Winecurrent

July 24, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on Australian white wine followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

‘The world doesn’t need another Chardonnay’ – according to Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. You don’t know who Yiannis is? You soon will. Read more...

  • Private Order – a number of fine wines at the end of the newsletter via ‘Private Order’—not found on LCBO shelves, they’re available to you
  • Join the Union – Generations Wine Company is a new Ontario venture between Allan Jackson, of Jackson-Triggs fame, and Andrew Von Teichman, formerly with Pelee Island and Vincor. They’re ‘negociants’ purchasing and blending premium Ontario wine under the ‘Union’ label. Two are reviewed in ‘New in the LCBO’
  • Finding Waldo – there are three wines that ring the 5-star bell, all red blends

Australian White Wine Feature

**** drink or cellar
Gemtree ‘Citrine’ Chardonnay 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (138305) 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of orange blossom and spice opens this flavour-packed beauty. It’s mid-weight and flows along on an insistent wash of flavour with peach, pear and apple predominant. Generously textured, it finishes in a blaze of racy citrus and ripe pineapple. It pairs well with chicken breast in creamy white sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hollick ‘Bond Road’ Chardonnay 2007
Coonawarra/Padthaway, South Australia $21.95 (941922) 14.0% alcohol
This is big and bold with a lovely sense of purpose and very good structure. Smoky and oaky on the nose, the palate’s treated to a gusher of tropical fruit, ripe apple and poached pear. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous texture and an aftertaste that’s crisp, balanced and lengthy. All in all, it’s worth every penny. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Jip Jip Rocks ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2009
Padthaway, South Australia $15.95 (175752) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour—there’s nice weight, a good mouth feel and a delectable aftertaste. On the palate it’s racy and refreshing with a lovely stream of citrus—orange rind and lemon zest—mingling with hints of yellow plum and nectarine. This is a quality well-made unoaked Chardonnay and it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Dry Dam’ Riesling 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (942953) 11.5% alcohol
Great purity of fruit and minimal wine-making interference coalesce in this dry and delectable Riesling. Bright and lively aromas and flavours—fig, mineral, and tree fruit—form a focused stream on the palate and through the racy, crisp finish. It’s nicely textured and offers great versatility with food—steamed mussels, seafood pasta in cream sauce or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Ferngrove Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Frankland River, Western Australia $18.95 (167015) 13.5% alcohol
Pungent aromas of savoury herbs, grassy notes and citrus rip off this light-on-its-feet summer sipper. There’s a boatload of zing and tang with a steady stream of lemon and white grapefruit flavour throughout. It finishes clean and crisp with hints of spiced green apple. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (681247) 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $16.95) Aromas of mineral and tree fruit drift from the glass of this crisp, clean and refreshing Chardonnay. This is well balanced and integrates the oak seamlessly—less than half the wine was aged in barrel. It’s medium weight and nicely textured, showering a delectable mouthful of crisp green apple and ripe pear flavour on the mid-palate, wrapping up with energetic citrus and pineapple on the mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard ‘Niagara Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Niagara River $25.00 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 28, 2009 @ $25.00) The aromas from the estate-grown fruit offer an exquisite touch of oak with hints of pear and citrus. The oak is much more pronounced on the palate, and is complemented with layers of pear and delicious spiced apple. It’s medium bodied with a balanced acidity that delivers a long and lingering pear finish. (Dave Isaacs)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $31.95 (130989) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $31.95) Earthy, spicy with notes of minerality on the nose, it delivers a well balanced—fine-grained tannin, good acidity and fresh fruit flavour—and lip-smacking rendition of quality Pinot Noir from a challenging year. Tangy red currant, cranberry and mixed berry fruit flavours mingle with hints of beet root and spiced black plum. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a lingering focused dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clay Station ‘Unoaked’ Viognier 2008
Lodi $16.95 (025411) 13.5% alcohol
Full-blown perfumed aromas abound—honeysuckle, pit fruit and mineral-accented ripe pear. Mid weight and full of texture, it dishes out a fruit salad bowl of flavour with honeydew melon, ripe citrus and spice-infused white peach to the fore. The aftertaste is relentless with a glorious fusion of ripe fruit and racy tang. This is gorgeous Viognier. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Greg Norman ‘California Estates’ Chardonnay 2008
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (029264) 13.9% alcohol
This is smooth as silk and bursting with well-balanced flavour. Mineral, floral and apple aromas segue a well-textured stream of flavour on the palate and persistent finish with racy citrus, tropical fruit and Granny Smith apple galore. Mid weight and quite generously textured, this dishes out spice and milk chocolate along with toasty notes on the racy clean finish. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bonterra Zinfandel 2007 

Mendocino County, California $18.95 (530139) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent April 11, 2009 @ $18.95) Expect a nose full of good old-fashioned Californian Zinfandel goodness—blueberry pie and strawberry jam aromas with a dollop of oak and sweet spice. The palate is juicy initially with surprisingly big tannins lurking under all of the fruit. The result is great balance and the potential for this wine to age at least another five years. This is full bodied and dense, pairing well with rare game in a wildberry jus. (Mark Tandan)

**** drink now
Liberty School Syrah 2007 

California $18.95 (942383) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 9, 2010 @ $18.95) Quite opaque with violet notes, this is an intense wine with fantastic aromas of black fruit and pepper. The wine is well structured having spent about 14 months in mostly French oak, some of it new. The fruit flavors are rich—blackberries and plums—balanced with a crisp acidity and integrated tannins. It’s full-bodied with a long peppery finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hogue ‘Genesis’ Merlot 2006
Columbia Valley $19.95 (349415) 14.9% alcohol
The nose is subtle with delicate aromas of spice and dark berry fruit, but the flavours are anything but as they coat the palate with boysenberry, cassis and chocolate-covered cherries. Medium bodied and well textured, it’s also rich with good purity of fruit and ends on a high note with a balanced fruit-forward finish. Well paced throughout, it sips well on its own and has the oomph and structure to front up to rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Catena Syrah 2007
Mendoza $19.95 (055483) 14.0% alcohol
This is a crowd pleaser that takes no prisoners; it’s juicy, rich and lip-smacking good. There’s a boatload of tangy flavour with oodles of succulent dark berry fruit, spice and moderating pie cherry. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a long-lasting fruity mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $17.95 (128629) 14.0% alcohol
From a top-drawer producer and just a tick off 5 stars, it offers good value, to boot. As good as it is now, the deft balance and chewy tannin indicates it’ll reward short term cellaring. Enticing aromas—dark berry fruit, spice box and earthy notes—precede a shower of glorious rich dark flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and savoury notes fused with bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and full of promise. Drink 2011 to 2017. Can’t wait? Decant and pour with rare-grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Carte Vieja ‘Limited Release Reserva’ Carmenère 2008
Loncomilla Valley $13.95 (094177) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour in this drink-me-now gem—it earned its final ½ star on value. Smooth and mellow on the palate, there’s a balanced wash of red and black berry fruit and spice-infused ripe juicy cherry. It’s mid weight, well textured and delivers a balanced juicy fruit-forward finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Patronales Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Maule Valley $11.95 (169607) 13.5% alcohol
Without an economic turn down, this would be $13.95 or more—making this very good value. It’s light-medium bodied with a good mouth feel dishing out a stream of focused flavor with red cherry and spiced black plum predominant. There’s noticeable tannin on the finish, but it’s not distracting. Bistro-styled and balanced, this is versatile at the table pairing well with pizza, burgers or pasta in meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Friends’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (660480) 14.0% alcohol
Sharp and spicy aromas—spiced plum and dark berry—rip from this tangy red. There’s a gusher of palate-coating racy flavour—cranberry and pie cherry—balanced with kirsch liqueur and spice-infused bramble berry. It’s medium-bodied, quite well balanced with just a lick of toasty oak and vanilla. It finishes dry and mouth-watering and pairs well with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pikes ‘The Assemblage’ Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache 2007
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (014332) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a crowd pleaser with deft balance and a strong sense of purpose and structure. Look for aromas of spice, black licorice and tarry notes on the nose. Flavours explode on the palate with black currant, succulent mulberry and Bing cherry galore. Smooth and mellow, it has good texture and a lingering finish that’s balanced and mouth-watering good. Pair with grilled rack of lamb or thick steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 

McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (730374) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $22.95) Expressive expansive aromas of ripe dark berry fruit, toasty notes and mixed spice introduce subtle flavours of ripe dark cherry and mulberry mingling with leafy savoury herbs and a firm tannin structure. The lengthy finish layers on some delightful hints of tar and black licorice. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving alongside marinated, lightly grilled and thinly sliced flank steak—fajitas anyone? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
St Hallett ‘Gamekeeper’s’ Shiraz 2008 

Barossa Valley, Australia $14.95 (166991) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $14.95) Spicy, earthy and freshly picked mixed field berry aromas introduce a generous mouthful of flavour with spiced black plum and racy pie cherry to the fore. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and well balanced with a velvety underpinning of smooth ripe tannin. The zesty finish is mouth watering with a shower of red currant and ripe cranberry. Pairs well with pasta in spicy meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire Quartage’ 2007 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (024091) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $23.95) Tobacco leaf and sage on the nose, this delivers a meaty and persistent rush of flavour with spice, plum and dark berry fruit to the fore. It’s medium bodied and textured with a lengthy dry tannin finish that’s framed by a bracing spine of acidity. Drink after 2011 alongside lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Goats do Roam White 2009
WO Paarl $12.95 (943167) 14.0% alcohol
A lovely blend of 70% Viognier, complemented with Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, this fresh white wine has lush aromas of stone fruit and white flowers, with a touch of tropical fruit. Mid weight, it displays crisp acidity, clean fresh flavours of apricot and nectarine and a pleasant pithy citrus note. The extended finish is tangy and refreshing. It’s very good value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Paul & Mallory Talmard Macon-Uchizy 2008
AOC Macon-Uchizy $15.95 (733956) 13.0% alcohol
The more I sipped, the more I thought of this—it’s well balanced, flavourful and fruity with a lively, crisp aftertaste. Gorgeous aromas of white flowers, citrus and tree fruit segue a stream of balanced flavour with crisp green apple, racy lemon zest and minerality to the fore. It’s mid weight, nicely textured offering a crisp and mouth-watering finish. Perfect for sipping on the patio or matched with light appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cave de Roquebrun ‘Roches Noires Macération’ 2007
AOC Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun $17.95 (177519) 13.5% alcohol
There’s good bang for your buck with this Wine of the Month selection—it’s balanced and brimming with flavour. Intense aromas and flavours abound with bramble berry, black currant and red pie cherry galore mingling with savoury herbs and hints of dark chocolate. Mid weight and well textured, it dishes up a lengthy aftertaste of ripe berry fruit and spiced black plum. There’s a splash of good moderating acidity for balance and a solid underpinning of tannin. Good on its own, better with food; pair with grilled beef steak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Pena 2006
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $13.95 (178392) 13.5% alcohol
This is southern Rhone Valley red in spades with a ripe succulent fruit taste and no rough edges, all smooth as silk. Aromas and flavours of mixed field berry fruit mingle with kirsch liqueur and hints of sweet herbs and spice. Medium bodied with a lovely mouth feel, this bistro-styled red sips well on its own and pairs well with burgers and pizza. Earning its final ½ star on value, it finished sweet and lengthy. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Sérame ‘Réserve du Château’ Corbières 2007
AOC Corbières $15.95 (175216) 13.0% alcohol
There’s rich and dense fruit galore in this straightforward red blend. Black raspberry, black currant and spiced black plum are predominant. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering fruit-forward finish that layers on moderating red pie cherry and hints of earthiness. Best when paired with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois ‘La Livinière’ 2007
AOC Minervois $19.95 (017137) 15.5% alcohol
Deep, dense and dark in appearance and taste, this delivers an endless stream of rich bold fruit flavour on the palate—spice-infused sweet bramble berry, ripe succulent mulberry and black currant galore. This is mid weight and nicely textured proffering an involved and balanced aftertaste of warm dark cherry and black licorice. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine la Casenove ‘La Colomina’ 2006
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $15.95 (074542) 14.5% alcohol
Clean, lively and bistro-styled, there are lifted aromas of forest floor and black currant jam. The racy tangy wash on the palate carries red currant, cranberry and fresh strawberry flavour. It’s light-medium bodied with a good spine of acidity that runs throughout. The aftertaste is dry and mouth-watering good adding hints of spiced black plum. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel’ 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône $29.95 (048884) 14.5% alcohol
First off, make certain you get some—it’s elegant, structured, age-worthy and from one the world’s leading wine families. It’s balanced, lively and richly concentrated with aromas of savoury spice, black pepper, licorice and berry fruit. These replay on the palate coupled with ripe juicy cherry and black currant. Medium weight, complex and richly textured, the lengthy finish is underpinned with fine-grained tannin and framed with good acidity. Drinking well now with red meat dishes, it’ll improve to 2016 and drink beyond. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils ‘Les Cornuds’ Vinsobres 2007
AOC Vinsobres $17.95 (566844) 14.0% alcohol
Another fine wine from the Perrin family—makers of Beaucastel and others—this 50-50 Grenache/Syrah blend delivers a delicious mouthful of racy tangy red wine. The subtle nose of black pepper, spice and black licorice segues a steady stream of flavour with pie cherry, black currant and spice-infused cranberry to the fore. It’s balanced, medium bodied and well textured sporting a mid-length dry tangy finish. Great paired with meat-laden pizza or pasta in spicy tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Pineraie Cahors 2006
AOC Cahors $14.95 (078725) 13.0% alcohol

The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. Smoke, woodsy and crushed dark berry fruit aromas billow from this tangy and lively Malbec. On the palate there’s racy pie cherry, black berry and gamy notes. It’s perfectly balanced with good texture and a mouth-watering fruity finish that’s ably supported by supple tannin and framed by moderating acidity. Good to go now with a two-hour decant, perfectly paired with lamb kebabs. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé

****1/2 drink now
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2009
AOC Tavel $15.95 (739474) 13.0% alcohol
Tavel is the benchmark appellation for French Rosé and this is a dandy. All kinds of spice and floral aromas segue a dry, crisp river of strawberry, red currant and cran-apple flavour. It’s light-medium bodied with a very nice mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Think of summer, warm sunshine and sipping on this; pick up 2 or 3 bottles. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Paolo Conterno ‘Bricco’ Barbera d’Alba 2008
DOC Barbera d’Alba $16.95 (744714) 14.0% alcohol
This Barbera is ‘top of the hill’ a.k.a. Bricco, featuring a racy spine of acidity coupled with flavours of Montmorency cherry, red currant and spiced ripe cranberry mingling with nuances of sweet cassis. Light-medium weight and lightly textured, the drying finish is underpinned by perceptible, but acceptable, tannin. It ratchets up a notch or two when paired with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $38.95 (149534) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy, floral and dark berry aromas waft from this rich and tangy Brunello. Flavours of pie cherry, cassis and red currant sail along through the mid-length dry racy finish. It’s fairly well balanced and provides sufficient weight and mouth feel. Drink now after a two-hour decant and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
I Castei ‘Costamaran’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (972406) 14.0% alcohol
A trusted and value-driven producer hits the mark yet again with this Ripasso. Dark, dusty and earthy on the nose, it develops well in the glass blossoming forth with sweet rich flavours of succulent boysenberry, raisin and fig. Balanced and nicely textured, the finish layers on mocha and hints of spice. Lovely on its own and delectable with red meat—try a rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Cellar Piñol ‘Ludovicus’ 2008
DO Terra Alta $13.95 (067033) 14.5% alcohol
Spain’s always a good place to seek a bargain; this red blend is a standout example. It’s well balanced and well textured with good focus via an endless wash of juicy red berry fruit flavour coupled with spice and hints of kirsch liqueur. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t; it won’t be on shelves long. Nice on its own, it has oomph and balance to pair with a variety of meats—beef, lamb or pork—and pasta in meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Solar Vieja ‘Alavesa Crianza’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (167635) 13.5% alcohol
This is uncomplicated and brimming with aroma and flavour. The nose delivers vanilla and field berry fruit while the palate’s treated to succulent bramble berry and spiced black plum. Mid weight and medium textured, the aftertaste is lengthy and fruit-forward with just a lick of toasty oak and ripe, fine-grained tannin. It’s perfectly matched with burgers, meat-laden pizza or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

****1/2 drink now
Generations Wine ‘Union Red’ 2007
VQA Ontario $13.95 (197152) 12.5% alcohol
This is balanced, fruit driven and lip-smacking good red offering excellent value. Smooth as silk and flavourful, each sip betters the one before. Fresh field berry fruit and savoury herb on the nose, it bathes the palate with balanced and fruity flavours of crushed black currant and black juicy cherry mingling with nuances of ripe black plum. The blend—Pinot Noir, the two Cabernets, Merlot and Gamay Noir—is food friendly, pairing well with beef fajitas, meat-laden pizza or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Generations Wine ‘Union White’ 2009
VQA Ontario $13.95 (197145) 12.0% alcohol
Tangy, refreshing and lively on the palate, this delivers a vibrant stream of complex aromas and flavours—minerality, herbaceous savoury notes, rosewater and crisp green apple. Balance, purity of fruit and a focused spine of racy tang pour from a fusion of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay. A value-driven summer sipper for deck or patio, it pairs well with chicken, pork or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Open Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (175349) 11.3% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral and spice open this sweet and spicy fruit-forward Rosé. Strawberry and candied cherry flavours mingle with hints of spice on the palate and lingering finish. It’s mid weight and fanciful with good texture. Serve well chilled either on its own or alongside spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Open Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.05 (178681) 11.9% alcohol
Value-driven and bursting with flavour, this is perfumed and flavourful with a racy tangy aftertaste that’ll have you looking for more. There are oodles of aromas in the herbaceous and zesty lemon-lime zones. It then delivers a crisp and refreshing mouthful of zingy white wine. It’s just the thing for deck sipping or pairing with prawns, seafood appetizers or tzatziki-dipped raw veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay ‘Sur Lie’ 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (114686) 12.0% alcohol
There’s good balance, ripe fruit and a solid spine of acidity keeping this refreshing and full of zing. Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and hints of minerality segue a glorious mouthful of crisp and refreshing Chardonnay. It’s mid weight, generously textured and brimming with great depth of fruit—tangy green apple, succulent white peach and lemon zest. Drinking beautifully, it pairs well with chicken or pork—look for the spiffy new label. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

***** cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Meritage’ 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $60.15 13.5% alcohol
Dark, rich and bursting with complex flavour and promise, this red blend—Merlot and the two Cabernets—deserves serious consideration. Aromas of spice, toast, dark berry fruit and floral notes blossom from this medium-full bodied, amply textured gem. The palate’s treated to luscious flavours with cassis, pomegranate and kirsch liqueur to the fore. The balanced finish is adorned with savoury herbs and lingers impressively. Drink 2013 to 2018. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Rock Pile’ Pinot Gris 2009

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $26.15 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from some of the oldest Pinot Gris vines in Ontario, this is deftly balanced and fairly brimming with succulent fruit flavour held in check with excellent moderating acidity. Aromas and flavours of pear, apple and honeyed yellow plum abound. Medium weight and generously textured, it’s one delectable wine sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with lightly herbed and spiced chicken, pork or veal. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Lot No. 17’ Riesling 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.15 9.0% alcohol
Dazzling in focus and structure, this delivers a laser-like stream of racy acidity matched with ripe succulent fruit flavours—white peach, ripe pineapple and green apple. There’s slate and strong mineral tones on the nose while the yin and yang / sweet and tang on the balanced finish is lip-smacking good. Wonderful now, better in 3 or 4 years. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Rosehall Run Vineyards Sullyzwicker 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 11.5% alcohol
Flavour-laden and full of value, this aromatic white blend delivers a perfumed nose of exotic spice, musk melon and tree fruit. It’s totally delicious and satisfying on the palate with a delectable wash of sweet and tang flavour—succulent white peach, lemon chiffon pie and lip-smacking ripe pineapple. It’s light bodied with a nice texture and a refreshing mouth-watering aftertaste. What’s not to like? Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Sullyzwicker’ 2009
VQA Ontario $14.95 (111914) 12.5% alcohol
This lively red blend—75% Cabernet Franc and Gamay—is racy and tangy with sprigs of savoury herb. There’s aromas and flavours of toast, red currant, spiced dark berry and hints of cran-apple juice. It’s light on its feet with a crisp refreshing mid length finish. Good to drink now on its own or paired with deli-platter food. Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall Run – LCBO available in fall. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wines

‘The world doesn’t need another Chardonnay’ – according to Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. You don’t know who Yiannis is? You soon will. Read more...

**** drink now
Gai’a Wines Agiorgitiko 2008
Nemea, Greece $19.00 13.7% alcohol
This Agiorgitiko a.k.a. St. George, is one of the best-known local varieties delivering a well-balanced and fruit-driven red. This delivers aromas and complex flavours of spiced black plum, tangy red field berry and succulent black cherry. It’s mid weight, nicely textured sporting a lengthy balanced finish of berry fruit and black plum. There’s good structure from soft fine-grained tannin, plus a lip-smacking aftertaste. Order by the case of 6 for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Gai’a Wines ‘S’ 2007
Nemea, Greece $28.00 13.5% alcohol

This red blend—70% Agiorgitiko / 30% Syrah—jumps from the glass with aromas of black pepper, savoury spice and herb and ripe bramble berry. There’s great purity of complex fruit flavour—spicy black currant, black cherry and ripe boysenberry—that washes in waves over the palate and through the endless balanced spice-infused aftertaste. The 12 months in new small French barrique has been seamlessly integrated. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and punches well above the price. Order by the case of 6 for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gai’a Wines ‘Estate’ 2006
Nemea, Greece $39.00 13.8% alcohol
Their flagship wine, this is elegant and structured with good complexity. 100% Agiorgitiko, this saw 30 days extraction in seasoned oak vats then 12 – 14 months in predominantly French oak barrique. On the nose there is a savoury spice, dark berry fruit and mineral bouquet. Complex flavours blossom on the palate with black currant and spiced black plum to the fore. It’s medium-bodied with a silky smooth mouth feel and lingering fruity cherry/berry finish. The oak is well integrated and the tannins supple and smooth. Order by the case of 6 for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

This is a seldom-used channel for sourcing fabulous wine not available except by traveling the world to various wineries. The agent sources these wines via the LCBO, but you won’t find them on store shelves. It’s like having access to wine that your friends only read about. You wait a few weeks, but these wines are special. Contact the agent listed at the end of the tasting review.

**** drink now
Vignoble Gibault Sauvignon 2009
AOC Touraine 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of mineral, floral and citrus roll from this mid-weight, nicely textured crisp and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a tangy persistent wave of flavour with ripe white peach, sweet honeydew melon and lively lemon and pineapple to the fore. Refreshing and crisp on the aftertaste it delivers a lovely mouthful of well-balanced wine. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs well with fish and shellfish. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar
Domaine de la Poulette ‘Les Vaucrains’ Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru 2005
AOC Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru $68.00 13.0% alcohol
Savoury spice and tangy red berry fruit aromas open this lightly textured Pinot Noir from one of the best Burgundy vintages in memory. It features a persistent rivulet of savoury red cherry and red currant flavour on the palate carried along on a solid spine of acidity underpinned by perceptible tannin. There are hints of sweet back berry on the mid-length finish. Decant for three hours and pair with coq au vin or drink after 2013. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Ch. Wantz Muscat ‘M – Collection Personnelle’ 2007
AOC Alsace $18.00 12.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard gem delivers a perfumed nose of fragrant spring flowers, exotic spice, grapes and musk melon. It’s creamy smooth on the palate with a generous river of well-balanced flavour—spiced yellow plum, ripe sweet yellow peach and ripe pineapple. Sipping beautifully on its own, it’s substantive enough to pair with chicken, veal or light spicy appetizers. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)

Gai’a Wines ‘Notios’ White 2009
Pelopenese, Greece $16.00 12.0% alcohol

A fusion of two indigenous varietals—the aromatic Moscophilero and the racy Roditis, this delivers a delicately perfumed nose of rosewater and spice. The palate’s treated to a medium-bodied nicely textured and focused persistent stream of tangy lemon-lime and red currant. The finish is crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering. It’s the perfect aperitif and pairs well with lightly breaded and pan-seared calamari. Available for purchase by the case of 6 from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Gai’a Wines ‘Notios’ Red 2009
Nemea, Greece $16.00 13.5% alcohol

Bistro-styled and bursting with fresh vibrant fruit, this is easy drinking with a difficult to argue value-driven price. On the nose it’s grape-like while on the palate it’s rich and luscious with oodles of flavour—black berry and spiced black plum. It has a generous mouth feel, is nicely structured and dishes out a lingering balanced aftertaste. Lovely sipped on its own, it has the stuffing to match with grilled lamb kebabs. Order by the case of 6 for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Gai’a Wines Assyrtiko ‘Wild Ferment’ 2009
Santorini, Greece $24.00 13.5% alcohol
Eighty-year-old vines, wild yeast and meticulous viticulture and wine making techniques coalesce to produce this racy gem. Aromas of minerality, citrus and tree fruit abound on the nose while the flavours on the palate are key lime, white grapefruit and ripe lemon—look for more succulent fruit flavours to develop after short term aging. Good to go now with fish and shellfish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. Order by the case of 6 for home or office delivery from The Small Winemakers Collection or from Rob Elvy at 613.530.0575. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan