March 5, 2011 Vintages Release


California Wine Fair! It’s the hottest ticket in town – year after year. 100+ California wineries pouring 300+ wines with light hors d’oeuvres, all for one admission price! Many winery principals present. No tickets sold at door. Book yours now; the ‘SOLD OUT’ sign appears annually. 



Beginning March 8, 2011 in Edmonton, the fair tours eight Canadian cities – Edmonton (March 8), Calgary (March 9), Vancouver (March 11), Toronto (April 4), Ottawa (April 6), Montreal (April 7), Québec City (April 8) and Halifax (May 12). 



To order tickets by mail or on-line visit California Wines in Canada. 



Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 


• A New Feature – You’ll notice within each review the product code (numbers in brackets) are now links connecting you directly to the LCBO site allowing you to search for stock that’s currently available in individual retail LCBO stores
• Finding Waldo – a dazzling, special-occasion Italian red by Giuseppe Quintarelli a.k.a. ‘The Master of the Veneto’ is uncovered by Susan.
• Charles Baker – uncorks a stunning 5-star Riesling from the Picone Vineyard in Niagara—it’s single vineyard, limited production, fairly priced and reviewed as ‘bracing, balanced ambrosia’.
• Beringer – offers this gorgeous, flavour-packed and well-balanced, California Zin that’s just come into it’s own for under $20. Not to be missed.
• Cono Sur – sparkles with a new offering that’s balanced and bubbly at a bloody good price—$13.95! It’s the final wine in the newsletter.



This winecurrent newsletter begins with two features from the Vintages Release catalogue, the first on wines from Argentina/Chile, the second on wines from Northern Italy followed by the Main Release.

Argentina/Chile Feature

Malma ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Neuquén $15.95 (222158) 14.5% alcohol
This is inky purple with intense aromas of sun-ripened fruit, tantalizing notes of charry toast and spice. The concentrated fruit carries through the dry and medium-full-bodied palate garnished with aromatic notes of pepper and spice. Ripe tannin and appropriate acidity ensure a nice balance through the lengthy finish where charry toast and a wisp of dark chocolate linger. It’s a great wine to match with your favourite, barbequed meat. (Susan Desjardins)


Bodegas Callia ‘Magna’ Shiraz 2008
Tulum Valley $15.95 (218818) 14.0% alcohol
This is a dense, powerfully flavourful red that captivates with aromas of dark fruit, licorice and sweet spice. Warm and peppery on the palate, it’s awash with ripe, spicy berry fruit—blackberry and cassis to the fore—carried on a framework of firm tannin balanced with fresh acidity. Well crafted, it offers attractive notes of dark toast on a lengthy finish. It’ll cellar for a few years, but you’ll probably want to enjoy it now. There’s an extra half star here for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Valle Perdido ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006
Neuqeuén $19.95 (222760) 14.0% alcohol
A dense, ruby colour, this red has tangy, floral, berry fruit and smoky, earthy aromas. Dry and medium bodied, the tannin and acidity are soft, balancing the ripe black berry and cherry fruit. Overtones of smoked meat, earth and char carry through on the dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Northern Italy Feature

Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio 2009
Südtirol, DOC Alto Adige $18.95 (681429) 13.0% alcohol
From a member of the reputed Grandi Marchi, this is a delightful wine that proffers a bouquet of lightly spiced flowers and a basket of orchard fruit. A backbone of vibrant acidity carries the tasty flavours of sweet stone and tree fruit through a scrumptious, finely balanced finish. Enjoy it now with pan-fried sole or warm, grilled chicken salad. (Susan Desjardins)


Pisoni Teroldego 2008
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti $14.95 (209353) 13.0% alcohol
For something a bit different, try this semi-transparent, ruby gem that’s loaded with bright berry fruit, spice and herbs. Dry and mid weight, the flavourful fruit—raspberry and blackberry to the fore—is balanced with well-integrated tannin and fresh acidity. This is an approachable, easy-drinking red with good structure and a lasting, fruity, lightly toasty aftertaste. Enjoy it with your choice of tomato-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)


Santa Cristina ‘Massoni’ Lugana 2009
DOC Lugana $17.95 (200097) 13.0% alcohol
A polished wine, this Trebbiano di Soave offers fragrant aromas—floral, soft citrus and orchard fruit. Sweet and fruity, it’s light-medium bodied with a soft, smooth texture. Subtle flavours of pear, peach and tangerine flow across the palate on a fine seam of soft acidity with a tangy citrusy note defining the mid-length finish. It’s a fine match for vegetable risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Liqueur

St-Germain ‘Delice de Sureau’ Liqueur Artisanale 

France $49.95 (180695) 20.0% alcohol 

If your desire is to inspire and captivate, then this elderflower liqueur was crafted for you! First up, the bottle’s in an Art Deco style. Then there’s the process required to transform these ephemeral spring flowers into this exotic liqueur. Open, pour, and the aromas fairly leap from the glass—stone fruit, honeyed melon, expressive white floral notes and a hint of anise. It’s decadent, richly textured with aromas replaying on the palate augmented with a whiff of tinned apricots. All that rich flavour and texture is lovingly balanced with fine acidity. The warm finish is luscious and long lasting. Perfection on its own, but destined for martinis. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Port

Quinta do Castelinho Ruby Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (198945) 19.0% alcohol
There are heady aromas and flavours wafting from this value-laden beauty—black berry fruit, dried fruit, floral notes and sweet cedar. Well structured, the intense, jammy black fruit mingles with energetic, peppery, exotic spice notes. It’s mid weight and the dry finish is rich and flavourful with lingering nuances of toast and chocolate-coated caramel. Delicious on its own, it’s also well matched with chocolate-almond bark. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Jansz ‘Premium Cuvée’ Non-Vintage 

Tasmania, Australia $29.95 (566828) 12.5% alcohol 

Pale yellow in the glass, the aromas are redolent of lemon grass and citrus. The blend of 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir dances lightly on the palate delivering delicate and well-defined flavours of racy lemon biscuit, toasted nuts and white grapefruit zest carried along on a lovely stream of fine-bead perlage. A perfect aperitif, it also matches up well to lighter-styled appetizers like cold prawns or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.95 (302059) 13.0% alcohol
Pale gold with green-hued reflections, this displays lovely aromas—orchard fruit, lychee and rosewater. Off dry, light-medium bodied and spicy from the first sip, the fruit aromas replay on the palate with racy acidity ensuring a tangy and refreshing, fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Charles Baker ‘Stratus – Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2008 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.00 10.5% alcohol 

Highly perfumed aromas of diesel, slate and lemon zest dance from the glass of this dazzling expression of Riesling at its finest. The third vintage tasted—all 5 stars—and this the best to date; it showcases a slightly oily texture with a persistent wash of focused, racy citrus and kiwi fruit along with streaks of mineral. The tension, nerve and verve on the palate are palpable, delivering a mouth-watering shower and lip-smacking, lingering finish of bracing, balanced ambrosia. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Nyarai Cellars ‘Veritas’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $ 24.95 (222794) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this ruby gem offers complexity and harmony. Fruity on the nose and palate, there are aromatic nuances of cedar, red licorice and a spicy floral note. These all replay on the palate along with nuances of herb and toast. Mid weight with well integrated tannin and fine acidity, it offers lovely balance and an intensely flavourful finish that’s redolent of ripe fruit, sweet spice and cocoa. Approachable and enjoyable now, it’ll cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Ridgepoint Wines ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.00 (89003) 13.5% alcohol
Transparent garnet in the glass, expect aromas of bright berry fruit, spice box and mineral. On the palate, the tantalizing fruit is ripe and red—cherries, strawberries, currants—coupled with savoury notes. Dry and light-medium bodied, the wine is balanced, approachable and flavourful, with fresh acidity and soft tannin well integrated with the ripe fruit. Consistent from start to finish, it has a long aftertaste. Enjoy now with duck confit or cellar 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Rodney Strong ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007 

Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $34.95 (210039) 13.5% alcohol 

Rich, aromatic and absolutely creamy smooth, this is worth every penny. Alluring aromas abound with sweet vanilla, tropical fruit and toasty notes among them. Layered waves of flavour caress the palate with butterscotch, pear, pineapple and fig to the fore. It’s medium-full weight, smooth and satin and brimming with balanced, fruit flavour on the long, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Beringer ‘Clear Lake’ Zinfandel 2006 

Clear Lake, Lake County $19.95 (953596) 14.5% alcohol 

Dark, rich and succulent this is well-priced for patient Zin-lovers, reaching its zenith 2011 to 2014—it’ll also jump up a notch in the rating. Mid weight and fairly textured, this delivers aromas and flavours of boysenberry jam, spice-infused bramble berry and juicy succulent black cherry. It finishes particularly well balanced with sweet cherry clafoutie flavour and lip-smacking acidity for balance. It’s wrapped in a firm tannin structure for now. (Vic Harradine)


La Crema Pinot Noir 2008 

Sonoma Coast $29.95 (719435) 14.0% alcohol 

Lovely aromas of ripe field berries and cherries waft from the glass of this semi-transparent ruby wine. It has rich ripe spicy fruit flavours, soft texture, fine acidity and gentle tannin. Balanced and harmonious, it has an extended finish. A very appealing wine, it’s well served with roast duck and spaetzle. (Susan Desjardins)


MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2007 

Sonoma Coast $19.95 (048207) 13.5% alcohol 

Expressive aromas of savoury spice and earthiness blow off the glass of this light-on-its-feet, nicely textured Pinot. This is well paced with just enough resolved tannin for structure. Look for red cherry and spiced field berry on the palate with more of the same on the lengthy finish. This is paired well with marinated and grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)


Simi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Alexander Valley, California $21.95 (25221) 13.5% alcohol 

This has good impact on the nose and palate opening with aromas of floral and dark fruit mingling with notes of toast and vanilla. Dense in colour and meaty with black fruit to the fore—sun-ripened blackberry and jammy cassis—spice, pepper and cocoa add complexity. Dry, full bodied, with a firm structure, there’s just the right balance of fruit and acidity. The extended finish is fruit filled and tantalizing with lingering notes of pepper and toast. Well matched with filet mignon and roasted root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Maipo Valley $15.00 (684597) 14.0% alcohol
This inky red was aged 12 months in French oak, now displaying attractive aromas of mint, cassis and vanilla. Dry and full bodied, it has good texture, ripe tannin and a replay of the concentrated fruit on the palate. Notes of pepper and exotic wood persist on the fruity finish. An enjoyable wine that gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Elderton ‘Friends Vineyard Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Barossa $17.95 (595389) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a whiff of minty eucalyptus followed by lovely, sweet berry fruit and a spicy floral note on the nose. Medium-full bodied, the fruity acidity and soft tannin are in agreeable balance with the concentrated, sweet fruit. That minty note replays along with spice and a warm, peppery undertone carrying through the dry finish. A delightful wine that gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Pillar Box ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2008
Padthaway $19.95 (90324) 15.0% alcohol
Aged in French and American oak, this is a deeply hued and flavourful red offering attractive aromas of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, spice, toast and elusive floral notes. The ample, dark and dense fruit is predominant with notes of spice, licorice and mocha adding intricacy. Dry, full bodied and supple, there’s balance throughout with dark chocolate and tangy pepper adding punch to the aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Astrolabe ‘Voyage’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (010421) 13.5% alcohol 

Hard to imagine a bigger, more powerful and pungent Sauvignon Blanc—perhaps this in a magnum? Grassy and herbaceous aromas rip from the glass as they segue a rip-roaring tsunami wave of gooseberry, lemongrass and herbaceous citrus notes. It’s medium full bodied with a huge mouth feel and a racy lingering finish that’s crisp and mouth-watering racy. Rated ‘R’, this is for grown-ups only. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough $21.95 (203752) 14.5% alcohol
Vibrant and mouthwateringly fresh, this semi-transparent, ruby gem is fragrant with lively red cherry/berry fruit, mineral and herbal notes. Dry and energetic on the palate, it has a crisp texture with a replay of that succulent, bright, red fruit. The nuances of sweet spice and herbs persist on the refreshing, lingering finish. Grilled salmon is in order. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Willy Gisselbrecht ‘Tradition’ Pinot Gris 2008
AOC Alsace $16.95 (641597) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lovely, subtle Gris with attractive aromas of honeysuckle and ripe, orchard fruit. Off dry and medium bodied, there’s a soft, spicy note with focused, orchard fruit flavours flowing on a spine of gentle, citrusy acidity. It’s an absolutely delightful wine with a soft, sweet, fruity finish. Enjoy it with roast pork tenderloin with an apricot glaze. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de la Greffière Mâcon la Roche Vineuse 2009
AOC Mâcon la Roche Vineuse $14.95 (205898) 13.0% alcohol
Pale-gold in the glass, the rich aromas of orchard fruit and citrus predominate with subtle, mineral notes tantalizing. Dry, balanced and creamy in texture, the aromas replay on the refreshing palate. The underlying minerality offers additional complexity. This is a very attractive, value-laden, approachable gem that’s a great match for herbed roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Ducla 2008 

AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $14.95 (162461) 12.0% alcohol 

Quiet and subtle on the nose—spice and black currant—this is silky smooth and ready to drink offering dark berry, racy cranberry, savoury herb and cherry/berry flavour on the mid-weight, nicely textured palate. The aftertaste is mid length and well balanced. Sipping nicely on its own, it also pours well with roast, stuffed chicken and pork. (Vic Harradine)


Château Haut-Cantiroy 2008
AOC Graves $17.95 (205559) 12.5% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby, this intriguing, award-winning, medium-bodied blend is dry and vibrant with complex aromas of herbs, ripe, berry fruit and a smoky, earthy quality. Bright berry fruit—raspberry and blackberry—sweet spice and a slightly peppery note are balanced with fresh acidity and supple tannin. An elusive, iron-like mineral note hovers beneath the bright, fresh fruit on the lingering aftertaste. Good value—enjoy now with roast lamb or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine de Matabrune Bourgueil 2009
AOC Bourgueil $14.95 (196865) 13.0% alcohol
Displaying a purple hue, this Cabernet Franc offers attractive, fresh berry, spicy floral and earthy, autumnal aromas. Dry and mid weight, the focused, dark fruit flavours are nicely balanced with perceptible tannin and lively acidity. There are lovely nuances of roasted red pepper, ground pepper and herbs that persist on the finish. This offers good value. Meat-stuffed peppers seem the obvious choice. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine de la Colline Saint-Jean ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Vacqueyras 2007 

AOC Vacqueyras $23.95 (155499) 14.5% alcohol 

This opulent blend of Grenache and Syrah is produced from ancient vines and is unoaked. It’s dense and dark with warm earthy aromas of mint, dark berries and plums. Full bodied, it has a firm structure with chewy tannins and moderate acidity. Rich dark fruit flavours are underlain with earthy, spicy, char notes. It has a rich, persistent mouth-filling finish. Serve it with pepper-crusted rib eye or cellar for 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine des Mascarons Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (142174) 15.0% alcohol
This value-packed blend of Grenache and Syrah displays attractive aromas of sweet, berry fruit, spiced vanilla and earthy notes. On the palate, it’s dry and medium bodied with fresh, vibrant, fruit—raspberry, blackberry—nicely balanced with equally fresh acidity and ripe tannin. Persistent earthiness and spicy, toasty notes add complexity. There’s some peppery warmth on the finish as well as notes of dark toast and a trace of dark chocolate. This is excellent value and is well matched with pepper steak. (Susan Desjardins)


Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2009
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (143099) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Syrah and Grenache, from an always reliable producer, is an intensely flavourful red that doesn’t overwhelm the palate. Expect aromas of bright, sweet, berry fruit, hints of red licorice, earth and herbes de Provence. The bright fruit on the palate—raspberry, black berry and strawberry pie—nestle with notes of herbs and earth. This mid-weight, well-crafted blend balances concentrated fruitiness, fresh acidity and well-integrated tannins. The fresh texture persists through the dry finish where notes of mocha and ripe fruit linger. There’s excellent value here. (Susan Desjardins)


Perrin & Fils ‘Les Sinards’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 

AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $19.95 (005975) 375 mL 14.5% alcohol 

Predominantly Grenache, as is the entire C-d-P appellation, this is an expressive, structured wine expressing the earthy, sweet dark fruit and spicy flavours commonly found in well-made reds from here. The nose of sweet ripe fruit and spice provides segue to balanced flavours on the palate with succulent, almost jammy, black currant and spice-infused black plum framed by moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe fine-grained tannin. It finishes in a blaze of glory with a lingering aftertaste of dark chocolate, black licorice, hints of earthiness and dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Caruso & Minimi ‘Timpune Grillo’ 2009
IGT Sicilia $13.95 (203943) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this is richly aromatic on the nose and palate; it’s rife with floral notes, stone fruit and a whiff of the tropics. Appealing, smooth and silky in texture, the wine is fresh and fruity—peach and pear dominate the fruit basket—with a fine backbone of acidity. Dry, light-medium bodied and nicely balanced, there’s a vibrant, refreshing finish. Enjoy with wine-poached trout. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Tenuta la Meridiana ‘Vitis’ Barbera d’Asti 2007
DOC Barbera d’Asti $14.95 (188003) 13.0% alcohol
Quality and value meld in this semi-transparent, ruby Barbera. The aromas are vivid—almost-candied—red fruit, sweet spice and a nuance of minerality. Satin smooth on the palate, there’s a lively backbone of acidity, a replay of bright red fruit—raspberry, cherry and currant—and a sweet, spicy note. Dry, medium bodied and refreshing, it’s loaded with juicy fruit right through the finish. Enjoy it with a vegetarian dish or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Lornano Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (208447) 13.5% alcohol
A deep ruby, this offers luscious berry fruit, a hint of dried fruit and some earthy, spicy floral nuances. Dry, medium bodied and nicely structured, the tannin’s slightly chalky while the fresh tangy acidity is a perfect complement to the deep, ripe red fruit. Pepper, earthy notes and a whisper of toast linger on the aftertaste. A classic Chianti and a fine match for oven-baked veal with tomato and mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)


Terre di Rubinoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $17.95 (206862) 13.5% alcohol
Fragrant aromas abound with vivid, red berry fruit, hints of spice and cedar and leather adding to the complexity. Dry, medium bodied and silky in texture, it offers the harmony of fine tannin, fruity acidity, tangy berry fruit—raspberry blueberry pie comes to mind—and subtle spiciness. The deft balance, refreshing texture and lip-smacking finish draw you back for just another sip. An excellent value that will cellar mid term – don’t pass it up. (Susan Desjardins)


Quintarelli ‘Primofiore’ 2006
IGT Veneto $59.95 (20867) 13.5% alcohol
A Corvina blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this red gem had a touch of Amarone added prior to oak aging. Almost opaque with a deep mahogany tone, complexity and depth reign with aromas and flavours of raisined fruit, black cherry, licorice and smoky spice galore. Dry, yet sweet with extracted fruit, it’s generous and plush on the palate. There’s lovely integration of the sun-ripened fruit, supple tannin and a juicy, fresh texture. Intense and approachable, it will also cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas Lan Crianza 2006
DOCa Rioja $15.00 (1566538) 13.5% alcohol
A brilliant ruby, this Tempranillo proffers complex aromas of ripe berry fruit, toast, cedar, spice and leather. It’s finely textured and harmonious on the palate with raspberry and blackberry fruit mingling with exotic spices, pliant tannin and lively acidity. Notes of pepper and spice garnish the vibrant, fruity finish. This is good value and bursting with flavour. (Susan Desjardins)


La Cova dels Vins Ombra 2006 

DO Montsant $16.95 (132589) 14.0% alcohol 

Opaque and dense, this is a very attractive blend of Garnacha, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon with wonderful perfumed aromas of well-ripened red and black fruits and a hint of warm sweet spice. On the palate, it’s ripe and juicy with supple tannins and a friendly level of fruity acidity. It’s medium-full bodied with concentrated red berry flavours and a persistent finish that replays raspberry, spice and pepper notes. Good to go with paella! (Susan Desjardins)

New in ‘Fellow Travelers’

Vic tasted the following two wines while in the US. These reviews are for fellow travelers and perhaps the folks from LCBO Vintages will taste and order for a future Vintages release.


Byron Chardonnay 2009
Santa Barbara County, California $21.95 13.5% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of honeyed tropical fruit, rich butterscotch and a wisp of minerality provide segue to deftly balanced flavours of tangy citrus along with ripe pear, peach and apple. It’s mid weight, generously textured and boasts a lingering, delectable aftertaste with a gentle hint of oak. It offers good value and pours well with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)


Byron Pinot Noir 2009
Santa Barbara County, California $22.95 13.5% alcohol
This opens with ripe, dark cherry/berry aromas galore mingling with mixed spice and smoky notes. Lush flavours coat the palate with black currant and plum compote to the fore. Well balanced, medium bodied with a plush mouth feel, it sports a lengthy, fruit-laden finish adorned by excellent, lip-smacking raciness. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Cono Sur Sparkling ‘Brut’ Non Vintage
Bio-Bio Valley $13.95 (215079) 12.0% alcohol
Cono Sur always delivers quality and value; this is no exception. Frothy in the glass, this is a tasty, easy-going blend—Chardonnay with a dash of Riesling and Pinot Noir. There are lovely orchard fruit and citrus aromas with a whiff of floral and yeasty notes. The enticing sweet fruit flavour is buoyed up by a crisp, fresh texture, underlying minerality and the whisper of bubbles. There’s good balance of acidity and fruitiness—like biting into a juicy Mac apple. It finishes lively and refreshing. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan