November 7, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Wines Under $20.00. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Sassicaia – this 2006 ‘Super Tuscan’ rings the 5 star bell under Italy: Red Wine
- Conch Y Toro – their ‘Winemaker’s Lot’ series hits one out of the park with a $17.95 Cabernet Sauvignon under Chile: Red Wine
- Holiday gifting – a sparkling Chenin Blanc from Cave Spring Cellars, icewine and ‘Special Late Harvest’ wines are all found at the end of the newsletter
- Punch these dates into your BlackBerry – November 6, 7 and 8. It’s the Ottawa Wine and Food Show; learn more and purchase tickets here.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
Wines Under $20 Feature
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (681247) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of mineral and tree fruit drift from the glass of this crisp, clean and refreshing Chardonnay. This is well balanced and integrates the oak seamlessly—less than half the wine was aged in barrel. It’s medium weight and nicely textured, showering a delectable mouthful of crisp green apple and ripe pear flavour on the mid-palate, wrapping up with energetic citrus and pineapple on the mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (140855) 14.0% alcohol
Zuccardi produces the wildly popular ‘Fuzion’—this ‘Q’ is a step up in price and a leap forward in complexity and structure. The lifted nose offers up spice box and mixed field berry fruit aromas while the pronounced dark and delicious flavours surge over the palate in waves—Bing cherry, black currant and adornments of espresso roast and toasty notes. It’s nicely textured and structured with a solid underpinning of firm tannin and moderating acidity. It finishes complex, balanced and lengthy. Aerate/decant for two hours or drink 2011 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)
Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (322586) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is gracefully structured with full-fruit flavours—bramble berry and boysenberry compote—along with nuances of espresso roast and mocha. It opens with aromas of mixed field berry and hints of chocolate and finishes with a generous squirt of sour cherry and deft balance. It’s quite opulent, medium to full bodied, nicely textured with an underpinning of firm tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Elderton ‘Friends Vineyard Series’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.00 (660480) 14.0% alcohol
There’s good bang for your buck here; arrive early, pick up a few. Expressive and expansive on the nose, this delivers aromas of tar, dark berry fruit and nuances of coconut; the latter from eleven months spent in American oak barrels. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a mini-explosion of balanced fruit flavour on the palate with pie cherry, ripe mulberry and black plum predominant. The lingering finish layers on delicious dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)
Las Rocas Garnacha 2006
DO Calatayud, Spain $15.95 (0095190)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Medium-deep ruby in colour, this Garnacha will wow with intense blackberry, cherry, mulberry, liquorice, mineral, pepper and tobacco flavours. Medium-plus bodied and juicy, it’s smooth textured with friendly tannins, medium acidity and 14.5% alcohol. Drink it casually with a juicy burger and paprika-spiked fries. (Lindsay Groves)
Château de Gourgazaud ‘Cuvée Mathilde’ 2007
AOC Minervois, France $14.95 (958629) 13.0% alcohol
Bistro-styled and straightforward, look for savoury herb and toasty aromas plus a steady stream of racy flavours—sour cherry, cranberry and pomegranate mingling with mixed spice. It’s mid weight, nicely textured finishing lengthy and tangy. Pair with lasagna or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône, France $13.95 (142125) 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry, mineral and spice aromas segue flavours of crisp cranberry and pie cherry on the palate. This blend—70% Syrah, 30% Grenache—ladles out a lingering finish of red berry fruit mingling with savoury herbs and dusty tannin. It’s mid weight and medium textured moving up a notch paired with food. Give it a go with pasta in a tomato-based sauce or pizza. (Vic Harradine)
A-Mano Primitivo 2007
IGT Puglia, Italy $15.95 (972588) 13.5% alcohol
Closely aligned with Zinfandel, this crowd pleaser dishes up a lot of wine for the price. Raspberry jam and spice on the nose, there’s a tsunami wave of flavour with ripe succulent mixed dark berry fruit and fennel-infused plum compote to the fore. It finishes surprisingly well balanced with just enough non-interfering tannin for structure and interest. Give this a go with a slab of smoked and grilled pork back ribs dripping with spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Barbi ‘Brusco dei Barbi’ 2007
IGT Toscana, Italy $14.95 (673160) 13.5% alcohol
Fragrant and perfumed on the nose, look for aromas of lilac, spice and blueberry. The flavours are lively, grapey and mouth filling with red berry fruit, more spice, and nuances of pie cherry for balance. It’s light on its feet with good texture. The tannin’s fully resolved while the finish is nicely balanced and lingering. Sipping perfectly well on its own, there’s enough body and flavour to match up well with pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Fortified Wine
Offley Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004
DOC Douro, Portugal $18.95 (070086) 20.5% alcohol
Given the price, flavour and richness, this is offley good value. LBV Ports are ready to drink upon purchase, pairing well with aged hard cheese or chocolate desserts. Spice-driven aromas of cherry and berry fruit segue palate-staining fleshy flavours of raisin, fig and spiced dark cherry. It finishes succulent and lengthy with nuances of dark-chocolate-dipped cherries. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: White Wine
Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 750mL (542522) $12.95 375mL (662478)
This is a gorgeous expression of Gewürztraminer. It’s Alsace in style—exotic aromas and generous texture—and very Niagara in flavour—crisp delectable fruit with a riveting lip-smacking finish. Rosewater and spice box on the nose, it washes over the palate with a surge of vibrant flavour—ripe citrus and pineapple melding with yellow peach and mango. It finishes lengthy and luxurious. Pair with Alsatian onion tart. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: Red Wine
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $19.95 (050450) 12% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a gutsy Cab Franc with age on its side. The heavy dark clay soil and 14 months in oak contribute to its density and charm. There are aromas and flavours galore—ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes among them. It’s medium to full bodied with perceptible grainy tannin and a lingering finish. Drink 2011 to 2014 or pour now with a strip loin grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty, oaky and black currant on the nose, the impeccably handled estate-grown fruit shines through on the medium- to full-bodied generously textured frame. There’s a persistent stream and purity of fruit on the palate—Bing cherry, minty black currant and hints of bramble berry. This is deftly balanced with well-integrated oak and a lingering finish. Drink now to 2014 alongside a thick T-bone grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Jekel Vineyards ‘Gravelstone’ Chardonnay 2007
Monterey $15.95 (421016) 13.5% alcohol
Earning its final half star on value, this is worth a long hard look; it’s a popular party wine. Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas segue a lovely stream of plush flavour—mango, caramel apple and spiced yellow plum. Mid weight and nicely textured, the finish is balanced and flavourful adding on hints of citrus and pineapple. Great sipped on its own, it’s also a willing partner with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)
La Crema Chardonnay 2007
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.9% alcohol
Approaching elegance and reaching perfect balance, it’s also well structured, flavourful and simply delectable. It opens with intriguing aromas of peel marmalade and floral notes before washing over the palate in wave after delicate wave of persistent balanced flavour—nutty, ripe apple, juicy sweet nectarine and intense citrus. It finishes crisp, refreshing and lengthy. A treat on its own, it’ll match lobster, turkey or stuffed pork tenderloin. It’s impressive from cork pop to last drop. (Vic Harradine)
Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $19.95 (136382) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of vanilla and tropical fruit waft from the glass of this plush and textured Chardonnay. Mid weight and well textured it dishes out a boatload of flavour with tree fruit—peach, apple and pear—mingling with hints of lemon pie filling and vanilla. Pour it alongside supermarket take-out rotisserie roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Beringer Pinot Noir 2006
Napa Valley $29.95 (718668)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Aromas of smoke and red currant open up this new world Pinot. The flavours are sweet and ripe (almost candied) cherry and black currant. There's good tang on the finish for balance and all in all, a nice summer wine to be served slightly chilled. Good on its own, it matches well with smoked duck breast with a mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)
Clos du Bois ‘Sonoma Reserve’ Merlot 2006
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $19.95 (034900) 14.5% alcohol
Nudging 5 stars, this is another fabulous ‘Wine of the Month’ selection—it’s rich, concentrated and flavourful. Dark berry, mocha and mixed spice on the nose, the palate’s coated with well-balanced and fully textured flavours—black Damson plum, black currant and cassis—moderated by good acidity and underpinned by a supple tannin structure. The finish lingers, adorned by nuances of bittersweet chocolate and kirsch liqueur. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2007
Sonoma Coast $19.95 (048207) 13.5% alcohol
Expressive aromas of savoury spice and earthiness blow off the glass of this light-on-its-feet, nicely textured Pinot. This is well paced with just enough resolved tannin for structure. Look for red cherry and spiced field berry on the palate with more of the same on the lengthy finish. This is paired well with marinated and grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)
Paraduxx 2006
Napa Valley $52.95 (919662) 14.5% alcohol
Mellow, plush and smooth as satin, this offers up aromas and mouth-coating flavours of black currant jam, succulent Bing cherry and gobs of black plum compote. It’s medium bodied and full of texture with a lengthy fruit-forward finish redolent of spice cake, cassis and sweet vanilla. This would easily hold its own matched with fiery barbequed back ribs or spicy hot chicken wings. (Vic Harradine)
Stags’ Leap Winery Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $44.95 (655399) 13.9% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, mixed spice and savoury herbs segue an uncomplicated, straightforward and food-friendly red. Flavours of red currant, strawberry and pie cherry stream throughout this medium-bodied nicely textured red. The finish is tangy and racy with hints of mint and earthiness. Give it a go with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Weinert Malbec 2004
Mendoza $15.95 (556795) 14.5% alcohol
There are loads of charred oak on the nose and palate of this rich and concentrated Malbec. Succulent flavours of bramble berry, cassis and spiced mulberry abound. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a lingering fruity finish that’s supported by a firm tannin structure. The price is considerably lower than you might expect. Aerate/decant two hours and serve alongside grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: White Wine
Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $27.95 (947937)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There's a touch of elegance and class here. The delicate aromas are subtle with apple, spice and peach up front. The layers of flavours are quite something else; they wash over the palate in waves with green apple, ripe nectarine and juicy yellow peach up front. The oak has been deftly integrated, it's medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a lingering finish of ripe citrus and melon. This is a lovely wine to match with turkey with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
Conchy Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Chardonnay 2007
Pirque, Maipo Valley $17.95 (342857) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) These folks just don’t miss when it comes to making good quality value-driven wine. You’ll find toasty and vanilla notes on the nose from the 9 months ageing in French oak, but imperceptible and perfectly integrated on the palate. There are plenty of green apple and Bosc pear flavours that are balanced perfectly by tangy pineapple and lemon zing. It’s medium to full bodied, very generously textured and sports a long well-balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Conch Y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 115 - Quebrada de Agua Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Maule Valley $17.95 (030965) 14.0% alcohol
This ‘Winemaker’s Lot’ series has certainly caught my attention—this rich and robust selection should also catch yours. Bursting onto the palate, it showers a pronounced and persistent wash of complex flavours—kirsch liqueur, black currant, minty Bing cherry and nuances of toasty oak and espresso roast. It’s mid weight, silky smooth and layers on dark chocolate through the lingering balanced finish. Paired well with rare to medium-rare grilled steak, it also sips perfectly on its own. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
Yalumba Viognier 2008
Eden Valley, South Australia $22.95 (954644) 14.0% alcohol
Wine Enthusiast magazine recently named Yalumba ‘New World Winery of the Year’—taste this to discover why. Yellow peach, spice box and honeysuckle on the nose, this balanced and fruit-flavoured gem delivers a persistent wash of palate-pleasing flavour with juicy nectarine and succulent mango predominant. It finishes crisp and refreshing with a delightful shower of riveting citrus. Pour with pan-seared calamari rings or prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Grant Burge ‘Filsell Old Vine’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (987453) 14.5% alcohol
Elegant, structured and balanced, this also offers tremendous value. The dark glass-staining liquid gives off aromas of vanilla, black pepper, dark berry fruit and exotic spice. Flavours of black plum, dark berry fruit and succulent black cherry surge over the palate in endless waves. It’s full bodied and fully textured dishing out a luscious and lingering finish that melds ripe fruit with a solid tannin underpinning. Safely served 2011 to 2015, it can also be poured now with a grilled steak, rare to medium rare, after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Hope Estate Shiraz 2007
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $17.95 (059998) 13.5% alcohol
Mixed spice, earthy notes and berry fruit aromas segue this nicely textured fully flavoured Hunter Shiraz. Succulent flavours of black currant, spiced Damson plum and racy pie cherry abound. It’s medium bodied and offers a fairly lengthy and well-balanced finish that layers on ripe resolved tannin and adornments of savoury spice. This is paired well when poured with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Merlot 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $16.95 (141267) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of tapenade and eucalyptus waft from this racy and focused Merlot. Look for a delightful and persistent stream of savoury spice, juicy black plum and ripe cranberry flavour mingling with perceptible, but acceptable, tannin. This is mid weight and fairly textured delivering a racy dry finish. Pasta in a tomato-based sauce would be a great dance partner. (Vic Harradine)
Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (730374) 14.0% alcohol
Expressive expansive aromas of ripe dark berry fruit, toasty notes and mixed spice introduce subtle flavours of ripe dark cherry and mulberry mingling with leafy savoury herbs and a firm tannin structure. The lengthy finish layers on some delightful hints of tar and black licorice. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving alongside marinated, lightly grilled and thinly sliced flank steak—fajitas anyone? (Vic Harradine)
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire Quartage’ 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (024091) 14.0% alcohol
Tobacco leaf and sage on the nose, this delivers a meaty and persistent rush of flavour with spice, plum and dark berry fruit to the fore. It’s medium bodied and textured with a lengthy dry tannin finish that’s framed by a bracing spine of acidity. Drink after 2011 alongside lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa Cuvée’ 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $14.95 (684357) 14.0% alcohol
As the Vintages catalogue suggests, there’s good value here. The quiet nose offers subtle aromas of forest floor and spice while the mouth-coating flavours—cassis, mulberry and Montmorency cherry—are delivered on a beautifully textured persistent wash. It’s mid weight with a lengthy finish of moderating acidity delivered through flavours of cranberry and pomegranate melding with a firm tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)
Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (524926) 14.0% alcohol
Linear and focused, this medium-bodied and nicely textured blend—5% Viognier—dishes up aromas of earthiness, spice and red berry fruit. Racy and tangy on the palate, expect cranberry, leafy and red currant flavours persisting throughout. This come into its own with food; give it a go with herb-rubbed roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried cranberries. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (734681) 14.0% alcohol
It sits a bright attractive ruby red in the glass, emitting lifted aromas of mineral and field berry. The hand-picked estate-grown fruit sports flavours of strawberry and minty black plum. Mid weight and nicely textured it finishes racy with drying tannin. Pair with a plate of meat-laden paella. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Cave de Ribeauvillé ‘Prestige’ Pinot Gris 2008
AOC Alsace $18.95 (141218) 13.5% alcohol
From one of the best cooperative groups in Alsace, this off-dry gem bolts from the glass with lifted aromas of dark toast, floral notes and spice. Glorious flavours of spiced peach and honeyed pear and apple ripple through the mid palate and lengthy finish mingling with racy citrus acidity. This sweet and tang sets it up as the perfect dance partner for a spicy Asian dish like tandoori chicken or pad thai. This is good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)
Jean-Michel Sorbre Quincy 2008
AOC Quincy $18.95 (608877) 12.5% alcohol
There are herbaceous and effusive aromas of nettles and citrus galore in this tightly focused and racy offering. The crisp and refreshing flavours are all in the white grapefruit, lemon rind and Granny Smith apple zones. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured with a zingy finish that cries out for pan-seared scallops over a mess of mixed greens under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Laurent Miquel ‘Nord Sud’ Viognier 2008
Vin de Pays d’Oc $16.95 (673236) 13.5% alcohol
Beeswax and treacle on the nose, this lightly textured white delivers a flavourful crisp and refreshing rendition of Viognier. Look for honeyed apple and pear along with a solid spine of citrussy acidity throughout. When looking for a cuisine partner, the perfect match is garlic and buttered pan-seared prawns. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Guillou 2006
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion, France $18.95 (140483) 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Merlot predominant and from older vines averaging 55 years, this opens with aromas of toasty oak, rich dark berry fruit and nuances of earthiness. Look for ripe black cherry, mulberry and dark chocolate on the palate of this medium-weight, nicely textured red. It finishes lengthy with hints of leafiness and chalky tannin. Aerate/decant two hours then pair with something rich and hearty like osso buco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Pierre Amadieu ‘La Grangelière’ Vacqueyras 2007
AOC Vacqueyras $21.95 (076398) 14.5% alcohol
This is a rich and robust red displaying good structure and balance. There’s red berry fruit—currant and cranberry—that melds easily with racy acidity and drying tannins. Medium bodied and nicely textured it’s well paced and well priced. The finish adds quiet hints of sweet dark berry fruit and toasty notes. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Boeri ‘Monferrato Dolcetto’ 2008
DOC Piedmont $13.95 (134825) 12.8% alcohol
The subtle wisps of aromas include spice box and strawberry. Bistro-styled, straightforward and uncomplicated, this delivers a well-paced stream of racy and lip-smacking tangy flavour with red currant and pomegranate to the fore. It finishes with hints of spice and pie cherry. It’s good to go now with a platter of mixed deli meats and a selection of cheese and olives. (Vic Harradine)
Fontanafredda ‘Coste Rubín’ Barbaresco 2005
DOCG Piedmont $39.95 (500827) 14.0% alcohol
Lilac and black licorice aromas segue a gorgeous array of generously textured flavours from this Nebbiolo red that surge over the palate in waves—dark cherry and cassis with nuances of mocha. Mid weight and deftly balanced, it finishes lengthy with ripe supple tannin and mouth-watering freshness. Beef daube pours well alongside. (Vic Harradine)
Collina dei Lecci ‘Rosso di Montalicino’ 2007
DOC Tuscana $23.95 (135541) 13.5% alcohol
Although it begins with a delicate nose of spice and berry fruit, it really delivers in the mouth with a balanced and silky-smooth wash of flavour—red and dark berry, pie cherry and black plum. It’s mid weight and nicely structured with just the right amount of tannin and acidity. The finish layers on toasty notes and espresso roast. This pairs nicely with elk or venison tenderloins grilled rare. (Vic Harradine)
Sassicaia 2006
DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia $184.95 (480533) 13.5% alcohol
Anxiously awaited each vintage by collectors and connoisseurs, this won’t disappoint either. Toast, leather and cigar box on the nose, this washes over the palate with mouth-watering succulent and well-balanced flavours including cassis, dark bittersweet chocolate, juicy black Bing cherry and black currant. It’s full bodied and generously textured finishing with a monumental surge of dark ripe fruit wrapped in a firm tannin grip. Drink 2015 to 2025 after controlled and careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)
Tedeschi ‘Capitel dei Nicalò’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (984997) 13.0% alcohol
‘Appassimento Breve’ on the label indicates a short one-month drying time for the fruit before pressing. The aromas here are earthy and pungent with dried herbs and spice predominant. Tangy flavours of spiced cranberry, strawberry and cranberry are persistent throughout with drying tannin making an appearance on the finish. Penne pasta in a tomato-based sauce or lasagna would partner well. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
In 1890, Victoria produced over half of Australia’s wine—post-phylloxera they withered to 5%. Phoenix-like, they’ve risen from the ashes. Read more... Blackjack ‘Block 6’ Shiraz 2004
Bendigo, Victoria $33.95 (77842) 14.0% alcohol
Their flagship red, this opens with lifted aromas of eucalyptus, dark berry fruit and earthy tones. It’s mid weight and nicely textured, dealing out a persistent stream of ripe luscious lip-smacking fruit flavour with mulberry, black plum and spiced cherry to the fore. The American and French oak have been seamlessly integrated and the finish is lengthy and balanced. You hold the winning pair when poured with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Blackjack Shiraz 2004
Bendigo, Victoria $28.95 (095612) 14.0% alcohol
From relatively cool-climate Victoria, this delivers Aussie Shiraz with complexity and touches of elegance. Rich, complex and succulent flavour reigns supreme with brambly berry, exotic spice, ripe juicy black cherry and peppery notes mingling effortlessly with seamlessly integrated oak and fine-grained tannin. It finishes perfectly balanced, lengthy and luxurious with notes of spice cake and dark bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)
Cave Spring Cellars Chenin Blanc ‘Sparkling - Extra Dry’ 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (128363) 11.0% alcohol
Elegant, unique and expressive this ‘traditional method’ sparkler—the second fermentation was in the bottle—is stunning. Opening with perfumed fragrance of orange rind and exotic spice, the fine-beaded bubbles in the glass explode on the palate with a lovely attack of clean, crisp and refreshing peel marmalade and racy lemon flavour. A classy present for over the holidays; gift one, keep two for yourself. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Italy
Barone Ricasoli ‘Brolio’ Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (3962) 13.5% alcohol
A step up from most in this price range, you’ll enjoy aromas of cherry, lilac and earthy tones on the expressive nose. There’s excellent purity of fruit with dark succulent Bing cherry, black licorice and spiced black plum flavours galore. It’s mid weight, beautifully textured and sports a well-balanced, fruity and lingering aftertaste. Whether you see it in stores or catch it on a restaurant wine list, give it a try. (Vic Harradine)
Masi ‘Campofiorin’ 2006
IGT Rosso de Veronese $17.45 (155051) 13% alcohol
From a wonderful vintage, this double-fermented blend opens with a burst of dark berry fruit and spice box aromas. There’s a balanced, rich and compelling surge of flavour in the mouth with mushroom, black juicy cherry and blueberry to the fore. It dishes out a lovely texture, perfectly integrated oak, deft balance and a lingering finish underpinned by ripe supple tannin for structure. (Vic Harradine)
Masi ‘Costasera Amarone Classico’ 2006
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $37.35 (317057) 15.0% alcohol
This begins with a quiet nose of crushed dark fruit and hints of floral notes. Restrained and purposeful, it delivers a steady wash of racy flavour with ripe strawberry, cranberry and pomegranate predominant. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting a fruity finish laced with dusty tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours then pair with braised veal shanks. (Vic Harradine)
Mezzacorona ‘Reserva’ Pinot Grigio 2007
DOC Trentino $15.95 (32714) 13% alcohol
Hand-picked fruit that saw some oak before bottling is the basis for this medium-weight nicely textured white. Deep yellow in the glass, the aromas of floral and peach segue crisp and racy flavours of apple, pear and pineapple on the palate while the zesty finish layers on grapefruit rind and a hint of spice. Pair with pasta in creamy mushroom sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Secco-Bertani Ripasso 2006
DOC Valpolicella Valpantena $16.80 (12443) 13.0%
Firm and focused, this lives up to its breeding—a century and a half of winemaking expertise, prime selection of estate-owned fruit, 18 months in oak. The alluring nose is full of spice and cherry aromas while the palate is blessed with a persistent stream of balanced fruit flavour—pie cherry, sweet ripe mulberry and racy red currant. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a lingering, dry, slightly tannic finish of tangy cranberry and a tell-tale Ripasso bite. This pairs perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Cave Spring Cellars Gamay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (228569) 12.5% alcohol
Earthy and red cherry aromas waft off the subtle nose of this food-friendly gem. There are oodles of pie cherry, spiced black currant and racy cranberry flavours that course over the palate and through the mouth-watering finish. Light on its feet and nicely textured, it adds hints of raspberry on the zesty finish. Pour slightly chilled with meat-laden pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham Family Estate Riesling Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $49.95 375 mL (430561) 9.5% alcohol
Tantalizing aromas of spiced Granny Smith apple, mineral notes and candied citrus waft from the glass of this value-packed beauty—only $44.95 from November 8-28. It’s full bodied and chockfull of texture with rich and concentrated flavour—honeyed pear, sweet tropical fruit and spice-infused white peach delivered through the lingering textured finish. One of life’s few affordable luxuries one can serve or gift. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal
Fonseca ‘Bin 27 Fine Reserve’ Port Non-vintage
DOC Porto $16.95 (156877) 20% alcohol
Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Fonseca ‘White Port’ Non-vintage
DOC Porto $13.75 (276816) 20% alcohol
Talk about value—1 ½ ounces of Port mixed with an equal amount of club soda over ice, and you’ve the ingredients for 17 welcoming drinks at your next gathering. Golden yellow in the glass, the aromas and flavours are almonds, sweet honeyed pear and caramel apple. Nicely balanced, it’s a refreshing spritzer—flavourful, festive and downright delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Spain
Torres ‘Coronas’ Tempranillo 2006
DO Catalunya $13.25 (29728) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lilac, crushed dark berry and red licorice open this value-packed red—the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. Ripe succulent fruit flavours wash over the palate of this medium bodied gem with mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and spiced black currant predominant. This is smooth as satin and über approachable with a lengthy finish that’s balanced, warm and fruity. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $15.95 12.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of citrus, floral notes and hints of mineral bolt from the glass of this gorgeously sculpted Riesling. Riveting lip-smacking flavours of key lime, orange rind and white grapefruit shower the palate and are carried through the mouth-watering finish along a spine of delectable acidity. It’s mid weight with a nice texture and a lingering balanced refreshing finish. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Cave Spring. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00 13.5% alcohol
Opening with an alluring nose, there are riveting aromas of aromatic bitters, spiced plum compote and dark berry fruit bolting from the glass. Flavours of juicy Bing cherry and cassis coat the palate mingling with racy Montmorency cherry on the balanced and memorable finish. The judicious use of oak, silky smooth texture and ripe fine-grained tannin all coalesce to fashion this delightful red. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $60.00 375 mL 11.5% alcohol
Pillitteri winemaster, Dr. Marc Bradshaw, continues his mastery with icewine. Exotic spice, floral and red licorice aromas give way to lip-smacking and fully textured flavours of cassis, sweet black raspberry and succulent black currant. The lingering and luxurious finish sits well in the mouth exuding excellent balance, good structure and restraint allowing each sip to be as good, even better, than the one preceding. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.00 200 mL 12.0% alcohol
Expressive and pristine, this delivers a finely tuned mouthful of sweet, ripe and unctuous fruit flavours that glide along and are deftly balanced by a laser-like spine of acidity. Aromas of ripe yellow peach, citrus zest and hints of ginger burst from the glass. The palate is treated to a well-sculpted gusher of sweet ripe tree fruit flavours—nectarine and apple—followed by tropical fruit with mango and ripe pineapple. It’s another triumph for Pillitteri to be enjoyed as, not with, dessert. Order by the case direct for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 375 mL 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of rosewater, floral notes and sprigs of herb and spice fill the air. Palate-coating flavours of lemon chiffon pie, zingy racy lime and mixed spice mingle with a gorgeous Gewürzt bite on the lengthy luxurious aftertaste. This sports a lovely mouth feel and doesn’t need a partner for dessert, drinking beautifully on its own. That said, it pairs perfectly with creamy aged Stilton. A stunning wine for pouring or gifting—order by the case direct for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 375 mL 11.5% alcohol
Expressive and expansive aromas expose key lime pie, lychee and loads of spiced marzipan. There’s excellent tang on the palate with a riveting gust of lemon zest and ripe pineapple flavour surging through the lingering mouth-watering finish. It’s deftly balanced and well structured, just the wine for gifting or pairing with fruit flan. Order by the case direct for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘Meritage’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromatic and perfumed on the nose; look for cinnamon-spiced cranberry and mixed field berry. Palate-coating flavours—dark chocolate-dipped cherry, spice and black Damson plum—form a persistent stream through the lengthy finish. It’s mid weight, silky textured and well balanced with a lingering fruity finish and dusty tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring alongside grilled rib eye, done rare to medium rare. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)
Reif Estate Winery ‘Meritage’ 2007
VQA Niagara River $26.95 13.0% alcohol
Enticing aromas of exotic spice, black currant and mocha roll off the glass of this red blend—47% Merlot 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. There’s a lovely array of ripe fruit on the mid palate with cherry, blueberry and mixed berry fruit predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with dry dusty tannin and hints of tobacco leaf on the finish. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour alongside herb-rubbed lamb tenderloins. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Reif Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Reif Estate Winery Vidal Icewine 2007
VQA Niagara River $46.95 375 mL 10.5% alcohol
This pours 18K yellow gold in the glass with lifted alluring aromas of toffee, spice cake and treacle. From 25-year-old vines, this delivers a stunning mouthful of flavour with spiced pear, honeyed mango and spice-infused apfelkuchen to the fore. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured delivering a monumental aftertaste that’s balanced and mouth-watering delicious. Well priced to pour or gift—order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Reif Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Strewn Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Graphite, camphor and mint on the nose this delicately balanced red offers up sweet ripe cherry and mixed red berry fruit galore on the palate. There’s a firm and moderating spine of acidity that runs through the dry minty finish. It’s medium bodied with good texture underpinned by grainy tannin. Suggest you aerate/decant for two hours then pair with grilled strip loin. Order for by the case for daily office or home delivery from Strewn. (Vic Harradine)
Strewn ‘Terroir – Strewn Three’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.00 13.0% alcohol
A blend of 42% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, this opens with a subtle nose of toasty notes and spice. This is a superbly integrated blend offering ample weight and generous texture. There’s a surge of expressive ripe tangy fruit on the palate with cranberry, black currant and spiced red currant to the fore. There are perceptible, but acceptable tannin along with hints of mint and underbrush on the fruit-filled finish. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Strewn. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Icewine Cabernets 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 200 mL 10.5% alcohol
Perfumed and expressive aromas of cinnamon-infused cranberry and minty cherry waft from this sweet and creamy-textured blend—53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Cabernet Franc. Flavours of kirsch liqueur and über ripe cherry coat the palate and are consistent through the flavourful, rich and concentrated finish. Serve chilled on its own as dessert or pair with warm cherry clafoutie—it’s the perfect bottle for two persons. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse ‘Select Late Harvest- Barrel Aged – Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $20.00 200 mL 11.5% alcohol
Unique and stunning; it’s barrel fermented and barrel aged, single vineyard and farmed bio-dynamically—awaiting final certification. Ripe apple, Bosc pear and spiced Mirabelle plum aromas segue spice-infused flavours of vanilla, apple pie filling and honeyed poached pear on this gorgeously textured gem. It’s deftly balanced and dishes out a lengthy balanced aftertaste. It’s for special people on your holiday gift list. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Icewine Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $35.00 200 mL 11.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lychee, ginger-infused apple and exotic spice introduce an elegant and restrained wash of nectar-like flavours—candied pear, succulent tropical fruit, and gingerbread. These flavours ride a mouth-watering wave of moderating acidity throughout the balanced and luxurious finish—the second and third sips continue to leave you wishing for more. It’s defty balanced and delivers a nicely textured mouth feel. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers,
Vic.
Rating System
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
| Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |