January 21, 2012 Vintages Release
Will 2012 See the Repeal of This Archaic Law?
An archaic 1928 federal law (Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act) makes it a criminal offence for individuals to bring home, transport or ship even one bottle of wine for personal use from one province to another. The LCBO recently declared Ontario residents may bring home one case of out-of-province wine (9 L) on their person and provided means for ordering out-of-province wine via their ‘Private Ordering Department’. If you wish the present federal law repealed, make your voice heard in a meaningful, impactful manner. Read More… [PDF file]
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
– this new symbol will guide you to wine of truly exceptional value using price-quality ratios. Go to winecurrent.com and click the tab ‘Rating System’ to view criteria. - Susan’s Stars – Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2009 in Feature: Grapes to Discover; Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2009 under Australia: Red Wine
- Vic’s Picks – Perrin & Fils Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2009 under Dessert Wine; Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 under France: Red Wine
Feature: Grapes to Discover
Spice Route Chenin Blanc 2009
WO Swartland $17.95 (174623) 14.0% alcohol
From low-yielding bush vines, this golden, barrel-fermented ‘Steen’ is richly aromatic—orchard fruit, spice, caramel and toasted hazelnut lift from the glass. Dry, creamy and softly textured, well-integrated oak complements a rush of orchard fruit and lemon curd. Lovely balance, weight and texture—what’s not to like? (Susan Desjardins)
Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2009
DO Bierzo $22.95 (675207) 15.0% alcohol
Produced from a lesser-known varietal, Mencia, this concentrated, harmonious red offers a tantalizing nose of berry, wood smoke, herbs and floral notes. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well crafted and finely balanced; ripe tannins and fresh acidity frame cherry/berry fruit, spice and herbs. An extended finish wraps up the stylish package. Enjoy it now with grilled meat or cellar 3-5 years. Vic and I both loved this. (Susan Desjardins)
Castaño ‘Reserva’ Pozuelo 2006
DO Yecla $14.95 (35485) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from Monastrell (Mourvèdre) with a dollop each of Cab Sauv, Syrah and Merlot, the old, bush vines flourish on a windy, dry, sunny plateau. This is a wine where balance and structure are watchwords. Aromas of sweetly spiced fruit, vanilla, licorice and campfire smoke herald concentrated flavours of ripe dark berries, plum, herbs and sweet spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it displays perceptible tannins and fresh acidity, the long dry finish offering the warmth of sun-kissed fruit. Enjoy it with braised short ribs and roast root veggies. (Susan Desjardins)
Talamonti ‘Tre Saggi’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (204016) 13.5% alcohol
This award-winner was hand harvested and aged 12 months in French oak. It offers an attractive value equation. Complexity on the nose recurs on the palate—ripe fruit, autumnal notes, vanilla, coffee bean and toast mingle to create interest and depth. The dark berry and cherry fruit is quite plush, the tannins soft, the acidity fresh, creating a dry, medium-full bodied wine with great balance and a touch of sweet vanilla on the lengthy aftertaste. Enjoy with herbed roast pork au jus. (Susan Desjardins)
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Petit Verdot 2009
Rapel Valley $14.95 (007484) 14.5% alcohol
Inky, with a concentrated weighty texture, this is a drink-me-now example of a varietal more commonly found in Bordeaux blends. There’s alluring complexity, including subtle floral, spice and vanilla notes, a hint of licorice and chocolaty caramel garnishing dark berry fruits. Aged 18 months in oak, dry, full bodied and structured, rich and velvety, this is a powerful wine with impact from the first whiff to the last spicy, chocolate-tinged sip. Partner this Petit Verdot with lamb and root veggie ragout now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (986752) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dried, crushed currant, dark cherry and cedar waft from this mid-weight, gutsy red. Ripe mulberry, red currant and juicy Bing cherry on the palate, the vibrant, dry aftertaste layers on a perceptible tannin underpinning and tangy acidity coupled with flavours of char and espresso roast. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and serve with lamb tagine or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Main Release
Fortified Wine: Port
Quinta De Ventozelo ‘Reserva’ Ruby Port Non-vintage
DOC Douro $16.95 (141028) 20% alcohol
Punching well above the price, this delivers a robust, delectable mouthful of sweet succulent nectar with dark raisin, spice-infused, ripe, black currant and black treacle to the fore. It coats the palate delivering a lengthy aftertaste that’s perfectly paired with butter pecan pie, chocolate dessert or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wine
La Face Cachée de la Pomme ‘Neige’ Première Ice Cider 2009
Quebec $24.95 (039305) 375 ml 10.0% alcohol
The unique process for making this type of ice cider includes keeping the apples cool until December when they are pressed, placing the juice outside to freeze in order to concentrate the sugars, and then fermenting in tank at low temperatures for 6 months. Tawny gold, the wine is true to its source, displaying concentrated apple aromas over a backdrop of citrus and wild honey. With verve and nerve, lively acidity and intense apple flavours combine to create a lovely balanced texture. It’s a delectable taste experience and a choice companion for an artisanal cheese plate or apple crisp with maple-infused whipped cream. (Susan Desjardins)
Perrin & Fils Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2009
AOC Beaumes de Venise $16.95 (004713) 375 mL 15.0% alcohol
The involved aromas of orange blossom, tangerine and exotic incense provide segue for a balanced and beautiful wash of flavour—grapey Muscat, spice-infused rosewater and honeyed nectarine. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a very generous aftertaste. The half-bottle lends itself to dessert wine for four, give it a go chilled with fruit flan or simple pound cake. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Off-dry Riesling 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench $15.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
The aromas of sweet orchard fruit, citrus and mineral presage the appealing, well-balanced nature of this gem. Tangy and sweet, there’s a chorus of citrus and the sweet notes of peach and Mac apple. Attractive, approachable and just plain tasty, it’s a lovely match for smoked salmon or lightly spiced Pad Thai with shrimp. Crafted for your enjoyment now or from the cellar over the next 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)
Vineland Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.95 (551168) 12.0% alcohol
Pale straw, this wine artfully combines intense citrus aromas, alluring tropical fruit notes and a subtle underlying mineral character. Dry, medium bodied, the aromas replay on the palate, braced with vibrant acidity and clean minerality. Fresh, fruity, absolutely delightful, enjoy it with sautéed scallops or pan-fried halibut with a lemon-caper sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
Mer Soleil ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2009
Santa Lucia Highlands $34.95 (958975) 14.5% alcohol
Toast, vanilla and mixed spice box on the nose, the palate’s treated to a mouth-coating river of sweet, ripe tropical fruit mingling with spice-laden green apple. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, it finishes lengthy in a blaze of tangy citrus and ripe orchard fruit. Lovely sipped on its own when welcoming guests, it also shows well matched with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Château St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
California $19.95 (38034) 13.8% alcohol
This is an inky purple-hued red that’s a fruit-forward offering with a touch of mint and an emphasis on dark berries, cedar and creamy cappuccino. Dry, medium-full bodied, a fresh texture and silky tannin complement cassis, spice, dried herbs and toasty notes. Enjoy the long velvety finish of this value-laden wine as you sip it with chicken thighs in a red wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Goldeneye Pinot Noir 2008
Anderson Valley $59.95 (659854) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, earthy and underbrush aromas presage a rich, luscious river of smoky flavour—black currant and black cherry mingling with oodles of savoury herbs. It’s medium weight with the mid-length, dry aftertaste adding a layer of racy red currant and wisps of supple tannin. Pair with rosemary-rubbed lamb chops and roasted veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Loredona Pinot Noir 2009
Monterey $16.95 (57620) 13.5% alcohol
Approachable, well-crafted aromas of raspberry, spice-infused cherry/berry, vanilla and earth waft from the glass. Dry, fruity and medium bodied, red berries and cherries liven the palate along with sweet spice and earthy notes. Nicely balanced, offering a fresh texture and a lasting fruit-filled finish—this is a match for pork or veal chops. (Susan Desjardins)
Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $45.95 (907477) 14.8% alcohol
This is a gorgeous Napa Cab with tell-tale dark, juicy briary fruit infused with mint aromas melding with cassis. Aromas of black berry and vanilla spill freely from this medium-full bodied, generously textured, cellar dweller. Palate-coating flavours abound—juicy black Bing cherry and bramble berry mingling with fennel and hints of black licorice. It finishes long with good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. Pour 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Ravenswood ‘Single Vineyard Belloni’ Zinfandel 2008
Russian River Valley $44.95 (672741) 15.0% alcohol
Ravenswood is an iconic producer of California Zin. This sports aromas of black plum and bramble berry jam interwoven with cedar before introducing a racy river of sour cherry, black currant brushed with savoury tomato-leaf notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a mid-length aftertaste of succulent black raspberry and racy red currant. Works well with meat-laden, spicy, gourmet pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Alamos Malbec
Mendoza $13.95 (467951) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from hand-harvested fruit, this is an always reliable purple-hued Malbec. Dry, plush and full-bodied on the palate, it overflows with aromas and flavours of dark berries and black cherries, sweet spice and vanilla, along with a delicate floral note lifting from the glass. Subtly framed with ripe tannin and fine acidity, it delivers great balance and a tangy, flavourful, fruit-filled finish. Enjoy with your favourite grilled meat. (Susan Desjardins)
Alfredo Roca Pinot Noir 2010
Mendoza $12.95 (32979) 13.1% alcohol
This semi-transparent ruby gem offers lifted aromas of raspberry pie, Bing cherry, cinnamon, maple candy and a whiff of flowers. A classic New World Pinot, it’s dry yet fruity, medium bodied and nicely balanced. The palate is awash with sweet red and black berries, spice and vanilla, the well-integrated oak persisting on the finish. Pick up a couple of bottles and enjoy with roast salmon, chicken or veal tenderloin with sautéed mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2008
Maipú $17.95 (143412) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s another great value; a deep ruby Syrah—aged 9 months in oak—proffering attractive aromas of vanilla, spice and rich, ripe dark fruit. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s deftly structured, smooth and fresh with good texture, replaying dark fruit and vanilla, nuances of chocolate and spiced toast on the extended finish. Enjoy it now with grilled red meat or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: White Wine
Robert Oatley Pinot Grigio 2010
Adelaide Hills $15.95 (159806) 12.2% alcohol
This is a dry, medium-bodied white offering floral, stone fruit and subtle minerality on the nose while balancing lively acidity with rich orchard fruit, citrus and mineral notes. Fruity on the mid-length finish, it’s a good choice to welcome your guests or to match with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
Hewitson ‘Miss Harry’ 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (107870) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend of Rhône Valley varietals delivers a heady nose of fresh savoury and herbs interwoven with red cherry/berry. It’s light-medium bodied, crisp and refreshing on the palate with red and black currant, spiced dark plum and nuances of black pepper. The tangy, racy aftertaste showers red currant and red cherry along with hints of dark berry fruit. Give it a go with smoked, grilled duck breasts over a bed of arugula drizzled with sweet mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)
Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2009
Clare Valley $24.95 (998476) 14.5% alcohol
Inky purple, this is a beautifully crafted Shiraz delivering a gorgeous consistent profile of red and black berries, eucalyptus and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the raspberry comes to the fore on the palate, highlighting the good texture matched to well-integrated tannins. Notes of chocolate and dried herbs add complexity. Exquisite balance persists through a clean, refreshing, richly fruited finish. Savour this now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Penfolds ‘Bin 138’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $34.95 (468637) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a red blend sourced from premium vineyards of 35- to +100-year-old vines. It’s also from one of Australia’s best wineries; this is well worth considering. Heady aromas of spiced black plum and black currant herald persistent, structured waves of flavour with red currant and briary berry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lengthy, rich finish underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Delicious now and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Pike & Joyce Pinot Noir 2009
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $24.95 (068064) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, aromatic bitters and dark berry fruit aromas presage a river of tangy red currant and spice-laden sour cherry on the palate. Light-medium bodied with good texture, the aftertaste is fruity and nicely balanced. Pour alongside smoked and grilled duck breasts over a bed of arugula drizzled with sweet mango curry sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Torbreck ‘Cuvée Juveniles’ 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (723940) 14.5% alcohol
Gorgeous and gushing with charm—look for spiced field berry and lively earthy aromas on the nose. Rich and luscious, mouth-coating dark Bing cherry, ripe mulberry and succulent bramble berry persist throughout. It’s nicely structured, medium-full bodied with loads of mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced savoury, tangy finish. Ripe tannin and good moderating acidity complete the package. (Vic Harradine)
Turkey Flat ‘Butchers Block’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (090241) 14.5% alcohol
A good friend brought me back a bottle of Turkey Flat from a trip to Australia 15 years ago paying $50 a bottle—the quality’s still the same, you gotta love the price now. Underbrush, gamy notes, dark fruit and aromatic bitters on the nose, this dishes up a tangy, racy rendition of the popular GSM red blend. Mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with flavour, there’s good red cherry/berry fruit with lashings of ripe bramble berry for balance. It finishes with the lip-smacking tang of cranberry and red cherry interwoven with sprigs of savoury herbs and spice. (Vic Harradine)
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Brimming with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black licorice and mint, this rolls over the palate with endless waves of juicy, mint-laced Bing cherry and succulent black currant preserve. Wakefield’s one of 12 iconic, family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing wine with sense of place; in this instance, it’s Clare Valley. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lingering, well-structured aftertaste that’s underpinned by ripe supple tannin, moderating acidity and more than its fair share of charm. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Pinot Blanc 2010
AOC Alsace $14.95 (134635) 12.0% alcohol
Teasing the nose with subtle floral and spice notes overlaid on citrus and orchard fruit, this dry juicy wine replays those fruity flavours on the palate. Attractive tangy acidity balances the sweet ripe fruit, assuring a fine, fresh finish. Enjoy this wine with pork loin roasted with herbs and sweet potatoes. (Susan Desjardins)
La Chablisienne ‘Saint-Bris’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
AOC Chablis $13.95 (641753) 12.5% alcohol
Straw-hued, this unique gem—a Sauvignon Blanc from Chablis—offers lovely balance and excellent value. Citrus, floral notes, green apple and mineral are the dominant aromas and flavours of this dry, medium-bodied wine. Fresh, zesty and juicy, it delivers a lasting vibrant finish. It’s a delightful pairing with a classic goat cheese appetizer or with your favorite shellfish. (Susan Desjardins)
Bougrier Vouvray 2010
AOC Vouvray $13.95 (106880) 12.0% alcohol
Orchard fruit, spice and citrus on the nose, this bursts on the palate with a dazzling array of off-dry, succulent flavours—honeyed nectarine and peach, juicy tangerine and lemon pie filling. It’s mid weight and beautifully textured with a mouth-watering finish of crisp and refreshing lemony tang. This sips well on its own and really shines with spicy Asian cuisine. Stock up on this one. (Vic Harradine)
Château Salmonière ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Muscadet Sèvre & Maine 2010
AOC Muscadet Sèvre & Maine $13.95 (142380) 12.0% alcohol
Citrus, floral and spice aromas herald a river of racy lemon/lime and ripe pineapple. It’s light-medium bodied with decent mouth feel and very well balanced throughought. The lip-smacking finish lets you know pan-seared scallops, grilled prawns and freshly shucked oysters will all pair well. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Hecht & Bannier St-Chinian 2009
AOC St-Chinian $23.95 (184184) 13.5% alcohol
Powerful, heady aromas abound with spiced dark berry fruit, cedar and wood smoke among them. The palate’s treated to a rich and racy wash of red cherry, currant and nuances of mocha and tar. Medium bodied with good mouth feel and deft balance, the lengthy finish is layered and luscious with a supple tannin underpinning. Pair with cassoulet or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Château Saint Maurice Laudun Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (177576) 14.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs and sandalwood aromas presage a spirited river of bracing, racy tang—red currant and sour cherry—that persist throughout. It’s mid weight with a lip-smacking aftertaste of cranberry and currants. Grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbeque sauce pair well. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $42.95 (067678) 15.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of mocha, gamy notes and berry fruit waft freely from this gorgeous red blend—90% Grenach, 10% Syrah—sourced from +50 year-old vines. Palate-coating waves of sweet, ripe fruit—mulberry, black currant, spiced black plum—mingle with cassis and kirsch liqueur. It’s mid-full weight, with velvety mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced fruity finish. Certainly worth picking up one or more. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
La Madonnina Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (191361) 13.5% alcohol
An involved and well-blanced Riserva that delivers on all counts—interesting nose, excellent fruit, good balanced acidity, lovely carpentry and a long mouth-watering finish. Aromas of espresso roast, cedar and dark berry fruit segue a persistent wash of tangy black currant, black berry and red cherry on the palate. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a juicy aftertaste that’s brimming with good berry fruit. You wouldn’t go wrong with 2 or 3. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino ‘Santedame’ Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (523076) 13.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard, semi-transparent, ruby-hued Sangiovese is redolent with aromas of red fruit, floral and earthy notes. Aged 6 months in oak, it’s smooth and subtly structured, textured and focused. Dry, medium bodied, the dominant flavour is red fruits, refreshing acidity with underlying minerality. There’s a hint of white pepper on the lengthy finish. Choose this for your next vegetable lasagna or eggplant parmigiana or cellar 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Vintages (released recently with limited stock still in stores)
Ruhlmann Cuvée Jean-Charles 2009
AOC Alsace, France $19.95 (249631) 12.5% alcohol
Hand picked and whole-berry pressed, this value-packed beauty dishes up an amazing array of heady aromas with honeyed peach, spiced tropical fruit and citrus predominant. Racy and boisterous on the palate there’s a riveting spine of acidity riding tangy lemon and sharp pineapple while ripe tropical fruit provides balance and a sweet and tang experience. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking flavour. Mussels steamed in white wine or spicy Asian would pair well. (Vic Harradine)
New in Consignment Wine
Espanillo ‘Spanillo’ Airén 2010
DO La Mancha, Spain $9.95 11.0% alcohol
Airén was once estimated to be the world’s most planted grape in terms of surface area. Planted almost exclusively in Spain, here’s a wonderful opportunity to sample a very good example—unique aromas and flavours dazzle the senses. Exotic aromas of quince jelly and spice-laden, mature, tropical fruit infuse the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s fleshy and food friendly pairing well with seafood and pasta in cream sauce. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
Cantine Polvanera ‘14’ Primitivo 2008
DOC Gioia del Colle, Italy $17.00 14.0% alcohol
Urban legend has it Italian Primitivo was first identified as a preferred varietal in this DOC by priest Francesco Indellicati in the late 1700s. Cherry cola, exotic incense and tobacco leaf on the nose, this medium-bodied, tangy red forms a ribbon of racy flavour with char, red berry, cranberry and sour cherry to the fore. It’s nicely textured with a dry mouth-watering finish showing wisps of tannin. It pours well with meat-laden pizza. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
Château Reynier Bordeaux 2009
AOC Bordeaux, France $14.50 12.0% alcohol
This dishes up a delightful, delicious mouthful of value-laden red Bordeaux. Aromas of sandalwood and rich, dark cherry roll from this medium-bodied nicely textured gem. The palate’s treated to a persistent wash of tangy, bright cherry and red currant mingling with supple ripe tannin and savoury spice. The dry aftertaste lingers with good balance. It’s even better poured alongside roast beef. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
Finca Sanguijuela ‘Conarte’ 2006
DO Sierras de Málaga, Spain $43.70 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo —hailing from Serranía de Ronda, was hand harvested spending 12 months in French and American oak and produced organically. Aromas of spice, underbrush and plum jam segue a mouthful of flavour brimming with prune, raisin and super-ripe dark berry fruit. It’s mid weight with flavours replaying on the extended fruit-forward aftertaste. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan