April 30, 2011 Vintages Release

‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ Taste and Buy Event - Ottawa and Toronto!

This event will be their first in Canada. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to taste rare back-vintages and other iconic wines from 11 renowned wine families.

Ottawa – May 4, 2011 - Walk around tasting 6:30 to 9:00 pm - $79 
Toronto – May 5, 2011 - Walk around tasting 6:30 to 9:00 pm - $79

Find out more information at the LCBO website.

Winecurrent news - Susan Desjardins is tasting and spitting her way through Italy while Vic Harradine’s back in the country, handling the Vintages releases and other bits.


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 


• Charles Baker ‘Riesling’ – this 2008 vintage 5-star gem from Niagara is mouth-watering, balanced ambrosia. It’s in the ‘Main Release’ and not to be missed.
• Southbrook ‘Connect - Organic’ Rosé – Ann Sperling led the team that fashioned this outstanding Rosé. It’s in ‘New in Ontario Wineries’; give it a try.
• Finding Waldo – it’s a 4½ star $14.95 gem from Mendoza
• AFFW – Australia’s First Families of Wine provide examples of wine with character and a sense of place a.k.a. ‘terroir’ or ‘somewhereness’. Give a few of these a go—they’re in the Main Release. These families represent 1200 years of winemaking experience producing sought-after, iconic Australian wines.

This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from southern Italy followed by the Main Release.

Southern Italy Feature

Torrevento ‘Vigna Pedale Riserva’ 2006
DOC Castel del Monte $19.95 (208256) 13.0% alcohol
This is a racy refreshing red that’s beautifully structured and brimming with flavour. Exotic spice, vanilla and berry fruit on the nose, it delivers a rush of vibrant fruit on the palate with red cherry, rhubarb compote and spice-infused black plum to the fore. It’s mid weight with a good mouth feel and a lengthy ripe-fruit finish underpinned by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Giordano ‘Collection’ Primitivo di Manduria 2008
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $16.95 (051797) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of wild berry and spice box mingle with nuances of tobacco on the nose of this crowd-pleasing Primitivo. It’s quite a mouthful of ripe sweet fruit—brambleberry pie and Bing cherry—that’s balanced nicely with a dry lingering aftertaste of racy red currant and tangy sour cherry supported by perceptible tannin. Pour alongside pasta in spicy meat sauce or spicy gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Leone de Castris ‘Salice Salentino’ Rossa Riserva 2006
DOC Rosso Riserva $16.95 (597534) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet rich cherry/berry aromas mingle with aromatic bitters and Asian spice providing segue to a tangy and lip-smacking wash of flavour—sour cherry, pomegranate and ripe field berry. Medium weight and nicely textured, it sports a dry lingering aftertaste bolstered by good moderating acidity and barely perceptible fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Firriato ‘Etna Rosso’ 2008
DOC Etna $16.95 (219592) 14.0% alcohol
This red-blend of indigenous grapes dishes up a rich luscious mouthful of delectable fruit at a value-packed price. Spice, cherry and cola on the nose, it delivers an endless river of flavour on the palate and lingering finish—red currant, black juicy cherry and ripe mulberry galore. It’s smooth as satin and nicely balanced with an aftertaste layering on nuances of ripe grapes and hints of leather. (Vic Harradine)


Morgante ‘Nero d’Avola’ 2008
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (040816) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring and involved on the nose, this rustic red gem jumps from the glass with aromas of cedar, mixed kitchen spice and dark berry fruit. A delectable mouth-coating wave of rich flavour persists through the balanced finish with juicy chocolate-covered cherry mingling with red currant and dried cranberry. The price quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few and open over the next couple of years. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Dessert Wine

Campbells ‘Rutherglen’ Muscat
Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia $19.95 (225425) 375 mL 19.5% alcohol
One of the wine world’s best-kept secrets, Rutherglen fortified ‘stickies’ are treasures that rank highly alongside the best dessert wines in the world. Exotic aromas and incomparable layered flavours of peel marmalade, honey cake and spice-infused crème brûlée coat the palate. It’s viscous and unctuous through the lingering finish of caramel and hints of green tea and nuttiness. All that… and it’s lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Chandon ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine
California $24.95 (100693) 13.0% alcohol
This classy party starter—it’s made in the same manner as Champagne—delivers enough oomph to pair with your hors d’oeuvres and has ample charm to be sipped on its own. Leesy earthy aromas introduce a profusion of fine-streamed bubbles laced with freshly picked strawberry and spice-infused tangy red grapefruit flavour. The lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste is crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Charles Baker ‘Stratus – Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2008

VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.20 10.5% alcohol

Highly perfumed aromas of diesel, slate and lemon zest dance from the glass of this dazzling expression of Riesling at its finest. The third vintage tasted—all 5 stars—and this the best to date; it showcases a slightly oily texture with a persistent wash of focused, racy citrus and kiwi fruit along with streaks of mineral. The tension, nerve and verve on the palate are palpable, delivering a mouth-watering shower and lip-smacking, lingering finish of bracing, balanced ambrosia. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire ‘Mottiar’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (146985) 13.0% alcohol
Balanced and beautifully integrated aromas and flavours mark this top-notch Chardonnay. Spice box, slate and orchard fruit aromas jump from the glass. It’s mid weight and generously textured with waves of deftly balanced flavour washing over the palate and lip-smacking finish—racy citrus, ripe pineapple and nuances of vanilla. It’s mid weight with a round mouth feel delivering good value. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Gold Series’ Red Meritage 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (224675) 13.5% alcohol
Smoke, oak and espresso roast on the nose, it showcases a shower of balanced juicy flavour with rich ripe mulberry and ripe black currant melding with savory spice underpinned by a solid tannin structure. Medium bodied and well textured, it pours well with spicy smoked back ribs or grilled spicy gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Norman Hardie ‘County’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $35.20 (125310) 11.5% alcohol
From the doyen of Pinot Noir in these parts, this is juicy, tangy and full of nerve and verve. Spice, red berry and dark toast aromas roll from the glass while the palate’s treated to a rush of tangy cranberry, spice-infused red currant and nuances of earthiness. It’s well structured and oozing class and charm with its deft balance and laser-like focus. It’s an excellent sipping red made better poured with grilled, smoked duck breast. (Vic Harradine)


Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (237065) 13.3% alcohol
This is estate grown, bio-dynamic, and silky smooth. It’s layered and flavour-laden offering substantial mouth feel with a balanced and lengthy finish. Aromas and flavours of black currant, juicy spice-infused black plum and ripe mulberry abound throughout. It’s mid weight sporting a delectable aftertaste of racy red cherry and mixed spice. There’s enough oomph and ripe tannin underneath to enjoy a bottle now while tucking a few away for short term cellaring. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Red 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.20 (131037) 13.5% alcohol
This Stratus flagship red blend—blending or ‘assemblage’ is their touchstone and raison d’être—is made up of the two Cabernets, Merlot and a splash of Gamay to round off any edges. It’s juicy, full-bodied and generously textured with a deftly balanced flavour profile of racy red currant, spice-infused black currant and mineral-laced red cherry. It finishes mouth watering and lengthy. Good to go now with a three-hour decant and poured with grilled rare to medium-rare steak. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Irony Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $19.95 (027409) 14.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, vanilla and orchard fruit aromas provide segue to a well-constructed Napa Chardonnay delivering a delightful mouthful of ripe fruit and good moderating acidity. Flavours of Granny Smith apple, yellow plum and ripe honey dew melon abound on the palate joined by racy tangy citrus tones on the lengthy balanced finish. Pouring well on its own, it pairs beautifully with roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2007 

Napa Valley $28.95 (258186) 14.0% alcohol 

Built for now and short-term cellaring, this is a dandy—well structured, deftly balanced and downright delectable. Buttered toast and citrus on the nose, it bathes the palate with a wash of flavour—spice-infused green apple, ripe pear and nectarine. It’s medium-full bodied, smooth as silk with a refreshing aftertaste. Give it a go with lobster dipped in drawn-butter or butter-dotted, pan-seared tuna. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Atrea ‘Old Soul Red’ 2006
Mendocino County $27.95 (214825) 14.8% alcohol
Layered and luxurious, there are charming aromas of dark berry fruit, Asian spice and fennel. The flavours are warm and balanced with blackberry, red cherry and luscious cassis mingling with mixed spice and black tea. It’s drinking beautifully with good years ahead—the ripe tannin underpinning and excellent balance between fruit and acidity bode well for the future. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured sporting a delectable aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Clos du Bois Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
North Coast $18.95 (181685) 13.5% alcohol
It’s rare to find better California Cab at this price; it dishes up a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Dark berry fruit, tobacco and mixed spice on the nose, this offers a flood of flavour with rich dark chocolate-covered cherry, spice-infused black plum and hints of fennel persisting through the dry aftertaste. There’s good moderating acidity and a perceptible tannin structure throughout. (Vic Harradine)


Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Oakville, Napa Valley $129.95 (539098) 14.5% alcohol
Mineral, earthy and dark berry fruit aromas open this iconic California Cab. Dense and delectable, the palate’s treated to a viscous rush of rich luscious layered flavour with minty cherry, sweet cassis and black currant predominant. It’s full-bodied, generously textured providing a lengthy balanced luxurious aftertaste. Good to go now, aging easily a decade or more. (Vic Harradine)


Sebastiani Merlot 2006 

Sonoma County $18.95 (219162) 13.5% alcohol 

This is fully flavoured and value packed with a complex, rich and aromatic nose of mixed berry fruit, black plum, spice and toasty notes. It’s a delight on the palate dishing up a balanced and fruit-forward mouthful of flavour—black currant, cassis and good moderating acidity via ripe cranberry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, smooth as silk, fruity finish. What’s not to like? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Sequana Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008
Santa Lucia Highlands $39.95 (213884) 14.5% alcohol
Santa Lucia Highlands, within Monterey County, is a Pinot Noir hotspot. This was hand-picked, hand-sorted and cold soaked. Each parcel was fermented separately with, primarily, wild yeasts. It was hand punched-down then aged eleven months, on the yeasts, in French oak barrels. Savory herbs and red berry fruit aromas presage a light-medium bodied, nicely textured and well-balanced red currant, ripe cherry and strawberry flavour. The aftertaste is lengthy and mouth-watering. (Vic Harradine)


St. Francis ‘Red Splash’ 2007
Sonoma County $18.95 (213629) 14.5% alcohol
This is a crowd-pleasing California red blend with flavour-laden complexity at an attractive price. Sweet luscious layers of flavour abound on the palate with juicy ripe Bing cherry, bittersweet chocolate and sweet cassis galore. It’s medium-full bodied with a lovely textured mouth feel and lengthy rich aftertaste. Enjoy on its own or pour with grilled strip loin, either way it’s under that $20 threshold and terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Chakana ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $14.95 (018671) 14.0% alcohol
Oak, smoke and berry fruit aromas provide segue to a wave of ripe fruit-laden flavour with tangy red cherry, juicy blackberry and a spine of good moderating acidity. It’s nicely balanced, medium bodied and well textured with resolved tannin and a lengthy balanced finish. Drinking well now either on its own or paired with meat-laden pizza or burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Clos de los Siete 2008 

Mendoza $21.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol 

“Par Michel Rolland”, this blend is deeply coloured and fragrant with aromas of roses, blueberry pie, cedar and vanilla. Ripe black berry flavours are framed by perceptible tannin and lively acidity. Medium-full bodied, the wine has some interesting nuances of herbs and underbrush. Dry on the finish, there’s a nice bite of tangy, bitter chocolate. (Susan Desjardins)


Finca Flichman ‘Gestos’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Tupungato/Barrancas, Mendoza $14.95 (199711) 14.5% alcohol
Pick up a few of these; it’s a flavour-laden gem at a fabulous price earning its final ½ star on value. Aromas of dark toast, Asian spice and dark field berry fruit stream from this beautifully textured Cab. Mouth-coating fleshy flavours persist in waves with ripe black currant, juicy mulberry and crème de cassis mingling with summer savory. Mid weight and quite well textured, it blossoms on the balanced, lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


La Posta ‘Cocina Blend’ 2008
Mendoza $12.95 (199513) 13.5% alcohol
This is value-laden red blend offers a huge mouthful of juicy sweet ripe fruit. Aromas and flavours of brambleberry, cedar and clove and dark plum compote abound. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and well balanced, with a lengthy fruit-filled finish. Not complex or complicated and certainly not expensive. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Viña Peralillo ‘Arenal’ Carmenère 2009
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (211409) 14.0% alcohol
Cedar and espresso roast on the nose, this nicely structured organic Carmenère offers an eco-friendly red at fair value. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with good fruit and a solid tannin underpinning. It showers a racy tangy wash on the palate—sour cherry, dark berry fruit and mixed spice—finishing balanced and lengthy with more of the same emblazoned with hints of minty plum. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage with potato rösti. (Vic Harradine)

Australia’s First Families of Wine

* The ‘Jimmy Watson Trophy’ is one of the most sought-after and prestigious in Australia. Jimmy Watson’s grandson now handles the wines at this iconic, Melbourne restaurant and wine bar. During a recent visit, grandson Simon opined that Australia had lost its way by giving in to mainly overseas-export market pressures to label its wines by varietal, rather than sub-region and/or specific vineyard site, giving weight to terms like ‘Aussie Shiraz’ or ‘Aussie Semillon’ etc. as if it could be uniformly applied to all Australian Shiraz or Semillon. The wines that follow are from a group of twelve family-owned wineries who put an exclamation mark on Simon’s assertion. They’re passionate and dedicated to their roots and the roots of the vines producing these terroir-driven wines with a serious sense of place. They understand that great wine is produced from great fruit from great vineyard sites. They get it, and you should get it, too—some of their wine, that is.

* Langton’s is a classification of highly sought-after Australian wines that tracks auction prices for the ‘best’ wines Australia has to offer the world. There are 123 wines listed in four tiers from the 2000-odd wineries producing two or three hundred thousand Australian wines. To highlight how the eleven family wineries in this Vintages Release stack up, they’ve garnered a staggering 15 spots of 123 in the current Langton’s Classification. If you live in or near Ottawa or Toronto, you can taste some of them – see the beginning of this newsletter.


De Bortoli ‘Noble One’ Botrytis Semillon 2007
New South Wales $29.95 (917252) 10.0% alcohol
One of Australia's most decorated wines; it also rates as one of the wine world’s notable and affordable dessert wines. The lifted nose of exotic spice and honeyed citrus notes presages a rich luscious and deftly balanced mouthful of peel marmalade, crème brûlée, honeyed lemon curd and sautéed pineapple followed by a lengthy luxurious aftertaste. Did I mention it’s delicious? (Vic Harradine)


Tahbilk Marsanne 2009 

Nagambie Lakes $16.95 (117945) 13.5% alcohol 

Pear, floral and honeyed nuances on the nose, this opens up nicely on the palate with tangy citrus and ripe white peach flavours. This dances lightly with nice texture, good balance and a crisp refreshing aftertaste. It sips well on its own and pairs well with sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Tyrrell’s ‘Lost Block’ Semillon 2010
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $15.95 (933200) 11.5% alcohol
Fresh, crisp and lively, this opens with involved aromas of lemon-lime, honeydew melon, green apple and beeswax. It’s light-medium bodied with a slightly oily texture and flavours of racy citrus and hints of red licorice powered by a focused stream of refreshing acidity. Pour with pan-seared fish or pan-fried breaded calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Yalumba Viognier 2009
Eden Valley, South Australia 24.95 (954644) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas galore here with honeyed tropical fruit, ripe melon, nutty nuances and citrus predominant. It’s mid weight with a silky smooth mouth feel and great balance. Textured and layered flavours of lemon rind, mango and ripe juicy pear mingle with brush strokes of spice through the lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. A delightful sipping wine, it pairs well with roast chicken or pork as well as pasta in creamy white sauce. (Vic Harradine)


d’Arenberg ‘The Twentyeight Road’ Mourvèdre 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (677617) 14.5% alcohol
Cedar, aromatic bitters and exotic spice aromas waft from this mid-weight deftly balanced beauty. A flavour-packed rush of well-articulated flavours—racy red currant, ripe juicy bramble berry and spice-infused black Bing cherry—coat the palate. The lingering finish layers on nuances of smoked meat. The tannins are ripe and fine grained extending the drinking window, not interfering with present-day consumption; just get it all the way home from the LCBO before uncorking. (Vic Harradine)


De Bortoli ‘DB Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2008
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (221994) 13.5% alcohol
This is nicely focused and full of flavour with great balance and a refreshing finish. Famous for their ‘Noble One’ dessert wine, De Bortoli shines with their table wines, too. Alluring aromas of savory herb, dark toast and red berry fruit segue a focused stream of tangy refreshing flavour on the palate and crisp, clean aftertaste—pomegranate, racy red currant and juicy red cherry. This shines poured alongside roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)


Henschke ‘Keyneton Euphonium’ 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $49.95 (720433) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend, primarily Shiraz, is from the ’08 heat-spiked vintage. It rips from the glass with involved aromas of dark berry fruit, smoked meat and black licorice. Full bodied, complex and generously textured, this dishes up a huge mouthful of ripe mulberry, crème de cassis and spice-infused black plum compote. Full of promise, make time for a two-hour decant or two years in the cellar before pouring alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Howard Park ‘Leston’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia $29.95 (923565) 14.0% alcohol
This is a cellar-dweller of magnificent proportions portending a drinking window of 2014 to 2019. From the quiet nose of spice, tobacco and mint a gusher of focused balanced flavour bathes the palate and the lengthy luscious spicy aftertaste—mint-infused black currant, juicy ripe mulberry and savory notes galore. It’s medium-full bodied, deep and brooding with a solid tannin underpinning. It should improve with age. (Vic Harradine)


Jim Barry ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
South Australia $23.95 (677476) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a lot going on here for the price; pick up more than one. ‘Cover drive’ is a cricket term for a ball struck toward a particular fielder; the Barry family is cricket mad. An alluring lifted bouquet of black licorice, chocolate and spice foreshadows the teeth-staining, palate-coating rush of rich, layered kirsch liqueur, tarry black cherry and mulberry coursing over the palate and through the lingering lip-smacking, balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)


Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia $23.95 (998476) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a gold-medal winning, glass-staining delectable gem—pick up a few and drink now to 2017. Black licorice, dark chocolate and mixed spice on the nose, it rips from the glass with waves of flavour washing the palate—tangy red cherry, kirsch liqueur and brambleberry mingling with black pepper and hints of truffles. Rich, layered and concentrated it’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and well structured with fine-grained tannins for support and longevity—magnificent effort from a challenging heat-spiked vintage. (Vic Harradine)


McWilliam’s ‘Mount Pleasant Estate Premium Vineyards’ Shiraz 2008
Australia $19.95 (082396) 14.0% alcohol
An iconic family winery from the Hunter, their Chief Winemaker 1932-1956 was revered Maurice O’Shea, championing table wines even earlier when the bulk of Aussie wines were fortified stickies. Bramble berry and savory spice on the nose, the multi-vineyard-sourced red is medium bodied and full of nerve and verve with a mouth-watering refreshing finish. Flavours of racy red currant and sour cherry abound leading to the tangy and focused refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Tahbilk Shiraz 2006 

Nagambie Lakes, Victoria $19.95 (214742) 14.0% alcohol 

Tahbilk is Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery with ancient Shiraz vines that are amongst the oldest in the world. Balanced and beautiful, look for toast, spice and berry fruit aromas as segue to a surge of fruit flavour—bramble berry, Bing cherry and succulent mulberry mingling with dark chocolate and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied, with a bounteous texture while the extended aftertaste layers on sprigs of mint and a fine-grained ripe tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa : Red Wine

Rustenberg ‘John X Merriman’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $27.95 (707323) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark toast, cedar and espresso roast drift from this red blend from historic Rustenberg—wine has been bottled here every vintage since 1892. Rich, layered and complex, there’s a delectable wash over the palate and through the lengthy finish with dark berry fruit, espresso roast and forest-floor nuances mingling with wisps of smoke. It’s a big full-bodied wine, almost dense, but very approachable now. Decant a couple of hours and pour alongside smoked grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Antoine Moltès & Fils ‘Gaentzbrunnen Terroir’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace $19.95 (108548) 12.5% alcohol
Crisp, clean and full of refreshing flavour, Riesling lovers will not want to miss it. Mineral, lime and slate on the focused nose, it rides a wave of crisp acidity throughout with racy mouth-watering flavours of key lime and lemon zest mingling with dollops of tropical fruit. A gem of a wine as a well-chilled sipper, it’ll front up well to baked ham or pan-seared bratwurst with sauerkraut. (Vic Harradine)


Cave de Hoen Pinot Gris 2009
AOC Alsace $16.95 (196790) 12.5% alcohol
From a top cooperative of 100+ dedicated growers, this off-dry effort is chockfull of spice-infused aromas and flavours. Honeydew melon, citrus, spice-infused pineapple and ripe sweet tropical fruit caress the palate and lengthy sweet and tangy aftertaste. It’s a great aperitif and a perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Château Boyrein 2009
AOC Graves $16.95 (205534) 12.5% alcohol
Rich fleshy and fruit-filled flavours abound in this medium-bodied well-textured blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. This is mid weight with a satin-smooth texture. Pit fruit, ripe citrus and red licorice garnished with sprigs of spice wash in waves persisting through the crisp clean aftertaste. It’s a delightful patio-sipper with enough body and presence to pair well with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Domaine Pierre Gelin Fixin 2006
AOC Fixin $31.95 (210898) 13.0% alcohol
Hints of barnyard, that’s a good thing in Pinot, and red berry fruit aromas provide segue for a smooth wash of fruit-laden flavour with juicy black plum, freshly sliced strawberry and racy red currant predominant. It’s well balanced and medium weight sporting a crisp refreshing red berry aftertaste. Given the quality and that it’s from a sub-appellation in Burgundy, the price is right. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Renaissance’ 2007
AOC Corbières $18.95 (148692) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a lovely blend of low-yielding Syrah plus Grenache, old-vine Carignan and Mourvèdre that captures you with alluring aromas of garrigue, mixed berry fruit and hints of earthiness. The palate’s awash with sweet ripe cherry and spice-infused dark berry fruit. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured delivering a long finish supported by ripe tannin and oodles of fruit flavour. (Vic Harradine)


Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Excellence’ 2008
AOC Costières de Nîmes $18.95 (708750) 14.0% alcohol
Smoked deli meat and Asian spice dominate the aromas in this medium-bodied nicely structured Syrah. Sour cherry and warm red berry compote are nicely aligned for good balance complemented by barely perceptible fine-grained tannin. The finish lingers adorned by nuances of earthiness and summer savory. Better when paired with food; give this a go with meat-laden pizza or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $17.95 (216408) 13.5% alcohol
Good value here with aromas of spice and berry fruit replaying on the palate along with a solid core of ripe fruit—red cherry, black plum and cranberry—mingling with good acidity, a hallmark of the Montepulciano grape, a solid tannin underpinning and lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured ratcheting up a notch or two paired with meat-laden pizza or pasta in spicy meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Fontanafredda ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo 2005 

DOCG Piedmonte $38.95 (943290) 14.0% alcohol 

Semi-opaque, with a hint of age on the rim, this Barolo displays true Nebbiolo aromas—violet, licorice, roses and red fruits. The initial perception is of ripe soft fruit, but the tannins and crisp acidity soon manifest themselves. Medium-full bodied, this is a well-made wine with a long dry, yet fruit-filled finish. Well-priced and designed for aging, it’s a great wine for the cellar or to be decanted and served with a substantial casserole. (Susan Desjardins)


Rocca di Castagnoli ‘Poggio a’Frati’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (023358) 13.5% alcohol
Dark field berry and mint-infused black cherry on the nose, this is a rock-solid CC Riserva with oodles of flavour—minty red cherry melding with vanilla, and cola. It’s deftly balanced with good mouth feel and dry lingering aftertaste of red cherry underpinned by perceptible, acceptable tannin. Pair with lasagna or pasta in spicy meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release: June 8, 2011

Cave de Rasteau ‘Ortas les Haut du Village Rouge’ 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau $21.95 (581785) 14.5% alcohol
Made only in best vintages, this blend—Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache—is dense, layered and succulent. Exotic aromas of licorice, espresso and tarry notes give way to a luscious mouthful of juicy flavour bathing the palate in waves —cassis, dark ripe brambleberry and Bing cherry. It’s medium bodied and generously textured offering a deftly balanced lengthy aftertaste. Divine paired with braised beef short rib. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: June 25, 2011

Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (64618) 12.3% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, graphite and mixed savory spice on the nose, the racy flavour rides a stream of crisp refreshing acidity. Red currant, sour cherry and hints of pomegranate wash over the palate replaying on the mouth-watering finish. This is truly showcased when poured with meat-laden spicy pizza or spaghetti Bolognaise. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: July 23, 2011

Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89011) 13.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas are full of verve and excitement—lemon chiffon pie and dazzling tropical fruit notes. There’s good tension between the ripe fruit—citrus and tropical—and the tangy acidity. It sports a gorgeous mouth feel and brims with flavour layering on nervy lemon-lime and a delightful wave of grapefruit on the crisp, lip-smacking finish. The perfect summer sipper and more—it pairs well with pan-seared fish, prawns and scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: September 10, 2011

Featherstone Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64592) 13.5% alcohol
Spice-driven perfumed aromas of rosewater and musk presage a gorgeous mouthful of flavour—spiced and honeyed citrus, ripe pineapple and yellow plum. It’s medium weight with a generous mouth feel and an off-dry, sweet and tang aftertaste that’s versatile—perfect when chilled and sipped on its own as an aperitif or paired with spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Familia Fantelli ‘Orgánico’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (194134) 13.6% alcohol
Here’s an up-scale, certified-organic Malbec that’s in short supply, but worth the hunt. It’s full of vitality with great balance throughout. Spice-driven aromas of berry fruit segue a juicy mouthful of mulberry and field berry flavours mingling with spice and underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannins. The lingering aftertaste is lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Family Estate Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (13904) 13.0% alcohol
This is well structured, nicely balanced and lip-smacking good. Aromas of cherry and earthy tones waft easily from this medium-bodied nicely textured Pinot. Racy cranberry, red cherry and tangy red currant wash over the palate and lengthy refreshing aftertaste in waves. It’s silky smooth throughout and really shines paired with roast chicken or grilled smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec 2009
Tupungato Valley, Argentina $11.55 (160952) 14.7% alcohol
This organic gold-medal winner earned the final half star on great value. Aromas and flavours of spice-driven black plum and dark field berry abound. It’s straightforward and uncomplicated, medium bodied and silky smooth on the palate with a lengthy fruit-filled finish. This pairs well with spicy cuisine—chicken wings, ribs and pasta in spicy meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Deakin Estate Shiraz 2009
Victoria, Australia $9.95 (560821) 13.5% alcohol
Easy drinking and gentle on the credit card, this offers good value. Aromas of dark cherry/berry and spice box introduce this nicely balanced, well textured Aussie. Flavours of juicy Bing cherry and sweet plum compote wash over the palate and flow through the lengthy aftertaste. A crowd favourite with grilled steak or burgers, it also matches up well with pasta in spicy meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Fuzion ‘Alta Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza, Argentina $9.95 (135475) 13.0% alcohol
A step above what may now be your go-to Malbec, aromas of dark toast, spice cake and espresso roast spill from the glass. There’s a rush of flavour on the palate with Bing cherry and juicy pomegranate melding with spice and floral notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with ripe tannin and lip-smacking fruit on the aftertaste. It gained its final half star on value. (Vic Harradine)


Gazela Vinho Verde Rosé
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $8.95 (125727) 10.0% alcohol
This is value-laden and a rock-solid choice as a deck or patio sipper or poured with sushi, chèvre-topped salads, fish or seafood. It’s frizzante—slight fizz felt on the tongue—and delightful delivering a light-on-its-feet blush of flavour with strawberry and red currant mingling with spice throughout. For perfect serving temperature, chill until the heat-sensitive snowflake emblem on the bottle turns blue! (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Family Estate Gamay 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (29112) 13.0% alcohol
Spice, dark toast with hints of tobacco on the nose, this delivers a tangy rush of lively flavour—cranberry, pomegranate and racy red currant. It’s light-medium weight, nicely textured and delivers a crisp refreshing aftertaste of spice-driven red berry fruit. It easily ratchets up a notch or two with comfort food—meat-laden pizza, spicy wings or a burger with the works… good value, too. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Family Estate ‘Sibling Rivalry – Pink’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (171033) 12.0% alcohol
It may be ‘Sibling Rivalry’ on the label, but there’s complete harmony in the bottle. The blend of Cabernet, Gamay and Syrah jumps from the glass with alluring aromas of fresh-picked strawberry and floral notes. The palate’s treated to a rush of refreshing berry fruit—strawberry and spice-infused red raspberry. It’s medium-bodied, generously textured and delivers a mouth-watering crisp finish. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Passo Doble’ 2009
Tupungato, Argentina $13.95 (620880) 13.5% alcohol
Masi produces good-value, great-tasting wine and this Malbec/Corvina blend delivers a nicely layered complex mouthful of juicy vibrant fruit—ripe red cherry, spice-infused red currant along with hints of fig. It’s medium weight and well textured with good depth of flavour. There’s good focus and deft balance throughout complemented by a lingering mouth-watering mulberry aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


McWilliams ‘Hanwood Estate’ Moscato Non vintage
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (2126960 6.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of exotic spice, red licorice and rose petals introduce this sweet-tasting field blend. A salad bowl of intense, sweet ripe tropical fruit flavour coats the palate and lingering aftertaste. This light-on-its-feet, low-alcohol white has great appeal as a well-chilled summertime sipper or paired with freshly picked and sliced strawberries or fruit salad. (Vic Harradine)


Passion of Argentina Malbec 2009
Argentina $11.55 (163188) 14.7% alcohol
This is a solid value-priced red with aromas of Asian spice, berry fruit and vanilla. Sweet, ripe dark berry fruit flavour dominates the palate supported by a silky smooth texture and fine-grained tannin underpinning. There’s substantial ripe berry fruit on the finish garnished with spice and hints of espresso roast. It’s a hi-octane easy-going sipper that pours well with spicy meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Pascual Toso ‘Limited Edition’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (162610) 14% alcohol
Certainly one of the stars in a line-up of mid-priced Malbecs—the price-quality balance tips well in your favour. It’s nicely structured delivering a huge mouthful of flavour with dense dark cherry, mulberry and kirsch liqueur to the fore. Medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, this silky-smooth charmer steps out smartly with spice and dark berry aromas and cleans up with a lingering, fruit-filled aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (64618) 12.3% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, graphite and mixed savory spice on the nose, the racy flavour rides a stream of crisp refreshing acidity. Red currant, sour cherry and hints of pomegranate wash over the palate replaying on the mouth-watering finish. This is truly showcased when poured with meat-laden spicy pizza or spaghetti Bolognaise. Available by the case ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Winery Gamay 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (89011) 13.5% alcohol
This premium family-owned Niagara winery is meticulous in handling their fruit and wine practicing eco-friendly sustainable agriculture. Fresh and lively aromas of red cherry and sandalwood abound. This Gamay was hand picked, hand sorted and fermented in small 1/2 tonne vats. Tangy and balanced flavours wash persistently over the palate and through the lip-smacking finish—juicy black cherry, racy red currant and spice. Slightly chill and sip on its own or pour with a mixed deli platter, burgers or pasta in spicy meat sauce. Available by the case ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64592) 13.5% alcohol
Spice-driven perfumed aromas of rosewater and musk presage a gorgeous mouthful of flavour—spiced and honeyed citrus, ripe pineapple and yellow plum. It’s medium weight with a generous mouth feel and an off-dry, sweet and tang aftertaste that’s versatile—perfect when chilled and sipped on its own as an aperitif or paired with spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. Available by the case ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89011) 13.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas are full of verve and excitement—lemon chiffon pie and dazzling tropical fruit notes. There’s good tension between the ripe fruit—citrus and tropical—and the tangy acidity. It sports a gorgeous mouth feel and brims with flavour layering on nervy lemon-lime and a delightful wave of grapefruit on the crisp, lip-smacking finish. The perfect summer sipper and more—it pairs well with pan-seared fish, prawns and scallops. Available by the case ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘AJ Lepp Vineyards’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $17.15 13.0% alcohol
Expressive on the nose with aromas of green apple, honeyed citrus and slate, the focused flavours of lemon-lime, Granny Smith apple and spice ride a lip-smacking stream of acidity throughout. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a crisp refreshing aftertaste of grapefruit and hints of peach. It’s paired perfectly with pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. Pick up at the winery or order on-line for home or office delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)


Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘Wismer Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $20.15 (116475) 13.5% alcohol
This is well defined and nicely focused—fashioned by one of Niagara’s young top-gun winemakers, Jamie Evans. Alluring aromas waft from this crisp refreshing gem with ripe citrus and peel marmalade to the fore. The racy ripe flavours of grapefruit, lemon-lime and pineapple are well balanced and enveloped in a silky smooth texture. The clean crisp aftertaste is lengthy and luxurious. A classy summer sipper to be sure, it also pours well with green salad topped with crumbled chèvre. Pick up at the winery or order on-line for home or office delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)


Southbrook ‘Connect - Organic’ Vidal 2010
VQA Ontario $14.95 9.6% alcohol
This is a drop-dead gorgeous glass of Vidal. Certified organic, this struts its stuff with eco-friendly, thoughtful viticulture and winemaking, from organically grown fruit to egg-white fining and Ontario-sourced lightweight glass bottles. Lime, mineral and pit fruit on the nose, there’s a lovely wash of tangy balanced flavour on the palate—lemon chiffon pie filling, ripe pineapple and citrus zest. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting a crisp refreshing aftertaste that melds sweet and tang to perfection. Pick up at the winery or order direct for home or office delivery from Southbrook at 1 888 581-1581. (Vic Harradine)


Southbrook ‘Connect - Organic’ Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 12.5% alcohol
Tasted this organic and partially bio-dynamic gem, appropriately, on ‘Earth Day’ and was bowled over by its charm and complexity. Aromas of strawberry tart, rhubarb pie and mixed herbs provide an alluring segue to a weighty mouthful of racy tangy flavour—ruby red grapefruit, pomegranate and sour cherry. It’s beautifully textured… almost muscular, and delivers a dry lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. 100% Cabernet Franc—it’s the best Rosé tasted in a long while and it’s versatile—serve chilled on its own or with roast chicken or mixed deli platter. Pick up at the winery or order direct for home or office delivery from Southbrook at 1 888 581-1581. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan