June 11, 2005 Release

Loire Valley

**** drink or cellar
Château la Touche Sur Lie, Vielles Vignes 2002
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (L. Boullault & Fils) $14.95 (655068)

You are greeted with a sensationally lifted nose of floral, toasty, mineral notes that blend their way into a steely mouth full of citrus and green apples. The acidity is bracing, but not monochromatic as there is enough fruit (white peaches and apples) and a lovely medium-bodied mouth feel to allow it perfect balance. Try with seared Tuna and grilled chèvre and greens. Good now to 2008. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Château de Montguéret Blanc 'Le Petit Saint-Louis' 2004
AOC Anjou (Mme. D. Lacheteau Prop.-Récolt.) $13.95 (716498)

The seductive aroma of fresh crushed mint, honeysuckle and lemons draw the taster in. Lots going on here with sweet apples, and melons on the palate plus a tangy, off dry finish that is barely short of monumental. This wine would be a crowd pleaser served chilled as a welcoming wine or a clear winner paired with Szechwan dishes or other spicy foods. The price to quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine des Gominets Pouilly-Fumé 2003
AOC Pouilly-Fumé $26.95 (655548)

A Sauvignon Blanc by any other name? Good typicity for the region with citrus and mineral notes on the nose and a serious spine of minerally acidity. The flavours include green apples, pears and lemon juice. That profile would have you believe this would pair well with fresh grilled seafood drizzled with, what else, fresh squeezed lemon juice. (VH)


****1/2 drink now
Paul Buisse 2003
AOC Chinon $16.95 (995977)

Blueberries and lilacs whoosh from the glass of this medium-bodied Cabernet Franc. It has good grip, gobs of sweet ripe black raspberry fruit and a pleasing, lengthy and luxurious finish. No hint of greenness in this exceptionally well balanced beauty. Roasted pork loin marinated in Asian spices would be the perfect foil. Exceptionally well priced, stock up. (VH)

California - White Table Wine

**** drink now
Trinchero 'Family Selection' Chardonnay 2003
California $17.95 (550541)

From the folks that made "White Zin" famous, this well balanced and well made Chard deserves attention. The tropical fruit (pineapple, musk melon) nose opens the door wide for a mélange of ripe fruit flavours that include, fresh lemons, apples and apricots. A clean finish, that is also silky smooth, wraps this up into a very nice package. (VH)

California - Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Trinchero 'Family Selection' Merlot 2003
Napa Valley $16.95 (550566)

From the smoky plummy nose to the lengthy satin finish, this wine exudes class and structure. The fruit forward flavours deliver more black plums layered over a core of perceptible tannins, beautifully balanced acidity and ripe black fruit of indeterminable origin. This would pair just beautifully with roast beef or roast pork. Very well priced. Drink now to 2008. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Silver Stone Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Napa Valley $47.95 (592915)

This is the real deal for California Cab lovers. A lifted nose of cassis, oak and cedar swings wide the door for a chewy (ripe tannins) mouthful consisting of spoonfuls of ripe black cherries, black licorice and tar. The finish is rich and complex. Costs more than the bus, but this Cab is worth the fare. Drink now to 2012 with grilled rare strip loin. (VH)

Oregon

**** drink or cellar
Foris Pinot Noir 2001
Rogue Valley $24.95 (937128)

A perfumed nose of spicy sour cherries and earthy notes is the perfect segue to this medium-bodied beauty. Lots of raspberry and spice flavours with enough guts to match up with some serious cuisine. The finish is surprisingly long and is balanced off well with red fruit and acidity. Good now to 2009. Try with smoked Muscovy duck breasts and grilled goats cheese drizzled with a cranberry coulis. (VH)

Chile - White Table Wine

***** drink now
Caliterra Chardonnay Reserva 2003
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (404178)

A toasty, oaky, tropical fruit-laced white that will win some tasters just from the gorgeous topical fruit aromas. Whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented, batonage (lees stirring), ripe fruit and a (relatively) cool climate coalesce to give this a creamy textured full-bodied mouth feel. Tropical fruit (ripe pineapple, honeydew melon and nectarines) flavours abound on the palate and the luxurious finish. With summer finally here, a good one to stock up on. A winecurrent exceptional value pick. (VH)

Australia - White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Hope Estate Chardonnay 2003
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $13.95 (651331)

Coconut and green apple waft from this subtle and leesy nose. It is rich and complex, but not overpowering as this medium-bodied white leans toward elegance and style. Displays a nutty green apple flavour with a delicate touch of lemon on the palate and finish. This is great value and will appeal to even the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) crowd. (VH)

New Zealand - White Table Wine

**** drink now
Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (616243)

Grassy and herbaceous on the nose, this medium-bodied, gorgeously balanced white delivers an all counts. The Wairau Valley, one of the sites from which these grapes are sourced, is quite warm and this plays out in the hints of tropical fruit and lovely texture. It cleans up beautifully with a lacing of citrus that begs for smoked salmon and cream cheese. Wisely secured under screw cap to ensure freshness (VH)

South Africa - Red Table Wine

**** drink now
Allesverloren Tinta Barocca 2003
WO Swartland $16.95 (906750)

Think of this as Merlot with attitude. A muted nose of ripe cherries and plums sets up this full-bodied, but silkily-textured red. Lots of oomph in the richly concentrated fruit flavours (plums and currants) that gets balanced off with just the right amount of acidity and ripe tannins. The finish is quite memorable and delicious. Try this with Boboti, a SA dish of minced meat and curry in pastry. (VH)

Austria - White Table Wine

**** drink now
Winzer Krems 'Kellermeister Privat' Grüner Veltliner Kabinett Trocken 2003
Kremser Goldberg, Kremstal $14.95 (738617)

Austria's largest producer has come up with yet another winner. A delicate nose of pepper, nectarines and spring flowers is a lovely entry to this well-priced white. The white peach and pear flavours are mouth filling and delicious. The finish is tangy and well balanced. A great food wine that would match with grilled sea food or Pasta Marinara. If it was Australia, rather than Austria, you'd be happy to pay $19.95, so take a chance on a bottle. (VH)

France - Rhone - White Table Wine

**** drink now
'Connivence' Chardonnay / Viognier 2004
Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Cellier de Marrenon) $12.95 (680629)

A lovely lifted nose of peaches, honey and pears blasts from the glass. The mouth feel is heavily textured and creamy. More peaches and pears present on the involved palate and there is lots of acidity to hold it all together. An interesting white at a very good price. This would pair well with chicken Kiev. (VH)

France - Bordeaux - Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Château Dauzac 2001
AOC Margaux $49.95 (940106)

Wow! This inky/opaque red is a monster of a wine that needs ageing and hearty cuisine to match. It has a gorgeously complex nose of tar, licorice and garrigue that is worth lingering over. The flavours are deeply concentrated black ripe fruit (cassis and red currants) layered over very chunky tannins that need to be tamed with time (atypical for this region). Try in 2010, but you can keep until 2015. Hearty stew to match. (VH)

**** drink now
Château Lanessan 1995
AOC Haut-Médoc (Domaines Bouteiller, Prop. - Récolt.) $44.95 (656603)

This is quintessential Bordeaux that has aged a decade with finesse and charm. A perfumed nose of currants, cassis and cigar box gently leads one to the well balanced and softly textured palate that is flavoured with black cherries and raspberry compote. Getting this all the way home from the LCBO store will be sufficient ageing. Try with roast venison. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Clos du Marquis 1999
AOC St-Julien 2nd Wine of Château Léoville-Las Cases $63.95 (656595)

A very aromatic nose of lilacs, leather and black currants provides a lovely entré to this dazzling red. Full bore black, ripe fruit (plums and cherries) attack the palate with gusto while the perceptible (and acceptable) tannins and acidity provide elegance, balance and structure. The finish provides more of the same and is monumental. (VH)

France - Midi - Red Table Wine

**** drink now
Les Jamelles Grenache/Syrah 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $11.95 (652164)

This region is, perhaps, the last bastion for good quality, inexpensive French reds and this is a prime example. Strawberry and cedar aromatics greet the taster before exploding on the palate with a blast of fruit and a silky texture. Not elegant or complex, but has all the elements; ripe cooked cherries on the palate, satiny tannins and a smooth fruity finish, to make this a well balanced, generous alcohol (13.5%) red. Pop this in the frig for 20 minutes before serving to give it a lift. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

France - Rhone - Red Table Wine

***** cellar
Domaine Perrin Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2001
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $29.95 (641548)

Its big sister, Château de Beaucastel, has all allowable 13 grapes. This is a Mourvèdre/Grenache/Cinsault/Syrah blend that is nothing short of sensational. Garrigue, leather and spice burst from the glass of this beautifully structured cellar candidate. The palate is a monstrous mouth full of grainy tannins slathered with cassis and spice. The finish is long, involved and still a bit tannic. Drink between 2007 and 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Beaumes de Venise Rouge 2000
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Vignerons de Beaumes-de-Venise) $19.95 (652206)

Floral and spice aromatics introduce this well priced, drink me now, red. This Provençal region is more familiar to cycling tourists and fans of sweet white wines than red wine lovers and that's a pity. The plum and red licorice flavours are enhanced by the smoothly textured mouth feel and perfectly balanced finish. This would be the perfect foil to smoked duck breasts over seared foie gras. (VH)

Germany - Rheinhessen -White Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Baron Heyl Estate Riesling 2002
QmP Rheinhessen (Weingut Freiherr Heyl zu Hernsheim) $18.95 (597872)

There is a slight petrol nuance on the nose along with other mineral and floral aromatics. You will love the mineral, marmalade peel and citrus flavours that meld perfectly with the ultra tangy, sweet and sour finish. This was built to drink now with spicy Thai, curried or Szechwan cuisine. You could also cellar until 2009 and let those petrol characteristics come to the fore. This winery has certainly mastered their terroir in their 2 centuries of winemaking. (VH)

Italy - Sardinia - Red Table Wine

**** drink or cellar
Sella & Mosca 'Medeus' 2000
IGT Isola dei Nuraghi $29.95 (653212)

Definitely, a very warm climate wine with ripe, rich, almost jammy characteristics. This is nicely structured from the raspberry and leather nose to the satin smooth finish of ripe tannins, spicy black fruit and well balanced acidity. Great now until 2010. Try with Osso Bucco accompanied by candlelight over a red checked table cloth. (VH)

Spain - Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres 'Nerola' Syrah/Monastrell 2002
DO Catalunya $19.95 (680751)

The Monastrell, aka Mourvèdre, adds complexity to this superbly crafted red from the premium red wine producer in Catalonia. The aromatics are a mélange of spice, black berry fruit, earthy tones and leather. The palate's not quite as involved, but well balanced with sour cherries and raspberries woven together with good weight and texture plus a pleasing finish. Pair with grilled red meats or pasta with a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

New in LCBO

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (606392)

Lovely toast and tropical fruit salad nose with a medium-bodied texture and a light finish that would appeal to those not fond of bomb blasts of over-oaked Aussie wines. This has pleasant apple and melon flavours and would pair exceptionally well with chicken in a light creamy sauce with pasta. Has been a huge seller in Oz for many years. (VH)


**** drink now
Aberdeen Wine Company "Angus The Bull" 2003
South Eastern Australia $17.95 (602615)

A new Australian Cabernet Sauvignon designed specifically, the label says, "for premium cuts of prime beef." It's a big, intense, saturated Cab, dominated by black fruit and berries with spice and mint notes. The tannins are soft and drying tannins, and the palate finishes with a big, fruity bang. If fruit-bombs are your thing, try this one with a thick, seasoned steak that's medium-rare at most. (RP)


**** drink now
Wolf Blass Shiraz/Grenache 2004
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (494336)

An involved nose of smoke, cranberries and cherries sets this up as something a little out of the ordinary. The flavours include eucalyptus, and tangy black berry fruit while the finish is exceptionally well balanced with enough acidity to allow it be paired with roast leg of lamb. Very well made and very well priced. (VH)

California

***1/2 drink now
Ernest & Julio Gallo "Turning Leaf" Chardonnay 2003
California $11.95 (409805)

A well-made, good value Chardonnay in Gallo's "Turning Leaf" range. It has a smooth texture and good solid fruit (tropical, citrus) with toasty, vanilla notes. It's not terribly complex, but it's well balanced and offers good value. You'll enjoy it with mid-week barbecues of seasoned or plain chicken and pork. (RP)

Chile

***1/2 drink now
Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2004
Rapel Valley $9.95 (341602)

Cono Sur is Chile's largest producer of Pinot Noir, and they do it well at all levels. This is a bargain-priced example that offers very good fruit, with sweet and sour cherry prominent and nice notes of pepper and spice. The balance is good, and weighted toward food-friendly acidity, as Pinot Noir should. Pair this with grilled lamb or salmon. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Alicia Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Maipo Valley $10.45 (309278)

A crisp Sauvignon Blanc with herbal and citrus aromas and prominent minerality. They lead to lean green apple, pear and mineral flavours. It's well balanced with bracing acidity and a clean finish, and it's ideal for grilled fish and seafood. (RP)


France

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cave des Papes Côtes-du-Rhône 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (535849)

The 2003 vintage in France was one of the warmest on record. I was in the Rhône region in July that year, and the grapes looked and tasted about ready for harvest by then. As it was, many regions began picking three or four weeks earlier than usual. This Côtes-du-Rhône shows the vintage in sweet, slightly jammy berry fruit that dominate the flavours. Still, it retains good complexity, and with dry texture, good balance and soft tannins, it's a versatile match for many red meat dishes. (RP)


Italy

****1/2 drink now
Masi Campofiorin Ripasso 2001
Rosso del Veronese I.G.T, Italy $16.95 (155051)

Leather, cherries and tar aromatics tantalize the taster, but this medium-bodied red has much more in store. Silky smooth and fruity (plums and more ripe cherries), the palate also detects mocha and black licorice in this involved and well structured wine. The finish is lengthy with a touch of sweet black fruit. A favourite all over the world, the blend is 2/3 Corvina, 1/3 Rondinella and a smidgeon of Marinera. Great value. (VH)

Ontario

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir Droit 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (582353)

An especially flavourful Gamay (plum, dark cherry) for 2003, with some earthy and spicy notes, and good, brisk acidity. This is a medium-bodied with real substance, and it pairs well with grilled lamb or salmon. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (391300)

A combination of lovely fruit (passion fruit, gooseberry, and citrus, with a hint of minerality), brisk acidity, and plush texture make for a delicious mouthful of Sauvignon Blanc. One of the best of the 04s I've tasted so far. Partner it with grilled seafood with a squirt of lemon. (RP)


***1/2 drink now
Creekside Cabernet 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (620708)

A good-value blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with lots of complexity. Look for dominant flavours of plum and cherry, with tobacco and pepper accents. It's well balanced with light tannins, and goes well with spicy grilled red meat. (RP)

**** drink now
Konzelmann "Golden Vintage" Vidal 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $8.75 (203836)

Vidal is too often a bland, too-sweet, unbalanced, inexpensive house wine, but when it's carefully made, it shines. Here's one well-made example, in an off-dry style with impressive complexity (dried apricot, mandarin peel, sweet pear, musk?). It makes a good summer sipping wine or pairs with spicy chicken or pork dishes. And it's excellent value. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Cabernet Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.05 (349191)

A well-priced, medium-weight red blend, with spicy dark red fruit flavours, light tannins and a decent length. It has brisk acidity that enables it to partner well with spicy tomato-based pasta and meat dishes. (RP)


New in Vintages

**** drink now
Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Sonoma, California $15.95 (340208)

A fabulous blending of New Zealand-like characteristics of SB with the warmer climate of Sonoma. Aromatics of gooseberries and passion fruit mark it as SB, while the beautiful fruit flavours (peaches and melons) and gorgeously textured mouth feel, bring the warm climate to the fore. A good spine of acidity runs through to the tangy finish. Quaff on its own or pair with mussels steamed in white wine. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Greg Norman Cabernet/Merlot 2002
Limestone Coast, Australia $23.95 (552075)

Beginning with the minty, oaky, black cherry nose and ending with a lingering finish of currants and balancing acidity, this wine is a crowd pleaser. It has gorgeous texture and provides a mouth watering array of fruit (spiced cranberry, plum and black currant) flavours with enough grip to mark it as a wine to be enjoyed with a meal. Why not try with grilled rare steak slathered with melted blue cheese and cracked pepper. (VH)

***** cellar
Masi Grandarella Appassimento
Rosso delle Venezie I.G.T, Italy $28.95 (606921)

This Amarone-like red is huge, brooding and delicious. Vinified 3/4 from an indigenous grape, Refosco, and 1/3 Carmenére, they are left some 2 months to dry, losing 1/3 of their weight, thereby concentrating flavours to make this mammoth wine. Cherry and mint aromatics blast away and provide a glimpse of the taste treat to follow. Grainy tannins, gobs of chocolate, cherries and tar dazzle the palate. The finish is luxurious. Drink 2010 to 2020 with a rare grilled Elk steak - now being farmed just west of Ottawa. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Viña Pérez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004
Maipo Valley, Chile $13.95 (694208)

An new edition to Vintages Essentials, this deep rich opaque Cab is incredible value. Hand picked fruit, low yields and only utilizing free run juice help make this wine memorable. Includes token amounts of Merlot (4%) and Syrah (1%), but the winery is convinced the 4% Carmenére really adds richness and complexity. The nose is toasty with black currants and raspberries whilst the palate is mouth filling with cherries and chocolate predominating. Cleans up with good acidity in the medium-length finish. Drink now until 2008 with grilled rare filet mignon. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent.com

***** drink or cellar
Viña Pérez Cruz Syrah 'Limited Edition' 2003
Maipo Valley, Chile $22.95 (589812)

This inky, glass staining red is one to keep in mind. Destined for a September/October release, it is hand picked into small baskets and uses only gravity flow. Black pepper and spice exude from the glass while the palate is complex, silky, rich and concentrated with ripe black cherry and black berry fruit flavours. The gorgeous finish begs for pepper and garlic encrusted grilled rack of lamb. Drink now to 2009. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Creekside Pinot Noir Reserve 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95

Coming into Vintages in July, this is another impressive Pinot Noir from Niagara. Creekside winemaker Craig McDonald says, "this is as full-on a Pinot Noir as you'd get in New Zealand." That's quite a claim, first because New Zealand has established a reputation for the variety and, second, because Craig's an Australian, and Australian's aren't known for their praise of New Zealand. But taste it for yourself. It has a central seam of pure rich cherry fruit with elegant spicy notes and light tannins. It's an excellent match for New Zealand lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Creekside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95

Coming to a Vintages near you in July. Cabernet is a difficult grape for Niagara (or vice versa), but 2001 provided excellent growing conditions. This is no warm-climate blockbuster, but a Cab in a more Old World style. The fruit is rich and well-focused, the balance is poised, and the tannins are softening. And it shows good typicity, which is crucial. It's an attractive wine that will pair nicely with a range of red meat dishes. (RP)

New in Ontario wineries

**** drink or cellar
Inniskillin Braeburn Vineyard Shiraz 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95

You'll find a warm debate about Niagara Shiraz. There are the nay-sayers, who insist that it's an impossible grape for the region, and the supporters who are putting their faith in it. Inniskillin is increasing plantings of the variety. The best way to find your position is to try a few, and this is a good one to start with. It's quite big and fruity-not in an Australian style, of course, but in a cool-climate way. Look for dark fruit (cherry, plum) with hints of vanilla, spice and chocolate. The tannins are firm. Test-drive this with well-seasoned grilled lamb. You can order this directly from the winery, and there's a handy link on winecurrent.com. (RP)

**** cellar
Inniskillin Founders' Reserve Meritage 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95

This blend includes a whopping 28% Petit Verdot. No, not 2.8%, 28%. As a lover of Petit Verdot, I really like its contribution to this big blend, with a core of ripe, sweet fruit. The texture is remarkably smooth, given the wine's age, but the tannins need time to soften. Put this away for at least three years, then drink it over the next five to seven. Order from the winery via the link on winecurrent.com, (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Inniskillin Dornfelder Icewine 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $200

The retail store at the winery has fewer than a hundred bottles of this, and even with this price tag, they're likely to disappear fairly quickly. This was one of the experiments tried in the late 90s by Inniskillin's icewine winemaker, Karl Kaiser. It has rich, black fruit and berry flavours. Kaiser suggests "it's like a Port, but without the alcohol." (The alcohol is 10%.) Just delicious and a real treat. Order direct from Inniskillin via the link at winecurrent.com.(RP)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95

One of Ontario's cult wines. It sells out quickly, so hurry if you want to get your bottles for delicious summer drinking. It's Sauvignon Blanc in a tight, lean style, with brisk, deep acidity, and lovely flavours of green apple and citrus fruit, with mineral notes. A great partner for briny oysters on the shell. Order from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

New in Restaurants

**** drink or cellar
Wairau River Wines 'Richmond Ridge' Sauvignon Blanc 2002
Marlborough, New Zealand $16.22

Lifted gooseberry and citrus aromatics capture the taster's interest while the tangy, beautifully textured and flavoured palate are simply beguiling. The flavour profile includes herbaceous citrussy notes over a layer of fresh mint and green apples. The prominent spine of acidity makes it a perfect partner for breaded calamari drizzled with fresh squeezed lemon juice. Order by case lots only via This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

Cheers!

Vic and Rod