Winecurrent

June 12, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on wines from South Africa followed by the Main Release and is sprinkled throughout with wines for Father’s day. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • The new economic reality – LCBO buyers are reacting to the public’s demand for value. With continuing pressure to reduce prices, the results are in—4 wines in this release are 4½ stars for under $15, with another 6 at 4½ stars under $20
  • Finding Waldo – 2 reds ring the five-star bell, both from Ontario
  • Summer sipping – there are 2 gems under Italian: White Wine worth a peek
  • two glasses – Susan and Vic found 3 wines they both loved

South Africa Feature

**** drink now
Leopard’s Leap ‘Family Collection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
WO Western Cape $18.95 (146886) 13.5% alcohol
Green, grassy and pungent aromas abound followed by a flavour-packed lip-smacking mouthful of zesty flavour with oodles of racy citrus, pineapple and gooseberry. Not for sissies, this dishes out a spine of focused acidity right through the persistent mouth-watering finish. Divine on its own, better with lightly breaded skillet-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Graham Beck Chardonnay 2008
WO Robertson $14.95 (593475) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance ratio skews in your favour; pick up a few for summer/fall sipping or pouring with barbecued wings. Aromas of toast, vanilla and tropical fruit waft easily from the expressive nose with a gusher of flavour to follow—green apple, citrus and spice-infused yellow plum predominant. It’s mid weight nicely, textured and balanced with a mid-length, crisp and clean oak-nuanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Spier ‘Vintage Selection’ Pinotage 2006
WO Coastal Region $17.95 (146928) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoke and espresso roast mingling with mint-infused cherry segue a medium-bodied nicely textured wash of flavour—succulent mulberry and red pie cherry galore. It sports a lengthy dry finish with perceptible tannin and moderating acidity. Decant two hours and serve alongside grilled rib-eye. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Flagstone ‘Dark Horse’ Shiraz 2007 

WO Western Cape $17.95 (127654) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 12, 2009) With earthy and heavily toasted notes dominating the expressive nose and the expansive complex flavours –sweet black plum compote, spiced raisin cake, mulberry jam and exotic Asian spice—there’s a compelling case for a multiple purchase. This is a classy limited-production Shiraz —only 70 barrels made. It’s full bodied, fully textured and well balanced with a lingering aftertaste of espresso roast. Give it a go with spicy smoked and grilled pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Post House ‘Penny Black’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (148619) 15.0% alcohol
Perfumed and complex aromas—slate, red cherry/berry and exotic spice blossom off this racy delectable food wine. Rich and concentrated on the palate, there’s a cascade of flavour with lots of pie cherry, sweet savoury herbs and red cranberry throughout. It’s framed with good moderating acidity and underpinned with ripe tannin. The lingering dry racy finish is lip-smacking good. Pour with rare-grilled steak or hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vergelegen Mill ‘Race’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2006
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (146530) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a rich nose of dark berry fruit and spice box aromas in this gem of a blend. The palate’s treated to an endless stream of fruit-forward flavour with cranberry, black currant and succulent juicy black Bing cherry. Mid weight, nicely textured, it delivers a long aftertaste that’s wrapped in still resolving tannin. Wait a couple of years or decant a few hours and pour with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Mausberg Blanc de Blancs Brut Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $17.95 (171785) 10.5% alcohol
This provides good value, loads of flavour and serious fine-bead bubbles; what’s not to like? It opens with a tantalizing nose of orange blossom, honeyed orange and citrus aromas followed by a lovely mousse attack on the palate with oodles of racy zesty flavour—lemongrass, red currant and citrus galore. It’s light on its feet with a refreshing mouth-watering finish. It’s the perfect aperitif with which to welcome guests. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Attractive and beautifully crafted, complex aromas of earthiness, underbrush and barnyard combine with luscious spicy red and black cherry. It’s medium bodied with delectable fruit throughout. Perceptible tannin and fresh acidity underlay rich flavours of tangy red berry fruit, black cherry and pepper. The warm flavours continue to seduce on the mid palate leading to a persistent spicy dry finish. Drink now with smoked duck breast or cellar another 3 – 5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2009 

VQA Niagara Escarpment $14.95 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010) Produced from a blend of fairly equal quantities of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot, this is a lovely rosé with ripe berry flavours and aromas—cherry and raspberry—along with underlying notes of mineral and graphite. It’s light-medium bodied with a crisp texture and a refreshing fruit-filled finish. Scrumptious on its own, pair with pizza or spicy Italian sausage. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Morgan ‘Highland’ Chardonnay 2007
Santa Lucia Highlands $32.95 (953273) 14.2% alcohol
Rich and lush, this bolts from the glass with perfumed aromas of toasty oak and vanilla. Full-bodied and generously textured, there’s a steady wash of flavour on the palate and through the mid-length finish—ripe white peach, Bosc pear and toasty oak. Even better in a couple of years, it pairs well now with sweetbreads in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bogle Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $17.95 (904565) 13.5% alcohol
This is a screaming buy, oozing value and full of flavour. Friendly and approachable from the get-go, this washes the palate with flavour—spice-infused blood plum, black currant and cassis. It’s mid weight, sumptuously textured and sports a lengthy balanced fruit-forward finish. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $74.95 (189795) 14.5% alcohol
Dark—almost inky—rich and concentrated, mouth-coating complex flavours abound with dark chocolate, black currant, juicy Bing cherry and nuances of mint. Medium-full bodied with a bounteous mouth feel, the lingering aftertaste replays those same delicious flavours found on the palate adding on a layer of moderating lip-smacking tang. Good balance, good value and good for you if your budget allows it. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps ‘Innisfree’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $37.95 (038125) 13.5% alcohol
This is not that far off its big brother above and it’s half the price. Smoke, espresso roast and dark field berry fruit on the nose, it gets into high gear on the palate dishing out a rush of luscious flavour with sweet kirsch liqueur, briary berry and savoury-infused cranberry predominant. It’s certainly approachable now with great balance a nice mouth feel coupled with a mid-length finish. Give it a go with rare-grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Renwood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2005
Amador County $19.95 (425504) 15.0% alcohol
Smooth, mellow, sweet and succulent, this is what Zinfandel is all about. There’s a lovely wave of flavour that just won’t quit with oodles of black berry, black currant jam and spiced black plum. Very round and silky smooth, it’s lavishly textured and finishes lengthy and unabashedly fruit forward and friendly. A lovely drop on its own, it’s the perfect dance partner with grilled steak. It’s also pretty good value given the flavour profile. (Vic Harradine)

Mexico: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2007
Baja California $11.95 (983742) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty, smoky and red berry fruit on the nose this easy-sipping bistro-styled red punches well above its price. It’s well textured, round and ready to drink dishing out a mouthful of flavour—sweet ripe dark berry fruit and kirsch liqueur that persists through the lengthy nicely balanced tangy finish. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Finca Flichman ‘Gestos’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $15.95 (068999) 14.0% alcohol
The concept is fruit grown at two altitudes in two sub-regions—700 metres in Barrancas and 1100 metres in Tupungato. The reality is luscious well-balanced waves of mouth-coating flavour with briary berry, wild gamey notes and luscious kirsch liqueur flavours galore. Rich and concentrated, it’s medium weight, nicely textured delivering terrific value. I’m still drinking the ’07, but will pick up some of this. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Blue Pyrenees Shiraz 2006
Pyrenees, Victoria $16.95 (935890) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 12, 2009) Dark and inky coloured, this value-packed gem offers expressive aromas of spice, dark berry fruit and cherry. Flavourful and very well balanced it dishes up a big mouthful of ripe succulent fruit—black Damson plum and chocolate-dipped Bing cherry—framed by tangy acidity and a ripe resolved tannin structure. The finish is lingering with added nuances of blueberry and vanilla. This punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hugh Hamilton ‘The Ratbag’ Merlot 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (059972) 15.0% alcohol
Rich and concentrated, dark and brooding, this delivers a remarkable river of flavour—tangy pie cherry, thick and rich blackberry and opulent lashings of minty cherry. It’s full bodied and fully textured. Deftly balanced and oozing charm, it delivers a crowd-pleasing lip-smacking lengthy aftertaste of cassis and pie cherry flavour. With every sip better than the last, it’s perfect for sipping or pairing with food; give it a go with gourmet sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Tahbilk Shiraz 2006
Nagambie Lakes, Victoria $19.95 (214742) 14.0% alcohol
Tahbilk is Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery with ancient Shiraz vines that are amongst the oldest in the world. Balanced and beautiful, look for toast, spice and berry fruit aromas as segue to a surge of fruit flavour—bramble berry, Bing cherry and succulent mulberry mingling with dark chocolate and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied, with a bounteous texture while the extended aftertaste layers on sprigs of mint and a fine-grained ripe tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP Flowers’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (069245) 13.0% alcohol
This is quite herbaceous on the nose with aromas of lemongrass, freshly mown grass and sprigs of sweet herbs. A fresh and tingling spine of acidity runs throughout with ripe lemon and white grapefruit galore mingling with streaks of pineapple. It’s light bodied and provides a crisp and refreshing finish. Perfectly paired with pan-seared freshwater fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Kim Crawford ‘Pansy Rosé’ 2009 

New Zealand $17.95 (650325) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010) It’s the 9th vintage for this wine, dedicated to Auckland’s gay community. It’s Merlot based, slightly off-dry and absolutely delectable. Alluring aromas and mouth-watering flavours abound with freshly picked strawberry, spiced red currant and juicy tangy cherry among them. It’s medium weight with a generous texture and a mid-length refreshing aftertaste. A fine drop on its own, it has the structure and balance to pair well with fish, chicken and deli-platter cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 cellar
Domaine de Saint Siffrein Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (169771) 14.5% alcohol
Immensely perfumed, the nose dishes up an array of aromas with fennel, espresso roast and exotic spice to the fore. Full bodied and fully textured it has a solid underpinning of still resolving tannin. Complex flavours abound with cassis, tangy pie cherry, black berry and ripe mulberry among them. It’s well structured and displays deft balance. The monumental aftertaste layers on garrigue and lip-smacking red berry fruit. This will reward careful cellaring; drink 2013 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Les Piliers Syrah 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (678086) 14.5% alcohol
Owned by the iconic and ebullient Michel Gassier, this dances from the glass with lifted aromas of toast, smoke and oak plus licorice and tarry notes. Palate-coating flavours run wild with rich, dark and concentrated fruit—black currant, mulberry and red pie cherry—melding nicely with spice and herb notes. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured sporting a lingering well-balanced finish. Certainly worth a hard look at a multiple purchase given the value. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2009
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $16.95 (954024) 13.5% alcohol
This is a cut above most Pinot Grigio. It zooms from the glass with expressive aromas of floral, honeysuckle and slate. A focused rivulet of flavour along with good purity of fruit persists throughout—key lime, zesty pineapple and racy lemon. Light-medium weight with good texture, it’s dry, crisp and refreshing with a mouth-watering citrus aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Marchesi di Barolo ‘Zagara’ Moscato d’Asti
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $15.95 (168195) 6.0% alcohol
A sunny summer day in a glass, this provides an uncomplicated delightful spritzy white that’s low in alcohol and high in pleasurable sipping. There’s a lovely sweetness on the palate and finish ameliorated by the frizzante spritz—slightly sparkling. It’s perfect for sipping or enjoying with a fresh fruit cup or flan. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Librandi ‘Duca San Felice Riserva’ Rosso 2007
DOC Cirò $16.95 (695874) 13.5% alcohol
Bright, lively and focused, the price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour—decant for three hours or tuck it away for a couple of years to tame the tannin. This is loaded with flavour—sweet cherry, cassis and herbs—framed by excellent moderating acidity. It has character and pizzazz along with a lengthy finish. Decant and pour with hearty fare, osso bucco or a generous slab of beef, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Paolo Conterno Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $37.95 (172783) 14.0% alcohol
Owner Paolo Conterno is the über traditionalist of Barolo and it’s reflected in the wine—aged 24 months in French oak barrels. Highly polished and full of character, it’s surprisingly approachable at this early age, but would benefit from another 3 years of careful cellar ageing. Aromas and flavours galore here with tar, lilac, licorice and sweet dark berry fruit among them. It’s full bodied, well textured with a lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Argiolas ‘Costera’ 2007
DOC Cannonau di Sardegna $17.95 (099028) 14.0% alcohol
From primarily Cannonau grapes that were aged 6 to 8 months in French oak, this is full of texture and flavour laden. Complex aromas and flavours of forest floor, berry fruit, gamey notes and savoury herb abound on the nose, palate and aftertaste. Mid weight and nicely textured it delivers good bang for the buck and earned its final ½ star on value. Pair with spicy gourmet sausage or deli-platter fare. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rocca Della Macìe ‘Tenuta Sant’ Alfonso’ Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (942094) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe and mouth filling, it dishes up a delectable wash of sweet liquid nectar with kirsch liqueur, cassis and bramble berry to the fore. It’s nicely structured with good weight, bountiful texture and a lengthy finish emblazoned with succulent fruit and spice. It’ll drink well for the next four to five years, pouring perfectly with grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (695890) 13.0% alcohol
Dark chocolate, camphor and raisin on the nose, it coats the palate with charm and flavour—ripe juicy black Bing cherry, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused black Damson plum. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a mid-length lip-smacking finish that’s dry, crisp and fruity. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 7, 2010

