April 2, 2011 Vintages Release

California Wine Fair! It’s the hottest ticket in town – year after year. 100+ California wineries pouring 300+ wines with light hors d’oeuvres, all for one admission price! Many winery principals present. No tickets sold at door. Book yours now; the ‘SOLD OUT’ sign appears annually. 



Here are cities where you can attend – Toronto (April 4), Ottawa (April 6), Montreal (April 7), Québec City (April 8) and Halifax (May 12). 



To order tickets by mail or on-line visit California Wines in Canada. 



Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 


• Passover – begins April 19. The LCBO is releasing 110 kosher-for-Passover products. Read more…
• Williams and Humbert – this is a luscious dessert wine and one of the best bargains on the shelf. Just ask any LCBO Product Consultant: it’s an ‘in thing’ that most consumers walk by… pity. It’s the first wine in the main release and a screaming buy at $11.95
• Finding Waldo – There are three Italian reds at 4 ½ stars between $15 and $20.


This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from Burgundy, then a min-release on South African wine followed by the Main Release.

Burgundy Feature

Vincent Morin Lacombe Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2009
AOC Bourgogne $16.95 (208496) 12.5% alcohol
Red with a tinge of violet, this wine is fragrant with sweet red and black berry fruit, spice and an earthy undertone. Dry, medium bodied, sweet fruit and spice flavours wrapped in a silky texture entice, while fresh acidity and perceptible tannin ensure balance and consistency through the mid-length finish. An attractive value-laden wine, it’ll cellar medium term or is a good match now for beef tenderloin with tarragon mushroom sauce or roast pork with herbs and garlic. There’s an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Alain Geoffroy ‘Beauroy’ Chablis 1er Cru 2008
AOC Chablis $24.95 (733501) 13.0% alcohol
A brilliant pale yellow-green, this classic wine is fragrant with citrus and orchard fruit, displaying an underlying mineral note. Light-medium bodied, the fresh flavours of green apple, lemon zest and grapefruit ride a backbone of racy acidity. The flinty minerality persists on the crisp, lengthy, dry finish. A great match for seafood, it’ll cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Saint-Saturnin de Vergy Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc 2009
AOC Hautes Côtes de Nuits $18.95 (128686) 13.0% alcohol
Pale gold, this lovely Chardonnay has a subtle nose of ripe orchard fruit, citrus, mineral and lightly toasted nuts. It offers a silky texture and vibrant acidity matched with delicious citrus, apple and pear. Beautifully balanced, there’s a lingering note of light toast on the fresh fruity and dry finish. Match this medium-bodied chard to chicken roasted with lemon zest and tarragon or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Gille Côtes de Nuits-Villages 2008
AOC Côtes de Nuits $24.95 (210864) 13.0% alcohol
Pale ruby, this light-medium bodied Pinot Noir offers lovely aromas of cherry, spice, earth and a whiff of vanilla. It’s vibrant with lively acidity and flavour of fresh red fruit—cherry, raspberry, cranberry—the texture’s silky and the tangy fruit carries through the dry lengthy finish garnished with a soupçon of toast and sweet spice. A great match for fragrant chicken with mushrooms, it will cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Marchand-Grillot Morey-Saint-Denis 2008
AOC Morey-Saint-Denis $39.95 (210906) 13.0% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby, the subtle, delicate aromas of this wine include cherry fruit, earth, beetroot and floral notes. It’s light-medium weight and silky in texture; the refined palate offers delicate red fruit—cherry and cranberry—along with underlying notes of cinnamon toast framed by perceptible tannin and vibrant acidity. The lengthy dry finish emphasizes the earthiness and structure of the wine. Enjoy it with a range of roast meats or with wild mushroom risotto. Cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Roux Pére et Fils Côte de Beaune-Villages 2009
AOC Côte de Beaune $17.95 (208520) 13.0% alcohol
It opens with a pale-ruby hue and lovely aromas of earth, flowers, red fruit and cinnamon wafting from the glass of this dry, medium-bodied red. The lovely red cherry berry fruit is fresh on the palate, well balanced with vibrant acidity and well-integrated, barely perceptible tannin. It sports a lengthy finish. Enjoy this with grilled salmon or coq au vin. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Roux Père et Fils ‘Les Chaumes’ Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet $38.95 (208512) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this gem has lovely aromas of autumn fruit tart, pears, apples, sweet spice and lightly toasted almonds. An elegant and dry white, it’s creamy in texture and weighty on the palate. The orchard fruit replays with gentle citrus notes, a hint of cinnamon toast and a dash of white pepper. It’s all beautifully balanced with fresh acidity and well-integrated oak. Beautiful, refined, enjoy it now or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Gueugnon-Remond ‘Grande Réserve’ Mâcon-Charnay 2008
AOC Mâcon-Charnay-les-Mâcon $16.95 (220889) 13.0% alcohol
An award-winning wine, this golden Chardonnay was aged 12 months on the lees in oak. The aromas are subtle—orchard fruit, a trace of sweet citrus and wisps of toast. The spine of crisp citrus acidity complements orchard fruit and notes of brioche. Displaying a lovely balance and intensity of flavour, this dry wine is good value. Medium weight and creamy, enjoy with grilled chicken or seafood in creamy lemon sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa Feature

Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2008
WO Swartland $16.95 (225458) 14.5% alcohol
This golden blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier displays lifted aromas of tropical and orchard fruit and sweet toasty notes. It has a smooth creamy full-bodied texture, fresh acidity and loads of rich ripe fruit—pear, Mac apple and pineapple—with a dash of spice and some lasting toasty notes on the warm and tangy dry finish. Mouth filling and satisfying, give it a whirl with herbed roast pork. (Susan Desjardins)


Bellingham Dragon’s Lair 2006
WO Coastal Region $19.95 (68692) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Viognier, this dry, medium-full bodied wine offers attractive aromas of red and black berries, smoky toast and a suggestion of earthiness. The texture’s smooth, while fine acidity and soft tannin support ripe berry fruit—black berry, raspberry and black cherry. Notes of toast and spiced vanilla adorn the mid-length finish. It’s very approachable and lip-smacking tasty. (Susan Desjardins)


Ernie Els ‘Big Easy’ 2008
WO Western Cape $19.95 (220038) 15.0% alcohol
This deep purple blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier is fruit forward and appealing quaffable. Loaded with aromas and flavours of juicy dark berry fruit, spice and toast, it’s dry, medium-full bodied with an easy-going soft texture. Notes of spice box and espresso roast linger on the warm mouth-filling finish. Enjoy with your favorite barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Williams & Humbert Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown Oloroso 

Jerez, Spain $11.95 (437467) 

What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (VH)

Fortified Wine: Port

Fonseca ‘Bin 27 Fine Reserve’ Port Non-vintage

DOC Porto $15.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol

Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Niepoort Ruby Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (196626) 20.0% alcohol
Deep ruby, as the name would suggest, the aromas gush from the glass—melted dark chocolate, dried fruit, dark berries and fragrant spice box. On the palate, dry, warm, full bodied and concentrated, offering intense flavours of plum fruit, sweet dried and black berries. Impactful and nicely balanced, with a rich smooth texture, tantalizing hints of sweet toffee and ripe fruit persist on the finish. Go for the gusto—serve it with a chocolate pecan tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut 

New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol 

Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (105387) 12.0% alcohol
Straw with a green tinge, this delightful medium-bodied wine is rich, ripe and sweetly fruity. Stone fruit and pear aromas predominate on the nose. Lively acidity accents the bright fresh flavours of peach, green apple and lemon-lime. Engaging and tasty with a lasting invigorating finish, it will delight on its own or paired with wine-poached trout or white fish. (Susan Desjardins)


Pelee Island Winery ‘Vendange Tardive’ Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Pelee Island $16.95 (224196) 13.0% alcohol
Golden, with a hint of peach skin, there’s greater intensity of flavour and weight on the palate due to the extra hang time the fruit received. Richly aromatic and intriguing—think luscious honeyed stone fruit, a hint of the tropics and of nuts—the wine is medium bodied with a silky, round texture and fine balancing acidity. Spicy orchard fruit and notes of marzipan and nougat linger on the full-flavoured finish. It gets an extra half star for value. Enjoy it with aged Ontario cheddar. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Henry of Pelham Gamay 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (291112) 13.0% alcohol
Pale ruby in tone, this signature grape of Ontario offers a complex nose of red and black fruit, underbrush and a spicy nuance. Dry, silky and medium-bodied, it’s lively and savoury on the palate, displaying fresh red fruit—cherry and raspberry—along with a replay of spice and underlying earthiness that persists through the finish. Well-crafted, there’s a nice balance of bright fruit, vibrant acidity and ripe tannins. Good value, enjoy it with grilled vegetables over baked polenta, or sip with paté and crusty French loaf. (Susan Desjardins)


Malivoire Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (239814) 12.5% alcohol
Well-crafted and beautifully balanced, this semi-transparent garnet gem entices with aromas of earth, beetroot, cherry and spice. With a fine silky texture, there’s an elegant balance of fine tannin, lively acidity and bright red fruit—raspberry, pie cherry and cranberry—with notes of earth and spice persisting on the lengthy mouthwatering dry finish. Medium weight, enjoy it with grilled salmon or pork with red wine sauce. Cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

USA – Red

Blackstone ‘Winemaker’s Select’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
California $15.95 (714816) 13.5% alcohol
A straightforward and appealing red, this Cabernet offers quite intense aromas of cassis, vanilla, spice and some herbal notes. The texture is smooth, the tannins ripe and the acidity fresh. The palate is dense and intense with dark fruit, the spice and vanilla replaying. The mid-length, dry finish and medium-full weight display attractive toasty notes from well-integrated oak. Easy-drinking and crowd-pleasing, stock up for the start of barbeque season. (Susan Desjardins)


Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Zinfandel 2009
California $17.95 (719211) 15.0% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a dry, full-bodied wine with expressive aromas of berry fruit, spice box, vanilla and mocha. The fruit flavours are concentrated on the palate, nicely balanced with ripe tannin and appropriate acidity, spicy peppery overtones tantalizing. Attractive notes of toast and dark chocolate characterize the lasting warm finish. A great wine to enjoy around the barbeque. (Susan Desjardins)


Fog Head ‘Highland Series Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2008
Monterey $19.95 (212944) 13.5% alcohol
This ruby-toned wine is very appealing and mouth filling. Dry medium bodied, the nose offers enticingly earthy spicy overtones to ripe red berry fruit. There’s lots of oomph on the palate, ripe red fruits—raspberry and cherry—are matched with fresh acidity and soft tannin. Sweetly spicy and toasty on the full-flavoured finish, this is a very good value. Savor with artisanal Oka cheese. (Susan Desjardins)


Paul Hobbs ‘Crossbarn’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $34.95 (118695) 14.8% alcohol
A wine of substance, you see this in the depth of color and in the complexity of aromas—dark berry, pit fruit, cedar, vanilla. Powerful and structured, there’s warmth and depth on the palate with layers of flavour and an attractive balance of fruit and acidity. Lovely notes of espresso roast linger on the lengthy finish of this dry, full bodied and intensely flavourful wine. The tannins are grippy, enjoy with rare-grilled meats or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina – White

St. Lucas Torrontés 2010
Mendoza $11.95 (694513) 13.5% alcohol
Pale yellow-green, this wine has some airy floral and stone fruit aromas garnished with a dash of lemon-lime. Light-medium in weight, there’s some bracing acidity underlying stone fruit and citrus flavours. It’s refreshing and crisp with a lengthy dry, lively finish. Serve well chilled with appetizers or grilled white fish or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina – Red

Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $14.95 (143248) 14.5% alcohol
Depth of color, aroma and flavour characterize this wine. The aromas are rich, ripe, dark fruit—black currant, blueberry pie—cassis, vanilla and cedar. It’s flavourful and smooth, the tannins ripe, the acidity fine with a dry aftertaste and medium-full weight. The intense dark fruit replays, dark toast chocolate and spice notes combining in a warm savoury finish. If you enjoy a tasty wine with your grilled red meat, choose this fine specimen, which earns an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

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Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $19.95 (79798) 14.0% alcohol
An opaque purple, this is a fruit-forward wine. On the nose, there are deep aromas of ripe dark fruit and sweet spice, while the palate is loaded with lovely flavours of black fruit—blueberry, blackberry and black cherry—sweet spice and notes of dark toast replaying. Full bodied, well-structured and consistent throughout, it ends with a rousing note of espresso roast underlying the ripe dark fruit and dry finish. Bring on the barbie! (Susan Desjardins)

Chile – White

Arboleda Chardonnay 2008
Eduardo Chadwick, Casablanca Valley $15.95 (606772) 14.0% alcohol
Nicely concentrated and consistently flavourful throughout, this rich dry and medium-full bodied golden gem offers lovely aromas of toasty spicy oak, orchard fruit and notes of tropical fruit. The texture is creamy and a nice seam of acidity balances the toasty oak and the intense rich fruit—pear, caramel apple and pineapple—that persist through the warm weighty finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile – Red



Errázuriz ‘Single Vineyard’ Syrah 2008
Don Maximiano Estate ‘Panquehue’ $19.95 (211938) 14.5% alcohol
Deep purple and intensely aromatic, this wine offers dark fruit, spice, vanilla and earthy nuances. It’s fruit forward, rich with dark plum, blackberry and black cherry, lifted by notes of exotic spice and white pepper. Perceptible tannin and fine acidity are well matched to the rich fruit and medium-full weight. Attractive notes of cocoa and dark toast persist on the dry finish. This is another good choice for barbequed meats, now or over the next 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia – Red

Alkoomi ‘Black Label’ Shiraz/Viognier 2008
Frankland River $19.95 (203166) 13.8% alcohol
Aged 18 months in French oak, this deep violet blend is wonderfully aromatic with eucalyptus, spicy floral tones, dark berries and toasty vanilla. The plush berry flavours—blueberry and black cherry to the fore—are framed with firm tannin and fresh acidity. The notes of mint, vanilla and dark spicy oak recur on the palate and persist on the smooth, flavourful finish. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s deftly crafted and well integrated; this is a value-laden wine that will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa – Red

The Winery of Good Hope ‘Black Rock Red’ 2007
WO Swartland $18.95 (68502) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of (primarily) Shiraz, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvédre and Viognier is a lovely violet shade displaying attractive aromas of ripe dark berry fruit and plum with spice and herbs. Soft acidity and ripe tannin are matched with depth of dark fruit flavor, exotic spice and dark toast. Very approachable and smooth in texture with a dry aftertaste and medium-full weight, the lengthy finish highlights the rich flavourful fruit. Enjoy it now with full-flavored barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine



Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2006 

AOC Saint-Émilion $19.95 (979955) 12.5% alcohol 

Approachable now, this delivers a warm, round mouthful of succulent fruit, moderate, sweet tannin and a fruit-forward aftertaste. Aromas of dark plum jam, succulent black, juicy Bing cherry and spice are replayed on the palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length fruity finish. Easy sipping on its own, it pours well with spicy, smoked and barbecued ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

San Felice ‘Perolla’ Vermentino 2009
IGT Maremma $15.95 (222802) 13.0% alcohol
This is straw hued with a green note. Blended with 15% Sauvignon Blanc, the aromas are refreshingly pungent—fresh citrus, grass with a green vegetal nuance. There’s vibrant acidity and fresh citrus with a hint of green pepper along with a dry aftertaste. Silky, crisp and refreshing, this is a light-medium bodied white to enjoy chilled with seafood or pasta primavera. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Barba ‘Vignafranca’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $17.95 (203984) 13.5% alcohol
A deep ruby colour, this medium-bodied, silky-textured red entices with aromas of earth, cherry berry fruit and spicy floral notes. The fresh red fruit—cherry and raspberry—sits on a firm frame, enlivened with fine acidity and delightful notes of spice and toasty oak. The wine finishes long and dry, notes of dark chocolate lingering. An intense tasting experience, it garners an extra half star as excellent value. Cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Umani Ronchi ‘San Lorenzo’ Rosso Conero 2007
DOC Montepulciano $15.95 (981191) 14.0% alcohol
Medium bodied and structured, this wine is inky in the glass and fragrant with ripe fruit, floral, licorice and soft toast aromas. Fresh acidity and perceptible tannins are matched to full-flavoured cherry berry fruit and undertones of herb and spice. Notes of cocoa and light toast persist on the lengthy dry finish. Good value, enjoy it now with full-flavoured meat casseroles or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)


Rivera ‘Cappellaccio Riserva’ Aglianico 2005
DOC Castel del Monte $18.95 (984120) 13.5% alcohol
A deep jeweled ruby tone, this well-crafted gem is produced from one of Italy’s lesser known noble varietals, aged 12 months in French oak and a further 12 in bottle. Perfumed with spicy floral and herbal aromas, ripe plum, berry fruit and earthy tones, this medium-full bodied red is robust and well structured. The succulent berry fruit is matched with fresh acidity and firm tannin that underline the lengthy dry finish. Rare meats are in order, or cellar long term, as there’s lots of life here. Terrific value, it richly deserves its final half star. (Susan Desjardins)


Rocca delle Macìe Chianti ‘Riserva’ 2006 

DOCG Chianti $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol 

Principally Sangiovese with a dash of Cabernet and Merlot, the wine was aged 24 months in large barrels and is another great value from a well-established producer. Deep and opaque in appearance, intense aromas of lush, dark fruit, chocolate, leather and toast waft from the glass. It’s mid weight with luxurious berry pie fruit, spice and pepper. It’s balanced with supple tannin and fine acidity. The finish is lengthy, dry and fruity. At this price, you should spring for a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)


Tommasi ‘Arele’ Appassimento 2008
IGT Veronese $17.95 (224188) 13.0% alcohol
This deep ruby blend of Corvina and Oseleta is produced from partially dried grapes. It’s rich and full bodied with aromas of sweet dried cherries, blueberry, sweet herbs and spice. The concentrated flavours are balanced with lively acidity, a dry aftertaste and ripe tannin. Quite intense flavours of red and black fruit, notes of dried berries and sweet spice sweep across the palate, carrying through the mouth-filling refreshing finish. It’s a captivating wine that’s a good match with meat-based pasta or barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain – Red

Olivares ‘Altos de la Hoya’ Monastrell 2008
DO Jumilla $13.95 (163154) 14.0% alcohol
From a region known for its ancient bush vines, intense heat and drying winds, comes this well-structured ruby-toned red produced from fruit grown in cooler, high-altitude vineyards. It proffers complexity on the nose—fresh cherry berry aromas, hints of exotic spice and smoky toast. Medium bodied, with some drying tannins, it’s quite intense on the palate and rich with ripe berry flavours—raspberry and blackberry predominate—as well as notes of toasty oak, spice and black pepper. Consistent and flavourful throughout, there’s a dry slightly tannic pull on the finish. Easy on the budget, the price-quality ratio is in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz Non-vintage
South Eastern Australia $16.95 (212472) 13.0% alcohol
A real charmer, this sparkler is bright and lively in texture with lovely aromas of sweet dark fruit and a whiff of cinnamon toffee. Dry and medium bodied, the violet mousse is subtle on the palate and the dark fruit replays—dried cherry, raspberry and blackberry— garnished with some toasty, chocolaty notes. Hints of spice and cocoa linger on the very berry finish. Flavourful and fun, this is a great wine to enjoy by the barbeque on a warm summer day! (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan