November 13, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with 35 pages of wines that are repeated, along with others, pages 36 – 56. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the complete release, pages 36 – 56 in the catalogue.

It’s that time of year – The LCBO’s preparing for the seasonal rush, bringing out the heavy hitters in terms of quality and price. You’ll see this as you glance through the catalogue and the following winecurrent reviews—price and stars skewed skyward.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Value-driven wines under $15 – they’re in the ‘New in LCBO Portfolio’ section following the Main Release
• 5 Stars – one Port, five red table wines and two icewines ring the bell – Gould Campbell Vintage Port 1983; Luigi Bosca ‘Finca Los Nobles’ Cabernet - Bouchet 2005; Terra d’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006; Antinori ‘Guado Al Tasso’ 2007; Riverview Cellars ‘Salvatore’s Reserve’ Cabernet 2008; Hidden Bench ‘La Brunante’ 2007; Riverview Cellars Riesling Ice Wine 2009; Stratus Icewine Riesling 2008
• New in Ontario Wineries – there’s a bevy of beauties along with winery information in this final section of the newsletter—you pass it up at your peril.

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Gould Campbell Vintage Port 1983
DOC Douro $79.00 (731752) 20.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas waft from the glass of this elegant classic—floral, dark fruit, spice cake and a hint of licorice. Warm, full and firmly structured, with great intensity and depth, there are complex flavours of dates, caramel and dense spicy dark fruit with fine complementary acidity. Warm rich peppery fruit and a tangy bitter chocolate note characterize the persistent finish. Enjoy it now and forever. (Susan Desjardins)

Dessert Wine

Quady ‘Essencia’ Orange Muscat 2007
California $13.95 (299552) 15.0% alcohol
A delight for the senses, this peachy gold dessert wine has consistently appealing aromas and flavours of honeyed apricots, candied orange rind and sweet clementines. The luscious flavours and texture are balanced with lively acidity, leading to a warm, sweet yet fresh finish. Lovely, and a great value. Serve it with orange and lemon tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Trivento Brut ‘Nature’ Non-Vintage
Argentina $14.95 (183871) 12.5% alcohol
A pretty peachy salmon color, this medium-bodied blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay displays attractive aromas and flavours of toast, sweet stone fruit and red berries. Softly textured, nicely balanced and fruity, it has energetic bubbles and refreshing acidity with some subtle citrus notes on the finish. A good value equation, it merits an extra half star. (Susan Desjardins)


Cave de Lugny ‘Crémant de Bourgogne’ 2007
AOC Burgundy $17.95 (183764) 12.0% alcohol
Bright and golden, this wine is produced from the hand-picked fruit of 30-year-old vines. There’s a great rush of fine frothy fizz in the glass, with some enticing aromas of toast, nuts and tangy citrus. Dry and equally frothy on the palate, this is a crisp sparkler with mouthwatering flavours of lemon-lime, green tea and toast. Tasty and refreshing, it’s a great wine to offer your guests to whet their appetite for the holiday turkey. Well priced with a moderate level of alcohol. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (322016) 13.0% alcohol
A gorgeous light gold, aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and floral notes abound. It’s racy and refreshing throughout with laser-sharp flavours of lemon-lime, pineapple, ripe melon and peach. Dancing lightly on the palate with a good mouth feel, it finishes in a blaze of glory—lemony, racy and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)


Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (578625) 11.6% alcohol
Pale gold, displaying the world-class quality of Niagara Rieslings, this wine has evocative floral and stone fruit aromas with a classic, mineral note. Medium bodied, dry yet silky smooth, the aromas replay on the palate, complemented by crisp acidity. Tangy and refreshing on the finish, it’s a great match for all manner of fish, veal or chicken, now or in the next 3-5 years. And according to the website, it’s sold out, so get to your local LCBO Vintages promptly! (Susan Desjardins)


Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.95 (558288) 9.0% alcohol
Sensuous and sexy, alluring aromas of honeyed pear, warm peach pie and racy lemon tart abound. On the palate, there’s a dazzling array of succulent, ripe tropical fruit and honeyed pear and apple flavours that are perfectly balanced with a moderating stream of lemon and grapefruit tang. Of course, it’s divine sipped on its own or with desserts like bread pudding or crème brûlée. How about duck? Here’s a link with many recipes to pair with icewine. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus White 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.20 (660704) 13.5% alcohol
Floral, mineral and spice box on the nose, this blend washes the palate with waves of balanced and focused lemon, ripe pineapple and juicy white peach. It’s medium bodied and silky smooth with a lengthy, refreshing finish. Winemaker J-L Groulx takes blending to a high art form crafting this to total more than the sum of its parts. Sip on its own or pour with all manner of pan-seared white fish. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan, B.C.: White Wine

Mission Hill ‘SLC’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (144170) 13.5% alcohol
Beautiful aromas of ripe tropical fruit, sweet vanilla roll off this mid-full-weight, deftly balanced, lip-smacking gem. Flavours abound with waves of ripe pineapple, poached pear and baked, spiced apple to the fore. There’s a silky smooth texture followed by a lingering, mouth-watering crisp and clean finish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol
If you can’t get enough of the 2007 vintage, here’s a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 3-5 years. This appealing blend has complex and captivating aromas—roasted herbs, tobacco leaf and hints of vanilla mingle with red and black berry fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, with a firm structure, grippy tannins and tangy acidity, the berry flavours replay on the palate and carry through on the finish, garnished with notes of cocoa and toast. An ideal match for beef tenderloin with a tarragon mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Malivoire ‘Guilty Men’ Cabernet/Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (186247) 13.5% alcohol
Wow! This is rich, luscious and flavour-packed with lifted aromas of mixed spice, dark, field berry fruit, cigar box and toasty notes showing the way. Palate-coating, sweet, ripe flavours are persistent through the balanced aftertaste—succulent mulberry, ripe boysenberry and a generous dollop of pie cherry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and fruit forward. Give it a go with potato rosti and spicy gourmet sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

La Crema ‘Russian River’ Chardonnay 2008
Russian River Valley, Sonoma $39.95 (067231) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and concentrated from the get-go, aromas bound from the glass with toasty notes, sweet vanilla and spiced apple among them. The palate’s treated to a wash of flavour with poached pear, crisp green apple and grilled sweet pineapple persisting through the flavoured finish. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy mouth feel offering good value. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $51.95 (718452) 14.1% alcohol
A serious wine for classic Cabernet lovers, aromas of cigar box, spicy vanilla, cassis and a hint of licorice waft from the glass. Dry, structured and bursting with spicy dark berry flavour, the wine has fine acidity and ripe tannins which will support further cellaring. Lovely, balanced, with a lingering trace of dark chocolate on the persistent fruity finish, it is a perfect match for your choice of red meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Delicato ‘First Press’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $19.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol
Vic and I thought this offered great value. Another ‘Wine of the Month’ winner, this is fruit-forward, nicely structured and will benefit from a further two years in the cellar. A dense red, this award-winner compels with aromas of cassis, mint, cedar and vanilla. Intensely fruity, the spicy black berry flavours are complemented with appropriate acidity and firm tannins. Well crafted and balanced, it delivers a warm toasty fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
Russian River Valley, Northern Sonoma $22.95 (091025) 13.5% alcohol
From the fog-shrouded, long-ripening Russian River Valley where Pinot reigns supreme, aromas of mineral, spice and earthy tones mingle with blue and black berry fruit. Cold soaked and partially, whole berry fermented, this delivers a complex and assertive river of flavour with strawberry, red currant and bramble berry mingling with aromatic bitters and spiced black plum. It’s well structured with good mouth feel and savoury herb notes on the finish. Decant two hours and pour with glazed, baked ham. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Brooks Pinot Noir 2009
Willamette Valley $28.95 (182949) 14.3% alcohol
From an organic and biodynamic producer, this semi-transparent wine offers some complex aromas of red cherry, strawberry and earthy vegetal notes. Dry, medium bodied and supple, red cherry and spice predominate on the palate carried along by a stream of lively acidity. The underlying earthiness lingers on the refreshing finish of this elegant Pinot. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

McKinley Springs Syrah 2006
Horse Heaven Hills $27.95 (199794) 14.9% alcohol
Blockbuster, ripe, succulent, sweet and jammy, this fruit-forward Syrah tastes more Barossa than Washington. Aromas and flavours of black currant, mulberry and kirsch liqueur run wild bolstered by good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured with a rich, fruity finish that simply doesn’t; it goes on and on. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Bodegas Callia ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Grand Callia 2006
San Juan $34.95 (175661) 14.0% alcohol
Crafted from a blend of Shiraz, Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, this is a compelling wine of depth and intensity. Pure aromas of tangy black fruit are garnished with notes of vanilla and licorice. Dry, full bodied and structured, fine acidity and firm tannins underpin dark berry flavours. Notes of cocoa and toast persist on the dry and flavourful finish. Savour now with robust meat dishes or over the next 7-10 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Luigi Bosca ‘Finca Los Nobles’ Cabernet - Bouchet 2005
Argentina $64.95 (175547) 15.1% alcohol
This red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Cabernet Franc a.k.a. Bouchet—is heady and highly perfumed with a beckoning bouquet of red licorice, graphite, cherry/berry fruit and exotic spices and herbs. Rich, complex and concentrated flavours explode on the palate with black currant, cassis and dark chocolate prominent. It’s full bodied, generously textured sporting a bold and monumentally lengthy, fruity finish. It’s good to go now paired with weighty cuisine; try with osso bucco or cassoulet. There’s also plenty of life left in this five-year-old gem. (Vic Harradine)


Pascual Toso ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008
Barrancas Vineyards, Mendoza $19.95 (183897) 14.0% alcohol
The price-flavour-value equation works out in your favour; budget allowing, pick up a couple. This is luscious, complex and very well structured dishing up a palate-lining wash of black currant, spiced black plum and kirsch liqueur. Medium-full bodied and oozing charm and a silky smooth texture, the nicely balanced fruity finish is lengthy and luxurious. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (322586) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque with a violet note, this is a highly extracted wine with intense aromas and flavours of black fruit, spice, espresso roast and vanilla. Full bodied, dry and structured, it has firm tannins and fine acidity to match the depth and focus of the fruit. Dark toasty notes linger on the persistent finish. Enjoy it now with beef short ribs or cellar for 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Petit Verdot 2008
Rapel Valley $14.95 (007484) 14.5% alcohol
Not for the faint of heart, this is a tooth-staining deeply opaque wine (15% Syrah) that demands your attention with dark berry, plum and spicy floral aromas and a mouthful of spicy dark berry flavours. Drying tannins frame the fruit, while complementary acidity carries dark chocolate and espresso notes through the finish. Intense . . . it will match roasted veggies or charbroiled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (039537) 14.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 16, 2010 @ $39.95) Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this hustles from the glass with forward aromas of spice cake, tar, fennel and black currant. Succulent flavours abound with dark juicy cherry, cassis, mocha and spice-infused black berry to the fore. It’s deftly balanced, mid weight and fully textured with a lingering dry finish of bittersweet chocolate, berry fruit and a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with marinated rare-grilled flank steak. Optimum drinking window is now to 2019. This is another tour de force by winemaker extraordinaire, Stuart Bourne. (Vic Harradine)


Jim Barry ‘The McRae Wood’ Shiraz 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $54.95 (737817) 15.5% alcohol
A winecurrent perennial favourite, this vintage doesn’t disappoint. Black licorice, all spice, sweet vanilla and toasty notes overlay hints of dark berry fruit on the nose. There’s good purity of fruit with sense of purpose on the palate showcasing a persistent, balanced stream of complex, concentrated flavour—succulent, ripe mulberry, tarry bramble berry and black licorice-infused black plum throughout. It’s full-bodied with a very generous texture and the ability to age—optimum drinking now to at least 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Rolf Binder ‘Hales’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley $19.95 (054239) 14.0% alcohol
Brooding dark berry fruit, spicy floral notes, pepper and a whiff of smoky cedar entice. Medium-full bodied and dry, this wine is intensely fruity with round tannins, fresh acidity and a replay of the sweet spice and pepper. The lengthy finish maintains the fruity intensity and offers some echoes of dark toast. Enjoy over the next 5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of mixed field berry, exotic spice and earthy tones provide a delightful segue for this sweet and savory, medium-bodied, nicely textured Pinot. Black currant, succulent cherry and spice-infused flavours of black plum wash over the palate in gentle waves. This is very smooth and silky throughout, setting it up for a delightful pairing with herb-crusted, pan-seared salmon or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2009
Western Cape $14.95 (675421) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a great find for those who enjoy a straightforward light-medium bodied wine with lively flavours. Delicate aromatics—light citrus, floral, ripe stone fruit and a hint of wet wool—herald bright lemon-lime and kitchen spice notes on the palate. Vibrant and flavourful, with a surprisingly persistent finish, this is a wine that’s easy to enjoy and a fine value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Martin Steimer Pinot Gris 2009
AOC Alsace $16.95 (106807) 13.5% alcohol
Just off-dry, this medium-bodied wine has very appealing aromatics and flavours. There’s a floral note, lemon pie, as well as ripe stone fruit and pear, all balanced by soft round acidity. It’s easy to drink with a lengthy fruity finish lifted by a dash of white pepper. Great on its own, it would be an ideal wine with roast pork. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château de Mirande Mâcon-Villages 2009
AOC Mâcon-Villages $17.95 (183749) 13.0% alcohol
This is just a lovely Burgundy that would be a fine match with turkey dinner. It pours in a generous dense stream, glowing golden in the glass. Fragrant aromas of yellow plum, pear, vanilla and light toast waft from the glass. On the palate, it’s dry yet luscious and round with flavours of stone fruit, toast and vanilla riding on a fresh backbone of citrusy acidity. Flavourful and persistent on the finish, it’s fine value. (Susan Desjardins)


Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru 1999
AOC Beaune $26.95 (641308) 13.5% alcohol
Brick notes herald the age of this delicately fragrant dame. Notes of earth, red berries and a hint of truffle replay on the graceful palate. Soft tannins and fine acidity match perfectly to the attractive berry fruit and autumnal notes that carry through on the lingering finish. This is an absolute steal—run, don’t walk to get some. Savour a glass before the meal, and then enjoy it with roast duck with a cherry glaze. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2008
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 750 mL, $46.95 (968750) 375 mL 14.5% alcohol
Unless you’re familiar with the pre-eminent Perrin family and their impeccably produced wine, you’ll have trouble understanding the price-quality ratio is skewed in your favour, but it is. Rich, complex and well structured, aromas and flavours of currants, smoky bacon and chocolate introduce mouth-coating flavours—bittersweet chocolate, dark field berry, earthiness—that persist on the lengthy, balanced aftertaste. It’s slightly chewy and full bodied. (Vic Harradine)


E. Guigal Gigondas 2006
AOC Gigondas $27.95 (331900) 14.0% alcohol
An iconic beautifully balanced wine, this blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah was aged 2 years in French oak and has a subtle nose reminiscent of spiced berry pie and black licorice. Full bodied and round, it has a silky texture with a fine underlying structure. Tangy dark berry fruit replays on the palate garnished with notes of pepper and light toast. It’s wonderfully flavourful and smooth through the extended finish. A vin de garde that will grace your cellar for a decade or more. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Croze de Pys ‘Prestige’ Malbec Cahors 2007
AOC Cahors $15.95 (681668) 13.0% alcohol
From the home of Malbec comes this dense powerfully aromatic exemplar bursting with sweet dark fruit, spice, toast and vanilla. It has quite reasonable structure with an adequate level of acidity to balance the intense fruitiness. Dry, grippy tannins linger on the finish, along with nuances of cocoa and dark toast. Nicely priced and enjoyable. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Terra d’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616) 14.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 29, 2010 @ $15.95) Concentrated and opaque with deep red hues, this is a richly aromatic wine with notes of licorice, ripe fruits and smoky oak. The full dark fruity flavors combine with silky slightly drying tannins and moderate acidity to produce a beautifully balanced wine with enduring impact. It has a long dazzling finish with lovely notes of sweet spice and rich caramel. A great wine to serve with hard cheese or beef Florentine. (Susan Desjardins)


Ascheri ‘Fontanelle’ Barbera d’Alba 2008
DOC Alba $16.95 (982462) 14.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 20, 2010 @ $17.95) Aged in Slavonian oak for 9 months, this is a semi-transparent red with great flavours of plum, ripe berries and sweet caramel. It’s medium bodied with fine tannin, energetic acidity and appealing flavors of bramble berry and black berry. It’s nicely structured with a persistent and engaging finish. Well made and attractively priced, consider a bottle with slow-roasted pork shoulder plus one or two for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Travaglini Gattinara 2004
DOCG Gattinara $29.95 (713354) 13.5% alcohol
With a mahogany inflection and alluring aromas of tangy red berry, tobacco and truffle, this exquisite heralded wine invites you to sip and savour. Medium bodied and dry, the texture is silky with soft tannins and fresh acidity framing the attractive berry fruit. Deftly crafted and elegant, it has a fine dry tasty finish. This is another candidate for cellaring a further 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Antinori ‘Guado Al Tasso’ 2007
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $89.95 (986380) 14.0% alcohol
A top wine of the release, this super Tuscan is an artisanal gem—hand picked into small crates and hand sorted, fermented in small lots, aged 24 months in new French barrique with only the best chosen for this assemblage—57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Inky, almost opaque, it unleashes a rush of rich, dense fruit on the palate—boysenberry, spiced bramble berry and juicy, black Bing cherry. It’s full bodied, well textured with a complex, long aftertaste laced with good acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. Drink 2014 to 20120. (Vic Harradine)


Barone Ricásoli ‘Rocca Guicciarda’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (943613) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 23, 2010 @ $24.95) Intensely coloured and expressing rich aromas of plums, leather and spicy floral notes, this is a richly flavored and full-bodied beauty. The texture is soft and silky with flavours of dark berries and classic acidity. The tannins are fine and well integrated. This is an absolutely lovely wine with a long, elegant finish. A classic—stop reading, start driving, stock up. (Susan Desjardins)


Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2005
DOCG Montalcino $49.95 (650432) 14.0% alcohol
Savour the complex nose, displaying floral notes, lightly spiced berries, and hints of herbs and earth. Dry, structured and elegant, the wine is medium bodied with fresh vibrant spiced red berry fruit flowing across the palate on lively acidity and fine tannins. The finish is lengthy, refined and offers the tang of espresso. A beauty, drinking well now and a candidate for a further decade of cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Castello di Farnetella Lucilla 2007
IGT Toscana $18.95 (190033) 13.0% alcohol
A fine ruby tone, this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas of dark berry fruits, toast and an autumnal, slightly vegetal note. The palate displays some interesting complexity—black and blue berry fruit as well as an earthy, herbaceous quality. Ripe tannins and fine acidity complement the fruit. Medium bodied, the wine has a very consistent aroma profile from the first taste through the persistent dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Doga delle Clavule Morellino di Scansano 2008
DOCG Morellino di Scansano $16.95 (184986) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from a clone of Sangiovese, this deep ruby wine has rich ripe aromas of spicy red and black berries with a hint of red licorice. Dry, medium bodied, with a velvety texture and ripe tannins, it has a fresh stream of acidity and lovely nuances of toast and herbs. Berry rich on the finish, notes of toast linger. Soft and fruity enough to enjoy on its own, or serve it with herbed roast pork loin. (Susan Desjardins)


Luce Della Vite ‘Luce’ 2007
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 14.5% alcohol
Toasty, oaky and full of spice and nutty notes on the nose, it’s dark, brooding and luscious in the glass unleashing a torrent of rich, chewy fruit—pie cherry, black raspberry and black currant adorned by espresso roast and tarry notes. It’s nicely balanced, smooth on the palate and structured nicely with good acidity and ripe, sweet tannin. It’s good to go now after a two hour decant. It’s pricey, but not over-priced. (Vic Harradine)


Ornellaia ‘Le Volte’ 2008
IGT Toscana $28.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
This deeply colored blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese is fairly bursting from the glass with intense aromas of ripe dark berries, dried fruit and hints of leather. Dry, bright and fresh on the palate, it’s medium bodied and brings to mind the ripe tangy flavours of raspberry pie. Enjoy the lengthy dry mouthwatering finish, now with game or rare red meat, or allow it to mellow for a few more years. (Susan Desjardins)


Rignana Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (187971) 14.5% alcohol
Attractive aromas of sweet fruit, exotic spice and a hint of earth waft from the glass. Mid weight and appealingly textured, the wine invites further sampling with lively acidity, slightly grippy tannins and spice-infused red berry flavours—cherry and raspberry. Toasty notes persist on the extended dry finish. Very enjoyable and reasonably priced. (Susan Desjardins)


Ruffino ‘Modus’ 2006
IGT Toscana $28.95 (912956) 13.5% alcohol
Inky purple and chockful of roasted nuts, vanilla, charry notes and dark berry fruit aromas, this is one chunky, full-bodied red blend—Sangiovese, Cab Sauv and Merlot. The flavours—sweet cassis, black cherry and bramble berry—are wrapped firmly in tannin and moderated by balancing acidity. Drink 2012 to 2016 poured alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Bertani ‘Villa Arvedi’ Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $37.95 (013417) 15.0% alcohol
This is a beautifully crafted flavour-packed Amorone with lifted aromas of mixed berry fruit and nuances of savoury herb and spice. There’s a lovely wash on the palate with complexity and structure showcasing cherry cordial, fig and currants mingling with Christmas cake spice. Look for that classis bite on the dry, delectable aftertaste. There’s perceptible tannin that’ll be tamed with a three-hour decant or three more years of ageing. (Vic Harradine)


Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $34.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
Well paced, well priced and well.... simply delicious. Exotic aromas of aromatic bitters, spice box and tarry notes provide a delightful segue to this flavour-packed gem. Complex flavours arrive in waves—black currant jam, dark raisin and bitter-sweet chocolate galore. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky mouth feel and ready go now, drinking well on its own after dinner. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella $38.95 (183780) 1500 mL 13.0% alcohol
Charry notes mingle with dark toast and fennel on the nose of this magnum while the palate’s treated to sweet, ripe berry fruit—black currant, raspberry and blueberry. Mid weight with a racy savoury, herb-infused finish, it’ll move up a notch poured with dishes featuring a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta De Ventozelo Touriga Nacional 2007
DOC Douro $18.95 (657452) 14.0% alcohol
This winery spent a fortune modernizing their plant and equipment. Coupled with old-vine, premium ‘Port’ grapes planted on prime sites, you’ve got a name worth following. Raisin, roasted herbs and dark berry fruit on the nose, there’s a tsunami of rich, concentrated flavour—bramble berry pie, black currant and spice-infused plum compote. It’s full bodied and generously textured, turning racy and gamy on the rustic, tannic finish. Drink 2014 to 2019. Great value for those with patience. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Juan Gil ‘Silver Label’ 2007
DO Jumilla $21.95 (001677) 15.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas abound with oodles of rich, lustrous milk chocolate followed by cherries laced with mint and sprigs of spice. The medium-bodied, complex, concentrated flavours—black currant, truffles and unmistakable dark chocolate—go for a ride on a satin-smooth texture. The lengthy aftertaste is balanced and fruity—what’s not to like? The price-quality ratio skews in your favour—pick up a couple. (Vic Harradine)


Julián Chivite ‘Gran Feudo Viñas Viejas Reserva’ 2005
DO Navarra $19.95 (948067) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked grapes from vineyards planted between 1940 and 1960, this is a value-laden blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is loaded with aromas and flavours of red berry and pit fruit, spice box and vanilla. With velvety tannins and tangy, fruity acidity, it has great balance and a lengthy persistent finish. A treat for the price, it gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Las Rocas Garnacha 2008
DO Calatayud $14.95 (095190) 14.1% alcohol
Displaying the violet notes of its youth and some appealingly fragrant floral, spice toast and berry aromas, this is an easy drinking medium-bodied wine with a soft texture and moderate acidity. It’s loaded with berry fruit and hints of mint and toast. The finish is pleasantly dry yet fruity. The value equation is definitely in your favour. Pick up a few bottles for informal holiday gatherings. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 11, 2010

Clos du Bois Zinfandel 2008
North Coast, California $18.95 (38000) 13.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Zin dishes up a racy, herb-driven wash of flavour with good balance and a lengthy aftertaste. Aromas of sweet berry fruit and savoury herbs dominate the nose providing a smooth segue to focused flavours of savory red cherry and racy red currant. Poured perfectly with meat-laden, spicy pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: November 27, 2010

The Show Cabernet 2007
California $17.95 (140715) 13.9% alcohol
This is a kick-ass blend that bolts from the glass with rip-roaring aromas of toast, dark berry fruit and spice. It hits full stride on the palate with rich, luscious and balanced flavours—black currant, mint-infused cherry and dollops of chocolate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with good pace throughout. The tail end is lingering, fruity and lip-smacking good—leaving you champing at the bit for more. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 22, 2011

Blackstone ‘Winemaker’s Select’ Merlot 2008
California $15.95 (606327) 13.5% alcohol
Inky, almost opaque, rich and luscious, this will bowl you over with its deft balance and concentrated fruit flavours. Delectable aromas and flavours—black plum, dark, ripe cherry and spicy pomegranate—are consistent throughout gliding along on a bed of ripe tannin and wonderful moderating tang. It’s structured, medium bodied with a lengthy finish. This punches well above the price with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: February 19, 2011

Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 375 mL (210757) 11.5% alcohol
Wow, this is one perfumed, succulent and refreshing mouthful of spiced red fruit with tangy raspberry, lively strawberry and pie cherry to the fore. The ripe, sweet fruit and moderating raciness is balanced on a pin and persistent throughout, finishing mouth-watering, crisp and refreshing. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour easily serving 4 as a special, after-dinner treat. (Vic Harradine)


Liberty School Chardonnay 2007
Central Coast, California $17.95 (900120) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty notes, vanilla and alluring tropical fruit aromas abound on the nose of this mid weight and very generously textured beauty. Ripe citrus, persimmon and green apple flavours persist throughout while the moderating acidity provides a clean and lip-smacking finish. Seamlessly integrated oak, luscious fruit and deft balance coalesce in this value-packed offering. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: May 2011

Riverview Cellars ‘Salvatore’s Reserve’ Cabernet 2008
VQA Niagara River $20.95 12.8% alcohol
This is special, don’t miss out—the price quality balance tips well in your favour. Tantalizing aromas—vanilla, dark berry fruit and spice—presage a delectable array of complex, ripe, succulent flavour with ripe, black, Bing cherry, juicy mulberry and hints of mint to the fore. It’s 2/3 Cab Franc and 1/3 Cab Sauvignon with 12 months in American oak. Full-bodied with a silky smooth texture, it’s perfectly balanced with a lingering aftertaste showcasing fine-grained sweet tannin and more delicious fruit. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Inniskillin Icewine Vidal 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (551085) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Almost twenty years ago Canada burst onto the world wine stage with a 1989 vintage of this wine. Taste this to learn why as this 2007 vintage has also earned its share of gold medals and accolades. It’s rich, silky textured and unctuous brimming with concentrated, luscious flavour—sweet mango, ripe apricot, luscious yellow peach. On the finish it’s refreshing, leaving you looking for another sip… or three. Click here [PDF file] for icewine and cheese suggestions. This Vintages Essentials wine is always available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Aligoté 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (284950) 12.0% alcohol
For many, this is an undiscovered grape varietal—time to discover it! Tantalizing aromas jump from the glass with mineral notes and ripe Bosc pear. Expressing itself on the palate with tree fruit – Granny Smith apple, pear and citrus—there’s a persistent stream of crisp refreshing flavour through the lengthy well-balanced finish. Medium bodied and nicely textured, there’s a surge of nervy citrus on the aftertaste that’s looking for a cuisine match. Had mine with steamed mussels and it was divine. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2008
VQA St. David’s Bench $14.95 (582353) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe dark fruit and toast notes on the nose, the balanced flavour washes in waves—sweet, ripe mulberry and red cherry mingling with rich and luscious hints of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length savory aftertaste. Winery owner and patriarch, Paul-Michel Bosc, propagated this clone from one found in his vineyard—Canada’s first vinifera vine. Sips lovely on its own and pairs well with roast chicken, root veggies and savory stuffing. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Lafage ‘Côté Est’ 2009
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $12.95 (179838) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, exotic aromas beguile with floral notes, orchard fruit and hints of honeysuckle wafting from this Southern-France blend. Balanced, crisp and refreshing flavour washes over the palate—lemon-lime, white grapefruit and pineapple. It’s light-medium bodied with a nice mouth feel and a racy, refreshing aftertaste. Perfectly paired with pan-seared white fish. A generous donation is made to the Seltzer-Chan Pond Inlet Foundation from sales of this and other wines from John Hanna and Sons wine agency. (Vic Harradine)


the Little Penguin Chardonnay 2009
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (598904) 13.0% alcohol
Attractive aromas here—sweet pineapple, floral and tropical fruit—followed by a persistent wash of sweet, fruit flavour—apple, yellow plum and pear –mingling with a lovely spine of ripe citrus and the barest wisp of oak. This is mid weight with a generous mouth feel and a clean, fruity aftertaste. It’s good value and pairs well with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)


the Little Penguin Merlot 2009
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (598912) 13.5% alcohol
You can’t go wrong with this well-priced crowd-pleasing, easy-drinking wine! The profile is consistent with aromas and flavours of dark cherry/berry, vanilla and spicy toast. Dry yet fruity, it’s nicely balanced with soft tannins and sufficient acidity to balance the ripe fruit flavours. There’s a hint of cocoa and toast on the mid-length finish. Drink now on its own or with pizza from a wood-burning oven or grilled burgers. (Susan Desjardins)


the Little Penguin Shiraz 2009
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (621870) 13.5% alcohol
This brims with aromas and flavours delivering terrific value and mouthfuls of juicy, red wine. Black pepper, spice and dark, ripe, berry fruit on the nose, these replay on the palate with spice-infused black currant and dark succulent cherry. It’s medium bodied with a silky smooth texture and lingering aftertaste that’s laced with dark chocolate and hints of licorice. (Vic Harradine)


Lighthouse Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Ontario $11.95 (1454441) 13.0% alcohol
Herbal, dill and green pepper on the nose, it delivers a pretty nice wash of sweet ripe cherry/berry flavour on the palate with good moderating acidity in the background providing balance and a crisp, refreshing finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and weighs in at a good price point. Perfect with burgers or spicy sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Lighthouse Riesling 2009
VQA Ontario $11.95 (145417) 12.5% alcohol
Subtly fragrant on the nose, this light-medium-bodied wine displays floral aromas along with ripe, orchard fruit and lively citrus. It’s nicely balanced with a backbone of fresh acidity and attractive flavours of stone fruit with a splash of lemon-lime. There’s an underlying note of minerality on the citrus finish. A lovely sipper, or enjoy with pan-fried sole with a squeeze of lemon. (Susan Desjardins)


Mirassou Winery Pinot Noir 2008
California $12.95 (185249) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, hints of earthiness and ripe red berry aromas abound on this mid-weight, silky-smooth, savoury Pinot. Flavours of red cherry, pomegranate and strawberry mingle with hints of spice and savoury herb. It’s all fruit and spice on the dry, balanced, lip-smacking aftertaste. Sips well on its own and pairs beautifully with Chicken in Tomato and Olive Braise—find recipe here. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Hidden Bench - Estate fruit, hand picked, hand sorted, gently whole bunch pressed coupled with sustainable agriculture and low-yield practices coalesce with the passion of owner/vigneron Harald Thiel to produce premium and ultra-premium wine, especially Chardonnay, with a definite sense of place. Terroir-driven and artisanal, their wine is out of the ordinary. There’s an exciting 3-day, cool-climate Chardonnay event being held in Niagara next July… Read more


Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $32.20 13.1% alcohol
Meticulous fruit handling—hand picked and sorted, whole-bunch pressed, barrel fermented with lees stirring and French-oak-aged 10 months—coalesce with low yields from three, prime vineyard sites and the cool-climate-Chardonnay passion of owner/vigneron Harald Thiel to fashion this well-structured, flavourful gem. Citrus, toasty notes and hints of spice on the nose, there are waves of tropical fruit, apple and citrus that persist through the crisp and refreshing, lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied and generously textured showcasing premium, cool-climate Chardonnay with adornments of elegance and complexity. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $38.20 12.5% alcohol
Complex and perfumed on the nose, aromas of berry fruit and spice-infused cherry abound. Unfined, unfiltered, moved only by gravity and brimming with flavour—wild field berry, cranberry and pomegranate—this is deftly balanced and lip-smacking delicious. The long finish is dry and racy with an underpinning of ripe, supple tannin. Decant for three hours if drinking now, or cellar and open 2014 to 2019. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench ‘La Brunante’ 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $85.20 14.3% alcohol
Made only in best vintages, this rich and concentrated flagship, Bordeaux blend—53% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 11% Cabernet France—rips from the glass with bold aromas and complex, beautifully structured flavour. Aromas of dark, spiced berry fruit and notes of mineral provide segue to a balanced and delectable wash of ripe, succulent black cherry, black currant and nuances of mocha. It’s full-bodied and generously textured showcasing the fabulous ’07 red wine vintage to perfection. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

Pillitteri Estates Winery - The ‘Exclamation’ series denotes flagship, top drawer and extra special. These ultra-premium wines are packaged in a stunning bottle with a silver-coloured, thick medallion on the front (or is it the back?) depicting a series of stainless-steel chairs commissioned by winery founders Gary and Lena Pillitteri. The chairs represent and tell a fascinating story of the Pillitteri family. The back label (or is it the front?) lists the grape and technical information of the wine. Front or back, it’s what’s inside that matters and these wines are every bit as stunning as the packaging. For now, available only at the winery and they won’t last long.


Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Cabernet Franc ‘Reserve’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.20 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, exotic and highly perfumed aromas—charry toast, black olives, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate percolate freely from this tangy, tannic behemoth. Full bodied and full of savory herb and spice, there’s a steady wash of red currant, savoury rhubarb and racy pie cherry. It’s generously textured with good fruit on the dry aftertaste that’s still firmly wrapped in grainy tannin. Drink 2015 to 2020 alongside grilled, smoked back ribs slathered in spicy, hot BBQ sauce. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Reserve’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $38.20 13.5% alcohol
Dark, dusky, alluring aromas—charred toast, notes of savoury herb and aromatic bitters—waft from this complex, beautifully textured, full-bodied gem. It’s tangy on entry then coats the palate and lengthy aftertaste with succulent, ripe berry fruit. Not for sissies, it’s powerfully structured with an abundance of fruit, acidity and solid tannin underpinning. Drink 2014 to 2020 after careful cellaring. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

Riverview Cellars Winery - It’s difficult to keep up with the 100+ wineries in Niagara, but here’s a family-owned concern —Pillitteri family, closely related to the winery above—you’ll want to make note of. As you’ll see below they’re making quality wine that’s fairly priced and shipping free to home or office with a liberal, mixed-case policy. Vinified from primarily estate-grown fruit, the CCOVI-trained winemaker, Angela Kasimos, is fashioning award-winning wine showcasing balance, versatility with food and a strong aromatic profile.


Riverview Cellars ‘Angelina’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $19.95 12.8% alcohol
Alluring, exotic and highly perfumed, beckoning aromas of honeyed pear, leesy citrus and toast abound. Citrus, crisp, green apple and tangy white grapefruit are predominant throughout. It’s mid weight, generously textured with a lip-smacking refreshing aftertaste. This is rock-solid 4 stars ratcheting up a notch poured alongside seafood like calamari rings or steamed mussels. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara River $24.95 12.8% alcohol
Pale ruby, this is a Burgundian-style wine with lovely aromas of sweet red fruit, spice and earth. Light-medium bodied and dry, it’s characterized by vibrant nervy acidity, moderate tannins, notes of white pepper and bright, red cherry/berry flavours—red cherry, raspberry and cranberry to the fore. Lengthy on the finish, the slight peppery note and the vital fruit flavours persist. Versatile with food, it’s a good match with pork in red wine sauce, or cellar for 2-3 years. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)


Riverview Cellars Riesling Ice Wine 2009
VQA Niagara River $54.95 11.9% (375 ml) alcohol
Brilliant gold, alluring and seductive, this is an absolutely delicious icewine! Enticing, lifted aromas of lemon-grass, crème brulée, pineapple, marmalade and a whiff of petrol drift from the glass. The texture is luscious yet refined—sweet, ripe fruit balanced with subtle, refreshing acidity. The balance is outstanding and the finish, reminiscent of lemon marmalade, goes on forever. Enjoy on its own or pair with strong cheese or foie gras. You’ll want to cellar a bottle or two to enjoy over the next 10 years. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)

Stratus – Their winemaker, J-L Groulx, is a master of assemblage—blending wines to bring out not only the best in each, but coaxing synergy from them. Stratus was the world's first winery to earn LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Canada certification; think of LEED certification as much tougher than simply ‘organic’ as it includes the buildings as well as the land. As a winery, they’ve taken sustainability and resources invested in design, equipment, technology and winemaking techniques to Stratus-pheric heights. The results are impressive—quality wine in each price bracket.


Stratus Icewine Red 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (56689) 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
This blend is divine; racy, red fruit flavours—strawberry, raspberry and spice-infused plum—ride on a bed of moderating acidity showcasing a glorious mouthful of icewine. It’s generously textured, far from cloying, and layers on delectable notes of cranberry and ripe, juicy pomegranate on the lingering aftertaste. A treat on its own, it pairs well with red fruit flan—the perfect size for gifting or romantic tête è tête. Free delivery to home or office for cases of 6 bottles or more from Stratus. (Vic Harradine)


Stratus Icewine Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (56671) 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of orange, lemon-peel marmalade and key lime abound dishing up a huge mouthful of mouth-watering nectar. This is balanced, well structured and simply delicious… every sip. The purity of fruit on the palate—mango, orange and candied white peach—glides effortlessly through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Perfect for sipping on its own or alongside tarte tatin, pear or lemon fruit flan. Free delivery to home or office for cases of 6 bottles or more from Stratus. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan