February 4, 2012 Vintages Release
Susan Desjardins will handle the next few Vintages Releases solo as Vic swirls, sniffs and spits his way through South Africa. He’ll contribute reviews of wine tasted in the winelands that may make their way to the LCBO along with brief descriptions of wineries and their practices.Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
– this new symbol will guide you to wine of truly exceptional value using price-quality ratios. Go to winecurrent.com and click the tab ‘Rating System’ to view the criteria. - Good Value Whites – all 4 stars @ $14.95 - Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc under California: White Wine; Joseph Cattin Riesling under France: White Wine; Château Lamothe de Haux Blanc under France: White Wine
- Good Value Reds – Plunkett Fowles ‘Stone Dwellers’ Shiraz 2008 4 ½ stars @ $19.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2010 4 stars @ 13.95 under New in the LCBO Portfolio after the Main Release
- Good Value Sparkling – Jackson Triggs ‘Entourage Silver Series’ Brut Méthode Classique 2006 4½ stars @ $22.95 under Sparkling Wine
Feature: California Cabs
Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Sonoma County $19.95 (640573) 13.5% alcohol
Dominantly Cab, this nevertheless includes small quantities of the classic Bordeaux varietals adding attractive depth and complexity. Tantalizingly fresh aromas of chocolate-coated black cherry, plum jam, spice box, toast and vanilla rise from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, the texture is refreshing and vivid, while the sweet, ripe, dark spice-infused fruit is framed by ripe tannin. Nicely balanced, the spice and dark toasty notes carry through a lengthy, dry, fruit-filled finish. Really great value – pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)
Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $58.95 (932400) 13.7% alcohol
Ruby-hued with a youthful hint of violet, it delivers intricate aromas of cassis, red cherry, smoky toast and a hint of flowers. Concentrated, layered flavours stream across the palate—vivid fruit, spice, cedar and chocolate, all subtly framed by ripe tannin and refreshing acidity. Dry, medium-full bodied, this is an elegant, refined wine whose fine texture, well-integrated oak and dry flavourful finish speak of well-crafted balance. Pair with roasted vegetables and slow-roasted lamb—pick up an extra bottle or two for mid-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)
Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Dry Creek Valley $24.95 (642207) 14.5% alcohol
Blending of small amounts of the classic Bordeaux varietals to this Cab has added substance, harmony and complexity. Rich ripe fruit aromas, crème de cassis, spice, cedar and mocha abound. Dry, full bodied and robust—almost brawny—this is crafted on a spine of lively acidity and firm tannin, It offers an intriguing array of flavours from concentrated tangy cherry/berry fruit through espresso and notes of dried herbs and spice that linger on the long, dry finish. A wine to serve now with rare meats and that will cellar another 5-7 years. Great value! (Susan Desjardins)
Duckhorn Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $32.95 (186171) 14.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas drift from the glass—a whiff of spiced vanilla, a nuance of cigar box and tantalizing dark berry fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, there are lovely spicy, peppery overtones to the mouth-filling, nicely balanced fruit. The texture’s firm, the acidity lively and the finish warm, spicy and long-lasting. This is a classy, approachable, well-priced red that brings you back for one more sip, time after time. (Susan Desjardins)
Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $69.95 (22877) 14.4% alcohol
Expansive and opulent, this plush, dry, full-bodied Cab is perfumed with spiced rose, black cherry and cassis, all with an earthy undertone. Concentrated dark fruit is subtly framed and balanced with fine-tuned acidity while the finish carries through with a lovely, rich, velvety texture. A hedonist’s dream, sip to enjoy and savour with fine grilled meat or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Feature: Greek Revival
Tselepos Moschofilero Mantinia 2010
PDO Mantinia $16.95 (724583) 12.0% alcohol
Pale yellow, clean and clear, this Greek white offers intriguing aromas—floral, stone and orchard fruit, a whiff of tropical fruit and a tangy note Dry, light-medium bodied, it delivers great citrus acidity and a dry finish lifted by the pithiness of lemon zest. Serve with sautéed scallops or pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)
Limnos Winery Muscat of Limnos 2010
AOQS Limnos $13.95 (268029) 15.0% alcohol
Greece is certainly renowned for its sweet Muscat wines and this is a charming example. Delicious aromas of clover honey, rosewater and five-fruit marmalade herald an equally luscious, delicately honeyed, tangy texture mingling with flavours of brandied peaches and sweet citrus. There’s a great combination of sweet and tang that finishes with a flourish. Be certain to sample with fruit cake. (Susan Desjardins)
Kir-Yianni ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro 2008
AOQS Naoussa $18.95 (178020) 14.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard red offers a rich bouquet of fresh red fruit, hints of spice and earthy, herbal nuances. This Xinomavro, an indigenous varietal known for its acidity, doesn’t disappoint. Framed by firm tannin, the vibrant red berries ride a racy seam of acidity through a lengthy, mouth-watering, spice-infused finish. Try it now with roasted pork loin with a wild mushroom sauce or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Tsantali ‘Reserve’ Rapsani 2007
PDO Rapsani $15.95 (734856) 13.5% alcohol
Three years of oak aging bring evolved aromas to this semi-opaque garnet wine. It was produced from a blend of indigenous red grapes. Dried cherries, plum, cedar, vanilla and spice dominate on the nose. Dry, medium bodied and silky in texture, the vibrant wine continues to offer a firm structure framing cherry/berry pie garnished with notes of spice, pepper and cedar. The finish is long and dry. Pair this with a hearty meat stew. (Susan Desjardins)
The Main Release
Icewine
G Marquis ‘The Silver Line’ Vidal Icewine 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (262477) 200 mL 9.9% alcohol
This amber-gold Vidal is a very tasty, well-balanced gem that entices with succulent aromas of pineapple, caramelized apple and roast apricot. Luscious honeyed stone fruit and rich tropical fruit play across the nicely-weighted wine finishing with a well-crafted harmony of honey and tang. Sip on its own or enjoy with artisan cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)
Sparkling Wine
Jackson Triggs ‘Entourage Silver Series’ Brut Méthode Classique 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (234161) 12.0% alcohol
A yellow-golden hue and alluring nose of citrus, floral and Bavarian apple tart presage a profusion of bubbles, dazzling flavours and crisp refreshing aftertaste. Fresh lively flavours of lime sherbet, crisp green apple and white peach infuse the brisk, fine-bead mousse and persist on the racy, refreshing finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel bubbling over with value. (Vic Harradine)
Riva dei Frati Prosecco ‘Superiore’ Valdobbiadene Non-vintage
DOCG Valdobbiadene $18.95 (234732) 11.5% alcohol
Given its freshness, approachability and value equation, Prosecco has become wildly popular. This is no exception, with sweet citrus, orchard fruit and mineral notes carried on a soft delicate mousse. Dry, light-medium bodied and fruity, it teases the palate and finishes with a refreshing citrus note. Pop the cork with friends; sip on its own before or after dinner. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
Pondview Riesling 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek $16.00 (271148) 12.3% alcohol
Peachy gold, this lovely off-dry, medium-bodied Riesling offers attractive aromas and flavours—stone fruit, orchard fruit and lemon-lime to the fore. The texture is quite lush with a citrus tang balancing the abundant fruit. Enjoy with lightly spiced, cashew chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Red Wine
Cattail Creek ‘Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 (271825) 12.5% alcohol
Unfiltered and aged 15 months in French and American oak, this is a well-crafted blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from one of Niagara’s great vintages. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s complexity of aromas and flavours—sweet dark fruit, cherries, spice and vanilla—as well as a round texture and subtle structure. There are vanilla replays on the vibrant finish along with a dash of white pepper—a good match for beef short ribs with mashed taters and neeps. (Susan Desjardins)
British Columbia: Red Wine
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $25.95 (553313) 13.5% alcohol
Savour the attractive aromatic complexity of this award-winning deep ruby wine—sweet dark fruits, spice and cedar mingling with vanilla and bitter-sweet chocolate. Well-tuned acidity matches concentrated black cherry and plum flavours with notes of espresso, dark chocolate and herbs lingering on the plush aftertaste. The perceptible tannin frames a strong, dry, textured finish. This is well crafted to savour now or cellar a further 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
Dry Creek Vineyard ‘Fumé Blanc’ 2010
Sonoma County $14.95 (277715) 13.5% alcohol
Almost transparent, this appealing Sauvignon Blanc offers great value and attractive complexity of aromas and flavours. Subtle gooseberry, grapefruit, lemon grass and slightly vegetal aromas drift from the glass. Crisp, dry and medium bodied, it offers a silky texture, harmonious balance, and a citrus pithiness on the lengthy aftertaste. With the value equation tipping in your favour, pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)
Oregon: White Wine
A to Z Pinot Gris 2009
Oregon $19.95 (258145) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a go-to wine to start a party—fruity, yet fresh, clean and bright, it’s a crowd-pleaser. Aromas and flavours of flowers, sweet citrus—tangerine and lime come to mind—and a hint of sweet orchard fruit characterize this light-medium bodied wine. Easy drinking and approachable, it has a tasty fruity finish. Enjoy on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)
Argentina: White Wine
Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2010
Uco Valley $19.95 (66829) 13.0% alcohol
Beguiling floral aromas, luscious notes of orchard fruit and citrus waft from the glass of this dry, weighty wine. Friulano is a popular varietal in northern Italy, recognized for a crisp texture and the hint of nuts that develop on aging. This one displays a lovely round texture, lush flavours of pear and Honey Crisp apple along with hints of toasted hazelnut persisting through the fruity finish. This is very approachable and a good choice for roasted, lemon and garlic chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Argentina: Red Wine
Don Nieto Senetiner ‘Don Nicanor’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $17.95 (178657) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 12 months in French oak, this inky black Malbec offers great value. Dry, full bodied, the aromas are intense—dark berry, plum, floral, cedar, spice and vanilla—and the dark fruit flavours are equally concentrated with the floral, spice and cedar notes adding complexity on the palate. There’s good structure and balance coupled with a lingering, consistently flavourful finish. Serve now with rare grilled meats or cellar a few bottles medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Merlot 2010
Lujàn de Cuyo $19.95 (248492) 14.7% alcohol
From a consistently reliable producer, this dry, medium-full bodied red displays fresh texture, ripe tannin, nicely integrated oak and loads of aromas and flavours—delicious black raspberry and ripe cherry along with hints of vanilla and sweet herbs. An elusive floral note mingles with notes of toast on the lengthy, savoury finish. Aged 8 months in French and American oak, the wine is unfiltered and unfined—watch for sediment when pouring. (Susan Desjardins)
Chile: Red Wine
Maycas del Limarí ‘Especial Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Limarí Valley $19.95 (256701) 14.5% alcohol
Cab, with a touch of Syrah, the inky hue of this red heralds the dark berry aromas, notes of underbrush, cedar, spice and vanilla. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s framed by firm tannin. The oak’s well integrated and the acidity provides a fine counterpoint to the ripe berry fruit. Well crafted and deftly balanced, it shows length on the finish needing robust fare to match. It’ll cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: White Wine
Small Gully ‘The Formula Helen’s Harmony’ Viognier 2008
Barossa Valley $19.95 (269332) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, medium bodied and quite fleshy, this peachy gold beauty offers quite luscious aromas and flavours of sweet stone fruit, apples, pears and a faint note of dried herbs. Restrained acidity underlies the ripe sweet fruit through the characteristic, slightly bitter, citrus zest finish. Serve well chilled with grilled chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2009
Padthaway $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
Offering ample aromas and flavours, this blend also delivers interesting complexity—dark berry fruit interwoven with earthy autumnal notes, cigar box and spice. Dry and full bodied, the dark fruit is quite luscious while earthy characters persist with notes of spice and a dash of pepper throughout the extended, luxurious finish. Enjoy now with herbed roast lamb or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Plunkett Fowles ‘Stone Dwellers’ Shiraz 2008
Strathbogie Ranges $19.95 (265967) 15.0% alcohol
Dense, inky and concentrated, this plush Shiraz offers lifted aromas of rich ripe blackberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon toast and black licorice. The rich dark fruit is balanced by silky tannin and fine acidity with loads of black pepper and sweet spice running through the long, sweet, warm finish. Good value, enjoy now with grilled meats or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
S D.O.V. Grenache 2008
Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale $22.95 (267963) 16.0% alcohol
Dry and full bodied, this was prepared using grapes dried on the vine (D.O.V.), bringing an added dimension. Semi-opaque garnet, the nose offers jammy fruit, hints of dried cherries, floral notes and an attractive whiff of sweet kitchen spice. Smooth, velvety in texture and opulent, the palate is awash in warm, ripe berry preserves, a hint of underbrush, spice and vanilla creating a tantalizing taste experience that carries through a warm peppery finish. (Susan Desjardins)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2010
Marlborough $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol
Consistently reliable and well crafted, this semi-transparent ruby Pinot delivers classic red cherry/berry aromas and flavours with notes of earth and underbrush adding complexity. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a nice balance of bright acidity, fine tannin and cherry/berry fruit. The underlying earthiness persists while hints of cedar and spice show on the lengthy finish. Try with veal chops or grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)
South Africa: Red Wine
Muratie Shiraz 2007
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (663278) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, the intense, concentrated aromas of berry fruit, cocoa and an elusive earthy, floral note almost leap from the glass. Dry and medium bodied, plush blackberries, spice, pepper and dark chocolate mingle on the palate with an understated structure and fine acidity bringing balance. There’s warmth on the palate and throughout the lush spicy finish along with a lingering earthy note. This is a definite match for lamb. (Susan Desjardins)
France: White Wine
Joseph Cattin Riesling 2010
AOC Alsace $14.95 (259778) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s yet another award-winning Riesling from Alsace; it’s a lovely peachy-gold hue. The aromatics are floral, honeysuckle, sweet citrus and stone fruit. Dry, medium bodied, the palate is full-on stone fruit garnished with a splash of lime and crisp acidity bringing balance and freshness through the finish. It’s simply delightful and great value. (Susan Desjardins)
Château Lamothe de Haux Blanc 2010
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $14.95 (909341) 12.5% alcohol
This is excellent value—a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle offering the attractive pungency of gooseberry, grapefruit and citrus zest with subtle vegetal notes. Firmly dry and medium bodied, the vibrant citrus and racy acidity create very clean balance. Look for mouth-cleansing citrus pithiness delivering a refreshing and lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Pasta with grilled chicken in cream sauce is a good match. (Susan Desjardins)
France: Red Wine
Château Haut-Canteloup 2009
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $13.95 (264747) 13.0% alcohol
You’ll want to load the cart with this award-winning Bordeaux blend of Merlot plus Cabernets. Deep crimson, it’s loaded with aromas of sweetly spiced black berries, vanilla, cedar and floral nuances. On the palate, dry, medium-full bodied, earthy, leathery notes underlie dark fruit and vanilla. Perceptible tannin and lively acidity frame the ripe fruit with an attractive, dry, fresh finish wrapping up the package. Enjoy with beef or lamb and drink over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)
Perrin ‘Nature’ Côtes du Rhône 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (948059) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s reliably good value from a storied Rhône Valley family that considers organic cultivation the natural choice for stewards of the land. Grenache with a dash of Syrah, the nose beguiles with a hint of cotton candy, raspberry jam, toast and spice box. Dry, medium-bodied, vibrantly fruity and fresh in texture, there are notes of spice and pepper garnishing bright red berry fruity. Bright and lively on the finish, this is a wine to pair with mushroom risotto. (Susan Desjardins)
Xavier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (244814) 14.5% alcohol
Use of 3 varietals (Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah) from decades-old vines grown on 3 different terroirs, brings complexity to this classic blend. Subtle, enticing aromas drift from the glass—sandalwood, red berry, cherry and hints of menthol with herbes de Provence layering on complexity. The shyness is overcome on the palate. Dry and full bodied, this is a beautifully balanced red with weight and warmth highlighting a frame of ripe tannin and clean vivid berry flavours. Intensely flavourful, peppery notes and nuances of roasted coffee beans persist on the extended finish. Enjoy now with bison bourguignon or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)
Germany: White Wine
Dr Loosen ‘Blue Slate’ Riesling Kabinett 2010
Mosel $19.95 (160846) 7.5% alcohol
For those seeking a tasty, low-in-alcohol white wine, this is an excellent choice. Off-dry, light-medium bodied, this offers the harmony of tangy acidity, fresh minerality and lovely fruity aromas and flavours—stone fruit, mango and a dash of lime zest. This is consistent throughout, tasty and palate pleasing. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: Red Wine
Castellani ‘Vignetti di Campomaggio’ Rosso 2007
IGT Toscana $19.95 (72371) 13.0% alcohol
This nicely balanced blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo displays engaging aromas of cherry cola, red fruit, spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s lovely balance, fresh acidity and ripe tannin framing bright red fruit and notes of cocoa. Tantalizing vanilla persists on the clean lengthy finish. Match to pasta in tomato-based sauce or a medley of herbed roasted tomatoes, artichokes and chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2005
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $49.95 (237263) 14.5% alcohol
The involved and evolved bouquet includes berry compote, earthiness, floral notes and a hint of leather. Dry and full bodied, displaying a firm structure and bright acidity, the berry notes replay on the palate garnished with a grind of black pepper. The finish is dry, long and mouthwatering. Good to age 3-5 more years or decant for an hour or two prior to serving with a rare steak. (Susan Desjardins)
Antolini Morópio Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $34.95 (247957) 16.0 % alcohol
Garnet in hue, this dry, full-bodied Amarone is powerful, quite opulent and beautifully balanced. Aromas of dried fruits, spice-laden red fruit and vanilla spill from the glass. Rich and concentrated on the palate with intense spice and pepper notes, it offers fresh texture and well-integrated tannin. The harmony of structure and intensity carries through on the lengthy, spiced, fruit-laden finish. This is good value with further aging potential. (Susan Desjardins)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Casal Thaulero Pinot Grigio 2010
IGP Osco, Italy $7.95 (073163) 13.0%
An astounding value-packed Pinot Grigio that over-delivers on all counts—hard to believe you get all this well-balanced flavour for so little. It caresses the palate with a medium-bodied wash of honeydew melon, apple and white peach flavour mingling with good moderating citrus acidity. Terrific sipped on its own, it also struts it stuff with seafood, fish or lemon veal. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2010
VQA Ontario $13.95 (270926) 13.0% alcohol ($1.00 off until February 25)
For many—and for many years—the benchmark Baco Noir in Ontario hails from Henry of Pelham. Aromas of dark briary berry mingling with wisps of oak segue a balanced and fruity palate-coating wash of black raspberry and mixed field berry adorned with spice, espresso roast and racy, lively acidity. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a lip-smacking aftertaste. Give it a go with smoked, grilled ribs slathered in BBQ sauce, meat-laden pizza or stews. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catherine Rosé Brut Non-vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (217 505) 12.0% alcohol ($3.00 off until February 25)
A traditional blend of hand-harvested Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was whole-bunch pressed coalescing in this gorgeously hued bubbly. It’s ideal as an impressive welcoming wine or paired with pan-seared scallops, steamed mussels or freshly shucked oysters. Brioche and floral on the nose, the enthusiastic mousse bursts on the palate with strawberry-rhubarb pie mingling with racy red cherry. It’s mid weight, crisp and refreshing with a lip-smacking delectable finish. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Sparkling Rosé ‘Méthode Cuve Close’ Non-vintage
VQA Ontario $16.20 (184176) 12.5% alcohol
Produced from Merlot grapes with the second fermentation in tank, this deep rose-pink sparkler tumbles into the glass in a great frothy mousse. It offers lovely aromas of red fruit—cherry, raspberry, pomegranate—and an earthy herbal note Dry and medium bodied, it’s crisp and fresh in texture, replaying bright red fruits on the palate and offering good length on the nicely balanced finish. Charm your Valentine! (Susan Desjardins)
Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (219279) 13.0% alcohol
Yellow-green, this juicy wine offers subtle aromas of citrus, white peach, green apple and wet stone. Dry, light-medium bodied, the vibrant acidity underpins vivid green apple, lemon-lime and delicate pear notes. Underlying minerality carries through the refreshing tangy finish. Good value that will pair well with chicken roasted with tarragon and lemon zest garnish. (Susan Desjardins)
Konzelmann Merlot ‘Reserve’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (439281) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this quaffable wine offers attractive aromas of vanilla, cherry, black raspberry and spice. It’s dry and on the light side of mid-weight with engaging lively acidity and supple tannin framing attractive berry/cherry fruit and spiced vanilla. Tangy pepper and toasty oak notes emerge on the savoury finish. Serve with stuffed roast peppers. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Ontario Wineries
Konzelmann Vidal ‘Special Select’ Late Harvest Vidal 2010
VQA Ontario $20.15 (375 ml) 10.5% alcohol
The luscious and complex nose—peach conserve, apricot jam, sweet apple cider and honeysuckle—heralds the equally lush concentrated fruit flavours replaying on the palate. A vibrant backbone of acidity assures well-crafted balance and underlines the persistent honeyed finish. Pour alongside a selection of artisan cheeses or apricot tart. Available from Konzelmann Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake and worth the drive, phone 905-938-8201 or email to have it delivered by the case to your home or office. (Susan Desjardins)
Cheers, Vic and Susan