Winecurrent

September 3, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • 5 stars – The first wine in ‘New in Vintages’, Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2007, is a stunning example of world-class Chardonnay.
  • Susan’s Selection – Susan loved the Corte Majoli Amarone della Valpolicella 2007 @ $33.95 and 4½ stars. It’s under Italy: Red Wine.
  • Finding Waldo – It’s an off-dry Gewürzt that’s creamy, rich and oozing charm—tasting like a Grand Cru from Alsace, it’s not; it’s 4½ stars and under $20.
  • Vic’s Pick – Tierra Alta ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2007 @ $13.95 and 4½ stars is a gem of a red blend under Chile: Red Wine
  • Two Glasses! we both loved these - Lammershoek ‘Roulette’ 2006 in the ‘Flavour Profile Feature’ and Mullineux Syrah 2008 in ‘South Africa: Red Wine’, both from Swartland.
This winecurrent newsletter reviews +60 wines and begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue titled ‘Flavour Profile’ followed by a September 10 supplement on Ontario wine then wines are reviewed in order of the Main Release.

Flavour Profile Feature

**** drink now
Le Monteil d’Arsac 2006
AOC Haut Mèdoc $16.95 (266142) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with well-ripened fruit, vanilla and light notes of cedar, this is a smooth-textured, dry, medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot underpinned with perceptible tannin and fine acidity. It proffers a rich core of berry fruit, notes of toast, a tinge of pepper and spice, and an attractive fruit-filled finish. Enjoy it now with herbed roast pork or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Patris 2008
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $29.95 (231183) 13.0% alcohol
Earthy, mocha and sprigs of spice and herbs on the nose, this is medium bodied with good mouth feel and oodles of savoury characteristics. Savoury-infused cherry, blueberry and black plum run over the palate and through the mid-length aftertaste. Good to go now poured with pasta in tomato-based sauce or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Lavau Gigondas 2009
AOC Gigondas $23.95 (234955) 14.0% alcohol
Blended from hand-harvested Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah, this deep, ruby red showcases complex aromas and flavours—sun-ripened black fruits, herbal nuances, underbrush and earth. Round ripe tannin and fresh acidity balance the ripe focused fruit. Medium bodied with a wonderful velvety texture and fruit-filled finish, you can enjoy it now with a robust meat dish or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Chante Cigale ‘Tradition’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 

AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (194993) 15.0% alcohol 

Crafted from the fruit of 45-year-old vines, this powerful, deep-ruby blend of Grenache (principally), Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault is a wine of complexity and depth. Full bodied, it’s dry, round and smooth. Aromas and flavours include dark berry fruit, earth, herbes de Provence and a sweet note evoking spicy dried fruit. With some warmth on the palate, supple tannin and fine fruity acidity, the balance is wonderful. An elusive, perfumed note persists through the lengthy finish. Designed to last, enjoy a bottle now and hold one long-term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Tommasi ‘Il Sestante’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2009
DOC Valpolicella $18.95 (181719) 13.0% alcohol
Red cherry, strawberry and and toasty notes on the nose presage a juicy lip-smacking wash of red currant, sour cherry and spice-infused plummy notes on the palate. It’s light-mid weight with good texture and a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
De Toren Z 2008
WO Stellenbosch $32.95 (178194) 14.5% alcohol
Well-crafted and finely balanced, the aromas of this classic Right Bank Bordeaux-style blend draw you in—dark berry and plum, roasted peppers and sun-kissed herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, robust and supple, the components all knit together—well-integrated tannin, lovely fresh acidity and ripe fruit nuanced with mint and herbs. The finish is long, warm, fruity and slightly peppery. Full flavoured and just plain delicious. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now two glasses
Lammershoek ‘Roulette’ 2006
WO Swartland $23.95 (58164) 14.5% alcohol
Vic and I both enjoyed this flavourful blend of Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier that entices with rich, ripe spiced plum and berry aromas. Dry and full bodied, it delivers great impact and focused dark fruit flavours. Notes of spice, cocoa, toast and black licorice add complexity. Soft in texture, built with good structure, it finishes appealingly long and lush. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Majella ‘The Musician’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2009
Coonawarra $19.95 (142018) 14.8% alcohol
Inky and potent, this blend has a complex alluring set of aromas—earthy, minty, floral almost pungent rose-like scents and sun-ripened blackberries. It’s dry, full bodied with concentrated flavours of dark fruit, pepper, spice, cedar and toast overlaid on a firm structure and lifted by fresh acidity. Mouth filling, tooth staining and lingering on the finish, cellar a few more years or enjoy now with braised short ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yalumba ‘The Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2006
Barossa, South Australia $51.95 (528356) 13.5% alcohol
A top red blend from a premium down under winery, this has intense flavour, good depth and delectable focused flavour. Dark toast, aromatic bitters and truffle aromas blossom on the nose presaging a persistent stream of ripe juicy mulberry and racy red currant interlaced with red cherry and espresso roast on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a glorious hit of dark chocolate on the lingering balanced finish. A three-hour aeration/decant or two more years in bottle will soothe the solid tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
A to Z Wineworks ‘Chemin de Terre’ 2006
Oregon $14.95 (234724) 13.5% alcohol
Produced by A to Z Wineworks, this is a blend ranging from C-abernet to S-angiovese. Aged 18 months in oak, approachable and easy going, the wine is fragrant with berry fruit and spice. Dry, medium bodied and smooth, it offers attractive fruit and pleasant notes of toast and vanilla deftly balanced by fresh acidity and soft tannins. Kick back and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Inniskillin ‘Reserve Series’ Meritage 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (91132) 13.5% alcohol 

Can’t get enough of that 2007 vintage . . . opaque and deep purple, this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc delivers powerful aromas—ripe, dark fruit, floral and herbal notes—as well as a big flavourful mouthful of dark berry fruit and nuances of cocoa. Deftly structured, it’s medium-full bodied with a lingering dry, fruity finish. Well priced and a candidate for short-term cellaring, you can serve now with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol 

Here’s a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 3-5 years. This appealing blend has complex and captivating aromas—roasted herbs, tobacco leaf and hints of vanilla mingling with red and black berry fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, with a firm structure, grippy tannin and tangy acidity, the berry flavours replay on the palate and carry through on the finish garnished with notes of cocoa and toast. An ideal match for beef tenderloin with a tarragon mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Dark Horse Estate Vineyard’ Meritage 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (597039) 14.0% alcohol
It’s principally the robust Merlot of the Okanagan paired with the Cabernets; a blend with depth of colour and flavour. Inviting rich aromas of dark fruit are nuanced with hints of spice, vanilla and smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s fresh on the palate with perceptible tannin. This is powerful and flavourful—plum, dark berry fruit, spice and pepper. Hints of toast emerge on the lasting finish. A wine to enjoy now with flavourful meat dishes or to cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

September 10: Ontario Feature Supplement

White Wine

**** drink now
13th Street ‘Premier Cuvée Brut’ Sparkling Wine 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (142679) 12.5% alcohol 

From a winery whose founders set out to make great Ontario sparkling wine, this lemon-gold gem was produced in the classic ‘méthode traditionelle’. It entices with aromas of orchard fruit, citrus and freshly-baked biscuit. Dry and medium bodied, the mousse is fine, the fruit flavours zesty—Granny Smith apple and lemon-lime—and the texture tangy. The finish is fresh, bright and persistent. This is a wonderful choice for any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 11.0% alcohol 

Lovely aromas of stone fruit, tangerine and lemon curd delight. Sweetly fruity, the flavours are peach, pear and sweet apple, with an underlying backbone of fresh acidity for balance. Practicing sustainable agriculture, Featherstone have sheep roam the vineyards, trimming vine leaves prior to veraison, creating conditions for the optimal ripeness seen in this wine. Displaying great potential of the vintage, it’s a flavourful and well-balanced Riesling with a lingering compelling finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 10.5% alcohol 

Lusciously sweet stone-fruit aromas, citrus and a whiff of minerality drift from the glass of this finely crafted just off-dry gem. Sweetly fruity on entry—a basket of nectarine, peach and apricot—a backbone of acidity underlines the clean zesty flavour of mandarin and lime. Light-medium bodied, this is a great wine to sip on its own or to savor with warm salmon salad. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink now
Lailey Vineyard ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 13.5% alcohol 

Impressive from the get-go, this is aromatic and laden with richly layered flavours persisting through the mid-length deftly balanced finish. Apple and pear aromas replay on the palate with gusto—waves of Granny Smith apple and ripe Bosc pear mingle with spiced citrus. It’s mid weight with a gorgeous mouth feel cleaning up mouth-watering and refreshing. With each sip better than the previous, it’s difficult to take your hand off the glass. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Reif Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara River $14.95 (247825) 13.0% alcohol
The grapes for this wine weren’t harvested until late November. Restrained tropical notes, tangy citrus and hints of nettle introduce a subtle golden-hued wine that’s lively in texture and tasty on the palate. Framed by crisp acidity, the flavours of gooseberry, grapefruit and green apple persist through a pleasantly pithy finish. Enjoy with freshwater fish or shellfish. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

****1/2drink now
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009

VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 12.5% alcohol

The price and Niagara Peninsula appellation suggest ‘entry level’, the tasting suggests otherwise—it’s a crowd-pleaser with the price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Lifted aromas jump from the glass with oodles of cinnamon, cloves and mixed dark berry fruit. It’s an amalgam of mouth-watering flavours—ripe cranberry and pomegranate mingling with spice, strawberry and cherry. It’s medium bodied, generously textured with a lengthy aftertaste of sweet, succulent cherry/berry flavour. Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2009 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $20.00 12.5% alcohol 

Aromas of toast and spice-infused red and dark berries provide segue for a persistent stream of tangy juicy flavour with racy red cranberry, beetroot and red currant to the fore. Light-medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes dry and fruity with nuances of pie cherry underpinned by perceptible tannin. Versatile at the table, duck breast, Cornish game hen and clay-baked chicken all work well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Merlot - Cabernet 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 13.5% alcohol 

Opening with a subtle nose of dark roast, spice and espresso roast, this delivers a juicy wash of fruit-forward flavour—red cherry and black currant mingling with spiced blood plum. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and well balanced throughout. It finishes warm and fruity framed by good moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Dow's Vintage Port 2000

DOC Douro $44.95 (236935) 375 mL 

This was aged six years in older barrels then bottled ensuring your immediate drinking enjoyment. A silver medal winner at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this offers a spicy warm nose and glorious rich flavours of raisin, fig and deep rich cherry. The long and layered finish offers more of the same with deft balance, luxurious texture and spicy notes. Extremely versatile, you can quaff on its own après dinner or pair with chocolate desserts or hard aged cheese—cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. It’s the perfect size for four persons. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Osborne Oloroso ‘Premium Medium 10 RF’ Sherry

DO Jerez $15.95 (087536) 20% alcohol 18.8% alcohol

This is racy, dry, drop-dead delicious and excellent value. It’s an elegant enticing dry wine with which to greet guests, it also matches well to consommé or other broth soups containing mushrooms and/or wild rice. A gorgeous tawny colour in the glass, the aromas and flavours are all about raisins, nuts and that atypical aroma common to most Sherry called ‘rancio’. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Elio Filippino ‘Brut’ Rosé Vino Spumante
Italy $16.95 ( 230706) 12.5% alcohol
Celebrate Italy’s 150th anniversary with this dry, tangy, refreshing sparkler. Pale salmon, it offers a delicate nose of red berry and cherry, fresh lively fizz and appealing flavours of red field berries. A good choice for antipasto. Cin-cin! (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Barrel Aged’ Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177766) 14.0% alcohol
Floral, spice and nutty aromas open this fully flavoured, rich and delicious gem. Mid weight and nicely textured, there’s a persistent wash of white peach and mango on the palate while the lengthy aftertaste is crisp and refreshing with lively lemon and ripe pineapple to the fore. There’s great value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Silver Series’ Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (247767) 13.7% alcohol
This off-dry beauty dishes up an alluring nose of rosewater, citrus zest and exotic spice. Creamy rich on the palate and oozing charm, the palate’s showered with a mélange of flavour—nectarine, ripe pear and spice-infused yellow plum among them. It’s deftly balanced on the sweet and tang finish, making it the perfect partner with spicy Asian food. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol 

This is a delicious well-made Chardonnay with balance, generous texture and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Aromas of orchard fruit mingling with wisps of tropical fruit abound followed by a wave of delectable flavour—crisp apple, ripe pear and racy citrus. It finishes with a lip-smacking refreshing aftertaste. Barrel fermented and barrel aged 10 months in well-seasoned French oak; it punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan: White Wine

**** drink now
Road 13 ‘Honest John’sWhite’ 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $25.95 (248559) 13.3% alcohol
Produced from a blend of aromatic white varietals, this entices with a complex set of aromas—stone fruit, pear, lemon pie, spice and some tropical floral notes. Rounded, with good structure, the core is fruity with notes of lime, spice and white pepper. Mouth watering and juicy, it finishes with lingering citrus notes. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Benziger ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
Carneros $28.95 (172205) 14.1% alcohol
Fennel, orchard fruit and spice on the nose, this is medium-bodied with smooth-as-silk mouth feel and oodles of nicely balanced flavour. Waves of spice-laden tropical fruit, crisp mouth-watering, lemon-lime acidity and wisps of toasty notes coat the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. Paired well with roast turkey or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
L’Avion Roussanne 2008
Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara $46.95 (225391) 14.1% alcohol
Lots going on here, beginning with the involved interesting nose of fragrant floral, spice-laden citrus and honeyed tropical fruit. Medium-full bodied and fully textured, flavours of peach, pear, nutty notes and blood orange roll in endless waves over the palate and well-balanced finish. Poured and paired perfectly with slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Wine by Joe Pinot Gris 2009
Oregon $18.95 (58651) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate floral aromas, pear, apple and a whiff of citrus drfit from the glass. Dry, light-medium bodied, this is a clean refreshing wine with consistent flavours of orchard fruit and a splash of lime. Enjoy it with grilled trout and asparagus. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane 2009
Contra Costa County $19.95 (32177) 14.5% alcohol
Harvested from low-yielding vines, this inky purple wine displays smoky, meaty, dark berry aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s approachable, tasty and nicely balances soft tannin, fresh acidity and a core of dark berry fruit garnished with spice and pepper through the mid-length finish. Enjoy it with roasted or grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $19.95 (73817) 13.3% alcohol
Soft and subtle on the nose, there are aromas of spiced strawberry and toasty oak mingling with nuances of red cherry. Nicely balanced with good mouth feel, it bathes the palate with red and black currant and juicy Bing cherry interlaced with mint and mixed spice. It’s mid weight with a smooth balanced aftertaste underpinned by soft fine-grained tannin and framed by moderating acidity. Pour with braised lamb shank. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
St. Supéry Merlot 2007
Napa Valley $18.95 (398214) 14.5% alcohol
The depth of colour portends the concentrated ripe, dark fruit nuanced with smoky toast and spice. Dry and medium-full bodied, there’s complexity in the flavour—black plum skin, blackberry, mocha and earth along with good underlying structure and restrained acidity. This is a nicely-balanced package with a long, earthy fruit-filled finish. Try it with roast chicken and caramelized root veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Stonehedge ‘Special Vineyard Select - Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $23.95 (25122) 14.3% alcohol
This is mellow, smooth as satin and people/food friendly. Aromas of dark berry fruit, cedar and mocha give way to a river of fruit on the palate with black currant, fennel-infused black cherry and blueberry. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a mid-length, balanced, fruit-forward finish. Pour alongside roast of beef, steak or grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Juan Benegas Malbec 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (222273) 14.0% alcohol
Full flavoured and approachable, this wine is nicely balanced offering rich ripe dark fruit and some floral notes on a subtle frame of ripe tannin and fine acidity. Spice, cocoa, and faint peppery notes garnish the full fruity finish. Try it with chicken wings or liver paté and crusty bread. (Susan Desjardins)

*** drink or cellar
Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $15.00 (234492) 14.0% alcohol
A quiet nose of red and black mixed field berry fruit opens up this riveting red. There’s a laser-like rivulet of lively acidity throughout with racy red currant, pomegranate and ruby red grapefruit underpinned by a grainy tannin structure. Decant/aerate three hours and pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Vina Alicia `Paseo de Piedra` Cabernet Sauvginon 2008
Luján de Cuyo $18.95 (177980) 14.5% alcohol
Softly structured, this is a fruit-forward wine that’s laden with plush ripe dark berry fruit, notes of spice, cedar and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, and approachable, the tangy warm fruity finish lingers. A good match for lamb with balsamic reduction. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Concha Y Toro ‘Trio Reserva’ 2009
Maipo Valley $14.95 (433912) 14.0% alcohol
Bistro-styled and bursting with lifted aromas of Asian spice, red cherry and toasty notes, it dishes up a medium-full bodied red blend with good balance and herb-infused flavour. Look for sour cherry, hints of bell pepper and herbaceous herbs on the palate and mid-length finish. Give it a go with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2drink now
Luis Felipe Edwards ‘Reserva’ Merlot 2009
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (250340) 14.0% alcohol
Enjoy a tantalizing array of aromas in this big, deep inky wine —floral, herbal, spice, raspberry and black cherry. Dry and medium-full bodied, it displays lively texture and great underlying structure. The flavourful fruit is complemented with a replay of spice and herbs plus notes of toast garnishing the lengthy, warm, dry finish. It gets an extra half star for a value equation that’s definitely in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tierra Alta ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2007
Maule Valley $13.95 (236067) 14.0% alcohol
This offers oodles of balanced flavour and tremendous value; pick up a few for barbecues and/or large gatherings. Mocha, tobacco and cedar intersperse with darkberry fruit on the nose while the palate’s treated to a gusher of drink-me-now, tangy, juicy, red berry fruit, sweet ripe cherry and cassis. It’s mid weight, well balanced and underpinned by supple ripe tannin. The finish lingers, fruity and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gotham Shiraz 2009
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $18.95 (243048) 14.0% alcohol
Dark, richly spiced plum and rich roasted herbs on the nose, it’s full bodied, fully flavoured and just plain delicious. A river of flavour is carried along on a generously textured mouth feel with cherry cordial, dark berry fruit and cassis galore. It shows good depth and polish on the lingering balanced aftertaste. If you’re a lover of rich, juicy Shiraz, this is for you. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Kaesler ‘The Bogan’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $54.95 (004234) 15.5% alcohol
It blossoms from the glass with lifted aromas of aromatic bitters, exotic spice and dark berry fruit interwoven with dark toast and hints of espresso roast. Luscious mulberry, dark black cherry and black plum compote pour over the palate underpinned by perceptible tannin. It’s medium-full weight, nicely textured with a dry, lingering mouth-watering aftertaste. Pop the cork 2014 and drink to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2009
South Australia $17.95 (66738) 14.5% alcohol
There are oodles of sweet cherry/berry, herbs and mixed spice on the nose while the palate’s sprayed with a gusher of ripe bramble berry, cassis and mocha persisting through the juicy, tangy finish. It’s mid-full weight, nicely balanced and textured sporting a firm underpinning of supple tannin. What’s not to like? Pour with grilled rack of lamb or strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Delta Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough $16.95 (236125) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a classic with style and verve at a great price. There’s pungency on the nose with aromas of gooseberry, nettle, citrus and a hint of ripe pear. Dry and light-medium bodied, racy acidity complements the bright fruit and grass-like notes. A fine match to scallops in a lemon-cream sauce or sautéed shrimps. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough $19.95 (57802) 13.5% alcohol
This is a nicely balanced approachable pale-ruby red offering lifted aromas of sun-kissed red berries and a whiff of spice and vanilla. Dry, smooth and medium bodied, the fine acidity and tannins are matched to a core of ripe field berries, the spice and a hint of toast lingering on the finish. Try it with roast tomato risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now two glasses
Mullineux Syrah 2008
WO Swartland $28.95 (246553) 14.5% alcohol
Swartland, primarily dry farmed and relatively new to viticulture, is emerging as a premium red wine area; this showcases their potential. It’s richly flavoured with good depth and keen balance; Susan and I both loved it. Black plum, raisin and dark berry aromas peel from this medium-bodied, well-textured beauty. Dark juicy Bing cherry, blueberry and plum compote wash over the palate persisting through the lengthy, firm aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2009
AOC Beaumes-de-Venise $16.95 (129999) (375 ml) 15.0% alcohol
It’s a dream, seducing you with notes of dried apricot, peach nectar, honeysuckle, honey and fruit of the vine. The texture is luscious and silky, the sumptuous preserved stone fruit and dried mango are poised on a backbone of generous acidity and a hint of warmth glides through the delectable finish. A lovely closer, sip it on its own or with an orange crème brulée or cellar medium-long term. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Esprit du Sud ‘Rouge’ 2009
AOC Languedoc $14.95 (104919) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, this ruby-hued red is suffused with aromas of sweet ripe fruit, spice and sweet chocolate. Dry, medium bodied, bright red fruit—raspberry, cherry and cranberry—notes of spice and garrigue are balanced by fine-grained tannin and lively acidity. Flavourful, fresh and bright, it delivers a well-crafted lasting finish. A tasty organic wine receiving an extra half-star for value (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Schloss Schönborn ’Kabinett’ Riesling 2009
Prädikatswein, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg $19.95 (70946) 11.0% alcohol
Honeyed ripe fruit and spice notes waft from this off-dry Riesling. Sweet, ripe tropical fruit flavours dominate the palate while the nicely balanced aftertaste layers on ripe, juicy peach and nectarine mingling with moderating citrus acidity. This yin and yang sets it up perfectly for spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Mirafiore Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2008
DOC Barbera d`Alba $24.95 (230698) 14.0% alcohol
The inky purple hue sets the aromatic tone—ripe berry fruit, spicy licorice and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied and nicely balanced there’s a whack of red fruit—raspberry, cherry and cranberry—underpinned with a broad seam of acidity and good tannic structure. It finishes long, lively and fruity. Enjoy it with a platter of Parmigiano Reggiano and Parma ham or pasta in meat-based sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Terre del Barolo Barbaresco 2006
DOCG Barolo $24.95 (230714) 14.0% alcohol
If you’re an Italian patriot, you may want a bottle of this wine for your cellar, as it celebrates 150 years of Italian unity . . . and it’s a finely wrought, refined wine. A semi-transparent mahogany tone hints at the subtle floral, spice, sandalwood and dark fruit aromas. Dry, medium bodied and appealingly smooth in texture, this wine offers a lovely balance of delicate acidity, round tannin, red and black fruit, earthiness and spice. Enjoy it with herbed roast pork scented with truffles. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gricos Aglianico del Vulture 2008
DOC Vulture $14.95 (233833)
Italy’s ‘noble’ varietal of the south offers a dry, medium-bodied red loaded with floral aromas and flavours of red cherry/berry fruit, plum, spice and vanilla. There’s a firm underlying structure, refreshing acidity and a long dry finish that offers persistent flavours of tangy red fruit along with an appealing trace of bittersweet chocolate. A good match for lamb, this wine will cellar 2-4 years and gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rivera ‘Il Falcone Riserva’ 2006
DOC Castel del Monte $22.95 (177295) 13.5% alcohol
Fig, raisin and aromatic bitters waft from this well-balanced, mid-weight, richly flavoured, Nero di Troia/Montepulciano red blend. There’s a mélange of rich dark berry fruit, black licorice and nutty notes on the palate with smoky, tobacco nuances on the lengthy, rustic, tannin-infused finish. Pull the cork after 2012 or aerate/decant for three hours now before pouring with grilled steak or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Lornano ‘Le Bandite’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOC Chianti Classico $19.95 (230672) 14.5% alcohol
Dry, medium bodied, structured and lively on the palate, this is an appealing Chianti Classico with a depth of berry fruit aromas and flavours, notes of spice, cigar box and leather adding complexity. A hint of warmth and light toasty notes enhance the dry long-lasting finish. Try it with veal or eggplant parmigiana or a simple Shepherd’s pie. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Corte Majoli Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
DOCG Valpolicella $33.95 (81943) 15.5% alcohol
Do not pass go, head straight to the display for this classic value-laden Amarone. Savour the warm aromas of ripe fruit, dried berries, chocolate-coated caramel and cedar. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is like satin across the palate, the balance exquisite and the layers of flavours fascinating—from ripe red fruit, through bittersweet chocolate and a toffee-like note and exotic spice. The finish is warm, fruity and so tasty, you just want more. Savour it with an aged Pecorino. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

***** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (056929) 14.0% alcohol
A powerful expression of Chardonnay, measuring up to the best the wine world offers; it’s simply stunning. This offers a bouquet of alluring aromas with mineral tones, toasty oak and spice-laden orchard fruit to the fore. The palate’s bathed with lip-smacking, spice-infused, apple and nectarine garnished with sweet oak and gorgeous lip-smacking acidity. It’s medium bodied and smooth as silk. Don’t pass this up; drink now or tuck away two years in the cellar; time will add to the lustre. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 14.0% alcohol
Toasty oak, sweet vanilla, floral notes and hints of apple dominate the shy nose. It opens up nicely on the palate with a beautifully balanced wash of ripe orchard fruit—pear, apple and peach—interlaced with cinnamon, wisps of toasty oak and quince. It’s mid-full weight with generous texture and a lingering luscious aftertaste of tropical fruit and mouth-watering acidity; well made, well paced and well... delicious. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Le Clos Jordanne. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Silver Series’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 13.6% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Delicate aromas of white peach, floral notes and sprigs of herbs presage a balanced wash of lemony citrus and lime cordial mingling with hints of minerality. It’s fresh and lively with a slight spritz, good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste of white grapefruit. Pour on its own as a delightful aperitif or alongside skillet-seared calamari. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Jackson-Triggs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Gold Series – Delaine Vineyard’ Syrah 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 13.3% alcohol
This late-harvested—end of November—Syrah blossoms with attention-getting aromas of red cherry and spice-laden mixed berry fruit. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel, and oodles of sweet ripe berry fruit, cherry cordial and spice-infused strawberry and blueberry on the palate. A winemaking tour de force in a challenging vintage, it drinks well on its own and beautifully with pan-seared brautwürst and potato rosti or roast pork loin. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Jackson-Triggs. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Inniskillin ‘Three Vineyards’ Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of graphite, dark berry fruit and savory herbs provide segue to a rush of palate-coating flavour with black currant, bell pepper and herbaceous notes to the fore. It’s mid weight with medium texture and a lengthy finish, all showcasing a focused stream of cool-climate fruit and good moderating acidity. It’s poured perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce or osso bucco. Purchase at Inniskillin Winery Boutique, Niagara-on-the-Lake. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan