October 16, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on Bordeaux followed by a mini-feature on Crémant—French sparkling wine not from Champagne—and then the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the above format.

Ottawa Wine and Food Show – November 5 – 7, 2010. It’s their 25th anniversary. Meet winecurrent’s Vic Harradine as he leads two premium, interactive, enjoyable tasting events tailored for every level of wine-lover – ‘Best of Show and Gold Medal Winners’ 4:15 pm Friday and ‘90+ Parker Points’ 2:15 pm Saturday. Tickets for each one-hour tasting include VIP admission to the show for the entire day (no long line up). Learn more and purchase tickets

Sonoma Super Stars Tour – Vancouver, Ottawa and Toronto host public ‘Taste and Buy’ Wine Fairs featuring over 80 wines from 30-plus premium Sonoma County, California wineries. Dates are, respectively, October 18, 20, 21, 2010. For date, time, location and ticket/price information… Learn more and purchase tickets 

Into the ‘Dragon’s Den’ and out with $25 000 – the owners of premium Vodka brands ‘Slava’ and ‘Zirkova’ duked it out winning People’s Choice on this popular TV show. Slava is ultra-smooth in a freezer-friendly triangular-shaped bottle; Zirkova is value-driven, spicy and smooth as satin. Almost everyone drinks vodka—here’s an entertaining, very educational PowerPoint file from the producer. It takes a while to load, but it's worth it… See more [20MB PPT]

Masi Agricola – exports more wine to Canada than any other country—Canada’s top restaurant purchaser is Trattoria Caffe Italia on Preston Street, Ottawa. Winecurrent tasted recently with winery President, Sandro Boscaini—Mr. Amarone—at Caffe Italia. The wines reviewed in the newsletter—you'll find three in the General section, one in an upcoming release—have wide distribution in LCBO stores.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Aged in Canadian oak – look in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section following the Main Release for Lailey’s Pinot Noir.
• 5 Stars – Two ring the 5 star bell – E&E Black Pepper Shiraz and Shingleback D-Block Reserve Shiraz in ‘Upstream’ immediately following the Main Release.
• Vic Picks Six – value-driven wines worth a multiple purchase:
  • Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Niagara Chardonnay 2008 $18.95
  • Ironstone California Chardonnay 2008 $15.95
  • Cat Amongst The Pigeons Australia Shiraz 2007 $17.95
  • Ravoire & Fils France Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2007 $14.95
  • Giordano Collection Italy Nero d’Avola 2008 $15.95
  • Inniskillin ‘East West Series’ B.C. & Ontario Cabernet - Shiraz 2008 $17.95

Bordeaux Feature

Château Larroque 2006
AOC Bordeaux $14.95 (92536) 13.0% alcohol
On the nose, it’s ripe, spiced black and red berry fruit, plum, tobacco and vanilla. Medium-full bodied, the fruit flavours replay strongly on the palate with a hint of black pepper. The balance, created by perceptible tannin and appropriate acidity, along with a warm fruity peppery finish, make this gold-medal winner very appealing. A great discovery, it gets an extra half star for value. Drinkable now, it’s also a candidate for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Château d’Argadens Bordeaux Supérieur 2006
AOC Bordeaux $16.95 (681643) 13.0% alcohol
Predominantly Merlot (65%), this balanced gold-medal winner is great value. The aromas are alluring—spicy, richly fruity with nuances of cedar, vanilla and licorice. Firmly structured and dry, the wine has chewy tannins, fresh acidity and subtle herbal notes complementing the fine fruit. There are hints of dark chocolate and toast on the lengthy, dry, flavourful finish. It entices you to take another sip, and at this price you should. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Grand-Maison ‘Cuvée Spéciale’ 2006
AOC Côtes de Bourg $16.95 (194217) 13.0% alcohol
This is a light-on-its feet ‘Wine of the Month’ selection showing savoury herbs and leafy nuances with a solid core of red cherry and spice-infused red berry fruit showing through on the mid palate and racy, dry aftertaste. It’s underpinned by perceptible tannin and a laser-like spine of acidity. Best poured alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Château Fongaban 2006
AOC Côtes de Castillon $16.95 (192401) 12.5% alcohol
Opening with an alluring nose of mixed spice and dark berry fruit, the palate’s treated to a wash of black berry, spice and cassis that’s peeking out from under a solid tannin structure. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured with a dry, fruity finish. A three-hour decant will make it more accessible, as will a couple of years in the cellar. Either way, you can’t argue with the price. (Vic Harradine)


Château St. Georges 2006
AOC St-Georges-St-Émilion $34.95 (960310) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of tobacco and berry fruit adorned by notes of toasty oak flow freely from this primarily Merlot blend hailing from the smallest appellation in Bordeaux—trivia for your next tasting. Black currant and spice-infused cherry on the nose, it dishes out a medium-full-bodied, nicely textured and balanced splash of sweet cassis and tangy pie cherry. The tannins are ripe and supple while the aftertaste lingers. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2006
AOC Saint-Émilion $19.95 (979955) 12.5% alcohol
Approachable now, this delivers a warm, round mouthful of succulent fruit, moderate, sweet tannin and a fruit-forward aftertaste. Aromas of dark plum jam, succulent black, juicy Bing cherry and spice are replayed on the palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length fruity finish. Easy sipping on its own, it pours well with spicy, smoked and barbecued ribs. (Vic Harradine)


Clos du Grand Puceau 2003
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $25.95 (112904) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of sweet, dark fruit abound. Reflecting the searing hot 2003 vintage, this rolls out a heavenly textured, smooth and mellow mouthful of fruit with just enough tannin for structure and perfect acidity for balance. Dark plum compote and kirsch liqueur compete for attention with bright red cherry on the palate and aftertaste. Drink over the next 3 or 4 years. (Vic Harradine)


Château Moulin de Canhaut 2005
AOC Médoc $19.95 (190983) 13.0% alcohol
A 50/50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this deep ruby wine has a medley of alluring aromas—ripe dark fruit, espresso, toast and earthy notes. Medium-full bodied and dry, it has a firm structure and lively acidity that carries the bright red and black cherry/berry flavours through the lengthy finish. Subtle notes of dark toast and spice linger. Eminently suitable for cellaring up to 5 years, it could also be served now with intensely flavoured meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Reverdi 2006
AOC Listrac-Médoc $25.95 (194209) 13.5% alcohol
Dark and inky in the glass, there are aromas galore with sweet vanilla, spice box, dark toast and hints of berry fruit among them. It’s racy and tangy on the palate with flavours of pie cherry and cranberry mingling with nuances of mint. Medium-full bodied with a nice mouth feel, it finishes dry and with promise of pouring particularly well with Swiss steak or veal Parmigiano. (Vic Harradine)


Château les Clauzots 2009
AOC Graves $18.95 (190934) 12.0% alcohol
High-toned, the aromas are floral, tropical and citrus with a subtle herbaceous nuance. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, the wine is medium bodied with tangy acidity and clean flavours of citrus, tropical fruit and asparagus. The finish is lively and long. It’s mouth-wateringly good. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de Cruzeau Blanc 2007
AOC Pessac-Léognan $24.95 (966010) 12.5% alcohol
Composed of 100% Sauvignon Blanc and aged in oak barrels, this unique wine offers complex aromas—citrus, gooseberry, fennel and a slight vegetal note. Soft and subtle on the attack, the wine has refined acidity and lovely flavours of lemon-lime, crisp apple and a hint of spice. It’s medium bodied, tangy and refreshing on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Le Dauphin de Guiraud 2003
AOC Sauternes $24.95 (190496) 13.5% alcohol
Golden amber, this fabulous dessert wine has great depth and presence. Aromas of marmalade, orange rind, honeyed caramel and vanilla beckon. On the palate, a satiny texture, warmth and acidity wrap around flavours of spun brown sugar, candied citrus and five-fruit marmalade. The extended finish replays these exotic flavours. Totally compelling—you just want more. Go for the most decadent matches—Roquefort, foie gras, crème brulée—and secure an extra bottle for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine Feature

Louis Bouillot ‘Perle Rare Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne 2006
AOC Burgundy $19.95 (178137) 12.0% alcohol
Clean, bright and just off-dry, there’s a very fine mouth-filling mousse to this sparkler. Aromas and flavours of light toast, stone and orchard fruit and honeyed citrus, delight. It’s delicate, yet flavourful, balancing freshness and sweet fruit. Tangy notes of lemon-lime linger on the finish. Great for sipping with friends, anytime. (Susan Desjardins)


Moncontour ‘Brut’ Crémant de Loire Rosé Non-vintage
AOC Loire $16.95 (183533) 12.0% alcohol
A brilliant pale salmon in the glass, the aromas on the nose are tangy red berries with a touch of lemon. The red fruit carries through on the palate—raspberry and cranberry—along with notes of strawberry-rhubarb jam and a hint of light toast. Dry, bright and refreshing with a frothy mousse, it’s appealing on the palate and easy on the wallet. (Susan Desjardins)


Pierre Sparr ‘Brut Réserve’ Crémant d’Alsace Non-vintage
AOC Alsace $18.95 (173401) 12.0% alcohol
Light on it’s feet, yet creamy and generous, this fresh citrusy wine has fine aromas and flavours of toasted brioche, stone fruit and lemon-chiffon pie. It’s vibrant, lively and refreshing with a delicate mousse and palate-cleansing mid-length finish. It’s a great choice for a veal or pork dish. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (586347) 13.5% alcohol
This is one of the most well-known and most-respected single-vineyard Chardonnays in Niagara—it’s clean, crisp and refreshing with good structure and oodles of flavour. Crisp green apple, ripe pear and pineapple meld beautifully with vanilla and mineral characteristics. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Delightful on its own, it pairs and pours well with turkey or roast
chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run Riesling 2008 

VQA Ontario $17.95 (191353) 10.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 7, 2010 @ $17.95) This is a dazzling expression of off-dry expressive, balanced Riesling. It has good structure and strong sense of purpose. Green apple and spicy lime cordial aromas on the nose segue mouth-watering flavours on the palate—tangy white grapefruit, crisp pear and succulent white peach balanced with a riveting spine of moderating acidity. It’s generously textured sporting a lovely lip-smacking finish. Pair with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: White Wine

See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (126912) 14.0% alcohol
Barrel fermented and oak aged for 9 months, this internationally acclaimed wine offers a complex nose of orchard fruit—pear to the fore—vanilla, subtle toast and a tropical undertone. It’s dry, medium bodied with a creamy texture and fresh acidity while notes of smoky oak dance through the flavours of pear and citrus. It’s well balanced and a nice match for herbed roast chicken or pork loin. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Meritage 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (042820) 13.5% alcohol
An even-up blend of the two Cabernets and Merlot, this is replete with racy, tangy fruit—pie cherry, cranberry and pomegranate—laced with savoury, herbal notes. The aftertaste hints of darker berry fruit and black plum. It’s mid weight offering up aromas of toast, mineral and tobacco. Pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce or veal Parmigiano. (Vic Harradine)


Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (33894) 12.5% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of four vineyards, separately fermented, this assemblage displays warm aromas of subtly-spiced cherry/berry fruit—raspberry/blueberry pie fresh from the oven comes to mind—along with nuances of mineral and cedar. Medium bodied, it’s dry and vibrant with a tangy texture and bright red berry flavours—raspberry and cranberry. There’s great consistency and a spice-infused, lively, fruity finish. It’s fine match now with osso bucco, or cellar for 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Bonterra Viognier 2007
Mendocino/Lake County $18.95 (128900) 13.7% alcohol
If you’re a fan of Viognier and prefer organic wines, you’ll enjoy this medium-bodied white. Marsanne and Roussane complement the Viognier offering attractive aromatics—floral, lush stone fruit, citrus rind and spice. They replay on the palate riding a wave of nervy acidity. Crisp and refreshing, it has a defining pithy citrus note on the extended finish. Enjoy it with chicken tagine. (Susan Desjardins)


Cuvaison Chardonnay 2008
Carneros, Napa Valley $26.95 (988261) 14.2% alcohol
This is gorgeous; it’s deftly balanced, mouth-watering delicious and great value. More trivia – winemaker Steven Rogstad’s bio indicates he’s from the ‘mid west’ and it’s true, he’s from…. Saskatchewan. There’s good ripe fruit on the palate with juicy, ripe pear, tropical fruit and crisp apple bolstered by racy lemon plus adornments of sweet vanilla. It’s complex and mid weight with a generous mouth feel and a lingering, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Ironstone Chardonnay 2008
California $15.95 (355776) 13.5% alcohol
Ironstone is a go-to winery for value-driven wines with character and pizzazz. Look for boatloads of hi-toned aromas and flavour with tropical fruit, pear and tangy lemon-lime to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous texture and lingering finish that replays the well-balanced and mouth-watering flavours with additional nuances of mango and honeydew melon. It’s delightful paired with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)


Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2009
California $17.95 (191593) 13.8% alcohol
This is a very attractive wine with engaging aromas of spicy tropical fruit, lemongrass and a hint of canned peas. It’s soft and easy on attack with flavours of lush tropical fruit building to a tangy citrus crescendo. Nicely balanced, it has an extended fruity finish. Pick your seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Chateau Montelena ‘Estate’ Zinfandel 2007
Calistoga, Napa Valley $36.95 (069633) 14.7% alcohol
More trivia – Chateau Montelena won the white wine class of the famous ‘Judgment of Paris’ tasting with their 1973 Alexander Valley Chardonnay. This Zin is delicious with balanced, juicy and tangy flavours void of jammy characteristics. Spice-laden berry fruit and licorice on the nose, it dishes up a gusher of juicy, tangy fruit with succulent red cherry, black plum and ripe cranberry predominant. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lingering, dry, lip-smacking aftertaste that layers on black currant and mint. (Vic Harradine)


Paul Dolan Zinfandel 2007
Mendocino County $21.95 (046342) 14.5% alcohol
Racy and refreshing, this light-medium-bodied Zin delivers a wash of fresh red cherry, spice-infused blueberry and pomegranate on the palate and aftertaste. It offers balance and a nice mouth feel and oodles of nerve and verve on the palate and finish. This is paired and poured well with spicy, meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Napa Valley $19.95 (073817) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent July 10, 2010 @ $19.95) Beautifully shaped and well paced, this Napa Cab dishes up a juicy mouthful of value-packed aroma and flavour. There’s a mélange of tastes and smells with mint-infused cherry, dark chocolate, spice and herb plus a boatload of juicy dark field-berry fruit. The well-balanced flavours glide along on a bed of silky smooth texture bolstered by supple tannin. The aftertaste lingers with juicy, dark berry fruit and spice. (Vic Harradine)


Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $84.95 (943472) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $84.95) Rich, luscious and (almost) ready to drink, it opens with dark toast and dark berry aromas along with spice and anise. The mouth-coating flavours of bramble berry, cassis and spice have a noticeable tannin structure, partially from 25 months in American oak barrels. It’s medium-full bodied, fully textured and delivers a juicy fruit-forward finish. Drinking comfortably now, after a two-hour decant, and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Meritage 2008
Napa Valley $17.95 (198283) 14.3% alcohol
Ruby-hued with violet notes, this is a full-flavoured, appealing blend composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Aromas of sweet, ripe black berry fruit, spice and vanilla tantalize. On the palate, it’s dry, round and full-bodied with fine-grained tannin, adequate acidity and a truckload of juicy, spiced, red and black fruit. Enjoy now with grilled meats or cellar 4-6 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Finca Flichman ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $12.95 (746727) 14.0% alcohol
Bistro-styled and brandishing a favourable price-quality ratio, aromas of toast and lively berry fruit roll from the glass. The flavours are rich, sweet and succulent—dark juicy berry, Bing cherry and spiced black plum. There’s good moderating acidity and enough ripe tannin for interest and structure. If this is your go-to style, pick up a few; the price is very attractive. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Julia ‘Organica’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Maipu $12.95 (68452) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from organic fruit, this straightforward wine has aromas of spicy, candied fruit and flavours of ripe black fruit, spicy toast and black pepper. It’s medium bodied, with soft tannin and acidity with a slightly peppery mid-length finish. At this price, it’ll draw a crowd. A great match with barbequed sausage or pizza. (Susan Desjardins)


Zolo ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2007
Mendoza $16.95 (81091) 14.0% alcohol
Fragrant with sweet jammy berry fruit, toast and spice, this lovely Malbec has a core of luscious, ripe, spicy, peppery black berry fruit.It’s firmly structured with ripe tannins and fresh acidity. Medium-full bodied and dry, it displays great balance on the finish adding an attractive note of charry toast. This is a good choice for flavourful meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Estampa Estate Malbec/Petite Sirah 2009
Colchagua Valley $12.95 (169938) 14.0% alcohol
The Vintages catalogue tags this an ‘exceptionally priced crowd-pleaser’; no argument from me. Dark and inky, aromas of cherry, cedar and tar segue into a nicely balanced amalgam of flavour with racy pie cherry mingling with sweet, juicy, dark field berry fruit. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced, fruity finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Carmenère 2008
Rapel Valley $17.95 (34942) 14.5% alcohol
The inky depths of the wine portend plush, dark, spiced fruit aromas and flavours—blackberry, cherry and plum. This is full bodied, sporting a velvety texture with moderating acidity keeping the fruit fresh on the palate. It’s nicely balanced with a gentle framework of ripe tannin. Tantalizing notes of sweet herbs, spice and espresso roast linger on the fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Cat Amongst The Pigeon ‘Nine Lives’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (093138) 15.0% alcohol
There’s a lot going on in this Wine of the Month selection—a gusher of rich, concentrated fruit, good balance and a delectable finish. Palate-coating, chewy flavours of juicy, black Bing cherry, red and black berry and spice abound. It’s medium-full bodied with a glorious mouth feel and a stunning, lengthy, balanced finish. Quintessentially ‘new world’ in style, it’s not overly extracted or particularly tiring on the palate. Give it a go with rack of lamb or rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Charles Cimicky ‘The Autograph’ Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (027326) 14.5% alcohol
This Cimicky Shiraz (pronounced Tsimitsky) delivers on many counts—structure, complexity and full-blown flavour. Dark, inky and almost opaque, aromas of toast and rich berry fruit segue into waves of luscious, concentrated flavour with black, juicy raspberry, kirsch liqueur and succulent mulberry mingling with sweet coconut. Other than two months of minor drip-irrigation, vines are dry grown, cover cropped and organically fertilized. Full bodied and generously textured, it dishes out a lingering succulent, fruit-forward finish underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. It’s a voluptuous wine for lovers of the style. (Vic Harradine)


Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2008
Padthaway $15.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
Attractive aromas of licorice, ripe black berries, sweet spice and vanilla waft from the glass of this lush, medium-full-bodied red blend. Dry and balanced, it has fine yet drying tannin, subtle acidity and loads of black fruit, black pepper and char on the palate. Consistent right through the finish, it’s mouthwateringly good. (Susan Desjardins)


Layer Cake Shiraz 2009
South Australia $22.95 (186197) 14.9% alcohol
There are aromas and flavours galore in this medium-full bodied, long-finishing red. Sweet succulent mulberry, black juicy plum, black currant and dark chocolate flavours flood the palate and continue through the lengthy finish. It’s medium-full bodied, gorgeously textured with good balance and lots of charm. It pours well with smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Sandalford Shiraz 2009
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (080671) 15.0% alcohol
Cherry, spice and mineral on the nose, this gets into gear on the palate with an interesting array of warm, well-balanced flavour—cassis and sweet kirsch liqueur mingling with spice-laden cranberry. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured sporting a long finish that’s balanced and fruity. Poured well on its own, it’s versatile with food, pairing easily with grilled steak, meat-laden pizza or gourmet burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Shingleback Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale $24.95 (662957) 14.5% alcohol
From this family-owned and operated property comes an opaque, inky intensely concentrated, generous wine with full, rich dark fruit aromas and interesting notes of spice, cedar and herbs. Medium-full bodied, it’s dry, fruit filled with firm tannin and tangy acidity. Dark fruit, chocolate and toast persist on the finish. A great choice for a fine cut of beef. (Susan Desjardins)


Wits End ‘Free Settler & The Convict’ Shiraz/Grenache 2008
South Australia $14.95 (186130) 14.5% alcohol
Aged in new and seasoned French oak, this violet-coloured blend offers a nose of bright berry fruit, sweet spice, licorice and vanilla. Medium-full bodied, it’s full flavoured and juicy with a soft texture and fine acidity. The palate is awash with spiced red and black berries and there’s a persistent peppery, herbal note on the lively finish. Share a bottle with friends. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Babich ‘Headwaters’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (183160) 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $19.95) Opening with a tantalizing nose of passion fruit complemented by hints of key lime; all the fruit was sourced from a 5 hectare vineyard, certified organic. It’s light-bodied with a lovely wash of racy tang—lime sherbet, white grapefruit and lemongrass—persisting throughout the mid palate and zesty, focused, succinct finish. It’s the perfect dance partner to freshly shucked briny oysters with a dash of horseradish and Tabasco. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Boekenhoutskloof ‘Porcupine Ridge’ Syrah/Viognier 2007 

WO Coastal Region $17.95 (0079442) 14.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 22, 2008 @ $19.95) With just a touch of Viognier (5%), this Syrah has lots of blackberry, mulberry, cassis, blueberry and medicinal/iodine notes on the nose. It’s dry and full bodied with fresh acidity, velvety tannins, 14.5% alcohol and pronounced, rich baked fruit, tar and dust on the palate. A great buy at under $20. (Lindsay Groves)

France: White Wine

Jean-Max Roger Sancerre ‘Cuvée G.C.’ 2008 

AOC Sancerre $26.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 12, 2008 @ $26.95) A brilliant pale yellow-green, this has lifted aromas of white peach, citrus and tantalizing herbaceous notes. It’s dry, medium bodied and silky textured with a lovely stream of tangy acidity. Look for bright fruit flavours with freshly squeezed citrus to the fore. Elegant, crisp and clean, it has a refreshing and long-lasting finish. It’s a great match for seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château de La Pierre Beaujolais-Villages 2009
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $14.95 (183707) 12.5% alcohol
Opening with a lifted nose of grapey and mixed field berry aromas, this lighter-bodied drink-me-know Gamay is well paced and well priced. Sweet, ripe strawberry, mixed spice and floral notes and juicy cherry/berry flavours abound on the palate and through the mid-length finish. It’s lively and refreshing, best served slightly chilled alongside deli platter selections, roast chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Bouchard Pére & Fils ‘Beaune du Château’ 2007
AOC Beaune $39.95 (901199) 13.0% alcohol
From a trusted producer, this dishes up a light-medium-bodied mouthful of racy, spice-infused fruit that’s underpinned by a perceptible tannin structure. Dark cherry, slate and earthy on the nose, flavours of cranberry, pie cherry and black plum are carried on a moderating wave of soft acidity. Decant for two hours and enjoy with smoked and grilled, crispy-skin duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)


Ravoire & Fils ‘Le Prieuré’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (175687) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour in this juicy, balanced gem from the outstanding, ’07, Rhône vintage. Floral, red berry and spice aromas segue into a persistent wash of flavour with juicy bramble berry, ripe black currant and racy pie cherry to the fore. It’s mid weight with a lovely mouth feel and lingering finish that’s fruity with herbal and savoury notes. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Terredora Falanghina 2008
IGT Campania $15.95 (642074) 13.0% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of orchard and tropical fruit marry with floral notes and a certain pungency. Spritzy, the wine is fresh and bright with a core of stone fruit and citrus. Dry, medium bodied and balanced with zesty acidity, it has a lasting and refreshing lemon-lime finish. Serve it with hors d’oeuvre or soft cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Giordana ‘Collection’ Nero d’Avola 2008
IGT Sicilia $15.95 (181222) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy notes and dark toast mingle with black pepper and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose. There’s good depth on the palate with rich, concentrated flavours flowing freely—black currant, pomegranate and spice-laden black plum. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it sets up a lingering finish that introduces an herbal bite and ripe tannin. This earned its final half star on value. (Vic Harradine)


Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino Do Ut Des 2007
IGT Toscana $39.95 (48827) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque and inky, this is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The fragrant aromas are ripe fruit, spicy toast and licorice. Powerful and structured with firm tannin and lively acidity, palate-washing flavours of spice and dark toast garnish ripe, red fruit. There’s lots of staying power on the toasty finish. A definite candidate for the cellar, you could serve now after a two-hour decant serving with strongly-flavoured meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Le Arche Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $34.95 (95836) 15.0% alcohol
Ripe and rich on the nose with a whiff of spicy tobacco and fruit cake, this is a round, full-bodied blend with a core of intense fruit, hints of chocolate, caramel and sweet dried fruit. With velvety tannins and a seam of fine acidity, it’s very appealing and generous on the palate. The finish is long lasting and warm, with a tangy peppery note. Most enjoyable on its own, it’s a good match for hard cheeses, nuts or dark chocolate. (Susan Desjardins)


Le Fraghe Bardolino 2008
DOC Bardolino $13.95 (181198) 12.0% alcohol
Fashioned from Corvina, one of the holy trinity of grapes from the region along with Rondinella and Molinera, this jumps from the glass with bright, lively and fresh flavours of racy pie cherry, juicy strawberry and peppery, spicy berry fruit. It’s light-medium bodied, delicately textured with a mid-length, tangy, fruity finish. Straightforward, uncomplicated and versatile with food, it pairs easily with meat-laden pizza, pasta in tomato-based sauce and deli foods like soft white cheese, spicy olives and salami. (Vic Harradine)


Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella ‘Classico Superiore’ 2007
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (999946) 13.5% alcohol
A deep ruby color, this wine offers sweet ripe aromas and multi-dimensional flavours of dried fruit, ripe cherry/berry fruit, leather, licorice and spice. It’s medium-full bodied with a velvety texture and fresh acidity. It’s nicely balanced, fruity, flavourful and well priced. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Cuatro Pasos Mencia 2008
DO Bierzo $16.95 (39313) 13.5% alcohol
From an indigenous varietal of northwestern Spain, this wine is produced from the fruit of decades-old vines and lightly aged in French and American oak. Deep purple, it’s intensely aromatic—raspberry pie to the fore with licorice, spice and a mineral note. Medium bodied, the texture is soft with quite an intense, concentrated core of red and black berry fruit, nicely balanced by fine tannin and fresh acidity. The price-quality ratio is definitely skewed in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)


Torres ‘Salmos’ 2007
DOCa Priorat $33.95 (060772) 15.0% alcohol
Balanced, nicely structured and silky smooth on the palate, this red blend—Garnacha, Syrah, Mazuelo, Cabernet Sauvignon—dishes up a lively nose of fresh red berry, spice-infused cherry and licorice. Gorgeous flavours of red cherry, succulent mulberry and black raspberry flood the palate and lingering spicy aftertaste. There’s soft moderating acidity while gentle, sweet tannin provides structure and interest. A special-occasion red delivering on all counts. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: November 13, 2010



Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (039537) 14.0% alcohol 

Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this hustles from the glass with forward aromas of spice cake, tar, fennel and black currant. Succulent flavours abound with dark juicy cherry, cassis, mocha and spice-infused black berry to the fore. It’s deftly balanced, mid weight and fully textured with a lingering dry finish of bittersweet chocolate, berry fruit and a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with marinated rare-grilled flank steak. Optimum drinking window is now to 2014. This is another tour de force by winemaker extraordinaire, Stuart Bourne. (Vic Harradine)



Shingleback ‘D-Block Reserve’ Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $54.95 (672965) 14.5% alcohol
Shiraz-lovers be warned—this complex, hand-picked, single-vineyard gem will be in extremely short supply at select stores as an ‘In Store Discovery’ product; arrive very early and pick one up. Stunning aromas and flavours coat the palate and senses—succulent mulberry, cassis, chocolate and spice-laden black berry fruit. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, it has supple tannin for carpentry, moderating acidity for balance and a sexy, lingering afterglow. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: November 27, 2010


 

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2004 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol 

This wine missed the final cut for the $100 a bottle E&E Black Pepper Shiraz by a hair—you do the math. Overflowing with exotic spice, black pepper and licorice aromas, the delectable flavours—bramble berry, black juicy cherry and spice-infused mulberry—are delivered with incredible balance and a generous texture. There’s a long finish of fruit and savoury herb wrapped in firm tannin. You could drink this now after a two-hour decant, but to do it full justice pick up three, drinking every three years beginning 2012. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Winter/Spring 2011



Barossa Valley Estate ‘E&E Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2004 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $99.95 (971705) 15.0% alcohol 

Recently retaining its ‘Outstanding’ status in the new (V) Langton’s classification, this vintage certainly lives up to the accolade. It’s rich and luscious with alluring, perfumed aromas of juicy cherry, chocolate, spice and hints of black pepper. Balanced and complex, fruit-forward flavours abound—juicy black plum, cassis, succulent mulberry mingling with nuances of bittersweet chocolate and mixed spice. It’s beautifully structured and underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. My highest compliment—it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 2011

Masi ‘Riserva di Costasera’ Amarone Classico 2005
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Italy $38.95 (317057) 15.0% alcohol
This is a special cuvée delivering an awesome tasting experience. Inky black, there are persistent, rich and complex flavours of dark cherry, kirsch liqueur and red licorice mingling with espresso roast on the palate and lengthy, nicely balanced finish. It’s full bodied, beautifully textured with a perceptible tannin underpinning. Drink now after a three-hour decant, on to 2025. Order by the case now via Brian Giles This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (Vic Harradine)

In Vintages from a previous release:

Barossa Valley Estate E Minor Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (71043) 14.0% alcohol
With winemaker Stuart Bourne’s philosophy—‘A little bit less is more’—the wine was aged 12 months in oak, with only 5-10% of the barrels less than 2 years old. The deep purple colour portends a lush, ripe medium-full-bodied red with intense aromas of spicy dark fruit and black pepper. Fine-grained tannin and perceptible acidity frame the clean fruit flavours—blackberry, plum, raspberry—which linger on the finish garnished with notes of cocoa and pepper. (Susan Desjardins)

New in LCBO Portfolio

James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mudgee & Frankland River, Australia $15.95 (187179) 14.5% alcohol
Displaying a subtle nose of red berries, spice, dark toast and kitchen herbs, this medium-full-bodied red has luscious, spiced red and black berry flavours, underlain with supple, ripe tannin and pleasing acidity. Attractive hints of charry toast and mint linger on the warm, extended finish. A good choice on a cool evening, it’s also great with pepper steak or lamb with fresh mint sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Chardonnay 2008
Mudgee & Pemberton, Australia $14.95 (187104) 12.8% alcohol
Apple, pear with hints of melon and toast on the nose, this is mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length aftertaste that’s quite crisp and refreshing. Look for citrus and orchard fruit—apple, pear and white peach—on the palate and finish. This is uncomplicated and straightforward pouring well alongside supermarket take-away, rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)


James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Pemberton, Frankland River & Mudgee, Australia $14.95 (187039) 12.5% alcohol
A bouquet of aromas drift from the glass—floral, citrus, gooseberry, nettle and a whiff of tropical fruit. On the palate, bracing acidity and tangy flavours of lemon-lime, gooseberry jam and a hint of pineapple refresh. Tangy citrus and herbal notes persist on the finish of this medium-bodied wine. A great match for fish or shellfish with a lemon sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


James Oatley ‘Tic Tok’ Shiraz 2008
Frankland River, Mudgee & McLaren Vale, Australia $15.95 (187187) 14.0% alcohol
This tri-State blend offers up an alluring nose of black licorice, spice and luscious dark berry fruit. Fully flavoured, there’s a persistent ,delectable, balanced wave of black, juicy cherry, plum and pomegranate. It’s medium-full bodied and silky smooth with a long lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s rock-solid four stars offering very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Costasera’ Amarone Classico 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Italy $38.95 (317057) 15.0% alcohol
Sourced from premium grapes grown in ideal soil, aspect and climatic conditions, this reflects its provenance and the passion of Masi to produce and preserve decades of winemaking excellence. Fig, cherry and toast on the nose, it rips from the glass with warm, full-bodied, palate-coating dark berry, plum compote and spice-laden cherry. It’s rich and concentrated with deft balance and a lovely mouth feel. It dishes up good complexity and a tell-tale Amarone bitter-sweet bite on the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Masianco’ 2009
IGT delle Venezie, Italy $14.95 (620773) 13.0% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this opens with aromas of floral, mineral and orchard fruit before washing over the palate with mid-weight, very generously textured flavours of crisp green apple and ripe, juicy pear. It finishes dry and racy with lip-smacking notes of white grapefruit and faintly honeyed tree fruit. It’s the perfect pairing with pan-seared white fish under a squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Modello’ 2009
IGT delle Venezie, Italy $10.45 (564674) 12.0% alcohol
Bistro styled and great bang for your buck, this aperitif wine really struts its stuff with seafood and lighter-styled appetizers. Look for a silky smooth mouth feel and flavours of lemongrass, minerality and tree fruit—yellow plum, spiced pear and white peach. It’s racy, dry and crisp on the palate and finish with nuances of toast in the background. (Vic Harradine)


Red Knot Shiraz 2008 

McLaren Vale, Australia $18.05 (619395) 14.0% alcohol
This is delectable and lip-smacking good with a silky-smooth texture and a lingering, fruit-forward aftertaste. Alluring aromas and flavours abound on the nose and palate with fleshy, dark berry fruit, sweet, ripe mulberry and spice-infused cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good balance and structure. Good to go now, especially with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Inniskillin ‘East West Series’ Cabernet - Shiraz 2008
Niagara, Ontario and Okanagan, British Columbia Vineyards $17.95 14.5% alcohol
Glorious aromas of black licorice, dark toast and mocha waft freely from this medium-full-bodied, balanced blend—Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz from the west and Cabernet Franc from Niagara. Sweet succulent flavours—dark berry fruit and black plum—mingle with hints of vanilla, savoury herb and perceptible tannin. Decant for two hours pouring with grilled rack of lamb. Now available at Inniskillin’s 162 Wine Rack stores across Ontario. (Vic Harradine)


Inniskillin ‘East West Series’ Merlot - Cabernet 2008
Niagara, Ontario and Okanagan, British Columbia Vineyards $17.95 14.0% alcohol
It’s a bit taut now, drink 2012 – 2016. Quiet aromas of herb, spice and berry fruit introduce a medium-bodied, nicely textured blend—61% B.C with the balance, Ontario. Delicate flavours of red and dark berry fruit and black Damson plum ride a refreshing spine of acidity throughout. The mid-length, savoury aftertaste is bolstered by a solid tannin underpinning. It’ll be perfectly paired with meat-laden pizza and pasta in tomato-based sauce. Now available at Inniskillin’s 162 Wine Rack stores across Ontario. (Vic Harradine)


Inniskillin ‘East West Series’ Riesling - Gewürztraminer 2009
Niagara, Ontario and Okanagan, British Columbia Vineyards $16.95 12.5% alcohol
Individually, these are candidates for VQA status. However, VQA has no allowance for inter-provincial blending. Lifted aromas of exotic spice, rosewater, Turkish delight with hints of minerality provide segue for a deftly balanced, delectable wash of flavour—white peach, crisp apple and ripe pear. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with an aftertaste of refreshing citrus and ripe pineapple. Lovely on its own, it pours well with spicy Asian food. Now available at Inniskillin’s 162 Wine Rack stores across Ontario. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘brickyard’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $30.20 12.5% alcohol
Lively and lifted aromas dance from this delicately textured, mid-weight Chardonnay—toast, exotic spice and mineral notes. There’s great purity of flavour with a steady stream of apple, pear and white grapefruit mingling with nuances of mineral and lime. It’s underpinned with a good spine of crisp refreshing tang and finishes mouth-watering and balanced. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 12.5% alcohol
The price and Niagara Peninsula appellation suggest ‘entry level’, the tasting suggests otherwise—it’s a crowd-pleaser with the price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Lifted aromas jump from the glass with oodles of cinnamon, cloves and mixed dark berry fruit. It’s an amalgam of mouth-watering flavours—ripe cranberry and pomegranate mingling with spice, strawberry and cherry. It’s medium bodied, generously textured with a lengthy aftertaste of sweet, succulent cherry/berry flavour. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘canadian oak’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara River $35.20 12.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas of mixed spice—cinnamon and cloves—and berry fruit jump from the glass. There’s a racy rush of tangy pie cherry and spice-infused red berry fruit on the palate with perceptible, acceptable, supple tannin. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured and dry and spicy on the mid-length aftertaste. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara River $45.20 12.5% alcohol
This 170 case small-production Pinot delivers a well-structured wash of spice, juicy fruit and sports a generous mouth feel. Delicate aromas of spice, mocha and leather provide segue for a persistent stream of boysenberry and black currant flavour mingling with cranberry and sprigs of herb and spice. It’s mid weight with a dry and tangy finish. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan