November 27, 2010 Vintages Release

The winecurrent-reviewed wines that follow are in the order of the Vintages catalogue.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Private Order Wines – they’re at the tail end of the newsletter—like dessert, the best saved for last. Purchase wines you’ve previously only read about. You wait a few weeks for delivery, but they’re wines not yet found on LCBO shelves.
• 5 Stars – a liqueur, Champagne, Amarone, red and white table wine—nine in all sprinkled throughout. Most are pricey—some a great value.
• New in Ontario Wineries – there’s a bevy of beauties—two at 5 stars along with winery information in this latter section of the newsletter.

Beaujolais Nouveau! Historically it was the harbinger of the new wine vintage in France, now released on the third Thursday of November each year. Wine wasn’t stable then and would often ‘spoil’ before the new vintage was harvested leaving a thirsty void. Therefore, the new vintage was much anticipated and the first wine highly prized.

The Beaujolais region of France, with its Gamay grape plus fairly easy and fast access to the Paris restaurant/wine shop market, cottoned on to a speedy way of turning grape juice into a fruity and fun wine made for early consumption called carbonic maceration—it’s still used today for Beaujolais Nouveau. 


Ignore wine poseurs who drone on that it’s not a ‘serious’ wine; have fun with it. Chill the wine slightly, invite friends, serve with a deli food platter (sliced meats; ham sausage; olives; goat, stinky or creamy cheese; garlic dills and a baguette) enjoy as Parisians of long ago, celebrating with bistro food and friends. Here’s one from Niagara…

Reif Estate Winery ‘The Fool – Beaujolais Nouveau’ 2010
VQA Niagara River $10.95 (220483) 13.0% alcohol
It’s fun, fruity with definite aromas of grapes and savory notes. It’s food friendly fronting up well to ham, pork and poultry as well as the aforementioned deli platter. There’s not really much else to think about. Pick up a bottle or two and enjoy over the next three months! (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Liqueur

St-Germain ‘Delice de Sureau’ Liqueur Artisanale
France $49.95 (180695) 20.0% alcohol
If your desire is to inspire and captivate, then this elderflower liqueur was crafted for you! First up, the bottle’s in an Art Deco style. Then there’s the process required to transform these ephemeral spring flowers into this exotic liqueur. Open, pour, and the aromas fairly leap from the glass—stone fruit, honeyed melon, expressive white floral notes and a hint of anise. It’s decadent, richly textured with aromas replaying on the palate augmented with a whiff of tinned apricots. All that rich flavour and texture is lovingly balanced with fine acidity. The warm finish is luscious and long lasting. Perfection on its own, but destined for martinis. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified: Aperitif Wine

Lillet Blanc
Bordeaux $13.95 (322297) 17.0% alcohol
Golden-hued with a peachy note, this aperitif wine is a blend of Bordeaux wine and citrus liqueurs which has been produced since the late 1800s. It has engaging aromas and flavours of tropical fruit—mango with a squeeze of lime comes to mind—and orange-lemon marmalade. A spine of tangy acidity awakens the palate and acts as counterpoint to the ripe succulent fruit. Exotic spice and candied orange rind linger on the warm finish. Serve well chilled with a slice of orange, lemon or lime. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified: Port

Delaforce Vintage Port 1994
DOC Douro $69.95 (163063) 21.0% alcohol
Lifted, sharp fragrant aromas of red cherry, raisin and fig abound from this concentrated and richly flavoured Port. The spice-driven flavours—black plum compote, black currant and Christmas cake—persist through the long finish. There’s a moderating bite and a perceptible tannin underpinning here; drink now poured alongside aged, hard cheese after a three-hour decant or cellar for mellow sipping 2015 – 2025. (Vic Harradine)


Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port

DOC Porto $14.95 (134908) 20% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 26, 2009 @ $14.95) This is still one of the great bargains in the LCBO. An entry level "Ruby" Port that over-delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit fruit flavours. More of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of Parmigiano-Reggiano to match. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta de Ventozelo Ruby Reserva Port 

DOC Porto $16.95 (141028) 20.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 24, 2009 @ $16.95) Rich, well balanced and flavourful, this offers excellent value and at just the right time of year—pick up a few for winter sipping. Raisin, sweet spice cake and vanilla on the nose, this glides over the palate with a satin-smooth texture dishing out plush black currant, dark cherry and spiced black plum flavours galore. The lengthy finish is redolent of cassis and bitter-sweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)


Sandeman ‘Vau’ Vintage Port 2000 

DOC Porto $29.95 (973768) 20.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 24, 2009 @ $29.95) Fruit forward and charming, this is much more developed and accessible than most young Vintage Ports. Spiced dark berry fruit aromas introduce this medium- to full-bodied nicely textured food-friendly Port. It’s easy to sip—ripe black cherry and strawberry flavours—as the tannin is barely perceptible. It also pairs well with aged hard cheese or chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)


Warre’s Vintage Port 2007 

DOC Douro $79.00 (140251) 20% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $79.00) The lifted nose from the opaque liquid shows spice, tar and sweet dark berry fruit. The complex flavours are super sweet with cassis, succulent bramble berry and boysenberry mingling with savoury spice. It’s full bodied, generously textured and structured by firm tannin and framed by good moderating acidity. This long-lived gem should offer superb drinking 2025 to 2040. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $39.95) This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)


Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Champagne Brut 

AOC Champagne $269.95 (038562) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 6, 2008 @ $269.95) This is forward, full bodied and from, arguably, the planet’s premium producer of bubbly. It’s also Krug’s flagship ageworthy cuvée. Typically, Krug Grande Cuvée is blended from as many as 50 wines from the three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and form six to ten different vintages. Baking brioche and clove-infused lemon aromas segue bold and beautiful flavours—spiced green apple, citrus and yellow peach—proffered on a generously textured bed of fine pinpoint effervescence that’s persistent and refreshing through the robust and lengthy finish. This has the structure and character to pair well with a festive bird—this year or any from now to 2012. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Domaine J. Laurens ‘Les Graimenous Brut’ Crémant de Limoux 2007
AOC Limoux $17.95 (183608) 12.0% alcohol
Originating from the birthplace of French sparkling wine and made méthode traditionelle, this pale gold gem practically jumps from the glass with dramatic mousse and citrus to the fore. Tangy and compelling, it’s dry and vibrantly fresh with bright citrus, green apple and yeasty notes. The finish is long and palate cleansing. Tantalizing when served with smoked salmon appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)


Bellussi Belcanto Spumante Extra Dry 

DOC Valdobbiadene $16.95 (0053215) 11.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 6, 2008 @ $19.95) This lovely Prosecco is made using the Charmat Method, also referred to as cuvée close, where the second fermentation is carried out in a pressure tank as opposed to in bottle as is the case with the traditional method. Very aromatic on the nose with floral, white fruit, coconut, green apple and sweet herb notes. Dry and light bodied on the palate with a very active, prickly mousse, crisp acidity, 11.5% alcohol and a fresh finish. Prosecco is the perfect apéritif to have on hand, especially over the holidays when you don’t necessarily want to be cracking open a bottle of Champagne every time somebody pops by. (Lindsay Groves)

Niagara: White Wine

Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2007

VQA Beamsville Bench $35.20 14.3% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $35.20) Vanilla, oaky and persimmon on the nose, this complex and beautifully structured white doles out a generously textured stream of flavour—it was barrel fermented, lees stirred and aged in French oak—with caramel-infused apple, nutty notes and lip-smacking citrus to the fore. It’s balanced throughout with the lingering finish layering on exotic spice and a peel marmalade flavour. Drop-dead gorgeous now, it’ll improve in bottle over the next two to three years. (Vic Harradine)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $65.00 (034561) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a delightful mélange of aromas—pineapple, toasty oak and slate/mineral—introducing this perfectly balanced, luscious, long-finishing gem. Nectarine, yellow peach and racy citrus on the palate, this mid-weight, nicely textured Chardonnay releases a glorious mouth-watering spray of sweet fruit framed by moderating acidity on the balanced, lingering aftertaste. Pair with pan-seared fish or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (033936) 13.5% alcohol
Golden-hued, subtle and perfumed, this vintage is another success with fragrant aromatics—orchard fruit, light toast and a hint of vanilla. Deftly applied oak delivers notes of light toast while the texture and flavours are reminiscent of pear and autumn apple tart with rich custard. Medium bodied, the wine has great acidity and a mineral note, with a very attractive finish featuring a replay of the orchard fruit and subtle toast. A match for holiday fowl, or a candidate for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Peninsula Ridge ‘Fumé Blanc’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (008102) 13.0% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, toast and spice aromas presage assertive flavours of oak-infused spiced green apple and citrus on the palate. It’s medium bodied and well textured sporting an aftertaste that’s dry, racy and lip smacking good. Pair with calamari rings or pan-seared scallops under a squirt of fresh lemon. Good now, I suspect it’ll improve in the short term, giving time for all elements to knit together. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $21.95 (205732) 14.0% alcohol
Light on its feet and heavy on charm and finesse, aromas of honeyed pit fruit and ripe citrus drift from this aperitif-styled white. There’s a focused stream of nicely textured flavours on the palate and mid-length finish—white grapefruit, lemon pie filling and sweet vanilla. Enjoy on its own or pour alongside steamed mussels in a white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Niagara: Red Wine

Tawse ‘Meritage’ 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $57.95 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 20, 2010 @ $57.95) Each of the components of this well-integrated blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc—was aged separately in French barriques. Dark red with a tinge of violet, it’s a fine example of focused winemaking in an excellent red-wine vintage. Expressive and evocative aromas of rich, dark fruit mingle with earthy notes, spice, floral and cedar. This is beautifully balanced and richly textured. It’s also full bodied with intense berry jam, plum and dark chocolate flavours on the long, warm finish. Designed for lengthy aging, it’s enticing to drink it now. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

Burrowing Owl Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (585737) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque with a hint of brick at the rim, this wine displays the great quality of Merlot in the south Okanagan. Complex aromas include tangy berry fruit, nuanced spiced floral notes and soft vanilla. The palate is equally intricate, chockfull of dark berry and pit fruit, toast, espresso roast, pepper and spice. Dry and intense with ripe tannins and lively acidity, this medium-full bodied wine has a very consistent profile and a long-lived finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Le Vieux Pin ‘Epoque’ Merlot 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $37.95 (206318) 14.7% alcohol
A deep, opaque red, this is another great Merlot from the south Okanagan exhibiting dark berry aromas with an herbal undertone—mint comes to mind—and sweet vanilla. Intensely flavourful, highly extracted dark berry and plum flavours are lifted by some bright, spicy, peppery notes and fine acidity. Medium-full bodied, it’s rich and concentrated with a firm texture and a persistent, dry, toasty finish. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Beringer Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Napa Valley $21.195 (394353) 14.1% alcohol
Crisp, clean and refreshing, this opens with an array of interesting and alluring aromas—orange marmalade, spice and hints of gooseberry with floral notes. It’s medium bodied with a nice mouth feel and flavours of pineapple, citrus and spiced orchard fruit. The aftertaste is racy and refreshing; give it a go alongside scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)


Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2007
Sonoma Mountain $69.95 (183921) 14.1% alcohol
Patience will be rewarded in spades; drink 2013 to 2018 when it has blossomed into a stunning Chardonnay. Yellow gold in the glass, there are lifted aromas of dark toast and oak mingling with citrus notes. Unfined and unfiltered, it’s medium weight with a generous mouth feel. There’s succulent mango and spice-infused green apple mingling with white peach on the palate and lengthy, clean and refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Sterling Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Napa County $21.95 (56325) 13.5% alcohol
Citrus and gooseberry to the fore, this fresh wine also has some subtle stone fruit aromas and flavours. Medium bodied, crisp and dry, the palate is awash with citrus—lemon, lime and grapefruit—racing along on a spine of vibrant acidity. The bright tangy finish refreshes. A great starter wine to whet your appetite or serve with grilled white fish, veal or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Beringer Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $29.95 (919647) 14.3% alcohol
Perfumed berry fruit and mixed spice box aromas presage sweet, dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and succulent boysenberry adorned with sprigs of savoury herb on the palate. It’s mid weight with a nice texture and sports perceptible tannin on the lingering, dry aftertaste. Decant three hours and pour with rosemary-rubbed grilled rack of lamb or drink 2014 – 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Clos du Val Zinfandel 2008
Napa Valley $22.95 (590216) 13.9% alcohol
Nicely crafted with balance and heft, the aromas of spicy black fruit jump from the glass. Medium-full bodied, the wine is fruit forward yet dry, with supple tannin and fresh balancing acidity. Peppery, fruity and luscious flavours of berry pie persist on the finish. Enjoy it with lamb casserole or beef stew. (Susan Desjardins)


Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa County/Sonoma County $19.95 (135376) 13.9% alcohol
Bistro-styled and bursting with value, look for aromas of toast, field berry fruit and spice followed by a persistent wash of tangy, rich flavour on the palate—boysenberry, pie cherry and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied and well textured sporting a lip-smacking finish adorned with minty notes. Good to go now paired with pasta in tomato-based sauce or spicy, meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Macrostie Pinot Noir 2007
Carneros $24.95 (674911) 14.2% alcohol
Medium bodied, redolent of sweet ripe berry fruit, earth and exotic spice, this semi-transparent garnet wine has a lovely, silky, round texture and fine acidity. Ripe berry flavours—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—complement slightly peppery autumnal notes. The finish is lengthy and lively. Savour on its own now or cellar a few more years. (Susan Desjardins)


Perry Creek Syrah 2007
El Dorado $19.95 (201194) 14.9% alcohol
This is a value-packed crowd pleaser dripping with sweet, rich, concentrated flavour. Perfumed, alluring aromas abound with dark berry fruit and sweet vanilla predominant. It’s generously textured, medium-full bodied and loaded with complex, succulent fruit-forward flavour throughout—mulberry, cassis and bramble berry. The lingering aftertaste layers on ripe, supple tannin and moderating acidity for balance. If this is your preferred style, it’s a ripper. (Vic Harradine)


The Show Cabernet 2007 

California $17.95 (140715) 13.9% alcohol 

This is a kick-ass blend that bolts from the glass with rip-roaring aromas of toast, dark berry fruit and spice. It hits full stride on the palate with rich, luscious and balanced flavours—black currant, mint-infused cherry and dollops of chocolate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with good pace throughout. The tail end is lingering, fruity and lip-smacking good—leaving you champing at the bit for more. (Vic Harradine)


Winesmith ‘Planet Pluto’ Meritage 2006
California $18.95 (205195) 13.5% alcohol
There’s nothing like trumpeting your scientific position on the wine label, and this producer is an advocate for Pluto being reclassified as a planet. While waiting, you can enjoy this blend of the Cabernets and Merlot which offers an enticing nose with aromas of dark fruit, herbs and mushrooms. Full flavoured, the wine has fresh acidity and some grippy tannin that underpin the intense spicy fruit. The finish is dry, with a lasting note of espresso roast. Take it into orbit with a hearty beef dish. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

Dobbes Family Vineyards ‘Grande Assemblage Cuvée’ Pinot Noir 2007
Willamette Valley $29.95 (070565) 13.5% alcohol
It’s pronounced Will-a-mette, dammit. Fresh, assertive aromas of strawberry and red cherry jump from the glass. There’s great purity of fruit with a laser-like focus of racy cranberry, pomegranate and red currant persistent through the dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s light-medium body with good texture ratcheting up a notch poured alongside spaghetti Bolognese or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Añoro Chardonnay 2009
Mendoza $26.95 (183855) 14.2% alcohol
Balanced and succulent, this dishes up an outstanding Chardonnay that’s value-packed and downright delectable. Lashings of sweet, succulent ripe apple, persimmon and sweet Bosc pear mingle with upside-down pineapple cake and nuances of toast. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with a lengthy, delicious and deftly balanced aftertaste. It’s perfect with steamed lobster dipped in drawn butter or a holiday roast turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Bodega François Lurton ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $17.95 (903153) 14.0% alcohol
The ubiquitous Francois Lurton, having bought out his brother in 2007, has a wine empire that spans the globe making only well-made, well-priced wine. The alluring nose of dark, campfire smoke, dark berry fruit and exotic spice is an interesting segue to this racy, tangy, balanced red. Red currant, ripe cranberry and red cherry stream over the palate and crisp, dry finish that’s layered with hints of savoury herbs. Pair with veal parmesan or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)


Clos de los Siete 2008
Mendoza $21.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol
“Par Michel Rolland”, this blend is deeply colored and fragrant with aromas of roses, blueberry pie, cedar and vanilla. Ripe black berry flavours are framed by perceptible tannin and lively acidity. Medium-full bodied, the wine has some interesting nuances of herbs and underbrush. Dry on the finish, there’s a nice bite of tangy, bitter chocolate. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Casa Lapostolle ‘Cuvée Alexandre’ Merlot 2008
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $34.95 (459206) 15.0% alcohol
Always a favourite and highly regarded, exotic aromas of Asian spice, dark berry fruit and aromatic bitters abound. There’s a gusher of flavour on the palate with ripe, juicy boysenberry and dark, Bing cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a lovely, creamy mouth feel and a lingering, well-balanced aftertaste highlighting more ripe fruit and generous lashings of tannin. Drink 2014 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)


Tabalí ‘Reserva Especial’ Pinot Noir 2009
Limari Valley $19.95 (47514) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent and fragrant, there’s sweet fruit on the nose—cherry, berry—as well as subtle notes of spice and vanilla. Dry, yet softly textured and medium bodied, the palate is awash with sweet, ripe, spicy fruit—cherry, raspberry and strawberry—with a dash of white pepper. The finish is persistent and consistent with a replay of the red fruit, pepper and vanilla. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2004

Barossa Valley, South Australia $40.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 16, 2010 @ $39.95) This wine missed the final cut for the $100 a bottle E&E Black Pepper Shiraz by a hair—you do the math. Overflowing with exotic spice, black pepper and licorice aromas, the delectable flavours—bramble berry, black juicy cherry and spice-infused mulberry—are delivered with incredible balance and a generous texture. There’s a long finish of fruit and savory herb wrapped in firm tannin. You could drink this now after a two-hour decant, but to do it full justice pick up three, drinking every three years beginning 2012. (Vic Harradine)


d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $49.95 (981183) 14.5% alcohol
Langton’s, the authoritative Australian wine ranking system, place this in the top 25 wines in all of Australia—you’d be hard pressed to get your hands on any of the others paying double this price and more if you could. Sensual aromas of exotic spice and dark berry fruit presage the luscious and racy, relentless river of chocolate-covered cherry, cassis and black plum compote. It’s balanced, mid-full weight, nicely textured with seamlessly integrated oak, perceptible tannin and an aftertaste that doesn’t quit or tire the palate. Drink 2014 to 2020 with grilled back straps of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Barossa $29.95 (9175) 14.0% alcohol
Crafted from 35-50 year-old vines, the depth of color and aromas captivate—floral, cassis, fine cedar predominate. Full bodied and dry, there’s firmness in the structure, fine acidity, yet a velvety texture. The palate is richly flavoured and focused—black berry fruit with spicy toast and vanilla. The finish is dry and long lasting. Decant to serve with rare bison tournedos or cellar for up to a decade. (Susan Desjardins)


Leasingham ‘Bin 61’ Shiraz 2005 

Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (448241) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 14, 2009 @ $25.95) Expect focused aromas of ripe cassis, black plum and milk chocolate on the nose of this wine. Although it’s already seen some bottle age, the tannic structure is still impressive and provides a nice backdrop for all the fruit on the palate. Although this wine has good balance today, it should really hit its stride in another four to five years. Enjoy with a mixed grill of pepper steak and roasted lamb. (Mark Tandan)


Marquis Philips Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (017475) 16.0% alcohol
Rich and port-like, sweet and succulent in alcohol and style, this palate-coating, hedonistic, behemoth is flavour-packed with sweet, jammy flavour—cherry clafoutie, black plum compote and dark raisin. It’s full-bodied with a generous mouth feel and lingering finish. Sip with chocolate dessert, aged cheddar or a handmade stogie. (Vic Harradine)


Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $149.95 (564278) 14.0% alcohol
Balanced, complex and beautifully structured, this is satin smooth on the palate and packed with succulent flavour. Dark purple and sporting aromas of mixed spice, tar and mixed berry fruit, there’s a delicious surge of black currant, black raspberry and bramble berry and mocha moderated by nuances of pie cherry and underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering aftertaste. It’s drinking well now after a two-hour decant, you might also cellar to drink 2012 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Peter Lehmann ‘Layers’ 2008 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (138883) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 21, 2009 @ $17.95) Full bodied and fully textured, this is also a full-bore delicious red blend that’s well priced. Savoury spice and dark berry fruit aromas segue palate-coating flavours of minty black currant, chocolate dipped cherries and spiced black plum. With barely a hint of oak or tannin, this is plush and accessible; it drinks well on its own and has the oomph to pair well with grilled strip loin or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


The Garden Path Shiraz/Cabernet 2006
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $17.95 (199539) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, luscious, palate coating and age worthy, this dark, brooding gem delivers a hefty mouthful of charming flavour with oodles of charm—bramble berry, black currant with hints of dark chocolate and spice-infused cherry. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured dishing up a lingering, balanced aftertaste that’s emblazoned with fruit-forward flavour and ripe, supple tannin. Good to go now after a two-hour decant poured alongside rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield Estate Pinot Noir 2009
Adelaide Hills $17.95 (197392) 14.0% alcohol
Lively, dry and medium bodied, this well-priced Pinot Noir has some interesting aromas—floral, herbal and spicy with vibrant red fruit. Textured like silk, there are smooth, ripe tannins and lively acidity framing cherry and raspberry flavours with a hint of eucalyptus and light toast that carry through on a lengthy, warm finish. A nice match for roast chicken or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)


Wolf Blass ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005
South Australia $99.95 (960468) 15.0% alcohol
Just a tad off 5 stars, this is rich and concentrated, luscious and delectable. Aromas and complex flavours abound—rich Bing cherry, black currant and bramble berry mingling with espresso roast and black licorice. It’s beautifully structured, full bodied and full of texture showcasing a long-lasting finish of dark berry fruit laced with spice still in the grip of a solid tannin structure. Drink 2012 to 2020 with confidence. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

René Muré ‘Signature’ Pinot Gris 2007
AOC Alsace $17.95 (597757) 13.0% alcohol
Baked apple, spice, green tea and tropical fruit on the nose, this dishes up quite a generously textured mouthful of fleshy, sweet, ripe fruit—poached pear, yellow peach and apple predominant. It’s medium-full bodied with a mid-length finish that barely shows acidity. (Vic Harradine)


Chartron & Trebuchet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2009
AOC Beaune $17.95 (183673) 13.0% alcohol
This features nicely integrated aromas of orchard fruit, citrus, vanilla and light toast. Round on the palate, the wine is dry and medium bodied with orchard fruit on entry that morphs into lively citrus notes on the mid palate. It’s generous, fresh and nicely balanced with a replay of the aromas on the mid-length finish. It definitely has the substance and depth to pair with holiday turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

La Cave Dourthe ‘Terroir d’Exception - Croix des Menuts’ 2006
AOC St-Émilion $21.95 (190991) 12.5% alcohol
Rich, plummy, smoky with an evocative note of minerality, this wine offers ripe dark fruit to the fore. Round and softly textured, it’s medium bodied with a reasonable level of balancing acidity. The ample fruit carries through on the mid-length finish displaying some spicy toast. Enjoyable and value priced. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine des Ailes Moulin-á-Vent 2009
AOC Moulin-á-Vent, Beaujolais $15.95 (183442) 13.0% alcohol
Purple hued, this is a very approachable wine from a heralded vintage that teases with aromas of candy apple and spiced red fruit. Medium bodied, the aromas replay on the palate, which has some fine tannins and fresh acidity. Dry, yet sweetly spiced and fruity, there’s a tantalizing note of cocoa on the mid-length finish. Easy to enjoy, on its own, or with friends! (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Machard de Gramont ‘Clos Blanc’ Pommard 1er Cru 2006 

AOC Pommard 1er Cru, Burgundy $39.95 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent July 10, 2010 @ $44.95) Billows of earthy, savoury spice and camphor aromas emanate from the perfumed nose. It’s light bodied, delicately textured with a persistence of gamy tangy flavour throughout—racy cranberry, red currant along with hints of cherry cordial mingling with notes of bacon and savoury herb and spice. A very good effort in a challenging year with enough tannin for interest and structure and good acidity—decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)


Château La Bouscade ‘Old Vine’ Carignan 2007 

AOC Minervois $18.95 (78758) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent July 23, 2010 @ $18.95) Not often found as a single varietal, this is a medal-winning inky, opaque Carignan from the south of France produced from the fruit of 60-year-old vines. It has lovely aromas of tart berries, leather and cassis, as well as a savory note. Fresh acidity complements the dark berry, spice and smoky oak flavors. It’s consistent and well made, medium bodied with a mid-length fruity finish. Lovely on its own, it matches up well with roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Due Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $76.95 (951475) 14.5% alcohol
If the price doesn’t faze you, pick up a few; if you can make the stretch, pick up just one as it’s worth every penny. Tar, garrigue, black licorice and spice-infused dark berry fruit aromas abound. A spectacular tsunami of complex flavour drenches the palate—black currant, kirsch liqueur and spiced bramble berry mingle with truffles, vanilla and espresso roast. It’s full-bodied with well-integrated oak and riding on exquisite structure and texture with ripe, sweet tannin and deft balance throughout. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t; it won’t be on shelves long after store opening. If you like early-drinking wine—fruity, fresh and full bodied—consume it over the next 5 years. After that it will become smoother, fleshier, developing a more complex bouquet and give away some of that solid structure. It portends a long life, perhaps to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Galévan ‘Paroles de Femme’ Côtes du Rhône 2007

AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.00 (125930) 14.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent July 20, 2009 @ $15.00) You’ll go a long way to beat this price-quality ratio—load up the trunk. The perfumed nose delivers savoury herb, dark berry and plum jam aromas while the palate is washed in full-bore fruit flavours of warm, sweet kirsch liqueur, succulent Bing cherry and spiced black plum. Full bodied and silky smooth, it’s surprisingly well balanced with enough structure and moderating acidity to keep it on track and enjoyable, glass after glass. It’s perfect for backyard barbies and on into winter with heartier meats and stews. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling Spätlese 2003
Pradikätswein, Scharzhofberger, Mosel $21.95 (712471) 8.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas—for Riesling lovers—of petrol, wild flowers, honey and hints of mineral bolt from the glass of this flavourful, value-packed, off-dry beauty. Mid weight with a generous texture and nice balance, the finish lingers, lip-smacking good. Mouth-coating flavours of honeyed pear and candied tree fruit alongside ripe citrus provide that glorious sweet and tang, yin and yang experience that marries so well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Zenato ‘Lugana’ 2009
DOC San Benedetto $13.95 (707158) 13.0% alcohol
Golden-hued, with a refreshing texture and intriguing aromas—floral and spiced-pear tart—this medium-bodied wine, produced from estate-grown fruit, has very pleasing flavours of orchard fruit and soft citrus with a nice seam of acidity. Enjoyable and flavourful through the mid-length finish, it’s a delightful sipper. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Wilhelm Walch ‘Riserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
DOC Alto Adige $19.95 (193466) 13.5% alcohol
Well paced and well made, this delivers a steady stream of pure fruit flavour throughout. Aromas of spice box, dark berry fruit and toasty oak are predominant on the nose while palate’s treated to a persistent wash of black plum, black currant and bramble berry infused with spice and earthiness. It’s mid weight with a good mouth feel and sports a lengthy, balanced, delicious aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Bricco dei Guazzi Barbera d’Asti 2007
DOC Barbera d’Asti $17.95 (181495) 13.5% alcohol
Compelling aromas keep your nose to the glass—herbs, earth, red and black berries and a whiff of bacon. The mid-full weight palate is loaded with berry fruit, supported by lively acidity and fine ripe tannin. Well balanced with a lovely silky texture, the wine offers a replay of the earthy herbal notes on the finish. A very satisfying wine—savour with hard cheese. (Susan Desjardins)


Cantine due Palme Primitivo 2006
IGT Salento $15.95 (658351) 13.5% alcohol
Deeply colored, this is a full-flavoured, generous wine with quite complex aromas—black fruits, spice, leather and toasty notes. Dry and medium-full bodied, it has ripe tannin and fine acidity complementing the plump, fruit flavours that last through the lengthy finish. Nicely balanced and easy to drink, it gets an extra half star for value. Enjoy it with your favorite pasta. (Susan Desjardins)


Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $43.95 (579094) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed field berry fruit, cedar and mocha form the alluring nose. Complex and nicely structured, it’s vibrant and rife with lively flavours—cranberry tart, luscious cherry and fresh strawberry with hints of savory notes on the aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, well textured and delivers a nicely balanced stream of fruit, moderating acidity, ripe sweet tannin for underpinning and moderating acidity for balance. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Casanova di Neri ‘Rosso Di Casanova di Neri’ 2008
DOC Sant’Antimo $23.95 (204578) 14.5% alcohol
Appealing, well crafted and elegant, this almost opaque wine displays weighty aromas of ripe sweet, dark and dried fruit. Dry, medium bodied, it’s beautifully balanced and offers a subtle spiciness, mocha, sweet vanilla and ripe round flavours of sweet berries and dried fruit. There’s great integration and consistency right through the long-lasting finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Barbi ‘Brusco dei Barbi’ 2007 

IGT Toscana, Italy $13.95 (673160) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $14.95) Fragrant and perfumed on the nose, look for aromas of lilac, spice and blueberry. The flavours are lively, grapey and mouth filling with red berry fruit, more spice, and nuances of pie cherry for balance. It’s light on its feet with good texture. The tannin’s fully resolved while the finish is nicely balanced and lingering. Sipping perfectly well on its own, there’s enough body and flavour to match up well with pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Sassicaia 2007
DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia $149.95 (480533) 13.5% alcohol
A chosen few will gobble this iconic Super Tuscan up: ‘trophy hunters’ to impress others; upscale, often Italian, wine-friendly restaurants; and well-heeled wine lovers that appreciate a label that vintage-after-vintage delivers ‘fine wine’. Dark toast, fennel, sprigs of spice and herbs, dark berry and tree fruit aromas percolate from the lifted, perfumed nose. The complex flavours are rich, concentrated and luscious—black currant, spiced black plum and juicy Bing cherry. This is dense and full-bodied with a creamy mouth feel, deftly integrated oak, balanced and age worthy. The lengthy fruit-forward finish layers on savoury herbs and spice. Drink now, after a three-hour decant, and on to 2025. (Vic Harradine)


Allegrini ‘Palazzo della Torre’ 2007
IGT Veronese $25.00 (672931) 13.5% alcohol
So expressive, this blend is produced in a modified Ripasso method. Seventy percent of the grapes are vinified immediately after harvest, while the remaining 30% are dried until December, after which the wine ferments a second time. It has lovely aromas of rich, almost jammy fruit, sweet spice, licorice and a hint of toasty vanilla. Full bodied, firmly structured and intensely fruity, it’s robust and slightly chewy. With quite lively acidity, the wine demands your attention, replaying the rich fruits on the finish, along with hints of dried fruits and dark chocolate. Very tasty, match it with hearty meat dishes, hard cheeses, or cellar for another 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Michele Castellani ‘Cinque Stelle’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $54.95 (075127) 15.5% alcohol
This gem has complexity, structure, lovely balance and a silky-smooth texture. On the nose, there’s a profusion of assertive aromas with black berry, gamy notes, wood smoke and dark raisins predominant. A palate-coating gusher of ripe, succulent flavour surges in waves—dark berry fruit, black cherry and nuances of espresso roast and dark chocolate. It’s charming and lip-smacking delicious with an underpinning of supple, ripe tannin and a monumental aftertaste. Not inexpensive, still, it punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Valpolicella $49.95 (35620) 15.0% alcohol
Ample, deeply hued and fragrant, the aromas are enticing—dried fruit, figs, spiced berries, vanilla and sweet cedar. Dry, yet richly fruity, this Amarone is big, round, velvety and intensely flavourful, displaying loads of ripe, spicy red berry, pit fruit, dried fruit and even a toffee-like note. Well crafted and balanced, the intense fruit rests on soft tannin and acidity. That structure ensures a full, yet fresh, finish. Enjoy this wine with nuts, dried fruits and cheese or cellar for a special occasion. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas y Viñedos Fernandez Rivera ‘Dehesa de la Granja’ 2004
Tierra de Zamora $21.95 (192476) 14.0% alcohol
Dense and inky, there are some intriguing smoky, earthy, leathery notes to the nose of this Tempranillo, which spent 30 months in new French oak. The earthiness and a hint of iron mingle with the scent of red berries. Dry, medium-full bodied, the flavours of toast, sweet raspberry and black berry are intense. Round, fresh, supple and balanced, the extended finish features ripe fruit and an elusive earthy quality. (Susan Desjardins)


Sierra Cantabria ‘Selección’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $13.95 (190520) 13.5% alcohol
This is tangy, racy with nerve and verve and bursting with balanced, spice-driven flavour—black currant, pie cherry and a basketful of mixed spice and savoury herbs. It’s mid weight, nicely textured, with a dry finish and about as good as it gets at this price—pick up a few. A nice drop sipped on its own, it’s a versatile food wine fronting up well to spice-laden pizza or sausage and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)


Taja ‘Gran Reserva’ 2003
DO Jumilla $18.95 (539148) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of toast, mixed field berry, leafy herb and oodles of spice mingle on the nose while the palate’s treated to a untiring stream of dark berry fruit, spice-infused black plum, mocha and savoury herb and spice. Medium bodied with a nice mouth feel, it finishes mid length, dry and balanced. Good to go with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Concha y Toro ‘Xplorador’ Carmenére 2009
Valle Central, Chile $9.95 (177816) 13.5% alcohol
Recently released in the LCBO, this is a valued-priced, medium-bodied wine with appealing aromas of sweet, spicy dark fruit. Approachable now with soft tannin and fresh acidity, the dark pit and berry fruit replays on the palate with brawny notes of dark toast that carry through on the mid-length finish. This delivers good value, earning its final ½ star because of it; it’s an ideal choice for grilled meats, lasagna or meat pizza. (Susan Desjardins)


Concha y Toro ‘Casillera del Diablo’ Carmenére 2009
Rapel Valley, Chile $12.95 (620666) 13.5% alcohol
An opaque, carmine color with intense aromas of plums and spiced black berries, this wine is dry, medium-full bodied and richly fruity. Displaying a velvety texture, it’s dry with ripe tannin and fresh acidity framing the sweet, ripe fruit. Notes of espresso, spice and pepper enliven the palate and a hint of dark chocolate lingers on the finish. Well crafted and well priced. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Charles Baker – Charles is Sales and Marketing Director at Stratus, producing only one wine under his own name. It’s a Riesling from a small vineyard owned by Chef Mark Picone high on the Vinemount Ridge and this ’08 is the fourth vintage—and for my money the best yet. Low yields, meticulous vine management and exquisite terroir coalesce with J-L Groulx’s winemaking expertise—he’s wine maker at Stratus—and Charles’ relentless passion to fashion what may be Niagara’s top Riesling.


Charles Baker ‘Stratus – Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.00 10.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed aromas of diesel, slate and lemon zest dance from the glass of this dazzling expression of Riesling at its finest. The third vintage tasted—all 5 stars—and this the best to date; it showcases a slightly oily texture with a persistent wash of focused, racy citrus and kiwi fruit along with streaks of mineral. The tension, nerve and verve on the palate is palpable, delivering a mouth-watering shower and lip-smacking, lingering finish of bracing, balanced ambrosia. Drink 2012 to 2020. Free delivery to home or office for cases of 12 bottles or more from Stratus. (Vic Harradine)

Riverview Cellars Winery – It’s difficult to keep up with the 100+ wineries in Niagara, but here’s a family-owned concern —Pillitteri family, closely related to Pillitteri Estate Winery—you’ll want to make note of. As you’ll see below they’re making quality wine that’s fairly priced and shipping free to home or office with a liberal, mixed-case policy. Vinified from primarily estate-grown fruit, the CCOVI-trained winemaker, Angela Kasimos, is fashioning award-winning wine showcasing balance, versatility with food and a strong aromatic profile.


Riverview Cellars ‘Salvatore’s Reserve’ Cabernet 2008
VQA Niagara River $20.95 12.8% alcohol
This is special, don’t miss out—the price quality balance tips well in your favour. Tantalizing aromas—vanilla, dark berry fruit and spice—presage a delectable array of complex, ripe, succulent flavour with ripe, black, Bing cherry, juicy mulberry and hints of mint to the fore. It’s 2/3 Cab Franc and 1/3 Cab Sauvignon with 12 months in American oak. Full-bodied with a silky smooth texture, it’s perfectly balanced with a lingering aftertaste showing off fine-grained sweet tannin and more delicious fruit. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara River $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Aged in seasoned French (primarily) and American oak, this purple-red wine has a delicate nose reminiscent of cherry cordial, cinnamon and vanilla. Dry, mid weight and intriguing, it has structure and impact, with bright red fruit flavours—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—supported by firm tannin and lively acidity. The finish lingers with elusive notes of grilled herbs, toast and white pepper. Serve it with tomato-based dishes or cellar for 2-3 years. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)


Riverview Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $13.95 12.4% alcohol
The lifted nose evokes flowers, stone fruit and citrus aromas. A lively tang on entry awakens the palate providing a segue to vibrant flavours of green apple, grapefruit and lemon. Mid-weight, taut with a zippy spine of acidity, the wine has a lengthy consistent finish. Try it with smoked salmon appetizers or with a seafood main course. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)

Private Order

Domaine Kuehn ‘Grand Cru – Kaefferkopf’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace $25.15 12.0% alcohol
This is the flagship wine of this +300-year-old winery. It delivers a fruit-salad bowl full of exotic, alluring aromas with succulent white peach, poached Bosc pear and sweet pineapple. The purity of tree fruit on the palate—nectarine, green apple and ripe citrus is in perfect balance with the lip-smacking delectable, lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid weight with a generous mouth feel and delivers a favourable price-quality balance. Order by the 6 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)


Lacroix-Triaulaire & Fils Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $42.45 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of baking brioche, melon and hints of leesy notes presage a beautiful burst of fine-bead, persistent bubbles. This light-medium bodied, value-packed gem makes its way to the palate on a bed of silky smooth texture dishing out a balanced, crisp and refreshing mouthful of racy blood orange and lemon zest. The finish in this 20% Chardonnay-80% Pinot Noir blend is mouth-wateringly delectable. It earned its final ½ star on value. Order by the 6 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)


Night Harvest Chardonnay 2008
Margaret River, Australia $29.05 13.4% alcohol
Showcasing Margaret River, arguably Australia’s top-drop Chardonnay region, this is a dazzling expression of hi-toned, well-structured, impeccably balanced wine. Aromas of toasty oak and tropical fruit give way to a complex, palate-coating wash of flavour—sweet vanilla and pineapple, ripe pear and citrus adorned by nuances of integrated, toasty oak. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy smooth texture supported by a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Delicious now, it’ll improve over the short term and drink well into 2016. Order by the 12 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)


Night Harvest ‘Classic White’ 2010
Margaret River, Australia $20.15 12.8% alcohol
This crowd-pleasing blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay opens with zesty aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit and hints of tropical fruit. It’s light-medium weight with good mouth feel and oodles of flavour—lemon pie filling, key lime and juicy white peach. There’s a lovely blend of sweet and tang on the palate and lingering aftertaste making this the perfect dance partner for Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. Order by the 12 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta de Lubazim ‘Grande Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro, Portugal $49.25 13.5% alcohol
Richly perfumed aromas on the nose—truffles, gamy notes and cherry—usher in mouth-coating, succulent flavours that wash in endless waves with juicy, black, Bing cherry, cassis and framboise eau-de-vie to the fore. Full bodied with a generous mouth feel, it’s structured, complex and well balanced. This blend of local Port grapes fashions a delightful rustic quality on the warm, lingering, fruity finish. Sip by the fire after a three-hour decant or pour with hearty fare—osso bucco, cassoulet or smoked, grilled back ribs. Order by the 6 bottle case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan