May 15, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on wines from Burgundy then a feature on California Chardonnay then yet another on Rosé followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue.


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Finding Waldo – 3 fabulous wines ring the 5 star bell
• Rosé Feature – it’s that time of year—some good ones here and throughout the release
• Approx. 80 wines reviewed – there has to be a few for you in here; many have suggested food pairings

Burgundy Feature

William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru 2007
AOC Chablis $29.95 (169805) 13.0% alcohol
This is quintessential Chablis with its dry, crisp and refreshing countenance. Nevertheless, it also offers a nice mouth feel and good fruit characteristics. Slate, mineral and citrus aromas on the nose, there’s plenty of nerve and verve with Granny Smith apple and pear flavours riding a bracing spine of acidity throughout. Chablis has a natural affinity for oysters; for an interesting treat, pour a bit of this wine over a freshly shucked one. (Vic Harradine)


Roux Père & Fils ‘La Chatenière’ Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2007
AOC Saint-Aubin $39.95 (169177) 13.5% alcohol
Charming aromas waft from this mid-weight nicely textured gem with toasty notes mingling with hints of floral and tree fruit. On the palate there’s white peach, green apple and savoury herb framed by good citrus acidity. It finishes with mouth-watering raciness, just the wine to pour with mussels steamed in a white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Romanin Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly 2008
AOC Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly $17.95 (160218) 13.0% alcohol
If you’re looking to test white Burgundy waters, here’s one that’s well priced revealing the main elements of what the dry, crisp and refreshing style has to offer. There’s also a more complex, muscular oaky style, but none offered here. With hints of green apple, lemongrass and mineral on the nose, it delivers a fine spine of ripe lemon and grapefruit tang on the palate and lip-smacking finish. Made better with fish and sea food, pair it with pan-seared scallops under a squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2008
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $32.95 (732917) 13.0% alcohol
Pouilly-Fuissé is arguabley the best appellation in the southern Burgundy Maconnais region with 2008 rated a good vintage. This displays subdued aromas of slate, mineral and spicy toasty notes as segue to a mouth-watering wash of delectable flavour with flavourful lemon, crisp green apple and ripe pear to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured with a dry refreshing finish. Pour alongside lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Maison Champy ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2006
AOC Bourgogne $18.95 (001149) 13.5% alcohol
A good wine to try your taste buds on what some refer to as ‘old-world’ styled Pinot Noir at a pretty decent price. Aromas of spicy red berry fruit and savoury herb open this light-medium bodied delicately textured red Burgundy. Pie cherry and red currant flavour surge on the palate and course through the dry, crisp and refreshing finish. Best with food, pair with duck terrine. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils ‘Les Grandes Vignes’ Nuits-St-Georges 2007
AOC Nuits-St-Georges $44.95 (981548) 13.5% alcohol
This is complex and well balanced with a boatload of flavour; it’s not pricey, as good Burgundies go, and it’s worthy of your consideration. Earthy, smoky and toasty aromas mingle with mixed berry fruit and spice on the involved nose. There’s a nice almalgam of complex fruit with tangy pie cherry and racy cranberry offset by ripe and succulent bramble berry, spiced black currant along with savoury nuances. It’s mid weight, medium textured sporting a lengthy, dry and spicy finish. Drinking now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Maison Champy Pommard 2007
AOC Pommard $49.95 (171405) 13.0% alcohol
Weighty with good structure from an underpinning of ripe supple tannin, this opens with aromas of mint-infused red cherry and mixed red berry fruit along with savoury spice. There’s a glorious rush of ripe succulent flavour on the palate with Bing cherry and black plum along with good moderating acidy and fine-grained tannin. It finishes crisp and mouth-watering delicious. It’s drinking well now, repaying short-term cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

California Chardonnay Feature

Cakebread Cellars Reserve Chardonnay 2006
Carneros, Napa Valley $84.95 (070763) 14.3% alcohol
Aromas of spicy baked apple, tropical fruit and oaky notes introduce this full-bodied richly textured classy Chardonnay. There are tart apple and tropical fruit flavours galore, all tightly wound with a serious spine of minerality and refreshing citrus acidity. The finish lingers with added layers of spice and perceptible oak. You can drink it now with roast chicken and all the fixings, or cellar another 3 or 4 years. (Vic Harradine)


Glass Mountain ‘Vintner’s Selection’ Chardonnay 2008
California $13.95 (533208) 13.5% alcohol
Subdued and alluring aromas of yellow peach, ripe pear and persimmon segue a clean and crisp, mid-weight and nicely textured wine. Green apple and racy lemon on the palate, it finishes mouth watering and refreshing. Try this value-packed offering with grilled chicken thinly sliced over lightly dressed Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Gold Label’ Chardonnay 2008
Monterey County $22.95 (708305) 13.5% alcohol
With hardly a misstep from Coppola, this is flavour-packed delivering good value. Involved aromas and flavours abound with tropical fruit, white peach and ripe juicy pear predominant and consistent throughout. It’s nicely textured, deftly balanced delivering a clean crisp refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)


Lander-Jenkins Vineyards ‘Spirit Hawk’ Chardonnay 2008
California $17.95 (162651) 13.5% alcohol
This offers excellent value earning its final half star on the price-quality imbalance; it’s tough to find better California Chardonnay at this price. It’s balanced with some complexity and a lingering aftertaste. The aromas and flavours—baking brioche, nutty nuances, crisp apple and citrus—are persistent and consistent throughout. A lovely sipping wine, it has the flavour and balance to pair well with lightly herbed roast chicken, veal or pork. (Vic Harradine)


Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay 2007
Sonoma County $19.95 (275552) 14.3% alcohol
With toast, spice and hints of floral on the nose, this delivers a wave of zingy and zesty flavour with crisp green apple, refreshing lemony citrus and ripe red grapefruit predominant. It’s mid weight, generously textured and sports a refreshing lip-smacking finish. Give it a go with moules et frites. (Vic Harradine)


J. Lohr ‘Arroyo Vista’ Chardonnay 2007
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County $29.95 (171272) 14.8% alcohol
There are aromas galore here with spicy toasty oak, tropical fruit and whiffs of hazelnut predominant. The complex flavours include lashings of spiced apple compote, poached pear and a salad bowl of ripe tropical fruit. Mid weight and chockfull of texture, the lingering and memorable finish is well balanced and delicious. This is outstanding with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Rosé Feature

Malivoire ‘Ladybug’ Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario $15.95 (559088) 12.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, mineral and red berry fruit on the nose, it serves up a delectable mouthful of tangy flavour—freshly sliced strawberry, ripe cranberry and racy ruby red grapefruit. Light-medium bodied, nicely textured and sporting a dry, crisp refreshing finish, this has the balance and structure to pair with a variety of dishes—a deli-platter, goat cheese salad or grilled salmon. Well paced, well priced and delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $14.95 (117861) 12.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed and alluring aromas roll easily from this off-dry beauty with rose petal, exotic spice, juicy watermelon and berry fruit galore. There’s a lot going on in this mid-weight nicely textured summertime sipper with jazzy flavours of red grapefruit, key lime pie and spiced red currant. The rich lingering aftertaste layers on nuances of ripe succulent red cherry and spice-laden red plum. Lovely on its own, it also matches up well with tuna tartare or spanakopita. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $15.95 (053421) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas and crisp tangy flavours of mixed field berry fruit, spiced cranberry and red grapefruit abound in this slightly off-dry lightly textured quaffer. There’s a delightful spine of acidity that’s consistent throughout. The aftertaste lingers, dry, crisp and refreshing. Perfectly paired with a green salad topped with crumbled feta. (Vic Harradine)


Perrin Réserve Rosé 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône, France $15.95 (719062) 13.5% alcohol
Spring flowers and lively aromas of fresh red cherry segue a burst of flavour on the palate with cherry clafoutie and cranberry tart mingling with spice and tang-laden citrus undertones. Mid weight with a good mouth feel, this lovely offering finishes lengthy, well balanced and delicious. Poured well with smoked meat, humus dip or a rich paté on a baguette. (Vic Harradine)


Château d’Aquéria Rosé Tavel 2009
AOC Tavel, Rhône Valley, France $18.95 (319368) 13.5% alcohol
The southern Rhône region of Tavel—regulated exclusively to Rosè made only from red grapes—is a bench mark for all Rosé and this perennial favourite doesn’t disappoint. Irridescent pink and blossoming with involved aromas—musky spice, rosewater and berry fruit—this delivers a mid-weight, nicely textured mouthful of flavour. Spiced black plum, rhubarb pie and pie cherry wash over the palate and persist on the lingering tang-laden finish. (Vic Harradine)


Château La Tour de l’Éveque Rosé 2009
AOC Côtes de Provence, France $18.95 (319392) 13.5% alcohol
This may be lightly coloured, but don’t be mislead, it delivers a delicious boatload of flavour. Aromas and flavour abound with ripe strawberry, spice-laden red currant, tangy cranberry and savoury pie cherry among them. It dances lightly on the palate with lingering, crisp and dry refreshing aftetrtaste. Sip on its own or pour alongside chicken in a creamy white sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Muga Rosé 2009
DOCa Rioja, Spain $12.95 (603795) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Viura (a white grape) and the balance Tempranillo, this Spanish ‘Rosado’ was fermented and aged—a brief 2 months—in 1000-litre wood barrels. As a result, it comes out punching with more texture and weight than most. Aromas and flavours reminiscent of cranberry-apple juice, red currant jelly and pie cherry abound. The finish is fruity, lingering and lip-smacking refreshing. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—pick up a few while you can. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

Pierrel ‘Les Oressences’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $43.95 (167502) 12.5% alcohol
Pierrel was introduced to winecurrent subscribers Nov. ‘09. One winecurrent subscriber buys her Pierrel Rosé by the many cases via consignment. Here’s another of their offerings dishing out classy fine-beaded bubbles at an incredibly low price—the buying power of Vintages at work. This is racy delicious with vanilla, floral and citrus on the nose, a focused stream of tangy flavour and a crisp, refreshing finish. A wonderful aperitif getting conversation and gastric juices flowing. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve’ Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (563197) 14.0% alcohol
It’s value and flavour-packed, pick up a few. Toasty notes with dark spiced berry fruit aromas abound while the flavours fairly burst on the palate with sweet cassis and black raspberry predominant. Beautifully structured with touches of elegance, it’s medium-full bodied, perfectly balanced with a solid underpinning of fine-grained supple tannin plus a lingering fruit-forward aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Vineland Estates ‘Elevation’ Cabernet 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $25.00 (173609) 13.0% alcohol
Their ‘Elevation’ series is becoming a go-to source for value-packed flavour-driven wine. This blend—70% Cabernet Franc, the balance Cabernet Sauvignon—introduces aromas of anise, dark berry fruit and mixed spice. There’s a wash of palate-coating flavour with black currant, spiced black plum and mint-infused cherry to the fore. It’s mid weight, silky smooth in texture with a subtle tannin structure sporting a balanced fruity finish. Pair with grilled T-bone, done rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Cline Cellars ‘Cashmere’ 2007
California $18.95 (161539) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, Fred Cline was one of the original ‘Rhone Rangers’ and the winery remains a touchstone for those grape varieties. This is full of fruit flavour, well balanced and spice-laden with a mouth feel as smooth as, well… cashmere. Aromas of mixed spice and berry fruit lead the way to an energetic surge of sweet and luscious flavour with rich bramble berry, spiced cherry and cassis among them. It’s medium-full bodied, creamy textured and dishes out a lingering finish of spice, tar and tangy red fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $84.95 (943472) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, luscious and (almost) ready to drink, it opens with dark toast and dark berry aromas along with spice and anise. The mouth-coating flavours of bramble berry, cassis and spice have a noticeable tannin structure, partially from 25 months in American oak barrels. It’s medium-full bodied, fully textured and delivers a juicy fruit-forward finish. Drinking comfortably now, after a two-hour decant, and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Alta Visa ‘Premium’ Torrontés 2008
Cordillera de los Andes $13.95 (037127) 13.0% alcohol
Heavenly and highly perfumed, this delivers a basketful of aromas—ginger-infused tropical fruit, rose petal, honey and musky undertones. Light on its feet, it’s a lazy summer day poured into a glass. Zesty grapefruit and lemon-lime flavour persists on the palate and crisp refreshing finish. A well-priced patio/deck/balcony sipping wine. (Vic Harradine)


Las Moras Reserve Chardonnay 2008
San Juan $11.95 (032896) 13.5% alcohol
Pick up a few and enjoy this crowd-pleaser through spring and summer—it earned its final ½ star on the fabulous value. Unique aromas of baked apple, vanilla and exotic spice abound. It’s well balanced, generously textured and nicely flavoured with toast, citrus and tree fruit galore. The finish is lengthy and refreshing with ripe pineapple and citrus mingling with well-integrated soft oaky notes. Sip on its own or pair with soft-shelled crab. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $15.95 (017111) 14.5% alcohol
A perennial winecurrent favourite, this is rich, concentrated and deftly balanced. Lifted aromas of mint and spiced black currant rip from this flavour-packed hedonistic delight with flavours of tangy red cherry and rich black bramble berry coating the palate. It’s full bodied, fully textured sporting a lengthy fruit-forward finish – delicious. Backyard BBQ fare, meat-laden pizza and pasta in tomato-based sauce all work with this wine. (Vic Harradine)


Septima Malbec 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (686113) 14.0% alcohol
This is value-packed and luscious, look for sweet aromas and flavours of chocolate-dipped cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur bathing the palate in waves. It’s mid weight, nicely textured sporting a lingering, fruity well-balanced finish. Pair with strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

La Joya Viognier Reserve 2008
Colchagua Valley $13.95 (168542) 14.0% alcohol
There are perfumed and alluring aromas galore here with exotic spice, floral notes and tropical fruit among them. It’s mid weight, quite generously textured and showers a boat load of flavour over the palate —lemongrass, ripe lemon, key lime pie and sweet luscious nectarine—and crisp, clean refreshing finish. Give it a go with pan-seared fish coated in an Asian-spiced glaze. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Plunkett Fowles ‘Blackwood Ridge’ Shiraz 2008
Central Victoria $19.95 (507277) 15.0% alcohol
Spice-laden and seriously tangy, this is a Rhône-styled food wine seeking grilled red meat slathered in spicy tomato-based sauce. From cool-climate Victoria, aromas of currants, mixed spice and toasty notes segue a rush of racy flavours with pie cherry, cranberry and red currant up front along with undertones of gamey notes and spice that persist through the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)


Evans & Tate Shiraz 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (606905) 14.5% alcohol
A maritime-influenced climate and meticulous wine making practices coalesce in this well-balanced red. Peppery, spice box and toasty notes roll off this mid-weight nicely textured offering while upfront flavours of sweet ripe fruit—black Bing cherry, mulberry and cassis later mingle with moderating zesty pie cherry on the mid-length balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Kaesler ‘Stonehorse’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (006551) 16.0% alcohol
Not for the faint of heart, this full-bodied full-blown hedonistic blend is syrupy, concentrated and hi-octane fuelled—16% alcohol. All that to say, there are many who will absolutely adore it—sometimes referred to as a ‘Parker-point’ wine. Beginning with perfumed aromas of Provençal spice and dark cherry berry fruit, it coats the palate and senses with rich concentrated flavour—black currant, mulberry, raisins, berry fruit and minty notes. The fruit-forward juicy finish is certainly lengthy. (Vic Harradine)


Skillogalee ‘Basket Pressed’ Shiraz 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (165753) 14.5% alcohol
Deftly balanced and incredibly delicious, this is the real deal at a very attractive price. Expressive aromas—minty cherry along with spice and floral nuances—dance from the glass of this mid-weight generously textured beauty. The palate’s treated to a gusher of flavour with succulent mulberry, black Damson plum and mixed spice persisting through the lengthy balanced aftertaste. Each sip and glass is better than the one before. (Vic Harradine)


Yalumba ‘The Scribbler’ 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (165811) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour in this Cab/Shiraz blend. Plum, spice and hints of toasty oak on the nose, it’s rich, luscious and brimming with flavour—cassis, kirsch liqueur and red and dark berry fruit all mingling with sprigs of savoury spice. Marked by precision balance and excellent moderating tang, the aftertaste is complex, and delectable. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs perfectly with thyme-rubbed rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Sileni Estates ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (662882) 12.5% alcohol
Focused and full of tang, you’ll discover grassy herbaceous aromas mingling with lemongrass and nuances of lemony tones. There’s a great spine of citrus acidity running through this light-bodied, delicately textured quaffer with white grapefruit and gooseberry flavour to the fore. The aftertaste lingers crisp and refreshing with oodles of nerve and verve. Pair with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

André Blanck ‘Altenbourg’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $17.95 (168906) 13.0% alcohol
Rich, concentrated and huge on the palate, this over-delivers on price. Perfumed aromas of honeyed fruit, rosewater and spice lead to a delicate wash of lovely flavour with sweet nectarine, white peach and spiced persimmon among them. It’s a summer sipper for certain, with just enough oomph and off-dry characteristics to pair with herbed and spiced chicken and pork. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

Studert-Prüm Riesling Kabinett 2008
Prädikatswein Graacher Himmelreich $17.95 (160853) 8.0% alcohol
This opens with an involved nose of minerality, slate and hints of white spring flowers. It has that special sweet and tang, yin and yang thing that pairs so well with spicy Asian foods—sweet nectarine and yellow peach mingling with pineapple and lemony citrus acidity. Drinking well now on its own, it’s match made in heaven poured alongside green curry chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2005
DOCG Barolo $27.95 (173195) 14.0% alcohol
You won’t find many Barolo at this price and quality; on the nose it’s divine—smoky, toasty and bursting with lilac aromas. There is perceptible acceptable tannin, good moderating acidity and oodles of luscious fruit flavour—dark and juicy berry, tangy red cherry and spiced black plum, along with hints of leather. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and balanced with a glorious lingering of finish of tarry cherry and black licorice. (Vic Harradine)


Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $49.95 (650432) 13.5% alcohol
Flirting with five stars, it’s complex, structured and brimming with flavour. The involved aromas of smoke and oak, dark berry fruit and spice catch your attention. It’s rich and luscious in the mouth—full-bodied, generously textured—with a lovely array of black currant, mocha and anise mingling with nuances of underbrush. The supple fine-grained tannin and moderating acidity provide balance, while the lingering aftertaste provides pure pleasure. Drink now, after a three-hour decant and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Fattoria Le Pupille ‘Elisabetta Geppetti Pelofino’ 2008
IGT Maremma, Toscana $16.95 (164665) 13.5% alcohol
From the region of the Super Tuscans—Ornellaia, Sassicaia—this is rich and concentrated, offering rustic aromas and flavours with exotic spice, dusty dry tannin, toasty oak and dark spicy berry fruit mingling with pie cherry tang. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and dishes out a lingering finish that’s underpinned with tannin and framed with good moderating acidity. In short, it offers an awful lot for the price. Decant for three hours and drink with red meat grilled rare to medium rare, better 2013 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)


Zonin Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $39.95 (086207) 14.5% alcohol
This is well priced and age worthy. Leather, floral and raisined dark berry fruit on the nose, it really delivers on the palate with expressive complex flavour—black currant, jammy black raspberry and hints of bittersweet chocolate—adorned by spice and a firm tannin underpinning. It’s full bodied, generously textured and drinking beautifully 2012 to 2020. Osso bucco with mushroom risotto pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas Valdemar ‘Inspiración Valdemar’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (166512) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed herb and spice, toast and leafy notes segue a tang-laden burst of flavour with zesty pie cherry, spiced black plum and red currant to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a crisp dry finish of tangy red berry fruit and spice. A foodie’s wine, give it a go with pasta in spicy tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Cortijo III Trempranillo/Garnacha 2008
DOCa Rioja $12.95 (166777) 13.5% alcohol
Clean and crisp without a splinter of wood, this will appeal to those looking for purity of fruit in a light-medium bodied red. Aromas of red cherry berry fruit and spice replay on the palate with cranberry tart and red pie cherry flavours along with sprigs of spice. The aftertaste is nicely balanced with a wash of succulent ripe bramble berry. The tannin is soft and supple. (Vic Harradine)


Fortius Reserva 2004
DO Navarra $16.95 (166611) 14.0% alcohol
This is well paced with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Aromas of leather, berry fruit and spice abound while the flavours washing over the palate include blueberry, red currant and sweet plum compote. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and underpinned by a firm tannin structure. The aftertaste is lengthy and balanced portending a lovely pairing with herb-rubbed rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Mas Igneus ‘Barranc Dels Closos’ 2006
DOCa Priorat $19.95 (166660) 15.0% alcohol
Priorato continues its lengthy push into the top rungs of Spanish wine regions with wines like this making impact. Deep and dark-purple hued, this offers a lifted involved nose of spice, leather and black currant with hints of mocha and camphor in the background. There are tannin-gripped flavours of rich and concentrated palate-coating cassis, black licorice and tarry succulent black Bing cherry. It’s full flavoured and full bodied with a generous and lingering finish. Drink 2014 to 2020 alongside a thick slab of grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release June 12, 2010

Kim Crawford ‘Pansy Rosé’ 2009
New Zealand $16.95 (650325) 13.5% alcohol
It’s the 9th vintage for this wine, dedicated to Auckland’s gay community. It’s Merlot based, slightly off-dry and absolutely delectable. Alluring aromas and mouth-watering flavours abound with freshly picked strawberry, spiced red currant and juicy tangy cherry among them. It’s medium weight with a generous texture and a mid-length refreshing aftertaste. A fine drop on its own, it has the structure and balance to pair up well with fish, chicken and deli-platter cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release June 26, 2010

Vinoptima ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2006
Ormond, Gisborne, North Island, New Zealand $53.65 (158840) 13.0 % alcohol
This is one of those rare hand-crafted wines made as a result of the vision and dedication to quality of someone with a goal in mind and knowing no bounds in achieving it. Owner Nick Nobilo’s that person and any serious collector will want this wine. Very much in the style of Grand Cru Alsace, especially Zind-Humbrecht, this is weighty, flavourful and profound. Dazzling aromas bound from the glass with honeyed notes, ginger-infused rose petal and lychee predominant. It’s off-dry on the palate and monumental finish with sweet honeyed pineapple, apricot and ripe succulent nectarine flavour. Should age another 15 years, drinking well 2015 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release July 7, 2010

Bird ‘Old Schoolhouse Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $16.95 14.0% alcohol
This is very well priced and lip-smacking racy with generous ripe fruit flavour—a winning combination. Delivering the usual suspect aromas with citrus and herbaceous notes, it sets itself apart from usual on the palate delivering a crisp and juicy wash of refreshing lime sherbet and tangy-sweet lemon pie filling along with hints of succulent white peach. It’s balanced and refreshing on the mouth-watering finish—pairing perfectly with fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 21, 2010

Babich Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (216) 13.5% alcohol
This over-delivers in value and complexity, it’s balanced and well structured. There’s spice box, earthy tones and mixed dark berry fruit galore on the nose of this tidy offering. There’s purity of fruit throughout—a gorgeous wash of sweet red cherry and black plum—complemented by fine-grained tannin, a generous mouth feel and dry lingering finish. As good as Pinot Noir gets at this price; it’s fabulous. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Fall 2010

Bird ‘big barrel’ Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $25.95 13.5% alcohol
The ‘big barrel’ refers to the older 900 litre barrels, a.k.a. tonneaux, used in fermenting and ageing this wine—imparting less tannin. Alluring aromas abound with earthy tones and red berry fruit predominant. It’s deftly balanced, nicely textured and blossoms with rich fruit on the palate and lingering aftertaste—red currant, red cherry and savoury juicy black plum. There are hints of coffee on the dry refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 16, 2010

Babich ‘Headwaters’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (183160) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a tantalizing nose of passion fruit complemented by hints of key lime; all the fruit was sourced from a 5 hectare vineyard, certified organic. It’s light-bodied with a lovely wash of racy tang—lime sherbet, white grapefruit and lemongrass—persisting throughout the mid palate and zesty, focused, succinct finish. It’s the perfect dance partner to freshly shucked briny oysters with a dash of horseradish and Tabasco. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, New Zealand $17.95 (957407) 13.0% alcohol
This is a 'Vintages Essentials' wine, always available in select stores. Citrus and floral on the nose it delivers a smoothly textured flavour-packed mouthful of passion fruit, lemon-lime tang and ripe pineapple. Medium weight and smoothly textured, it sports a lingering crisp and refreshing aftertaste portending a perfect pairing with pan-seared fish or lightly breaded, skillet-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

fuZion Rosé 2009
Mendoza $7.45 (122424) 13.5% alcohol
This earned its final ½ star on value. There are delicate aromas of candied red berry fruit followed by a nice rush of seriously good tang and zest from strawberry, cranberry and ripe red cherry flavours. It finishes dry and refreshing with a nice bite of racy ruby red grapefruit. Good sipping on its own, it has the pizzazz to be a versatile food wine, pairing with pan-seared salmon, lightly herbed chicken or a deli-food platter. (Vic Harradine)

Australia

Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Coonawarra $17.95 (620070) 13.5% alcohol
Winemaker Wayne Stehbens, the ‘King of Coonawarra’, has sculpted another beauty—unfortunately, there isn’t much around and it’s been de-listed (?)—hurry and pick up a few. Rich and luscious on the nose, this really delivers on the palate with a succulent burst of well-balanced flavour—juicy black ripe cherry, spiced plum and cassis. There’s a glorious nuance of mint-infused dark Bing cherry on the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)


Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Shiraz Cabernet 2008
South Australia $16.45 (285544) 13.5% alcohol
This is rich and perfumed on the nose releasing dark dusty aromas of cherry, mint and mixed dark berry fruit. On the palate there’s a delicious wave of flavour with mouth-coating succulent Bing cherry mingling with ripe mulberry and lip-smacking tart cranberry. It finishes balanced, lingering and delicious. Leaving little to be desired, it’s full value, and then some. (Vic Harradine)

France

Loron & Fils ‘Montavallon Bourgogne Blanc’ Chardonnay 2008
AOC Burgundy $13.95 (167155) 12.5% alcohol
Light-straw coloured and brimming with apple, peach and citrus aromas, this opens with gentle flavours of green apple and racy lemon that persist throughout. It’s light weight and lightly textured—a pleasing deck or patio-sipping wine, for certain—it finishes clean with lip-smacking zest. This will also pair well with steamed mussels or calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Patriarche Mâcon-Villages ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
AOC Mâcon-Villages $14.45 (171322) 12.5% alcohol
Lovely aromas of floral, mineral and delicate hints of lemongrass open this delicious light-on-its-feet, aperitif-styled white. It’s beautifully balanced, crisp and refreshing with green apple, juicy pear and ripe citrus setting the gastric juices flowing. There’s good texture and enough oomph to pair well with all manner of fish and seafood. Well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)


Rigal ‘The Original’ Malbec 2008
Vin de Pays du Lot $11.95 (159178) 12.5% alcohol
Earthy notes, plum and spice box on the nose, this coats the palate with quite a rush of tangy fruit flavour underpinned by ripe soft tannin. It’s mid weight well textured and brimming with chalky flavour with racy cherry, ripe succulent mulberry and espresso roast to the fore. Ready to drink—you’ll search a while for a rustic robust red like this under $12.—it earned its final ½ star on value. It’s an easy choice for summer-time grilled meats—from bangers and burgers to beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Italy

Castello di Gabbiano Chianti 2008
DOCG Chianti $13.95 (78006) 12.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed and persuasive aromas abound with lilac, exotic spice and bramble berry fruit galore. There’s a good rush of tangy red cherry with splashes of mulberry on the palate followed by a mid-length aftertaste of bramble berry and dusty earthy tones. More than expected at this price point—it’s balanced, tangy with good flavours and a bit of structure. Splendid with a variety of dishes—veal marsala, meat-laden pizza and pasta in tomato sauce all fit the bill. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand

Nobilo ‘Monkey Bay’ Pinot Grigio 2009
New Zealand $14.95 (93666) 13.0% alcohol
Floral, slate and mineral aromas dance from the glass of this medium-bodied nicely textured sipper. Delicate flavours of nectarine and citrus along with a fruit salad bowl of tropical fruit bathe the palate. It finishes dry, crisp and refreshing—lovely sipped on its own, the perfect dance partner to lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Nobilo ‘Monkey Bay’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $14.70 (620062) 13.0% alcohol
Restrained and pleasing aromas of herbs and tree fruit waft from this dry, crisp and refreshing Kiwi. It’s bistro-styled and fashioned for easy sipping with sea food and friends. Light-medium weight and delicately textured, it dishes out a mouthful of lip-smacking racy flavour with tangy citrus, green apple and pineapple to the fore. It finishes crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2009
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (288795) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of vanilla and tropical fruit waft from this mid-weight very generously textured gem. Racy and refreshing on the palate, there’s a persistent wash of citrus, green apple and tangy citrus—with good purity of fruit showing on the palate and throughout the lingering crisp aftertaste. Lovely on its own, it pairs well with crab cakes, pan-seared white fish or shell fish, especially steamed green-lipped mussels. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (54353) 13.5% alcohol
Spice and bramble berry on the lifted nose, it’s full of allure and promise. On the palate it’s chockfull of verve and vitality with racy cranberry, red currant and mixed field berry flavours mingling with spice box nuances. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured sporting a lingering well-balanced aftertaste. Give it a go with smoked duck breast over a bed of mango chutney-drizzled arugula greens—delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Rosé 2009
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (122275) 13.5% alcohol
There’s good value here. Aromas of mineral and sweet berry fruit roll easily off the nose of this gorgeously textured and well-structured rosé—one of the best I’ve tasted of the 2009s, it’s pure summer in a glass. There are loads of flavours—mixed red berry fruit, red plum, mineral earthy tones and spice with a lingering juicy lip-smacking finish. Pick up a few for spring and summer. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (293043) 13.1% alcohol
Herbaceous, lemongrass and tropical fruit aromas dominate the perfumed nose while the palate’s treated to a generous splash of tangy, racy flavour. Racy lemon, white peach and zingy white grapefruit flavours persist throughout. The crisp dry finish signals a pairing from the sea—had mine chilled only slightly alongside freshly shucked oysters with a gentle squeeze of fresh lemon in each and it was a memorable treat. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal

Grão Vasco 2006
DOC Dão $8.95 (14977) 13.7% alcohol
Dusty, mineral, spice and berry fruit aromas waft from this tang-laden red blend. Flavours of bright red cherry and raisined dark berry wash over the palate and persist through the mid-length aftertaste along with nuances of spice and over-ripe berry fruit. This is medium bodied and nicely textured, ratcheting up a notch with burgers or gourmet sausage. You can’t beat the price. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa

the beach house Rosé 2009
WO Western Cape $9.95 (164343) 13.5% alcohol
You won’t go wrong sipping this in the summer sun! A blend of Pinotage, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the aromas dance off the glass with fresh-picked field berry and alluring spice nuances. It’s clean and crisp on the palate with a zesty rush of tangy red berry fruit flavour and a crisp, clean refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spain

Julian Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo Rosado’ 2009
DO Navarra $11.95 (165845) 13.0% alcohol
Iridescent pink and brimming with aromas and flavour, this punches well above the price and you wouldn’t go wrong keeping a few bottles around the house given its versatility with food. Spice and mixed field berry fruit on the nose, there’s a lively wash of tangy fruit flavour—cranberry, strawberry and red currant. It’s light-medium bodied, balanced, nicely textured and sports a crisp, clean finish. Good to go now and paired perfectly with deli platter items, goat cheese, fish and seafood—earning it’s final ½ star on value. (Vic Harradine)

New in the Ontario Wineries

Featherstone Estate Chardonnay 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario $21.95 13.5% alcohol
An alluring unique nose of binned apple and frangipane mingling with nuances of light maple syrup holds your attention. There’s an explosion of psychedelic flavours on the palate—sweet apple compote, maple sugar and scents of maple wood and very ripe cantaloupe lurking in the background and riding on moderating acidity. This was fermented and aged 12 months in Canadian oak barrels. It’s mid weight with medium texture and is off-dry. Available only at the winery, you can order a case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario $19.95 13.5% alcohol
Very perfumed aromas roll off the glass—rosewater, minerality and ginger-infused apricot. There are off-dry flavours of spice, tangy citrus, honeyed pit fruit and the de rigueur bite on the finish—the mark of well-made Gewürzt. It dances lightly in the mouth and the fairly short finish—a perfect patio/deck/balcony sipper when served slightly chilled. Available only at the winery, you can order a case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Estate Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario $39.95 13.0% alcohol
Savoury herb and spice, slate and dark berry fruit aromas abound. There’s a persistent stream of flavour with ripe red cherry, red currant and cranberry mingling with nuances of beet root and savoury leaf. It’s mid weight and nicely textured dishing out a surge of tangy flavour on the well-balanced finish with spiced black plum, cherry and savoury notes. Smoked duck breast lightly rubbed with rosemary, sage and thyme pairs well. Available only at the winery, you can order a case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire ‘Albert’s Honour Old Vines’ Foch 2007
VQA Ontario $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Richly purple-hued, aromas of camphor and candied dark fruit roll easily from this French hybrid, Marechal Foch. Light to medium bodied, nicely textured and tangy, there’s a rush of zesty flavour—cranberry tart and spiced red cherry coursing throughout. The finish is dry, crisp and refreshing. Paired perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Malivoire. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $39.95 13.0% alcohol
Rich and expressive on the nose, there are heady aromas of exotic spice, black licorice and tarry cherry galore. The omni-present flavours include black currant, red currant and mixed spice still wrapped in the firm grip of a chalky tannin structure. This has enough moderating acidity, luscious ripe fruit and firm tannin to portend gorgeous sipping opportunities 2013 to 2018. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Malivoire. (Vic Harradine)


Marynissen Estates ‘Unfiltered – Lot 31’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $36.00 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Canada—planted 1978—it’s an opportunity to taste history. The alluring nose delivers tobacco leaf, tar and spice notes. Under the grip of the firm tannin structure there’s a rush of racy flavour with pie cherry and ripe cranberry galore. This has the provenance and balance to reward careful cellaring—drink 2015 to 2020. One dollar per bottle donated to the St. Catherines General Hospital in memory of John Marynissen, the visionary who planted these vines. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)


Marynissen Estates ‘Unfiltered’ Syrah 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.00 13.0% alcohol
An accomplished wine maker—Jeff Hundertmark—great fruit and a fabulous vintage coalesce in this gem. There are complex aromas of black pepper, ripe mulberry and camphor. It’s deftly balanced with a generous mouth feel dishing out a focused and persistent wash of flavour with ripe succulent cherry, sweet black Damson plum and mixed spice box. The aftertaste is memorable—refreshing and full of ripe fruit flavour with just enough tannin underpinning to provide interest and structure. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)

New In Consignment Wines

Schubert Wines ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
Wairarapa, New Zealand $39.95 14.5% alcohol
This is a beauty—hand-picked, de-stemmed, cold soaked and fermented in small batches. What does that mean to you?—that lifted aromas and balanced succulent flavours abound with ripe mulberry, savoury black plum and spiced black cherry to the fore. There’s a whiff of oak from 13 months in French barrels, medium to full body and a very generous texture. The aftertaste is lingering and oozing with tangy delectable red berry fruit. Purchase by the case of 6 for daily office or home delivery via This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic.