September 18, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on Ontario wines followed by a mini-feature on wines from Portugal, then followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the above format. You’ll also see a ‘Go Local’ promotion of Ontario wines in all 615 LCBO stores including 1500 in-store tastings, now to October 9, 2010.


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

So, what’s new? Susan traveled to the VQA regions of Lake Erie North Shore and Niagara Peninsula in search of fledgling quality wineries just out of the spotlight and Vic was with Derek Barnett from Lailey Vineyards tasting his newest bottlings… Read more

Sonoma County Vintners Tour – Vancouver, Ottawa and Toronto are hosting public Wine Fairs featuring more than 80 wines from over 30 premium wineries and don’t be surprised if the winemaker or winery personnel pour a sample for you. Dates are, respectively, October 18, 20, 21. For date, time, location and ticket information… Read more

• Ringing the 5-star bell – there’s a fabulous California Zin in the main release and a stunning Chardonnay in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section
• Finding Waldo – it’s a Merlot earning 4½ stars @ 18.95 awarded
• Vic picks six - ‘value-for-your-money’ wines @ 4 stars, for less than $15.

1. Trivento ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008 Mendoza, Argentina $12.95
2. Vinecol ‘Organic’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
3. Foncalieu ‘La Réserve du Crouzau’ St. Gervais 2007 AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France $13.95
4. Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Short Hills Bench, Ontario $14.95
5. Carmen Vineyards ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2008 DO Colchagua, Chile $10.95
6. Torres ‘Coronas’ Tempranillo 2006 DO Catalunya, Spain $13.50

Ontario Wine Feature

Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2007

VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 29, 2009 @ $19.95) The quality-price ratio is well in your favour, pick up a few saving one or two for Thanksgiving and/or Christmas roast turkey dinner. Heavenly scented aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla bean, apple and pear waft from this medium-bodied, generously textured beauty. The mouth-filling flavours that drench the palate include sweet ripe pineapple, caramel, yellow peach and moderating citrussy zest. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089037) 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $19.95) Toast, spice and delicate aromas of pit fruit segue a rich and luscious wash of flavour with lip-smacking lemon sorbet, ripe apple compote and nuances of pineapple predominant. It’s mid weight and nicely textured. Seamlessly integrated oak, deft balance and a lingering luscious finish mark this as well made, well paced and well… delicious. Poured and paired perfectly with roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vinemount Ridge $37.00 (143974) 13.0% alcohol
An array of aromas waft from this medium-bodied, well-textured Chardonnay with pear, spice-infused peach and nutty nuances among them. There’s a persistent stream of crisp, refreshing acidity via green apple and citrus flavour. The lingering balanced finish is mouth-watering. It’s the perfect foil to pasta in creamy white sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2008 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 10.2% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 12, 2009 @ $18.95) With its breeding shining through—20+ year-old German Weis-clone vines planted on the lime- and shale-rich ‘Bench’—it delivers a racy focused mouth-watering rendition of cool-climate Riesling. Expressive aromas—key lime and steely mineral notes—segue lime-drenched mineral and lemon rind flavour. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lip-smacking bone dry finish of grapefruit tang. Only 441 cases made from this single-vineyard, 2.5 acre, estate-grown fruit—a ‘must buy’ for lovers of fine Riesling. (Vic Harradine)


Vineland Estates ‘St. Urban’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 8.7% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of lemon-lime and ripe orchard fruit mingle with mineral and petrol notes. Light-medium bodied, the wine has an almost spritzy texture attributable to lively acidity and the underlying minerality. It’s nicely balanced with a replay of stone fruit and citrus flavours on the palate and carrying through the mid-length finish. Another great example of Niagara Riesling and, from a challenging vintage. (Susan Desjardins)


Cave Spring ‘CSV Cave Spring Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (566026) 11.5% alcohol
Mineral and citrus on the nose, there’s a gusher of palate-coating flavour with lemon zest, pineapple, ripe juicy pear and spice-laden apple to the fore. It’s beautifully balanced, off dry and lip-smacking delicious. It finishes lengthy and in a blaze of sweet and tang flavour—lemon-lime, minerality and juicy yellow peach. Lovely sipped as an aperitif, it pours well with spicy Asian cuisine, as well. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228) 12.5% alcohol
Produced from estate-grown fruit using sustainable agriculture methods, this wine has complex vibrant aromas of petrol, mineral, stone fruit and citrus. Mid weight on the palate, it offers appetizing sweet fruit with lively acidity and crisp minerality. Tangy fruit lingers on the flavourful extended finish. And, it’s very reasonably priced. (Susan Desjardins)


Norman Hardie ‘County’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $35.20 (125310) 11.5% alcohol
The semi-transparent bright ruby hue portends the subtle red berry and cherry aromas, underlaid with earthy notes of beetroot. Crisp and fresh on the palate, the wine is light-medium bodied with lively minerality and a firm backbone of acidity—mouth-watering cranberries, raspberries, pomegranate. With these vibrant flavours, it’s a great wine to consider with baked Brie and mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)


Wayne Gretzky No.99 ‘Estate Series’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (129056) 12.5% alcohol
There’s some interesting complexity on the nose of this wine—floral, earthy and herbal notes along with ripe, spicy red fruit aromas. Tending to medium body, it displays firm tannin and lively acidity. There’s an underlying earthiness and sweet herbal notes that complement the concentrated raspberry compote flavours. Well priced, it’s approachable enough to sip and would be a nice match for duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)


Lailey Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (591404) 13.0% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby, this medium-bodied wine has subtle aromas of spicy, tangy red berries. There’s a lovely balance between the vibrant acidity, fine tannin and fresh ripe summer fruit flavours—cherry, raspberry, cranberry—that bathe the palate and carry through the appealing and long-lasting finish. Serve with pan-seared salmon or herbed grilled pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Méthode Classique’ 2005 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (587691) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 7, 2010 @ $19.95) Hand crafted in the image of vintage Champagne, this limited-release, bronze-hued beauty is crisp and refreshing throughout with an endless profusion of fine-bead bubbles. The honeyed pear, biscuit and apricot bouquet segues well-balanced apple, citrus and melon flavours gently mingling with delicious moderating tang. It’s silky smooth with a long mouth-watering aftertaste and offers a world of value. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2005 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (544791) 200 mL 10.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $24.95) This pours 18K yellow gold in the glass with lifted alluring aromas of toffee, spice cake and treacle. From 25-year-old vines, this delivers a stunning mouthful of flavour with spiced pear, honeyed mango and spice-infused apfelkuchen (German apple cake) to the fore. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured delivering a monumental aftertaste that’s balanced and mouth-watering delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Ziraldo Estate Riesling Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.00 (149609) 8.0% alcohol
Produced by Niagara wine pioneer, Don Ziraldo, final vinification was supervised by long-time Inniskillin winemaker, Karl Kaiser. Bright, glass-coating and golden, it has intense aromatics of stone and tropical fruit, honey and a hint of citrus. It’s richly textured with great intensity. It’s sweet, but balanced—apricot jam with zesty lemon. The finish is rich, luscious and refreshing. Great on its own or poured with Ontario artisan cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)

Portuguese Wine Feature

Quinta do Crasto ‘Old Vines Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro $34.95 (990572) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque and highly aromatic, this is a blend of 25-30 different varieties from vines over 70 years old. It entices with aromas of red and black berries, cherries and spice. Lush dense fruit flavours flood the palate, balanced by fresh acidity and fine tannin. Sleek and smooth in texture, it has a mouth-watering finish with notes of toast and white pepper underlying the abundant fruit. A good match with roasted meat, it may be cellared for 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Quinta Dos Aciprestes ‘Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro $21.95 (167627) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and luscious aromas and flavours abound in this medium-full bodied generously textured keeper. Aromas of dark fruit cake spice and raisins precede a lovely wash of flavour with concentrated dark berry fruit, espresso roast and exotic spice predominant. It’s underlain with perceptible tannin and framed by good moderating acidity. Drink after a three-hour decant and serve with hearty fare—osso bucco or boeuf stroganoff. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta do Tedo Vinho Tinto 2007
DOC Douro $17.95 (170217) 14.0% alcohol
Complex and alluring floral and ripe spicy fruit aromas herald a medium-full bodied red produced from an estate-grown blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. It’s richly textured with firm but approachable tannin, fruity acidity and oodles of ripe fruit on the palate—red and black berries and cherries. Attractive notes of spicy toast and dark chocolate persist on the finish. An award-winning wine, it’s a bargain at the price. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

Blandy's ‘5-Year-Old’ Bual 

Madeira, Portugal $21.95 (011049) 19.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 25, 2006 @ $21.95) After fermentation, the wines, now in casks, are subjected to high heat, 35 to 60°C, in buildings called estufas. This causes the wine to oxidize aka maderize, turn a tawny colour and develop aromas akin to Sherry. Bual is a grape producing a medium-rich wine. Caramel in colour, this emits tantalizing aromas of orange blossom and almonds. It is light to medium-bodied, warm, off dry and spicy. The lengthy and well balanced finish cries out for a match with consommé or warm oven-toasted almonds. Serve chilled. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Landmark ‘Overlook’ Chardonnay 2008
Sonoma County & Santa Barbara County $32.95 (356501) 14.2% alcohol
Toast and spicy notes mingle with orchard fruit on the lifted nose. Moving into high gear on the palate, it delivers a mouthful of pure fruit and well-balanced flavour—spice-laden green apple, ripe succulent Bosc pear and juicy yellow peach. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering and well-balanced aftertaste. Pour alongside roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)


Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Karia’ Chardonnay 2007
Napa Valley $37.95 (54585) 14.7% alcohol
Displaying lifted aromas of tree fruit, vanilla and toast, this wine is full bodied with a creamy mouth-filling texture and succulent flavours of pears, baked apple and orange zest. It’s opulent and well balanced, with toasty notes of well-integrated oak lingering on the finish. A treasure! (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Benziger Syrah 2006
North Coast $19.95 (067215) 14.5% alcohol
Dark plum, mocha and savoury spice aromas abound on the lifted nose while the palate’s treated to a wave of balanced flavours—mulberry, savoury red cherry, and nuances of dark chocolate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a dry mid-length finish that layers on hints of cherry supported by a ripe tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)


Ferrari-Carano ‘Trésor’ 2006
Sonoma County $59.95 (928150) 14.8% alcohol
This is a luscious red blend that’s deftly balanced, medium-full bodied and flavour-packed. Opaque in the glass, it rolls over the palate in waves with black currant, racy red cherry and blueberry mingling with hints of oak and espresso roast. The satin-smooth lengthy finish sports minty cherry and mocha flavour supported by fine-grained tannin. Better after a two-hour decant and paired with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol
Displaying great depth of colour, this is a fruit-forward wine with high-tone aromas of ripe berries and plums. It’s dry, full bodied, round and silky smooth. Soft tannins and fine acidity frame the enticingly full flavours of blue and black berries, vanilla and toast. Nicely balanced, it offers a lingering fruit-filled finish. A nice match with a choice cut of beef. (Susan Desjardins)


Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $19.95 (025106) 14.5% alcohol
Savoury spice and red berry fruit aromas roll from this bistro-styled red. It’s tangy and racy with pie cherry and cranberry filling the palate and riding a good spine of acidity. Medium bodied and well textured, it delivers a dry finish layering on nuances of mocha and fennel. Pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


La Crema Pinot Noir 2008
Sonoma Coast $16.95 (732040) 375 mL 13.9% alcohol
Mixed spice, cola, savoury herb and berry fruit dominate the aromas in this conventiently sized half bottle. Light-medium weight and delicately textured, it delivers dry, spirited flavours of pomegranate and Montmorency cherry. It finishes lip-smacking and lengthy. Perfectly paired with chicken cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)


Seghesio Family Vineyards ‘Home Ranch’ Zinfandel 2008 

Alexander Valley $44.95 (70391) 15.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $45.95) This is a ripper; lifted aromas of mixed spice, black pepper, dark field berry and notes of mineral peel off the nose of this complex and beautifully structured red. Waves of flavour wash over the palate with juicy boysenberry, succulent black cherry and tangy black raspberry predominant—this vineyard was planted in 1895. It’s full bodied dense and concentrated with excellent texture and a lingering balanced lip-smacking aftertaste layering on ripe supple tannin, moderating acidity and sprigs of spice mingling with dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $24.95 (025122) 14.3% alcohol
Perfumed and flavour-packed, it delivers a mouthful of fairly complex Napa Cab that builds aromas and flavour in the glass and on the palate. Sharp aromas of spice and racy fruit segue into a persistent wash of flavour with juicy black berry, tangy red cherry and spice-laden black currant to the fore. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a spicy finish that’s underlain with a solid tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Benmarco Malbec 2008
Mendoza $17.95 (657601) 14.0% alcohol
On the nose there’s an abundance of smoke and red berry fruit aromas adorned with exotic spice and herbs. There’s an uncomplicated balanced stream of juicy cherry/berry flavour on the palate underlain with supple tannin and framed by moderating spicy acidity. Good to go now with meat-laden pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)


Trivento ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $12.95 (974469) 14.0% alcohol
This is brimming with fruit and nicely balanced, earning its final ½ star on value—the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; pick up a few. Quiet aromas of spice, tar and berry fruit drift from the nose before dishing out a gorgeous gusher of fruit—red and black mixed berry fruit and black juicy cherry. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a long balanced juicy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Vinecol ‘Organic’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (167270) 13.0% alcohol
Deep ruby red, this is a dry, fruit-forward wine with appealing aromas of red and black berries, plums and spice. It’s medium-full bodied with a replay of the fruit on the palate along with hints of spice and pepper. The fruit is framed by ripe tannins and fresh acidity that delivers a mouth-watering spicy fruit finish. Nicely balanced, it gets an extra ½ star for value. Buy a few bottles to share with friends. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

Robert Oatley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Pemberton, Western Australia $17.95 (186106) 12.2% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 21, 2010 @ $17.95) A fairly new wine region, Pemberton’s searching for its site and varietal strengths. This provides a lovely fusion of ripe tropical fruit along with good racy crispness on both the nose and the palate. Pear, spice and melon aromas provide segue to a mid-weight nicely textured stream of fruit flavour with lemon-lime and pineapple to the fore. It cleans up refreshing and tangy, pairing well with pan-seared or grilled fish. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz 2007 

McLaren Vale, Australia $11.95 (180430) 375 mL 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent (750 mL) November 21, 2009) Rich and flavourful, smooth and compelling, this is downright delicious. Aromas of mixed spice, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate rip off the glass while concentrated flavours of bramble berry, juicy Bing cherry and ripe cranberry wash over the palate in waves. It’s medium to full bodied, beautifully textured and sports a lengthy, balanced and fruit-filled finish. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)


Wirra Wirra ‘Scrubby Rise’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot 2008
South Australia $15.95 (187765) 14.5% alcohol
Straightforward, uncomplicated and replete with sweet succulent flavour that’s apparent throughout, it’s a crowd-pleaser at a decent price. Cherry cordial, red licorice and raspberry jam coat the palate and infuse the lengthy finish. Its mid weight and nicely textured pairing well with smoked, grilled back ribs coated with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Merlot 2009
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (692343) 13.5% alcohol
We both loved this; Susan suggests picking up a case. Ruby red with a light violet hue, this well-balanced red has a subtle nose of earthiness, spice and black currant. Silky textured and wonderfully balanced, it delivers a wash of persistent vibrant flavour—racy pomegranate, red cherry and raspberry—adorned with hints of spice, soft fine-grained tannin and good moderating acidity. It finishes mid length with spice-infused black raspberry. (Vic Harradine)

Cyprus: White Wine

Kamanterena Xynisteri 2008
Paphos $11.95 (179911) 12.0% alcohol
Looking for an easy-to-drink unusual aperitif for a gathering of friends? Consider this wine produced by the SODAP cooperative. The grape Xynisteri is considered to have originated in Cyprus and is used in the production of Commandaria. Medium bodied, it’s straightforward, round and juicy with bright aromas and flavours of citrus and tree fruit. Serve it with seafood, either appetizer or main. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Domaine Charles Sparr ‘Tradition’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace $16.95 (176933) 12.5% alcohol
Dry and mid weight, this beautifully balanced award-winning Riesling proffers enticing aromas of spicy juicy orchard fruit and honeyed citrus. Silky in texture, it has lively acidity and appealing tangy flavours of apricot and lemon-lime with underlying mineral notes that carry through the mid-length finish. A great taste experience and great value. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine de Saint-Pierre Sancerre 2008
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (170258) 13.0% alcohol
A delicate bouquet of classic aromas lifts from the glass of this award-winning white—citrus, stone fruit, mineral notes and fresh snap peas. Mid weight, it has a zesty, silky texture with a fine balance of fruit and acidity. The crisp refreshing flavours suffuse the palate creating a lasting finish. It’s ideally paired with goat cheese on crostini or white fish with a caper-based garnish. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Toumilon 2005
AOC Graves $21.95 (177030) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced and well priced, it’ll benefit from a two-hour decant and being poured with a rare-grilled slab of beef. The aromas are particularly exotic and perfumed with an amalgam of dark berry fruit, Asian spice, underbrush and cedar. The flavours wash in waves with red currant, black berry and mint-infused cherry and nuances of espresso roast predominant. There’s perceptible tannin on the dry lengthy aftertaste. Very good value offered here. (Vic Harradine)


Clos Laborie 2006
AOC Margaux $33.95 (091454) 13.2% alcohol
From a propery that’s 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, this dishes out a beautifully paced mouthful of well-structured, mid-weight luscious red wine that will benefit from decanting and rare-grilled beef. Rich succulent flavours of cassis, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused chocolate-dipped cherries persist throughout. Not overblown, each sip’s as good or better than the one before—high praise in today’s hi-octane wine world. (Vic Harradine)


Château Remaury ‘Grande Réserve’ Minervois 2007
AOC Minervois $13.95 (181339) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, delicious and bistro-styled, aromas of spice-infused dark berry fruit, gamy notes and garrigue abound. It’s light-bodied and balanced displaying crisp and dry flavours of dried crushed currants and espresso roast that are consistent through the mid-length aftertaste. Pour now with steak et frites. (Vic Harradine)


Foncalieu ‘La Réserve du Crouzau’ St. Gervais 2007 

AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $13.95 (142943) 15.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 23, 2010 @ $14.95 ) The inky black color suggests very ripe and highly extracted fruit. The lush aromas of cassis and black berry set a theme that persists throughout with plush jammy fruit, vanilla and spice—and everything nice—on the palate. Despite the high alcohol, the wine has quite good balance and structure. The finish is long, toasty and somewhat dry. At this attractive price you can enjoy a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Greece: Red Wine

Estate Papaioannou ‘Single Vineyard’ Agiorgitiko 2006
V.Q.P.R.D. Nemea $17.95 (047977) 12.5% alcohol
If you’re surfing around for something different, good value and delicious, I recommend this. Mocha, leather and spice on the nose, it dishes up a lively mouthful of balanced flavour—red cherry, black currant and spice-infused black raspberry. It’s mid weight, nicely textured delivering a lovely aftertaste that replays fruit from the palate underpinned by dark bitter-sweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Fontanafredda ‘Gavi Del Comune Di Gavi’ 2009
DOCG Gavi $15.95 (075440) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and ripe tree fruit aromas provide a lovely segue to this inexpensive quaffable Gavi. It’s fleshy and smooth with succulent flavours of white peach and nectarine. It’s light bodied, delicately textured and slightly off dry with a fruit-forward aftertaste. Sips well on its own and can be paired with lighter appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

G.D. Vajra ‘Albe’ Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (179879) 14.5% alcohol
This is a very gracious approachable wine, with subtle aromas of fresh red fruit, vanilla and some floral notes. It’s medium bodied with a smooth texture, ripe tannins and fresh acidity. There’s a core of red fruit flavour—cherry, cranberry, raspberry and an impressive long-lasting finish. Delectable now, it may be aged for 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


Pietro Rinaldi ‘Madonna di Como’ Dolcetto d’Alba 2008 

DOC Dolcetto d’Alba $16.95 (182261) 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 12, 2010 @ $17.95 ) This family-owned estate has been producing wines in Piemonte since 1920. Ruby with a purple tint, it saw no oak. It displays quite complex aromas of forest floor, spicy flowers, sweet herbs and fresh red fruits. Mid weight and dry, it has a fresh spine of acidity and ripe tannins overlaid with lashings of red fruit—cherry, red currant and raspberry. The finish is long and tangy with an elusive earthy note. A great food wine, serve it with tomato-based dishes or meats with a tomato-based BBQ sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 (378257) 13.5% alcohol
A semi-transparent mahogany, this is an elegant wine offering a whiff of vanilla and enticing floral and mixed berry aromas. Medium-full bodied, it displays complexity and depth on the palate—intense fruit, hints of spicy toast and earthiness marry to create a fabulous, lingering taste experience. It’s finely textured and beautifully balanced—just what you’d expect. (Susan Desjardins)


Banfi ‘Centine’ 2007
IGT Toscana $16.95 (947440) 13.5% alcohol
If you’re looking for great value, here it is. Dry and full bodied, this blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a complex array of aromas—floral, dense dark fruit, earth, anise and leather. Firm tannin and lively acidity balance the rich spicy fruit on the palate. It finishes with a flourish. Don’t miss out—enjoy it now with Tuscan steak, and cellar a few bottles for 3-5 years. It earns an extra ½ star for value. (Susan Desjardins)


Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (176776) 13.5% alcohol
Expect floral, spice box and black plum aromas from this tangy, racy Sangiovese. There’s a nice mouthful of rich, concentrated flavour with spice-infused black berry and racy pie cherry predominant. The dry, mouth-watering finish lingers. Give this a go with pizza or pasta in spicy tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Viticcio Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $34.95 (599308) 13.5% alcohol
A step up in price and a leap forward in quality, this is worth every penny; it’s marvelous. Mocha, espresso roast and dark berry fruit on the nose, it coats the palate with rich, balanced and concentrated flavour—spiced red raspberry and racy cranberry juxtaposed with sweet cassis and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied with a nice mouth feel while the aftertaste is delectable and lingering. Good to go now alongside veal scallopini with sun-dried tomatoes. (Vic Harradine)


Monte Zovo ‘Sa’ Solin’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2008
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (650713) 14.5% alcohol
This is a perennial favorite with its full-flavored, full-bodied, fruity character. It’s dry, but round with velvety tannins and fine acidity balancing the full-bore fruit flavours—cherry, raspberry and ripe cranberry. Attractive notes of toast, pepper and spice linger on the finish. As the cooler weather approaches, it’ll match well with hearty meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Beronia ‘Reserva’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (050203) 13.6% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, the aromas of espresso roast, fennel, mixed spice and field berry fruit abound. The sweet juicy flavours wash over the palate and aftertaste—black juicy Bing cherry and sweet succulent mulberry underpinned by sweet tannin and framed by moderating acidity. Mid weight and nicely textured, the finish layers on hints of truffles and sprigs of savoury herbs. (Vic Harradine)


Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Pétalos’ 2008
DO Bierzo $21.95 (675207) 14.0% alcohol
Violet-hued and produced from the fruit of old vines using biodynamic methods, this is a nicely structured approachable medium-full bodied wine with subtle berry, spice and floral aromas. With a fresh texture and ripe tannin, it offers mouth-filling fruit flavours and a strong peppery note that lingers on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release: October 30, 2010

Carmen Vineyards ‘Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2008
DO Casablanca, Chile $14.95 (961276) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this flagship ‘Gran Reserva’ tips well in your favour. Alluring aromas of green apple, spiced white peach and toasty, mineral notes are replayed as flavours on the palate. It’s mid weight, generously textured, almost buttery, with a well-balanced, refreshing aftertaste of ripe tropical fruit, lip-smacking citrus and a wisp of seamlessly integrated French oak. Pick up more than one. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir ‘Reserve’ 2007
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
This delivers an expressive array of intense aromas with toasty oak, black currant jam and exotic spice predominant. Fruit-forward—dark berry and pomegranate—and laced with racy spice-infused tang, this medium-full bodied, nicely textured gem coats the palate in generous waves. Ripe supple tannin provides carpentry while the lingering finish is deftly balanced and lip-smacking good. Drink now to 2016 poured with smoked and grilled back or side ribs. It’s a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (430546) 12.5% alcohol
Look for this Vintages Essentials product to be always available in select stores. Tropical fruit, yellow peach and nectarine on the nose, this delivers a lovely wash of crisp, refreshing flavour with gooseberry and citrus mingling with nuances of sweet orchard fruit. Mid weight and well textured, it sports a well-defined aftertaste of white peach and racy lemon zest. Paired perfectly with goat cheese crumbled over mesclun salad drizzled with verjus or pan-seared prawns or fish. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Carmen Vineyards ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2008
DO Colchagua, Chile $10.95 (169052) 14.0% alcohol
This is fruit filled and balanced, punching well above the price and offering great value. Deep purple, almost opaque, aromas of spice, vanilla and black currant waft freely. It brims with rich luscious flavours of ripe mulberry, black juicy cherry and mocha. The deftly balanced finish lingers with a wisp of oak and a glorious array of dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Carmen Vineyards ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
DO Maipo Alto, Chile $17.05 (358309) 14.0% alcohol
Look for delicate aromas of bramble berry, spice notes and wood smoke. Rich, elegant flavours of black currant and mint-laden black cherry coat the palate framed by moderating acidity underpinned by ripe, sweet tannin. Medium bodied with a generous mouth feel, it finishes dry and balanced. Low-yielding, hand-picked fruit and scrupulous site selection coalesce in this flagship red. (Vic Harradine)


Torres ‘Coronas’ Tempranillo 2006
DO Catalunya, Spain $13.50 (29728) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lilac, crushed dark berry and red licorice open this value-packed red—the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. Ripe succulent fruit flavours wash over the palate of this medium bodied gem with mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and spiced black currant predominant. This is smooth as satin and über approachable with a lengthy finish that’s balanced, warm and fruity. (Vic Harradine)


Flourish Chardonnay – Viognier 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (192658) 12.6% alcohol
Spice and floral on the nose, this sports a wash of apple and pear on the palate with hints of apple compote on the short finish. Its light-medium bodied with a lacy texture. Pour on its own as an aperitif or alongside lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Flourish Merlot – Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (192658) 11.8% alcohol
The lifted nose delivers spice-packed aromas of mixed field berry fruit. On the palate the flavours are sweet and distinctive—black currant and racy, drying blueberry. The after taste is consistent, replaying flavour from the palate and finishing quite dry. Pour well alongside spicy back ribs. (Vic Harradine)


Flourish Riesling – Vidal 2009
VQA Ontario $10.95 (192492) 11.0% alcohol
Floral, spice and orchard fruit aromas on the nose, the flavours are sweet and succulent—apricot, apple and pear underpinned by tropical fruit—balanced on the brief aftertaste with notes of spicy citrus. It’s light-bodied and delicately textured making it a perfect sipping wine. Serve well chilled. (Vic Harradine)


Fonseca ‘Bin 27 Fine Reserve’ Port Non-vintage

DOC Porto $16.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol

Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

D’Angelo Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.00 14.0% alcohol
Light brick in color, this award-winning wine has lifted aromas of berry pie and sweet roasted red pepper with an underlying earthy note. It’s nicely structured, with fresh acidity, soft silky tannin, red berry flavours and a whiff of white pepper. Medium bodied, it has a refreshing extended finish with a hint of toast. A great food wine, try it with grilled salmon. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)


D’Angelo Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.00 13.5% alcohol
Another medal winner, this Cabernet Franc displays some classic herbal notes along with aromas of plum and lively red fruit. It’s dry, medium bodied, with firm tannins and fresh acidity. Notes of toast and dark chocolate garnish a core of ripe red fruit, carrying through on the extended finish. Enjoy with grilled meats or vegetables. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)


D’Angelo ‘Old Vines’ Marechal Foch 2002
VQA Ontario $15.00 14.0% alcohol
Foch is no longer common in Ontario, making this intensely inky wine well worth trying. It has complex aromas—plum, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, dark berries and light herbal notes. Medium-full bodied, it’s balanced and smooth with the flavours replaying the complex aromas. The wine is nicely integrated with silky tannins and soft acidity. The integrity of the aromas and flavours is evident on the extended finish, a lingering essence of dark stone fruit, char and sweet herbs. Great with steak or game. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘Old Vines’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $40.20 12.5% alcohol
From 32-year-old vines, hand picked and barrel fermented, this limited-production gem is elegant, structured and brimming with deftly balanced flavour adorned by seamlessly integrated seasoned oak. Alluring aromas of mixed spice, peel marmalade and orchard fruit segue into a striking palate-coating array of flavours—white peach, ripe pear and luscious pineapple. It’s medium-full bodied, satin smooth with a lingering aftertaste. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, looks for flint and mineral characteristics to develop over the next 5 years. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘Meritage’ 2008
VQA Niagara River $25.20 12.5% alcohol
A fairly even split between Merlot and the two Cabs, this is value-packed, incredibly rich and concentrated with excellent structure and fabulous flavour; what’s not to like? Succulent mulberry, luscious black currant and spice-infused cherry wash over the palate in waves; it’s a medium-bodied nicely textured gem. The oak and ripe, supple tannin are seamlessly integrated and the aftertaste lingers. About as good as it gets around here. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara River $20.20 12.5% alcohol
Nestled beside the Niagara River, this tiny ¾-acre block produced only 90 cases of fabulous wine. With the slightest hint of grass on the nose, along with apple and pear, this blossoms on the palate with waves of luscious flavour—key lime, minerality, peach and pear. Barrel fermented and lees stirred, the texture is full on and smooth as silk. The crisp, deftly balanced finish is lip-smacking lengthy. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Wines Syrah 2008
VQA Niagara River $27.20 12.5% alcohol
This is a classy Côte-Rôtie-styled gem that’s complex, value packed and brimming with flavour. Alluring aromas of lilac, underbrush and peppery, gamy notes segue into a persistent, balanced wash of endless flavour—succulent mulberry, racy red cherry and spice-infused currant. It’s medium weight, generously textured and underpinned by a sweet tannin structure. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Pondview Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 12.5% alcohol
Just off-dry, this silky smooth Riesling has aromas and flavours of ripe orchard fruit underlaid with vibrant lemon-lime acidity and a light mineral note. It’s well balanced, zesty and fruity, with a lasting fresh finish. Great with lake perch and a squeeze of lemon. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)


Pondview Cabernet Franc Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 12.7% alcohol
Produced from a block of vines specifically set aside to create rosé, the wine was fermented dry in stainless steel, kissed with a touch of Cabernet Franc ice wine. This rosé has great salmon-pink color and packs a punch! Sweet spicy red berry aromas and flavors captivate—raspberry, strawberry and ripe cranberry. Smooth but crisp and vibrant, it has great texture and presence on the palate. The bright fruity finish keeps you coming back for more. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)


Pondview Unoaked Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 14.3% alcohol
Pale gold, this wine was fermented in stainless steel and spent 6 months on the lees. It’s aromatically intense, reminiscent of ripe pears and spicy apples. Medium-bodied and creamy, there’s a vibrant backbone of citrusy acidity. A hint of brioche mingles with the fresh citrus on the lengthy finish. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)


Viewpointe ‘Colchester Cuvée Premiere Vintage’ 2008
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $16.95 13.3% alcohol
Produced using organic methods, this wine is a blend of three sustainable and cold-hardy cultivars, aged in oak for 10 months. A deep violet hue, the aromas are rich, sweet dark berry fruit. It’s smooth, medium bodied and full flavored. Ripe berry flavours are framed by fine tannin and lively acidity. The lingering fruity finish is mid length, with hints of pepper and dark chocolate. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)


Viewpointe ‘Fine Pointe’ Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 12.7% alcohol
Aged twenty-four months in French oak, this semi-transparent wine has classic earthy, barnyard and pie cherry aromas with an elusive herbal note. It’s light-medium bodied and silky with fine tannins a spine of racy acidity and bright red cherry/berry flavours. Hints of light spice and white pepper underlay the fresh red fruit on the extended finish. Enjoy it with duck confit. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)


Viewpointe Riesling 2006
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $13.95 12.5% alcohol
Bright and golden, this wine entices with aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Dancing lightly on the palate, it’s zesty and fresh with vibrant flavours of citrus and green apple. There’s a mineral note on the crisp, refreshing finish. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan