January 8, 2011 Vintages Release

Susan Desjardins tasted the Vintages Release for this newsletter and accomplished the Herculean task of attending the tasting all day Wednesday, January 5 and delivering tasting notes this quickly! Vic’s out of the country contributing wines tasted previous to leaving and while away. 

The feature in the Vintages Release catalogue and focus of this newsletter is on wines delivering good to great value, not just in the Smart Buys feature but throughout the entire release. There are good value reds and whites at every price point, but you’ll find the vast majority priced well under the $20 mark.



Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• New in Vintages – There’s a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand to be found in this section immediately following the Main Release.
• New in Ontario Wineries – check out fabulous reds and whites in this section, immediately following the wines above.
• What’s new? – Private Order wines are a great way to snag wines you generally only read about; this section wraps up the newsletter.

Smart Buys Feature

13th Street ‘White Palette’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (207340) 12.5% alcohol
High-toned aromatics ranging from tropical and spicy stone fruit through to fresh citrus characterize this interesting blend composed from 7 grape varietals. The grapes were hand-harvested and each varietal was fermented in stainless before selective blending. Fruit flavours replay on the palate—musk melon, peach, pink grapefruit and lemon-lime. There’s nice balance from fresh acidity and the signature spice of Gewürztraminer lingers on the finish. A vibrant and well-priced sipper, this vintage is already sold out at the winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Silver Series’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (209577) 13.2% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 11, 2010 @ $17.95) Perfumed and lifted aromas blast from the glass with passion fruit, green nettles and traces of honeyed fruit to the fore. It’s racy and refreshing on the palate with a surge of crisp flavour—lemon-lime and bracing, white grapefruit predominant. The mouth-watering aftertaste delivers more of the same mingling with nuances of key lime pie. It pours well with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawns under generous squirts of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Dominio del Plata ‘Crios de Susana Balbo’ Torrontés 2009
Cafayate $11.95 (001834) 13.5% alcohol
This is excellent value with lifted floral and spicy tropical fruit aromas that persist on the palate. It’s dry, medium bodied with a great core of fruit and fresh citrusy acidity that carries through on the lingering finish. A few bottles to share with friends won’t go amiss.


Alamos Malbec 2009
Mendoza $13.95 (467951) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a youthful deep purple Malbec with attractive aromas and flavours of spicy, dark berry fruit, vanilla and toast. It’s dry, medium bodied and smooth on the palate where ripe tannins and fresh acidity balance the robust fruit flavours. Harmonious and lengthy on the finish, it’s a good match to your choice of grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)


La Posta Pizzella ‘Family Vineyard’ Malbec 2008
Uco Valley $15.00 (166298) 13.9% alcohol
Inky purple, the aromas are reminiscent of spiced blueberry pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well structured with a lovely integration of ripe tannins, fresh fruity acidity and that concentrated spicy. ripe berry fruit. There’s a subtle note of cocoa that lingers on the smooth and satisfying finish. Enjoy it now with a hearty casserole. (Susan Desjardins)


Anakena ‘Single Vineyard’ Viognier 2009 

Rapel Valley $13.95 (45138) 13.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 9, 2010 @ $12.95) For a relatively young wine, this wine has lots of personality and was a gold medal winner at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London. Golden coloured with a pretty peach tint, it has intense aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruits and spice. All these wonderful aromas are reflected in the rich flavors of pineapple and tinned peaches with that lovely touch of bitterness characteristic of this varietal. It’s well balanced and full bodied, 25% of the grapes having aged in French oak. A great value at this price. (Susan Desjardins)


Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère 2008
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $14.95 (16071) 14.0% alcohol
This deep ruby blend (principally Cabernet Sauvignon) has very enticing vanilla, almost caramel aromas layered over sweetly spiced berry fruit. Medium-full bodied, it’s dry with a firm structure and a freshness on the palate that’s a great foil for the ripe fruit. There’s a tantalizing and elusive herbal note on the lengthy finish. Enjoy now or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)


Man Vintners Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Coastal Region $12.95 (126847) 13.5% alcohol
Bright-pale gold, produced from the free-run juice of older bush vines, expect subtle alluring aromas of stone fruit and citrus. There’s a whiff of minerality as well which comes through on the palate along with some zippy acidity and lovely flavours of fresh citrus and Granny Smith apple. Dry and light-medium bodied, it’s nicely balanced with a refreshing and persistent finish. A great match for roast chicken or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)


Bodegas Palacio ‘Glorioso’ Crianza 2006
DOC Rioja $15.95 (340844) 13.0% alcohol
An outstanding value from a highly reputed producer in a historic region . . . what more could you want! Semi-opaque and displaying a bit of age, this lovely wine displays aromas of well-ripened, spicy red fruit and hints of vanilla and cocoa. Dry, medium bodied, with fine ripe tannins and fresh acidity, it’s beautifully balanced. The ripe fruit and some toasty notes carry through on the lengthy finish. Glorious indeed, it’s drinking well now and has enough structure for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Quinta Do Portal Fine Ruby Port

DOC Douro $15.95 (087254)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 27, 2008 @ $16.95) There are aromas and flavours of spiced black plum, black cherry and black briary berry galore in this accessible-now Port. You'll find this fully textured, medium bodied and sporting a sweet and succulent fruity finish. It's versatile with food, pairing well with blue cheeses or cheddar, or coq au vin. This offers good value. (Vic Harradine)


Corte Majoli Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 

DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $32.95 (081943) 15.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $34.95) Raisin, grapey and cedar on the nose, this value-packed gem gets into high gear on the palate with flavours of tart cherry, tangy cranberry and juicy black currant galore. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and dishes out a well-balanced and flavour-packed finish. Poured and paired perfectly with osso bucco or lamb daube. (Vic Harradine)


Château le Pey 2008
AOC Médoc $17.95 (200071) 13.0% alcohol
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is a deep ruby color displaying aromatic complexity—earth, herbs, cassis, plum and spicy cedar. On the palate the fruits and spice replay, framed by ripe tannins and lively acidity. Medium bodied and generous it showcases a dry, persistent finish. A good match for beef tenderloin with a mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Château la Fleur Terrien 2008
AOC Lussac-Saint-Émilion $15.00 (199059) 13.0% alcohol
Another great value from Bordeaux, this Right Bank blend displays quite subtle aromas of plum, red berry and spice. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a ripe berry fruit core with notes of spice and licorice. Soft tannins and fresh acidity create a finely balanced supple wine. The long lasting finish is dry yet fruit filled. Serve it with now a rare rib-eye, or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Notre Dame’ 2008
AOC Corbières $16.95 (106518) 14.0% alcohol
This award-winning blend of Syrah and Grenache has complex perfumed aromas of sweetly spiced, dark berry fruit, along with underlying hints of licorice and earth. Medium-full bodied, with a velvety texture, the flavours on the palate are once again about black berries, spice box and a dash of pepper. Firmly structured and concentrated, it has a persistent, dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Autrand Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (200030) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this deep purple gem is a ‘very berry’ red—raspberry and blackberry—in both aromas and flavours, with an attractive herbal note dancing in the background. It’s dry, tangy, fruity and medium bodied, with lots of personality. Soft, ripe and balanced, it has a lengthy finish with a nice peppery herbal undertone. Enjoy this with slow-roasted lamb shoulder. (Susan Desjardins)


Yealands ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2008
Central Otago $20.95 (199943) 14.0% alcohol
Value-laden, this pale ruby wine has layers of aroma and flavour. On the nose, it’s earthy, spicy and redolent of sweet cherry; on the palate, encore, with hints of toast and cocoa. The fresh and tangy fruit is nicely balanced with moderate, perceptible tannin and lively acidity. It’s flavourful and refreshing to the fabulous finish. Pair with roast trout or grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

Gehringer Brothers ‘Dry Rock Vineyards’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (219642) 12.9% alcohol
This family-owned winery makes consistently good and accessible wines. Here’s one for the ABC crowd, pale gold, loaded with aromas and flavours of ripe tree fruit. It’s dry, light-medium bodied, smooth in texture and flavourful—pear and yellow plum come to mind. A backbone of lively acidity bring great vitality and freshness to the table. Try with veal al limone or grilled chicken breast. (Susan Desjardins)

USA: Red Wine

A by Acacia Pinot Noir 2009
California $17.95 (118927) 13.5% alcohol
Approachable, flavourful and silky in texture, this is an easy-drinking Pinot Noir that has attractive aromas and flavours—ripe cherry, sweet spice, earth and vanilla. It’s dry, medium bodied with soft tannins and lively acidity. It has lovely balance and offers a quality Pinot with sufficient structure to cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

RJ Viñedos ‘Pasíon 4’ Malbec 2008
Uco Valley $11.95 (194399) 14.0% alcohol
An opaque purple, this is a straightforward, quaffable red with a very consistent profile of sweetly spiced dark fruit. It’s dry, medium bodied with some notes of vanilla and pepper underlying the ripe fruity flavours. The value equation is in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

St. Hallett Shiraz/Grenache 2009
Barossa Valley $14.95 (24117) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby in colour, the appealing aromas of this wine evoke raspberry pie and vanilla ice cream. On the palate, it ripe, round and velvety, with juicy fruity flavours of raspberry and blueberry. Dry, lively and refreshing, it’s medium bodied with outstanding balance and a tasty fruity finish. An excellent value, drinkable on its own or with braised chicken thighs in a red wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Fairview Shiraz 2008
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (626358) 14.5% alcohol
The deep hue of this wine portends the aromas and flavours of dark fruit, along with hints of vanilla and dark chocolate. Nicely structured, it’s dry, medium-full bodied, with ripe tannins and adequate acidity. There’s depth of fruit, as well as attractive nuances of toast, spice and pepper. Balanced, harmonious and eminently approachable, it has a dry, smooth finish. An extra half star for value! (Susan Desjardins)


Flagstone ‘The Music Room’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

WO Western Cape $17.95 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 26, 2010 @ $17.95) Premium fruit sourced primarily from cool-climate areas plus meticulous cellar and winemaking practices coalesce in this beautifully balanced, complex and well-structured Cab. The nose is subtle—floral, spice, toasty oak and berry fruit—the flavours are anything but, with rich succulent Bing cherry, cassis, espresso roast and dark chocolate galore. Medium-full bodied with a generous silky-smooth texture, it’s underpinned by supple ripe tannin and blessed with a lingering lip-smacking fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Anne Boecklin Pinot Gris ‘Réserve’ 2007
AOC Alsace $18.95 (106831) 12.5% alcohol
Another award-winner from this producer, the wine is deep golden with a highly aromatic nose of honeyed peach, ripe apple and soft, sweet spice. The texture is rich and luscious, the flavour off-dry, replaying honeyed stone fruit and pear. It’s medium bodied with a concentrated, sweet, fruity aftertaste. A great foil for artisanal Québec cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Nages ‘Réserve Blanc’ 2009
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (427609) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of two white varietals of the southern Rhône, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, this dry, medium-bodied gem has a plush texture and lovely subtle aromas and flavours of stone fruit, pear and citrus. There’s a nice backbone of fresh acidity and some mineral undertones that carry the wonderful fruit flavours through the lengthy finish. A great choice for sole or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château de Gourgazaud ‘Cuvée Mathilde’ 2008
AOC Minervois $14.95 (958629) 13.5% alcohol
This is another consistently reliable value from southern France, a blend of Syrah and Mourvédre that has great depth and concentration. Expect aromas of dark berries, kitchen spice and a whiff of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it’s dry, medium bodied, loaded with rich ripe fruit, spice, pepper and a hint of cocoa. Nicely balanced with ripe tannin and fresh acidity, it offers a lengthy, deeply flavourful, fruit-filled finish. A good match for your choice of herbed roasted meats, it gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Umani Ronchi ‘Montipagano’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $12.95 (134585) 13.0% alcohol
Dry with remarkably intense body, this is a straightforward, smooth, ripe flavourful wine that offers ripe red cherry/berry fruit balanced with soft tannin and fresh acidity. The producer is a member of the Grandi Marchi, a group composed of those wineries considered to be the benchmark for the classic wines of their region. With this pedigree, great approachability and organic certification to boot, it’s a great value. (Susan Desjardins)


Montaribaldi ‘Tre Stelle’ Langhe 2008
DOC Langhe $14.95 (192435) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of ‘old vines’ Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, this semi-transparent, ruby gem has great balance and structure. Enticing floral, spice and sweet berry fruit aromas waft from the glass. It’s dry, medium bodied and well integrated with firm ripe tannin and lively acidity underlying rich red fruit and notes of spice. A lovely wine to savour, it gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Coppi Peucetico Primitivo 2006

DOC Gioia del Colle $13.95 (724674) 13.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $13.95) Well priced, the aromas and flavours—espresso roast, mocha, spice and mixed dark berry fruit—are underpinned by moderating acidity and almost imperceptible, ripe tannin. It’s medium-bodied and silky smooth with a balanced spicy finish. It ratchets up a notch with food, try pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Baglio di Pianetto y Nero d’Avola 2008
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (207423) 13.5% alcohol
A deep ruby, this tasty wine has aromas and flavours of dark fruit and spice along with a tantalizing earthy component. It’s dry, medium bodied with bright acidity and soft, easy-going tannin. Approachable, juicy and appealing, that elusive earthy note carries through on the mid-length finish. A good choice for a hearty winter stew. (Susan Desjardins)


Compagnia di Volpaia Citto 2008
IGT Toscana $13.95 (134817) 13.0% alcohol
This semi-transparent ruby blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is unoaked and dishes up tantalizing aromas of red cherry, black berry and a slightly herbal note. Dry and medium bodied, the acidity is tangy and refreshing while the tannin’s ripe and the berry flavours bright. It’s consistently flavourful through the mid-length finish. The quality/value equation is definitely in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough $18.95 (316570) 13.0% alcohol
Refreshing on the palate, the lifted aromas and straw-green hue draw the nose to the glass. Intense aromas of citrus, tropical fruit—papaya and pineapple—and notes of fresh asparagus abound. Light-medium bodied with a silky texture, it displays a tangy, lemon-lime acidity and a replay of aromas on the palate with flavours carrying through the persistent finish. A beautifully balanced white, it’s part of the Vintages Essentials collection and always available at select LCBO stores. Try with appetizers—polenta cakes with tomato jam and goat cheese, or with spinach-stuffed sole in a lemon/wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2009
Marlborough $18.95 (326728) 13.0% alcohol
Pale gold, this wine has the subtle and enticing aromas of a basket of ripe, orchard fruit and vanilla custard. It’s lush, round, medium bodied and well textured with attractive flavours of pear, apple and yellow plum riding a wave of graceful, citrusy acidity. There’s a nice balance of fruit and oak, with some underlying smoky toast and notes of spiced vanilla becoming manifest on the mid-length finish. A lovely complement to roast chicken or pork, this wine is part of the Vintages Essentials collection and is always available at select LCBO stores. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Reif Estate ‘First Growth Totally-Botrytis-Affected’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara River $50.00 (200 ml) 8.0% alcohol
Newly released, this unique nectar has been carefully crafted by Klaus Reif and winemaker Roberto DiDomenico by selectively harvesting old-vine Riesling grapes naturally affected by botrytis and placing them in customized, temperature-controlled kilns until all are totally. botrytis-affected. Golden, brilliant, subtle and elegant, it has delicate aromas of stone fruit—apricot and yellow plum, a hint of pineapple, sweet citrus and an underlying earthiness. Silky smooth in texture, it’s light-medium bodied with a replay of apricot, lightly candied citrus and an elusive note of earthy minerality. A spine of lively, citrus acidity creates a fine balance through the lingering finish. A delightful match for blue cheese or foie gras. Available at the winery or via Reif Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara River $46.95 (375 ml) 10.0% alcohol
Deep gold with an amber hue, it’s produced from 26-year-old Vidal vines. Expressive aromas entice—honey, orange liqueur and orchard fruit along with apricot and nectarine. There’s a rich, luscious, honeyed texture and fabulous balance of sweet fruit and fresh, tangy acidity. Flavours of ripe, tree fruit and crème caramel are matched with a lifted note of zesty, orange rind. The appealing contrast of the opulent texture and the refreshing tang carry through on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy on its own or with strong cheese. Available at the winery or via Reif Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Stratus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $75.20 13.5% alcohol
Hard to find better Cabernet Sauvignon than this from Niagara or many other places on the planet—it’s alluring and exotic on the nose with Asian spice, mocha, dark berry fruit and mint-infused cherry aromas. Medium-full bodied, silky smooth and brimming with ripe, succulent, complex flavour—black currant and juicy, black Bing cherry adorned with hints of toasty oak and bittersweet chocolate—it’s perfectly balanced supported by sweet, supple tannin. Offering structure, complexity and a ton of pleasure, you could pour now after a three-hour decant, but better cellared 2013 to 2017 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Petit Verdot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.20 12.5%alcohol
Here’s another limited-production, single varietal red that you’ll need to be nimble to get. The nose is all about dark berry fruit, spice and charry, toasted aromas. Dark, dried berry fruit mingles with fennel and assorted savoury herbs all firmly in the grip of a solid tannin structure framed by lashings of racy, red berry and rhubarb acidity. It’s full-bodied, well textured with a drying finish. Best to cellar and pour 2014 to 2017. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Icewine ‘White’ 2008 
VQA
Niagara Peninsula $40.15 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
Honeyed orchard fruit and floral aromas abound on the nose. The palate’s treated to a persistent stream of sweet, succulent flavour—tropical fruit, candied citrus and nectarine—carried along on a nicely textured bed of moderating acidity. It’s deftly balanced providing a mouth-watering, lengthy finish. Sip on its own as dessert or pair with apple, pear or peach fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

This is a seldom-used channel for sourcing fabulous wine not available except by traveling the world to various wineries. The agent orders these wines via the LCBO, but you won’t find them on store shelves. It’s like having access to wine that your friends only read about. And, the agent traveled half-way round the world to source it for you!


Hannes Sabathi ‘Klassik’ Scheurebe 2009
Südsteiermark, Austria $16.40 11.5% alcohol
Edgy and vibrant, this combines good acidity and mineral notes with luscious, ripe fruit flavour. There’s a bit of Scheurebe grown in BC, as well as Austria, with Germany home to this Riesling-cross varietal. Perfumed Kiwi fruit, passion fruit and herb aromas are a clarion call to succulent, racy flavours of white grapefruit, lemon zest, mineral notes and tropical fruit. It’s mid weight with a creamy mouth feel and a dry, lip-smacking lengthy finish. Order by the 6 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)


Hannes Sabathi ‘Klassik’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Südsteiermark, Austria $22.40 12.8% alcohol
Hannes is a young winemaker making quite a splash fashioning well-balanced wines with sense of place, a.k.a. terroir. There’s good acidity, great texture and loads of balanced, delectable flavour in this. Look for aromas and flavours of green bell pepper, lemon-lime and nuances of nectarine and melon mingling with notes of mineral. It’s nicely balanced with medium weight and a lively, crisp aftertaste. Order by the 6 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan