September 17, 2011 Vintages Release
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:Susan poppping the cork on new and exciting Niagara wineries… Read more here
‘The Ontario Table’ - featuring the best food from around the province, is a fabulous new publication by Lynn Ogryzlo. No one in Ontario who cares about what they eat should be without it. Much more than recipes, it offers the how, where and when to purchase local produce, including meat and fish—all indexed along with wine pairings and websites. Great to own, perfect to gift for any occasion; Christmas is just around the corner. Use this link ‘The Ontario Table’ for more information and to order copies.
- Finding Waldo – The anxiously awaited 2009 release of what’s considered Ontario’s top Baco Noir, is reviewed at $24.95 with 4½ stars, and a ‘Winemaker’s Series Barrel Aged’ Pinot Gris 2010 is reviewed at $19.95 with 4½ stars
- Susan Selects - Joseph Cattin Gewürztraminer 2009 under France: White Wine with 4½ stars @ $16.95
- Vic’s Pick – Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot 2008 under Australia: Red Wine with 4 stars @ $14.95
we both loved these - Emiliana ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Syrah/Mourvèdre 2007 with 4½ stars @ $18.95 under Chile: Red Wine and Delicato ‘First Press’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 with 4.5 stars @ $19.95 under California: Red Wine - 5 stars – Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2009 under California: White Wine @ $64.95 and Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2008 under Australia: Red Wine @ $63.95
Feature: 2008 Red Bordeaux
Château Potensac 2008
AOC Médoc $44.95 (235432) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of red berry fruit, kitchen spice and toasty notes dominate the nose. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with great balance and a river of solid flavour on the palate—red cherry, cassis and spiced black plum. It finishes up with tannin-laden berry fruit and good tangy acidity. Cellar until 2013 or drink now with grilled strip loin after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Château Semonlon 2008
AOC Haut-Médoc $17.95 (244475) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot, this is an attractive wine displaying some complexity of aromas—cassis, plum, earthy notes and herbs—that replay on the palate, accented with hints of spice box and toast. Medium bodied and well structured, the acidity levels are a match for the ripe berry fruit, the fine tannins delivering a lasting dry finish and ageability over the next several years. Enjoy with venison tenderloin with mushrooms, or with a bison stew. (Susan Desjardins)
Château Meyney 2008
AOC Saint-Estèphe $47.95 (245811) 13.9% alcohol
Cedar, espresso roast and berry fruit on the nose, it delivers a riveting spine of acidity mingling with tangy red currant and cranberry fruit. It’s medium bodied and quite taut and tight for the moment. The finish delivers racy tangy red fruit with a solid tannin underpinning. Open 2016-2021. (Vic Harradine)
Château Lacoste Borie 2008
AOC Paulliac $39.95 (249011) 13.0% alcohol
Earning its final half star on value, this cellar dweller delivers a delightful red that’s tight with tannin for now and full of fruit and promise—uncork 2015-2020. Complex dark berry fruit, toasty oak and savoury-infused aromas on the nose, the palate’s bathed with cassis and cranberry mingling with savoury herbs and spice. The persistent aftertaste is wrapped firmly in tannin displaying spice-infused dark fruit and good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Château Pontet-Caillou 2008
AOC Pessac-Léognan $27.95 (244095) 13.0% alcohol
As the name suggests, the grapes for this equal blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon come from a gravelly hilltop vineyard. Boasting deep enticing aromas of red and black berries, the year of oak aging comes through in the notes of cinnamon toast. Dry, medium bodied, built on a frame of perceptible tannins and fresh acidity, the well-extracted flavours of tangy cherry, plum, cassis, grilled herbs and earth, persist through the dry finish. Cellar medium term or enjoy now with robust meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)
Château le Grand Moulin Cuvée Collection 2008
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $15.95 (245357) 13.0% alcohol
This award-winning wine gets points for value and approachability. There’s a nuance of vanilla wafting over lovely rich spiced fruit. Dry, mid-weight, it’s subtly structured, silky on the palate and loaded with ripe red cherry/berry flavours, notes of fines herbes and spiced toast garnishing the mid-length finish. Savour now or put some bottles aside to enjoy in the next couple of years. (Susan Desjardins)
Château des Moines 2008
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $22.95 (206789) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque, ruby hued, this Merlot-based Bordeaux delivers aromas of smoky toast, spicy roses, cedar and field berries. There’s a firm, underlying structure, a velvety caressing texture, and an attractive balance of fresh acidity and concentrated flavours of plum, dark berries, spice and roasted peppers. Persistent and dry on the finish, it’s a good candidate for mid-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)
Château Beauregard 2008
AOC Pomerol $57.95 (249003) 13.5% alcohol
This is from the prestigious right-bank area of Pomerol producing some of the finest and most expensive wine in Bordeaux with 2008 a magnificent vintage. There’s ripe berry fruit throughout interlaced with mint and earthy tones. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a grainy tannin-laced aftertaste of ripe fruit and tangy acidity, all boding well for the future. Pop the cork 2015-2020. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Fortified: Dessert Wine
Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage
Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL 15.0% alcohol
Torres has been producing this wine since the 1940s – no wonder it’s so beautifully wrought! Tawny in colour, this lovely dessert wine has high-toned aromas of dried fruits—in particular dried apricots—honey and toast. The texture is rich, sumptuous and honeyed, with pretty notes of orange zest garnishing the dried fruit flavours. It’s full-bodied and opulent with tangy acidity a great foil for the sweetness. The finish is extended and very nicely balanced. It’s a treat on its own or with fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)
Sparkling Wine
Domaine Carneros Brut 2007
Carneros, California $27.95 (301655) 12.0% alcohol
This is a well-priced bubbly from a premium California producer that’s nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing. Toasty, nutty and yeasty aromas dominate the nose while the fine-bead mousse delivers a wash of white peach and pear moderated by refreshingly racy citrus and hints of green apple. Versatile as a welcoming wine or paired with food—try with lighter-styled appetizers like mussels, oysters or chicken kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
Gehringer Brothers ‘Private Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (347203) 13.2% alcohol
Dressed in the pink straw tint of an autumn grass, this is a mouthwateringly delicious wine with tantalizing aromas of stone fruit, honey melon, musky floral and subtle citrus notes. Dry, medium bodied and fresh, fine flavourful orchard fruit rides on a backbone of lively acidity, finishing with a tangy little kick. A versatile wine that’s great value. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay 2007
Arroyo Seco $24.95 (225375) 14.9% alcohol
This got me excited; it’s tremendous value, flavour-laden and well balanced. Golden-yellow hued, a beautiful bouquet of toasty oak, kitchen spice and ripe tropical fruit wafts from the glass. A gorgeous mouthful of sweet ripe tropical fruit, racy pineapple, nutty nuances and excellent moderating acidity bathes the palate and is showcased through the lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and the oak’s well integrated—you could pay a lot more for an awful lot less. (Vic Harradine)
Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2009
Sonoma Coast $64.95 (251223) 14.1% alcohol
It’s complex, balanced with good carpentry and an aura of elegance and charm. There are lifted aromas of smoky, toasty notes and minerality on the nose while the palate’s treated to a stunning array of flavours—crisp green apple, ripe pear, spice-infused pineapple and nectarine mingling with wisps of well-integrated oak. It’s full bodied and silky smooth with a lingering, crisp and refreshing aftertaste; it was also tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
A by Acacia Pinot Noir 2008
California $19.95 (118927) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby in colour, this Pinot Noir has loads of fresh red berry aromas—strawberries, raspberries—and attractive spicy notes. It’s dry, medium bodied and approachable with a food-friendly level of fresh acidity, soft tannin and flavours of sweet red berries and vanilla. The mid-length finish displays consistency of texture and flavour. A nicely-priced wine that would be a good match for grilled salmon or a mushroom risotto. (Susan Desjardins)
Delicato ‘First Press’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $19.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol
Vic and I both loved this. It’s fruit-forward, nicely structured and will benefit from another year in bottle. A dense red, this award-winner compels with aromas of cassis, mint, cedar and vanilla. Intensely fruity, the spicy black berry flavours are complemented with appropriate acidity and firm tannins. Well crafted and balanced, it delivers a warm toasty fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Red Label’ Zinfandel 2009
California $21.95 (708289) 13.5% alcohol
An appealing well-made wine, this Zin offers lifted aromas of ripe black fruit, licorice, spice and pepper. Dry, full bodied, suave and velvety, the combination of polished tannins, fine acidity and focused dark spicy fruit invites another sip. Enjoy it with your favourite grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)
Seghesio ‘Home Ranch’ Zinfandel 2009
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $49.95 (070391) 15.0% alcohol
This is a real treat for Zin lovers from one of the best producers around; it’s rich, flavour-laden and balanced with each sip better than the previous. Lifted aromas of ripe dark berry fruit, exotic spice and espresso roast burst from the glass. The palate-bathing flavours of bramble berry, black currant and kirsch liqueur mingle with bittersweet chocolate and earthy tones. It’s medium-full bodied, fully textured and oozing with charm. The aftertaste lingers, you shouldn’t; it won’t be on shelves long. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
Chehalem ‘3 Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $28.95 (949909) 13.1% alcohol
Pale ruby and alluring, the nose proffers earthy, slightly herbal notes, hints of spice and subtle red berry fruit. Dry, mid-weight, silky and refined, the fresh fruit flavours are focused—raspberry, cherry and blackberry—the notes of spice subtle, the backbone of gentle tannins and fresh acidity a perfect complement. Enjoy the fruit-filled slightly peppery finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Red Shot Lane Pinot Noir 2009
Willamette Valley $18.95 (242560) 13.8% alcohol
Enjoy the earthy red berry aromas and the notion of mineral and smoke that wafts from the glass of this dry, medium-bodied Pinot. Easy drinking and approachable, structured and lively, there’s a load of fresh red fruit—raspberry and cherry—and delicate notes of spice and toast adding complexity through the mid-length finish. Nicely crafted and well priced. (Susan Desjardin)
Argentina: Red Wine
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Barrancas 2007
Mendoza $17.95 (17129) 14.5% alcohol
An unusual blend of Shiraz, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this inky red is dry, full bodied and well structured. Characterized by aromas and flavours of rich ripe berries, spice and herbs, it displays fine acidity and ripe tannins augmenting those rich plummy, black cherry and berry flavours. Notes of char, pepper and exotic spice persist on the lengthy dry finish. Earning an extra half star for value, it’s a match for slow-cooked stew or you can cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Michel Torino ‘Don David Reserve’ Malbec 2009
Cafayate Valley $12.95 (064998) 14.0% alcohol
Tar, smoky notes and aromatic bitters on the nose, this dishes up juicy, tangy concentrated flavours of bramble berry and dark Bing cherry interwoven with nuances of mocha. It’s mid weight and deftly balanced with good red berry acidity and a long aftertaste with some perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before serving with smoked grilled back ribs. It’s good value; give it a second look. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $19.95 (132365) 14.7% alcohol
Here’s a well put together Cabernet with über-ripe fruit aged in American and French oak for 8 months. It’s loaded with aromas and extracted flavors of fresh-from-the-oven berry pie and black plum. The toasty oak nose and hints of cocoa on the palate join with fine-grained tannin to balance the jammy fruit. It’s round and full with a long warm finish featuring a pleasant lingering note of wood char. Pair with kebabs—spicy pork or curried lamb. (Susan Desjardins)
Chile: White Wine
Aresti ‘Reserva Limited Release’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Curicó Valley $12.95 (651760) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of citrus, nettles and grassy notes dominate the lifted nose in this good-value, racy, crisp Sauvignon Blanc. A riveting spine of acidity persists throughout with lemony citrus and white grapefruit riding the wave. It’s light bodied and just the go for patio-sipping or paired with sea food under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Cartagena Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Lo Abarca, San Antonio Valley $15.95 (246405) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, passion fruit and herbaceous notes provide segue for a pleasant wash of crisp, refreshing, grapefruit and lemongrass flavours interwoven with spice and tropical fruit. It’s light on its feet with good balance and a mouth-watering finish. Pair with skillet-seared calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Emiliana ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Syrah/Mourvèdre 2007
Los Robles, Colchagua Valley $18.95 (243394) 14.5% alcohol
Biodynamic practices were used to produce this dense tantalizing wine; Vic and I loved it. It’s complex on the nose with earthy autumnal notes, sweet herbs, a hint of tapenade and rich dark fruit replaying on the palate. Dry, medium-full bodied, fresh acidity and firm structure frame dark berry and cherry overlaid with enticing nuances of toast, herbs and spice. It’s a wine that lingers and invites another sip, and then another. Enjoy it with grilled beef marinated in balsamic and herbs. (Susan Desjardins)
San Pedro ‘1865 Single Vineyard’ Carmenère 2008
Maule Valley $19.95 (249201) 14.5% alcohol
Dark fruit, exotic spice and mocha on the nose, the palate doesn’t disappoint with its richly flavoured, generously textured river of flavour—tangy mulberry, juicy black cherry and oodles of black currant. It’s mid weight and well balanced with an aftertaste of dark fruit, spice and savoury herbs. Good to go with grilled steak or a hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
d’Arenberg ‘The Custodian’ Grenache 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (713040) 14.5% alcohol
Always good value, d’Arenberg thrives on meticulous fruit selection, small-lot ferments and the amazing blending talent of gifted winemaker, Chester Osborn. Racy flavours of sour cherry, sweet cassis and ripe mulberry bathe the palate extending through the balanced, lengthy, mouth-watering finish. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel. Pity the wine lover or the wine list without something from d’Arenberg. (Vic Harradine)
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2009
Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (673897) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, ripe and rarin’ to go, aromatic bitters, licorice and berry fruit aromas jump from the glass. It’s balanced and beautiful on the palate with concentrated sweet, ripe mulberry, black plum and cherry clafoutis throughout. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, the lingering aftertaste layers on moderating acidity balancing the whole affair and making each sip as good or better than the previous. Don’t hesitate, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Magpie ‘The Schnell’ Shiraz/Grenache 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (047662) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe and fruit-laden, this flamboyant fruit bomb is sure to attract its share of admirers. Dark berry fruit, Asian spice and black licorice aromas abound. There’s a gusher of concentrated sweet ripe bramble berry, cassis and spiced black plum compote on the palate persisting through the lingering aftertaste. It’s full bodied, generously textured with a supple tannin underpinning layering on nuances mocha on the aftertaste. Poured well with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
South Australia $34.95 (414987) 14.5% alcohol
With a number of wines in the respected Langton’s Classification, the name ‘Penfolds’ on the bottle is about as close as it gets to a guarantee of quality for the wine inside. This vintage produced an alluring nose—pencil shavings, tapenade and exotic spice—providing segue to a fusion of flavours with black currant, toasty oak and hints of mint predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with still resolving tannin on the lengthy finish. Pour 2014 to 2020 or aerate/decant three hours and pour now with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $14.95 (684357) 15.0% alcohol
Hickory, cedar and berry fruit aromas introduce a swashbuckling, fully flavoured fruit bowl of rich concentrated flavours in this robust Barossa blend. Full-bore blackberry jam, espresso roast and kirsch liqueur coat the palate and linger through the flavour-packed aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied and drinking well now. This over delivers given the paltry sticker price; if this is your style, load up the cart. (Vic Harradine)
Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $63.95 (636407) 15.8% alcohol
This is an imposing voluptuous Shiraz not for the faint of heart; it’s brimming with aromas, flavour and texture. There are dark and dense, palate-coating waves of sweet ripe mulberry, black plum and spice-infused briary berry washing throughout this full-bodied, generously textured behemoth. The long complex finish layers on mocha and black licorice. There’s a ripe tannin underpinning and just enough acidity to provide balance. (Vic Harradine)
Two Hands ‘Yesterday’s Hero’ Grenache 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $31.95 (009506) 14.8% alcohol
Dishing up good structure, deft balance and a delectable mouthful of juicy tangy flavour, it’s drinking well now and up to 2016. Red and black berry fruit aromas interweave with kitchen spice and floral notes providing segue to a juicy tangy wash of red currant, racy cranberry and bramble berry on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel sporting a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Good to go now with spicy, smoked and grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (084996) 14.0% alcohol
Aromatic bitters, toasty and earthy notes on the nose, it blossoms on the palate with endless waves of ripe mulberry, racy, juicy red currant and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and smooth as silk, the finish is perfectly balanced—each sip as good or better than the previous—and brimming with dark berry fruit and spiced black plum interwoven with espresso roast and mint. Did I mention it’s well structured, delicious and good value? (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Dog Point Chardonnay 2008
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (238568) 14.5% alcohol
Charred toast, oak and wisps of orchard fruit aromas open this intensely flavoured, full-bodied, richly textured, delectable gem. Robust flavours charge across the palate with ripe Bosc pear, crisp green apple and tangy lemon-lime to the fore. There’s a spine of tangy acidity throughout, lingering on the finish providing a lip-smacking climax. (Vic Harradine)
Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (981670) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a well-balanced, juicy mouthful of lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc punching well above the price—pick up a few. Gooseberry, ripe pineapple and tangy lemon-lime flavours persist throughout. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and long crisp and refreshing finish. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs well with lemon chicken or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
Terravin ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough $29.95 (247205) 13.5% alcohol
Partially fermented in seasoned oak, this is a dry, crisp fruity wine with lovely aromas of gooseberry, fresh-rubbed herbs, tangy citrus and exotic tropical fruit. Dry and medium bodied, if offers a wonderful fresh round texture, some underlying mineral notes and a zesty, slightly pithy, citrus finish. Enjoy it with fresh-water fish and creamy lemon sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
South Africa: White Wine
Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Darling $14.95 (235895) 13.5% alcohol
Sharp, pungent aromas of nettles and passion fruit rocket from the glass of this mid-weight, nicely textured Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a good backbone of tangy acidity—lemon and white grapefruit—with good mouth feel in a lighter-style that’s certainly not wanting for flavour or texture. The price quality ratio skews in your favour; toss a few in the cart. Pour alongside pan-fried fish or grilled garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Austria: White Wine
Rabl ‘Reserve Vinum Optimum’ Grüner Veltliner 2009
DAC Kamptal $19.95 (216473) 13.0% alcohol
From one of the top producers of this increasingly popular varietal, aromas of mixed spice, floral notes and minerality open this well-paced, well-priced Grüner. It’s racy with mouth-watering flavours of Granny Smith apple, lemongrass and tangy grapefruit mingling with spiced yellow plum. Medium bodied with good texture it dishes up a lip-smacking, refreshing aftertaste. Pour with skillet-seared calamari rings or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Joseph Cattin Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $16.95 (224626) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s another award-winning wine from this producer, a golden gem beguiling you with aromas of lychee, rosewater, ginger and light spring flowers. Just off-dry and mid-weight, it delivers a luscious creamy texture and a consistent flavour profile—honey, lychee and ginger preserve—with a scrumptious, spicy, long-lasting finish. Bring it on now with spicy Asian cuisine or you can cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
France: Red Wine
Bouchard Père et Fils Côte de Beaune-Villages 2008
AOC Côte de Beaune-Villages $24.95 (714998) 13.0% alcohol
Semi transparent and ruby hued, this classically styled red delivers tantalizing earthy, beetroot and red berry aromas plus a whiff of sweet smoky spice. It’s medium bodied with fine tannin and a backbone of fresh acidity supporting the raspberry and pie cherry flavours. The finish is dry, lengthy and mouth-wateringly fresh. Enjoy with roasted pork tenderloin au jus or tuck away medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Domaine Parent ‘Bourgogne’ Pinot Noir 2009
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (597971) 12.5% alcohol
This is very good value, delivering a subtle floral fragrance and aromas of spiced red berries. Dry, medium bodied and supple, there’s a well-crafted balance of focused spiced cherry/berry fruit, soft tannin and lively acidity. A lovely, flavourful, well-structured Pinot. Enjoy now with roast duck breast. (Susan Desjardins)
Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (177618) 15.0% alcohol
This offers subtle aromas of earth, dark fruit, herbs and spice followed by robust impactful flavours—rich dark berries, plum and spice. Full bodied with a firm structure, refreshing acidity and a dry lengthy finish, this wine is designed for cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)
Perrin ‘La Gille’ Gigondas 2009
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (236505) 14.0% alcohol
Not available at the Vintages tasting; tasted at domus café, a premiere Ottawa dining spot where celebrated chef/owner John Taylor works his culinary magic. Briary berry, slate, floral and spice on the nose, this bathes the palate with a well-balanced wash of juicy black Bing cherry and spiced bramble berry interlaced with spice and espresso roast. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it’s full of charm and incredibly delicious. Mine was paired with a stunning, medium-rare hangar steak from O’Brien farms—superb. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Suoi Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $33.95 (212522) 13.5% alcohol
Semi transparent, this is flavourful with a lovely aromatic complexity—floral and earthy notes with fruit compote and hints of char. On the palate it’s balanced and medium-full bodied offering flavours of spiced red fruit and persistent earthy notes coupled with a silky smooth texture, ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Enjoy now with pasta and porcini mushrooms or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Rivera ‘Violante’ Nero di Troia 2008
DOC Castel del Monte $15.95 (583435) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from a lesser-known indigenous varietal typical of this DOC in Puglia, the Nero di Troia offers a sweetly spiced fruity nose. Dry and medium-full bodied with a firm structure and lively acidity, there’s great tangy red fruit, a hint of oak and an attractive fresh texture. Nicely made, persistent and dry on the finish, it’s good value and well matched with a plate of Italian cheese and cured meats or grilled Italian sausage. (Susan Desjardins)
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $36.95 (212456) 14.0% alcohol
Involved charming aromas of aromatic bitters, dark berry fruit and gamy notes presage a rich concentrated flow of red cherry, cassis, blood plum and mixed spice. Medium bodied, balanced and well textured, the lingering finish layers on black juicy cherry and ripe mulberry burnished with espresso roast. There’s good moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. Not for long term aging, this classy number’s good to go now. (Vic Harradine)
Zeni ‘Vigne Alte’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $39.95 (230607) 15.5% alcohol
This is absolutely delicious with oodles of fruit and dark chocolate flavour. Aromatic bitters, dark field berry fruit and mixed spice on the nose, the palate’s bathed with a rush of delectable flavour—dried berry fruit, ripe black currant and fig. It’s full-bodied and fully textured with espresso roast and chocolate galore on the warm lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Quinta Dos Roques ‘Vinho Tinto’ 2007
DOC Dão $15.95 (986075) 12.5% alcohol
From a well-established winery with a reputation for quality, this red blend displays some of the charm for which Dão wines are noted. Incense, spice and toasty notes provide segue to a tangy, juicy mouthful of red cherry, cassis and sprigs of savoury herbs. Mid-full weight, good texture and excellent moderating acidity are showcased throughout while the lingering aftertaste is decorated with red currant and nuances of earthiness. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Baron de Ley Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of bacon, underbrush and aromatic bitters waft easily from this well-structured, deftly balanced Tempranillo. There’s a tangy river of pie cherry, black currant and herbal notes leading to a lingering finish that layers on fennel and toasty notes along with ripe mulberry. It’s fruity, mid weight and nicely textured, offering fair value. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: Winter/Spring 2012
Jackson-Triggs ‘Gold Series’ Red Meritage 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (594002) 13.3% alcohol
Rich, robust and brimming with spice, mocha and dark berry fruit on the nose, this delivers a persistent wash of tangy, juicy black currant, blueberry and savoury-infused sour cherry on the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a solid underpinning of ripe supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside grilled strip loin or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages - limited quantities with not much to go around—act quickly
Jackson Triggs ‘Entourage Silver Series’ Brut Méthode Classique 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (234161) 12.0% alcohol
A yellow-golden hue and alluring nose of citrus, floral and Bavarian apple tart presage a profusion of bubbles, dazzling flavours and crisp refreshing aftertaste. Fresh lively flavours of lime sherbet, crisp green apple and white peach infuse the brisk fine-bead mousse and persist on the racy, refreshing finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel bubbling over with value. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 (033951) 12.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit, earthiness and notes of forest floor fill out the aromas while the palate-coating flavours—cranberry, pomegranate and red cherry—are carried on a solid tannin underpinning and tangy acidity. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured and adorned with berry fruit and spice on the drying finish. Decant/aerate three hours and serve alongside smoked duck breasts over arugula dressed with mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 (033902) 12.5% alcohol
Spice, slate, black plum and distinctive aromas of sandalwood on the nose, this dishes up a well-paced wash of tangy flavour with sour cherry, red currant and spiced mulberry to the fore. It’s mid weight, has good mouth feel and deft balance. Excellent moderating acidity, soft oak, delicate flavours and ripe tannin all play their harmonious part in delivering a lovely Pinot from a challenging vintage. Pour with stuffed roast turkey and all the fixings. (Vic Harradine).
Henry of Pelham Baco Noir ‘Reserve’ 2009
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
Aficionados and first-timers alike—don’t miss this, it’s flavour packed, value laden and damn delicious. Wild aromas of bacon fat, tar, savoury herbs and spiced black plum herald robust flavours of dark, briary berry fruit, ripe juicy cherry and racy red currant punctuated by herbs and spice and wrapped in supple tannin. It’s full bodied, well balanced and rich, coating the palate and swaggering though a lengthy finish framed by toasty notes and racy Baco acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Barrel Aged’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177766) 14.0% alcohol
This is a fabulous wine from a stunning vintage at a seriously good price. Alluring aromas of spice and nutty notes mingle with wisps of floral and tropical fruit on the nose. There’s a glorious mouthful of nectarine, peach and ripe pineapple decorated with racy lemon and toasty notes on the palate. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, there’s a lingering, balanced and lip-smacking aftertaste. Purchase from select Ontario Wine Rack stores, select LCBO Vintages stores and from Inniskillin winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin Icewine Vidal 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (551085) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Almost twenty years ago Canada burst onto the world wine stage with a 1989 vintage of this wine. Taste this to learn why, as this 2007 vintage has also earned its share of gold medals and accolades. It’s rich, silky textured and unctuous brimming with concentrated, luscious flavour—sweet mango, ripe apricot, luscious yellow peach. On the finish it’s refreshing, leaving you looking for another sip… or three. Click here [PDF file] for icewine and cheese suggestions. This Vintages Essentials wine is always available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Cattail Creek ‘Cat-astrophe Red’ 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek $13.95 (260356) 12.5% alcohol
This is a well-priced, racy, juicy red blend—Gamay Noir, Merlot and Cab Franc—that opens with aromas of berry fruit and spice. It dishes up good texture within a light-medium bodied frame and showcases tangy flavour with red currant, sour cherry and tart cranberry to the fore. This really shines served alongside lasagna, pasta in tomato-based sauce or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)
Cattail Creek ‘Cat-astrophe White’ 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek $13.95 (260349) 12.5% alcohol
Rich, ripe aromas of Asian spice, lively citrus and rosewater rip from this crisp and racy blend—Chardonnay Musqué, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. A tart river of lemon zest and pineapple wash over the palate and dominate the lip-smacking finish. A great fall and Indian Summer deck or patio sipper, it’s perfectly poured with shrimp ceviche or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (620724) 12.7% alcohol
Lively aromas of lime cordial and assorted citrus fruit abound on the nose. Generously textured and nicely balanced, there’s a delightfully crisp and refreshing splash of lemon zest and white peach on the palate. It’s mid weight with a tangy finish of grapefruit peel. Extremely well priced—gaining its final half star on value—and poured well with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)
Creekside Estate Shiraz 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (066654) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. Lifted aromas of spice, berry fruit and cherry waft freely from this mid-weight nicely balanced Shiraz. There’s a delectable river of tangy cherry, red currant and sweet ripe bramble berry on the palate. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree Red’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, ripe black plum and dark berry fruit aromas waft from this juicy, tangy red blend—Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and brimming with savoury, racy red currant, cherry and black currant flavour. The finish lingers with good structure and underpinning. Versatile with a wide variety of cuisine, give it a go with steak, pizza, ribs or burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree White’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116) 12.5% alcohol
This dishes up a world of value and loads of flavour. Aromas of exotic spice, lychee and soft citrus provide segue to glorious waves of ripe fruit-filled flavour with pineapple, tropical fruit and white peach to the fore. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced aftertaste of lip-smacking lemon-lime tang. Crisp and refreshing on its own, it’s a natural with appetizers or mains of seafood, fish, veal or chicken. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Aure Riesling 2010
VQA Ontario $15.20 12.5% alcohol
Bone dry, light-medium bodied, the aromas are citrus, green apple and wet stone. Offering a silky texture, the wine is bright, lively and zippy, with a palate of fresh citrus—grapefruit and lemon to the fore. The finish is lasting and slightly pithy. Enjoy with freshwater fish or seafood. Available from Aure Wines. (Susan Desjardins)
Aure Gamay 2010
VQA Ontario $16.20 12.0% alcohol
David Hoare was inspired to produce this wine by his memories of sipping chilled Beaujolais in a Paris café. A lovely pale candy-apple red, this dry, medium bodied wine offers appealing aromas of pepper, spice and red cherry. Vibrant acidity, a pronounced peppery note and flavours of zesty red fruit—pie cherry, raspberry and cranberry—create a tangy lip-smacking finish. Try it with grilled sausages. Available from Aure Wines. (Susan Desjardins)
Creekside Estate ‘Laura’s White’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 12.7% alcohol
Aromas of exotic spice, honeysuckle and tropical fruit waft freely from this tangy, artfully blended gem—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat and Viognier. It dishes up a crisp, refreshing river of tropical fruit, apple and juicy citrus on the palate and mouth-watering aftertaste. Sips beautifully on its own or poured with skillet-seared fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. Available only from Creekside Estate in Jordan. (Vic Harradine)
The Good Wine Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00 12.5% alcohol
Lightly oaked in one-year old French barrels, this dry medium-bodied wine offers delectable aromas of citrus, pear, tropical fruit and a subtle floral note. Silky in texture, the well-integrated oak, fresh acidity, ripe orchard fruit and lively citrus create a delightful taste experience and a lasting well-balanced finish. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
The Good Wine Rosé 2010
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $18.00 13.1% alcohol
Candy-apple red, this rosé is principally Cabernet Franc that went through a cold soak and cold stainless steel fermentation. It’s suffused with aromas of red berry fruit, a hint of sweet herbs and a tantalizing earthiness. Delightfully dry, medium bodied, there’s plenty of fruit on the palate, hints of white pepper and some lingering herbal notes on the fresh clean finish. A versatile wine to be chilled and enjoyed on its own or with grilled trout or salmon. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
The Good Wine Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 12.7% alcohol
Deep ruby, this wine spent 10 months in neutral oak barrels and offers a classic nose of red berries, roast beets, spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied, there’s attractive complexity and balance—lively acidity, underlying minerality, earthiness, a hint of herbs and a replay of the spice, raspberry and strawberry. The finish is dry, fruity and persistent. It was great with grilled salmon over a salad with quinoa and roasted tomatoes or try with veal chops and mushrooms. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.95 (558288) 9.0% alcohol
Sensuous and sexy, alluring aromas of honeyed pear, warm peach pie and racy lemon tart abound. On the palate, there’s a dazzling array of succulent, ripe tropical fruit and honeyed pear and apple flavours that are perfectly balanced with a moderating stream of lemon and grapefruit tang. Of course, it’s divine sipped on its own or with desserts like bread pudding or crème brulée—how about duck? Here’s a link to many recipes that pair with icewine. Purchase at Inniskillin Winery Boutique, Niagara-on-the-Lake. (Vic Harradine)
Nyarai Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.75 13.0% alcohol
Winemaker Steve Byfield has been hitting homeruns with Sauvignon Blanc the past couple of years and the 2010 is no exception. It has a fresh lemongrass and lime nose with a hint of mineral crispness. On the palate it’s dry and fruity with excellent acidity for balance. A small amount of barrel fermentation gives a slightly fuller body than many other Sauvignon Blancs. This is a real crowd pleaser and an excellent match for cedar-planked grilled salmon. Order for home or office delivery from Nyarai Cellars. (Dave Isaacs)
Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.75 13.0% alcohol
Nyarai’s debut vintage of Viognier greets you with a nose of citrus, plum and honeysuckle. It’s smooth and medium bodied on the palate with flavours of honey, melon and peach. It's all balanced by a crisp acidity, leading to a very pleasantly flavourful and lengthy finish. Goes very nicely alongside pasta with meat sauce made with fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes. Order for home or office delivery from Nyarai Cellars. (Dave Isaacs)
Sue-Ann Staff Semi-dry Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 10.0% alcohol
Produced from grapes harvested from 4 separate parcels, this is Sue-Ann Staff’s first wine as proprietor. Pale yellow-green, there’s a whiff of petrol over mineral notes and the aromas of zesty citrus, ripe stone fruit and fresh-picked apple. Light-medium bodied and off-dry, this wine displays a great balance of fresh acidity, underlying minerality and tangy fruit that persists through the lasting finish. Lovely now on its own or with light appetizers, this wine will continue to age gracefully. Available from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery (Susan Desjardins)
Sue-Ann Staff Baco Noir 2008
VQA Ontario $16.00 11.5% alcohol
Deep red with a violet note, this lightly oaked Baco is dry, smooth and flavourful. There’s attractive complexity on the nose—earthy, herbal notes, hints of mushroom and cured meat mingling with the scent of dark fruit. Medium bodied, the flavours of red fruits, spice and a hint of char are matched with lively acidity with the earthiness persisting through a clean fresh finish. Enjoy with eggplant parmigiana. Available from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
Cheers, Vic and Susan