October 30, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on five California wine regions followed by a mini-feature on full-bodied wines with food pairings and then the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the above format.

Ottawa Wine and Food Show – November 5 – 7, 2010. It’s their 25th anniversary. Meet winecurrent’s Vic Harradine as he leads two premium, interactive, enjoyable tasting events tailored for every level of wine-lover – ‘Best of Show and Gold Medal Winners’ 4:15 pm Friday and ‘90+ Parker Points’ 2:15 pm Saturday. Tickets for each one-hour tasting include VIP admission to the show for the entire day (no long line ups). Learn more and purchase tickets

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Big wines – Big bucks – this release raises the bar in quality and price, but there are still a few value-driven bargains. Here’s a sampling that are under $15 -
  • Finca El Origen ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $14.95
  • Carmen Vineyards ‘Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2008 $14.95

  • Montgó Monastrell/Shiraz 2007 $13.95
• Ontario ultra-premium wines featured – look in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section following the Main Release for Château des Charmes, Henry of Pelham, Hidden Bench and Pillitteri.
• 5 Stars – four ring the bell – Quinta Do Noval LBV Port; Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ 2007 Merlot; Hidden Bench ‘Roman’s Block’ 2008 Riesling; Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ 2007 Merlot.

California Feature

Duckhorn ‘Decoy’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $29.95 (186171) 14.8% alcohol
Look for an abundance of savoury herb with hints of cherry and red berry fruit aromas on the nose. Flavours of spice, savory, mixed field berry fruit dominate the palate and drying finish—perceptible tannin that will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. It’s mid weight with nice mouth feel and an herbal tang on the aftertaste. Pour with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Folie à Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $24.95 (186163) 14.0% alcohol
Dense and delightful with aromas of spiced, black fruit and licorice, this is a dry medium-full bodied wine. Velvety tannins and fine acidity frame solid ripe, fruity flavours of cassis and black cherry. Balanced with rich luscious fruit, it’s very attractive on the palate and lengthy finish. Great with lamb or beef, or for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $74.95 (071407) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, alluring aromas of spice box, black plum and berry pie provide segue to a complex, medium-full bodied, nicely textured mouthful of cassis, mint and kirsch liqueur. Recently certified bio-dynamic, this sports a lengthy, fruity finish underpinned with a solid tannin structure—suggest drinking 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $74.95 (189795) 14.5% alcohol
Fresh, lively aromas of cranberry, spice and leather rip from the glass of this complex and beautifully structured Napa Cab. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and sports a lengthy, fruity aftertaste with a lick of perceptible tannin. Palate-coating flavours wash in waves with cassis, ripe juicy, black Bing cherry and mint-infused black currant to the fore. If you must try it now, decant 3 hours and pour with rare-grilled beefsteak—better 2016 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)


Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $49.95 (996405) also 375 mL $27.95 (202630) 14.1% alcohol
Involved aromas—dark berry fruit, toast and tobacco, mineral notes and dark chocolate among them—waft from this medium-full bodied, nicely textured red. Fruit forward on the palate with minty cherry, cranberry and succulent mulberry, it turns racy on the finish with pomegranate and red currant mingling with hints of tar and underlain with a supple tannin structure. Good to go now after a three-hour decant, better yet 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Alderbrook ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2004
Dry Creek Valley $23.95 (603696) 14.5% alcohol
Displaying understated elegance and finesse, the subtle aromas are well-ripened forest fruit, pepper and spice. Integrated tannins, refined acidity and fine dark fruit flavours contribute to an overall sense of balance. Nuances of spice and dark chocolate garnish the long gentle finish. A treat for the senses. (Susan Desjardins)


Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2007
Sonoma County $23.95 (673798) 15.0% alcohol
Opaque and inky, this wine offers lusty aromas of dark fruit—black berry and cherry—along with attractive hints of red rose, caramel and spice. There is great depth of luscious dark fruit, a velvety texture and adequate acidity. Powerful, well-integrated and impactful, it’s loaded with fruit yet nicely balanced. (Susan Desjardins)


Ridge ‘Lytton Springs’ 2007
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $44.95 (982413) 14.4% alcohol
From one of the iconic ‘three Rs of Zinfandel’—Ridge, Ravenswood and Rosenblum—this blend—72% Zinfandel, 22% Petite Syrah, 7% Carignan—dishes up a juicy, well-balanced mouthful of fruity flavour. Fast becoming a hallmark of Sonoma, it’s not over-the-top, hi-octane alcohol and there’s good moderating acidity allowing for enjoyment of a second glass and sensible food pairing. Espresso roast and mixed spice on the nose, the palate’s treated to a mid weight, nicely textured wash of black currant jam balanced by pomegranate and spice. The lengthy aftertaste is racy and balanced. Darn good value and a classy wine. (Vic Harradine)


Austin Hope Winery ‘Hope Family Vineyard’ Syrah 2008
Paso Robles $39.95 (686121) 15.5% alcohol
There’s a lot going on in this complex, rich and concentrated red, built for pure drinking pleasure. The lifted, involved aromas bolt from the glass with cherry/berry, leather, toast and spice predominant. Mouth-coating flavours of succulent, black bramble berry, black plum compote and spice-infused cherry are borne on a mid-weight, silky-smooth texture on the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. The finish cleans up well, ending with a surge of racy, red berry notes. (Vic Harradine)


Ampelos Cellars ‘Lambida’ Pinot Noir 20026
Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County $33.95 (186635) 14.4% alcohol
Following a complex nose of lively red cherry, mixed dark berry and mineral notes, this dishes up a gorgeous mouthful of rich, dark cherry, juicy, black currant and racy cranberry flavour. It’s medium bodied, well paced and nicely textured with a balanced and juicy, fruit-forward and lengthy aftertaste—lip-smacking good. It’s good to now on its own or with smoked duck breasts. It has the carpentry to last another 5 years. (Vic Harradine)


Belle Glos ‘Clark & Telephone Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County $48.95 (652883) 14.7% alcohol
Savoury and herbaceous aromas on the nose, this light-medium bodied Pinot delivers a wash of focused and racy flavours—red cherry and mixed field berry mingling with savoury, herbal notes along with hints of strawberry, all riding a spine of racy acidity. It finishes dry with a nice turn of red berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Greg Norman ‘California Estates’ Pinot Noir 2008
Santa Barbara County $24.95 (687988) 13.9% alcohol
There’s complexity of aromas—red fruit, turned earth, herbs and spice and an elusive tangy freshness. On the palate, it’s very appealing—round with fine tannins and refreshing acidity. The fruit is ripe, sweet and spicy, its attractive flavours complemented with notes of toast and vanilla on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Sanford Pinot Noir 2008
Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County $44.95 (206680) 14.5% alcohol
Spice, herbs and floral on the nose, it’s light-mid weight with a nicely balanced wash of red cherry, ripe blueberry and rhubarb flavours that persist throughout the lengthy dry, balanced aftertaste. There’s perceptible tannin, as well. You can give it a couple of years in the cellar for the tannin to resolve or pour now alongside veal parmigiana after a two-hour decant. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

Quinta Do Noval ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2003
DOC Douro $21.95 (677815) 20.0% alcohol
This is about as good as LBV gets; it’s rich, structured, complex and downright delicious. Heady aromas abound—dark, juicy berry fruit, Christmas cake spice and hints of tar. It coats the palate in gently rolling waves of succulent mulberry, cassis and black plum compote balanced beautifully by moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. The lengthy lip-smacking finish displays balance and finesse. Pick up a few for those cold winter nights; that’re too soon on the way. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Strewn ‘Terroir SV French Oak’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Niagara Lakeshore $24.95 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 11, 2008 @ 24.95) From fully ripened fruit harvested in the Strewn Vineyard, this was aged in French 'Alliers' oak barrels. Aromas of toast and vanilla open this nicely textured medium- to full-bodied offering. That’s followed by expressive and elegant layers of ripe, sweet, tree fruit flavours—ripe yellow peach, succulent pear and apple. There’s a delightful edge on the lengthy finish as it cleans up nicely with a glorious gusher of spice-infused citrus flavours. It pairs well with roast chicken accompanied by root vegetables. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (184432) 12.0% alcohol
Attractive aromas waft from the glass—floral, tropical fruit and gooseberry. Medium bodied with zingy acidity, the wine is lip-smacking good with great consistency throughout. The refreshing flavours of citrus and tropical fruit persist on a tangy finish. Enjoy it with a spinach salad garnished with goat cheese and toasted walnuts. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Bodega NQN ‘Colección NQN’ Malbec 2006
Patagonia $19.95 (186189) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and inky in the glass, aromas and flavours abound with dark, juicy cherry/berry, toasty char, bramble berry and black currant jam among them. It’s medium bodied and well textured sporting a nicely balanced, fruity finish of spice, licorice and more juicy berry fruit. Straightforward and uncomplicated, it should find a lot of fans at this price point. (Vic Harradine)


Finca El Origen ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Uco Valley, Mendoza $14.95 (128991) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of earthy notes and dark berry fruit open this rich, succulent, mid-weight, nicely textured Cab. Black plum, juicy Bing cherry, hints of char and succulent brambly blackberry wash over the palate and lingering aftertaste. There’s a perceptible tannin underpinning—decant three hours before serving. The price-quality ratio’s skewed in your favour; this gained its final ½ star on good value. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Carmen Vineyards ‘Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2008 

DO Casablanca, Chile $14.95 (961276) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 18, 2010 @ 14.95) The price-quality balance in this flagship ‘Gran Reserva’ tips well in your favour. Alluring aromas of green apple, spiced white peach and toasty, mineral notes are replayed as flavours on the palate. It’s mid weight, generously textured, almost buttery, with a well-balanced, refreshing aftertaste of ripe tropical fruit, lip-smacking citrus and a wisp of seamlessly integrated French oak. Pick up more than one. (Vic Harradine) 


Luis Felipe Edwards ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (169847) 14.0% alcohol
The dense inky color portends a robust and flavourful wine. The aromas are intense—ripe black fruit, sweet spice, mint and licorice. It’s dry yet softly textured, with captivating flavours of black cherry, cassis, spice, pepper and toast. The finish has some warmth wrapped around the ripe fruit and toasty notes. Very consistent and enjoyable. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

Heartland ‘Stickleback’ White 2009
South Australia $13.95 (186387) 12.0% alcohol
Unoaked, this is a fascinating blend of Verdelho, Viognier and Semillon that displays lovely floral, citrus and orchard fruit aromas. Medium bodied, there’s vibrant acidity, zesty citrus and crisp apple flavours. A tangy, slightly pithy note persists on the bright refreshing finish. A mouthwateringly fresh aperitif wine, or serve it with a deli platter. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Mr. Riggs ‘Piebald’ Syrah/Viognier 2007
Adelaide, South Australia $24.95 (186098) 14.5% alcohol
This is a ripper—ripe juicy fruit, balance, structure and a lengthy aftertaste, but not from the city of Adelaide—Adelaide an Aussie ‘super zone’ taking in various Geographical Indications including Barossa Valley. The fruit for this probably came from a cool-ish area in the smaller GI of McLaren Vale. Dark cherry, licorice and aromatic bitters on the nose, this delivers palate-coating, teeth-staining bold flavour—succulent mulberry, sweet cassis and kirsch liqueur. Framed by good acidity, bolstered by ripe, supple tannin, this is not for sissies. (Vic Harradine)


Oliverhill Petite Sirah 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $46.95 (191585) 15.5% alcohol
A Wow! wine delivering at every level, aromas of black licorice, tobacco, spice and berry fruit jump from the glass. It’s full bodied, hi octane and nicely textured. Rich, complex and nicely structured, the palate’s treated to waves of fairly-well balanced fruit—black currant, bramble berry and spiced-infused juicy, black Bing cherry underlain with solid tannin and moderating acidity. Pour after a three-hour decant with osso bucco or cellar another three years, drinking 2014 to 2019 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)


Pillar Box Red 2007
Padthaway $15.00 (685941) 15.0% alcohol
Easy to drink, this blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has appealing aromas of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, spice, vanilla and milk chocolate that replay on the palate. Dry and nicely balanced, it has ripe tannin and lip-smacking fruity acidity. The lively, lengthy finish is lifted by a warm black pepper tang. An extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Babich ‘Black Label’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough $17.95 (009142) 13.0% alcohol
Pale straw with a tinge of green, lifted aromas of gooseberry, asparagus and tropical fruits waft from the glass. Medium bodied, the wine has great balance with vivacious acidity and consistent flavours of citrus, canned asparagus and light tropical notes right through the long, clean zesty finish. A great example of the genre. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Felicité Pinot Noir 2009
WO Eilandia/Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $14.95 (173005) 13.5% alcohol
Exhibiting attractive aromas of red fruit, earth, vanilla and a roasted vegetal note, this dry, medium-bodied red has fine tannin and fresh acidity. There’s bright red cherry and cranberry with some dark charry toasty notes on the palate. The fruit is spiked with a hint of white pepper and the charry note lingers on the finish. Nicely crafted. (Susan Desjardins)


The Winery of Good Hope ‘Vinum’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 (172973) 14.0% alcohol
A deep opaque red, this displays cedar, herbal and vegetal aromas complemented by red and black fruit. Smooth and silky on the attack, fresh, ripe, tangy and peppery berry fruit follows through on the palate. Framed by fine-grained tannin and fresh acidity, the wine has a nice balance. Notes of herbs and dark chocolate persist on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Jean Geiler Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $16.95 (106864) 13.0% alcohol
Bonanza—this is a fabulous value-laden wine! Lifted aromas captivate—floral, tropical, lychee. There’s an overwhelming impression of a sweet fresh bouquet. Off-dry and medium bodied, the wine has a beautiful smooth almost oily texture, lush ripe fruit and heady spice on the palate. Think of sweetly spiced pear tart. The finish is long and balmy. Run out and buy a few bottles to savour on its own, or enjoy with your favorite spicy Asian recipe. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2008
AOC Chablis $18.95 (183574) 12.5% alcohol
Displaying bright citrus aromas and a slight pungent, vegetal note, this light-medium bodied white is bright and refreshing with a racy stream of acidity and a clean palate of honeyed lemon. Dry and crisp, it has a nuance of minerality on the lengthy, tangy finish. A great match for seafood or pan-fried halibut. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel Blanc’ 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $33.95 (48892) 13.5% alcohol
Pure aromas of orchard fruit and a hint of citrus draw you in to this ample, luscious medium-bodied gem. There’s a core of ripe sweet fruit—stone and tropical notes—riding on a seam of fresh acidity complemented by a note of sweet, spicy oak. Finesse, grace and balance delivered for those of you who appreciate the whites of the southern Rhône, this is a blend of Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc and Clairette. Consider a bottle for your holiday season dinner. (Susan Desjardins)

France : Red Wine

Château Ducla 2008
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $14.95 (162461) 12.0% alcohol
Quiet and subtle on the nose—spice and black currant—this is silky smooth and ready to drink offering dark berry, racy cranberry, savoury herb and cherry/berry flavour on the mid-weight, nicely textured palate. The aftertaste is mid length and well balanced. Sipping nicely on its own, it also pours well with roast, stuffed chicken and pork. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Pomerol 2007
AOC Pomerol $24.95 (903013) 13.0% alcohol
The nose is complex with aromas of red cherry, plum, earth, toasted nuts and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, with great balance and finesse, the wine has firm, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity and a core of cherry fruit with an underlying earthy quality. Notes of charry toast linger on the delectable, persistent finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel’ 2008
AOC Côtes du Rhône $29.95 (4884) 14.0%
From vineyards across the national highway from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, this blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah is unfiltered and organically grown. A clean, clear ruby color, it has enticing subtle aromas—spice, herbs, leather, red and black fruit and smoky, earthy notes. There’s an immediate sense of grace and balance on entry. It’s mid weight with ripe tannins and a seam of fresh acidity underpinning fine spice-infused forest berries. The earthy note and a hint of pepper flow through the lengthy finish. It’s a wine of finesse that will cellar a further 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Kabinett 2008
Pradikätswein, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel $16.95 (189175) 8.5% alcohol
Definite nuances of petrol aromas mingle with honeyed tropical fruit on the nose of this off-dry, well-paced and well-priced Riesling. It’s light on its feet and heavy on charm and flavour—sweet pear and apple juxtaposed with tangy, racy pineapple and lip-smacking citrus. Give it a go with spicy Asian cuisine—biryani chcken with garlic nan. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Zenato Pinot Grigio 2009
IGT delle Venezie $14.95 (37648) 12.5% alcohol
This is a soft, gentle wine with aromas and flavours of ripe stone fruit and light citrus. Light-medium bodied with fine acidity and a fresh finish, it’s nicely balanced and very drinkable. Enjoy it now as an aperitif with antipasto or smoked salmon with parsnip and potato rosti. (Susan Desjardins)


Zenato ‘Sergio Zenato Riserva Lugana’ 2007
DOC Veneto $27.95 (928218) 13.5% alcohol
Full-bodied and oozing with charm, the aromas of mineral, citrus and nectarine provide suitable segue to waves of flavour and silky smooth texture bathing the palate—melon, citrus and hints of sweet Bosc pear. The balanced finish delivers more of the same, finishing with a lingering, delectable aftertaste. It’s a gorgeous wine that needs no accompaniment, but certainly has the stuffing to pair well with many chicken, pork or veal dishes. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Illuminati ‘Riparosso’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008 

DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $12.95 (328997) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 26, 2010 @ 12.95) There’s always great value in this 100% Montepulciano; it’s the same price now as in 2003. This vintage, it dishes out a lip-smacking rush of well-defined flavour with red cherry, ripe juicy strawberry and sweet savoury notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy aftertaste that’s dry, balanced and mouth-watering good. Good to go now alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Poderi Colla ‘Bussia Dardi Le Rose’ Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $47.95 (596890) 13.5% alcohol
This is gorgeous; alluring aromas float freely from this brick-coloured beauty with lilac, spice box, earthiness and stewed, dark fruit galore. Medium-full bodied and finely focused on the palate, it delivers a persistent stream of flavour with pie cherry, licorice and black plum to the fore. The aftertaste lingers forever and is well balanced and fruity. Beginning to drink nicely, the optimum window is 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Terre di Puglia Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $14.95 (181248) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent yet aromatic and flavourful, this wine of Italy’s south has plush, sweet black fruit aromas with nuances of tobacco and spiced vanilla. Medium-full bodied, it’s fruit forward with intense flavours of spiced, dark berries. Velvety in texture with balancing acidity, it has a mid-length finish with a lingering trace of toast and chocolate. Robust and flavourful, enjoy it with meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)


Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (512384) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from the fruits of the Tignanello, Badia a Passignano and Pèppolíi vineyards, aged 14 months in small oak casks then in bottle for a further 12 months, this is a deep ruby gem with enticing complex aromas—ripe, red fruit, spice, herbs and leather. Medium-full bodied, it has a firm structure and fine acidity framing spiced, red fruit with earthy, toasty notes. Elegant and fine, the lengthy finish has a subtle hint of dark chocolate. Decant before serving with full-flavoured meat dishes or cellar a further 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Mocali Brunello Di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $46.95 (064956) 14.0% alcohol
Showing its age with an orangey brick-coloured hue in the glass, this medium-full bodied red delivers a quiet nose of mineral, earthiness and black plum aromas. It sports a generous mouth feel and a solid stream of flavour with toasty char, prune plum and raisined berry predominant. It’s nicely balanced with a mid-length finish that layers on grainy tannin and aromatic bitters. (Vic Harradine)


Ornellaia ‘Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia’ 2008
DOC Bolgheri $59.95 (606194) 14.5% alcohol
This is ‘little brother’ to the iconic Orenellia and a blend—50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot—that’s smooth as silk and absolutely brimming with flavour, weight and incredible value. Yes, incredible value; you’ll be paying 4x this for big brother. Sweet vanilla and ripe berry fruit on the nose, it transforms on the palate into a gusher of flavour with concentration, complexity and weight—juicy black currant, cherry, succulent mulberry and charry notes. The finish is balanced, tannic and lingers—you shouldn’t, it won’t remain on shelves long. Drink 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (353201) 13.5% alcohol
An involved and perfumed nose bustles out of the glass with aromas of savoury herb, tobacco, leather, and charred wood smoke. There’s a lovely stream of balanced, racy flavour with ripe, red cherry, ripe cranberry and spice-infused pomegranate up front. Medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel, it finishes balanced, lengthy and mouth-watering delectable. (Vic Harradine)


Ruffino ‘Santedame’ Chianti Classico 2007 

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (523076) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 23, 2010 @ 19.95) This is a straightforward well-priced Chianti with a vibrant nose of mature dark berries, herbs and spices. There’s an interesting range of flavors—cherries, chocolate, vanilla—as well as firm tannins and typically refreshing acidity. It’s medium to full bodied, well integrated and satisfying. The finish is long with nuances of black pepper. Give it a go with marinated grilled hanger steak with grilled, sliced red pepper and onion. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Celler de Capçanes ‘Mas Donis Barrica Old Vines’ 2008
DO Montsant $16.95 (705863) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of Garnacha (85%) and Syrah, the wine was aged in American and French oak and displays an attractive nose of red berry fruit, toast and earth. Dry, with a tangy texture and ripe integrated tannins, it has nice balance and loads of spicy, fresh berry fruit—think raspberry jam—and lovely toasty, chocolate notes on the finish. Enjoy with your favorite grilled meat. (Susan Desjardins)


Condado De Haza Crianza 2007
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (963348) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of black currant, floral notes and spice introduce this medium- bodied, lightly textured, racy Tempranillo. It’s balanced with rich, black raspberry and sweet vanilla flavour working with racy pie cherry and tangy rhubarb. Needing a bit of time, decant two hours and pour alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Herencia Remondo ‘La Montesa’ 2007
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (674572) 14.0% alcohol
The doyen of Priorato, Alvaro Palaçios, also shines in Rioja. Aromas of earthy and mineral tones mingle with spice and dark berry fruit on the involved nose. Juicy, ripe succulent flavours abound with Bing cherry, black currant and spice-infused, black plum fruit to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a racy, juicy, lip-smacking finish underlain with ripe, supple tannin. Serve alongside grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)


Montgó Monastrell/Shiraz 2007
DO Yecla $13.95 (076588) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury spice, tobacco, berry fruit and toast on the nose, it shifts into high gear on the palate with a serious, balanced rush of flavour—rich, ripe, black, juicy cherry and a mixed basket of field berry fruit. Medium-bodied and nicely textured, it's simply full of flavour. The aftertaste is dry, balanced and lip-smacking good. It’s the second-lowest-priced red wine in the entire release and terrific value. Buy with both hands. (Vic Harradine)


Taja ‘Reserva’ 2005
DO Jumilla $14.95 (243329)
Mähler-Besse is a Bordeaux-based company owners of Château Palmer, a third-growth property in Margaux. Leather and dark berry fruit on the nose, it hustles out of the glass with a fruit-forward, rich and concentrated splash of balanced, juicy, dark berry fruit nicely balanced with pie cherry flavour. It has some age plus good weight and medium texture with a racy, dry finish. Serve with meat-laden pizza or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Vintages

Vintages Release: December 11, 2010

It’s not too early to think of Christmas and here’s a dandy gift for wine-loving friends and acquaintances—a 3-pack of award-winning icewine, attractively packaged and priced. Individual wines are reviewed below.


Henry of Pelham Icewine Cabernet Franc – Riesling – Vidal 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, 3 bottles each 200 mL $99.95 (94110) 9.5% alcohol
Cabernet Franc – Delightful and balanced with red berry and cherry flavours. This dances on the palate with lively ripe fruit flavours. Excellent moderating acidity allows this to be sipped on its own as dessert or accompany desserts with a dark chocolate component. (Vic Harradine)
Riesling – Elegant and alluring, it dishes up a beautifully structured and balanced mouthful of delectable nectar that’s not cloying or overpowering. Look for honeyed aromas and flavours of apple and tropical fruit. It’s a good size to share between 4 after a hearty meal. (Vic Harradine)
Vidal – Unctuous and palate-coating, this delivers a rich mouthful of flavour with mango, pineapple and orange peel marmalade in the mix. Generously textured and full flavoured, it’s got the weight to stand alone as dessert and the flavours to match up with light-coloured puddings and fruit flans. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 8, 2011

Jackson-Triggs Icewine Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 200 mL (193326) 10.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of exotic spice, floral notes and tropical fruit give way to a delicious and nicely balanced mouthful of pineapple, poached pear and spice-infused mango. This is mid weight and well textured with a lengthy finish adorned by hints of blood orange. Pouring well on its own, it also sips well alongside crème brulée. Can’t wait? Pick it up now at the winery. (Vic Harradine)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Silver Series’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (209577) 13.2% alcohol
Perfumed and lifted aromas blast from the glass with passion fruit, green nettles and traces of honeyed fruit to the fore. It’s racy and refreshing on the palate with a surge of crisp flavour—lemon-lime and bracing, white grapefruit predominant. The mouth-watering aftertaste delivers more of the same mingling with nuances of key lime pie. It pours well with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawns under generous squirts of freshly squeezed lemon. Can’t wait? Pick it up now at the winery. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: March 5, 2011

Rodney Strong ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $34.95 (210039) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, aromatic and absolutely creamy smooth, this is worth every penny. Alluring aromas abound with sweet vanilla, tropical fruit and toasty notes among them. Layered waves of flavour caress the palate with butterscotch, pear, pineapple and fig to the fore. It’s medium-full weight, smooth and satin and brimming with balanced, fruit flavour on the long, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: April 2011

Sebastiani Merlot 2006
Sonoma County, California $18.95 (219162) 13.5% alcohol
This is fully flavoured and value packed with a complex, rich and aromatic nose of mixed berry fruit, black plum, spice and toasty notes. It’s a delight on the palate dishing up a balanced and fruit-forward mouthful of flavour—black currant, cassis and good moderating acidity via ripe cranberry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, smooth as silk, fruity finish. What’s not to like? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Still in Vintages – I recently tasted, and in some cases re-tasted, a number of Jackson-Triggs’ wines and bring them to your attention as they represent good-to-great value. The Merlot provides one of those rare, unforgettable tasting experiences.


Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Méthode Classique’ 2005 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (587691) 12.5% alcohol 

Hand crafted in the image of vintage Champagne, this limited-release, bronze-hued beauty is crisp and refreshing throughout with an endless profusion of fine-bead bubbles. The honeyed pear, biscuit and apricot bouquet segues well-balanced apple, citrus and melon flavours gently mingling with delicious moderating tang. It’s silky smooth with a long mouth-watering aftertaste and offers a world of value. (Vic Harradine)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Merlot 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (922294) 13.8% alcohol
Can’t believe there are some left—it’s a stunning wine! It’s an inky purple, almost opaque red, with alluring, lifted aromas—charry toast, mocha, black, juicy plum and black licorice predominant. There’s a complex gusher of rich and concentrated flavour—succulent mulberry, cassis and juicy, spiced, racy red currant. It’s structured, medium-full bodied sporting a very generous mouth feel and a lingering, fruity aftertaste framed by moderating acidity and underpinned by solid tannin. Drink 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Syrah 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (086553) 13.5% alcohol 

Wood smoke, berry fruit and mixed spice aromas abound on the nose while the palate’s treated to a tangy rush of gorgeous flavour with ripe fruit—black currant and pomegranate—mingling with spice-infused cherry supported by a perceptible tannin underpinning. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a drying finish. This is poured best with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (144873) 12.0% alcohol
There’s an array of aromas with lemon tart, toast, apple and pear among them. Well made and well priced, this delivers a persistent mousse of mid-small bubbles coupled with a crisp, refreshing attack on the palate. Flavours of zesty lemon, pineapple and ripe pear abound while the aftertaste is racy and lip-smacking good. Pour as an aperitif or with all manner of appetizer—on par with most Champagne at a lot less money. (Vic Harradine)


Miguel Torres ‘Santa Digna Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Curico, Central Valley, Chile $14.95 (177451) 14.0% alcohol
This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores—at $13.95 until November 7, 2010. Involved aromas of smoke, earthiness and mocha make way for a delightful wash of flavour on the palate with lively, red berry fruit and savoury cassis predominant. The perceptible tannin provides structure while the moderating acidity offers balance and a dry, refreshing aftertaste. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and good value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Château des Charmes ‘Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard – Equuleus’ 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench $40.00 (319525) 14.0% alcohol
This ultra-premium blend—50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot—is made only in great years. Dark, dusty, alluring aromas—black berry fruit, exotic spice with hints of mint, mocha and licorice—are followed by a balanced, complex, mouthful of flavour coating the palate with black plum, cassis and ripe, juicy Bing cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel adorned by a lingering finish that’s bone dry and absolutely delicious—needing time to resolve the tannin. High praise—it was difficult to spit. Drink 2014 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Family Estate Cabernet-Merlot 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $50.00 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a great opportunity to taste an eleven-year-old, carefully cellared, Ontario red. Perfumed on the nose with a red berry fruit, tapenade and earthy, toasty note bouquet, this delivers a well-paced and persistent, racy stream of flavour throughout with pie cherry, ripe cranberry and pomegranate predominant. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with good structure and fresh liveliness on the crisp and dry finish. Buy at the winery or order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Henry of Pelham. (Vic Harradine)

Hidden Bench - Estate fruit, hand picked, hand sorted, gently whole bunch pressed coupled with sustainable agriculture and low-yield practices coalesce with the passion of owner/vigneron Harald Thiel to produce premium and ultra-premium wine with a definite sense of place. Terroir-driven and artisanal, their wine is out of the ordinary.


Hidden Bench ‘Roman’s Block – Rosomel Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.20 10.9% alcohol
Riesling lovers, don’t miss out on this—from the famous 21-B Weiss clone, (producing Canada’s Best Riesling 6 times) this tiny 3-acre block of 34-year-old vines was hand picked, hand sorted, then whole-bunched pressed, and fermented using wild yeasts. Slate, mineral and lemon-lime citrus aromas trumpet a river of crisp, racy flavours on the palate—Granny Smith apple, key lime and mineral-infused ripe grapefruit galore. It’s full of nerve and verve with ageing potential and a refreshing, mouth-watering aftertaste. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench ‘Nuit Blanche – Rosomel Vineyard’ 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $40.20 12.8% alcohol
Blending of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is common in Bordeaux and Australia. This is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc dishing up a gorgeous nose of passion fruit and slate alongside a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas. There’s a very generous mouth feel—barrel fermented, extended lees stirring—bolstered by complex flavours of green apple, mango and toasty, nutty notes. Beautifully balanced, well structured with a lengthy finish, this pours well with pan-seared almond-crusted fresh water fish. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench ‘Tête de Cuvée’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $45.20 13.9% alcohol
This unfined, unfiltered beauty, from the near-perfect ‘07 vintage, blossoms with tropical fruit, slate/mineral notes and toasty char aromas—aged 15 months in French oak. Only ten meticulously selected barrels—240 cases—were produced. It’s hugely textured, complex and well structured with time needed to knit together. Palate-coating flavours of green, crisp apple, racy citrus and honeyed white peach abound. It finishes incredibly lengthy, delectable and full of promise. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)


Hidden Bench ‘Locust Lane’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $65.20 13.8% alcohol
This is quite an amazing wine from young, 3-year-old, densely planted vines with a profit-destroying yield of approx. one ton per acre. It barrels from the glass with lifted aromas of dark, spicy, berry fruit and espresso roast. Waves of flavour ride on a silky-textured mouth feel with black, brambly berry, Bing cherry and spiced red currant to the fore. It’s balanced, complex and nicely structured—supple tannin is perceptible—with a lingering delicious aftertaste. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

Pillitteri Estates Winery - The ‘Exclamation’ series denotes flagship, top drawer and extra special. These ultra-premium wines are packaged in a stunning bottle with a silver-coloured, thick medallion on the front (or is it the back?) depicting a series of stainless-steel chairs commissioned by winery founders Gary and Lena Pillitteri. The chairs represent and tell a fascinating story of the Pillitteri family. The back label (or is it the front?) lists the grape and technical information of the wine. Front or back, it’s what’s inside that matters and these wines are every bit as stunning as the packaging. For now, available only at the winery and they won’t last long.


Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $23.00 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed and golden-hued, this sports an array of alluring aromas—sweet vanilla, toasty oak and ripe, baked apple. Incredibly textured and rich on the palate, there are silky smooth flavours of pineapple and pear with hints of melon. It’s complex, nicely structured and delicious. The balanced, mouth-watering aftertaste dishes up crisp and refreshing citrus adorned with notes of slate and mineral. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $30.00 12.9% alcohol
There are aromas and flavours of fine Bordeaux here. It’s earthy, gamey, dark berry fruit and leather on the nose bathing the palate with juicy, tangy and chewy flavours—pomegranate, blueberry, red cherry mingling with mocha and spice box. Mid weight, nicely textured with a mid-length, fruity and perceptible tannin aftertaste, it’s still a bit tight, but has the stuffing to go the distance. Decant three hours or drink 2012 to 2018. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan