Saint-Véran $25.95 (594853)

To my mind, Saint-Véran makes some of Burgundy's most attractive whites, but it doesn't have nearly the profile of some appellations. This is from the hot 2003 vintage, and it's packed with sweet fruit flavours of peach, tropical fruit, and red apple, with caramel and vanilla notes. It's beautifully balanced and makes a fine partner to grilled salmon or pork chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Paul & Mallory Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 2003
AOC Mâcon-Uchizy $16.95 (733956)

Lanolin and baked apple pie are the intriguing aromatics emanating from this atypical white. There is a core of sweet peach, almonds and quince flavours that captures your interest then the lengthy finish of full throttle pineapple, lemon and nectarines simply stuns your senses. This would be magic with roast chicken, dried fruit dressing and herbed roasted potatoes. The relative anonymity of the region keeps it affordable. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Lafage Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $17.95 (680611)

Another great value white from the Midi. Smoke and oak dominate the nose, but this full-bodied and richly textured wine is not bereft of character. Rich (apple and pear fruit) and tangy (lemon) on the palate, it finishes with great verve and acidity. It begs for mussels steamed in a white wine and freshly-squeezed lemon mixture. (VH)

France: Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Château de Fonbel 2000
AOC Saint Émilion Grand Cru (Famille Vauthier, Prop.) $42.95 (655100)

Owner Alain Vauthier also owns the famous Château Ausone and the 20-year-old vines used for this predominantly Merlot wine are just a stone's throw away. The opaque, inky appearance in the glass and rustic, edgy nose of currants and tar are a fair indicator of what is to follow. The flavours are rich, concentrated cassis and black plums wrapped in grainy tannins and well balanced acidity. More of the same on the finish suggests this is a keeper (drink 2007 - 2012) and that it will get even better. It is very good now. (VH)

France: Rosé Table Wine

**** drink now
Presqu'île de St-Tropez "Carte Noire" Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes de Provence $12.95 (319384)

Every now and again, a wine rises from that vast lake of Provençal rosé, and this is one. Don't be put off by the packaging, which seems cleverly designed to convince you that this is cheap and nasty. Instead, what you have is a quite delicious wine, with concentrated fruit flavours, good dry texture, and excellent balance. Drink it with summer salads (with aged prosciutto) or just sip it with friends. (RP)

**** drink now
Château Bellevue la Forêt Rose 2004
AOC Côtes du Frontonnais $12.95 (219840)

With a nose resplendent with freshly picked strawberries and cranberries you'd expect a lighter-styled wine with tang, and that is exactly what it delivers, that and more. An uncomplicated palate of fresh acidity in a slightly 'off dry' style manages that sweet and sour tangy aftertaste that is so refreshing on a hot summer's day. Serve well chilled. (VH)


Germany: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Markus Molitor Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2000
QmP Mosel Saar Ruwer $19.95 (958140)

The fruit flavours in this off-dry beauty are layered and complex. You start with a classic petrol nose, then move to the tropical zone-peach, rich apple and pear, with some mineral and citrus notes for good measure. All this is wrapped around a spine of good acidity that keeps the sweetness in check. Medium-bodied at most, it's good for pre-dinner sipping, but pairs well with rich, spicy chicken and seafood dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Louis Guntrum Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2002
QmP Rheinhessen, Niersteiner Heiligenbaum (MD) $15.95 (651976)

Unusual to see a Kabinett as Halbtrocken, but these folks have 11 generations of Guntrum's that have worked this land, so who is to argue? A silver medal winner that comes up slate, mineral and passion fruit on the nose. Unctuous flavours of ripe pears and apples present on this medium-bodied sweet and sour beauty that finishes back on the lean side of the fruit, but is so gorgeously tangy you hardly notice. The perfect foil to spicy Asian or hot curried cuisine. Price to quality ratio is quite attractive. (VH).


Italy: White Table Wine

**** drink now
Baglio Hopps Sulana 2003
IGT Sicily $18.95 (652776)

A blend of Inzolia (a white grape indigenous to Sicily) and Chardonnay (which is not), this has a intriguing range of flavours, including tropical fruit, melon, pear, and peach, together with some earthy and mineral notes. The acidity is zesty and clean, and it complements the fruit excellently. This is a versatile white for food. Try it with a seafood risotto or paella. (RP)

Italy: Red Table Wine

**** drink now
Masseria Monaci 'Eloquenzia' 2000
DOC Copertino $12.95 (732610)

A forward nose of spicy plums, and crushed currants is a lovely door opener for the medium-bodied plush palate of sour cherries and black licorice that walks in. Round and ripe, the finish is silky and fruity (cherries and raspberries). Great value and worth stocking up. Try with lasagna and garlic bread by candlelight with a friend. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cantele 'Amativo' 2001
IGT Salento $28.95 (650952)

This Puglia region red is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negro Amaro. A Zinfandel-like red (Zinfandel and Primitivo are different clones of the same grape, both descended from the Croatian variety Crljenak) that is both powerful and classy. Ripe black cherries, tar and black currants blast from the glass as the palate delivers more of the same with a full bore attack of tannic mocha and cherries and a lengthy finish of more of the same. This will separate the women from the girls. Drink now, if you dare, to 2015. (VH)

***** cellar *****
Antinori Solaia 2001
IGT Toscana $169.95 (987586)

A bruiser of a Super Tuscan that should age into a classic beauty in the realm of a first growth Bordeaux. The nose is forward and redolent of brioche, cassis, currants, coffee and tar. Flavours (coffee, cherries and mocha) are forward and wrapped in a tight tannin structure. The finish is till grainy, but has the fruit and acid backbone to go the distance. Compared to U.S. prices, this is good value. Drink 2010 - 2020. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Coltibuono "Cancelli" Sangiovese di Toscana 2003
IGT Sangiovese di Toscana $14.95 920173

What a great wine at this price! It has complex flavours of fresh and dried red fruit, the acidity you want from Sangiovese, and quite firm tannins. At this price, it's perfect for the barbecue circuit, but when the rain drives you inside, you can pair it with tomato-based pasta or pizza and it'll remind you of sunny days to come. (RP)

Portugal: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande 2000
DOC Douro (A.A. Ferreira) $16.95 (559526)

Vanilla, coffee and strawberry notes form a lifted nose that delivers on the palate, as well. It is rich, concentrated and well balanced. Black cherries, raisins and tar form the flavours while the finish is long and luxurious. If you haven't cottoned on to the surge in quality of Portuguese wines, try this with grilled venison steak or leg of lamb. (VH)

***** drink or cellar *****
J.M. Fonseca Quinta de Camarate 2001
Vinho Regional Terras do Sado $13.95 (357962)

Fonseca is an exceptional producer of fine wines and this fits in. Roasted nuts, earthy notes and ripe Bing cherries round out the aromatics while the mouth feel is round and plush. Has a lovely sweet mid palate of ripe black fruit that is framed by clean acidity and good grip. Offers a lot for the price tag, worth stocking up. Drink now to 2009 with grilled rare strip loin or rack of lamb. (VH)

Spain: Red Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Lurton "Barricas" "El Albar" 2001
DO Toro $23.95 (725762)

Made 100% from Tempranillo, this is a stunning wine at a very good price. It's saturated with intense fruit flavours accented with spicy, tarry notes. The tannins are very firm, and you should either put this away for three or four years or drink it with rare beef to handle the tannins. Decanting it, as the catalog suggests, will also help. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Raimat Merlot 2000
DO Costers del Segre $15.95 (590406)

A classy red from a little-known region in the Northeast corner of Spain, just west of Barcelona and Penedès, that delivers great value. Aromatics of crushed strawberries and spiced cherries blossom into a full-bodied wine of considerable weight and texture. Lots of plummy flavours wrapped in a sweet swath of blackberries, beetroot and currants that finishes off fruity and well balanced. Only the unknown region holds back the price from this premium producer and that's a big bonus for you. Drink now to 2010. (VH)

Cheers, Rod and Vic