Craneford Chardonnay 2002
Adelaide Hills $15.95 (650911)
With a complex basket of fruit (peach, pear, tropical, citrus) in the flavours, balanced with crisp acidity and a rich, creamy texture, this is a very attractive Chardonnay made moreso by the good price. The 14% alcohol is well integrated, and this makes a fine partner for richer chicken and pork dishes. (RP)


Starvedog Lane Chardonnay 2001
Adelaide Hills $25.95 (651356)
You'd think a Chardonnay carrying this name would be lean, but this is good-bodied, with plump tropical and peach flavours and hints of vanilla from the oak. The texture is sleek and it finishes well. Still a puppy after four years, this can be kennelled for another four or five. Lap this up with a bowl of herbed roasted chicken. (RP)


Heartland Viognier-Pinot Gris 2004
Langhorne Creek $17.95 (651364)
An unusual blend that other producers are bound to try, now that they can see how successful this wine is. It has a lovely crisp texture and attractive floral, spice, peach and apricot notes in the aromas and flavour. Well balanced and with a smooth texture, it's an ideal wine for spicy Asian cuisine. (RP)




Leasingham "Bin 56" Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Clare Valley $24.95 (595504)
A totally delicious Cab. It's all dark, concentrated fruit, well-focused with all the complexity you expect from well-made Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are sweet and ripe, the texture is elegant, and the long finish carries the rich fruit through to the end. All in all, an excellent wine and a great partner for rich red meat dishes. Drink now or in the next three or four years. (RP)


d'Arenberg "The Bonsai Vine" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2001
McLaren Vale $25.95 (590380)
A bruiser of a wine: big and bold with concentrated dark fruit (black plum, cherry, blackberry) and spicy accents. It has good texture-smooth but assertive-with very firm tannins that you can tame with a rare-grilled steak. Alternatively, cellar it for another four or five years. (RP)


Taltarni Shiraz 2001
Pyrenees $22.95 (937219)
A very attractive style of Shiraz, not an in-your-face fruit-bomb but a powerfully elegant red with rich, dark fruit and berry and accents of coffee and pepper. It's well focused with sleek tannins and a fine, long finish. Beautifully made, and an excellent partner to grilled rack of lamb or roast game. (RP)


Seppelt "Chalambar" Shiraz 2000
Victoria $24.95 (594903)
This Shiraz shows what can be achieved by multi-regional blending: the grapes were sourced from three different regions with varying growing conditions. In the hands of winemaker Arthur O'Connor, they make an exceptionally well-balanced and structured Shiraz, with a core of pure dark fruit at its centre. Look for finely-tuned flavours of black plum and blackberry with spice and pepper nuances. The tannins are light and sweet, and the spicy finish is long. This is an elegant, classy Shiraz that you can drink now (with well-herbed lamb) or keep to the end of the decade. (RP)


Lindemans Reserve Merlot 2002
South Australia $15.95 (588715)
A medium-bodied Merlot with very attractive dark fruit aromas and excellent ripe fruit flavours that don't cross the line to the jammy zone. Well-balanced, approachably tannic, with a good fruity finish, this is just very well made, and represents excellent value. Pair it up with well-herbed red meat dishes, and tuck a few bottles away for three to five more years. (RP)


Katnook Estate Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra $29.95 (938225)
An elegant Shiraz, in the winning style wine-lovers have come to expect from Katnook. Look for concentrated dark fruit (black plum, cherry) with notes of spice and mint, firm tannins and a lengthy finish-everything you want in a classy Shiraz. Lock this one up for four or five years, then open it and decant it as you're preparing some well-seasoned red meat for the grill or barbecue. (RP)



Sileni Estates "Cellar Selection" Chardonnay 2003
East Coast $14.95 (651794)
This Burgundian-style Chard is derived from hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed fruit from Hawke's Bay and Gisborne. A leesy nose from the deftly-handled oak maturation sets the stage for the medium- to full-bodied palate of stone fruit, citrus and toasted almonds. Incredible finesse and structure for a wine at this price-point. The finish is clean and well balanced with peaches predominant. Stock up for the summer. This is a winecurrent exceptional value pick. (VH)


Wither Hills Chardonnay 2002
Marlborough $24.95 (925420)
This is an amazing Chardonnay, with luscious, complex fruit (peach, pear, pink grapefruit) and a plush, smooth, rich texture. The 14% alcohol makes a positive contribution to the texture, and the well-nuanced oak adds a subtle dimension to the flavour. The acidity is poised and clean, and the finish is long and sweet. Pair it with rich, sweet seafood like boiled, chilled lobster or seared scallops. (RP)


Sileni Estates Estate Selection "The Circle" Semillon 2003
Hawke's Bay $14.95 (651745)
An intriguing nose of citrus, orange blossoms and a hint of pineapple provide an entrée to this plush and velvety-textured wine. It offers a lovely balance of clean acidity, plush mouth-feel and forward fruit. The lengthy finish is quite special and provides the perfect partner to grilled and herbed chicken in a creamy pasta sauce. Great drinking now and worth cellaring up to five years to develop those wonderful oily characteristics. Priced at $21.50 Cdn. in NZ! (VH)


Kumeu River Chardonnay 2002
Kumeu River $42.95 (640383)
From the iconic Brajkovich family winery, this is a stunner. Winemaker Michael was NZ's first MW and is a master of handling oak. The lifted leesy nose is imbued with toasted nutty aromas underpinned by mineral and apple. From 25-year-old vines, the flavours range from citrus to pit fruit and the mouth feel is supple and generous. The finish is tangy and cleansing. Well balanced, beautifully structured, it begs for lemon veal or Chicken Kiev. Drink now to 2009. This is a Vintages "In Store Discovery," and not in the catalog. (VH)




Delheim Grand Reserve 2000
Stellenbosch $28.45 (951731)
Always a wine to watch for, and the 2000 vintage is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows terrific fruit character, with elegant dark fruit flavours and notes of spice, vanilla and coffee. With lovely smooth texture, finely poised balance, good tannic structure, and a persistent finish, it offers very good value. Certainly drinkable now, it will evolve positively for another five years. An excellent partner for flavoursome red meat. Note that this is a Vintages "In Store Discovery," and not in the catalog. (RP)



Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2002
Mendoza $13.95 (640490)
If it's true, as the Vintages catalog says, that many people consider Argentina to be Malbec's "true home," it will shock people in Bordeaux and Cahors. Surely we needn't be so awed by the New World that we forget the great French Malbecs? That said, Argentina is producing excellent Malbec varietals and blends, and this one offers really good quality and value. The fruit is full, with gamey, smoky and spicy notes, and the tannins are light and pleasantly drying. This is one to buy a few bottles of, just because it's very good at a very good price, and it won't be available long. (RP)


Santa Rita "Floresta" Sauvignon Blanc 2002
Valle de Casablanca $22.95 (680959)
Casablanca is near the Pacific Ocean, and the Sauvignon Blanc vines benefit from the cool ocean breezes during the hot Chilean summer. This SB has lovely green fruit flavours well balanced with zesty acidity. It's flavourful and pungent, but also crisp and clean, and it's a perfect match for many seafood dishes or for a wild mushroom and goat cheese tart. Note that this is a Vintages "In Store Discovery," and not listed in the catalog. (RP)



Santa Rita Merlot Reserva 2003
Maipo Valley $12.95 (375790)
Another success for Santa Rita's personable and passionate winemaker, Andrés Ilabaca. He's made a super Merlot that's selling at a bargain price. Look for plush, concentrated dark fruit (plum dominant), with spicy notes, great balance, sweet tannins, and good structure. You can drink it now, or put it away for another three or four years. It's perfect for gourmet hamburgers, grilled red meat, and hearty stews. (RP)



Rémy Pannier Domaine du Moulin Granger Sancerre 2002
AOC Sancerre $26.95 (597906)
I'm not sure about the Vintages catalog suggestion that New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs "merely emulate" the wines of Sancerre. This Sancerre is quite unlike a classic NZ SB. It has green fruit with briny, citrus and some tropical notes-and it's delicious in its own right. The acidity is crisp and clean, and it pairs well with sautéed shrimp with lemon. (RP)



Georges Duboeuf "Domaine des Rosiers" Moulin-à-Vent 2003
AOC Moulin-à-Vent $19.95 (720722)
The hot 2003 growing season in France produced particularly concentrated wines, and in regions like Beaujolais and the Loire the reds were notably richer than usual. It's immaterial whether it was a good or a bad thing, or that it was atypical: this is just what vintage variation is all about. This 2003 from the Moulin-à-Vent cru in Beaujolais shows characteristic fruitiness, but has added depth. With spicy notes and good structure, it's an impressive wine that will pair well with quite rich, spicy dishes, like hearty vegetarian lasagna. Drink it now and over the next five years. (RP)


Cave de Tain Hermitage Cornas "Les Nobles Rives" 2001
AOC Cornas, Rhône $35.95 (972117)
This 100% Syrah shows beautifully pure fruit (cherry, spice, a hint of white pepper), excellent balance and supple tannins. The finish is long, and it's stylistically elegant. Drink it now with well-herbed roast lamb and root vegetables, or cellar up to five years. (RP)



Schönborn Riesling 2003
QbA Rheingau $15.95 (653535)
Excellent in its own right, but particularly impressive because it's classified QbA (not the QmP category that's higher in German wine law) and because of its affordable price. You don't often get German Riesling of this quality at this price. It's beautifully balanced in an off-dry style, with elegant, fresh fruit flavours and crisp acidity. This is perfect for sipping or for pairing with lightly spicy food. (RP)



Taburno Falanghina 2003
DOC Taburno Falanghina, Campania $18.95 (924324)
Falanghina is one of those obscure Italian grape varieties that are often said to be experiencing a revival. This one has particular significance, in that it might be the grape responsible for Falernum, an icon wine of Ancient Rome. Even if it's not, it makes pretty nice wine, as this example shows. Look for aromatic, tropical/white peach flavours, a creamy, mouth-filling texture, and good acidity. It's rich and lovely, and a good partner to white fish in a flavourful, cream-based sauce. (RP)


Umberto Fiore Gattinara 1994
DOCG Gattinara $21.95 (203182)
Yes, it really is the 1994 vintage. Call it pre-cellared, and feel at ease drinking it as soon as you buy it. It's predominantly Nebbiolo, and if the fruit freshness has faded (wine-years are like dog-years), it's been replaced by an attractive flavour profile of dried fruit and mushroom. But the acidity is still there, and it's still richly tannic. This is a rare chance to taste an older Nebbiolo at a very reasonable price, so go for it. Pair it with a pasta dish that's rich in wild mushrooms. (RP)


Lebanon is in the news these days. It's easy to forget that wine has been produced there consistently in the last few decades, despite the political turmoil and the fact that the main wine region, the Bekaa Valley, has been the site of devastating military conflict. This month's release at Vintages includes a handful of Lebanese wines, two of which are reviewed here.


Domaine Wardy "Les Terroirs" Rouge 2001
Bekaa Valley $11.95 (641712)
A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cinsault and two unusual varietal crosses, this combines the flavours of Bordeaux and southern France in a rich-flavoured, plush-textured, spicy red that's really good value. Pair it with Lebanese red meat dishes. (RP)


Domaine Wardy Château Les Cèdres 2001
Bekaa Valley $21.95 (651943)
There's an unusual earthy-dry straw aroma here, but the flavours are solid red and dark fruit (plum, berries), with good intensity and quite firm tannins. It's well balanced and a good partner, again, for well-flavoured Lebanese meat and vegetarian dishes. (RP)



Aragonesas "Mosen Cleto" 2001
DO Campo de Borja $10.95 (368290)
Someone at the pre-Release tasting exclaimed, "Cherry Blossom!" and pointed to this bottle-distinctive because it's encrusted with grit or sand. Even though I tried to put the comment out of my mind when I tasted the wine later, the flavours of cherry and chocolate kept coming back, so that's what it tastes like: rich cherry with chocolate accents (unlike Cherry Blossom, which is the reverse). It's a very good tasting wine and it's great value. Drink it with almost anything you feel like: pizza and hamburger, sure, but also with veal, beef, lamb, hearty vegetarian meals?. (RP)


Palacios Remondo "Propriedad H. Remondo" 2001
DOC Rioja $39.95 (597880)
A very impressive Rioja at a very good price. There's less Tempranillo (40%) than usual, and the flavours are wonderfully complex. Look for cherry, plum, and raspberry, with accents of mint, smoke and earth. The balance is excellent, but right now the tannins exercise a powerful grip and this needs at least five years' aging to come into its own. (RP).


Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases.



Alpha Domus Pinot Noir 2002
Hawke's Bay $21.95
An involved and interesting nose of raspberries, blueberries, currants and spice portends a gorgeous wine. A tour de force in winemaking-2kg per vine, multi-clones, cold soak, basket pressed, 11 months French oak, only slight filter and no fining, 14% alcohol. A full palate of red cherries and spice is wrapped around a delicate core of earthy, mineral tones. This is the real deal for Pinot lovers, with a strikingly fruity and well-balanced finish. Very good value. (VH)





Sterling Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2002
Napa Valley $28.95 330241
There are two major styles of New World Merlot. There's the dull, generic-red-wine style I'm surprised hasn't generated a Merlot equivalent to Anything But Chardonnay (I suppose it doesn't work because the military have already grabbed ABM as an acronym). Then there's a intensely-flavoured, complex, spicy style that verges toward Carmenère. This is one of those. It's quite delicious and succeeds on all fronts: flavour, balance, complexity, interest and finish. Great stuff for a meal of richly-flavoured red meat. (RP)


Cline Syrah 2002
California $17.95 (733758) Vintages Essential
This is a very well-made New World Syrah that draws on two warm California regions (Lodi and Contra Costa County) and one cool climate (Sonoma County). It makes for a quite typical Syrah with good cherry and ripe strawberry flavours with spicy and black pepper notes. Medium-bodied with good balance and a good spicy finish, this is a natural for well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)



Christian Moueix Pomerol 2000
Pomerol, Bordeaux $31.95 (903013)
From the highly-reputed 2000 vintage comes this well-priced, very good value Pomerol from the Christian Moueix portfolio. Merlot-dominant, it shows good flavour typicity, with plum and berry to the fore, with good complexity in the spicy notes. It's all elegance on the texture, silky smooth with ripe tannins, and a long spicy fruit finish. Well made, and it's a good match for grilled game or lamb. (RP)




Etchart "Privado" Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Cafayate $9.95 (362186)
A young, unoaked Cabernet with a slightly perfumed, red fruit aromas and flavours (red cherry, plum are dominant) with some spicy notes. It's fairly one-dimensional at first, but picks up complexity through the palate. Slightly rustic texture, light tannins, and a good partner for grilled read meat dishes. This should be a popular barbecue wine. (RP)




De Bortoli "Deen" Vat 7 Chardonnay 2003
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (598896)
A luscious Chardonnay that's big and fruit-forward and carefully oaked to retain the integrity of the fruit. There's a lot of complexity here, with classic peach and citrus flavours accented with caramel, vanilla and sweet spice. The texture is smooth and elgant and the finish is long. Pair this with fairly flavourful chicken or pork, perhaps with a not-too-sweet fruit compote. (RP)


Rosemount Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2003
South Eastern Australia $14.45 (329573)
At this price, this Sauvignon Blanc will give many of its trans-Tasman rivals a run for their money. It has very attractive fruit flavours (passion fruit, green melon, tropical notes) and very good, well-balanced acidity. Medium bodied and with great typicity, it's a natural for the usual suggestions (oysters, goat cheese) and for seafood generally. (RP)



Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (270926)
Nearly 350 Ottawa Citizen readers tasted and rated this wine, and gave it an average score of 3.8 stars. 60% of them rated it 4 stars or higher. That's a pretty good result for a funky, intensely-flavoured red with gamey, beetroot notes. It's juicy, full-bodied and teeth-staining, and it needs well-flavoured food, and Citizen readers loved it with spicy lamb and beef dishes. I go along with these results. (RP)




Château des Charmes Riesling 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (277228)
This is the first vintage of this wine, which is produced from the winery's own vineyards. Although it's dry, there is clear perceived sweetness, with quite lush sweet fruit notes balanced off by pungent lime and other citrus notes. The acidity is good and there's a nice, long, clean finish. Well made and a very good partner to spicy Thai cuisine. Available at Château des Charmes retail stores and at the winery.(RP)


Château des Charmes "St Davids Bench Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00
This is a stunning Cab, the sort of wine that makes people re-think the common view that Niagara should pull out their Cab and Merlot vines and focus on the varieties that do well on a more regular basis. I tried this blind on Vic and another friend who's a wine professional, and they were wowed by it. It has beautiful fruit, lovely balance, good tannins, a long finish-in short, it holds together almost perfectly. It's wonderful with a spicy beef dish. (RP)


Southbrook Winery "Watson Vineyards" Cabernet Franc 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (448357)
A quite delicious Cab Franc with very characteristic varietal flavours of spicy red berry fruit, freshly-sharpened HB wood pencil, and bell pepper. Medium-bodied with a very attractive hint of rusticity in the texture and a good fruit finish, this is an excellent partner for well-seasoned grilled red meat. Available from the winery, so order it using the link on winecurrent.com. (RP)


Southbrook Winery "Triomphe" Cabernet Merlot 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (533299)
Lovely spicy red fruit aromas and flavours, with hints of capsicum and black pepper. Medium-bodied with good structure and light tannins, it's a lighter-styled Cab-Merlot (with 11.5% alcohol) and will go well with lightly-seasoned grilled veal. Order this from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

Cheers!

Vic and Rod