**** drink now
Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône 2008
AOC Côtes du Rhône $13.95 (142125) 13.5% alcohol
The deep purple robe of this Syrah, Grenache blend portends the rich aromas of dark berry fruit, toasty oak and sweet spice. Ripe fruit flavours wash across the palate complemented with fine-grained tannins and soft acidity. This is well structured and medium-full bodied, displaying very interesting notes of dark chocolate on the lingering finish. It’s excellent value and a great match for grilled meats or vegetables. Or, as they do in the Rhône, after dinner with hard French cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: August 21, 2010

**** drink or cellar
No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates ‘Estate Series’ Cabernet Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.7% alcohol
A well-structured red blend—60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc—it bolts from the glass with lifted complex aromas of black cherry, dark berry fruit, leather and toast. Rich fruit-forward flavours abound on the palate and lingering finish with mint-infused cherry, black currant and nuances of kirsch liqueur among them. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and sports a perceptible tannin underpinning; decant for three hours and pour with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 18, 2010

****1/2 drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007 

VQA Four Mile Creek $25.00 (79228) 12.0% alcohol
This is value-packed and bursting with ripe juicy flavour—prime fruit, a fabulous red wine vintage and a top notch winemaker coalesce in this beautifully balanced gem. Aromas of exotic spice and cherry segue fruit-forward flavours with ripe succulent mulberry, red cherry and wisps of toast predominant. It’s mid weight, deftly balanced dishing out a lengthy fruity aftertaste mingling with a ripe tannin underpinning. Pair with smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pietro Rinaldi ‘Madonna di Como’ Dolcetto d’Alba 2008
DOC Dolcetto d’Alba $17.95 (182261) 13.0% alcohol
This family-owned estate has been producing wines in Piemonte since 1920. Ruby with a purple tint, it saw no oak. It displays quite complex aromas of forest floor, spicy flowers, sweet herbs and fresh red fruits. Mid weight and dry, it has a fresh spine of acidity and ripe tannins overlaid with lashings of red fruit—cherry, red currant and raspberry. The finish is long and tangy with an elusive earthy note. A great food wine, serve it with tomato-based dishes or meats with a tomato-based BBQ sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: October 16, 2010

**** drink now
Jean-Max Roger Sancerre ‘Cuvée G.C.’ 2008
AOC Sancerre $26.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol
A brilliant pale yellow-green, this has lifted aromas of white peach, citrus and tantalizing herbaceous notes. It’s dry, medium bodied and silky textured with a lovely stream of tangy acidity. Look for bright fruit flavours with freshly squeezed citrus to the fore. Elegant, crisp and clean, it has a refreshing and long-lasting finish. It’s a great match for seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

****1/2 drink now two glasses
Albert Bichot ‘Pinot Noir’ 2007
AOC Burgundy $14.95 (166959) 12.3% alcohol
Susan and I oohed and awed over this; it’s flavour packed and earned it’s final ½ star on value. Smelling like Pinot from Burgundy—so few do—it brims with earthy notes, savoury spice and strawberry aromas. It’s well structured, complex and dishes up a nicely textured mouthful of balanced flavour on the palate and lengthy aftertaste—cranberry, spice and red cherry. Lovely alone, superb with herb-rubbed roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
C’est la Vie Pinot Noir-Syrah 2008
Vin de Pays $11.95 (166934) 12.7% alcohol
Semi-opaque and ruby red with some violet notes, this bistro-styled red has a ripe fruity nose with attractive hints of spice and red licorice. It’s dry, medium bodied and easy drinking with refreshing acidity matched with juicy berry fruit and notes of pepper and spice. Well balanced, it has a warm fruity finish. Good value here. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (144865) 11.3% alcohol
Floral, mineral and white peach on the nose, this delivers a delectable mouthful of well-balanced sweet and tang flavour—key lime pie, ripe succulent tropical fruit and green apple. Mid weight and nicely textured it finishes with a mouth-watering shower of crisp refreshing citrus tang. It’s a great quaffing wine with the oomph to pair with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates Unoaked Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (63826) 12.7% alcohol
Brimming with flavour and value, it earned its final ½ star on the attractive price-quality ratio. Perfumed aromas of melon, peach and floral notes segue crisp refreshing waves of mouth-watering flavour with Granny Smith apple, white peach and pineapple to the fore. Medium bodied with a generously textured mouth feel, the lip-smacking finish persists with good purity of fruit flavour and delicate balance. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pelee Island Dry Riesling 2008

VQA Ontario $10.95 (136028) 13.0% alcohol 

Fermented in stainless, this is a clear straw color with attractive aromas of luscious stone and tree fruit. It's dry and fruity with a backbone of lively acidity overlaid with the enticing flavours—apricots, nectarines, peaches, pears and a squirt of lemon/lime. Light-medium bodied, it has a lively fruity mid-length finish. It’s a great match with grilled chicken salad with strawberries, spinach and feta. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘Beal Vineyards’ Cabernet Rosé 2009 

VQA Beamsville Bench $11.95 (177840) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice and cherry waft easily from this light-on-its-feet mid-weight beauty. Crisp, fresh and lively, this delivers a persistent wash of lively red field berry, savoury spice with hints of blood orange. It finishes clean and refreshing, easily pairing with light appetizers like smoked salmon or crab cakes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rigal ‘The Original’ Malbec 2009 

Vin de Pays du Lot $11.95 (159178) 12.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dark field berry fruit and mint-infused cherry segue a persistent wash of ripe fruit-flavours with cassis, black currant and lip-smacking lively pie cherry galore. It’s nicely balanced, medium bodied with a rich silky mouth feel sporting a lengthy fruity finish. Well paced, crowd-pleasing and value-packed. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Rosemount Estate Cabernet Merlot 2009
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (552000) 13.5% alcohol
Set out the deck chairs and roll out the BBQ for this crowd-pleasing Aussie blend. Rich, spicy, fruity aromas carry through on the palate along with a smooth, round and generous texture. It’s well balanced with soft acidity and ripe tannin complementing the dark berry flavours. A great match for grilled pizza or well-dressed burgers. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

***1/2 drink now
Calamus Estate Winery ‘White’ 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $12.20 12.3% alcohol
Easy sipping and easy on the wallet, this is a value-packed blend—75% Riesling, 25% Chardonnay. There’s a full basket of aroma and flavour with green apple, ripe peach and yellow plum among them. It’s mid weight, nicely textured, with sweet and tang present throughout. Clean and refreshing, it sports a crisp mouth-watering finish. A good wine to sip or to pair with appetizers. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Calamus Estate Winery ‘Semi Sweet’ Riesling 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $16.20 12.3% alcohol
Sweet pit fruit with hints of floral and sweet herbs on the nose, this delivers a boatload of sweet succulent fruit flavours on the palate—pineapple, melon and peach—finishing with a crisp grapefruit pith aftertaste. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and best served well chilled. Sip on its own or pair with roast pork with dried apricot stuffing. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2008 

VQA Four Mile Creek $21.95 (50450) 12.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of dark ripe fruit, cedar and mixed spice blossom from the full-blown nose. There’s a gusher of complex flavour on the palate with tangy pie cherry, succulent briary berry and fennel-infused cassis galore. This is balanced and well structured with fine-grained acceptable tannin and a generous mouth feel. The lengthy finish provides a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with rare-grilled strip loin. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008 

VQA Four Mile Creek $34.95 12.0% alcohol
Hand-picked and aged 14 months in small French oak barrels, this opens with a perfumed and alluring nose of lilac, mixed spice box and dark berry fruit. It brims with flavour—succulent mulberry, ripe juicy Bing cherry, earthy notes and spice-infused blood plum. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a drying tangy fruit-forward finish. Decant two hours and pour with hearty fare—osso bucco or cassoulet. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Marynissen Estates Cabernet Franc 2007 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.00 13.0% alcohol
Expressive aromas of sweet savoury, forest-floor underbrush along with dark rich berry fruit waft freely. Succulent flavours of blood plum, cranberry and briary berry abound on the palate and persist through the lingering aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and underpinned by still-resolving tannin. Certainly approachable now after a two-hour decant, it’ll ratchet up a notch or two after 3 years in the cellar. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Marynissen Estates ‘Unfiltered – Lot 66’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $36.00 14.0% alcohol 

This is a tour de force in winemaking and not to be missed —hats off to winemaker Jeff Hundertmark. It’s rich, concentrated and chockfull of structure, flavour and promise with excellent drinking between 2013 and 2018 as the tannin needs to resolve. Aromas of cedar, spice, toast and dark berry fruit flow off this full-bodied generously textured behemoth. Rich concentrated flavours abound on the palate and lengthy finish with cassis, Bing cherry and mulberry predominant. One dollar per bottle donated to the St. Catherines General Hospital in memory of John Marynissen. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 13.75% alcohol
Simply gorgeous, it’s ripe and chockfull of flavour and texture. Tropical fruit, floral and sweet savoury aromas segue a fleshy mouthful of salad bowl of tropical fruit and lemon pie filling. It’s mid weight, generously textured sporting a lengthy lip-smacking finish. It’s far from pungent Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but not too far from perfect—pick up a few for deck sitting and summer sipping. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.00 (200 ml) 11.5% alcohol
Coloured a rosy blush of ripe peach, enticing aromas of raspberry coulis, spun brown sugar and sweet spice segue a silky textured wash of delectable subtle flavour—red berries, spice and light caramel—underpinned with fruity acidity. It’s luscious and nicely balanced. The sweet fruit-forward finish is prolonged and lively. Delicious on its own, it also pairs well with strawberries dipped in dark chocolate. Either way, you’ll want more. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Winery Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.00 11.5% alcohol
Early petrol, citrus, mineral and key lime aromas abound on the nose of this semi-sweet Riesling. It’s quite fleshy on the palate with oodles of tropical fruit—mango, melon and pineapple—mingling with sweet savoury nuances throughout. The finish is clean and refreshing. This is a very good effort from the warm ‘07 vintage that didn’t particularly favour this varietal. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Heady aromas of toasted oak, espresso roast and savoury spice-infused mulberry zoom from the glass of this tangy lip-smacking red. Racy flavours of mint, red cherry and cranberry mingle with nuances of chocolate and kirsch liqueur. It’s still gripped by chalky tannin finishing with hints of bell pepper. Mid weight and textured, this benefits from a two-hour decant and poured alongside spaghetti Bolognese. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Lauritzen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 13.0% alcohol
Savoury spice, cedar and coffee aromas segue a delightful wave of focused tangy flavour—red cherry, spiced black plum and succulent black currant mingling with flint and mineral tones. It’s well balanced, mid weight and nicely textured with a mid length finish that replays the crisp dry flavours. Sipping nicely on its own, it ramps up a notch paired with smoked duck breast or crispy pork belly. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Tawse Winery ‘Carly’s Block’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 10.5% alcohol
Vic and I both found this flagship off-dry Riesling well balanced with an expressive nose displaying aromas of petrol, minerality and lime. Deftly made, using organic and biodynamic practices, it has gorgeous soft fruity citrus flavours underpinned with refined acidity. It displays great consistency on the palate with minerality plus sweet and tangy notes persisting through the lasting finish. Cellar or partner now with maple-glazed salmon. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 10.0% alcohol
Floral, mineral and spice-infused tree fruit aromas drift off this tightly focused nervy gem. This is a well-structured and well-paced classic dry Riesling fashioned from 10 year-old Weis 21-B clone vines. It’s mid weight with lip-smacking flavour—key lime, lemongrass and spiced white peach—carried along a taut, persistent spine of mouth-watering acidity. Order by the case of 6 for home or office daily delivery from Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars ‘Featherstone Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 10.0% alcohol
Subtle aromas of minerality, faint wisps of petrol and floral notes on the nose, there’s a boatload of Granny Smith apple flavour on the palate mingling with racy lemon-lime and ripe yellow plum. Meticulous fruit selection, minimal winemaker intervention and twenty-year-old vines coalesce in this mid-weight nicely textured Riesling. It finishes clean and refreshing with excellent balance. Order by the case of 6 for home or office daily delivery from Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars ‘Fox Croft Vineyard’ Riesling 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 11.0% alcohol
Savoury spice and citrus aromas segue a gusher of zesty white grapefruit, mint-infused lemon and green apple flavour. This is perfectly balanced, medium bodied with a very generous mouth feel and a lingering crisp, clean and refreshing aftertaste. Hand-picked, hand sorted and whole-bunch pressed, winemaker Kevin Panagapka feels ‘09 offered perfect conditions for Riesling—an outstanding wine reflecting terroir and vintage with minimal human intervention. Wine-lovers and Riesling aficionados take note, only 120 cases produced. Order by the case of 6 for home or office daily delivery from Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $34.95 12.5% alcohol
This is top-drawer Ontario Pinot—fresh and vibrant; there are lifted involved aromas of spice box, earthy underbrush, field berry fruit and black pepper followed by luscious flavours of red currant, succulent mulberry and black cherry. It’s deftly balanced, underpinned by fine-grained tannin and oak with juicy, tangy moderating acidity. Gorgeous after a two-hour decant, perfect cellared two more years. Only 75 cases made. Order by the case of 6 for home or office daily delivery from Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan