October 2, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on Aussie reds followed by a mini-feature on seven Italian reds and then the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the above format.


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

Wines of Puglia, Italy – Susan and Vic were more than pleasantly surprised at a recent tasting of wines from Puglia, Italy in Ottawa. Read Susan’s take on the region and their wines plus wine tasting reviews from her and Vic… Read More

Sonoma County Vintners Tour – Vancouver, Ottawa and Toronto are hosting public ‘Taste and Buy’ Wine Fairs featuring over 80 wines from 30-plus premium wineries with winery personnel pouring for some. Dates are, respectively, October 18, 20, 21, 2010. For date, time, location and ticket/price information… Learn more 

• Aged in Canadian oak – as promised last newsletter, look in the ‘Upstream’ section immediately following the Main Release for Lailey’s Chardonnay
• Finding Waldo – it’s a terrific Spanish red @ $15.95 earning 4½ stars

Feature: Top Reds from Down Under

Charles Cimicky ‘Trumps’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley $24.95 (27383) 14.5% alcohol
This is a big, inky, full-bodied wine with loads of dark berry, floral, vanilla, and spice aromas. Fruit is at the core of the wine—red and black berries—while the tannins are light and the acidity’s fine. The finish is long-lasting and replays fruit with underlying notes of pepper, dark toast and spice. It’s easy to drink on its own or with your favorite grilled meat. (Susan Desjardins)


Elderton ‘Command Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $89.95 (716142) 14.5% alcohol
This is glorious, showing dense and layered flavours bolstered by balance and structure with an optimum drinking window 2014 to 2020, possibly beyond. The alluring, complex nose offers up lifted aromas of black pepper, dark chocolate and exotic spice. On the palate there are waves of delectable flavour with mint-infused black cherry, succulent mulberry and spiced black plum predominant. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lengthy balanced finish of juicy ripe fruit and racy, lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)


St Hallett ‘Blackwell’ Shiraz 2008 

Barossa Valley, Australia $29.95 (166991) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $29.95) Inky dark and chockfull of delightful aromas—bramble berry, black licorice and chocolate—this is deftly balanced and brimming with flavour. Palate-coating succulent Bing cherry and ripe mulberry mingle with savoury, leafy pie cherry flavours throughout. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and dishes out a lengthy finish. It’s a lovely match poured with rare-grilled beef tenderloin and roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)


Grant Burge ‘Barossa’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $16.95 (738567) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; pick up a few. Dark,brooding,
fragrant aromas of blackberry jam and mixed spice abound. The rich and balanced flavours—black currant, plum compote and ripe mulberry mingle with spice, toast and nuances of mocha. It’s mid weight and smooth as silk throughout. The long, juicy, fruit-forward finish is underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)


Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Cabernet Sauvginon 2008
Coonawarra $17.95 (660332) 13.5% alcohol
From one of Australia’s cooler regions, this inky, estate-bottled Cab displays enticing aromas of spicy dark fruit along with mint and an elusive whiff of herbed roasted root vegetables. Deftly balanced and structured, the wine has supple tannin and a tangy texture. It offers complexity on the palate—dark spiced fruit, cassis, and notes of espresso roast with caramelized, roasted red peppers. Decant it for 2-3 hours to enjoy with rare prime rib; you can also cellar for 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Nick Faldo ‘Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Coonawarra $19.95 (001685) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque in the glass, this is a softly textured fruit-forward wine with appealing aromas of dark fruit, mint and spice. Medium bodied and round in the mouth, it has soft tannins and acidity supporting the spicy fruit. This is a crowd pleaser that’s drinking well now and won’t go amiss on the 19th tee. (Susan Desjardins)


Penley Estate ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $59.95 (701821) 15.0% alcohol
Exotic spice-infused aromas of dark berry fruit and cherry provide segue for a delightful wash of balanced, structured and delectable flavour—boysenberry, black, juicy Bing cherry and cassis melding with notes of graphite and savoury herb. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured with a lengthy finish laced with fruit, framed by good acidity and underpinned by sweet, supple tannin. Drink 2014 to 2019 alongside rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (084996) 14.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet savoury red opens with a flurry of lively aromas—sprigs of herb and spice, freshly sliced red berry fruit and nuances of lemongrass. Racy flavours abound on the palate and the mouth-watering finish—cranberry, red currant and pie cherry. It’s a natural to be poured with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Evans & Tate ‘The Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $25.95 (060186) 14.0% alcohol
A distinctive bouquet of underbrush, mint, dark berry fruit and hints of oak drift from this tangy, balanced, nicely aged Cab. There’s a steady stream of fruit flavour with red cherry, raspberry and black currant to the fore. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured dishing up a deftly balanced and lingering finish. It’s good to go now poured alongside roast beef or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Stella Bella Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2007
Margaret River $24.95 (47639) 14.0% alcohol
This delivers rich and fragrant aromas—dark berry fruit, cedar and spice. It’s dry, medium bodied with nice texture and a spine of fresh acidity from cranberry and red currant flavours. There’s a lingering, racy, toasty finish underpinned by ripe, supple tannin adorned by red cherry and spice. It ratchets up a notch with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Maxwell ‘Four Roads’ Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (057000) 14.5% alcohol
Overwhelmingly Shiraz, this blend opens with subtle aromas of mixed spice and dark berry fruit before unleashing a torrent of rich and juicy flavour on the palate—red cherry, currant and spice-laden raspberry. Mid weight and well textured, the long finish layers on dark chocolate and black currant with a solid underpinning of ripe tannin. Decant a couple of hours and pour with rare-grilled beef steak. (Vic Harradine)


Wirra Wirra ‘Church Block’ 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (024034) 14.5% alcohol
Cedar, mocha and mixed field berry on the nose, this red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz with a splash of Merlot—dishes out a racy, tangy mouthful of flavour with juicy red currant, ripe red cherry and black currant to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with a solid underpinning of supple tannin. There’s a generous mouth feel and a lengthy, juicy fruit-forward finish. After a two-hour decant, pour with spicy, smoked and grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)


Wits End ‘The Procrastinator’ 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (684100) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and inky-coloured, aromas of dark fruit and savoury spice abound. There’s a smooth and mellow delivery of cooked fruit flavours with black plum, brambly berry and red cherry predominant. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a mid-length finish. Good to go now with gourmet sausage or burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2008
Yarra Valley $29.95 (472613) 14.0% alcohol
Pale brick and semi transparent, the aromas are floral, red berry, spice and earth. The wine is dry, medium-bodied, fresh and fruity with some faint toast and white pepper notes. It’s approachable now and mouthwateringly fresh with a warm fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Yering Station ‘Little Yering’ Pinot Noir 2008
Yarra Valley $14.95 (188094) 13.5% alcohol
This is a well-priced mid-weight Pinot with engaging aromas of red cherries, field berries and undergrowth. It offers an array of flavours—red berries, spice and a light vegetal note—balanced with bright lively acidity. Fresh and lively, the red fruit flavours linger on the finish. It earned an extra ½ star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italian Feature: Big Names, Big Bucks, Big Wines

Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $28.95 (180067) 14.0% alcohol
Flirting with five stars, this is luscious, rich and powerful with touches of elegance. Given the price, it’s a must-buy for Chianti lovers. There are compelling aromas and flavours galore with black juicy Bing cherry and succulent mulberry mingling with cedar and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and deftly balanced sporting a lingering fruit-forward aftertaste subtly underpinned with a dusting of sweet tannin. Drink now to 2016. (Vic Harradine)


Ornellaia 2007
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $179.95 (722470) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—is fruit-packed, perfectly balanced with ageing potential and charm on its side. Lifted aromas suggesting sprigs of savoury herbs and spice, dark berry fruit and aromatic bitters waft from this medium-full-bodied, silky-textured gem. Concentrated,complex flavours wash the palate—cassis, black currant and mint-infused cherry—lingering on the lengthy, balanced aftertaste. There’s ripe, supple tannin and lip-smacking acidity throughout. It’s one of those near-religious tasting experiences. Drink now, after a two-hour decant, and on to 2018.


Pietro Rinaldi ‘San Cristoforo’ Barbaresco 2006
DOCG Barbaresco $44.95 (184911) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lilac, charred wood and dark berry fruit on the nose, it floods the palate with racy, mouth-watering flavours of pie cherry and rhubarb moderated by kirsch liqueur and ripe, mixed field berry. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a lingering, deftly balanced finish of mocha and ripe black plum. Aged in large French ‘Tonneau’ barrels, the oak’s been seamlessly integrated. It’s well worth taking a punt given the provenance, structure and downright delicious taste. (Vic Harradine)


Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $47.95 (413179) 16.5% alcohol
The glass-coating density is a good portent of the potent and luscious nature of this wine. Aromatic complexity and opulence characterize the nose while rich flavours of dark berries, spiced dried fruit and toasty oak abound with sweet notes reminiscent of maple syrup. Lushly textured, the wine has supple tannin and moderating acidity balancing the rich fruit. A wonderfully lengthy finish replays the exotic flavours. Hard to resist—get an extra bottle for the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified: Port

Fonseca ‘Bin 27 Fine Reserve’ Port Non-vintage

DOC Porto $16.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 23, 2010 @ $16.95) Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Lailey Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (193482) 13.0% alcohol
Slate, ripe fig and sweet apple compote on the nose, this is beautifully balanced with a lingering crisp, refreshing finish. Tropical fruit and nectarine flavours meld with racy citrus on the palate and aftertaste. It’s smooth as satin, medium-full bodied and delectable. There’s good value here and as the Vintages catalogue suggests, pick up a couple and pour with your Thanksgiving bird. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Niagara River $14.95 (127985) 13.0% alcohol
Beautiful aromatics of spicy tropical fruits and citrus set the pace for this just off-dry mid-weight wine. Racy acidity underlies the tasty spiced pear and ripe apple flavours, punctuated on the finish with a classic bitter note. A great local value. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Colio ‘CEV’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Ontario $19.95 (500454) 12.5% alcohol
From the renowned 2007 red-wine vintage, this award winner has a complex nose of red berry, vanilla and earthy, woodsy notes. Medium bodied and dry, it balances fine tannin and lively acidity with fresh red fruit—cherry, cranberry, strawberry—and light, smoky toast. It’s mouthwateringly good. Enjoy now with pork cutlets and put aside a couple of bottles for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Eastdell Estates Cabernet/Merlot 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (155705) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 9, 2010 @ $12.95) This wine is a great offering from the fabulous 2007 vintage in Niagara. The fruit was well ripened and extracted, offering an attractive nose of dark field berries and sweet spices. Medium bodied, all the components are playing well together with plummy fruit, delectable acidity and drying tannins. It has a long finish with some tasty coffee and smoky oak notes. A few bottles will go a long way on those cold winter nights! (Susan Desjardins)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Syrah 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (086553) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, berry fruit and mixed spice aromas abound on the nose while the palate’s treated to a tangy rush of gorgeous flavour with ripe fruit—black currant and pomegranate—mingling with spice-infused cherry supported by a perceptible tannin underpinning. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a drying finish. This is poured best with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire ‘Ladybug’ Rosé 2009

VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario $15.95 (559088) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $15.95) Mixed spice, mineral and red berry fruit on the nose, it serves up a delectable mouthful of tangy flavour—freshly sliced strawberry, ripe cranberry and racy ruby red grapefruit. Light-medium bodied, nicely textured and sporting a dry, crisp refreshing finish, this has the balance and structure to pair with a variety of dishes—a deli-platter, goat cheese salad or grilled salmon. Well paced, well priced and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Gold Label’ Chardonnay 2008 

Monterey County $22.95 (708305) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $22.95) With hardly a misstep from Coppola, this is flavour-packed delivering good value. Involved aromas and flavours abound with tropical fruit, white peach and ripe juicy pear predominant and consistent throughout. It’s nicely textured, deftly balanced delivering a clean crisp refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Chateau St. Jean Pinot Noir 2007
Sonoma County $29.95 (687970) 14.2% alcohol
Savoury herb and spice with berry fruit aromas, this is a tangy, balanced and juicy mouthful of well-paced Pinot. There are luscious flavours of red and black currant and ripe black cherry throughout. It’s mid weight, nicely textured dealing out a juicy, balanced aftertaste that layers on interesting nuances of aromatic bitters and spice. An inspired choice with ham, it also pours well with turkey at Thanksgiving. (Vic Harradine)


Gnarly Head ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel 2007

Lodi $16.95 (678698) 14.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 29, 2009 @ $16.95) The old "gnarly" vines that grow the fruit for this wine are free standing and head-trained (as opposed to growing on a trellis) and must therefore be harvested by hand. This helps deliver a wine with a complex nose of musty earth, dry leaves, smoke and vanilla. On the palate it has a full body, lots of fruit, tart acidity and alcohol. It's a real mouthful that leaves a long lingering cherry pie finish. A great BBQ wine that is also great value. (Dave Isaacs)


Ironstone Merlot 2008
California $15.95 (704353) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, spice and mixed field berry on the nose, this is smooth, well balanced and mellow with a lovely wash of ripe fruit flavour—mint-infused cherry and mixed dark berry—that carry through the lingering aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, with a substantial texture and underpinned by ripe, almost imperceptible, tannin then framed by soft acidity. It’s well paced and well priced from a top-notch producer; consider picking up a handful. (Vic Harradine)


Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Sonoma $19.95 (226944) 13.8% alcohol
Dense and dark, this is a nicely structured Cabernet with attractive floral aromas, cedar, spice and classic cassis. It’s dry with ripe tannin, fine acidity and ripe, spicy, dark berry flavours. Medium-full bodied and well balanced, it has a full-flavoured, mid-length finish. Good wine, good value. (Susan Desjardins)


Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel 2008
Amador County $17.95 (183178) 14.9% alcohol
This offers up funky aromas of charred oak, mixed spice and mocha along with nuances of graphite. It gets into fifth gear on the palate with a whoosh of warm, palate-coating flavour—blackberry jam, black plum compote and loads of exotic spice. It’s medium-full bodied with a round and smooth mouth feel and a balanced, lingering, fruit-forward aftertaste. It’s a unique style moving up a notch or two with food—spicy grilled ribs or pulled pork. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia Reserva’ Chardonnay 2009
Mendoza $12.95 (932368) 13.5% alcohol
Bistro-styled and brimming with fruit, the price-quality balance tips in your favour, it picked up its final ½ star on value. Look for spice and orchard fruit throughout—green apple, pear and white peach. Mid weight and fully textured, the long aftertaste is crisp and refreshing. Pour with supermarket-bought rotisserie chicken or calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (017202) 14.0% alcohol
This is uncomplicated and straightforward, look for smoke, oak and spiced berry fruit on the nose. The palate’s treated to a tangy, savoury river of flavour—red currant, pie cherry and luscious bramble berry—that replay on the lengthy, balanced finish. It has good weight and good mouth feel. This pours particularly well with food, especially pasta in tomato-based sauce or spicy ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Arboleda Carmenère 2008
DO Colchagua Valley $17.95 (46284) 13.5% alcohol
Deeply colored with a violet hue, this wine displays intense aromas—red and black berry, plum, cedar, toast and a hint of anise. It’s medium-full bodied with a rich, spicy core of dark fruit—plums, cherries, blackberries. The texture is silky, tannins are smooth and there’s a nice balance between the powerful fruit flavours and the acidity. Toasty oak, a hint of pepper and dark chocolate linger on the finish. Barbequed meats are a great match. (Susan Desjardins)


Concha Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Merlot 2007
DO Peumo, Rapel Valley $19.95 (939827) 14.5% alcohol
The involved aromas—black licorice, spice, espresso roast and plum—provide an interesting segue to a consistent stream of well-paced flavours. On the palate, there’s tangy pomegranate and red cherry moderated by hints of kirsch liqueur. This is medium bodied, well textured with a mid-length, racy and dry, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Peter Lehmann ‘Layers White’ 2009
Adelaide, South Australia $17.95 (167171) 11.0% alcohol
This blend of aromatic white grapes ladles out a perfumed nose of floral, lychee and grapey notes. It’s crisp, lively and refreshing on the palate with citrus and peach predominant. Overall, it’s balanced, beautifully textured and slightly off-dry with a crisp, clean, citrus bite on the finish. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs perfectly with prawns, pan-seared fish or mussels steamed in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Kim Crawford Dry Riesling 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626408) 12.5% alcohol
Mineral, slate, citrus and floral on the nose, this dishes out a riveting spine of tang with lemon zest, racy white grapefruit and key lime galore. It’s light-medium bodied with a crisp and refreshing aftertaste that layers on hints of white peach and ripe pineapple. This pours well with salty ham or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

Soellner Toni Grüner Veltliner 2009
Lower Austria $14.95 (184085) 12.0% alcohol
Still haven’t tried a Grüner... give this a go. Lively, sharp aromas of slate, mineral and citrus are precursor to a well-balanced, crisp and refreshing splash of racy key lime, lip-smacking white grapefruit and succulent lemon chiffon pie. The mouth-watering finish layers on nuances of Granny Smith apple and a promised perfect pairing with prawns, pan-seared fish or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)

France : Red Wine

Château de Monturon 2008
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $23.95 (171017) 12.5% alcohol
This semi-transparent, ruby-red wine delivers appealing aromas of red berry, plum, toast and a floral note. Dry, but approachable, it has ripe tannins and fruity acidity underlying red cherry/berry and spicy, toast flavours. The mouthwatering finish replays the fruit flavours along with tangy pepper and spice. It’s a fine match for lamb with a light spice rub or chicken tagine. (Susan Desjardins)


Château le Peyrat 2006
AOC Côtes du Castillon $14.95 (171090) 13.5% alcohol
A Bordeaux blend, principally Merlot, this deeply coloured red looks velvety in the glass and doesn’t disappoint on the palate. There’s a profusion of captivating aromas—cassis, cedar, forest floor and spice—leading to complexity on the palate; there are notes of black pepper, dark berry fruit, toast and char that carry through to the finish. Dry and medium-full bodied, the wine is nicely structured and balanced. Drinking well now, it’s a candidate for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Louis Jadot ‘Château des Jacques’ Moulin-À-Vent 2006
AOC Moulin-À-Vent $27.95 (700187) 13.0% alcohol
This is certainly a step up in price and a leap forward in quality from the usual offerings from Moulin- À -Vent. Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, licorice, lilac and smoky notes capture your attention. A gorgeous array of flavour spills over the palate and the lingering, balanced aftertaste—succulent mulberry, juicy black Bing cherry and racy pomegranate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and paired perfectly with your Thanksgiving bird. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (74856) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of old-vines Grenache (principally), Syrah and Mourvèdre, this is a full-bodied, intense wine with rich aromas and great depth of flavour. On the nose, it’s dark berries, earth and anise while the palate is awash in berry fruit, toast, black pepper and vanilla. It has a lovely, silky texture with some warmth on the long-lasting finish. A great investment at this price and designed for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Loosen Bros. ‘Dr. L’ Riesling 2009
QbA Mosel $13.95 (599274) 8.5% alcohol
Fresh, bright and intense aromatics of tropical and ripe orchard fruit waft from the glass. Definitively off-dry, it’s medium bodied, bright and fruity with hints of minerality, sweet spice and key-lime pie. If you enjoy a fruity low-alcohol wine, don’t hesitate. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009
DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano $15.95 (994012) 12.0% alcohol
Vernaccia is the white grape of Tuscany and this is a fine example of what it can produce. Golden hued, it has complex aromas of pear, honey, green apple, herbs and spice. Dry and medium bodied, the juicy succulent fruit is balanced with crisp acidity. The finish is very refreshing with persistent notes of citrus and green apple. Step out of your comfort zone and give it a try with antipasto. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Concilio Braide Teroldego Rotaliano 2008
DOC Teroldego Rotaliano $13.95 (989382) 12.5% alcohol
A little-known northern Italian varietal, Teroldego takes its name from its traditional method of trellising. It’s straight-up fruit forward with aromas of sweet field berry, cherry and spice. Medium bodied, the vibrant red fruit replays on the palate adorned with notes of pepper, char and spice. Bright acidity carries the fruit through the mid-length finish. It’s an easy-going wine for pizza or lasagna. (Susan Desjardins)


D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture 2006
DOC Basilicata $18.95 (971689) 13.0% alcohol
Aglianico is one of Italy’s lesser known noble varietals, producing some very potent wines. This is a good example with intense and complex aromas—animal, leather, herbs, plums and spicy, dried fruit. It’s dry, medium-full bodied and structured, displaying firm tannin and fine acidity. The flavours are deep and powerful replaying the range of fruit, herbs and spice. It lingers on the persistent, dry finish. Cellaring and /or decanting will smooth it out and the value equation is definitely in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)


Travaglini Nebbiolo 2007
DOC Coste della Sesia $17.95 (30353) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe red fruits and a tantalizing whiff of leather and spice presage a core of red fruit, vanilla and light toast on the palate. Produced from Piedmonte’s signature grape, this is a refined, dry, medium-bodied wine, nicely balanced with silky tannin and appropriate acidity. The attractive, lingering finish has hints of dried fruits and white pepper. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)


Rocca Dei Mori Salice Salentino 2006
DOC Salice Salentino $14.95 (180257) 14.0% alcohol
This is racy and bistro-styled, pairing well with selections on a deli-food platter, pasta in tomato-based sauce or spicy, meat-laden pizza. Wood smoke, coffee and hints of tobacco on the nose, there’s a riveting spine of acidity throughout with cranberry and red currant to the fore. The finish layers on hints of cassis. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (091694) 13.5% alcohol
The quiet nose begrudgingly gives up aromas of floral and spice while the expressive smooth and mellow flavours spill out willingly—pie cherry, black currant and spice-laden blueberry. It’s mid weight, deftly balanced with a dry, mouth-watering, mid-length finish that layers on wisps of oak and racy cranberry. Pour alongside Swiss steak or spicy, meat and tomato pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Rubens Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $32.95 (181040) 14.5% alcohol
Attention-grabbing aromas abound with underbrush, plum compote, and dried herb and spice galore. Plump, round and fully formed, this Rubenesque Amarone delivers a huge mouthful of racy red berry flavour balanced with gobs of juicy, jammy, black plum, dark cherry and spice-infused black currant. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering spicy aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Burgáns Albariño 2009
DO Rias Baixas $16.95 (945063) 12.5% alcohol
There are lots of interesting aromas on offer here with floral, honeyed ripe fruit and Turkish delight among them. This is fleshy in the mouth and full of flavour—white peach, honeydew melon and racy citrus—while the crisp refreshing aftertaste is lip-smacking good. Great to sip on its own or paired with lighter appetizers, seafood, chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Castilla Labastida ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (095125) 14.0% alcohol
Light-on-its-feet and mouth-watering racy, this delivers an amalgam of aromas—gamy notes, mixed field berry, spice and toast. There’s a riveting spine of acidity carried by flavours of cranberry, pomegranate, red cherry and plum. It broadens out on the mid-length aftertaste with kirsch liqueur. Pour alongside pasta puttenesca. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Juan Gil ‘Gos’ Monastrell 2009
DO Jumilla $12.95 (94888) 14.5% alcohol
Monastrell from this region of Spain has a long history and is often cultivated as a bush vine due to the intense heat and strong winds racing across the plateau. This is a nicely balanced medium-full bodied wine with great fruit flavours of red and black berries, cherries, spice and vanilla. It’s a very approachable, crowd-pleasing red with a spicy, toasty finish. It earned an extra ½ star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Migual Torres ‘Mas Borràs’ Pinot Noir 2008
DOC Penedès $29.95 (673483) 14.0% alcohol
This is a big, sumptuous single-vineyard Pinot Noir with high-toned aromas—red cherry, raspberry, earth, toast and fine herbs. There are focused fruit flavours to the fore with intriguing notes of caramel. It has a velvety texture, ripe tannin, and fine, fruity acidity that lingers on the finish. This is a premium wine that was produced with care and attention to quality and balance. (Susan Desjardins)


Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ 2008 

DOCa Rioja $15.95 (674564) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 21, 2009 @ $15.95) The price-quality ratio skews crazily in your favour; pick up an armful. The nose is expressive, graphite and black licorice and the flavours are an amalgam of black currant, espresso roast and briary berry. It’s perfectly balanced, displays good moderating acidity, is mid weight and nicely textured with a complex and lingering fruit-forward finish. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: Winter/Spring 2011

Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘canadian oak’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $25.20 12.5% alcohol
This is structured and beautifully balanced showcasing purity of fruit and touches of elegance. Fragrant spice and orchard fruit aromas meld with hints of sweet coconut. The flavours wash in waves with white peach, pear and apple adorned by nuances of sweet oak predominant. It’s mid weight with a silky smooth mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste bolstered by ripe pineapple—superb. For now, purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: April 30, 2011

Torrevento ‘Vigna Pedale’ Rosso Riserva 2006
DOC Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Balanced, dry and full bodied, this complex, flavourful gem streams like satin across the palate and lingering aftertaste. Fashioned from the Nero di Troia grape and hailing from the historic DOC of Castel del Monte, this deeply coloured red was aged 12 months in large 5000-litre French oak ‘botti’ barrels. It has lush aromas of dark berries, licorice, sweet herbs and vanilla with an underlying minerality. Structured and velvety in texture, it displays complex flavours of mocha and rich, ripe, dark fruit—blackberries and plums—with a replay of spicy, licorice notes. (Susan Desjardins)

Wines of Puglia, Italy – Susan and Vic were more than pleasantly surprised at a recent tasting of wines from Puglia, Italy in Ottawa. Read Susan’s take on the region and their wines plus wine tasting reviews from her and Vic… Read More

New in the LCBO

Don Mendoza ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza, Argentina $10.95 (127647) 13.0%alcohol
Wood smoke, spice and dark berry fruit on the nose, sweet cherry and berry fruit flavours stream across the palate mingling with savoury herbs. This is mid weight with nice texture. It finishes intensely dry with a peach-pit bite on the aftertaste. This Mevushal red—flash pasteurized and quickly cooled down so as not to damage aromas and flavours—is Kosher for Passover. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
This will find a lot of fans with its full-flavoured and generously textured approach. Toasty, caramel and orchard fruit with hints of mineral on the nose, it really delivers a mouthful of flavour with sweet nectarine, ripe, succulent white peach and refreshing, mouth-watering lemon zest to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering aftertaste of oak-tinged citrus and spice-infused white fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘inUnison’ 2008
VQA Niagara River $30.20 13.0% alcohol
This is a limited estate bottling, 170 cases, of a spanking-new blend—Syrah/Merlot with splashes of Malbec and Petit Verdot. There’s a profusion of aromas with dark berry fruit, spice-infused cherry and whiff of black pepper. It coats the palate with juicy flavours of red berry fruit and pomegranate riding a spine of lip-smacking acidity. It’s medium bodied, generously textured sporting a fabulous finish that’s well balanced and brimming with sweet succulent dark fruit flavour. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘brickyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara River $35.20 12.5% alcohol
A limited-production gem and my top pick of a fabulous Pinot tasting. An alluring nose of spice, black currant, minerality and a whisper of toast set the stage for this deftly balanced, fruit-packed gem. Palate-pleasing flavours of blueberry, dark berry fruit, cola and spice wash endlessly, riding a wave of moderating acidity and underpinned by good carpentry from supple sweet tannin. It’s mid weight, nicely textured adorned with an über-ripe, succulent, black cherry finish. Pinot-lovers will quickly scoop this up. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara River $18.20 11.5% alcohol
A perfect fall with extended ripening time, following a cool, damp summer, assisted in the development of this aromatic white. Floral, citrus and hints of honeyed fruit on the nose, this delivers a stunning mouthful of flavour with white peach, apple, mineral notes and lemon-lime to the fore. It’s balanced, lavishly textured—3 months on the lees—and finishes with flavours of sweet and tang—ripe, juicy fruit with racy moderating citrus—that pair so well with spicy Asian cuisine. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse ‘Cherry Avenue Vineyard’ Pinot Noir
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $57.95 13.0% alcohol
Celebrating its cool-climate character, this cherry red, medium-bodied Pinot has lovely bright, spicy, red fruit aromas underlaid with autumnal nuances of underbrush and earth. Dry, with perceptible tannin, it displays riveting acidity, spice-infused tangy red fruit flavours—cherry, raspberry, cranberry—and underlying mineral notes. The finish is mouthwateringly fresh and persistent. A great food wine, serve it with duck confit and roast fingerling potatoes or cellar for 2 or 3 years. Available for home or office delivery by the case from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan