November 12, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Best Buys $6.95 and under – Wow! Casal Thaulero with two red blends at $6.95, one with 3½ stars, the other 4 stars, found under New in LCBO Portfolio following the Main Release
• Best Buys $13.95 and under – Lillet Blanc Fortified – Aperitif $13.95 with 4 stars - Bertani Soave 2010 Italy $11.80 with 4 stars under LCBO Portfolio - Zidela Shiraz 2009 South Africa $12.75 with 4 stars under Private Order
• Best Buys $14.95 – Henry’s Drive ‘Pillar Box Red’ 2008 Australia $14.95 with 4 stars - Delas Frères ‘Saint-Esprit’ Côtes du Rhône 2009 $14.95 with 4½ stars - Agriverde ‘Riseis’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008 $14.95 with 4 stars - Bodegas De Los Rios Prieto ‘Prios Maximus Roble’ Spain 2009 $14.95 with 4 stars - Vidal-Fleury Côtes du Rhône 2007 $14.95 with 4 stars under LCBO Portfolio - Kato Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough $14.95 with 4½ stars under LCBO Portfolio

Remembrance Day Hours for the LCBO: LCBO stores will open at noon on Remembrance Day, Friday, November 11 and remain open until normal closing hours. The exception is the City of Ottawa, where LCBO stores will not open until 12:30 p.m. due to Remembrance Day events in the National Capital Region. LCBO agency stores observe their normal hours of business on November 11. The LCBO Head Office will be closed Friday, November 11.

This winecurrent newsletter reviews +80 wines in the order of the Main Release then in various categories following that. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted by Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday.

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Quinta De Ventozelo ‘10 Year Old’ Tawny Port
DOC Douro $29.95 (141044) 20.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, iodine and raisined fruit aromas open this mahogany-hued Tawny presaging a glorious rush of sweet, delectable flavour—butterscotch, nutty tones and Christmas cake spice adorned with sweet treacle and a fully textured mouth feel. There’s good value and excellent versatility her—enjoy with salty, aged, hard cheese, crème brûlée or simply on its own as dessert in a glass. (Vic Harradine)


Taylor Fladgate ‘Chip Dry’ White Port
DO Douro $19.95 (164111) 20.0% alcohol
Two ounces of this with an equal amount of tonic or soda over ice with a sprig of mint, and you’ve the makings of a lovely, value-laden welcoming drink for guests, maximum two given the 20% alcohol. There are many flavours—vanilla, nutty notes and honeyed apple and pear—to enjoy while sipping away at this. Be the first in your crowd to serve it. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Osborne Pedro Ximenez ‘1827’ Sweet Sherry
DO Jerez $17.95 (047944) 17.0% alcohol
Sherry conjures up images of ‘cooking sherry’ and tippling Aunt Matilda … pity. It’s a delicious, sophisticated, misunderstood wine and Sherry drinkers love it that way; it keeps the price ridiculously low. This is sweet, viscous and brimming with flavour and charm—toffee, nutty nuances and desiccated berry fruit interlaced with spice and raisins. It pours well on its own as the dessert or alongside blue cheese, custards or dark, spiced fruit cake. Pick up a bottle, serve chilled, let me know what you think. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Aperitif

Lillet Blanc
Bordeaux $13.95 (322297) 17.0% alcohol
Golden-hued with a peachy note, this aperitif wine is a blend of Bordeaux wine and citrus liqueurs which has been produced since the late 1800s. It has engaging aromas and flavours of tropical fruit—mango with a squeeze of lime comes to mind—and orange-lemon marmalade. A spine of tangy acidity awakens the palate and acts as counterpoint to the ripe succulent fruit. Exotic spice and candied orange rind linger on the warm finish. Serve well chilled with a slice of orange, lemon or lime. (Susan Desjardins)

Dessert Wine

Lenz Moser ‘Prestige’ Trockenbeerenauslese Prädikatswein 2008
Burgenland $19.95 (729657) 375 mL 10.0% alcohol
Golden-hued, tending to amber, this was produced from select botrytis-affected berries. This harmonious well-balanced dessert wine is rich with aromas of preserved peach, apricot jam and fruit marmalade. Full bodied, luscious and satiny in texture, the apricot replays with tangerine joining the chorus, providing a perfect counterpoint of tang and honey. The underlying structure delivers a refreshing lift on the lengthy fruit-filled finish. Enjoy on its own or match it to apple strudel with crème anglaise. (Susan Desjardins)


Antolini Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Recioto della Valpolicella $27.95 (135533) 500 mL13.5% alcohol
For an unusual dessert wine, try this harmonious Recioto, produced from the same 3 grapes as Amarone. The grapes were dried for 130 days, pressed, fermented on the skins for 30 days then aged for a year. Deep and dense, it’s vinous, spicy, sweet and fresh. Black cherry and rich, dark, spiced, dried fruit flavours bathe the palate while elusive notes of dark chocolate and pepper garnish the mouth-watering, fresh, fruity finish. Enjoy with a selection of mature cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Icewine

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Icewine 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (672402) 200 mL 9.5% alcohol
A pretty, pale, cranberry colour, this is a vibrant scrumptious wine offering aromas and flavours of homemade strawberry-rhubarb jam, raspberry, fresh floral notes and a whiff of sweet vanilla. Tangy and sweet, in perfect counterpoint, the lively acidity assures the fresh texture with the depth and richness of fruit delivering a luscious smooth finish that leaves a gentle residual warmth. Delicious, so sip it on its own, or if you must, serve it with a cranberry pecan tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

Moët & Chandon ‘Brut Grand Vintage’ Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $81.95 (69773) 12.5% alcohol
Toasty, leesy, citrus aromas introduce this top-drawer selection that’s just beginning its long journey toward optimum drinking. There’s a profusion of bubbles carrying zesty citrus, crisp, green apple and racy white grapefruit flavours. It’s astringent for now, needing a few years to flesh out and develop those desirable autolytic characters. Cellar until 2015 then enjoy for the following ten or so years. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Closson Chase ‘Beamsville Bench’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (230904) 13.1% alcohol
Crafted by winemaker Deborah Paskus is enough information to pick it up on faith. Heady aromas float from the glass with toasty notes, vanilla, minerality and caramel among them. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, beautifully balanced and brimming with complex, layered, rich and luscious flavour—ripe nectarine, white peach and lemon custard joined by crisp, refreshing acidity on the lingering aftertaste. It’s wonderful now and better in a couple of years when it really comes into its own. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $32.00 (068817) 13.0% alcohol
Smoke, oak and toffee on the nose, this rips into high gear on the palate with a powerful surge of palate-coating, delectable flavour—apple-pie spice, sweet vanilla, and oodles of tropical fruit adorned with lemon zest and nutty notes. It’s balanced with deftly integrated oak sporting a monumentally lengthy finish with ripe apple, marzipan and excellent moderating acidity to the fore. From a top-drawer winery and winemaker, this is well paced, well priced and simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $30.00 (33936) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, oak and toasty notes dominate the nose while there’s a delightful mélange of palate-washing flavours—crisp green apple, ripe pear and vanilla notes garnished with yellow plum and butterscotch. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, balanced aftertaste boasting of vanilla, toffee and citrus zest. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it also pours well with a roast bird or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery ‘Estate Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (253518) 375 mL 13.0% alcohol
Heady involved aromas of spice-infused pear, apricot and toasty notes provide segue to silky smooth waves of tangy delectable nectar—key lime, pineapple and white grapefruit mingling with toasty notes. This is a medium-full bodied, value-laden gem sporting a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Excellent sipping now, it’ll improve in bottle over the next 12 months. Paired perfectly with ris de veau in Champagne sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Gold Series’ Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (255901) 13.8% alcohol
Restrained aromas of berries, cherries, spice and toast drift from the glass of this dry, medium-full bodied red. Alluring and complex flavours of red fruit, spice, cedar, and espresso bathe the palate while perceptible tannin and lively acidity provide the requisite frame. The bright tangy texture ensures a long, fresh finish where that hint of espresso lingers. Try it with balsamic-marinated steak and grilled veggies, now or over the next couple of years. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

Burrowing Owl Syrah 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $41.95 (73072) 15.0% alcohol
Deep purple, offering sweet spicy notes, ripe red and black fruit with wisps of toasty vanilla, this well-structured red is robust and savoury. Dry and medium-full bodied, delightful peppery notes garnish the juicy flavour-packed black berry and cherry. Toasty notes linger on the finish and the fresh texture and perceptible tannin create a wine designed for robust meat dishes or for medium-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Mission Hill ‘Quatrain’ 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $41.95 (218636) 14.0% alcohol
Following on the heels of the 2006 featured in March 15 Vintages release, this blend of Merlot, Syrah and the Cabernets is composed of the estate’s best south-Okanagan fruit, separately fermented and aged in French oak. Highly aromatic and intense, the nose offers boysenberry, black cherry, spiced floral notes, and sweet cedar. Built on a firm frame, this dry, full-bodied blend delivers depth and complexity, flavours of cassis, plum, spice and herbs and notes of toast that carry through on the long finish. Serve with robust meat dishes or age a further 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Beringer ‘Sbragia Limited Release’ Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $54.95 (079178) 15.2% alcohol
Charm and elegance mark this lovely Chardonnay. There’s a spry, lively nose of minerality, citrus and floral notes providing segue for a balanced, flavour-packed current of buttery flavour—honeyed apple, sweet vanilla and tropical fruit galore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a finish wreathed in spice-infused yellow plum and good moderating acidity contributing to the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pour with roast fowl or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)


Far Niente ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2009
Napa Valley $64.95 (539130) 14.0% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful with a lengthy finish, one hardly goes wrong with Far Niente.
Caramel, toasty and toffee notes mingle with nutty nuances on the perfumed nose. Spice-laden peach, pear and apple interweave with lemon-lime zest bathing the plate with persistent layered waves of flavour. It’s complex and charming, medium-full bodied and generously textured with a lengthy balanced finish. Drinking well now on its own or easily paired with chicken Kiev or veal tetrazzini. (Vic Harradine)


Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2009
Napa Valley $18.95 (136382) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of orchard fruit dominate, complemented by hints of spice and toast. Dry, round and buttery, this medium-full bodied Chardonnay delights on the palate with a replay of spice, toast and a zesty twist of citrus complementing the delectable pear and peach. A suggestion of caramel apple graces the lengthy finish. Good to sip and versatile enough to enjoy with a range of seafood, white meats or a cheese board. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: White Wine

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009
Willamette Valley $18.95 (940528) 13.0% alcohol
Whole-cluster pressed, aged sur lie, blended with a touch of Muscat and Pinot Blanc, this Pinot Gris evokes the sun-ripened fruits of summer. Delicate floral aromas and the scent of ripe orchard fruit drift from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s rich, ample and refreshing, the ripe fruit matched by a seam of fine acidity and a trace of minerality. Smooth and delivering a lasting fruity finish, this is a well-crafted wine that gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Belle Glos ‘Meiomi’ Pinot Noir 2009
Sonoma Valley/Monterey County/Santa Barbara County $26.95 (130138) 13.9% alcohol
Semi-opaque and ruby hued, this is a dry mid-weight Pinot offering layers of aromas and flavour—on the nose, floral and sweet spice, red fruit and a hint of earthiness. There’s deft balance, fine tannin and fresh acidity supporting the rich red cherry/berry flavours. Fine notes of vanilla and cinnamon toast linger on the finish. Enjoy with veal, tomato and mushroom casserole. (Susan Desjardins)


Four Vines ‘Maverick’ Zinfandel 2008
Amador County $27.95 (249300) 14.9% alcohol
Here’s a full-flavoured, hi-toned Zin with good pace and balance. Aromas of spice cake, dark raisin and plummy tones introduce focused, friendly flavours of ripe red and black berry fruit and dark bittersweet chocolate adorned with juicy, tangy red cherry. It’s mid weight with a round and silky mouth feel and closes with a lengthy, balanced surge of cherry/berry flavour infused with spice and espresso roast; it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Silver Label’ Pinot Noir 2009
Monterey County $26.95 (47720) 13.5% alcohol
Hailing from hilltop Monterey vineyards, this semi-transparent ruby Pinot is beautifully fragrant with floral notes, spiced red fruit and the scent of smoked cedar. Dry, medium bodied, juicy and fresh, a fine backbone of acidity underlies the lush, spiced red fruit. Attractively balanced, long and fresh on the finish, this goes well with barbequed salmon or pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)


L’Aventure ‘Optimus Estate’ 2009
Paso Robles $57.95 (683409) 15.8% alcohol
Hedonistic and concentrated, it’s not for the feint of heart. This is rich and viscous with a mélange of gargantuan flavours—ripe, thick, juicy dark berry fruit, spiced black plum compote and kirsch liqueur coat the palate infusing the long finish. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured with a lingering, robust aftertaste garnished by black berry preserve. (Vic Harradine)


Rubicon Estate ‘Cask’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Rutherford, Napa Valley $74.95 (29553) 14.5% alcohol
Subtle and delicate aromas of kitchen spice, berry fruit with wisps of oak waft from this complex and charming Napa Cab. Layers of palate-coating flavours wash in waves with black, juicy Bing cherry, black currant and wisps of cassis predominant. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured sporting a memorable, luxurious finish of dark berry fruit with nuances of char and oaky notes wrapped in a firm tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring with osso bucco, rack of lamb or grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir 2008
Dundee Hills $34.95 (748434) 14.0% alcohol
Light-medium weight and light on its feet, the nose offers up aromas of tar, smoky notes and roasted herbs. Red cherry and red currant bathe the palate interwoven with savoury notes. The dry, lengthy aftertaste is straightforward and nicely balanced showing a bit of grip from still-evolving tannin. Pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2010
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.95 (142836) 14.2% alcohol
From a highly rated producer we see too infrequently, this offers aromas of sweet vanilla, dark toast and hazelnut as precursor to delicate, balanced flavours of crisp green apple, racy citrus and spice-infused yellow plum adorned with toasty notes from well-integrated oak. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and sports a mid-length refreshing aftertaste of lemon zest and ripe pineapple. Good value. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Chardonnay 2010
Mendoza $19.95 (119099) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, floral and redolent of orchard fruit with a whiff of citrus and an underlying note of toast on the nose, this pale-gold Chardonnay is dry, medium-full bodied and creamy. Quite luscious and fresh, the palate offers echoes of the fruit and soft notes of fresh-baked apple pie. It’s a finely crafted gem showing subtly integrated oak and lively fruit flavours. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Maipe ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $17.95 (246116) 14.0% alcohol
Displaying classic aromas of cassis, cedar and spiced vanilla, this dry, medium-full bodied Cab offers a lovely smooth texture. Ripe tannins, fine acidity, a replay of the fruit and spice and a soupcon of herbs grace the palate. Notes of espresso reveal the barrel aging and persist through the ripe, fruit-filled finish. Approachable and appealing, this wine will cellar mid-term. (Susan Desjardins)


Val de Flores Malbec 2005
Mendoza $49.95 (235887) 15.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, red cherry and savoury notes dominate the aromas on this mid-weight, nicely textured Malbec. Balanced rich and robust flavours bathe the palate with charm and panache—black currant, cassis and charred toast among them. The balanced dry finish is lengthy and luxurious layering on a firm tannin underpinning and good moderating acidity to this tidy gem. It’s good to go now with a brief aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes Alpha Syrah 2009
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (000612) 14.5% alcohol
Great balance, good value and rich, succulent flavour mark this as well worth a second look. Heady aromas of charred toast, blueberry and pipe tobacco waft easily presaging juicy, tangy Bing cherry, black plum and cassis flavours that swagger across the palate and dominate the dry lengthy, tannin-infused aftertaste. It’s mid weight and fully textured promising another half-dozen years of optimum drinking. Aerate/decant an hour or two before sipping on its own or pouring alongside grilled steak, hearty stew or game. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Maipo Valley $17.95 (684597) 14.5% alcohol
Showing a big masculine character, this dense wine delivers warm aromas of cedar, rich ripe flavours—cassis to the fore—and a dash of spice. Dry and full bodied with grippy tannin and fresh acidity framing well-ripened black fruit, smoky, toasty notes add complexity. The finish is long and tinged with a note of espresso. Offered in environmentally friendly, light-weight glass, this wine pairs well with barbequed meats or grilled Portobello mushrooms with balsamic dressing. (Susan Desjardins)


Viña Chocolan Syrah ‘Reserva’ 2008
Maipo Valley $14.95 (38513) 14.0% alcohol
Dry, deep ruby with violet notes, this mid-weight red delivers lovely floral aromas and flavours of vanilla, boysenberry jam, toast and steeped tea. Loaded with dark fruit and spiced vanilla, it shows great vitality, good structure and hints of cocoa and toast on the finish. Pick up a few bottles to savour by the fire with roast lamb or a hearty beef stew. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Cat Amongst the Pigeons ‘Nine Lives’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (093138) 14.9% alcohol
My pick for best-value Aussie red in a while, it delivers a beguiling nose of exotic spice, black currant and peppery notes. It’s silky smooth, fleshy and well balanced boasting a steady current of palate-bathing flavour—tangy cherry and juicy black currant adorned with spice and black licorice. It finishes lengthy, balanced and lip-smacking good. Pick up a couple or three. (Vic Harradine)


d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $54.95 (981183) 15.0% alcohol
Gorgeous aromas of cedar, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate percolate from this rich and complex gem while flavours of ripe, juicy, black cherry and sweet ripe mulberry mingle with delicate fennel and herbal nuances on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied, with good mouth feel, deft balance and excellent moderating acidity. It finishes lengthy with spice and tang to the fore. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring alongside rack of lamb and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)


Hazyblur ‘The Baroota’ Shiraz 2007
Baroota, South Flinders, South Australia $28.95 (52126) 15.0% alcohol
Rich and alluring from the get-go, perfumed aromas of exotic spice, charred toast and peppery notes intersperse with dark cherry/berry to dominate the nose. Complex and layered waves of fruity flavours wash over the palate with juicy, black Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur interweaving with wood smoke and excellent moderating acidity. Mid weight and nicely textured, the long aftertaste layers on kitchen spice and peppery notes. (Vic Harradine)


Henry’s Drive ‘Pillar Box Red’ 2008
Padthaway, South Australia $14.95 (685941) 14.5% alcohol
Never missing the 4-star mark, this is vinified from fruit sourced from 3 sites in the cool-ish Padthaway region of South Australia allowing this predominantly Shiraz blend to attain natural balance. Rich and luscious spice-infused flavours of ripe mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and hints of mint and black licorice coat the palate and dominate the lingering aftertaste. This is very good value.(Vic Harradine)


Kilikanoon ‘Parable’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $39.95 (059824) 14.5% alcohol
One of Kilikanoon’s regional offerings, this McLaren Vale Shiraz doesn’t disappoint. There are oodles of perfumed aromas with ripe dark berry fruit, espresso roast, underbrush and savoury notes predominant. Complex and layered on the palate, look for firm and focused flavours of sweet, ripe mulberry and peppery black plum moderated by good acidity underlain with a solid tannin presence. It finishes dry, mouth watering and lengthy. Give it a couple more years or aerate/decant for two or three hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)


Mollydooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2008
South Australia $34.95 (246595) 16.0% alcohol
This hedonistic, hi-octane crowd pleaser brims with sweet jammy fruit—black currant preserve, black plum compote and mulberry jam. It’s concentrated, full bodied, generously textured and sports a long finish replaying a surge of flavours from the palate garnished with spice-infused briary berry. A wine that could be also enjoyed as one would a Port, in small quantities with aged hard cheese after a meal. (Vic Harradine)


Stalking Horse Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale $17.95 (251215) 15.0% alcohol
Aged in new American oak, inky and voluptuous, the aromas of vanilla, sweet spice, rich ripe black fruit and an elusive smoky note leap from the glass. Fruit forward—think boysenberry jam and blackberries—it has a distinctive note of black licorice, a smooth, velvety texture and subtle structure. An ample, rich wine offering a sweetly spiced warm finish, enjoy it now and over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)


Two Hands ‘Zippy’s Block Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $59.00 (089516) 16.4% alcohol
This behemoth is a sure crowd pleaser with thick, juicy, deeply concentrated juice flowing into and out of the glass. There’s high alcohol, ripe jammy fruit and a round fleshy texture—Barossa Shiraz on steroids. Full bodied and fully flavoured with palate-coating rich ripe cherry and black currant on the palate, it continues to strut through the lengthy, powerful finish wreathed with briary berry jam and garnished with fennel, espresso roast and spice. Paired well with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Kumeu River ‘Mate’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
Auckland, North Island $44.95 (204032) 13.5% alcohol
This is a delightful drop from one NZs premium producers. Aromas of racy citrus, wood smoke and alluring nutty notes fill the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured Chard. The palate’s bathed with a persistent current of key lime pie and lemon custard adorned with ripe apple and pear all riding a serious backbone of crisp acidity. A bit astringent for now, give it another two years then uncork with roast turkey or a creamed chicken dish. (Vic Harradine)


Spy Valley Gewürztraminer 2010
Marlborough $19.95 (32870) 14.0% alcohol
A brilliant yellow-green, proffering attractive floral and tropical notes with a hint of citrus zest, this medium-bodied Kiwi is just off-dry, fresh and fruity. Lychee, stone fruit and citrus mingle to create a long, tasty finish. It’s a fine match for spicy Thai cuisine. (Susan Desjardins)


Wither Hills ‘Wairau Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol
A quiet nose of grassy notes and passion fruit aromas provide segue to a complex and layered rush of palate-coating flavour with ripe, sweet nectarine, tangy citrus and hints of gooseberry to the fore. It’s mid weight with a silky-smooth, generous texture and lingering aftertaste of tropical fruit juxtaposed with lip-smacking citrus tang. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Framingham Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (699322) 14.0% alcohol
Smoke, oak and red cherry aromas billow from this hi-toned, well-balanced Pinot. There’s a mid-weight, nicely textured current of sweet ripe fruit over the palate—mulberry and raspberry—interlaced with savoury herbs and gamy notes. The lengthy balanced aftertaste is underpinned by still-evolving tannin—aerate/decant two hours then pour with rosemary-rubbed, roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Sileni ‘The Plateau’ Pinot Noir 2009
Hawkes Bay $17.95 (132142) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby and earthy with the scent of cherry/berry fruit and a hint of sweet spice on the nose, here’s solid value. Dry and medium bodied, it exhibits clean texture and great harmony with tangy spiced red fruit, lively acidity and soft tannin—this is a versatile wine that will go well with chicken paprika with dumplings or coho salmon and risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Domaines Schlumberger ‘Kessler’ Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $25.95 (061176) 13.0% alcohol
Schlumberger has amassed a large holding in Alsace over the past 100 years primarily from thousands of micro vineyards abandoned by growers with some plots dating back to Roman times—this wine is from ‘Kessler’, a highly prized ‘Grand Cru’ vineyard. Floral, citrus and slate dominate the nose along with nuances of petrol. Ripe fruit—white peach and nectarine—are quickly matched with a laser-like spine of lemon-lime acidity on the mid-palate and lingering, dry, mineral-infused aftertaste. This sweet and tang is delightful sipped on its own and heavenly paired with spicy Asian cuisine. Drink now to +2020. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Fongaban 2006
AOC Côtes de Castillon $16.95 (138735) 12.5% alcohol
Opening with an alluring nose of mixed spice and dark berry fruit, the palate’s treated to a wash of black berry, spice and cassis that’s peeking out from under a solid tannin structure. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured with a dry, fruity finish. A three-hour decant will make it more accessible, as will a couple of years in the cellar. Either way, you can’t argue with the price. (Vic Harradine)


Château le Caillou 1998
AOC Pomerol $49.95 (45682) 12.5% alcohol
A burnished, garnet hue, this Merlot-dominated blend offers attractive value. Evolved aromas of dried fruit, plum, earth, leather and cedar waft from the glass. Dry and medium bodied, it flows across the palate with a silky fresh texture. The flavours are subtle—dried cherries, plum, cedar and spice—while the tannin’s pliant and polished. Still fresh acidity persists through a mid-length finish. Sample on its own or savour with a light meat dish topped with sautéed, mixed wild mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Malescot St. Exupery 2008
AOC Margaux, 3e Cru $64.00 (136630) 13.5% alcohol
On balance, the price-quality ratio’s skewed well in your favour—this is complex and charming with an impeccable pedigree and age on its side. Berry fruit, cedar and char on the nose, the palate’s coated with a wash of sweet cassis, black cherry and mocha carried along on a silky smooth mouth feel. It’s medium bodied with a balanced fruity finish and supple tannin underpinning. Drink one now with a two-hour aeration then pop another cork in 2020 to experience and enjoy its development. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2006
AOC Saint-Émilion $19.95 (979955) 12.5% alcohol
Approachable now, this delivers a warm, round mouthful of succulent fruit, moderate, sweet tannin and a fruit-forward aftertaste. Aromas of dark plum jam, succulent black, juicy Bing cherry and spice are replayed on the palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length fruity finish. Easy sipping on its own, it pours well with spicy, smoked and barbecued ribs. (Vic Harradine)


La Croix de Carbonnieux 2008
AOC Pessac-Léognan $28.95 (241232) 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of sandalwood, roasted herbs and piquant spice dominate the nose. It’s smooth and silky on the palate with oodles of sweet cassis, ripe, fleshy dark cherry and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and well textured, the aftertaste is lengthy and memorable with moderating acidity balancing the ripe fruit and supple tannin adding structure. Give it a go with osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)


La Gravette de Certan 2008
AOC Pomerol $49.00 (187278) 13.5% alcohol
Mocha and espresso roast aromas provide segue to a splash of rich, spry flavours with red currant, sour cherry and cassis to the fore. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, this finishes dry with good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin on the finish. Good to go now with a three-hour aeration/decant or wait until 2014 and beyond pairing with lamb shanks and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)


René Bouvier ‘La Justice’ Gevrey-Chambertin 2008
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $44.95 (241075) 13.0% alcohol
Rose petals, leather and mixed field berry fruit aromas introduce this mid-weight, tangy Pinot. A racy, juicy river of red currant and sour cherry wash over the palate melding with dark coffee and hints of zesty blood orange. There’s a hint of kitchen spice and herbs on the aftertaste mingling with those racy red fruit flavours. Pour with Swiss steak or veal scaloppini. (Vic Harradine)


Delas Frères ‘Saint-Esprit’ Côtes du Rhône 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (729962) 13.5% alcohol
Predominantly Syrah blended with Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, this deep-violet-hued, Rhône blend is fresh and vibrant on the nose—raspberry and boysenberry to the fore with a hint of vanilla and a whiff of garrigue. This is dry, medium-full bodied, beautifully balanced and structured. It delivers a wash of lively fruit across the palate garnished with a lingering peppery note then a fresh, crisp finish. At this price—it earned an extra half star for value—what’s not to like? (Susan Desjardins)


E. Guigal Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (331900) 14.0% alcohol
A top-notch producer and a great Rhône valley vintage coalesce in a rich and complex, primarily Grenache, red blend. Char, spice box and field berry aromas provide segue to a juicy, layered and well-balanced river of sweet, ripe mulberry, tangy sour cherry and succulent bramble berry. This is medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lengthy finish replaying flavours adorned with ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Georgia: Red Wine

Teliani Valley ‘Alazani Valley’ Red Semi-Sweet 2008
Georgia $12.95 (143578) 12.0% alcohol
There are many semi-sweet wines in the world, many fortified and high alcohol and most are expensive. This is from what’s thought of as the birthplace of wine with reasonable alcohol and a more-than-reasonable price. Dark currant and cherry aromas mingle with exotic spice on the nose while the palate’s treated to ripe, sweet, current of cherry/berry and dried currants on the palate. This sips well and pairs with red fruit flans. Some wine and meat pairings go wrong because of a sweet Port reduction or fruit sauce—this solves that challenge. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: Red Wine

Lykos Kratistos 2007
AOHQ Nemea $17.95 (061473) 13.5% alcohol
Greek wines are making a splash, making their way on to wine lists of tony restaurants. Ancient vineyards form the backbone of viticulture in Nemea, an important wine region in the Peloponnese area of Greece. Piquant spice, leather and dark juicy plum aromas presage a medium-bodied, silky-smooth textured river of flavour with red and black currant garnished with mixed spice and tobacco leaf to the fore. The dry, layered finish is fruity and nicely balanced. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Agriverde ‘Riseis’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $14.95 (134478) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this round and ready red tips well in your favour. Lively aromas of spice, red berry fruit and dried herbs introduce a smooth, mellow, beautifully textured wave of briary berry, strawberry and spice-laden black plum. Mid-full weight and well balanced, the lengthy finish is tangy, juicy and lip-smacking good. Sip on its own or pour alongside pasta in tomato-meat sauce, meat-laden pizza or spaghetti alla puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Gemma ‘Colarej’ Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (232447) 14.0% alcohol
The pale-garnet colour portends the subtlety and elegance of this Piemonte Nebbiolo. A restrained bouquet of smoky notes, earth and spice tantalize the senses. The expressive flavours of aged, ripe fruit build to a crescendo on the finish, balanced by fresh acidity and a fine tannic structure. Polished, dry, appealingly fruity, this is a deftly made wine—an outstanding value that will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Poderi Colla Bussia Dardi ‘Le Rose’ Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $52.95 (596890) 14.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, rosewood and cherry aromas introduce a gusher of black currant and black raspberry washing over the palate on the back of excellent moderating acidity. It’s medium-full bodied and fully flavoured with a lengthy, luxurious aftertaste laced with fennel supported by a good lick of still-evolving tannin. Pour 2015 to 2025 after a two-hour aeration decant alongside roast leg of lamb or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)


Sampietrana ‘Vigna Delle Monache Riserva’ Salice Salentino 2006
DOC Salice Salentino $15.95 (247908) 13.5% alcohol
Delivering pleasure in a glass, here’s a red with no hard edges and a straightforward delivery of sweet fruity wine that’s balanced and delicious. Cherry cordial and kitchen spice aromas on the nose introduce nicely balanced, ripe, sweet cherry/berry fruit garnished with espresso roast and dark plum. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length, tangy, fruit-filled aftertaste . (Vic Harradine)


Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $27.95 (650754) 13.5% alcohol
The lifted nose is rich and alluring with a boatload of aromas including dark berry fruit and charred toast garnished with sprigs of herbs and mixed spice. Smooth and mellow on the palate there’s a persistent wash of black plum compote plus red and black currant mingling with espresso roast and black licorice. It finishes lengthy and well balanced with a dusting of perceptible tannin. Good to go now after a couple of hours aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Ornellaia ‘Le Serre Nuove dell Ornellaia’ 2009
DOC Bolgheri $59.95 (606194) 14.5% alcohol
This offers a world of value—for yourself or for gifting—and rates your attention. Considered ‘second label’ to their iconic ‘Ornellaia’—this was hand picked, hand sorted, and vinified by individual vineyard before being blended. It’s primarily Merlot-54% and Cabernet Sauvignon-31% with bits of Petit Verdot-10% and Cabernet Franc-5%. It’s not far off its big brother in quality—basic difference is younger vines—at one-third the price. Red cherry, spice box and cedar on the nose followed by a gorgeous explosion of juicy, ripe fruit with black currant and cassis to the fore. Medium-full bodied with a silky smooth mouth feel the lingering fruit-forward finish wreathed in charm, balance and a solid tannin structure. Good to go now and, with careful cellaring, on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (930966) 14.5% alcohol
A classic wine that’s been offered for almost 4 decades, it has evolved with the Zingarelli family winery. Aged 24 months in French oak, this Sangiovese is blended with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Semi-transparent ruby, alluring aromas of sweet, ripe fruit, vanilla and spice rise from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, the wine is appealing and approachable, offering deeply flavourful red fruit and spice. A silky texture, fresh acidity and ripe tannin complete the package. Palate pleasing, well structured and finishing long, this will cellar medium term or can be enjoyed now with veal parmigiana. (Susan Desjardins)


Ruffino Modus 2007
IGT Toscana $28.95 (912956) 13.5% alcohol
From another highly reputable Tuscan producer, here’s a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, each wine aged separately then blended. Inky, almost black, the brooding aromas are dense, red and black fruit, mocha, sweet spice, herbs and toast. Dry, full bodied, the palate delivers great depth of berry fruit, notes of toast and vanilla, the rich flavours framed by a firm tannin structure and refreshing acidity. A swell of spicy notes and a hint of toast adorn the lengthy finish. Designed for cellaring, this value-laden wine should be decanted now or cellared for a special occasion 2-3 years hence and beyond. (Susan Desjardins)


Tenuta San Guido ‘Guidalberto’ 2009
IGT Toscana $49.95 (072439) 14.0% alcohol
Delivering a solid mouthful of layered, complex flavours, this is balanced and beautiful throughout. Opening with a gorgeous nose of cedar, exotic spice and fresh lively cherry aromas, it coats the palate in a tangy, juicy style with oodles of sour cherry and cranberry that fleshes out on the back palate with spice-driven ripe mulberry and black currant flavours. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and blessed with balanced fruity aftertaste garnished with spice and tangy red berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Oreno’ 2008
IGT Toscana $74.95 (735597) 14.5% alcohol
Lilac, red berry fruit, graphite and a mélange of spice aromas presage a complex, layered red blend—Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese—with depth, oodles of charm and pure pleasure. This is mid weight with good mouth feel and a persistent river of ripe fruit—cherry, currant and briary berry—bathing the palate in waves. The lengthy finish is balanced with juicy tangy fruit and deftly integrated oak while cloaked in perceptible tannin. Lay down for a few years, drinking between 2016 and 2022. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $69.95 (462812) 15.5% alcohol
The name ‘Masi’ is as close to an iron-clad seal of quality you’ll get in the world of wine. Delightful aromas abound with fig, raisins and dried herbs interlaced with aromatic bitters on this rich and luxurious Amarone. It bathes the palate with viscous waves of black plum compote, kirsch and spice-laden black juicy cherry. It’s medium-full bodied, silky textured and brimming with great moderating acidity and that tell-tale Amarone bite on the luscious, lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas De Los Rios Prieto ‘Prios Maximus Roble’ 2009
DO Ribera del Duero $14.95 (103432) 13.5% alcohol
Hand picked and hand crafted from 40-year-old vines, this 100% Tempranillo sports lifted aromas of dark chocolate, kitchen spice, berry fruit and mocha. It washes over the palate with a persistent stream of black berry and red cherry tang bolstered by adornments of spice box and nuances of cassis. Well balanced with smooth as satin texture, the long finish is mouth-watering and simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Duque de Medina ‘Gran Reserva’ 2000
DO Cariñena $18.95 (148494) 12.5% alcohol
Ruby with a touch of garnet, this mellow, decade-old red displays an evolved bouquet and mellow flavours. A bouquet of floral and autumnal notes, a hint of leather and subtle sweet, ripened fruit drift from the glass. Showcasing a velvety, medium-full bodied texture, the taste experience is all about restraint and integration—melting tannin and fresh red fruit acidity melding with hints of sweet spice and cocoa. Very appealing with good complexity and easy to drink, there’s a lingering, slightly warm finish to be sipped on its own or alongside bison bourguignon. (Susan Desjardins)


Señorio De P. Peciña ‘Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (082156) 13.5% alcohol
Leather, tomato leaf and spice-infused dark plum and cherry dominate the alluring nose while a persistent current of sour cherry, savoury herbs and dried currant washes over the palate. It’s light-medium weight with nice texture replaying flavours on the mid-length, supple tannin finish adorned by lip-smacking tanginess. Poured well with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: January 21, 2012

Fontanafredda Barolo ‘Riserva’ 2005
DOCG Barolo, Italy $49.95 (967141) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, earthiness and lovely lilac aromas provide introduction to this beautifully sculpted, complex and layered red. The palate’s bathed with a stream of tangy, racy red currant and sour cherry that fleshes out to a broad wash of layered blueberry and ripe mulberry flavours. It’s medium bodied with good texture and long, complex finish underpinned by ripe sweet tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: March 31, 2012

Tedeschi ‘Monte Olmi’ Amarone delle Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Amarone delle Valpolicella $69.95 (964403) 16.0% alcohol
This flagship, single-vineyard gem tops out at16% alcohol with all the accessories to pull it off—excellent balance, good weight, generous texture and a gusher of palate-coating flavour that brims with charm and elegance. It’s heady on the nose and palate with rich, complex flavours of fig, raisin and plum compote while the lengthy luxurious aftertaste layers on warm spice and coffee notes—as good as Amarone gets. (Vic Harradine) 

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Bertani Soave 2010
DOC Soave, Italy $11.80 (231860) 12.0% alcohol
The yellow hue alerts you this may be special—it’s a lovely Soave that’s value-packed; brimming with flavour, balance and a long, crisp, refreshing finish. Floral, spice and nutty nuances on the nose, a palate-washing river treats the palate—ripe pineapple, nectarine and racy citrus. It’s mid-weight and nicely textured with a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Caliterra ‘Reserva’ 2011
DO Valle de Casablanca, Chile $8.95 (275909) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of sweet herbs and floral notes introduce a sweet, ripe mouthful of fruit—white peach, pear and hints of citrus. It’s medium bodied with good texture sporting a finish that tends toward sweet. Good to pour as an aperitif or pair with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai or spicy Asian noodles and chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Casal Thaulero Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
IGP Terre di Chieti, Italy $6.95 (621953) 13.0% alcohol
Funky aromas of cedar, earthy leaves and cherry cordial introduce this long-on-value red blend. There’s a very pleasant splash of tangy, juicy, red berry and red cherry fruit flavour with notes of sweet strawberry along for the ride. It’s well balanced, nicely textured and finishes with tangy, savoury notes. Versatile at the table, pour with pasta, burgers, pizza or a deli-meat platter. (Vic Harradine)


Casal Thaulero Sangiovese 2010
IGP Terre di Chieti, Italy $6.95 (588996) 13.0% alcohol
This is pretty amazing—it’s under $7 and tastes like it’s at least $12.—easily earning a half star on value. Ripe cherry, sandalwood and mixed spice on the nose it spills over the palate with a balanced wash of spice-laden ripe cherry and dark berry flavour. It’s food friendly, mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish; what are you waiting for? (Vic Harradine)


Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo Edición’ Tempranillo 2009
DO Navarra, Spain $11.95 (255877) 13.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit and savoury herb aromas flow easily from this light-on-its-feet bistro-styled red. It washes the palate with dark, red cherry and dark berry fruit garnished with handfuls of savoury herbs. It sports a fruity mid-length aftertaste. Pours well with meat-laden pizza, pasta in tomato sauce and mac and cheese with hot salsa. (Vic Harradine)


Kato Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $14.95 (184598) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a beauty that’s just hit its stride with powerful, heady aromas of passion fruit, citrus and grassy notes galore. There’s ripe fruit on the palate with oodles of melon, ripe pineapple interlaced with lip-smacking citrus. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering finish. It’s one of those wines that’s well balanced and delicious delivering more than its fair share of value. (Vic Harradine)


Silver Point Sauvignon Blanc 2009
New Zealand $14.95 (226605) 13.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Pinot is just as light and easy on your wallet, delivering good value. Red currant and pomegranate mingle with spice and strawberry washing over the palate with good acidity and texture for balance and interest. It’s mid weight with a tangy finish that’s looking for food—spaghetti in spicy Bolognese sauce or meat-laden pizza pair well. (Vic Harradine)


Vidal-Fleury Côtes du Rhône 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône, France $14.95 (263897) 14% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, cola and savoury herbs and spice aromas intro this medium-bodied, nicely textured, well-balanced blend. Tangy juicy flavours bathe the palate with black berry, red cherry and spice-laden black plum persisting through the extended aftertaste. Showcasing good Rhône characteristics, it’s a natural with grilled steak, burgers, stews or gourmet sausage. The ’07 Rhône vintage is rated top notch and Vidal-Fleury has seen a few—they’ve been around since 1781. (Vic Harradine)


Wente ‘Southern Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Livermore Valley, California $16.95 (301507) 13.5% alcohol
This is silky smooth and value-packed. Earthy, toasty notes and red cherry aromas spill from the glass while the palate’s treated to waves of red and black currant, milk chocolate and vanilla flavours. This is medium bodied with good mouth feel, deft balance and well-integrated oak. The lingering juicy aftertaste layers on black cherry interlaced with dark coffee and roasted herbs. (Vic Harradine)


Yellow Tail ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2010
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (234609) 14.0% alcohol
Dark cherry, espresso roast and toasty notes on the nose, this delivers a smooth mellow wash of juicy Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur that’s persistent on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a fruit-forward aftertaste laced with ripe black currant and black plum compote. Great sipped on its own and versatile with food—pizza, burgers, gourmet sausage and pasta in meat and tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Yellow Tail ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (234591) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of tropical fruit, floral and sweet vanilla presage awash of of ripe apple, sweet yellow plum and hints of ripe citrus. It’s medium-weight with good mouth feel and a brief finish of apple and pear. Good to pour alone or paired with lighter-styled chicken or veal dishes. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Zidela Shiraz 2009
WO Western Cape, South Africa $12.75 14.0% alcohol
Smoky notes and black currant mingle with wisps of char on the nose. Ripe sweet flavours wash over the palate with briary berry and tangy black currant melding with pleasant hints of ripe, supple tannin. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and deft balance throughout. The lengthy aftertaste is juicy and tangy setting it up for great partnerships with wings, pizza, pasta in tomato sauce or burgers. It’s good value. Order by the case for delivery via agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan