November 21, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Bright Stars—premium wines from around the globe. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.Susan Desjardins joins winecurrent as a guest wine reviewer. You’ll find her reviews after the Main Release. She has a strong background in tasting, wine travel and she’s a consummate foodie! Read more here...
Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- It’s that time of year – the wines are premium with some heart-stopping prices. However, with those reviewed here, the quality pretty much kept pace.
- Australia Red – there are quite a number in this section offering good value for quality wine
- And now for something completely different – in a rut with your wine selections? Give these grapes a try—Aligoté, Mencia, Viognier, Marsanne/Roussanne blend—they’re all here!
Private Order—this is a seldom-used channel for sourcing fabulous wine not available except by traveling the world to various wineries. The agent sources these wines via the LCBO, but you won’t find them on store shelves. It’s like having access to wine that your friends only read about. Go to the final section in the newsletter to read about and purchase wines from the iconic François Villard of the Rhône Valley and the hot new Champagne house that the U.K is buzzing about. You wait a few weeks, but these wines are special.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
Bright Stars
Champagne
Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $92.95 (508614) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Meunier, it showcases an already well-knit and generously textured mouthful of flavour and raciness with spice-infused tropical fruit and a persistent stream of lemony zest. The aromas of mineral, floral nuances and marmalade replay on the crisp refreshing finish. It’s drinking well now and will continue to do so well into 2020. This is a Vintages Essentials product available while supplies last in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Louis Roederer Premier Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $67.95 (268771) 12.0% alcohol
Well structured and focused, the blend is 56% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier. Aromas of baking brioche, nuttiness and red field berry waft from the glass while the fine bead and frothy mousse deliver fruit-filled flavours of spice-infused fruit peel and a generous shower of lemon zest. This dances lightly through the mouth-watering crisp finish. The reserve wine was stored in well-aged oak casks for 2 - 6 years. Lovely as a welcoming wine, it pairs perfectly with sea food, as well. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $99.95 (158550) 12.0% alcohol
Made from 100% Pinot Noir this was vinified saignée—not red wine mixed with white—capturing tantalizing spice, red licorice and berry fruit aromas and an alluring salmon-pink colour. It attacks the palate with mid weight, generous textures and a groundswell of flavour with black currant, strawberry and spiced Damson plum to the fore. This is lovely sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with pan-seared salmon or a festive bird. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $269.95 (038562)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is forward, full bodied and from, arguably, the planet’s premium producer of bubbly. It’s also Krug’s flagship ageworthy cuvée. Typically, Krug Grande Cuvée is blended from as many as 50 wines from the three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and from six to ten different vintages. Baking brioche and clove-infused lemon aromas segue bold and beautiful flavours—spiced green apple, citrus and yellow peach—proffered on a generously textured bed of fine pinpoint effervescence that’s persistent and refreshing through the robust and lengthy finish. This has the structure and character to pair well with a festive bird—this year or any from now to 2012. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $65.00 (034561) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, mineral and nutty adornments segue an intense wash of pure fruit flavour—ripe apple, Bosc pear and spiced yellow plum. It’s deftly balanced with mid weight and a generous mouth feel. The lengthy luxurious finish layers on nuances of vanilla, citrus and spice box. Poured well with roast chicken or veal, it also sips beautifully on its own. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $70.00 (034553) 14.0% alcohol
Subtle aromas of berry fruit and exotic spice open this deftly balanced well-structured Pinot. The palate’s treated to a gusher of persistent flavour with sweet dark berry fruit, strawberry and racy cranberry predominant. It’s mid weight and sports a nicely balanced fruity finish that’s also infused with hints of dark chocolate and drying tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours and pair with grilled smoked duck breast. (Vic Harradine)
Stratus Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.20 (131037) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herb and mixed spice galore rip from the glass of this tightly focused and firm red blend. It’s light on its feet with flavours of strawberry, cranberry and pomegranate. Finishing with a leafy note and drying tannin, it’s a lovely match for pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Aromas of spice and mineral with undertones of chalk introduce expressive flavours of succulent pie cherry, ripe cranberry, red currant and nuances of mocha. The serious spine of lip-smacking acidity is deftly balanced by the ripe red cherry, red berry fruit and chalky tannin. It’s young and a bit tight right now, handsomely rewarding short-term cellaring—enjoy 2010 to 2014. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand
Craggy Range ‘Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawkes Bay, North Island $41.95 (132043) 14.0% alcohol
Smoke, oak and vanilla on the nose, this is refreshingly crisp and racy on the palate. The oak’s perceptible, but nicely integrated while the fruit flavour predominates with crisp green apple, lemony zest and white grapefruit mingling with hints of nutty notes and spiced pear. It’s medium bodied, fully textured and dishes out a lengthy balanced finish. This is paired perfectly with pan-seared tilapia under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
California
Caymus ‘Special Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $129.95 (711663) 15.4% alcohol
Toasty, exotic spice and dark berry fruit aromas introduce this expressive rich and concentrated gem. Fully flavoured—gobs of rich dark chocolate, cassis and kirsch liqueur—and well balanced, this also sports a monumental finish of bramble berry and black licorice. It’s beautifully sculpted and structured, full bodied and fully textured washing over the palate in endless warm sweet—15.4% alcohol—waves. (Vic Harradine)
Chateau Montelena ‘The Montelena Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $139.95 (709881) 14.2% alcohol
Purity of fruit, deft balance and fruit forward, this has it all. There are cedar, toasty notes, mocha and gamey aromas on the complex nose while the huge expression of fruit displays flavours of succulent bramble berry and mulberry. Mid weight and nicely textured, it finishes lengthy and forceful with dark fruit flavours and pie cherry underpinned with ripe firm tannin. Drink 2012 – 2030 paired with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $67.95 (024190) 14.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of vanilla and red berry fruit drift off the nose of this attractive cellar dweller. There’s a boatload of ripe succulent fruit flavour on the mid palate—black currant, Bing cherry and spiced black plum—that follow through the lengthy finish picking up dry tannin and a chocolate-covered pie cherry flavour. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured, perfectly balanced and fairly priced. Drink 2012 – 2018 with marinated grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)
Opus One 2005
Napa Valley $299.00 750 mL / $189.95 375mL (multiple #s)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent – at $360.95 750 mL) This cult classic results from a partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux fame. It’s a blend of classic Bordeaux varietals—Cabernet Sauvignon with lesser amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It’s full of fruit flavours--dark currant and sweet cassis—with roasted espresso, black pepper, dark chocolate and mineral notes. A nice touch of tobacco comes around after a few minutes in the glass. It’s firmly structured with big, very ripe tannins creating a chewy texture, yet still well balanced due to all the fruit. It’s full-bodied with a long finish and best be appreciated between 2012 and 2018. (Mark Tandan)
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Blue Label’ Merlot 2007
California $25.95 13.8% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) From a fabulous vintage, this is a stunning Merlot with blended amounts of Petite Sirah (9%) and Syrah (5%). Aromas of dark juicy cherry, mixed spice and ripe black plum provide segue to waves of rich and succulent flavours—Bing cherry, dark chocolate, plum compote and nuances of vanilla. It’s medium bodied, silky smooth and framed beautifully by a firm tannin structure, 16 months of seamlessly integrated French oak and an agreeable stream of balancing acidity. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2014, happily on its own or paired with grilled lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Ironstone ‘Reserve Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2007
Lodi $29.95 (659946) 14.5% alcohol
Expressive aromas of spice box and leather segue balanced and succulent flavours of black currant, bramble berry and licorice. Mid weight with a delightfully plush texture, it dishes out a lengthy fruit-forward balanced finish of mulberry and black currant jam flavour that’s nicely supported by moderating acidity and underlying fine-grained tannin. Good value and paired well with spicy meat-laden pizza or spicy tomato-based sauce and pasta. (Vic Harradine)
Australia
Elderton ‘Command Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $89.95 (716142) 14.5% alcohol
Classy and elegant, this is succulent, balanced and age worthy. Lifted aromas of dark spiced fruit and cedar segue stunning purity of fruit with persistent flavours of mulberry, black currant and bramble berry blossoming forth on the mid palate. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good with pie cherry, wisps of oak—it spent 34 months in French and American barrels—and ripe supple tannin kicking in. Drink after 2014 and a three-hour aeration/decant to 2025. If this is your price bracket, don’t pass it up. (Vic Harradine)
Elderton Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (009175) 14.5% alcohol
This offers good value. Structured and balanced, this opens with fairly subtle aromas of dark fruit and savoury spice before delivering a tantalizing succulent wash of flavour that caresses the palate—dark berry fruit, mulberry and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and nicely textured, it’s a drink-now-and-on-to-2018 red. It finishes with hints of well-integrated oak, ripe supple tannin and a lengthy fruit-filled aftertaste. Pair with grilled lamb tenderloins. (Vic Harradine)
Peter Lehmann ‘The Futures’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $31.95 (606780) 14.5% alcohol
Nudging 5 stars, it’s pricey, but worth every penny as the ‘King of the Barossa’ delivers, yet again. Savoury spice and tapenade on the nose, this gorgeous expression of Barossa Shiraz over-delivers on the palate with rich, concentrated and luscious flavours—spice-infused bramble berry and boysenberry to the fore. It’s mid weight, generously textured with a lengthy balanced finish that layers on adornments of oak and black pepper. (Vic Harradine)
Rhône Valley, France
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 750 mL $46.95 (968750) 375 mL
Providing one of those rare near-religious tasting experiences, the complex and lifted nose jumps from the glass with tar, black licorice, dark berry fruit and gamey aromas. Polished flavours of black currant, cherry and black plum are entwined with espresso roast and nuances of garrigue. Finishing lengthy and luxurious, it’s full bodied, fully flavoured and brimming with promise—drink 2012 – 2025. (Vic Harradine)
Tuscany
Antinori ‘Solaia’ 2005
IGT Toscana $234.95 (987586)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This cult classic is always a hit with collectors and this vintage should prove no exception. The nose currently features herbal and mineral notes, with dried figs, cranberry, espresso and chocolate notes. The palate offers a great core of acidity with persistent, lingering tannins, creating modest balance today but with the promise of even greater integration in a few years. I’m not a fan of pairing such a complex wine with anything but the simplest of flavours, so when it’s ready enjoy this wine with firm cheeses. (Mark Tandan)
Luce Della Vite ‘Luce’ 2006
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 15.0% alcohol
This red blend—55% Merlot and 45% Sangiovese—spent 4 weeks macerating on the skins and 14 months in new oak. The lifted complex nose dishes out aromas of toasty oak, tobacco, earthiness and espresso roast. Rich concentrated flavours of bramble berry, blueberry and pomegranate abound and are carried along on a generous mouth feel and a bed of solid firm tannin. It’s medium to full bodied, perfectly balanced and sports a monumental finish of luscious fruit flavour. Drink now to 2018 after a two-hour aeration/decant paired with a thick rib eye grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Antinori ‘Badia A Passignano’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (384552) 12.5% alcohol
Savoury herb and spice, earthy notes and wisps of mixed berry fruit segue this well-textured and mid-weight Sangiovese. Black plum, pie cherry and pomegranate flavours persist through the lengthy finish mingling with ripe cranberry and hints of blueberry tart. This spent 14 months in oak barrels, now well integrated, and a further 12 in bottle before release, both softening the still perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and drink now to 2019. Pair with a tomato/eggplant/veal dish. (Vic Harradine)
Spain
Atalaya Almansa 2007
DO Almansa $21.95 (132605) 14.0% alcohol
From the alluring nose of red licorice and exotic spice to the lingering spice-infused aftertaste, this is scrumptious. Flavours of chocolate-dipped black juicy cherry, briary berry and licorice abound on this complex and plush red blend. Mid weight with a nice mouth feel, it sports a lingering finish of spice-infused black plum, ripe dark berry fruit and a firm tannin structure. Aerated/decant for two hours and enjoy alongside grilled pork back ribs dripping in BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Main Release
Fortified Wine
Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown’ Oloroso
Jerez, Spain $11.95 (437467)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) What a treat, what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wine
Perrin & Fils ‘Muscat de Beaumes de Venise’ 2007
AOC Beaumes de Venise $16.95 (004713) 375 mL
If you like your dessert/sweet wines delicate and elegantly flavoured and textured, this great-value offering is just the ticket. My first introduction to this commune introduced me to a life-long friend; hope the same for you. Lychee, exotic spice and orange rind on the nose, the palate is gently washed with sweet succulent flavours of peel marmalade, candied citrus and tropical fruit. It’s well balanced finishing with a lip-smacking underpinning of moderating citrus acidity. Paired perfectly with fruit flan, Bavarian apple torte or lemon cheesecake. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Robert Mondavi ‘Fumé Blanc’ 2007
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 14.3% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a unique and delicious expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Involved aromas of buttered toast, floral and herbaceous notes segue flavours of gooseberry and white peach that arrive in palate-drenching waves. It’s mid weight, creamy textured and sports a lingering crisp and lip-smacking citrus finish. 8% Semillon was blended in then it was aged sur lie—resting on expended yeast cells, followed by batonage—stirring the cells periodically adding texture and flavour. Finally, it was aged three months in mostly seasoned French oak barrels. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Bonterra Merlot 2006
Mendocino County $19.95 (984724) 13.9% alcohol
The quiet nose emits aromas of mixed field berry and mocha while the palate’s treated to a fruity, smooth and mellow red. Black Damson plum and dark berry flavours glide along on a bed of ripe fine-grained tannin and good moderating acidity. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and dishes out a plush, almost creamy, finish that layers on some adornments of espresso roast and spice. (Vic Harradine)
Hahn Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Central Coast $17.95 (057877) 14.2% alcohol
The nose isn’t overpowering, but it’s appealing and complex; look for aromas of black licorice, tar and mint mingling with berry fruit. It’s straightforward and uncomplicated with sweet succulent flavours of cassis and black juicy cherry. It’s medium in body and texture, well balanced and replays the flavours on the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $19.95 (025106)
Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit and vanilla segue this lovely expression of California Cab at an attractive price. The flavours of black currant, minty cherry and hints of savoury spice and herbs are delivered on a nicely textured mouth feel balanced by moderating acidity. The tannins are plush and supple and the finish lengthy and fruity. Give this a go with steak-frites. (Vic Harradine)
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $89.95 (943472) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of toast, spearmint and herbs drift off the glass of this medium-bodied very nicely textured red. There are oodles of black berry and succulent Bing cherry throughout. It’s well structured and deftly balanced with a solid underpinning of supple tannin framed by moderating acidity. It finishes medium in length, adding on nuances of cassis and mixed spice. Aerate/decant an hour or two then pour with medium-rare grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Doña Paula Estate Shiraz/Malbec 2007
Mendoza $17.95 (998492) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance on this rich and robust blend weighs heavily in your favour. The nose is fairly subtle—spice and berry fruit—before hitting its stride on the palate delivering a fully flavoured nicely textured surge of flavour with cassis and briary berry, along with dark chocolate making an appearance on the lingering fruity and well-balanced finish. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (726802) 14.5% alcohol
From a stellar producer, this provides excellent value and good cellaring potential. Expressive on the nose with aromas of red licorice and spice box, the plush flavours wash over the palate with bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and spiced black plum to the fore. It’s mid weight, generously textured with a balanced long aftertaste. It’s drinking well now and will continue to do so through 2017. (Vic Harradine)
Katnook Estate Shiraz 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (938225) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury spice, peppery notes and black currant aromas all make an appearance on the expressive nose. There are succulent flavours of kirsch liqueur, ripe mulberry fruit and wisps of oak, from 15 months in barrel, on the palate. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and dishes out a lengthy well balanced fruit-filled aftertaste that’s framed by well-sculpted ripe plush tannin. In 1998 this winemaker and Shiraz from Katnook won Australia’s most prestigious trophy, the Jimmy Watson. (Vic Harradine)
Mawson’s Hill ‘Block 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Wrattonbully, South Australia $19.95 (060228) 14.5% alcohol
Leafy herbs and red berry fruit aromas drift off the nose of this charming evenly paced Cab. There’s good purity of fruit that’s present throughout—pie cherry, and ripe cranberry—framed by good acidity and a dry minty finish. It’s light to medium bodied and ratchets up a notch with food. Give it a go paired with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Penley Estate ‘Condor’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Coonawarra, South Australia $21.95 (731893) 15.0% alcohol
Opening with an expressive nose of dark toast and bramble berry fruit aromas, this washes over the palate in waves with ripe sweet cherry and black currant to the fore. Mid weight and nicely textured, it dishes out a deftly balanced fruity and lingering finish and a world of value. (Vic Harradine)
Peter Lehmann ‘Layers’ 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (138883) 14.5% alcohol
Full bodied and fully textured, this is also a full-bore delicious red blend that’s well priced. Savoury spice and dark berry fruit aromas segue palate-coating flavours of minty black currant, chocolate dipped cherries and spiced black plum. With barely a hint of oak or tannin, this is plush and accessible; it drinks well on its own and has the oomph to pair well with grilled strip loin or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Richard Hamilton ‘Gumprs’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (600122) 14.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of berry fruit and mixed spice introduce this full-bodied red. There’s flavour galore with a persistent stream of succulent black cherry, spiced currant and cassis. There’s perceptible tannin on the lengthy balanced finish that’s easily tamed by a two-hour aeration/decant or grilled-rare red meat. It earned its final half star on value—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, New Zealand $29.95 (304469) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This opens with lovely aromas of gooseberry, mineral and hints of honeydew melon that are not overly pungent. The laser-like flavours of ripe pineapple and citrus broaden on the generously textured palate with ripe peach and yellow plum to the fore. It’s medium bodied and well balanced finishing with a glorious gusher of mouth-watering tang. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol
This Pinot dances lightly on the palate delivering a steady stream of ripe cranberry, red currant and pie cherry flavour along with a generous mouth feel. There's barely a hint of tannin and the 6 months in oak has been nicely integrated. There's a generous spine of acidity that keeps this crisp and refreshing through the lip-smacking finish. A versatile food wine, it pours well alongside spaghetti Bolognese, meat-laden pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Domaine de la Rossignone ‘L’Essentiel’ Sancerre 2007
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (141143) 13.0% alcohol
Citrus, herbaceous and floral aromas introduce this Sauvignon Blanc as it dances lightly across the palate with racy flavours of lemon zest, herbaceous grassy notes and white grapefruit rind. It finishes a bit more fruity with nuances of pineapple and key lime. This is paired perfectly with mussels steamed in a white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château au Vignoble 2005
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $15.95 (140004) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed spice and berry fruit on the nose, this is an uncomplicated blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. With a lovely wash of flavour—red currant, freshly picked strawberry and spiced plum—that’s persistent through the dry tannic finish, this could use a couple of years in the cellar. Open in 2012 with a hearty lamb daube. (Vic Harradine)
Couly-Dutheil ‘La Baronnie Madeleine’ Chinon 2006
AOC Chinon $21.95 (057059) 13.5% alcohol
This is a solid Cabernet Franc from a prime growing area for this varietal. Unforgiving if over-cropped or from a cool vintage—it becomes leafy and weedy—this displays none of that; it’s chockfull of bright ripe fruit. Tar and charred oak on the nose, the palate’s treated to a nicely textured steady stream of zesty flavour with red cherry, cranberry and red plum predominant. There’s a firm tannin underpinning, drink 2012 to 2016. (Vic Harradine
Perrin & Fils Côtes du Rhône-Villages ‘L’Andéol’ Rasteau 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau $19.95 (976845) 14.0% alcohol
Quite expressive on the nose, there are heady aromas of exotic spice, tobacco and dark field berry fruit. Medium bodied, nicely textured and flavourful, gorgeous black currant, cassis and mocha coats the palate lingering through the lengthy balanced finish. The tannins add structure and there’s excellent moderating acidity. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: White Wine
Castello Della ‘Cervaro Della Sala’ 2007
IGT Umbria $54.95 (512376) 13.0% alcohol
There’s a lot of wine offered in this fully flavoured silky-smooth gem. Toasty, nutty and spice on the nose, you’ll experience plush and expressive flavour throughout with a boatload of tree fruit—peach, apple and yellow plum—flavours mingling with ripe citrus—lemon and ruby red grapefruit. It finishes creamy, almost ‘oily’ with a prominent hit of toasty oak. No need for accompaniments, it’s a treat to sip on its own. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Sogrape Reserva Douro 2003
DOC Douro $17.95 (335208) 14.0% alcohol
A lifted bouquet of leather, fig and berry fruit introduces the straightforward, light-on-its-feet bistro-styled red. There’s good fruit—cherry and black currant—and it’s nicely textured with a medium-length finish that layers on some sweet dark berry adornments. Sip on its own or pair with lighter-styled appetizers—sliced, rare roast beef on toasts. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Cuatro Pasos Mencía 2007
DO Bierzo $16.95 (039313) 14.0% alcohol
This hitherto virtually unknown region and varietal have become flavour of the month in Vintages—the vines that produced this are 80 years old. This opens with a funky nose of espresso roast, forest floor and toasty notes then coats the palate with rich concentrated flavours of cassis, black currant and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s good weight, well textured and dishes out a lengthy finish of dark fruit flavour and perceptible firm tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (674564) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews crazily in your favour; pick up an armful. The nose is expressive, graphite and black licorice and the flavours are an amalgam of black currant, espresso roast and briary berry. It’s perfectly balanced, displays good moderating acidity, is mid weight and nicely textured with a complex and lingering fruit-forward finish. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Concha y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Puento Alto $19.95 (337238) 14.5% alcohol
This is a glorious wine to sip, pair with food or stick in the cellar for enjoyable drinking over the next 5 years—if you’re quick, it’s $18.95 until November 29. Dark toast and spiced field berry on the nose, the palate-coating succulent flavours—cassis, ripe boysenberry and Bing cherry—are underpinned by a firm chalky tannin structure and excellent moderating acidity. It’s mid weight, generously textured and finishes lengthy and luxurious, chockfull of warm ripe fruit flavour. A Vintages Essentials wine, it’s always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, Australia $21.95 (659607) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and flavourful, smooth and compelling, this is downright delicious. Aromas of mixed spice, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate rip off the glass while concentrated flavours of bramble berry, juicy Bing cherry and ripe cranberry wash over the palate in waves. It’s medium to full bodied, beautifully textured and sports a lengthy, balanced and fruit-filled finish. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Willm ‘Reserve’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace $16.95 (11452) 12.0% alcohol
A consistently well-made Riesling, it reflects the minerality of its terroir and offers floral and fresh citrus aromas. Fermented in stainless, the wine is medium bodied with a crisp texture and soft citrus notes—think lemon pie and sweet pink grapefruit. The finish is mouthwatering and has great length. Drink now alongside a mesclun salad with goat cheese dressing or cellar it for a few years. This is a Vintages Essentials wine that is always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)
New in the LCBO
California
Black Anvil Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $11.70 (45575) 13.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit and hints of spice drift off the nose of this extremely well-priced California Cab. There’s a solid stream of flavour that washes over the palate—succulent cherry, a bit of cassis and spiced mulberry—underpinned by ripe fine-grained tannin and moderating pie cherry. This is mid weight, has a nice mouth feel and sports a long and balanced finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Leaping Horse Vineyards Merlot 2007
California $11.70 (613265) 13.5% alcohol
Produced by Ironstone Vineyards, this is an easy-drinking crowd pleaser. True to the varietal, this wine has great aromas of dark sweet fruit along with toasty notes and a hint of char. It’s warm, plush and velvety on the palate with succulent flavors of candied red fruits and sweet herbs and spices. It’s well balanced with soft tannins, moderating acidity and sports a long spicy, fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $14.95 (55517) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, oak and vanilla on the nose there’s a lovely stream of fruit flavour on the palate with ripe mulberry, dark bramble berry and cranberry predominant. There are loads of texture from firm tannin while it finishes well balanced and fruit forward. Delightful on its own, it also has the structure and oomph to pair well with grilled steak or a hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Wente ‘Southern Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Livermore Valley-San Francisco Bay $16.95 (301507) 13.5% alcohol
Spicy and floral with red field berry fruit aromas on the nose, this well-paced Cab has purity of fruit and good structure to offer. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and balanced flavours—spiced black cherry, ripe pomegranate and black currant galore. The fruity finish lingers. Pour alongside grilled rib eye or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Wente ‘Morning Fog’ Chardonnay 2008
Livermore Valley-San Francisco Bay $16.45 (175430) 13.5% alcohol
From grapes cooled by early morning fog, this showcases balance and complexity. Expressive aromas roll off the glass—vanilla, spiced pear and tropical fruit—while surging fruit flavours of nectarine, ripe citrus and delicious apple coat the palate. It’s mid weight, generously textured with seamlessly integrated oak and a lingering delectable finish This is an outstanding Chardonnay from the oldest-continuous-family-owned (5th generation) winery in the country. (Vic Harradine)
Chile
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Central Valley $12.95 (278416) 13.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, it billows forth with expressive aromas of dusty earthiness and black currant. There’s a solid stream of tangy flavour with red cherry, cranberry and red currant to the fore. It’s nicely textured and finishes with adornments of mint, espresso roast and perceptible tannin on the dry finish. Give it a go alongside marinated and grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Shiraz 2008
DO Central Valley $12.95 (568055) 13.5% alcohol
Aged in small oak barrels for 8 months, this wine has an expressive dark berry nose complemented by vanilla and spices. The smoky oak marries well with the sweet ripe berries—boysenberry, blackberry and blueberry. The rich mouthfeel is complemented by drying tannins and moderating acidity. Well balanced, it has a long mouthwatering finish with hints of cherry pie and sweet spices. Try it with ribs with a sweet spicy sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Concha y Toro ‘Frontera’ Chardonnay 2009
Chile $14.95 (465849) 1500mL 13.0% alcohol
There’s big bang for your buck here; a magnum for under $15. The quiet aromas of floral and apple introduce this straightforward easy-sipping white. It’s lighter-styled, but doesn’t stint on the flavour—green apple spice and citrus—or overall tasting experience—it’s balanced, crisp and refreshing. A lovely aperitif, it also has the body and flavour to pair well with chicken or veal appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Frontera’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Chile $13.95 (113019) 1500mL 13.0% alcohol
This uncomplicated table wine offers good value and arrives in a 1500 mL bottle ready for the holiday season neighborhood party or banquet. Delicate aromas of tropical fruit and light citrus tickle the nose. The palate is crisp and fresh, with a hint of minerality, sharp citrus and a pithy bite. The bright flavors and zesty acidity linger on the finish. It’ll complement pan-fried sole with lemon butter. (Susan Desjardins)
France
Ogier Côtes du Rhône ‘Heritages’ 2007
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $16.95 (535849) 14.0% alcohol
This wine grabs your attention with a lifted nose of rich dark fruit, vanilla and toast. It’s rich and concentrated on the palate with a soft texture and perceptible, but well-integrated tannins. Gorgeous flavours of dark berries and cherries, as well as sweet spices grace the palate. Medium bodied and well balanced, the wine has a warm succulent fruity finish. One bottle may not be enough! (Susan Desjardins)
Ogier Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2008
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $11.95 (134916) 13.3% alcohol
Produced from a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, this rosé has a lovely salmon color inviting you to savour the expressive nose of sweet field berries. The aromas follow through on the palate delivering fresh acidity complemented by sweet red fruit. The wine is light bodied, well balanced and has a lingering finish with hints of red grapefruit and white pepper. It’s a great sipping wine or could be enjoyed with sautéed shrimp. (Susan Desjardins)
Piper-Heidsieck ‘Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $49.95 (462432) 12.0% alcohol
This is elegant and light on its feet with an expressive nose of white flowers, citrus and hints of baking bread. This Grande Marques house blend is 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 15% Chardonnay. It’s light bodied and nicely textured delivering a refreshing mouthful of froth. The flavours include lemon zest and green apple and they’re persistent through the medium-length finish. This is a perfect aperitif or it can be paired with seafood or chicken appetizers. The price is equally attractive as sipping this delightful bubbly. (Vic Harradine)
Pol Roger ‘Extra Cuvée de Réserve’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $58.80 (51953) 12.5% alcohol
Sir Winston Churchill’s favourite, one mouthful and this could become your go-to bubbly for over the holidays—it’s certainly full value. Golden-straw coloured, it’s defined by rich flavour, a very small bead of bubbles and lip-smacking crispness without being acidic. Flavours of lemon biscuit, green apple and ripe succulent tree fruit abound carried throughout by generous texture into a balanced finish. Family-owned for generations, it’s one of the most highly regarded and respected Grande Marque houses. (Vic Harradine)
Germany
Gustav Adolf Schmitt Niersteiner Spâtlese ‘Late Harvest’ 2008
Prädikatswein Niersteiner Rheinhessen $10.95 (262337) 10.0% alcohol
A blend of Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Sylvaner, this late harvest wine was fermented in stainless. The bouquet is of sweet tree fruit—apricots, nectarines, peaches—with a hint of citrus. At first sip, tangy citrus and nectarine collide. Yet, there’s a wonderful balance of fruit and acidity. It has a full-bodied mouth feel, but it dances lightly on the palate. A great value, try it with spicy Asian cuisine. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy
The previous winecurrent review for this wine was from a bottle that was flawed, only discovered after tasting from another bottle at a later date. The first bottle was 'corked'. Not one of those stinky, musty 'corked' wines easily detected, but an insidious cork taint that strips some of the flavour and complexity from the wine, leaving you thinking, That's good, but not great. The kind of cork taint that drives wineries to screw cap. I've now tasted this three times; the following is what you can expect.
Masi ‘Costasera Amarone Classico’ 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $37.35 (317057) 15.0% alcohol
Brimming with aroma, flavour and complexity, this is a stunning wine from a fabulous vintage. Aromas of lilac, earthiness, toasty notes and dark berry fruit segue rich flavours that coat the palate with ripe Bing cherry, spiced black plum, black currant and hints of minerality. Medium bodied and nicely textured it dishes out a lingering well-structured finish with ripe tannin mingling with dark fruit and espresso roast. If you're a fan of Amarone and/or Masi, you simply must this give this a try. (Vic Harradine)
Barone Ricasoli ‘Campo Ceni’ 2007
IGT Toscana $12.95 (241844) 13.5% alcohol
Predominantly Sangiovese with a splash of Merlot, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Earthy, dark berry fruit and toasty/oaky aromas—spent 6 months in barrel—segue rich concentrated and well-balanced flavours of juicy Bing cherry and pomegranate mingling with mixed spice in the background. It comes as a complete package—balanced, plush tannin, good mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering finish. What more could you ask for? (Vic Harradine)
Santi ‘Sortesele’ Pinot Grigio 2008
IGT Delle Venezie $12.90 (637603) 12.5% alcohol
Delivering a gorgeous nose of floral and honeyed fruit aromas, this nicely textured white is fully flavoured and good value. Look for balanced flavours of crisp citrus and delectable tree fruit with apple and peach predominant. It has good weight and dishes out a lovely mouth-watering finish. Lovely sipped on it’s own as an aperitif, it also pairs well with seafood—mussels or pan-seared fresh water fish. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Aligoté 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.45 (284950) 12.0%alcohol
For many, this is an undiscovered grape varietal—time to discover it! Tantalizing aromas jump from the glass with mineral notes and ripe Bosc pear. Expressing itself on the palate with tree fruit – Granny Smith apple, pear and citrus—there’s a persistent stream of crisp refreshing flavour through the lengthy well-balanced finish. Medium bodied and nicely textured, there’s a surge of nervy citrus on the aftertaste that’s looking for a cuisine match. Had mine with steamed mussels and it was divine. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet-Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (454991) 12.5%alcohol
With spiced black plum, earthy and toasty aromas on the nose, this delivers a gusher of bright ripe fruit with red cherry, cranberry and red currant galore. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with good verve and raciness throughout. The lengthy finish is adorned with ripe tannin and lip-smacking pomegranate and minty notes. Well paced and delicious on its own, it pairs well with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Cabernet Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (349191) 13.0% alcohol
From Pillitteri’s Australian winemaker, Dr. Marc Bradshaw, comes a lovely medium-bodied red blend that leads with Cabernet Franc supported by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The aromas are a combination of ripe red fruit and roasted red peppers, providing a great combination of fruit and earthiness. The wine is well structured, but supple with well-integrated tannins. Hints of coffee bean complement the plush fruit on the long smooth finish. Great value given the price! (Susan Desjardins)
South Africa
Robertson Winery Shiraz 2009
WO Robertson $11.90 (610949) 14.1% alcohol
Aged in a combination of French and American oak for 6 months, this well-priced Shiraz has an intense sweet fruity nose of dark berries with a hint of tapenade and pepper. It’s medium bodied with a fine seam of acidity that carries the luscious dark fruit throughout the palate. Well balanced with delicate vanilla notes, the wine has a medium-long fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Ontario Wineries
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Rosomel Vineyard – Nuit Blanche’ 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $40.20 13.5% alcohol
A stunning wine—89% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Semillon—it opens with a heady nose of brioche, toasty nuances, and distinctive smoky notes that emanate from the terroir, not the oak. On the rich, generously textured and beautifully structured palate there’s a wash of flavour with hazelnut, spice and Granny Smith apple mingling with peach and pear notes. Only 40% of the wine aged in oak barrels and that’s been seamlessly integrated. It finishes clean, crisp, refreshing and drop-dead gorgeous. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Estate’ Riesling 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.20 11.0% alcohol
Low yields, wild yeasts and meticulous vine and wine management coalesce to produce this racy gem. Mineral, slate and yellow plum on the nose, there’s a focused stream of zesty flavour with lemon-lime, pineapple and white grapefruit to the fore. It’s balanced, refreshing with a lingering lip-smacking finish that adds adornments of nectarine and the promise of desirable petrol characteristics after three to five years of careful cellaring. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Roman’s Block’ Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.20 10.8% alcohol
If you like or love Riesling, you must try this. Vinified from the famous 21-B Weiss clone, hand picked, hand sorted, whole-bunched pressed, wild yeasts, this lives up to its breeding—these vines produced Canada’s Best Riesling 6 of the past 10 years. A wave of zesty racy flavour is carried along on a plush texture—lots of mineral nuances, pink grapefruit and lemon pie filling. It also delivers a mouth-watering array of flavour on the lengthy and well-balanced finish with green apple and Mirabelle plum to the fore. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)
Rosewood Estates ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $40.20 13% alcohol
Artisanal and rare—only 3 barrels made—you’ll be seduced by the purity of fruit and deft balance. Dark berry fruit and exotic spice box on the nose, palate-coating succulent flavours wash through the lingering finish with briary berry, spiced black plum and kirsch liqueur predominant. It’s medium bodied, fully textured and underpinned by ripe supple tannin. The finish layers on espresso roast and lip-smacking pie cherry flavour. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case toll free from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)
Private Order Wines
La Maison Pierrel ‘Les Traditions’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $57.00 12.0% alcohol
As with most Brut Non-Vintage Champagnes, this blend offers great value and showcases a style the house is particularly proud of vintage after vintage—60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. This delivers a fine bead of bubbles and aromas of baking brioche and leesy notes. There’s good attack on the palate with green apple and Mirabelle plum mingling with crisp refreshing citrus. The texture is quite plush, almost creamy while the finish is mouth-watering and refreshing. Order by the case via Private Order from Nokhrin Wines. Vic Harradine)
La Maison Pierrel ‘Les Traditions’ Brut Rosé Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $67.00 12.0% alcohol
A blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, the aromas are expressive and alluring—floral nuances mingling with red berry fruit and lemon biscuit. There are plenty of persistent lines of tiny bubbles in the glass, as the song suggests, and the flavour is very consistent throughout with crisp ruby red grapefruit and racy lemon zest predominant. It has a nicely textured mouth feel finishing in a blaze of lip-smacking strawberry and lemon zest. Has the oomph and charm to pair up with roast chicken, duck or turkey. Order by the case via Private Order from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
La Maison Pierrel ‘Les Oressences’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $75.00 12.0% alcohol
The 100% Chardonnay shines here with silky texture, well-sculpted structure and complexity—the über luxury U.K. hotel chain, Claridge’s, showcases La Maison Pierrel. Mineral, apple and fresh-baked bread aromas segue a beautifully textured wash of flavour with Granny Smith apple, quince jelly and spice-infused lemon pie to the fore. The lovely and lingering zesty finish cleans up crisp and more-ish. Order by the case via Private Order from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine François Villard ‘Les Contour des Deponcins’ Viognier 2008
Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône Valley $40.00 13.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle, yellow peach, mineral and straw on the nose, this dishes out a deftly balanced mouthful of flavour—tropical fruit, racy citrus and oodles of lemon citrus for balance. There are wisps of vanilla and nutty tones throughout as the seasoned oak has been totally integrated. If finishes medium length, dry and refreshing. Purchase by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine François Villard ‘Mairlant Blanc’ 2008
AOC Saint Joseph, Rhône Valley $40.00 13.8% alcohol
Vanilla, brioche and slate-mineral aromas drift from this fully textured and flavourful blend—70% Marsanne, 30% Roussanne. Gobs of fruit flavours blossom forth on the palate with honeyed nectarine, yellow peach and mixed spice galore. It’s mid weight creamy textured and sports a lingering finish of racy citrus and spice-infused yellow plum. There are touches of oak and more mineral notes on the well-balanced finish. A truly delightful wine. Purchase by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines by e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine François Villard ‘Le Galet Blanc’ 2007
AOC Côte-Rôtie, Rhône Valley $90.00 12.8% alcohol
Lifted aromas of toast, oak, spice box and gamey notes rip from the glass of this rich and tangy 100% Syrah. Flavours of red berry fruit, zesty cranberry and pie cherry mingle with a firm tannin structure and oak—18 months in 60% new oak barrels. It finishes bold, complex and lengthy—it’s also unfined and unfiltered—with added hits of aromatic bitters and red currant. This is a wine to be enjoyed 2012 to 2018—sipped on its own or alongside good friends and a hearty cassoulet. Purchase by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines by e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan
Rating System
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
| Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |