May 1, 2010 Vintages Release
This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on California Zinfandel and Italian Primitivo followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue. Vic is back from Australia flying solo in handling this release.Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
• Any Port in a … – two 2007s hit the 4½ and 5 star plateau. A wonderful ‘birth-year’ gift to be opened when the recipient is 21.
• A trio of Ontario Chardonnays – elegant, classy, well structured, inexpensive
• Argentina and Chile – each have a red wine rating 4½ stars for only $15.95
• New in Ontario Wineries – the final section with reviews from 3 premium wineries – Featherstone, Malivoire and Marynissen. Share a case with wine-friends.
The 2009 Bordeaux vintage is ‘vintage of the century’.
As this is the third in less than a decade—2000 and 2005—to be touted as such, you might be wary. But, of course, this time they really mean it! And, by virtually all reports, it actually may be—Decanter, Parker, Wine Spectator et al all seem to agree, this is the BIG one. If you’re thinking of dipping your toe in the en primeur (futures) market, here are three links you really need to click on first:
Zinfandel – Primitivo Feature
If you’re looking for those big jammy fruit bombs that most consider trademark California Zin, you’ll not find many here. In the main, these are fairly well balanced with good acidity, some with a lot, and quite subdued in terms of the usual fruit-forward offerings.
Coppi Peucetico Primitivo 2006
DOC Gioia del Colle $13.95 (724674) 13.5% alcohol
Well priced, the aromas and flavours—espresso roast, mocha, spice and mixed dark berry fruit—are underpinned by moderating acidity and almost imperceptible ripe tannin. It’s medium-bodied and silky smooth with a balanced spicy finish. It ratchets up a notch with food, try pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Zig Zag Zin Zinfandel 2007
Mendocino County $18.95 (039982) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice, dark berry fruit and floral notes segue a rush of flavour with tangy pie cherry, black currant and ripe bramble berry to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with mid weight, nice mouth feel and an aftertaste that’s dry, clean and refreshing. Give this a go with a mess of back ribs laden with BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Truchard Zinfandel 2007
Carneros, Napa Valley $21.95 (054858) 14.2% alcohol
Racy and tangy throughout, there’s an amalgam of red fruit flavour—cranberry, pie cherry and currant—mingling with nuances of spice and camphor. It’s light on its feet with a finish replaying the zestiness and acidity on the palate plus an underpinning of perceptible tannin. Pours and pairs well with a meat dish in a Louisiana-style piquant tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Giordano Collection Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $17.95 (051797) 14.5% alcohol
This is a superb ‘Wine of the Month’ selection—it’s flavour packed and very good value. Sprigs of herb, spice, and dark berry fruit aromas dominate the lifted nose. It lets loose with a torrent of flavours on the palate—black currant jam, zesty pie cherry and spiced black plum compote. It’s well balanced, nicely textured and sports a firm dusty tannin underpinning. It’s good to go now with a spicy dish—meat-laden pizza, gourmet sausage or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2008
Lodi $17.95 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
Espresso roast, bramble berry and spice box aromas roll off this medium-weight value-packed Zin. Oozing flavour, there’s succulent black cherry, mulberry and moderating tangy red currant galore on the palate and well-balanced lengthy finish. There’s ripe fine-grained tannin for structure and an interesting aftertaste of mocha and black raspberry jam. Pick up a few for summer and fall gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
Edmeades Zinfandel 2007
Mendocino County $24.95 (105924) 15.2% alcohol
This is a very flavourful offering at an attractive price-quality ratio. Aromas of tar and coffee give way to a wash of nicely balanced flavours with racy red currant, succulent blood plum and ripe mixed dark berry fruit predominant. It’s mid weight and well textured sporting a medium-length finish that layers on ripe supple tannin, red raspberry and spice. (Vic Harradine)
Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2008
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 15.5% alcohol
The Seghesio family planted vineyards back in 1895 with some of the fruit from those in here. This displays substantial weight and generous texture introduced by alluring aromas of tarry cherry and handfuls of spice. Sweet luscious flavours abound—warm dark bramble berry, mulberry and moderating tangy cranberry. It’s nicely balanced with a zesty aftertaste layering on hints of mocha and seamlessly integrated oak. It’s also worth every penny. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Fortified
El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximenez Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $19.95 (069534)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 13, 2008 @ $22.95) Amazing that a relatively young Solera—the oldest wine in this being only15-years old—can produce such an unctuous dessert wine. Bronze coloured, almost brown, this delivers a creamy mouthful of caramel, peel marmalade, dried figs and raisin flavours. It finishes nutty and lengthy. Have a glass, probably no more than two, with hard aged cheese, cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Dow’s Vintage Port 2007
DOC Douro $75.00 (140152) 20% alcohol
Dark-hued and brooding in the glass, it explodes with aromas of dark raisined fruit, mixed spice and fig. It’s an anomaly with its smooth mellow delivery underpinned with a huge grip of fine-grained ripe tannin. On the palate it’s ripe boysenberry, kirsch liqueur and fig compote while the finish is balanced and lip-smacking good. Possible to sip now with dark chocolate or hard aged cheese; it will reward careful cellaring, drinking well 2020 to 2040. (Vic Harradine)
Warre’s Vintage Port 2007
DOC Douro $79.00 (140251) 20% alcohol
The lifted nose from the opaque liquid shows spice, tar and sweet dark berry fruit. The complex flavours are super sweet with cassis, succulent bramble berry and boysenberry mingling with savoury spice. It’s full bodied generously textured and structured by firm tannin and framed by good moderating acidity. This long-lived gem should offer superb drinking 2025 to 2040. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut
New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Closson Chase Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.9% alcohol
Alluring aromas of brioche and ripe tree fruit—apple compote, peach and pear—waft from this deftly balanced elegant Chardonnay. Gorgeous flavours of apple butter on toast mingling with ripe pineapple and persimmon persist throughout. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a mouth-watering lingering finish. This is a complex outstanding wine from one of Canada’s best wine makers, Deborah Paskus. Don’t pass this up. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay 2006
VQA Ontario $15.95 (173203) 12.7% alcohol
This is flavour and value-packed—worth picking up a few for summer sipping or pairing with fresh summer green salad laden with sliced grilled chicken. Vanilla and toast on the nose, this treats the palate to a wave of flavour with apple compote, ripe pear and nuances of coconut. It’s mid weight, medium textured with a lengthy lip-smacking finish that layers on crisp and refreshing citrus tang. This winery is one of the stars of the County with wine maker Dan Sullivan largely responsible. (Vic Harradine)
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (164459) 12.5% alcohol
What a beauty—it’s balanced, well structured with a glorious creamy mouth feel. There’s toast, vanilla and nutty nuances on the nose misleading one to think there’s a good deal of oak ageing in play. However, not a splinter of wood here! It’s full of flavour with a wash of apple compote, sweet yellow peach and ripe pear to the fore on the palate. There’s good weight, a spine of moderating citrus and a crisp refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Lake & Mendocino Counties $17.95 (086249) 13.1% alcohol
Crisp, refreshing and tang-laden, this is looking for a massive tray of briny freshly-shucked Pacific kusshi oysters. Look for aromas and flavours of lemongrass, white grapefruit and savoury spice on the palate with some nice fruit flavours—lemon pie filling and lime sherbet—on the dry refreshing finish. It’s light bodied, lightly textured and fashioned with sustainable agriculture practices and organically grown fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Frog’s Leap Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $37.95 (713552) 13.6% alcohol
While lifted aromas of toast, floral notes, vanilla and tropical fruit abound, it’s surprisingly light bodied and lightly textured. The delicate flavours include zesty citrus, Granny Smith apple and pineapple. The dry finish is crisp and refreshing inviting pan-seared scallops over greens under a generous squirt of freshly squeezed lemon as a dance partner. (Vic Harradine)
La Crema Chardonnay 2007
Monterey $29.95 (158683) 13.9% alcohol
There are loads of expressive aromas with smoky, toasty oak, vanilla and mineral nuances among them. This is mid weight with a lovely full mouth feel and juicy fruit flavours on the palate—green apple, tangy citrus with sweet pineapple lurking in the background. It finishes dry, crisp and very refreshing. It pours well with grilled monk fish dipped in drawn lemon-infused butter. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Sanctuary ‘Usibelli Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Rutherford, Napa Valley $34.95 (095372) 14.1% alcohol
Rich, luscious and extremely well crafted, look for lifted aromas of toasty oak, dark berry and mixed spice. It’s medium weight and generously textured displaying a lovely array of succulent flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur, boysenberry and spiced black Damson plum. The well-balanced aftertaste delivers more of the same complemented by fully resolved approachable tannin. (Vic Harradine)
White Oak Syrah 2004
Napa Valley $17.95 (161315) 14.2% alcohol
Mixed spice and bramble berry aromas on the nose, this settles into a dry tangy offering with red currant, ripe cranberry and Montmorency cherry flavours galore. It’s nicely textured with a lingering lip-smacking aftertaste revealing black currant, spice and a perceptible tannin structure. Better with food—pizza, gourmet sausage or burgers all work well. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Henry Lagarde Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (055186) 14.0% alcohol
Argentina continues to be a fertile hunting ground for value-driven reds; the price-quality balance tips well in your favour here, toss a few in the cart. Rich dark spiced fruit aromas precede a gorgeous splash of flavour—juicy black Bing cherry, black plum and spiced black currant. It’s mid weight, creamy textured and delivers a balanced lingering finish with ripe fine-grained tannin for structure and interest. (Vic Harradine)
Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Shiraz 2006
San Juan $15.95 (081125) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of coffee, toast and spiced berry fruit waft from this mid-weight nicely textured red. It’s an easy-drinking Shiraz dishing up a straightforward juicy sweet mouthful of dark spicy berry fruit right from the get-go and through the lingering aftertaste. There’s also a good solid underpinning of ripe tannin. This pairs well with spicy sausage or pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Renacer ‘Punto Final’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (146373) 14.0% alcohol
Well paced and well priced, this offers a delicious mouthful of well-balanced, fruit-forward wine. Dark fruit, dark spice cake and anise aromas segue luscious palate-coating flavours of bramble berry, mulberry and espresso roast mingling with spiced black curant. It’s medium weight, nicely textured sporting a wonderful moderating finish of lip-smacking red cherry and zesty red currant. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Cousiño-Macul ‘Antiguas Reservas’ Merlot 2008
Maipo Valley $15.95 (730382) 14.0% alcohol
If you hunt in $16 territory, be certain to bag this one. The fully involved nose offers up mocha, spice, tar and cherry aromas. This is dripping with palate-coating flavour—deep dark berry fruit, cassis and dark chocolate-dipped cherries mingling with moderating acidity and ripe tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a lengthy well-balanced finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Vina Tarapacá ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Maipo Valley $15.95 (018721) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, concentrated and good bang for the buck, this delivers a hedonistic mouthful of juicy succulent flavour with kirsch liqueur, black bramble berry and mocha to the fore. This is almost Zin-like with its juicy succulent sweet flavours mingling with savoury spice and dark chocolate. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting a fruit-forward aftertaste—a crowd pleaser, for certain. (Vic Harradine)
Viu Manent Reserva Carmenère 2008
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (045161) 14.5% alcohol
Savoury herb and spice on the perfumed nose, this is deftly balanced and generously textured. On the palate there’s dark berry fruit—black currant, raspberry and blueberry—complemented by moderating acidity and a lengthy aftertaste that layers on even more sprigs of savoury. Delicious sipped on its own, it pairs well with herb-rubbed grilled red meat or barbecued pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
d’Arenberg ‘The Stump Jump’ White 2008
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $14.95 (922203) 13.0% alcohol
This melting pot blend—Riesling , Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne—coalesces into a crisp, refreshing value-packed gem. Floral, mineral notes and red licorice on the nose, the palate’s showered with an array of flavours with lemon drop cocktail, green apple and white peach to the fore. It finishes lengthy, dry and zesty. Give it a go with pan-seared and garlic prawns or steamed mussels in white wine—this wine—sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Bremerton ‘Selkirk’ Shiraz 2007
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $19.95 (090266) 14.5% alcohol
Langhorne Creek was first planted in 1860; it’s now an area packed with immense vineyards and known for producing soft, fruity, approachable reds. This red is rich and concentrated with aromas and flavours of dark berry fruit, spice box and anise. It’s mid weight and nicely textured. The complex flavours of spiced black plum, chocolate-dipped cherry and ripe mulberry are ably supported by ripe and supple tannin throughout the lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Knappstein ‘Enterprise Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Clare Valley, Australia $29.95 (932160) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $29.95) Inky-coloured and very aromatic, this opens with a complex nose of dark berry fruit, chocolate and spice. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and delivers a balanced savoury mouthful of cassis, black plum and tangy Bing cherry mingling with polished tannin and lip-smacking acidity—cool-climate Clare throughout. A lovely wine to sip on its own now and on to 2015, it pairs well with herb-rubbed oven-roasted rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Pikes ‘Eastside’ Shiraz 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $22.95 (077891) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of toast and dark berry fruit abound. It’s very approachable, uncomplicated and straightforward with simple flavours of dark berry fruit and spice along with some nice toasty notes. It’s medium weight with ripe tannin and a smooth rich texture leading to a lengthy fruity aftertaste. Lovely sipped on its own, this pairs well with burgers or grilled medallions of pork. (Vic Harradine)
Rosemount ‘Traditional Show Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $34.95 (484097) 14.5% alcohol
This Cabernet-based beauty exudes charm and class with good ageing potential. Aromas of eucalyptus, toasty oak and spice segue a rich luscious wave of flavour—succulent boysenberry, black currant and hordes of black licorice and tar. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and well balanced dishing out a full measure of Bing cherry and spice underpinned by firm tannin on the mid-length aftertaste. Is it worth the money? You bet! (Vic Harradine)
Two Hands ‘Gnarly Dudes’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (660043) 15.0% alcohol
The ‘Two Hands’ are Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz, forming a partnership in 1999 to source the best Shiraz fruit in Australia, while the ‘Gnarly Dudes’ are the mature gnarly vines from the Barossa sub regions of Marananga, Greenock and Light Pass that produced the fruit for this wine. Almost opaque, the dark liquid portends the luscious rich and concentrated aromas and flavours—mixed spice, juicy dark cherry, mulberry and gamey notes galore. It’s mid weight, medium textured and full of tang and hits of racy zest. It’s nice on its own, better alongside food; give it a go with chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (164228) 13.5% alcohol
Grassy and herbaceous with passion fruit aromas on the nose, this is big full-bore, no-holds-barred, quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s mid weight, generously textured with pungent flavours of lemongrass, citrus and gooseberry galore. It’s focused and sports a nice stream of acidity through the savoury citrus tang-laden dry finish. Pair and pour with prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Kapuka Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, New Zealand $14.95 (163576) 12.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $14.95) This is fashioned in an easy-drinking bistro-style bursting with focused flavour and value—it’s certainly worth your attention. Aromas and flavours of zesty lime, savoury herbs, crisp green apple and hints of honeydew melon wash in waves over the palate finishing up crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Sip on its own as an aperitif or pour alongside Greek salad, a deli plate or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)
Momo Pinot Gris 2008
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (163535) 14.0% alcohol
This opens with complex and expressive aromas of herbs, savoury spice and lemon twist followed by an explosion of flavour—lemon sherbet, ripe pineapple, sugared white grapefruit and yellow plum. It’s medium bodied with a creamy mouth feel and a lengthy luxurious finish that layers on spice and fruit salad flavour. (Vic Harradine)
Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (694752) 13.0% alcohol
The nose may be delicate with its floral, mineral and citrus nuances, but the mouth-coating flavours surge on to the palate—racy gooseberry, lemon zest and white grapefruit tang. This ‘Wine of the Month’ offers up mid weight, nice texture and a focused stream of citrussy zing throughout the lingering finish. Briny oysters, pan-seared scallops or lemon chicken provide great food pairings. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Craggy Range ‘Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Te Kahu’ 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $29.95 (163584) 13.5% alcohol
From a premium NZ winery and the country’s top region for Bordeaux blend reds, this displays purity of fruit, a focused stream of tang and firm structure. Spice box, camphor and savoury dark berry fruit aromas abound on the nose while the palate’s treated to a charming array of dark spicy flavours—espresso roast, cassis, dark succulent cherry and nuances of cedar—along with a rustic texture and perceptible dusty tannin. It’s full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a lingering lip-smacking finish of tang-laden pie cherry. Pour now after a two-hour decant or pop the cork 2014 to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Domaine de la Poultière ‘Sec Tuffo’ Vouvray 2008
AOC Vouvray $16.95 (172403) 13.0% alcohol
A region that’s oft-overlooked when casting for quality dry white wine …pity. This really shines on the palate with its generous creamy mouth feel and glorious flavour—zesty citrus, juicy white peach and tangy green apple. It’s medium weight and dishes out a focused lingering finish of crisp refreshing flavour. It sips beautifully on its own and matches up well with shell fish. (Vic Harradine)
E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2008
AOC Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (290296) 13.5% alcohol
A collage of grapes goes into this Rhône Valley blend while an array of aromas and flavours come out—spice, floral, lemongrass aromas followed by honeyed citrus, red grapefruit and assorted tree fruit—apple, pear and Mirabelle plum flavours. This is a pleasant summer quaffer with the oomph to pour well with lightly herbed and roasted chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Chercy-Desqueyroux 2005
AOC Graves $23.95 (125518) 12.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 1, 2009 @ $23.95) Mixed spice and berry fruit on the nose, this delivers a solid core of flavour with sour cherry, black currant and mixed spice among them. It’s medium in weight and texture. It finishes with drying tannin and a layering of spiced plum compote and savoury herb. Drink 2012 to 2018 after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside grilled spiced pork chops. (Vic Harradine)
Château Ducla 2006
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $14.95 (162461) 13.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent September 26, 2009 @ $14.95) Smoky, oaky, earthy and toasty aromas rip from the glass of this value-packed red. It dishes out a huge mouthful of ripe juicy fruit flavour with blueberry, black currant and black raspberry to the fore. It’s nicely balanced, seamlessly integrates the oak ageing and delivers a medium-length finish. Almost impossible to find better Bordeaux at this price earning its final half star on value. (Vic Harradine)
Fontcraine Morgon 2007
AOC Morgon, Beaujolais $17.95 (158923) 13.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $17.95) This is emphatically not your everyday wine from Beaujolais, Morgon is from one of the special Cru areas, known for its structure and ability to age. It’s a semi-opaque crimson red and displays both red fruit aromas and savoury notes. Dry and medium bodied, it has nuances of earth, spice and licorice with underlying red berries. Fresh acidity and moderate tannin complement the fruit, creating an approachable, nicely structured red. The mid-length finish is fruity and satisfying. (Susan Desjardins)
Château de Nages ‘JT’ Costières de Nîmes 2006
AOC Costières de Nîmes $21.95 (736876) 15.0% alcohol
Much larger-than-life wine maker Michel Glassier pushes the envelope in many ways as this blockbuster red blend bears testament. Primarily Grenache, rich, dense and powerful come to mind; look for aromas of raisined black fruit, espresso roast and handfuls of savoury herbs. Juicy thick flavours coat the palate in waves with black cherries dipped in dark bittersweet chocolate, tangy boysenberry and tarry black licorice. You could cellar and drink 2014 to 2020 or decant two hours and drink now to 2020 with cuisine as rich as the wine—osso bucco with mushroom risotto or grilled slabs of back ribs slathered with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Montmartel Visan 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (130062) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 29, 2009 @ $16.95) Aromas of black pepper and black raspberry abound on the nose while tangy flavours of pie cherry, racy ripe cranberry and cassis persist throughout. It’s medium in texture and weight with a gorgeous finish that layers on dollops of black currant and blueberry along with firm tannin. Tuck this away for a couple of years or aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside a medium-rare strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Laurus Gigondas 2006
AOC Gigondas $24.95 (163113) 14.5% alcohol
This 60% Grenache-based blend also factors in Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault with the Syrah receiving 14 months oak barrel ageing. Rich and racy, expect aromas and flavours of dark black currant, mocha, tar and black licorice mingling with spice and notes of toast. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and well balanced with imperceptible tannin and a lingering dry and zesty finish. Pour with something rich like Italian sausage stew or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
Perrin & Fils Tavel Rosé 2009
AOC Tavel $19.95 (680801) 14.0% alcohol
Darkly-hued in the glass and looking like it has oomph, this doesn’t disappoint in the mouth. Aromas of guarrigue and dark berry fruit drift off this rich and concentrated gem. Refreshing sprightly flavours of red currant, red cherry and spiced strawberry abound on the palate underpinned by silky soft tannin and zesty acidity. A lovely drop on its own, it pours well alongside deli-platter items or paella. (Vic Harradine)
Germany: White Wine
Geil Riseling Kabinett 2008
Prãdikatswein Rheinhessen $15.95 (994764) 9.0% alcohol
This has a sexy nose with tropical fruit, spice, slate and floral notes, all sent to beguile. It also has that rich sweet and tang flavour that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine—irresistible. On the palate there’s good purity of fruit with green apple, honeyed ripe pear and yellow plum to the fore. Mid weight and creamy textured it finishes lengthy and mouth watering crisp. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Castellani Chianti Riserva 2005
DOCG Chianti $14.95 (970707) 12.5% alcohol
This is a pleasant oddity given that it’s DOCG—the highest classification—from a good vintage and ‘Riserva’, and all for under $15.. Look for spice and red cherry fruit delivered on a bed of zesty tang. It’s mid weight and lightly textured with a dry fruity finish. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Burmester Vinho Tinto 2007
DOC Douro $14.95 (114413) 13.5% alcohol
Burmester is a medium-sized well-respected Port producer who also make fine table wine. Vinified from three premium Port grapes, this is rich dark and tangy. Lip-smacking flavours—pie cherry, red currant and hints of mineral and chocolate—glide along on the very generous texture and firm tannin underpinning. This is medium-full bodied with a dry fruity finish—ripe cherry and spice—and short term ageing potential. (Vic Harradine)
Montinho ‘São Miguel’ 2008
Vinho Regional Alentejano $12.95 (114405) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour; consider a multiple purchase. Smoky and toasty on the nose this coats the palate with a wash of warm sweet luscious fruit—bramble berry, spiced black plum and black currant. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a mid-length, balanced aftertaste. It’s easy drinking on its own with the oomph to pour well alongside grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Burgo Viejo Reserva 2001
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (168823) 13.5% alcohol
Holding its age well, this still delivers an involved nose and good sweet fruit throughout. Leather, berry fruit, mixed spice and hints of bacon on the nose, this is mid weight, lightly textured with a dry finish. There’s good flavour on the palate and aftertaste with dried fruit, sweet berry and spice. Drink over the next couple of years with paella or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Mustiguillo Mestizaje 2007
Vino de la Tierra el Terrerazo $16.95 (168302) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, floral notes and handfuls of savoury herbs fill the air from this generously textured red blend. It’s medium bodied and delivers a cornucopia of flavour—spiced black plum, mint-infused berry fruit and more savoury notes. It finishes dry and balanced with moderating acidity, ripe tannin and good fruit flavour. Made better with a two-hour decant and poured with lamb chops rubbed with rosemary grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in Winecurrent
Vintages Release: TBA, 2010
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Toast, spice and delicate aromas of pit fruit segue a rich and luscious wash of flavour with lip-smacking lemon sorbet, ripe apple compote and nuances of pineapple predominant. It’s mid weight and nicely textured. Seamlessly integrated oak, deft balance and a lingering luscious finish mark this as well made, well paced and well… delicious. Poured and paired perfectly with roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: May 15, 2010
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Off-Dry Riesling 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench $15.95 11.5% alcohol
This is a steal, punching well above the price. Green apple and mineral-laden on the nose, this delivers a glorious wash of tang and flavour. Beginning with lemony citrus giving way to ripe pineapple and peach on the mid-palate, it finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good with a crisp refreshing ginger snap and lemon biscuit aftertaste. Pour on its own for a delightful experience or pair with spicy Asian food. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: May 29, 2010
Finca El Origin ‘El Origin Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Valle De Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (65425) 14.8%
Darkly hued violet, it exudes richly perfumed aromas of black licorice, camphor, dark berry fruit and a faint whiff of toasty oak. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and well balanced with ripe and friendly tannin. There’s oodles of fruit with mulberry, red pie cherry and spiced black plum predominant finishing fruit-driven and tangy with a predilection for meat-laden pizza or sauced barbequed back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: June 26, 2010
Liberty School Chardonnay 2007
Central Coast, California $17.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty notes, vanilla and alluring tropical fruit aromas abound on the nose of this mid weight and very generously textured beauty. Ripe citrus, persimmon and green apple flavours persist throughout while the moderating acidity provides a clean and lip-smacking finish. Seamlessly integrated oak, luscious fruit and deft balance coalesce in this value-packed offering. (Vic Harradine)
Seghesio Family Vineyards ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2007
Sonoma County, California $39.95 (56879) 15.6% alcohol
Parcels of this were sourced from vines +100-years-old. Attractive aromas of rich dark berry fruit, floral notes and camphor segue luscious palate-coating flavours of kirsch liqueur, black currant and spiced black Damson plum. Smooth and mellow on the palate, this is marked by deft balance, firm tannin structure and a lengthy involved finish of spice, bramble berry and pie cherry. Good to go now and safely cellared until 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 10.0% alcohol
Delicate mineral, floral and lemon-lime aromas waft from this mid weight, generously textured off-dry beauty. With a glorious fusion of sweet and tangy flavour on the palate—sweet ripe tropical fruit and bracing citrus—it delivers that sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. The finish lingers 30 seconds or more, well balanced and delectable. It’s a lovely wine delivering very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: July 10, 2010
Treanna Red 2007
Central Coast, California $39.95 (11221) 15.5% alcohol
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, this is a gorgeous wine. Expressive and involved aromas of toasty oak, dark berry fruit, mint and licorice give way to a burst of flavour with spicy black currant and succulent Bing cherry predominant. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy smooth mouth feel and firm tannin structure. The memorable finish is lengthy, balanced and full of luscious fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: July 24, 2010
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $31.95 (130989) 12.5% alcohol
Earthy, spicy with notes of minerality on the nose, it delivers a well balanced—fine-grained tannin, good acidity and fresh fruit flavour—and lip-smacking rendition of quality Pinot Noir from a challenging year. Tangy red currant, cranberry and mixed berry fruit flavours mingle with hints of beet root and spiced black plum. It’s light-medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a lingering focused dry finish. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 7, 2010
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol
Lightly coloured, the aromas are a lovely amalgam of spice and earthy tones. The initial attack on the palate is tangy—red currant and cranberry—blossoming on the palate and lengthy finish with ripe red cherry, juicy strawberry and zesty spice. It’s mid weight, lightly textured with supple tannin and a crisp clean finish. This ratchets up a notch or two when sipped with food; spaghetti Bolognese, pizza and Swiss steak all fit the bill. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 18, 2010
Seghesio Family Vineyards ‘Home Ranch’ Zinfandel 2008
Alexander Valley $45.95 (70391) 15.5% alcohol
This is a ripper; lifted aromas of mixed spice, black pepper, dark field berry and notes of mineral peel off the nose of this complex and beautifully structured red. Waves of flavour wash over the palate with juicy boysenberry, succulent black cherry and tangy black raspberry predominant—this vineyard was planted in 1895. It’s full bodied dense and concentrated with excellent texture and a lingering balanced lip-smacking aftertaste layering on ripe supple tannin, moderating acidity and sprigs of spice mingling with dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: Fall, 2010
Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (89011) 12.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of gooseberry, citrus and grassy notes introduce this mid-weight creamy-textured mouth-watering white. It’s full of nerve and verve delivering a focused and delightful splash of tangy flavour right through the lip-smacking finish—lime sorbet and ripe juicy grapefruit mingling with lovely herbaceous notes. It has just the right measure of acidity to sip well on its own and to pair with all manner of seafood—grilled prawns, pan-seared fish, calamari rings. From a limited production of 250 cases, pick up a few while you can. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Beringer ‘Knights Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Knights Valley, California $34.95 (352583) 14.3% alcohol
This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. Rich, dark and delectable, this is quintessential quality California Cab. There are aromas and flavours of cassis, dark chocolate, mint and black currant galore. It’s full bodied, generously textured sporting a lengthy complex finish of Bing cherry, cassis, spice and firm dusty tannin. Drink now after a two-hour decant or be rewarded for careful cellaring 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Australia
Deakin Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Victoria $9.95 (560839) 11.0% alcohol
Ripe fruit aromas—gooseberry and melon—segue a rich and lip-smacking mouthful of tangy flavour with lemongrass, white grapefruit and white peach to the fore. This is exactly what you need for spring and summertime sipping or to pour with pan-seared fish and seafood. Good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)
Deakin Estate Shiraz 2008
Victoria $12.95 (560821) 13.5% alcohol
The quality price balance tips well in your favour; it’s value-packed deserving attention. Complex and involved aromas of camphor, black berry and spiced Damson plum segue a well-paced palate-coating wash of flavour with ripe mulberry, mocha and succulent cherry to the fore. It’s smooth and mellow, mid weight with a lovely fruity and balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
South Australia $16.95 (45625) 13.5% alcohol
Very expressive aromas of black currant, eucalyptus and mixed spice segue rich and luscious flavours of tangy cherry and blood plum. This is well balanced, mid weight and nicely textured sporting a lingering aftertaste with added hints of mulberry and mint. Lovely sipped on its own, it’s perfectly paired with grilled strip loin or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Chardonnay 2007
South Australia $14.95 (321943) 13.5% alcohol
Koonunga Hill is known for producing value-for-money quality wine. Floral, apple, whiffs of toasty oak and nuances of citrus aromas precede a well-balanced wash of pleasing pit fruit and ripe yellow peach flavour extending through the lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a pleasing refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
California
Trinchero Family Estates ‘Sea Glass’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Santa Barbara County $13.95 13.7% alcohol
Enticing aromas of tropical fruit and hints of grassy savoury spice roll easily from this value-packed refreshing white wine. It delivers the whole package—delectable flavours of lime sherbet and tropical fruit, excellent balance via moderating acidity and a refreshing lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and very well priced—could easily be your ‘catch of the day’. Watch for it; it’s slated to be in stores July 2010. (Vic Harradine)
Italy
Gabbiano Pinot Grigio 2008
IGT Delle Venezie $12.95 (77990) 12.5% alcohol
Pretty aromas of ripe pear and apple—there’s a splash of Chardonnay in this—waft from this mid-weight nicely textured spring and summer sipper. Look for flavours of binned apple and citrus ending with a nice bite on the clean finish. Good to go on its own sipped on the patio/deck/balcony, it also pours well with crab cakes or pan-seared prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal
Quinta de Azevedo ‘Gazela’ Vinho Verde Non-Vintage
DOC Vinho Verde $8.95 (141432) 9.0% alcohol
Frizzanté—a lovely tingle from small bubbles—and lightly hued, this delivers aromas of floral, apple with mineral undertones. The crisp and refreshing flavours—ripe lemon and key lime pie—are carried along on a bed of delightful tingly spritz and a solid underpinning of wonderful acidity. Dancing lightly, it finishes clean and zippy, just the dance partner with lightly spiced appetizers, white meat or fish. (Vic Harradine)
Vinha do Monte Alentejano 2007
Vinho Regional Alentejano $9.95 (621813) 14% alcohol
What a great nose; it’s alive with earthy, tarry, licorice and spice aromas. Rustic and ready to drink, complex flavours abound with sweet warm, minty dark cherry, ripe cranberry and handfuls of spice. It’s mid weight with an earthy chalky mouth feel and a lovely mouth-watering finish. Blended from local red grape varieties, close your eyes while sipping and you’re in Portugal. This is full value and ratchets up a notch or two with food, especially chouriço, a Portuguese smoky spicy sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Sogrape ‘Mateus’ Rosé Non-Vintage
Portugal $7.95 (166) 11% alcohol
To everyone over 50, this might be more recognizable with a candle in the opening of the uniquely shaped bottle. The Mateus bottle and label haven’t changed much, the wine’s less sweet and it still tastes great at a fabulous price; what’s not to like? It’s spritzy with pleasant flavours of red currant and mixed dark berry fruit. If you need a retro fix or a fun value-driven summer sipper, look no further. Bonus, the bottle still doubles as a candle holder. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 375 mL 11.5% alcohol
The quality-price ratio is tipped crazily in your favour. Coloured a brilliant pink-hued copper, this delivers a lip-smacking mouthful of racy spicy flavour. Tangy spiced pie cherry and red raspberry mingle with sweet cherry clafoutie on the palate and lingering luxurious finish. The natural sweetness has been deftly balanced with the crisp and refreshing flavours. For a match made in heaven, serve chilled alongside dark chocolate desserts like molten chocolate cake. Available only at the winery and only 200 cases made—order a case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Icewine’ Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 200 mL 11.5% alcohol
Glorious aromas of ginger-infused musk melon, spice and apricot abound. Palate-coating flavours of honeyed apple compote and spice mingle with a quintessential Gewürzt bite on the lingering delectable finish. This is unctuous, delicious and just the right size for an after-dinner treat for four, serve chilled either as dessert or alongside a fruit flan. You could also start the meal with this and foie gras. Available only at the winery, you can order a case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)
Malivoire Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Subtle on the nose, there are wispy aromas of vanilla, toast and pit fruit. A delightful mélange of flavour washes over the palate with crisp Granny Smith apple, and ripe Bosc pear to the fore. It’s medium bodied with a nice mouth feel and a perfectly balanced mid-length aftertaste that’s clean, crisp and refreshing. This is well paced, well priced and the perfect dance partner with roast chicken and grilled root veggies. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Malivoire. (Vic Harradine)
Malivoire ‘Musqué Spritz’ 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 9.0% alcohol
Exotic fanciful aromas of ginger-laden rose petal and delicate white peach float from this delightful aperitif-styled Chardonnay Musqué. Flavours of tangy lemon sherbet and key lime pie are carried along on the spritz—tiny bubbles—and creamy mouth feel of this summer-in-a-glass gem. The sweet and tang finish lingers with mouth-watering satisfaction. Serve chilled to friends with freshly picked, lightly sugared strawberries—breakfast, lunch or dinner. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Malivoire. (Vic Harradine)
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, delicate aromas of citrus, floral notes and nuances of mineral segue racy red currant, ripe sweet pineapple and grapefruit tang on the palate and lingering well-balanced finish. This is light bodied and nicely textured with a solid stream of zingy acidity throughout setting it up as a clean crisp sipper or lovely match with lighter fare like mussels steamed in dry white wine. Each sip, each glass, is better than the previous. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Malivoire. (Vic Harradine)
Marynissen Estates Cabernet Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.80 13.5% alcohol
This is a Gold medal winner and served in the Ontario Legislative Assembly as their red ‘house wine’. Earthy with high notes of cassis and spice on the nose, it opens up on the palate with a lovely spray of juicy red fruit—cherry, currant and strawberry. It’s mid weight, nicely textured providing good value and a gorgeous flavour-packed, dry balanced finish. There’s a solid underpinning of ripe tannin and a lip-smacking surge of pie cherry on the aftertaste. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Marynissen Estates ‘Solstice’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.80 13.0% alcohol
This interesting blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is approachable now and punches well above the price. The alluring aromas of rich dark berry fruit, licorice and spice segue flavours of red berry fruit, spiced black plum and savoury notes. They’re carried along on a lovely bed of generous texture framed by good moderating acidity and a firm tannin underpinning. Mid weight and nicely textured, the lingering finish delivers a deftly balanced surge of cranberry and pie cherry. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Marynissen Estates ‘Bottoms Up’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.80 14.0% alcohol
This rich and complex unplanned gem (broken press) was developed using lees sediment from 7 red varietals and extracting wine in the traditional method, allowing 5 months gravity to do the work, rather than pressing. A further 8 months in new American oak and voila! Aromas of dark berry, leather and lilac introduce a palate-coating wash of flavour with sweet cassis, raisin, mocha and ripe cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with a warm lengthy finish sporting good balance and perceptible tannin. Decant two hours or cellar and drink until 2017. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery directly from Marynissen Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic