This release features wines from California, in advance of the California Wine Fair which is making its way across Canada. It's in Toronto on April 18 and in Ottawa on April 22. For details, see the Vintages catalog or check www.calwine.ca. Note that several of the California wines in this month's catalog are Vintages Essentials, which means that they are permanently in Vintages and you needn't race to get them on Release-day. We'll review some of them in your next winecurrent.com newsletter.



Firestone Vineyard Select Merlot 2002
Central Coast $13.95 (651190)

Apparently, there's a connection between this Firestone and the tire company. But this is a wine that won't tire your palate or exhaust your wallet. It's excellent value, with plush fruit, great balance, and easy-going tannins... a wine to buy in quantities so that you have something on hand for relaxed mid-week meals or weekend sipping. (RP)


Gallo Pinot Noir 2002
Sonoma County $21.95 (463810)

Well made and a very New World Pinot. Look for well-harmonized sweet and sour cherry flavours, with hints of white pepper and spice. The acidity is quite soft and the tannins are light. It's a versatile Pinot that will go as well with a roast veal chop with roasted cherry tomatoes and shallots or with duck breast and wild mushrooms. (RP)


Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Alexander Valley $99.95 (915546)

Not much change from $100, but if your wallet stretches to this, your palate will love you. My notes include words like "gorgeous," "elegant," and "exquisite," along with the usual stuff about fruit purity, perfect balance, great complexity, and a long, long finish. Pair it with something equally fine: a delicately herbed (rosemary, lavender, garlic) rack of lamb, perhaps? (RP)



Henry of Pelham Unfiltered Merlot 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (291120)

I tasted this after going through about 120 wines, and it was immediately preceded by a couple of dozen heavy-hitting Australian reds. It not only stood up to that punishing competition, but it tasted great. It has full, rich, focused fruit flavours (plum, berry predominant), with excellent acid balance and supple tannins. The finish is persistent and spicy. Pair this with roast veal and root vegetables. (RP)



Verse 1 Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Margaret River $19.95 (981225)

People often say of poorly-regarded wine regions that they must keep the best stuff at home. But I'm so consistently impressed with Western Australia that I'm starting to think either they don't make mediocre wine, or they keep that at home! This is a lovely, crisp, well-balanced blend that highlights the flavour profile of Sauvignon Blanc and the texture and weight of Semillon. It's really very good, and one to grab now for summer drinking with all manner of fish and seafood. (RP)



Devil's Lair Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Margaret River $44.95 (543454)

Another great wine from Western Australia. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (3%) that shows beautifully ripe and pure fruit, wonderful complexity, and the quality and poise that add up to a near-perfect wine. This and well-herbed grilled rack of lamb make for a mutual admiration society. (RP)


D'Arenberg "The Ironstone Pressings" Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2002
McLaren Vale $47.95 (974816)

This blend, often abbreviated GSM (which works even when Mourvèdre is called Mataro, as it often is in Australia), has become a success story among Australian wines. And this is a really successful expression, with rich, dark, concentrated fruit, lovely spice and pepper notes, fine balance, supple tannins, and a lengthy finish. It's a natural for well-season red meat dishes, and you can drink it now or hold it for at least five-and
maybe ten-years. (RP)


Wayne Thomas Petit Verdot 2003
McLaren Vale $35.95 (650887)

Petit Verdot is best known for the statistically small but aesthetically important contribution it makes to Bordeaux blends. A few Australian producers make it as a varietal, and this is one of the best. It's characterized by rich dark, intense fruit that carries some jammy sweetness at its core. With good acid balance-important with this much concentration-it has long, supple tannins, and a big, intense finish. Stylish and forceful at the same time, it will KO wimpy food, so put it in a ring with a flavourful red meat dish, like well-seasoned lamb, beef or game. (RP)


Yarra Burn Pinot Noir 2001
Yarra Valley $32.95 (589515)

A lighter-style Pinot Noir that offers elegance at a good price. The fruit is predominantly cherry (a winning combination of sweet and tart) with nice notes of earth and spice. Well-balanced with an attractive texture, this is an excellent partner for grilled salmon or roast duck. (RP)


E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2001
Barossa Valley $99.95 (731620)

E&E Black Pepper is a classic Australian wine that's moving to icon status. It's consistently beautiful year after year, all the while displaying good vintage character-and that's the mark of a successful brand. Look for full fruit, dark and ripe, accented with pepper (yes!) and sweet notes, with ripe tannins and a long finish. Quite stunning, and a wine to pair with roast or grilled game. Drink it five to ten years from now. (RP)



Coopers Creek Chardonnay Reserve 2004
Gisborne $21.95 (651786)

A wine whose fruit purity strikes you first. Look for flavours of peach, tropical fruit and citrus, all blended harmoniously and balanced with good acidity. This is a stylish Chardonnay that will go well with a variety of dishes, from grilled herbed chicken roast pork. (RP)


Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $16.95 (734095)

A simply delicious Marlborough Sauvignon. It's crisp, deeply fruit-driven (passion fruit and tropical flavours to the fore) and mouth-filling, and it leaves a marvelous clean feeling. It's ideal for the usual edible suspects (oysters, goat cheese) but will make a great foil for a wide range of spicy seafood dishes. (RP)



C.J. Pask "Gimblett Road" Merlot 2002
Hawke's Bay $21.95 (586198)

Kate Radburnd was named top winemaker in Hawke's Bay and this offering showcases her talent. From the Gimblett Gravels area, the unique terroir is expressed nicely in this balanced red. Plums, red licorice and spicy aromatics waft from the glass. A very warm fermentation (35°C) has helped produce a plush texture of ripe, but perceptible, tannins and gorgeous fruit (more plums and black cherries). The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Excellent value. Drink now to 2010. (VH)


Brancott Merlot Reserve 2000
Marlborough $22.95 (655126)

Surely there's no need for wine writers to keep breaking the news that New Zealand produces great reds as well as whites? Wine magazines have been breathlessly sharing this with us for years now. This Merlot (already five years old) is quite wonderful. It has rich, concentrated pure fruit flavours that remain focused right through the palate and into the long, spicy finish. The tannins are ripe and sweet and the balance is excellent. It's ready for drinking now, but you can also put it away for another four or five years. Pair it with hearty red meat dishes. (RP)



Dornier "Donatus" White 2003
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (597278)

I was really impressed by Dornier wines when I was at the Cape Wine exhibition last year, and I'm always happy to see them in Ontario. This white is a very successful blend of Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and, like all great blends, it's more than the sum of its grapes. This offers a complex flavour profile dominated by the peach-apricot zone (from the Chenin Blanc), but with an attractive, balancing citrus component. It has a rich texture and a long, clean finish, and it's perfect for slightly spicy seafood dishes. With the Chenin and Semillon on board, it's good for cellaring for another five years. (RP)


Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (933424)

A taut, stripped-down Sauvignon Blanc with gripping, eye-watering green fruit, like gooseberry, green apple, and lime. That's meant to sound positive, because this is a really delicious SB that will pair well with rich food like pungent artisanal goat cheese (not the bland supermarket stuff) and briny, freshly-shucked oysters. It's one of those Sauvignon Blancs that will improve with a little cellaring to help the acidity shake out. (RP)



Rustenberg "Brampton" Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2002
WO Coastal Region $20.95 (980771)

The Vintages catalog reports that Rustenberg's "Brampton" wines are named for a bull exported from Brampton, Ontario, to the Rustenberg farm in 1947. Fortunately, it's easy to be bullish about this wine, which is a very stylish blend of Cabernet (51%), Merlot (45%) and Petit Verdot (4%). It has intense dark fruit flavours with spice and pepper notes, firm tannins and a good, complex finish. It seems almost in bad taste to suggest steak as a food pairing, but that's the obvious choice. (RP)


Fairview "Goats do Roam" 2002
WO Western Cape $11.95 (718940)

The story goes that the Fairview goats got into the vineyards and ate the best and tastiest fruit. It's not the first time animals have been credited with being great judges of grape ripeness-dogs, deer, bears, and wild bore have variously been credited with the ability-but, on the basis of this wine (and its "in Villages" counterpart), no one can deny the Fairview goats have a great future as viticultural consultants. (Look out, Michel Rolland!) This is consistently well-made, vintage after vintage, and it represents excellent value. Look for luscious fruit flavours (plum uppermost) with spice and smoke accents. If you miss out this month, never fear: it's being promoted to Vintages Essentials status from May. (RP)



Catena Zapata "Alamos" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Mendoza $13.95 (467944)

This is excellent value. It has everything you look for in a good Cabernet Sauvignon: pure dark fruit with complex flavours, medium-plus weight, approachable tannins, and a good finish. If it weren't from Argentina, it would command a much higher price, and at $13.95, you can afford to drink well every day. Pair it with red meat dishes, from hamburgers and barbecued beef to hearty stew and grilled pepper steak. (RP)



Cono Sur Reserve Chardonnay 2003
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (590802)

A much-lauded Chardonnay at an excellent price. The grapes grew in the cool conditions of the Casablanca Valley, and the wine shows lovely pure fruit flavours with excellent structure and attractive dryness. Overall, it's a beautiful mouthful that will partner well with grilled/roast pork and chicken. (RP)



Château Fontenil 2002
AOC Fronsac, Bordeaux $43.95 (920272)

Value often pops up from lesser-known appellations, and this Fronsac is a good example. It's really delicious, with full dark fruit and a lot of complexity. The tannins are firm, but will soften with five years' cellaring, and the finish is long and generous. It's a perfect choice for roast lamb and root vegetables. Note that this is a Vintages "In Store Discovery" and not listed in the catalog. (RP)


Château Marsau 2001
AOC Côtes de Francs, Bordeaux $27.95 (952622)

A truly superlative wine from a little-known Bordeaux appellation. It displays intense, well-structured, fruit flavours (plum, berry) with attractive spice and coffee notes. The tannins grip nicely, but they're approachable if you pair this with something like rare-grilled lamb or beef. It's big-bodied and has an impressive finish, and shows that you needn't take out a second mortgage to buy excellent Bordeaux. (RP)


The April 2 Release features wines from southern France produced by Jacques and François Lurton. The catalog calls them wines from "The Wild Kingdom," which sounds like Disney-wine to me. (Where does Vintages come up with these imaginative ideas? February's French promotion was called "Ooh-la-la France!"-how embarrassing is that?-and this month's California feature is headed "Calfornia Dreamin'"!) But the Lurtons' feral wines are excellent value, so read on...



Château des Erles 2002
AOC Fitou $49.95 (654590)

Wow! This is one delicious red, a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. These are old vines that grow in arid conditions, and the low yield combines to make an intensely-flavoured wine. Look for concentrated dark fruit with spice, coffee, chocolate and pepper notes. The tannins are firm but approachable, and you get a long, spicy finish. Great with well-seasoned lamb stew or garlic/lavender-lavished grilled lamb chops. (RP)


Château la Bouriette 2001
AOC Cabardès $15.95 (6545820)

A more-or-less equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah (the way Bordeaux used to be in the good old days, when it was "Hermitaged"), this has lovely, rich flavours. The texture is a tad rustic (which I like), and it delivers on all fronts. Approachable tannins, good weight, very good flavour... great value overall, and a partner for well-seasoned (more garlic, please!) lamb stew. (RP)


Mas Janeil 2001
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $15.95 (992800)

The Lurtons call this "one of our greatest success stories" and, at this price, it certainly offers amazing value. A Syrah-Grenache-Carignan blend, it offers full-power fruit up-front, with soft texture and sweet, supple tannins. Just well-made and delicious, and a bargain to boot. Another wine for those flavourful, Mediterranean-inspired lamb and beef dishes that make a great seasonal transition at this time of year. (RP)



Dr Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling 2003
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $14.95 (596601)

A luscious Riesling with lovely peach, tropical and honeyed flavours, with mineral and light citrus notes. The acidity is zippy and clean, and it leaves you with a long, crisp finish. Well made, well priced, and a treat sipped alone or with spicy Thai cuisine. (RP)



Ruffino "Libaio" Chardonnay 2003
IGT Toscana (Tuscany) $13.95 (211441)

A very well-priced Chardonnay from a highly-regarded producer. Everything about this wine is well done: it has lovely fruit flavours (peach and tropical fruit to the fore), great balance, and a smooth texture. It's a versatile food wine that will pair successfully with well-seasoned poultry and pork dishes, and pasta in a cream-based sauce. (RP)


Lungarotti Pinot Grigio 2003
IGT Umbria $11.95 (372664)

Lungarotti is based in Torgiano, a small Umbrian town devoted to wine. It has an excellent wine museum and fine wine bars, not to mention Lungarotti itself. This is a well-made Pinot Grigio (alas, there are too many mediocre Italian Pinot Grigios around), with attractive spicy peach-apricot flavours, good acidity and pleasant crisp, clean texture. It's a good sipper or a fine partner for spicy seafood appetizers. (RP)


Palazzone "Terre Vineate" Orvieto Classico Superiore 2003
DOC Orvieto Classico Superiore $15.95 (732628)

The town of Orvieto, with the shining façade of its cathedral, dominates the surrounding plain, and this Orvieto Classico is one of those that stands out from many of its competitors. A blend of five varieties, it's a complex white that's offers rich fruit flavours (peach, pear, herb, spice), well-balanced and with a good finish that ends with a clean, slightly bitter click. Very good value, this pairs well with pork tenderloin stuffed with apricots. (RP)



Giacosa Bussia Barbera d'Alba 2001
DOC Barbera d'Alba $16.95 (592618)

This is a terrific buy, a wonderful expression of Barbera that offers lovely fruit flavours (plum, cherry), excellent acid-fruit balance, and light tannins. The catalog notes that it has "a fine rustic charm," and that's the way I would describe it, too (my note was "slightly rustic charm," in fact): it has that slight coarseness in the texture that makes you think of the landscape and of the food this will go so well with. Try it with pasta in a rich, spicy tomato-based sauce. (RP)


Ruffino "Santedame" Chianti Classico 2000
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (523076)

A classic Chianti at an excellent price. This is 100% Sangiovese, which is in many ways more challenging than blending Sangiovese with other varieties. The result here is pure fruit flavours with spicy dried fruit notes, a rich texture, and an excellent follow-through. A great match for osso bucco. (RP)



Martinez Bujanda "Conde de Valdemar" Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $19.95 (947309)

This is the Reserva level of the Conde de Valdemar Crianza on the LCBO General List. To make the Reserva category, the wine is aged an extra year. Why not buy one of each (the Crianza costs $13.95) and taste them side by side to see the difference? The Reserva offers good, concentrated fruit with toasty vanilla and spice from the oak. Overall, it's very well made, and pairs well with veal and spicy vegetables. (RP)




Craneford Chardonnay 2002
Adelaide Hills $15.95 (650911)

With a complex basket of fruit (peach, pear, tropical, citrus) in the flavours, balanced with crisp acidity and a rich, creamy texture, this is a very attractive Chardonnay made moreso by the good price. The 14% alcohol is well integrated, and this makes a fine partner for richer chicken and pork dishes. (RP)


Starvedog Lane Chardonnay 2001
Adelaide Hills $25.95 (651356)

You'd think a Chardonnay carrying this name would be lean, but this is good-bodied, with plump tropical and peach flavours and hints of vanilla from the oak. The texture is sleek and it finishes well. Still a puppy after four years, this can be kennelled for another four or five. Lap this up with a bowl of herbed roasted chicken. (RP)


Heartland Viognier-Pinot Gris 2004
Langhorne Creek $17.95 (651364)

An unusual blend that other producers are bound to try, now that they can see how successful this wine is. It has a lovely crisp texture and attractive floral, spice, peach and apricot notes in the aromas and flavour. Well balanced and with a smooth texture, it's an ideal wine for spicy Asian cuisine. (RP)




Leasingham "Bin 56" Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Clare Valley $24.95 (595504)

A totally delicious Cab. It's all dark, concentrated fruit, well-focused with all the complexity you expect from well-made Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are sweet and ripe, the texture is elegant, and the long finish carries the rich fruit through to the end. All in all, an excellent wine and a great partner for rich red meat dishes. Drink now or in the next three or four years. (RP)


d'Arenberg "The Bonsai Vine" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2001
McLaren Vale $25.95 (590380)

A bruiser of a wine: big and bold with concentrated dark fruit (black plum, cherry, blackberry) and spicy accents. It has good texture-smooth but assertive-with very firm tannins that you can tame with a rare-grilled steak. Alternatively, cellar it for another four or five years. (RP)


Taltarni Shiraz 2001
Pyrenees $22.95 (937219)

A very attractive style of Shiraz, not an in-your-face fruit-bomb but a powerfully elegant red with rich, dark fruit and berry and accents of coffee and pepper. It's well focused with sleek tannins and a fine, long finish. Beautifully made, and an excellent partner to grilled rack of lamb or roast game. (RP)


Seppelt "Chalambar" Shiraz 2000
Victoria $24.95 (594903)

This Shiraz shows what can be achieved by multi-regional blending: the grapes were sourced from three different regions with varying growing conditions. In the hands of winemaker Arthur O'Connor, they make an exceptionally well-balanced and structured Shiraz, with a core of pure dark fruit at its centre. Look for finely-tuned flavours of black plum and blackberry with spice and pepper nuances. The tannins are light and sweet, and the spicy finish is long. This is an elegant, classy Shiraz that you can drink now (with well-herbed lamb) or keep to the end of the decade. (RP)


Lindemans Reserve Merlot 2002
South Australia $15.95 (588715)

A medium-bodied Merlot with very attractive dark fruit aromas and excellent ripe fruit flavours that don't cross the line to the jammy zone. Well-balanced, approachably tannic, with a good fruity finish, this is just very well made, and represents excellent value. Pair it up with well-herbed red meat dishes, and tuck a few bottles away for three to five more years. (RP)


Katnook Estate Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra $29.95 (938225)

An elegant Shiraz, in the winning style wine-lovers have come to expect from Katnook. Look for concentrated dark fruit (black plum, cherry) with notes of spice and mint, firm tannins and a lengthy finish-everything you want in a classy Shiraz. Lock this one up for four or five years, then open it and decant it as you're preparing some well-seasoned red meat for the grill or barbecue. (RP)



Wither Hills Chardonnay 2002
Marlborough $24.95 (925420)

This is an amazing Chardonnay, with luscious, complex fruit (peach, pear, pink grapefruit) and a plush, smooth, rich texture. The 14% alcohol makes a positive contribution to the texture, and the well-nuanced oak adds a subtle dimension to the flavour. The acidity is poised and clean, and the finish is long and sweet. Pair it with rich, sweet seafood like boiled, chilled lobster or seared scallops. (RP)


Sileni Estates Estate Selection "The Circle" Semillon 2003
Hawke's Bay $14.95 (651745)

An intriguing nose of citrus, orange blossoms and a hint of pineapple provide an entrée to this plush and velvety-textured wine. It offers a lovely balance of clean acidity, plush mouth-feel and forward fruit. The lengthy finish is quite special and provides the perfect partner to grilled and herbed chicken in a creamy pasta sauce. Great drinking now and worth cellaring up to five years to develop those wonderful oily characteristics. Priced at $21.50 Cdn. in NZ! (VH)



Delheim Grand Reserve 2000
Stellenbosch $28.45 (951731)

Always a wine to watch for, and the 2000 vintage is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows terrific fruit character, with elegant dark fruit flavours and notes of spice, vanilla and coffee. With lovely smooth texture, finely poised balance, good tannic structure, and a persistent finish, it offers very good value. Certainly drinkable now, it will evolve positively for another five years. An excellent partner for flavoursome red meat. Note that this is a Vintages "In Store Discovery," and not in the catalog. (RP)



Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2002
Mendoza $13.95 (640490)

If it's true, as the Vintages catalog says, that many people consider Argentina to be Malbec's "true home," it will shock people in Bordeaux and Cahors. Surely we needn't be so awed by the New World that we forget the great French Malbecs? That said, Argentina is producing excellent Malbec varietals and blends, and this one offers really good quality and value. The fruit is full, with gamey, smoky and spicy notes, and the tannins are light and pleasantly drying. This is one to buy a few bottles of, just because it's very good at a very good price, and it won't be available long. (RP)


Santa Rita "Floresta" Sauvignon Blanc 2002
Valle de Casablanca $22.95 (680959)

Casablanca is near the Pacific Ocean, and the Sauvignon Blanc vines benefit from the cool ocean breezes during the hot Chilean summer. This SB has lovely green fruit flavours well balanced with zesty acidity. It's flavourful and pungent, but also crisp and clean, and it's a perfect match for many seafood dishes or for a wild mushroom and goat cheese tart. Note that this is a Vintages "In Store Discovery," and not listed in the catalog. (RP)



Santa Rita Merlot Reserva 2003
Maipo Valley $12.95 (375790)

Another success for Santa Rita's personable and passionate winemaker, Andrés Ilabaca. He's made a super Merlot that's selling at a bargain price. Look for plush, concentrated dark fruit (plum dominant), with spicy notes, great balance, sweet tannins, and good structure. You can drink it now, or put it away for another three or four years. It's perfect for gourmet hamburgers, grilled red meat, and hearty stews. (RP)



Rémy Pannier Domaine du Moulin Granger Sancerre 2002
AOC Sancerre $26.95 (597906)

I'm not sure about the Vintages catalog suggestion that New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs "merely emulate" the wines of Sancerre. This Sancerre is quite unlike a classic NZ SB. It has green fruit with briny, citrus and some tropical notes-and it's delicious in its own right. The acidity is crisp and clean, and it pairs well with sautéed shrimp with lemon. (RP)



Georges Duboeuf "Domaine des Rosiers" Moulin-à-Vent 2003
AOC Moulin-à-Vent $19.95 (720722)

The hot 2003 growing season in France produced particularly concentrated wines, and in regions like Beaujolais and the Loire the reds were notably richer than usual. It's immaterial whether it was a good or a bad thing, or that it was atypical: this is just what vintage variation is all about. This 2003 from the Moulin-à-Vent cru in Beaujolais shows characteristic fruitiness, but has added depth. With spicy notes and good structure, it's an impressive wine that will pair well with quite rich, spicy dishes, like hearty vegetarian lasagna. Drink it now and over the next five years. (RP)


Cave de Tain Hermitage Cornas "Les Nobles Rives" 2001
AOC Cornas, Rhône $35.95 (972117)

This 100% Syrah shows beautifully pure fruit (cherry, spice, a hint of white pepper), excellent balance and supple tannins. The finish is long, and it's stylistically elegant. Drink it now with well-herbed roast lamb and root vegetables, or cellar up to five years. (RP)



Schönborn Riesling 2003
QbA Rheingau $15.95 (653535)

Excellent in its own right, but particularly impressive because it's classified QbA (not the QmP category that's higher in German wine law) and because of its affordable price. You don't often get German Riesling of this quality at this price. It's beautifully balanced in an off-dry style, with elegant, fresh fruit flavours and crisp acidity. This is perfect for sipping or for pairing with lightly spicy food. (RP)



Taburno Falanghina 2003
DOC Taburno Falanghina, Campania $18.95 (924324)

Falanghina is one of those obscure Italian grape varieties that are often said to be experiencing a revival. This one has particular significance, in that it might be the grape responsible for Falernum, an icon wine of Ancient Rome. Even if it's not, it makes pretty nice wine, as this example shows. Look for aromatic, tropical/white peach flavours, a creamy, mouth-filling texture, and good acidity. It's rich and lovely, and a good partner to white fish in a flavourful, cream-based sauce. (RP)


Umberto Fiore Gattinara 1994
DOCG Gattinara $21.95 (203182)

Yes, it really is the 1994 vintage. Call it pre-cellared, and feel at ease drinking it as soon as you buy it. It's predominantly Nebbiolo, and if the fruit freshness has faded (wine-years are like dog-years), it's been replaced by an attractive flavour profile of dried fruit and mushroom. But the acidity is still there, and it's still richly tannic. This is a rare chance to taste an older Nebbiolo at a very reasonable price, so go for it. Pair it with a pasta dish that's rich in wild mushrooms. (RP)


Lebanon is in the news these days. It's easy to forget that wine has been produced there consistently in the last few decades, despite the political turmoil and the fact that the main wine region, the Bekaa Valley, has been the site of devastating military conflict. This month's release at Vintages includes a handful of Lebanese wines, two of which are reviewed here.


Domaine Wardy "Les Terroirs" Rouge 2001
Bekaa Valley $11.95 (641712)

A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cinsault and two unusual varietal crosses, this combines the flavours of Bordeaux and southern France in a rich-flavoured, plush-textured, spicy red that's really good value. Pair it with Lebanese red meat dishes. (RP)


Domaine Wardy Château Les Cèdres 2001
Bekaa Valley $21.95 (651943)

There's an unusual earthy-dry straw aroma here, but the flavours are solid red and dark fruit (plum, berries), with good intensity and quite firm tannins. It's well balanced and a good partner, again, for well-flavoured Lebanese meat and vegetarian dishes. (RP)



Aragonesas "Mosen Cleto" 2001
DO Campo de Borja $10.95 (368290)

Someone at the pre-Release tasting exclaimed, "Cherry Blossom!" and pointed to this bottle-distinctive because it's encrusted with grit or sand. Even though I tried to put the comment out of my mind when I tasted the wine later, the flavours of cherry and chocolate kept coming back, so that's what it tastes like: rich cherry with chocolate accents (unlike Cherry Blossom, which is the reverse). It's a very good tasting wine and it's great value. Drink it with almost anything you feel like: pizza and hamburger, sure, but also with veal, beef, lamb, hearty vegetarian meals... (RP)


Palacios Remondo "Propriedad H. Remondo" 2001
DOC Rioja $39.95 (597880)

A very impressive Rioja at a very good price. There's less Tempranillo (40%) than usual, and the flavours are wonderfully complex. Look for cherry, plum, and raspberry, with accents of mint, smoke and earth. The balance is excellent, but right now the tannins exercise a powerful grip and this needs at least five years' aging to come into its own. (RP).

Cheers!

Rod and Vic