Winecurrent

July 9, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • Value-packed – and then some; four stars @ $8.95 You’ll find this following the Main Release along with other hidden gems – the above Farnese Rosé is in ‘New in LCBO Portfolio’ section.
  • 2 glasses  – Vic and Susan review two red blends from France they both loved—one from the Rhône @ $12.95 another from Bordeaux @ $21.95; look under France: Red Wine.
  • Classy with hints of elegance – Here’s a sampling - from Napa Valley, Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon; from Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Malivoire’s Chardonnay and a trio from Rosewood Estates – a Cabernet Franc, a ‘Süssreserve’ Riesling and a Chardonnay.
  • Finding Waldo – Susan waxes poetic over an $18.95 Crémant de Bourgogne she fell in love with and thinks you will, too.
  • Full-bodied reds – A swag of them – from Australia, a Kilikanoon and Valletta Grenache and a Saltram ‘Mamre Brook’ Shiraz; Domaine du Vieux Lazaret from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the fabled 2007 vintage; and Alexander Valley Vineyards ‘Redemption Zin’ Zinfandel from California.
This winecurrent newsletter begins with18 wines reviewed from a feature in the Vintages Release catalogue on wines earning 90 and plus points from various critics, followed by wines in the order of the Main Release.

90 Point Feature

**** drink now
Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2004
Mendoza $21.95 (155713) 14.0% alcohol
Deep-purple hued and alluringly aromatic, this wine offers an irresistible nose of sweet, dark, ripe berry fruit, toast, spice and earthy notes. Dry and medium-full bodied, the dark fruit—black berries and cherries— is quite focused with spice, pepper and toast tantalizing the palate. Mature tannin and fine acidity provide the requisite balance. Enjoy now with hearty grilled fare or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kilikanoon ‘Prodigal’ Grenache 2007
Claire Valley, South Australia $29.95 (927582) 14.5% alcohol
This is full flavoured, balanced and simply delicious. Grenache is one of the ‘other’ varieties in the Riesling-rich Clare, but one to be reckoned with. Perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit and kitchen spice presage a juicy, fully textured, luscious river of sweet mulberry and dark ripe cherry mingling with mocha and nuances of fennel. Ripe supple tannin and good moderating acidity provide the lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste with structure and balance. It’s value-laden and good to pour now and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Valletta Grenache/Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $37.95 (225136) 15.0% alcohol
Dark, almost opaque, it rips from the glass with a heavily perfumed bouquet of exotic spice, bramble berry and cola. It’s medium-full bodied, balanced with generous mouth feel delivering a gusher of juicy black Bing cherry, boysenberry and racy cranberry. It finishes lengthy, brimming with spice-infused, dark, raisined berry fruit underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Perfect with the grilled red meats you take off your Big Green Egg. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (18796) 15.5% alcohol
Loved the ’05, this is equally as good and a lovely example of quality Barossa Shiraz at an attractive price—it’s plush and brimming with well-balanced flavour. Perfumed with black pepper, eucalyptus and rich dark berry fruit, this washes over the palate in silky smooth waves with black plum, dark cherry and boysenberry galore interspersed with a moderating dollop of good lively acidity. The lingering juicy aftertaste layers on dark bittersweet chocolate and red cherry. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Concha Y Toro ‘Marqués de Casa Concha’ Syrah 2008
Buin, Maipo Valley $19.95 (19042) 14.5% alcohol
Involved aromas abound with cherry, dark berry, spice and aromatic bitters predominant. There’s a lovely mouthful of flavour that washes in endless waves—sweet ripe mulberry, black plum and black pepper-laced cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy aftertaste framed by good moderating acidity with a firm tannin structure. Good to go now paired with grilled strip loin or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Malandes ‘Vielles Vignes Montmains’ Chablis 1er Cru 2008
AOC Chablis $29.95 (16626) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of crisp Granny Smith apple, white peach and slate abound. It’s full of nerve and verve on a medium bodied frame with a monumental +30-second mouth-watering finish. Punching well above the price, it’s textbook traditionally styled Chablis with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Poured perfectly with freshly shucked briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 

AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $33.95 (983650) 14.5% alcohol 

Tantalizing and appealing aromas of ripe, spicy berries, licorice and roses ascend from the glass. Full bodied, it has a mouth-filling and silky texture with ripe fruit flavours that bathe the palate along with velvety tannins and fine acidity. The extended finish displays lingering notes of dark chocolate and toast. Wonderful now, it can cellar for a decade or more—a great choice. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Leone de Castris ‘Messapia’ Verdeca 2009
IGT Salento $14.95 (221879) 12.5% alcohol
Produced from a lesser-known indigenous white grape varietal, this is dry, medium-bodied and well-balanced with fresh and flavourful notes of white flowers, citrus and pear. Bright and tangy, it offers a refreshing texture and lengthy finish. Enjoy with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (222810) 14.0% alcohol
The ruby tone of this wine is echoed in the enticing aromas and flavours of ripe red berries and cherries. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and rounded, the fruit predominates with subtle exotic spices perfuming the wine. In fine balance, the wine has a lasting, slightly warm finish graced with delicate notes of spice and toast. Enjoy it now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Di Ghizzano Veneroso 2007
IGT Toscana $29.95 (103218) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend sports fruit-forward, silky-smooth, palate-bathing flavour and a long delectable aftertaste. Cherry, bramble berry, mint and hints of leather and spice dominate the nose while the palate and lengthy aftertaste is bathed with balanced juicy fruit—red cherry, black plum, and kirsch liqueur mingling with hints of fennel. Decant/aerate a couple of hours and pour alongside veal marsala. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ramos Pinto ‘Duas Quintas Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro $21.95 (951301) 15.0% alcohol
Inky purple, this blend of classic Port grapes—Touriga Naçional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca—is rich and fruity, offering nuances of spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied and satin smooth, it displays a defined structure of firm tannin and refined acidity. The tasting experience is delicious—ripe fruit, peppery warmth, spicy toast and a bit of espresso. It’s very tasty with a lasting dry finish, it’ll cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Lomond Syrah 2008
WO Cape Agulhas $19.95 (146464) 14.0% alcohol
Dry and mid weight, this is expressive—red fruit, floral notes, spice and subtle herbs rush from the glass. Firm tannin and light acidity underlay fresh fruit—raspberries and black cherries—and a robust peppery note. Nicely balanced, it’s a match for lighter meats and will cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Arrocal 2008
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (67868) 14.0% alcohol
This delivers good value, pick up a couple. Jumping from the glass with lifted aromas of aromatic bitters, exotic spice and gamey notes, it coats the palate with plush, sweet black fruit—bramble berry and cherry—plus notes of dried, raisined currants. It finishes lengthy, balanced and brimming with flavour—sweet herbs, tangy red cherry and blueberry—moderated by good acidity, framed by perceptible tannin. Decant/aerate two hours pouring with spaghetti Bolognese or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Bodegas Lan ‘Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (42929) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, kitchen spice and hints of leather waft from this traditionally styled Rioja. A bracing laser-like stream of flavour covers the palate and racy, tangy mid-length aftertaste—red currant, sour cherry and spice-infused mulberry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a solid tannin underpinning coupled with lots of French/American oaky tones. Better after 2013 poured with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $37.95 (674952) 15.0% alcohol
This is complex, well balanced, brimming with flavour and terrific value—a California-Cab lover’s delight. Dark berry fruit, charry toast, espresso roast and hints of mint on the nose, it hits full stride with a persistent well-balanced stream of complex, juicy tangy flavours—pie cherry, sweet black currant and mint-infused black plum. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, juicy, fruit-filled, licorice-laced finish. Drinking well now, pour with grilled rack of lamb or beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Siduri Pinot Noir 2009
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $37.95 (159293) 14.3% alcohol
Russian River Valley demands your attention—it’s über-terroir for Pinot Noir. The fragrant nose of aromatic bitters, dark toast and sprigs of mixed spice and herbs precedes a full-flavoured wave of delicious flavour with red currant, ripe mulberry and spice-infused red cherry rippling over the palate. It’s mid weight and fully textured with a long, balanced, juicy finish laced with ripe dark berries. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Santa Ynez Valley $21.95 (225409) 13.4% alcohol
Pale yellow/green, this is tangy, pungent and aromatic with citrus, herbs and grassy green tea. It’s dry, medium-bodied, bright and mouth-watering fresh, offering pithy grapefruit and lemon pie on the palate. There’s a dash of white pepper and spice on the lengthy finish. Classic matches such as seafood or a salad garnished with goat cheese are in order. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cooper Mountain ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $29.95 (510750) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from certified biodynamic grapes, this is a fine ruby red with enticing aromas of cherry, berry, earth and spice. Suave and silky, fine tannin and fresh acidity are a lovely counterpoint to the depth and intensity of fruit and spicy notes. A seductive finish keeps you coming back for more. Grilled cedar-plank salmon, anyone? (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

**** drink now
Burmester ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port
DOC Douro $24.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol
Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is food friendly with a long delicious sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or Amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

Anderson Valley $28.95 (0294181) 12.0% alcohol

Made from 100% estate grown grapes, this sparkler is an assemblage of four different vineyards and some of the reserve wines are oak aged resulting in great complexity and roundness on the palate. Aromas of apple, pear and lightly toasted coconut are displayed on the nose followed by sweeter, riper fruit on the palate. In the mouth it’s dry and medium bodied with bright acidity and a creamy mousse. (Lindsay Groves)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (0048793) 12.0% alcohol

Pale-salmon hued, this is absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it wiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Malivoire Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (960765) 375 mL 13.0% alcohol 

Balanced and beautifully integrated aromas and flavours mark this top-notch Chardonnay. Spice box, slate and orchard fruit aromas jump from the glass. It’s mid weight and generously textured with waves of deftly balanced flavour washing over the palate and lip-smacking finish—racy citrus, ripe pineapple and nuances of vanilla. It’s mid weight with a round mouth feel delivering good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Megalomaniac ‘Narcissist’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (067587) 10.9% alcohol
Nicely focused aromas of lime, slate and apple introduce this medium-bodied, nicely textured, impeccably balanced beauty. There’s a mélange of ripe fruit flavour with white peach, Bosc pear and Fuji apple to the fore mingling with a tangy spine of moderating acidity. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, refreshing citrus—lemon-lime sherbet and pomelo. ‘Pairs extremely well with delusional fantasies of wealth, power, and occasionally, omnipotence.’ (credit their website) (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hidden Bench ‘Terroir Caché’ Meritage 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $35.20 (505610) 13.5% alcohol
From one of Ontario’s top-drawer wineries, this abounds with toast, floral and cedar aromas. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, it ripples over the palate with waves of black raspberry, juicy Bing cherry and a spray of cassis. It’s a well-balanced package layering on lip-smacking cranberry and sour cherry on the racy refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Reif Estate ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (935676) 13.0% alcohol
Pure ruby in hue, the aromas entice—berry, red plum, sweet spice and vanilla. Dry and medium-bodied with a satiny texture, this wine is loaded with concentrated ripe fruit flavours coupled with nuances of spice and white pepper. Approachable and enjoyable, it’s a match for herbed grilled pork. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Wildass Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (71712) 12.5% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby, this wine packs a fruity punch—cherry/berry, subtle rose aromas and a hint of spice. Dry, substantial and flavoursome, there’s a fresh backbone of acidity to balance the basket of red fruit—strawberries, raspberries and cherries—as well as the spicy peppery note that carries through the finish. Enjoy it chilled on the patio, or with your favourite, light, barbeque fare. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink now
Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2007
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $24.95 (205815) 14.9% alcohol
This is a lovely light-on-its-feet Chardonnay that’s surprisingly moderate and restrained. Delicate aromas abound with wisps and nuances of orchard fruit, mixed spice and slate. The palate’s washed with a persistent wave of tropical fruit, ripe apple and moderating spoonfuls of citrus. The medium-length finish showcases good balance and an interesting hint of red licorice. Poured perfectly with roast chicken or crab cakes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Ironstone Chardonnay 2009
California $15.95 (355776) 13.5% alcohol
This offers great value—pick up a few—and it’s beautifully balanced with loads of flavour. Fresh lively aromas rip from the glass—citrus, floral and mineral—presaging a juicy mouthful of ripe pear, green apple and moderating citrus acidity. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel while flavours replay throughout the well-balanced, mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bonny Doon ‘Contra Red’ 2009
Central Coast $19.95 (247031) 13.5% alcohol
Winemaker/vigneron Randall Graham’s creativity shines through here in this imaginative field blend. It’s fresh and lively on the nose bristling with spice and red berry fruit while the palate’s treated to a focused stream of racy acidity with cranberry and red currant predominant. It finishes crisp and refreshing seeking a plate of spaghetti Bolognese or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Vintners Blend’ Shiraz 2008
California $17.95 (135350) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet, ripe fruit bathes the palate—juicy black Bing cherry, sweet ripe mulberry and black plum compote. It’s mid-full weight and nicely balanced with plush texture and a soft underpinning of supple tannin complemented by good moderating acidity. The fruit-filled aftertaste ties the bow on a well-packaged Zin. Poured perfectly with grilled spicy back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Alexander Valley Vineyards ‘Redemption Zin’ Zinfandel 2007
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (224147) 15.7% alcohol
Dry Creek has been a prime Zin appellation since 1870. This rockets off the crowd-pleasing scale with involved aromas, a gusher of fruit, hi octane and a monumental finish. Cherry/berry, sharp spice and raisiny notes dominate the nose before a tsunami wave washes over the palate—kirsch liqueur, raspberry jam and black plum preserve moderated by a stream of tangy acidity. It’s medium-full bodied, very generously textured and surprisingly balanced on the juicy tangy finish. If big, juicy, flavourful reds hit your sweet spot, don’t hesitate… pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Merlot 2007
Sonoma County $19.95 (497933) 13.8% alcohol
Floral notes, cherry cola and mixed spice aromas waft from this balanced, complex red. Delicious flavours wash in waves with blueberry, cassis and bramble berry mingling with spice and hints of cedar. It’s mid weight, nicely textured sporting a mid-length balanced aftertaste of sweet ripe mulberry balanced with spice-infused racy red currant. Pour now and over the next four years alongside grilled strip loin with sides of grilled portobello mushroom caps and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (467944) 14.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, herbal tones and black cherry on the nose, it bathes the palate with a juicy, tangy mouthful of red berry fruit, blueberry and nuances of dill. It’s medium weight, nicely textured showcasing a mid-length finish garnished with fine-grained tannin. Pour alongside spicy wings or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann ‘Art Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (605741) 14.5% alcohol
The legendary Lehmann, doyen of the Barossa, fashions yet another gem—well balanced, nicely structured with a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Mixed spice and dark cherry/berry fruit aromas replay on the palate with a wash of ripe black Bing cherry, dried roasted berry fruit and mint. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lively tangy long-lasting finish of red cherry and racy red currant. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saltram ‘Mamre Brook’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (32227) 15.5% alcohol
A behemoth in weight and flavour, there’s sufficient acidity and tannin to keep this balanced and beautiful. It’s from low-yielding older vines, a heat-spiked vintage and 22 months in French and American oak. A tsunami wave of rich concentrated flavour—boysenberry, kirsch liqueur, chocolate-covered cherries and hints of oak and tar—roars over the palate. The lengthy viscous aftertaste layers on juicy dark fruit interlaced with espresso roast and black plum compote. Lovers of value-packed, big, juicy, Aussie reds—load up the trunk. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Spinyback Pinot Gris 2009
Nelson, South Island $14.95 (214569) 14.0% alcohol
Golden-hued, this is off-dry and quite substantial, displaying lifted aromas of stone fruit, sweet citrus and spice. The texture’s satiny and the acidity fine with fruit and spice replaying across the palate. The finish is warm and tangy. It earned an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Summerhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (218305) 13.5% alcohol
Chockfull of charming flavour, silky smooth texture and a lingering lip-smacking finish; it’s difficult to better at this price. Sweet spice, tropical fruit and wisps of grassy aromas give way to a gusher of mouth-watering flavour—racy lemon, gooseberry and oodles of tropical fruit. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a long juicy finish. Pair with prawn ceviche or freshly shucked oysters under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2009 

Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol
This is brimming with flavour, balanced on a pin and simply scrumptious. Look for a perfumed array of involved aromas with dark berry fruit, earthy tones, floral notes and spice box predominant. It bathes the palate with well-structured balanced flavour—briary berry, racy red currant and blood plum. It’s medium weight and gorgeously textured with a charming fruit-filled aftertaste. Lovely sipped on its own, it’s also delicious paired with duck—smoked breasts or terrine. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
R de Rieussec 2007
AOC Bordeaux $22.00 (100891) 12.5% alcohol
This is unique and complex with mid weight, good texture and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Fragrant aromas of apple, mixed spice and lemongrass provide segue for a riveting wash of lip-smacking flavour with crisp green apple, lemon chiffon pie and ripe pineapple riding a wave of tangy acidity. The mouth-watering finish lingers looking for a pairing with mussels or clams steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Ferraton Père et Fils ‘La Matinière’ Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2009
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $19.95 (127720) 13.0% alcohol
Golden-cloured with aromas of stone fruit, floral and herbal notes, this has a silky smooth texture, flavours of stone fruit and apple, fresh acidity, and a pithy grapefruit note that punctuates the finish. Enjoy it with light grilled chicken and pork dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now two glasses
Château Hourbanon 2003
AOC Medoc, Cru Bourgeois $21.95 (125922) 13.0% alcohol
This is an impressive value-laden wine from a hot vintage. Vic and I both enjoyed it. Garnet in the glass, it proffers complex aromas—dark berry, dried cherry, herbal notes and a whiff of cedar. Dry and mid weight with a firm structure and fresh acidity, the intriguing replay of flavours on the palate captivates. The long, refined aftertaste calls for more, so consider a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now two glasses
Domaines André Aubert Côtes du Rhone-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhone-Villages Visan $12.95 (224915) 14.0% alcohol
Susan and I loved this and think you will, too—at this price run, don’t walk, pick up a few. Predominantly Grenache, it opens with aromas of black licorice, spice and dark berry fruit showering the palate with a rich luscious wash of ripe black currant, juicy tangy cherry, toasty notes and hints of black pepper. It’s mid weight, well textured with balance and a lingering fruit-forward aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine – missed on June 25th release, surprisingly still available

****drink now
Château ‘la Cour de l’Evéque’ Rosé 2010
AOC Côtes de Provence $17.95 (319392) 13.0% alcohol
A large appellation, synonymous with Rosé and 60% of volume devoted to it, it’s been perfected over the decades to match local fare like bouillabaisse a.k.a. fish stew. A shimmering onion-skin hue presages aromas of spice, strawberry and mandarin orange. Silky smooth and brimming with flavour—strawberry, spice-infused blood plum interlaced with a nice dollop of white grapefruit—it finishes in a mouth-watering blaze of lip-smacking flavour. Gorgeous on its own and versatile with food—fifty million Frenchman can’t be wrong, try bouillabaisse. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

**** drink now
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling 2009
QbA Mosel $12.95 (596601) 8.5% alcohol
Reliably consistent, this light and lovely off-dry Riesling is highly aromatic and loaded with floral and fruit aromas. Nicely balanced and soft on the palate, enjoy the notes of stone fruit, lime, mandarin and spice, offset with fine acidity. It’s a lovely sipper with a long lasting fruity finish. It gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Baglio di Pianetto ‘Shymer’ Syrah/Merlot 2008
IGT Sicilia $15.95 (219501) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is heady with dark fruit, vanilla, savoury herbal and perfumed floral notes. Dry, full bodied and intensely flavourful, it’s rich with black fruit—cherry, berries, black plum—and a peppery and slightly smoky note. All that rich fruit is framed by perceptible tannin while the warm peppery note persists on the fruity finish. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Cormi Corvina/Merlot 2007
IGT Veneto $17.95 (108282) 13.5% alcohol
Underbrush, dill and cherry/berry on the nose, it’s juicy, racy and tangy on the palate with a focused stream of sour cherry, black currant and spiced black plum to the fore. It’s dry, medium bodied with a solid tannin underpinning and mid-length finish replaying the fruit and spice layering on nuances of mocha. Good value here, the price quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: July 23, 2011

****1/2 drink now
Château Puech-Haut ‘Prestige’ 2009
AOC Coteaux-Du-Languedoc $26.95 (237289) 14.5% alcohol
Puech-Haut translates to a hill above others; this Grenache/Syrah blend also stands out. Dark roasted herbs, cola and black currant aromas interlaced with black licorice and mocha dominate the expressive nose. A measured, rich, well-balanced stream of flavour flows over the palate with tangy black currant, minty cherry and dark briary berry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky smooth texture and concentrated lengthy aftertaste of dark berry fruit and savoury herb supported by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 20, 2011

**** drink now
Vintage Ink ‘Rite of Passage’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (245712) 13.5% alcohol
Expressive, perfumed aromas—sweet floral, baking spice, apple and lemon-pie filling—herald a medium-bodied, fully textured Chardonnay. Flavours abound on the palate with ripe pear, crisp apple and sweet ripe pit fruit to the fore. It cleans up crisp and refreshing with a mid-length finish showcasing tangy white grapefruit. Pour with clay-baked chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 10, 2011

**** drink now
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Merlot - Cabernet 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with a subtle nose of dark roast, spice and espresso roast, this delivers a juicy wash of fruit-forward flavour—red cherry and black currant mingling with spiced blood plum. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and well balanced throughout. It finishes warm and fruity framed by good moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 2011

****1/2 drink now
Rosewood Estates Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.20 (211896) 14.0% alcohol
This is complex and flavourful with a silky smooth texture. Aromas of cedar, black currant, dark cherry with undertones of oak provide segue for a gusher of deftly balanced fruit-forward flavour—blueberry, mulberry and juicy Bing cherry. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel, supple tannin and a lengthy luxurious aftertaste. Decant/aerate two hours and pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 2012

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $22.20 (211896) 14.0% alcohol
Rich lifted aromas of spice-infused dark berry fruit, mocha and tobacco stream from the glass. This is chewy and tangy with good nerve and verve expressed via a solid stream of mint-infused red cherry and bittersweet chocolate interwoven with black plum and spice. It’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel and a solid tannin underpinning. Decant/aerate a couple of hours serving with grilled spicy back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Winter 2012

****1/2 drink now
Rosewood Estates ‘Süssreserve’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164483) 11.0% alcohol
Value-packed and brimming with off-dry flavour, it’s a beautiful thing. White peach, floral notes and pear aromas mingle with nuances of slate before a gusher of delicious flavour coats the palate and lengthy aftertaste. Look for ripe honeyed fruit—mango and peach—juxtaposed against vibrant tangy lemon-lime sherbet. It’s well balanced, mid weight, nicely textured and lip-smacking yummy. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages: Vintages Essentials - always available in select LCBO stores

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d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2008
McLaren Vale $19.95 (942904) 14.5% alcohol
This is a delightfully approachable, full-flavoured blend that’s deep ruby with violet tones. It’s intensely fruity with overtones of spice, pepper and vanilla on the nose. Dry and medium-full bodied, the berry fruits—blackberry and raspberry—are deftly balanced with toasty oak. Perceptible tannin and fresh acidity offer fine counterpoint to rich ripe fruit, a delectable note of chocolate lingers on the finish. It’s a good choice for robust grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Bodegas Julian Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo Reserva’ 2005 

DO Navarra $15.95 (479014) 13% alcohol
Here’s a red blend—Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot—delivering a delicious mouthful of flavour-packed value. Black currant, spice, minty cherry and cassis on the nose and palate, it washes over the palate in waves with a good underpinning of dusty tannin. Mid weight with a generous mouth feel, the lingering well-balanced finish is fruit-forward and refreshing. Great with grilled t-bone, ribs or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Willm ‘Réserve’ Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace $15.95 (11452) 12.5% alcohol
Dry, zesty and juicy, this medium-bodied hand-harvested Riesling offers a bouquet of aromas with floral, stone fruit and citrus predominant. On the palate, it’s a pure citrus play—grapefruit and lemon/lime to the fore with flinty notes. They replay on the lingering tangy aftertaste making a great match with creamy seafood linguini. (Susan Desjardins)

New in LCBO Portfolio

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Farnese ‘Cerasuolo’ Rosé 2010
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $8.95 (233429) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a lovely value-laden, candy-apple Rosé with subtle aromas of woodland strawberries packing a fruity punch on the palate. Dry and fresh with the taste of red cherries and berries and a hint of sweet spice, the fruit’s nicely balanced with a lively seam of acidity. Savoury and flavourful, it’s a tasty sipper on its own or a good match with grilled chicken and mushroom salad. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Mendoza, Argentina $12.95 (218842) 13.5% alcohol
Excellent value, complex flavours, balanced to perfection… how’s that? Spice box, charry toast and berry fruit on the nose, there’s a flavour-laden gusher over the palate—bright red cherry and ripe sweet mulberry—borne along on a mid-weight generously textured underpinning. The balanced tangy aftertaste lingers, but you shouldn’t. Pick up a few to pour with ribs, steak, burgers, whatever you pull off the BBQ. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Trumpour’s Mill ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (69336) 12.5% alcohol
Light-pink hues presage glorious aromas of honeysuckle, whiffs of rosewater and tropical fruit. Riveting waves of citrus acidity—lemon zest and white grapefruit—stream throughout with nuances of apricot and lemongrass. It’s paired well with freshly shucked oysters or mussels steamed in this white wine. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Trumpour’s Mill ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 (230227) 13.0% alcohol
Garnet hued, this offers classic aromas of beetroot, red cherry, cranberry and smoky vegetal, herbal notes. Dry, light bodied and taut, the aromas replay on the palate riding a wave of vigorous acidity. Hints of roasted peppers and garden herbs persist on the dry finish. Decant prior to serving with herb-roasted lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Trumpour’s Mill Riesling 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $12.05 (28258) 12.0% alcohol
This pale-straw hued, light-on-its-feet beauty sports aromas of citrus, melon, mineral and a whiff of petrol. Sweet fruit and key lime pie flavours ride on a silky texture framed by tangy acidity and it’s lengthy and lip-smacking good on the finish. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour—sip chilled on the patio with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Sogrape ‘Vila Regia Reserva’ 2008
DO Douro, Portugal $12.95 (613950) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of rich, ripe, dark, berry fruit, cedar and spice cake stream from this juicy tangy blend of four of the top Port grapes. Balanced flavours of savoury red cherry and cranberry interweave with ripe mulberry on the palate and lengthy finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with good acidity and a grainy tannin underpinning. It earned its final half star on good value. It struts its stuff with spicy food—wings or ribs work well. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

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Rosewood Estates ‘Reserve – Natural Fermentation’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $28.20 14.0% alcohol
There are sweet vanilla, butterscotch and pear aromas galore in this vibrant refreshing Chardonnay. Palate-bathing flavours of green apple, ripe yellow peach and toasty oak persist through the lengthy fruit-filled finish. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured needing only another year in bottle to strut its stuff—it’ll knit together beautifully allowing the oak to melt into the background. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment

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Panilonco Chardonnay 2011
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $11.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, green apple and floral notes waft from this well-balanced long-finishing gem. Fresh and lively on the palate, there’s a persistent wash of fruit-forward flavour with ripe orchard fruit, zesty lemon pie filling and hints of persimmon. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured sporting a mouth-watering aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Salisbury Chardonnay 2011
South Eastern Australia $18.20 12.5% alcohol
Pineapple, mango with hints of honeysuckle on the nose, there’s a fresh and lively wash of apple compote and yellow plum on the palate. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced with a splash of Viognier (5%) and a lengthy finish of ripe peach, poached pear and racy citrus. Pour alongside supermarket take-out rotisserie chicken and roast potatoes. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan