December 11, 2010 Vintages Release

Susan Desjardins is doing all the heavy lifting for this newsletter and the next few Vintages Releases while Vic is swirling, sniffing and spitting out of the country. Vic will contribute those he tastes while away, but similar to last winter, Susan will taste and review most of the wines in upcoming newsletters.

There are a number of ‘features’ including Sparkling wine in this release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the Vintages catalogue following the many features.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• 5 Stars – a Gewürztraminer from Alsace under France: White Wine and a Viognier from Stratus in New in Ontario Wineries ring the bell.
• What’s new? – Read about Sandbanks Winery in New in the LCBO Portfolio and check out four wines earning 4½ stars for $15 and under – one in each of the following sections: Italian: Red; Portugal: Red; New in Vintages and New in the LCBO Portfolio.

The Main Release

Fortified: Dessert Wine

Dutschke ‘Old Codger’ Fine Tawny
South Australia $19.95 (199786) 18.8% alcohol
You have to love the label—a wonderful portrayal of an aged gent in a tweed cap leaning on his cane making his way down a lane. The winemaker, in his youth, stacked wine barrels for this ‘old codger’. It’s caramelized sugar, dried fruits—apricots, figs—and toasty nuts on the nose with the aromas replaying on the palate. Medium bodied, luscious and flavourful, it’s a sweet, warm mouthful with sufficient acidity to create fine balance. At this price, what’s not to like? Savor it with fruit cake. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

Moët & Chandon ‘Grand Vintage’ Brut 2003
AOC Champagne $79.95 (069773) 12.0% alcohol
This delightful blend—50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier—is the 70th declared vintage by Moët since their first in the mid-1800s. The 2003 vintage was very warm, little sign of that here as it’s racy and refreshing. Look for ripe, fruit flavour—lemon and apricot—mingling with spice and nutty nuances—carried along on a bed of fine-beaded bubbles and generous texture. Quite elegant in packaging and on the palate, it’s a prime candidate to gift and a luxury to serve. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

13th Street ‘Premier Cuvée Brut’ Sparkling Wine
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (142679) 12.5% alcohol
From a winery whose founders set out to make great Ontario sparkling wine, this lemon-gold gem was produced in the classic ‘methode traditionelle.’ It entices with aromas of orchard fruit, citrus and freshly-baked biscuit. Dry and medium bodied, the mousse is fine, the fruit flavours zesty—Granny Smith apple and lemon-lime—and the texture tangy. The finish is fresh, bright and persistent. This is a wonderful choice for any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)


Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.20 (113035) 12.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combining Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of Cabernet Franc, displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with ice wine, it has a fine light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser, and gets an extra half star for its value and unique character. (Susan Desjardins)


Sumac Ridge ‘Stellar’s Jay Brut’ Sparkling Wine 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (264879) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a B.C. sparkler borne of the winery founder’s passion for great sparkling wine. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir crafted in ‘methode traditionelle’, there’s a peachy hue as it displays complex aromas—floral, citrus, pear and brioche. Lively and fresh, it has a delicate mouth-filling mousse with vibrant flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. Medium bodied, there’s a lovely, creamy mouth feel flowing into a zesty, dry, refreshing finish. Serve it with white meat or fish in a cream sauce or smoked salmon appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)


Gloria Ferrer ‘Sonoma Brut’ Sparkling Wine
Sonoma County $23.95 (192898) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a pretty peachy-pink tinge to this golden wine with appealing aromas of bread yeast, toasted nuts, ripe orchard fruit and citrus that carry through on the palate. Bright and fresh on the attack, it’s dry and mid weight with an impressive creamy mousse that reflects its effervescent character. Lively on the finish, it’s well priced and a great wine to whet your appetite. (Susan Desjardins)


Charles Duret ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Burgundy $17.95 (185694) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay, this sparkler has bright aromas of orchard fruit, white flowers and citrus. Dry, lively and fresh with a lasting effervescence, it’s medium bodied and minerally with tangy flavours of green apple and citrus. There’s an elusive nuttiness on the persistent, refreshing finish. Good value and a good choice to serve as an aperitif. (Susan Desjardins).



Graham Beck Brut Non-Vintage 

WO Western Cape, South Africa $17.95 (0593483) 12.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 14, 2009 @ $18.95) From an assemblage of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir; 30% of this blend was fermented in 205 litre ‘Piece Champenoise’ barrels. Complex aromas of apple, yeast, mushroom and meat broth are followed by a dry and medium-bodied palate. Crisp and 12% alcohol, the mousse is medium-fine and lively with a pleasant yeasty, apple finish. For a luxurious mid-afternoon snack, relax with a flute of this Cap Classique and an apple tartlet. (Lindsay Groves)



Santa Margherita ‘Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut’ Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 20, 2010 @ $17.95) Mineral and floral on the nose this dishes out a surprisingly generous texture and more flavour and structure than the breeding and price would suggest—this is good value. The mousse is abundant and infused with good texture and flavour—tangy white grapefruit, red currant and lemon chiffon pie. Serve to guests as they arrive and pair with stand-around sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Segura Viudas ‘Brut Reserva Heredad’ Cava
Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight in an elegant hand-blown bottle with a pewter crest and base, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. Remove base, glue cork in the bottom and use as a wine coaster. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Coyote’s Run Riesling Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 11.5% alcohol
A deep golden color, superb balance and attractive exotic aromas and flavours make this a fabulous choice for the holiday season. Lush in texture, fresh and lively on the palate, it has intense aromas and flavours of honeyed orchard fruit, apricot jam and five-fruit marmalade. The lengthy aftertaste further manifests the harmony of a tangy texture and luscious fruit. Sip before a roaring fire—with or without nuts, cheese or a fruit-based dessert. (Susan Desjardins)



Jackson-Triggs Icewine Gewürztraminer 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 200 mL (193326) 10.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 30, 2010 @ $34.95) Delicate aromas of exotic spice, floral notes and tropical fruit give way to a delicious and nicely balanced mouthful of pineapple, poached pear and spice-infused mango. This is mid weight and well textured with a lengthy finish adorned by hints of blood orange. Pouring well on its own, it also sips well alongside crème brulée. (Vic Harradine)


The Ice House ‘Northern Ice’ Vidal Icewine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (10.5% alcohol)
Amber colored, this deftly crafted icewine has enticing aromas and flavours of peach jam, dried mango, preserved stone fruit and crème brulée. It’s medium-full bodied with a rich, viscous texture that’s nicely balanced with fine acidity. Lush and mellow on the palate, it has a long flavourful fruity finish. Offered in a bottle hand-painted by a local Niagara artist, it would make a great gift. (Susan Desjardins)


Thirty Bench Riesling 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.70 (24133) 11.1% alcohol
Another great example of Ontario Riesling, this pale-gold gem has clean, fresh aromas of stone fruit and mineral, with a whiff of honey. Just off-dry, vibrant and refreshing, it trips lightly across the palate with notes of bright citrus and apricot that flow through the extended finish. It’s nicely balanced and a good choice for pork roast. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: White Wine

Nk’Mip Cellars Chardonnay 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (687699) 13.5% alcohol
An award winner, this is a dry, weighty, buttery Chardonnay with rich, ripe aromas of tropical and orchard fruits accompanied by notes of toasted nuts. Subtly balanced with fresh acidity, it’s medium-full bodied and has a lovely round texture and mouth-filling flavours of pineapple, spiced pear and sweet toast. Very pleasing on the palate, it finishes with a warm, spicy flourish. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Creekside Estate ‘Laura’ Red 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (117960) 12.7% alcohol
This is another award-winner, a Bordeaux blend aged 21 months in French and American oak. This is the first vintage it includes five varietals—Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the fore, along with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. From that wonderful 2007 vintage, this is medium-full bodied, deep and inky with loads of aromas and flavours of dark berries and plums with some attractive cedar, sweet spice and herbal notes. Ripe tannin and fine acidity create the framework for lovely balance. The finish is dry and persistent. A good choice for hearty winter meals. (Susan Desjardins)


Inniskillin ‘Reserve Series’ Meritage 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (91132) 13.5% alcohol
Can’t get enough of that 2007 vintage . . . opaque and deep purple, this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc delivers powerful aromas—ripe, dark fruit, floral and herbal notes—as well as a big flavourful mouthful of dark berry fruit and nuances of cocoa. Deftly structured, it’s medium-full bodied with a lingering dry, fruity finish. Well priced and a candidate for short-term cellaring, you could serve now with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Pelee Island ‘Vinedressers’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
VQA Pelee Island $19.95 (530576) 13.0% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this powerful wine was almost jumping from the glass with a complex array of aromas including tobacco, pencil box, spiced currant, vanilla and cassis. It’s savory, full bodied and robust with drying tannin underpinning flavors of black berries, plum, kitchen herbs and smoky toast. The lengthy, dry finish offers a persistent note of espresso roast. A candidate for short-term cellaring or serve tonight with herbed roast lamb. (Susan Desjardins)


Stratus Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.20 13.5% alcohol
This cellar dweller needs to be tucked away to allow it to strut its stuff. Aromas of lilac, black licorice and spice can be coaxed from the nose of this behemoth red. There’s a palate-coating, teeth-staining rush of ripe, juicy black berry, racy red cherry, espresso roast and graphite that persists through the lingering, tannic aftertaste. It’s full bodied, fully textured and brimming with potential. Cellar until 2015 then give it a go; it promises to be delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Nk’Mip Cellars Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (626416) 14.5% alcohol
Winner of gold at the All Canadian Wine Championships, this is a dry, dense, ruby-red wine chock full of aromas and flavours of dark fruit, cocoa and black pepper. Warm on the palate, it’s full bodied and firmly structured with ripe tannin and fresh acidity balancing the powerful fruit flavours. The pepper lingers on the finish, along with some tantalizing notes of dark toast and cocoa. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2009
California $19.95 (658112) 13.5% alcohol
For lovers of Viognier, this is a must-have wine . . . Bright golden, the aromas delight—floral notes, tropical and ripe stone fruit plus whiffs of perfumed musk. Medium bodied, there’s a silky texture and succulent flavours of apricot, nectarine and lemon-lime, lovingly balanced with lively acidity and underlying minerality. There’s a bright note of citrus peel on the dry finish. A treat – go for it! (Susan Desjardins)


Talbott Chardonnay 2007
Monterey County $34.95 (717181) 14.9% alcohol
Big, powerful and heady, this is deep-golden hued with intense aromas of toasty oak, ripe apple and pear. Rich, creamy and buttery, the flavours are reminiscent of apple/pear tart and vanilla custard. There’s a warmth on the palate and through the long-lasting, toasty, honeyed finish. Tuck it away for a couple of years or enjoy now with roast chicken or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: White Wine

Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay 2008
Columbia Valley $17.95 (232439) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of spice, tropical fruit and lemony citrus abound. There’s a persistent and fruit-packed wash of flavour with green apple, ripe white peach and tropical fruit underpinned by a good spine of citrus and hints of spice plus bare wisps of well-integrated oak. The mouth feel is smooth as satin while the lingering finish is perfectly balanced and lip-smacking good. The price and overall flavour and balance make this a terrific choice for your holiday bird. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine



Clos du Bois Zinfandel 2008 

North Coast, California $18.95 (38000) 13.5% alcohol 

This light-on-its-feet Zin dishes up a racy, herb-driven wash of flavour with good balance and a lengthy aftertaste. Aromas of sweet berry fruit and savoury herbs dominate the nose providing a smooth segue to focused flavours of savory red cherry and racy red currant. Poured perfectly with meat-laden, spicy pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Duckhorn ‘Decoy’ Pinot Noir 2008
Anderson Valley $29.95 (191833) 14.5% alcohol
Pale ruby, this wine displays finesse and delectable complexity. Aromas and flavours of red berry fruit, toast, spice and white pepper are finely balanced with ripe tannins and vibrant acidity. Toasty notes and bright fruit carry through on the extended finish. Enjoy with duck confit or braised veal shanks. (Susan Desjardins)


Hess ‘Select’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendocino/Lake/Napa Counties $23.95 (25080) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque, with a lush round texture, there are attractive aromas of cherry/berry fruit, spiced plums, cocoa and a hint of mint. Dry and mid-weight, it’s quite mellow and approachable with supple tannin and soft acidity. Dark cherry and cocoa flavours linger on the finish. Pour with roast beef, or pair with hard cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

Domaine Serene ‘Yamhill Cuvée’ Pinot Noir 2007
Willamette Valley $46.95 (186858) 13.8% alcohol
Beautifully crafted and balanced, this ruby-hued, medium-bodied Pinot has alluring fragrant aromas of flowers, earth, spice and bright-red berry fruit. On the palate, the texture is fine, the acidity vibrant, and the berry fruit replays—strawberry and raspberry. The finish is long, smooth and silky. Enjoy it with turkey and cranberries or cellar for 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

Alamos Torrontés 2009
Mendoza $13.95 (81539) 13.5% alcohol
Lively, flavourful and fresh, this has attractive, floral and citrus aromas with a hint of minerality. Medium bodied, it has a tangy texture, refreshing acidity matching the flavours of ripe stone fruit, citrus and the hints of spice and nuts. There’s of touch of pithiness on the crisp, mid-length finish. Value packed! (Susan Desjardins)


Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2007
Maipú $17.95 (143412) 14.1% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of low-yielding vines and aged in French oak for a year, this is deep-ruby hued and fragrant with aromas of sweet, dark fruit, licorice and smoke. Beautifully composed, it’s dry and medium-full bodied with loads of dark berry, pit fruit and spicy, peppery flavours that are deftly balanced with supple tannin and fresh acidity. The depth of fruit flavour is evident on the lengthy finish, which also offers a bright, peppery tang. Drinking well now, you could cellar and drink ‘till 2016. (Susan Desjardins).

Australia: White Wine

Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Riesling 2008
Adelaide $19.95 (606269) 11.5% alcohol
Golden with green notes in the glass, this is a tangy and fresh with good texture and lovely aromas of petrol, flowers and citrus. Light-medium bodied, with an underlying minerality, the citrus and petrol replay on the palate and are consistent through the lingering finish. It’s clean, refreshing and mouth watering. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Coriole ‘Redstone’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale $17.95 (59915) 14.5% alcohol
Deep and inky, this is a fruit-driven wine with abundant aromas of deep, dark, broody fruit. Ample and full-bodied on the palate, it offers lip-smacking, flavourful, dark fruit, accented by notes of spice and pepper. Approachable and easy to drink, there are some appealing notes of dark toast and chocolate on the aftertaste. It gains an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Glaymond ‘Landrace’ Shiraz/Mataro 2006
Barossa Valley $29.95 (144535) 15.5% alcohol
A powerful and beautifully balanced wine, this is a blend of Shiraz and Mataro (Mourvèdre) whose opaque, inky hue portends great depth and intensity. On the nose, there are subtle, intricate aromas of earth, dark berry fruit, herbs and smoky toast. Dry and full bodied, the firm tannin and fresh acidity complement ripe dark fruit—think blackberry jam and blueberry pie. Lush fruit and notes of dark chocolate persist on the finish. Displaying a big personality now, you can drink until 2017. (Susan Desjardins)


Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier 2008
Eden Valley $19.95 (524926) 14.5% alcohol
Purple-hued in the glass, this is a very approachable and quaffable wine that offers rich, ripe, dark fruit, vanilla aromas plus a floral drift on the nose. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied with some soft tannin and acidity matched to spicy berry fruit. Appealing and easy to drink, it’s dry and fruity to the finish with some nice notes of toast and pepper. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Wither Hills ‘Wairau Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough $18.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol
Straw with a green tinge, the aromatic debut is grassy and gooseberry evolving to sweet tropical notes. Light-medium bodied, silky and crisp, the flavours are sweet tropical and citrus fruit with an uplifting tang on the persistent finish. This is nicely balanced and very appealing. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Kim Crawford ‘Small Parcel Rise-and-Shine Creek’ Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago $29.95 (35337) 14.0% alcohol
Rise and shine indeed, this wine’s unique; it’s not your ‘typical’ Pinot Noir. Deep and inky in color with alcohol evident on pouring, the concentrated aromas are blackberry jam, boysenberry, sweet spice and subtle smokiness. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s supple, dense and intensely flavoured with some gentle acidity paired with the dark berry flavours. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wines

Delheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $16.95 (981357) 14.0% alcohol
Well crafted and medium-full bodied, this is an attractive wine with aromas of ripe berry fruit, bell pepper and pencil shavings. The palate’s awash with dark berry fruit and replaying nuances of pepper and herbs. Structured with ripe tannin, it delivers a lengthy, dry finish. It’s a good match for roasted or grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

The following is a limited release in select stores—not listed in the Vintages catalogue. Diemersfontein Pinotage has a cult following as ‘the original coffee and chocolate Pinotage’, is under $20 with very little of it to go around—if you want some, act quickly.


Diemersfontein Pinotage 2009
WO Wellington $19.95 (956409) 14.5% alcohol
Smoke, tar and dark chocolate aromas presage a balanced, well-structured and flavour-packed gusher of spice-infused, ripe, juicy fruit—black currant, mulberry and succulent black Bing cherry mingling with bittersweet chocolate. Powerful, medium-full bodied with touches of elegance and finesse, it dishes up a persistent, mouth-watering aftertaste that’s framed by moderating acidity underpinned by sweet, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine



Anne Boecklin ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2008 

AOC Alsace $19.95 (141226) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $19.95) A winner, this wine is luscious gold in the glass. It has great intensity with generous floral and sweet tropical aromas. It’s full-bodied with a rich, round mouth feel balanced by crisp texture. Sweet fruit, hints of lychee and a zesty pithiness carry through on the long, lingering finish. An outstanding wine at a great price. (Susan Desjardins)


Jean-Pierre Teissèdre Pouilly-Fuissé 2009
AOC Burgundy $22.95 (183483) 13.0% alcohol
Fresh and vibrant, this is a dry, medium-bodied Chardonnay with fruity aromas of pear, citrus and flint. It displays lovely balance with a beautiful, silky texture and tangy acidity racing across the palate and through the extended finish. A classic Chardonnay. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château la Chèze 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $18.95 (191007) 13.0% alcohol
This gold-medal winner is an example of great value from Bordeaux. Composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it spent 18-24 months in barrel. A deep-ruby colour, it’s all about dark berries, plum and cherry with some lovely licorice notes on the nose. Dry and mid weight with ripe tannin, it’s quite robust with dark toast and berry fruit carrying through lengthy finish. At this price, a few bottles wouldn’t go amiss. (Susan Desjardins)


Doudet Naudin Pinot Noir Bourgogne ‘Hautes Côtes de Beaune’ 2008
AOC Burgundy $24.95 (199554) 12.5% alcohol
Yet another gold-medal winner, this is a fine, elegant wine with subtle aromas of red berries, earth and spice. The earthiness weaves through the spicy, berry flavours—red cherry and cranberry. Silky in texture with fine acidity, it has a lasting aftertaste of tangy red fruit. A lovely choice with roast fowl or salmon. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Gourgazaud ‘Réserve’ 2006
AOC Minervois la Livinière $17.95 (986083) 13.5% alcohol
A deep, opaque-red hue, this has an enticingly complex nose—cherry, plum, spice cocoa and licorice. Dry and mid weight, it’s a balanced mouthful of richly textured, brooding dark fruit and spice, with supple tannin and fine acidity. The finish is pleasingly warm and fruity with some lingering notes of dark chocolate. It gets an extra half star for value; pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Chante Cigale ‘Tradition’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (194993) 15.0% alcohol
Crafted from the fruit of 45-year-old vines, this powerful, deep-ruby blend of Grenache (principally), Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault is a wine of complexity and depth. Full bodied, it’s dry, round and smooth. Aromas and flavours include dark berry fruit, earth, herbes de Provence and a sweet note evoking spicy dried fruit. With some warmth on the palate, supple tannin and fine fruity acidity, the balance is wonderful. An elusive, perfumed note persists through the lengthy finish. Designed to last, enjoy a bottle now and hold one long-term. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Dr. Hermann Riesling ‘Kabinett’ 2008
Prädikatswein Erdener Treppchen $16.95 (189647) 7.5% alcohol
Definitively off-dry, this is an absolutely delightful wine with attractive aromas of citrus, stone fruit, mineral and a notion of petrol. It’s light-medium bodied with a silky texture and flavours reminiscent of key lime pie. There a balancing freshness that carries through on the long-lasting finish. With such low alcohol, lovely texture and sweet, fresh flavour, it’s easy to enjoy now and will cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Ascheri ‘Vigna dei Pola’ Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $41.95 (739920) 14.0% alcohol
Mahogany colored and semi-transparent, this is a firmly structured, dry, powerful wine with attractive floral aromas and hints of earth and field berries. Medium-full bodied, with the aromas replaying on the palate, it also displays some notes of spice and toast on the dry finish. Decant for 2 hours and serve with braised beef or cellar to savor in a few years. (Susan Desjardins)


Montaribaldi ‘La Consolina’ Barbera d’Asti 2008
DOC Barbera d’Asti $15.95 (182212) 13.0% alcohol
This is a deep-ruby coloured gem offering good value. Fresh, spicy and fruity, it’s dry, mid weight and lively, with bright cherry/berry flavours on the palate. The tannin’s supple and the fruit and spice carry through on the mid-length finish. Easy on the budget and easily shared with friends at a holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)


Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (295964) 14.0% alcohol
This historic, family-owned estate pays rigorous attention to organic methods in the creation of its wines. This is semi-transparent with a hint of brick, dishing up rich, ripe aromas of red berry fruit, fragrant cedar and spice. Dry and medium bodied, it has outstanding balance—ripe supple tannin, fresh acidity and bright fruit complemented with hints of spice, pepper and licorice. Fine, consistent, with a smooth texture, it leaves a lasting imprint on the palate, but a light touch on the planet. (Susan Desjardins)


La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2007
DOCG Montepulciano $24.95 (566216) 13.5% alcohol
This is a dense and opaque, beautifully balanced wine with an expressive nose of opulent, dark berry fruit, plum, spice and mineral. It’s medium bodied and structured with ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Warmth, spicy dark fruit and a trace of cocoa linger on the dry finish. This is a wine to sip and savor. (Susan Desjardins)


Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
IGT Toscana $15.00 (69377) 12.5% alcohol
A dark-cherry red, this value-laden blend was aged in oak for one year. On the nose it’s cherry, plum, toast and leather. Firmly structured and medium bodied, it has some dusty tannin and fresh acidity framing bright red fruits—cherries and raspberries come to mind—with spice, toast and cocoa lingering on the finish. Very appealing and a good match for earthy meat dishes, it can also cellar short term. What’s not to like? (Susan Desjardins)


Rocca delle Macìe Chianti ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti $15.00 (111641) 13.5% alcohol
Principally Sangiovese with a dash of Cabernet and Merlot, the wine was aged 24 months in large barrels and is another great value from a well-established producer. Deep and opaque in appearance, intense aromas of lush, dark fruit, chocolate, leather and toast waft from the glass. It’s mid weight with luxurious berry pie fruit, spice and pepper. It’s balanced with supple tannin and fine acidity. The finish is lengthy, dry and fruity. At this price, you should spring for a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta do Cerrado 2007
DOC Dão $14.95 (194720) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, this wine was aged six months in Portuguese oak barrels and has deep, rich, almost port-like aromas of fruit, chocolate and dried fruits. Richly fruity with a smooth, velvety texture, it’s medium-full bodied with supple tannin and fresh acidity. The finish is persistent, dry and fruity. A good match with roast meats, this wine gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Acústic Celler ‘Acústic’ 2008
DO Montsant $18.95 (190728) 14.5% alcohol
From the fruit of old vines, this blend of Carignan and Grenache was aged in French oak for just under a year. Inky purple, its expansive aromas of spiced, ripe fruit and sweet, smoky oak leap from the glass. On the palate it’s dry, structured and full bodied displaying ripe tannin and fresh acidity that’s well integrated with the full-on flavours of dark berry fruit. Warm, peppery fruit persists on the finish. Enjoy it now with full-flavoured meat dishes, or cellar a couple of years. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

Fontanafredda Briccotondo ‘Piemonte’ Barbera 2008
DOC Piemonte $15.95 (72348) 13.0% alcohol
This is a subtle, balanced wine whose appeal unfurls on the palate. Expect intense, clean, lightly spiced almost floral, fruit aromas. Dry and lightly oaked, it’s mid weight and very approachable with fruit to the fore—black cherry, plum and raspberry—a smooth texture, soft tannin and fresh acidity. The mid-length finish displays fine nuances of cinnamon toast, pepper and dark chocolate. Very enjoyable with meat and vegetable lasagna. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select LCBO stores. (Susan Desjardins)


Herdade do Esporão ‘Reserva’ 2007

DOC Alentejo, Portugal $25.95 (606590) 14.5% alcohol
A Vintages Essentials product, you should find it always available in select stores. This is a red blend of the indigenous Trincadeira grape, Aragonês (a.k.a.Tempranillo) and Cabernet Sauvignon that dishes up an alluring nose of leather, dark berry fruit, espresso roast and gamy notes. On the palate it’s medium-full bodied with juicy red cherry and pomegranate wrapped in a grainy tannin underpinning. A wine that ratchets up a notch with food, give it a go alongside Swiss steak or grilled and smoked back ribs. (Vic Harradine)


Sella and Mosca ‘Cannoneau Di Sardegna Reserva’ 2006
DOC Cannoneau Di Sardegna, Italy $14.95 (425488) 13.5%alcohol
Brimming with great value and luscious fruit, this Cannoneau a.k.a. Grenache earned its final ½ star on value. Lifted aromas of red licorice, red berry fruit and toasty oak presage a steady wash of racy fruit flavour with red currant, pie cherry and pomegranate to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with a lengthy, dry finish that layers on black currant and spice. This is a Vintages Essentials product that comes from southern Italy with the promise of always being available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

Chapoutier ‘Rasteau’ 2008
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rasteau, France $17.95 (321539) 14.0% alcohol
A hand-harvested, Grenache-predominant blend that jumps from the glass with lifted aromas of berry fruit infused with meaty, gamy notes. There are oodles of racy pomegranate, red currant and cranberry flavour riding a focused stream of tangy and spicy acidity throughout. It’s medium-bodied delivering a juicy, dry aftertaste. Pour alongside spicy, meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Montgueret Crémant de Loire ‘Brut’
AOC Crémant de Loire, France $19.15 (621896) 12.0% alcohol
Displaying a frothy mousse, this blend of primarily Chenin Blanc plus Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc has appealing aromas—orchard fruit, citrus, brioche and flint. Vibrant and crisp in texture, the mouth-filling bubbles carry crisp nuances of grapefruit, citrus peel and minerality. Dry, light and refreshing with a lively and persistent finish, it’s a great holiday aperitif and a year-round, go-to sparkler. (Susan Desjardins)

The following sparkling Rosé was sent for tasting along with the above—both from an area that’s the second-largest producer of sparkling wine in France and from a respected producer of sustainable agriculture wine. It’s not available in Ontario, but certainly makes a strong case to earn a spot on LCBO shelves.


Château de Montgueret Crémant de Loire Rosé ‘Sec’
AOC Crémant de Loire, France $N/A 12.5% alcohol
The source varietals—Cabernet Franc and Grolleau—create a shimmering, pale-salmon hue. The bubbles are fine-beaded and frothy while subtle aromas and flavours captivate—ripe, juicy, red berry fruit adorned with wisps of yeasty lees. It showcases deft balance with vibrant, mouth-watering acidity moderated by sweet, red fruit flavour. It’s lip-smacking and juicy on the lengthy finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Errazuriz ‘Estate’ Carmenère 2009
Valle Aconcagua, Chile $12.95 (16238) 13.5% alcohol
Bistro-styled and brimming with value, the rich cherry/berry nose provides segue for a sweet, rich, rush of mulberry, dried berry fruit and spice-infused cherry persisting throughout. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a long aftertaste. It’s the perfect dance partner with a variety of foods—burgers, gourmet sausage, meat-lovers pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Peter Lehmann ‘Clancy’s Red’ 2007
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95 (611467) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, close to one-third each—never fails to please. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured along with delightful aromas of spice box, tar and black licorice. It’s exceptionally smooth and silky throughout. Succulent mulberry and racy pie cherry mingle with nuances of dark chocolate on the palate and lingering aftertaste. Good sipping on its own it has the heft and balance to match well with hearty stews and grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)


Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Washington State, U.S.A $14.95 (144022) 13.5% alcohol
This gem’s hiding on shelves amongst hundreds of wines costing more, delivering far less; look for it and pick one up. Susan reviewed the ’07, rating it 4½ stars, as well. It’s a classy number delivering a glorious mouthful of delectable, well-balanced flavour—mint-infused juicy, sweet, black cherry and black currant jam adorned with moderating racy, red-berry fruit. It’s mid weight with a smoothly textured mouth feel and a long, delicious, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

Sandbanks – Now a decade on, from what was then a huge gamble, Sandbanks has blossomed into, ‘the little winery that could’. The face and heart, wine maker and viticulturist of Sandbanks is the irrepressible, charming Catherine Langlois. Her Quebecois farming roots go deep in the soil first making herself known to Ontario wine lovers as the tireless representative of Pelee Island Winery before planting her roots—vinifera and hybrid—in Prince Edward County in 2000. From a tiny six acres, she’s put her winery on the map with wines delivering good flavour, good balance, good value, selling almost as quickly as they’re bottled. Has Sandbanks reached their potential? As Tillie the little engine exclaimed, “Ha! Are you kidding? Hold on to your smokestack!” Here are three worth your attention.


Sandbanks Baco Noir 2009
VQA Ontario $14.95 (110049) 12.5% alcohol
A crowd-pleasing red that’s chockfull of charm and rich, fruit flavour, it jumps from the glass with a whoosh of sweet vanilla and concentrated, dark field-berry aromas. Palate-coating flavours of black currant jam, plum compote, some spice and hints of dark chocolate persist through the lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s medium-full bodied and looking for a hearty companion—grilled steak, osso bucco or leg of lamb. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour and this is true across the brand. (Vic Harradine)


Sandbanks ‘Waves’ Cabernet – Merlot 2009
VQA Ontario $14.95 (159962) 12.5% alcohol
Dark toast, cherry and black currant on the nose, it delivers a rich and luscious wash of black currant, pie cherry and sprigs of savoury herb and mint on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied, well textured and underpinned by a perceptible, ripe tannin structure. The dry, mid-length finish is nicely balanced and adorned with nuances of cassis and tobacco leaf. Decant three hours pouring with rosemary-rubbed rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Sandbanks Riesling 2009
VQA Ontario $14.95 (139022) 11.5% alcohol
Captivating aromas of floral, minerality and mango abound. This is a well-balanced, delicious explosion of ripe, juicy fruit with succulent pineapple, ripe citrus and tropical fruit to the fore. The sweet and tang flavour of this off-dry gem dishes up that yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Thai or Indian cuisine, as well as sushi. (Vic Harradine)


Silver Point Sauvignon Blanc 2009
New Zealand $12.95 (187013) 13.0% alcohol
Expect a combo of gooseberry aromas and lovely, woodland floral and ripe pear notes from this well-priced, pale-hued wine. Minerality and racy acidity underpin the bright basket of citrus flavours that complement an appealing herbaceous note. Light bodied and balanced, it has a silky texture and a persistent tangy, pithy finish. Paired perfectly with seafood appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)


Villa Maria ‘Private Bin’ Pinot Noir 2007
Marlborough, New Zealand $19.95 (146548) 13.5% alcohol
Light on its feet and bone dry, it opens with red berry and spice aromas followed by a focused stream of racy fruit—red currant, rhubarb and pie cherry. It finishes with a lip-smacking surge of cranberry tart and spice. Give it a go alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Inniskillin ‘Legacy’ Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 14.0% alcohol
Alluring and intensely fragrant, this wine flaunts its weight as you pour. There’s an alchemy here—optimal ripening conditions, some grapes harvested earlier, others later, some steel fermented, others aged in barrel—that produced a suave, creamy wine. Oh, yes… this is Pinot Gris! Intense aromas and fragrances of tropical, honeyed stone fruit entice. On the palate there’s a ripe, smooth texture and rich fruitiness balanced with tangy acidity and warm satisfying finish displaying nuances of lightly toasted nuts and vanilla. Absolutely wonderful, it lingers on. Only 130 cases were produced and it’s available only at Inniskillin Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Grange of Prince Edward County Sparkling Brut 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (183228) 12.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet charmer will dance its way into your heart. Leesy, toasty and pear on the nose, there’s a steady stream of fine bubbles that carry crisp, clean flavours of ripe citrus, pear and green apple through the mid palate and lengthy, mouth-watering finish. It’s light-medium weight, very generously textured, deftly balanced and excellent value. Order yours now for office or home delivery by the case of 6 from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)


Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Estate – Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 12.5% alcohol
This is one stylish Chardonnay—100% barrel fermented, 8½ months aged in French oak—oozing class and flare. Floral, melon and hints of baking bread on the nose, it delights the palate with deftly balanced waves of ripe fruit—Granny Smith apple and sweet, juicy pear—adorned with hints of toasty oak and white peach. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured with a well-balanced, lingering, refreshing finish. What’s not to like? Good to go now with roast leg of pork and root veggies. Order yours now for office or home delivery by the case of 6 from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)


Palatine Hills Estate Winery ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $17.95 13.0% alcohol
Gooseberry along with assertive aromas of nettles on the nose, this really hits its stride on the palate with a rich and luscious gusher of passion fruit and ripe melon. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a refreshing finish that cleans up crisp and lip-smacking good. It also cleaned up at the 2010 Ottawa Wine and Food Show competition with a silver medal. Order yours now for office or home delivery from Palatine. (Vic Harradine)

Stratus – Their winemaker, J-L Groulx, is a master of assemblage—blending wines to bring out not only the best in each, but coaxing synergy from them. Stratus was the world's first winery to earn LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Canada certification; think of LEED certification as much tougher than simply ‘organic’ as it includes the buildings as well as the land. As a winery, they’ve taken sustainability and resources invested in design, equipment, technology and winemaking techniques to Stratus-pheric heights. The results are impressive—quality wine in each price bracket.

Free delivery to home or office for cases of 6 bottles or more from Stratus.


Stratus Viognier 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $38.20 13.5% alcohol
This brims with a profusion of knock-your-socks-off aromas and flavour—only 68 cases made…pity! White peach, honeyed pear and orange zest on the nose, it coats the palate with an array of complex, luscious flavour—poached pear, ripe melon and lashings of spice-infused citrus. It’s beautifully structured, mid weight and smooth as satin with a sexy, alluring and lingering, balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $48.20 12.5% alcohol
An involved blend of seven grape varieties—Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Gamay and Syrah—this dishes up a focused stream of spice-infused red currant, cherry flavour mingling with nuances of minerality. There’s sweet berry fruit on the mid-palate while the mid-length, balanced finish is adorned with savoury herb and underpinned by a solid tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Icewine Semillon 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.15 200 mL 13.0% alcohol
Buckwheat honey, ripe pear and mango aromas on the nose, this is gloriously textured coating the palate with a huge mouthful of rich, luscious flavour—honey-drizzled poached pear, crème brûlée and spiced yellow plum predominant. The lengthy, luxurious aftertaste is balanced and lip-smacking good. It’s the perfect size for two. (Vic Harradine)

A heartfelt donation has been made on your behalf to The Salvation Army from ‘winecurrent subscribers’. The Salvation Army is a Christian charitable organization, but offer assistance to all, especially those who are most needy and in the most unfortunate of circumstances.

Merry Christmas and the best of the Holiday Season from Vic, Susan and Dave