Winecurrent

June 11, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • A quintet of gems – the ‘Ontario Feature’ showcases five new wines and you wouldn’t go wrong buying at least one of each. Take a look; they’re special.
  • Finding Waldo – this Chianti Classico Riserva racked up 4 ½ stars @ $22.95 as one of the top price-quality red-wine ratios in the Main release.
  • Vic’s pick – Peachy Canyon ‘Westside’ Zinfandel 2007 is a $21.95 4 ½ star gem you’ll find under California: Red Wine.
  • Go local – just doesn’t mean food. Following the main release you’ll find 12 wines in the New in Ontario Wineries section and another 7 from Ontario in the New in LCBO Portfolio. You owe it to yourself to give a few a try; they’re local and they’re great wines.
This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from Veneto, Italy followed by a mini-feature of 5 ‘new’ wines from Ontario with the Main Release following.

Veneto, Italy Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Remo Farina ‘Monte Fante Riserva’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $62.95 (063636) 15.0% alcohol
This is rich and luscious Amarone that’s a step up in price and two steps forward in quality; it’s great value. Aromas of cola, dried berry fruit and aromatic bitters provide segue for a layered complex wave of flavour with black currant, ripe mulberry nestling with all spice and dark toasty notes. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and deftly balanced with a luxurious lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Giacomo Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $53.95 (204826) 15.0% alcohol
Intensity of color and fragrance—berry fruit, spice, earthy underbrush and subtle toasted nut—is matched on the palate. Well integrated, balanced and complex, this full-bodied red offers a lovely velvety texture, rich fruitiness and some delectable underlying notes of cocoa and toast. The lengthy finish offers a spicy lift to the rich ripe fruit. Savour it now with aged Parmigiano Reggiano or over the next several years. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zeni ‘Vigne Alte’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $39.95 (230607) 15.5% alcohol
This is absolutely delicious with oodles of fruit and dark chocolate flavour. Aromatic bitters, dark field berry fruit and mixed spice on the nose, the palate’s bathed with a rush of delectable flavour—dried berry fruit, ripe black currant and fig. It’s full-bodied and fully textured with espresso roast and chocolate galore on the warm lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Giuseppe Campagnola ‘Casotto del Merlot’ Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Valpolicella Classico $29.95 (84079) 500 ml 13.0% alcohol
Deep garnet in colour, richly textured and deliciously fruity, this medium-full bodied sweet wine is produced from grapes dried on mats after picking. Enjoy a lifted nose of chocolate-coated dried cherries, berries and dark smoky toast. On the palate it’s intensely rich, fruity and sweet with spice, chocolate and vanilla notes. The luxurious finish is lasting warm and fruit filled. Enjoy this unique product on its own or savour with Glengarry’s Blue Haze cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tenuta Sant’Antonio ‘Monti Garbi’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008
DOC Valpoicella Superiore $17.95 (29850) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, this is a classic blend that delivers enticing aromas of cherry, berry and plummy fruit with some subtle notes of spice, pepper and cocoa. Dry and medium bodied, the flavours are consistent, the red fruit emphatic. Well crafted and beautifully balanced, some smoky toasty notes persist on the finish. Enjoy this value-laden wine with your favorite meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Zeni ‘Margogne’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella $17.95 (220830) 14.0% alcohol
Smoky notes mingle with dates and charred toast on the nose while the palate’s treated to a ripe, red and black berry—currant and raspberry—and kirsch liqueur. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with good moderating acidity. The finish is lengthy, dry and balanced with a delightful dollop of bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tedeschi Corasco 2008
IGT Rosso delle Venezie $15.95 (216440) 14.0% alcohol
This deep ruby blend of briefly dried Corvina with Refosco and Raboso offers intriguing aromas of flowers, red fruit, savoury olive, spice and pepper. Dry, medium bodied, richly textured, consistently fruity and flavourful, the wine is characterized by fine tannin, lively acidity and some elusive earthy notes. Complex and attention-grabbing, this is great value. Try it with steak fajitas—you may need more than one bottle! (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Dal Maso ‘Montebelvedere’ Cabernet 2007
DOC Colli Berici $16.95 (224733) 13.5% alcohol
Here is another nice value and a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Dry, medium-full bodied and deftly balanced, this offers lively red berry fruit aromas, spice and smoky toast. A fresh seam of acidity carries the bright cherry/berry flavours along with sweet spice lingering on the dry, yet fruity, finish. Very approachable and enjoyable, try it with pasta in meat-based sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
San Raffaele ‘Monte Tabor’ Pinot Grigio 2009
IGT delle Venezie $14.95 (204768) 12.5% alcohol
From a long-standing organic grape grower, this lovely pale-gold white offers distinctive aromas of pears, sweet ripe apple and a light floral note. Dry and light bodied on the palate, orchard fruit and fresh citrus are balanced with fine acidity leading to a refreshing mid-length finish. This is an approachable, delectable wine to serve on its own or with chicken salad with toasted pecans. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sue-Ann Staff Estate ‘Robert’s Block’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (231415) 11.0% alcohol
Almost transparent with faint green notes, this is a finely crafted wine with delightful complexity on the nose—floral, stone fruit, sweet citrus aromas and a whiff of mineral and petrol. Dry, light-medium bodied, there’s a clean backbone of acidity, fine minerality and persistence of stone fruit and fresh citrus. Refreshing and consistent through the finish, the tang of lime lingers. It’s a serious Riesling that’s a lovely summer sipper. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Alvento ‘Elige’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (226019) 13.0% alcohol
Spice box, toasty oak and hints of dill aromas presage a persistent stream of racy tangy flavour with pie cherry, racy cranberry and gamey notes predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and underpinned by a spine of acidity and dusty tannin. The long dry finish adds a dollop of red grapefruit. Decant/aerate a couple of hours before pouring with Swiss steak or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rose Hill ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (233841) 13.0% alcohol
From a new producer, Cellaria Winery, this is an impressive blend, ruby-hued with lifted aromas of toast, dark berry fruit and spiced vanilla. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s velvety smooth with fine ripe tannins and fresh acidity balancing the core of rich dark fruit, sweet spice and hint of chocolate. There’s great fruit persistence and a whiff of smoky toast on the finish. Great value from the storied 2007 vintage, the wine will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peninsula Ridge ‘Beal Vineyards Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (226001) 13.0% alcohol
Deep ruby with a hint of garnet at the rim, this is a well structured elegant Cab with appealing aromas of ripe dark fruit and subtle notes of roasted herbs, cedar and vanilla. It’s medium-full bodied and all about balance—well-integrated oak, ripe tannin, fine acidity and rich ripe berry fruit. The finish is long, dry and toasty. Excellent value, enjoy tonight with your favorite grilled meat. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.00 (227033) 11.7% alcohol
Rich, almost honeyed on the nose, with some spicy tropical-fruit aromas, this pure golden wine is plush and hefty on the palate. Weighty, yet dry, fresh acidity balances rich honeyed fruit flavours that linger on the finish. A very flavourful mouth-filling white, match it to grilled chicken with a spiced peach sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Main Release

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
Deutz Champagne ‘Classic Brut’
AOC Champagne $54.95 (0710038) 12.0% alcohol
Medium straw in colour with a tinge of copper, this stunning Champagne shows notes of citrus, yeasty bread, apple, quince and floral/pollen. The bracing acidity on the palate cuts through the creamy texture and medium weight, resulting in a nicely balanced palate with a lengthy finish. (Lyndsay Groves)

**** drink now
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654)
This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 (033951) 12.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit, earthiness and notes of forest floor fill out the aromas while the palate-coating flavours are carried on a solid tannin underpinning and tangy acidity—cranberry, pomegranate and red cherry. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured with berry fruit and spice on the drying finish. Decant/aerate three hours and serve with smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Dutton Estate ‘Dutton Palms Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
Russian River Valley $54.95 (234856) 14.5% alcohol
Muscular, full bodied and fully textured, this is absolutely delicious. Nutty, caramel and toasty oak on the nose the layered and luscious flavours coat the palate and senses with poached pear, caramel apple and lemon chiffon pie competing for your attention. The lingering finish is crisp and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $49.95 (346304) 14.5% alcohol
Classy and full of swagger, this makes a stylish entrance with aromas of smoky oak, vanilla and tropical fruit. It charms the palate with waves of sophisticated flavour, ripe Bosc Pear, sweet white peach and spice-infused citrus wreathed in nutty nuances. It’s mid weight, creamy textured and dishes up a delicious, fruit-forward refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Belle Glos ‘Meiomi’ Pinot Noir 2009
Sonoma Valley/Monterey County/Santa Barbara County $26.95 (130138) 13.9% alcohol
Semi-opaque and ruby hued, this is a dry mid-weight Pinot offering layers of aromas and flavour—on the nose, floral and sweet spice, red fruit and a hint of earthiness. There’s deft balance, fine tannin and fresh acidity supporting the rich red cherry/berry flavours. Fine notes of vanilla and cinnamon toast linger on the finish. Enjoy with veal, tomato and mushroom casserole. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Le Cigare Volant’ 2006
California $39.95 (975847) 13.5% alcohol
This inky blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, with a dab of Mourvèdre and Carignan offers some intriguing complexity on the nose—rich red fruit, smoke, forest floor and a floral note. Dry and full bodied, the palate is lively with red berry fruit, fines herbes and spice, delicate acidity and ripe tannin balancing the depth of fruit flavours. The finish is lengthy, smooth and satisfying. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Joel Gott Zinfandel 2008
California $21.95 (224139) 14.4% alcohol
This is a charming, restrained-for-a-Zin, good-value red. Toasty notes, kitchen spice and dark berry fruit on the nose, it glides over the palate with a well-balanced and nicely textured river of cassis, black raspberry and ripe cranberry. It’s medium bodied sporting a lengthy, crisp refreshing finish—each glass as good or better than the glass before—that fronts up well to spicy, grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2009
Russian River Valley $44.95 (906404) 14.5% alcohol
This is a well-balanced red from a premium producer and Pinot-friendly terroir with loads of fruit and a silky-smooth mouth feel. Toast, dark fruit and underbrush on the nose, the palate’s bathed in sweet, ripe cherry/berry flavour with nuances of minerality and earthiness. It’s medium bodied with long involved finish of dark berry fruit, exotic spice and cola. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peachy Canyon ‘Westside’ Zinfandel 2007
Paso Robles $21.95 (930644) 14.8% alcohol
This is textbook Zin—full flavoured, fleshy and jam-packed with dark berry fruit. Spice-infused black currant and minty black cherry aromas abound while a torrent of fruit-forward flavour coats the palate—sweet, ripe bramble berry, cassis and spiced black plum compote predominant. It’s generously textured sporting a lingering, jammy fruit-laden finish with good moderating acidity and perceptible fine-grained tannins. It pours well with grilled back ribs coated in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Syrah 2007
Napa Valley $39.95 (590356) 14.3% alcohol
This isn’t ‘petite’ and it’s not Syrah, but it’s certainly delicious. The lifted nose is vibrant and fresh with red cherry, mixed field berry and spice notes. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a lip-smacking splash of moderating acidity interwoven with fruit flavours—bramble berry, ripe juicy mulberry and leafy tones. The dry lingering finish showcases a solid tannin structure. Decant/aerate three hours and pour with rare-grilled rack of lamb or cellar and drink 2013 - 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $19.95 (985002) 14.0% alcohol
The colour, aromas flavours all speak to ripe dark extracted fruit. This is an approachable wine, full bodied and balanced with tannin and acidity appropriate to the focused fruit flavour. Notes of smoky toast and vanilla persist on the finish. Good value and a great choice for a barbequed rib-eye. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Chakana Estate ‘Selection’ Malbec 2009
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $19.95 (219261) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, it turns out to be a light-on-its-feet expression of Malbec with great focus and racy flavours—juicy cranberry, sour cherry and spiced blood plum. There’s a lip-smacking surge of tangy red berry fruit on the finish framed by a burr of grainy tannin. Pour with spaghetti Bolonaise, meat-laden pizza or veal scallopini with tomatoes. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Aconcagua Valley $15.95 (510339) 13.5% alcohol
Pale straw with hint of green, this wine is heady with aromas of gooseberry, citrus, grass and asparagus. Dry and light bodied, it’s pleasantly tart and tasty, the lengthy finish delivering persistent flavours of citrus and gooseberry. Deftly crafted and good value, serve it with seared tuna or sautéed scallops. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Arboleda Merlot 2008
Aconcagua Valley $18.95 (045864) 14.5% alcohol
Loads of rich, ripe and jammy fruit alongside spice box and espresso roast on the nose, this delivers a balanced mouthful of cassis, pie cherry and dark berry fruit. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a medium-length finish with an underpinning of dry tannin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cono Sur ‘Visión Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (689992) 14.0% alcohol
Silky smooth on the palate, this dry, mid-weight, ruby-toned Pinot arrives with aromas of ripe spicy red fruit, vanilla and cocoa. Fine tannin and acidity balanced the ripe cherry/berry fruit with notes of vanilla and toast garnishing the mid-length finish. It gets an extra half star for value and can be enjoyed with lighter meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Cono Sur ‘Visión’ Syrah 2007
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (024661) 14.0% alcohol
Smoky, toasty and dried berry fruit aromas presage a rich and luscious wash of bramble berry, black currant and spice. It’s mid weight, well textured and deftly balanced showcasing an expressive delectable aftertaste of cassis, red currant and all spice. It finishes long and luxurious with good fruit and hints of mocha. Always good value from Cono Sur. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Emiliana Novas ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot2008
Maipo Valley $14.95 (685792) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from organic grapes, this purple-hued fruit-forward blend offers enticing aromas of rich dark fruit, smoky toast, sweet herbs and spice. Dry and full bodied, the dark plummy fruit, spice and toast replay on the palate and lengthy warm finish. Very appealing—it gets an extra half star for value—it’s a hit at summer barbeques. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Emiliana ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Los Morros, Maipo Valley $18.95 (208397) 14.5% alcohol
Coffee, toasty notes and dark berry fruit on the nose, it delivers a boatload of rich and expressive flavour washing over the palate in waves with kirsch liqueur, black juicy Bing cherry and spice box to the fore. It’s mid weight, nicely balanced and well textured with a fruity, smoky finish that’s underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Give it a go with rare-grilled strip loin or rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Falernia ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2007
Elquí Valley $15.95 (208371) 14.0% alcohol
This is a straight-forward red offering aromas of mocha, berry fruit and sprigs of herb and spice. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a pleasant wash of balanced fruit-forward flavour—bramble berry, red currant and hints of peppered strawberry. The dry mid-length aftertaste weaves in hints of leafy savoury notes and tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate ‘E-Minor’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (71043) 14.0% alcohol
From an estate renowned for its premium red wines comes the little brother. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy this dry, full-bodied inky purple red that’s fragrant with ripe dark fruit, pepper and toasty vanilla. It offers robust flavours of red and black berries, pepper and notes of espresso. Finely balanced with well-integrated oak and consistent through the lengthy finish, it’s excellent value. Bring on the barbie. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Friends’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa, South Australia $18.95 (660480) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 9 months in American oak puncheons, this is a crowd-pleasing Shiraz loaded with aromas and flavours of rich ripe dark fruit, sweet spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, intensely fruity and an approachable red, it offers persistent notes of toasty oak on the finish. It offers great value that’s perfectly paired with herbed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann ‘Stonewell’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $79.95 (724625) 14.5% alcohol
Well structured with a bold tsunami-wave of flavour, this pushes all the right buttons—the doyen of the Barossa strikes again. Toasty oak, dark berry fruit and black licorice on the nose, it shifts into gear with a rush of balanced palate-coating flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and spiced blood plum. The finish is lengthy and brimming with sweet ripe mulberry interlaced with dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma ‘Old Bush Vine’ Grenache 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (108068) 14.5% alcohol
A subtle nose of mixed field berry and kitchen spice provides smooth segue for a glorious river of cassis, boysenberry and mixed spice flavour. Medium bodied, juicy and delicious, it sports a lingering aftertaste of dark berry fruit, espresso roast and minty cherry underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. Pirrimimma seldom misses the sweet spot. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Quarterback 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (219451) 15.5% alcohol
This a gem—rich and layered with warm fruit flavours and a lip-smacking juicy aftertaste. Aromas and flavours of sweet mulberry, boysenberry and black cherry persist throughout. It’s full-bodied with a generous mouth feel and a toasty, oaky lingering finish underpinned by supple tannin and racy red berry fruit. Pour alongside grilled spicy back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Konrad ‘Bunch Selection’ Riesling 2009
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (94086) 8.5% alcohol
Pale-straw coloured, this is a flavourful appealing Riesling offering tantalizing aromas—floral, citrus, petrol and mineral. The sweet stone fruit leads on the palate followed by a clean seam of refreshing lime-infused acidity. The finish dishes up a lingering note of sweeter citrus. Zesty and tasty, it’s the perfect wine to serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2008
WO Western Cape $14.95 (328559) 14.0% alcohol
Aged in large French oak barrels and in bottle for several months, this golden-hued Chardonnay is aromatic with sweet stone fruit, lemon pie and toasty oak. Dry and medium-full bodied with a mouth-filling texture, the palate’s rich with flavours of ripe orchard fruit, some citrus notes and a replay of the toasty oak that carries through the lingering finish. It’s a good choice for pasta in cream sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thelema Shiraz 2006
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (146431) 14.5% alcohol
With touches of power and elegance, this showcases aromas of toast, mocha and dark fruit heralding a balanced juicy mouthful of black and red currant mingling with sprigs of mixed spice and spiced blood plum. It’s medium weight with a generous texture while the lengthy finish infuses notes of dark chocolate and hints of fennel. Punching well above the price, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Domaine des Malandes Chablis 2009
AOC Chablis $18.95 (111658) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-straw coloured, this is classic, delivering fresh aromas of green apple, citrus and mineral. Dry and light-medium bodied, the texture is silky, the citrus vibrant and the acidity palate cleansing. It’s consistent and finely balanced through the lengthy fresh finish. Enjoy it with pan-fried perch with a squeeze of lemon. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château Bégadanet 2005
AOC Médoc $17.95 (138875) 12.5% alcohol
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lead in this red blend—it’s deep ruby, dry and firmly structured. It offers intriguing aromas of plum, berry fruit, grilled herbs, spice and earthiness. There’s good depth of ripe berry fruit on the palate along with herbs and spice persisting through the savoury finish. This offers good value from a heralded vintage. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (177618) 15.0% alcohol
This offers subtle aromas of earth, dark fruit, herbs and spice followed by robust impactful flavours—rich dark berries, plum and spice. Full bodied with a firm structure, refreshing acidity and a dry lengthy finish, this wine is designed for cellaring. It’s a grand choice for that special dad on Father’s Day. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Batasiola ‘Bosc DLA Rei’ Moscata d’Asti 2010
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $16.95 (028175) 5.5% alcohol
This summer-in-a-glass, low-alcohol gem sports an alluring nose of rose petals and Turkish delight with loads of exotic spice. It’s an easy-going uncomplicated spritzy white that’s quite refreshing in spite of the sweet fruit flavour—peach, pear and tropical fruit. Always a summer favourite sipped on its own or with fresh fruit—in a salad or flan. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $22.95 (946962) 14.0% alcohol
Sweet fruit, spice and leather aromas waft from the glass of this pale-ruby gem. Dry, medium bodied, it’s nicely balanced with a silky texture. Fresh acidity and firm tannin complement the ripe fruit, sweet spice and notes of toast that persist on the finish. It’s a refined harmonious red with a fresh dry finish. Enjoy with tagliatelle in meat sauce or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 14.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of red cherry and spice herald an explosion of flavour that coats the palate with dark, juicy Bing cherry, ripe mulberry and bramble berry riding a lovely wave of moderating acidity. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with an impressive aftertaste melding in espresso roast and dark chocolate. It’s perfectly paired with rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Duorum Tinto 2008
DOC Douro $16.95 (215699) 12.5% alcohol
Vinified with premium Port grapes, this is expressive and brimming with rich concentrated fruit. It’s a gargantuan red, full bodied and generously textured with an endless river of flavour—black currant, spice-infused red and black cherry mingling with espresso roast and black licorice. The long finish is fruity, balanced and lip-smacking good. If your budget stretches, pick up more than one. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Conde de Valdemar Reserva 2004
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (947309) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 18 months in French and American oak, this deep-ruby-hued red is fragrant with cigar box, dark cherry, berry and sweet spice aromas. Dry and medium bodied, the palate’s bright with fresh berry fruit, notes of spicy toast and pepper balanced with lively acidity and fine tannin. This perennial favourite is lengthy on the finish and pours perfectly with grilled beef and root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Fontanafredda ‘Briccotondo’ Barbera 2009
DOC Piemonte $15.95 (72348) 13.5% alcohol
This perennial favourite is a Vintages Essentials red always available in select LCBO stores. Expressive aromas of dark wild berry, spice and meaty notes introduce a formidable wash of juicy tangy flavour with pie cherry and ripe sweet mulberry galore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced lip-smacking aftertaste. Versatile at the table, pour with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or hard aged cheese. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2 drink now
Bouchard Aîné et Fils Beaujolais Supérieur 2009
AOC Beaujolais Supérieur $11.95 (009431) 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of lilac, spice and candy apple introduce a good wash of fruity flavours—sweet grapey notes and cherry cordial. Offering good value, this is friendly and straightforward throughout with good moderating acidity and a generous mouth feel. Chill slightly and sip on its own al fresco or serve with white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Bouchard Aîné et Fils Beaujolais-Villages 2009
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $12.95 (143727) 12.5% alcohol
This is semi-transparent crimson with red and dark berry notes on the nose along with hints of pepper and spice. It’s a nicely balanced red offering a fresh juicy texture, red berry fruit and a clean, slightly peppery, finish. Enjoy it with pizza or light-grilled summer fare. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Bouchard Aîné & Fils ‘Cuvée Signature’ Pinot Noir 2009
AOC Bourgogne $16.95 (665406) 13.0% alcohol
This is cherry red and aromatic with beetroot, herbs and red berry aromas—it’s an appealing and classic Pinot Noir. Lively and lip-smacking fresh, there are juicy summer berries and cherries on the palate with a note ofearthiness. Nuances of dried herbs linger on the balanced finish. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Aligoté 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.55 (284950) 13.0% alcohol
This crisp and refreshing beauty delivers a generously textured mouthful of green apple and lemon sherbet interlaced with the aromas of mineral and nashi pear. It’s excellent value, versatile and delightful—pour as an aperitif, a patio/balcony sipper or pair with steamed mussels or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (284950) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a light-on-its-feet sipper that’s clean, crisp and refreshing. Apple, pit fruit and exotic spice on the nose, it delivers a wash of spice-driven flavour with green apple and ripe pear to the fore. The finish cleans up nicely in a shower of citrus and spice. Sip on its own or pair with lighter-styled appetizers like slices of warm grilled chicken laid over Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.55 (061499) 12.5% alcohol
This is a dandy, it’s a classy offering with great balance and structure—you’d be hard pressed to find better at this price point. Sharp crisp aromas of apple, pear and slate herald a persistent wash of delectable slightly off-dry flavour with lemon-lime sherbet to the fore. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. Great producer, great wine, great price… what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2009
VQA Ontario $13.95 (270926) 13.0% alcohol
Only $12.65 until June 18. Pungent gamey and toasty aromas mingle with wisps of cigar box and dark berry fruit before washing the palate with tangy flavours of dark berry fruit and spice-infused sour cherry. It’s mid weight and well textured riding a spine of bracing acidity throughout. It finishes lip-smacking good with dark berry fruit and hints of smoky oak. This ratchets up after a two hour decant poured alongside with what you do on your Broil King—burgers, back ribs or chunks of grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
Barrel fermented in French oak and aged sur lie, this traditionally crafted wine is attractive and refined. There are subtle aromas of vanilla, caramel, ripe pear and stone fruit. Creamy in texture, the ripe fruit replays on the palate alongside spicy notes and tantalizing nuttiness. Balanced, well integrated and medium-full bodied, there’s a refreshing piquancy on the finish. Enjoy it with grilled chicken and mushroom salad. (Susan Desjardins)

*** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (439281) 13.5% alcohol
Raspberry and blueberry on the nose, this is mid weight and nicely textured supporting a wash of tangy racy flavour on the palate with red currant, pie cherry and strawberry predominant. It finishes clean and refreshing with nuances of spiced black plum and kitchen spice. Give it a go with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

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Konzelmann ‘Canada Red’ Zweigelt 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (200535) 13.0% alcohol
This is food friendly and plays well with others; it’s a party wine to be poured alongside burgers, pizza or spicy wings. The racy spicy aromas and flavours on the palate include a boatload of tangy flavour—red currant, cranberry and pie cherry. It’s mid weight, lightly textured and surprises with a delightful balanced aftertaste of red cherry and sweet black plum compote. (Vic Harradine)

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Mommessin Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Vin de France $9.95 (201160) 13.0% alcohol
This deeply coloured straightforward Cabernet offers a nose of herbs, crushed leaf and black berry fruit. The tannins are perceptible and the acidity’s fresh. Berry flavours along with a nuance of grilled peppers persist through the lengthy finish. A good match for barbequed veggies and meats, it earned its final half star on value. (Susan Desjardins)

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Mommesin Chardonnay 2009
Vin de France $9.95 (201178) 13.0% alcohol
Aromatic and perfumed, aromas of floral notes and tropical fruit waft easily from this nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing sipper. There’s medium weight and generous texture on the palate with green apple and honeyed peach flavours following through to the lip-smacking refreshing finish. Good value here and it’s versatile—sip on its own or pair with all manner of seafood or lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Mommesin Grenache/Syrah 2009
Vin de France $9.95 (201152) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of red cherry and dark berry fruit infused with spice follow through on the palate of this value-driven red blend. It’s light-on-its-feet with a mid-length finish of ripe cherry and notes of strawberry. Chill slightly if sipped on its own or poured with a mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mommessin ‘Les Epices’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2008
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $32.95 (42242) 14.0% alcohol
Excellent value, this classic red blend delivers interesting complexity on the nose and palate with generous texture and deft balance. Ripe berry, herbes de provence, vanilla and cocoa aromas tantalize, leading you to a lovely taste experience—rich ripe fruit, notes of cocoa, sweet spice and toast—all framed by ripe tannins and fine acidity. Approachable and accessible now, it pairs well with herbed rack of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Painter Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
California $12.95 (219113) 12.7% alcohol
Aromas of spice box, aromatic bitters and cherry presage a generous stream of pie cherry, dark berry fruit and nuances of mocha. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a layered and lingering fruity cherry/berry aftertaste. Delivering a world of value, it earned its final ½ star on the value it provides. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries


***** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench $25.95 (453415) 13.0% alcohol
Structured, elegant and from the fabled 2007 red-wine vintage, a spice-infused bouquet of rose petal and dark berry fruit abounds. Palate-bathing flavours persist throughout with cassis and black juicy Bing cherry mingling with toasty notes and espresso roast predominant. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured sporting well-integrated oak nuances and a supple tannin structure—certainly in the top 2 or 3 Cab Francs tasted from ’07. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (453472) 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from a small, 1 hectare single vineyard, perfumed aromas roll from the glass—rosewater, tropical fruit and exotic spice. This showcases soft ripe fruit flavours—white peach, mango and spiced yellow plum—interwoven with a creamy smooth texture and delightful moderating citrus acidity. The palate and aftertaste deliver that slightly off-dry sweet and tang experience pairing so well with spicy Asian cuisine, also sipping well on its own. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Barrel Fermented - 4 Generations’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.20 13.5% alcohol
This explodes on the palate with a burst of delectable flavour finishing in a blaze of mouth-watering tangy acidity—it’s simply lovely. Peach, apple and baking spice aromas presage a roaring river of green apple, ripe yellow peach and sweet pear entwined with nutmeg and caramel nuances. The lingering lip-smacking aftertaste layers on more of the same. Pour alongside roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 13.0% alcohol
Mineral, leafy and nettles on the pungent nose, this light-on-its-feet delicately textured Savvy delivers a tart and focused stream of racy lemon-lime and white peach. It’s clean, crisp and refreshing with sleek, lip-smacking aftertaste of white grapefruit. Comes into its own poured with grilled calamari rings or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

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Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.20 13.0% alcohol
Just in time for summer sipping, this sports a delicious, crisp and refreshing mouthful of fresh and lively fruit-laden flavour—strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb. It opens with attractive aromas of floral notes and freshly sliced strawberry replaying those on the mouth-watering refreshing finish. Good wine with good texture at a good price. (Vic Harradine)

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Lailey Vineyard ‘Canadian Oak’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara River $35.20 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from low-yielding 15-year-old vines only 70 cases were produced—move quickly. The incredible nose of rose petals, minerality, spice and berry fruit is totally captivating. Winemaker Derek Barnett credits the Scott-Henry trellising and tri-clone selection—115, 667 and 777. There’s a steady wash of palate-bathing flavour persisting through the lip-smacking aftertaste—black currant, pie cherry and beetroot interlaced with spice and lovely wisps of mocha. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Lailey Vineyard ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara River $45.20 12.5% alcohol
Complex, well structured and delicious, Pinot-lovers won’t want to miss this—pick up a case, share with a friend. Ruby-hued with oodles of spice, there’s also red berry fruit and wisps of smoke on the nose. Racy, tangy flavours form a river of pomegranate, pie cherry and spice-infused blood plum. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lip-smacking fruit-forward aftertaste wreathed in spice, supple tannin and wisps of well-integrated oak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard ‘Lot 48’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $60.20 13.0% alcohol
Only 2 barrels—48 cases—of this exclusive hand-crafted Pinot were made. The gorgeous fruit-forward aromas waft easily from this complex, nicely structured brawny Pinot—spice-infused berry fruit, savoury spice with hints of underbrush. There’s lots going on here with waves of flavour cascading over the palate—ripe mulberry, juicy red cherry and lip-smacking red currant—underpinned by solid tannins wreathed by moderating acidity. Give this a go 2013 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rosewood Estates Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $20.20 12.5% alcohol
This is a striking red that evolves in the glass. There’s pungency on the nose, then enticing complex aromas of dried herbs, vanilla, dark chocolate, figs and dark fruit. It’s satiny, fresh and lavish on the palate with savoury herbs, dark berry, plum, smoky toast and an appealing persistent note of dark chocolate. Pour alongside rare-grilled beef. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Rosewood Estates ‘Mead Royale’ Honey Wine 2008
Ontario $18.20 500 mL 13.0% alcohol
Honey, floral and peel marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate and aftertaste with spice-infused mandarin orange, apricot and honeyed fruit chutney. It’s light on its feet and finely balanced with a mid-length finish. Serve slightly chilled alongside aged hard cheese. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates ‘Süssreserve’ Riesling 2008
VQA Creek Shores $18.20 (164483) 11.0% alcohol
The floral and citrus aromas provide segue for a mélange of flavours with white grapefruit, Granny Smith apple and ripe white peach predominant. Light-bodied and delicately textured, its nicely textured with a sweet and tang aftertaste crying out for spicy cuisine—pad Thai, Cajun oyster fritters or spicy corn cakes. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Rosewood Estates Sémillon 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.20 13.0% alcohol
A stunning wine with perfumed aromas of citrus and buckwheat honey, it bursts on the palate with a delectable racy river of flavour—honeyed citrus and racy grapefruit with high notes of peach and mango. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and a generous mouth feel. The lip-smacking finish is lengthy, crisp and refreshing. Sip on its own or pair with breaded and skillet-fried calamari. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan