Cakebread Chardonnay 2003
Napa Valley $31.95 (655795)

Intense vanilla, bread dough and tropical fruit aromatics burst from the glass. It is full bodied and fleshy in the mouth and well balanced with good acidity. Meticulous practices include: hand picked then whole clustered ripe fruit from various Napa regions, was basket pressed then 80% fermented in French oak (balance in stainless steel). It then underwent partial malolactic before being aged sur lie (on the dead yeast cells) for 8 months before bottling last June. Won't find a better California Chard at this price point. (VH)



Christian Moueix "Dominus" 2001
Napa Vally $109.95 (703850)

A stunning Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend from a man better known as Monsieur Merlot. He's the owner of Château Petrus, that quite well-known Merlot from Pomerol. "Dominus" is his New World success, and it's become a cliché to say that it combines California power with Bordeaux restraint. But that's the way the 2001 comes off, with brooding dark fruit and berries, accented by earthiness, coffee, licorice, and dried herbs. It has lowish acidity, ripe, supple tannins, and a long finish. It's just ready to drink, but to do it justice, let it gather dust for ten years. (RP)


Qupé "Bien Nacido Hillside Estate" Syrah 2001
Santa Maria Valley $58.95 (655860)

A quite lovely Syrah with intense fruit (cherry dominant) and spice, pepper and licorice notes. The tannins are chalky and very gripping, and I'd put this down for at least five years to let them soften and give the fruit a bit more room on the stage. (RP)



Domaine Laroche Chablis 'Saint-Martin' 2003
AOC Burgundy $24.95 (365023)

An atypical Chablis with a fuller mouth feel than many, yet still retaining the characteristics (steely, clean and zesty) that make Chablis such a great mollusk wine. A subdued floral nose opens up on the palate with stone fruit, mineral and citrus flavours that carry over seamlessly to the lengthy finish. Raw oysters drizzled with fresh lemon would match perfectly. (VH)


Joseph Drouhin Saint-Romain Blanc 2002
AOC Burgundy $27.95 (590174)

Toast and oak drift from the glass of this well balanced white from one of Burgundy's more affordable sub regions. The beautiful texture is augmented by peach and pear flavours and an incredibly long and luxurious finish - one of the hallmarks of well made wine. This has enough oomph, acidity and structure to pair with grilled sword fish steaks or white meat dishes. (VH)


Chéreau-Carré 'Le Fleuron' Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine 2003
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine $13.95 (653493)

Typical nose from this region with mineral tones, toasty brioche and baking bread - from the sur lie treatment - aromatics. Dead yeast cell aromas may sound not like something to aspire to, but they certainly define these wines and are surprisingly quite pleasant. This one has more texture than most, delivering a medium to full bodied wine of intense flavours (ripe peaches and zesty lime) and a clean laser-like finish. Great value in a summer sipping wine or can be paired with soft cheeses, especially chèvre, or grilled fish and other seafood. (VH)



Cave des Vignerons de Gigondas 'Le Brut du Foudre 56' Gigondas 1999
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (987404)

This is a huge wine to come from such a small town. Many cooperatives produce fine wine and this is another to add to the list. The fragrant nose is chocolate, tar and red berries while the palate is a fruit bomb of black cherries, spice and cassis. The tannins are quite gripping and this requires another 2 or 3 years in the cellar. This is a gutsy red that needs rare grilled steak to tame it, if you dare to drink now. Try in 2008 and drink, comfortably, until 2012. (VH)


Château Bouscassé 2000
AOC Madiran $42.95 (677294)

An opaque inky wine from the region that showcases the Tannat grape like no other. This vintage is 60 % Tannat, 30 % Cabernet Franc, 10 % Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromatics are involved and display mocha, tar, black licorice, capsicum and spice notes. The flavours are black cherries and assorted ripe berry fruit with perceptible and edgy tannins. Drink now, with red grilled meats that are generously herbed and spiced, or cellar until 2009. (VH)



Bollinger 'Special Cuvée' Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $69.95 (384529)

This straw-coloured bubbly has a divine nose of green apples, buttered toast and lemon zest. The attack is sensational and the residual texture is all Bollinger: rich, beautifully textured and clean. The lengthy finish is glorious. This wine would be a match made in heaven for sweetbreads in a champagne sauce. Worth every penny, this wine for a special person, like you. (VH)



Geschwister Simon Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $13.95 (919449)

A fragrant nose of green tea, limes and flowers leads to an explosion of tangy tropical fruit that is nicely balanced with zesty and tangy acidity. Has one of those sweet and sour finishes that keeps bringing you back for more. An atypical Mosel at an atypically low price. Buy a few to drink now, more to cellar until 2010. A winecurrent.com exceptional value selection. (VH)



Ascheri Barbera d'Alba Fontanelle 2003
DOC Piedmont $18.95 (982462)

The nose is muted chanterelles and leather with ripe cherry notes. This medium-bodied northern Italian red offers up sour cherries and spiced plums on the palate, firm, but ripe tannins and a lengthy and fruit filled, almost juicy, finish. You can sense some oak and it may need a couple of years in the cellar for some tasters. Try it now, and over the next 5 years, with pasta a la Bolognaise. This is very good wine at a great price. (VH)


Bortoluzzi Merlot 2002
IGT Venezia Giulia $16.95 (653170)

This is a real stunner at an excellent price. When I tasted this for the first time I was taken aback by the pure and generous ripe fruit (plum and berry to the fore), and by the acidic balance. It has approachable tannins, and good finish, and it's a wonderful partner for rich red meats dishes of many kinds. (RP)


Antinori 'Pian Delle Vigne' Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Tuscany $61.95 (651141)

The King of Italian winemakers scores big on this Tuscan red, made from a specific clone of Sangiovese - Brunello (the little dark one). The low yields and unique limestone soils combine to forge this hugely textured and tannic beauty. Tar and earthy on the nose now, will develop into leather, licorice and chocolate, in time. The flavours are fruit forward and full of black, ripe berries. You can drink now or cellar until 2012, it will just keep evolving. A superb wine. (VH)


Frescobaldi Montesodi Chianti Rufina 2001
DOCG Tuscany $57.95 (304501)

As big as Chianti gets, this is a ripper. Full bodied and from pure Sangiovese fruit, the nose is spice, cassis and blueberries whilst the palate is highly textured, velvety and fleshy without being flabby. The juicy flavours include black cherries and red licorice and the finish is extremely well balanced and lengthy. Lots of tannin and acidity here for lengthy ageing. Drink 2009-2020. (VH)


Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2001
DOC Veneto $15.95 (999946)

A lighter styled Ripasso that is certainly not deeply coloured or heavily extracted, but still delivers great value in a softly textured red. From the floral and strawberry nose through to the clean fruity finish, the deft handling of this wine from vine to glass is apparent. Flavours are reminiscent of dried currants and Xmas cake spice. The price is right. (VH)



Tanail Massaya 'Selection' 2002
Bekaa Valley $13.95 (641688)

Never tried a wine from Lebanon? Try this one. The lifted nose of mint, cassis and red licorice blends into the broad palate of flavours including a sweet core of plums and fresh crushed strawberries. This medium bodied offering has a smooth finish of dried cranberries and spice. This is wine deserves better than to be categorized as a 'barbie' wine, so try with your favourite red meat, grilled or out of the oven. (VH)



Quinta da Garrida Touriga Nacional 2001
DOC Dao $23.95 (586735)

A gorgeous wine that could be labeled a California Cab wannabe. There is mint and cassis on the nose and all juicy black fruit in the heavily textured mouth feel. What Port must taste like without the residual sugar - spicy, full bore fruit with a lingering finish. This dry red cries out for Beef Wellington accompanied by a wild mushroom sauce. (VH)



Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 1997
DOC Rioja $28.95 (586701)

A delicious eight-year-old Rioja with well integrated fruit (plum, dried fruit, smoke, figs). The tannins are ripe and fine-grained, and the acidity is bright. The Vintages catalog notes that it has thrown some sediment and should be decanted. When you've done that, serve it with a grilled veal chop in a red wine reduction. (RP)


Viñas del Vero Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
DO Somontano $13.95 (499160)

The Somontano region is in northern Spain, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and it produces some wonderful red wines. This is an exceptionally well-priced Cabernet, with quite intense fruit, good complexity, and firm tannins. All together, it's well made and will make an excellent wine from summer barbecues, so buy an armful now. (RP)


Cune Reserva 2000
DOC Rioja $25.95 (652461)

It's five years old and has all the vibrancy of a much younger wine. Look for bright plum and red berry flavours accented with spicy notes, firm but approachable tannins, very good balance and a long finish. Pair it with a well-herbed grilled rack of lamb. (RP)



Domaine De Gourgazaud Viognier 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $14.95 (734533)

The fragrant aromatics hold no secrets as it blossoms forth with coriander, honeysuckle and lily of the valley floral notes. This medium-bodied white offers a beautifully textured mouthful of silky tropical fruit flavours, especially honeydew melon, and a lovely medium length finish of peaches and apricots. This wine is very good value and would pair well with a pork roast stuffed with dried fruits and onions. (VH)



Watch for these in forthcoming releases from Vintages



Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95

This is a lovely, flavourful Pinot Blanc with quite elegant aromas and flavours of apple and pear. Pinot Blanc is too often washed-out and monodimensional, but this one delivers good fruit character. The fruit is well focused, and the wine is well balanced with a clean, crisp finish. (RP)





The Little Penguin Merlot 2004
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (598912)

A muted, but involved nose of vanilla, mocha and floral notes that leads into mellow, round and smooth flavours of cherries and black ripe fruit. There are no rough edges to this ultra silky offering. It works well on its own and would be equally enjoyable with veal chops or chicken in a creamy pasta sauce. (VH)



Santa Rita "Reserva" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Casablanca Valley $12.95 (253872)

From one of Chile's cool climate regions near the Pacific Ocean, a stunning and great value Sauvignon Blanc with rich fruit flavours (gooseberry, passion fruit, grapefruit) and zesty acidity. It's just well made through and through, with fresh fruit, great balance and a long clean finish. Pair it with a goat cheese and wild mushroom tart. (RP)


Casillero del Diablo Syrah 2004
Central Valley $11.45 (568055)

Intense variations on dark cherry here: cherry cola, cherry pie, ripe black cherry. It's well accented with spice and some smokey notes. There's a lot of wine here for this price, and it partners well with barbecued red meats. (RP)


Santa Alicia "Reserve" Carmenère 2003
Maipo Valley $10.50 (309302)

Carmenère is Bordeaux's "lost grape" that turned up in Chile's vineyards. It was thought for ages to have been Merlot and the two grapes do have some affinities. But Carmenère typically has more spice and savoury flavours, and generally has more stuffing. This is a lighter style, but it offers lovely dark fruit flavours, spiciness and balance. It's a real bargain at this price, and worth buying for all manner of barbecued meats. I think Carmenère is generally better drunk fairly young, but you could put this away for another two or three years. (RP)



Lou Black Shiraz 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $11.95

The new vintage of this wine will be on the shelves late May-early June. Compared to the 2001 this has a slightly different profile, with more earthy notes, and quite intense, pure fruit and vibrant spicy notes. It's still the well-made, very good value wine that it started out as a year or two ago. This is a great choice for summer grills. (RP)



Fielding Estate Winery Cabernet Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35

This is made from estate-grown fruit at the new Fielding winery that will open its doors this summer. From the excellent 2002 growing season in Niagara, it's a 50:50 blend that had 18 months in French oak, and it's just stunning. The aromas are quite lovely: all dark fruit with loads of spicy, mint, and cedar complexity, and flavours and texture live up to the promise. It's full bodied, soft in the mouth, with plush, concentrated, ripe, dark fruit and the same range of complex notes. The tannins are firm, the balance is spot-on, and the finish lingers. When you think of wines of this quality from other world regions, it's a steal at $35. Order direct from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)


Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95

An attractive pale salmon-bronze colour outside the common pink zones, this has deceptively intense and complex flavours. I lingered over this one for quite a while, picking up the aromas and flavours of a basket of fresh summer fruit: cherries, strawberries, plums?. The screwcap seal (all Flat Rock wines are under screwcap) will ensure that freshness is preserved. This is a dry rosé that's well balanced and makes an excellent addition to your summer table. Try it with salads featuring duck or ham. Order directly from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com, and get the Flat Rock flat-rate of $9 per delivered order-whether it's a bottle or ten cases. (RP)


Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.95

Flat Rock Cellars is an impressive newcomer on the Niagara landscape. With a unique hexagon-shaped building, gravity-fed winemaking and meticulous attention to detail, it's a label to watch. This Pinot Noir has had a total of about 14 months' barrel aging. Look for well balanced, good full fruit (sweet and sour cherry on top) with notes of spice, pepper and earthiness. The tannins are quite big and grippy. It's drinking now (try it with rare lamb) or you can hold it up to five years. To order this, go to winecurrent.com and link to the winery. They have a very low flat rate delivery cost of $9 per order, no matter how small or large. (RP)



Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.00

Gorgeous mineral and citrus aromatics open the floodgates for the quintessential flavours and sensations (mouth watering acidity, a taste treat of pears and green apples) of well made Niagara Riesling. Sip on the patio with friends or pair with smoked salmon or grilled goat's cheese over any smoked fish. Order, in case lots, direct from the winery via www.laileyvineyard.com (VH)



Legends Estates Winery Chardonnay Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27

A classic Chardonnay in the southern Burgundian style. Expect quite elegant aromas of concentrated fruit, warm spice and a hint of vanilla, with a follow-through that replays the fruit. Elegant with a subtle touch of wood (it was barrel-fermented, then aged 10 months in all new barrels), this is a very well-made wine that will pair well with well-flavoured white meat dishes. Order this from the winery, using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)


Legends Estates Winery Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35

A plush-textured Cabernet Franc with a classic varietal nose: spicy red fruit, that pencil shavings thing, and the merest hint of green that lifts the aromas. The fruit is well-focused, the texture is silky, the balance is correct, the tannins are ripe, and the finish is long. In short, a great result from an excellent vintage in the region. Order this from Legends Estates using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)


Niagara College Teaching Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95

Using grapes grown on the Beamsville Bench and Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara College student wine-makers made this under the guidance of Jim Warren, one of Niagara's best-known wine-makers and an instructor at the College. Following last year's spectacular Sauvignon Blanc, this has quite intense fruit (gooseberry/passion fruit dominant) and clean, zesty acidity. With this quality, it's one of the best-value Sauvignon Blancs from the region-and there's impressive competition. (RP)


Niagara College Teaching Winery Pinot Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95

2003 was not the easiest of vintages, but this Pinot Noir came through very well. Look for fairly concentrated fruit (sweet and sour cherry to the fore) with spice and hints of oak (it was aged in 75% new barrels). The tannins are big and gripping right now, and this will drink well in two years and for the next six. (RP)


Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

Not exactly new, because it's been around for more than a year, but this is a second bottling. I loved it then, I love it now. It's a very big Merlot, chock full of ripe, dark fruit accented with pepper and spice, and a long spicy black fruit finish. Speaking of Niagara's excellent 2002 vintage, winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas says, "Everyone had the fruit, but I wanted to give it more structure, to work with the maturation and tannins." He succeeded. This was delicious with elk, and it will pair well with any rich, red meat dish. And it's excellent value. (RP)


Reif Vidal Icewine 2002 (375 ml)
VQA Niagara Peninsula $46.95 (544775)

This stunning wine opens with a lifted nose of orange-peel marmalade and an explosive mélange of ripe nectarine, peach and apricots. The mouthfeel is unctuous without being cloying and impression is sweet without being sickly. The finish is luxurious and long with just the right amount of acidity to hold it all together, beautifully. Try it chilled down with fresh fruit and crème anglais. Order a case via the Reif Winery link on the www.winecurrent.com site. (VH)


Ridgepoint Wines Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

One of a bunch of new labels in Niagara, Ridgepoint is making a range of wines that show great promise. This Merlot is deceptively subdued on the nose. There are hints of plum fruit and spice, but they don't prepare you for the big mouthful of dark fruit and spice/pepper complexity that follows. 20 months in mainly new American oak have given complexity and roundness and the 14% alcohol throws adds another dimension. The tannic grip is still very firm, and you'd be best to leave this another year or two in the bottle. The finish is long and complex, and this will partner up well with flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)



Stratus Cabernet Franc 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32

If Niagara ever pares down its grape varieties to the handful that do best in the region, Cabernet Franc will be one of the first choices. This one, from iconic winemaker J.L. Groux, has classic aromas of rich berry fruit, spice, pencil shavings and the merest hint of verdure. The texture is rich and layered, and the flavours are concentrated and complex, with long, ripe tannins. The balance is fine and this is one lovely wine, and it's a reminder of how good a vintage 2001 was. Drink it now and over the next five years. Order from Stratus using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)


Stratus White 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36

Who knows what the proportions are, but the grapes include Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Both of Stratus's flagship wines are blends, an echo of the Old World where single-variety wines were rare and even less often known by their varietal names. The 2002 White gives off huge floral and fruit aromas that flow through to elegant, layered flavours of fruit (notably peach, pear, and apple). The fruit is solid and pure across the palate, and the wine ends long and clean. A quite remarkable wine in many respects. (RP)


Strewn "Terroir" Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (618579)

Made only in the best of years, this red stands up to its vaunted reputation. Black plums, vanilla and leather waft from this garnet-coloured red. The flavours and mouthfeel are a template for well-made wine. They build from an initial attack of ripe dark berry fruit and tannins that are perceptible, but not grippy, into a perfect blend of ripe fruit, cleansing acidity and a well balanced finish that is lengthy and memorable. Drink now and over the next 3 years with well seasoned leg of lamb. Order, by the case, direct from the winery www.strewnwinery.com (VH)


Watch for these on wine lists in selected Ontario restaurants. If you're a restaurateur, these are wines to consider for your list.



Mitchell "The Growers" Grenache 2002
Clare Valley $22

The label's a bit bizarre, with repeated GSM letters. They generally mean Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz, Mourvèdre/Mataro, but here the blend is Grenache, Mourvèdre and Sangiovese. (Sangiovese is a variety to watch for from Australian producers, by the way.) It has a generous, fruity texture with intense red fruit flavours and spicy notes. The alcohol is high (15%) but it doesn't interfere with the balance. It went very well with roasted lamb and North African spices. Available from Lifford Agency at www.liffordwineagency.com. (RP)



Laurent Miquel "Nord Sud"Viognier 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $16

This has a lovely floral, fruity nose in the typical peach and apricot zones. It's full and mouth-filling, with a smooth texture and luscious apricot and peach flavours accented with sweet spice. The finish is long, with very attractive fruit notes. The balance is very good and the wine finishes very clean. Pair this with grilled pork tenderloin with fruit salsa. Order from the Lifford Agency at www.liffordwineagency.com. (RP)


Château de Lascaux Rosé 2004
AOC Coteaux de Languedoc $17

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, this is a lovely rosé with classy rich fruit (berries and red tree fruit). It's dry, elegant, and a cut above most rosés of this style. Pair it with summer dishes with a bit of weight, like spicy beef salad. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)


Château la Condamine Bertrand "Gourmandise" 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $38

A truly stunning wine made from 100% Petit Verdot. It's chock full of black, ripe fruit with prominent coffee and licorice notes. Big and brutish, mouth-filling and chewy, but yet with structure and even elegance under the sheer power. The tannins are firm and gripping, and this will benefit from three or four years aging, but you could tackle it now with a hunk of rare or medium-rare beef. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)


Château la Condamine Bertrand "Barrique" 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $18

A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this offers full-throttle fruit with loads of complexity: mocha, pepper, spices romp among the dark plums, cherries and berries. Look for a generous texture, good structure, long, ripe tannins, and a long finish. It's perfect for rich red meat dishes. This producer has a very impressive portfolio. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)


Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois 2003
AOC Minervois $16

A stunning wine at a great price. There's no excuse not to buy this sort of thing by the case! It's packed with rich fruit (this is from 2003, that sweltering year in France), with and retains structure and flavour purity. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, it's a natural for grilled red meats. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic