October 10, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from Italy. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Canadian whites and reds – in the Main Release—well rated, well priced.
- Check out Chile – both red and white are good bang for the buck
- New in the LCBO – you’ll find many value-driven wines there
Note that all LCBO retail stores are closed Thanksgiving, Monday, October 12; some Agency stores (in rural areas) will be open—check the one(s) in your area.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
Italy Feature
Malgrà Fornace di Cerreto Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2006
DOC Barbera d’Asti $17.95 (004275) 13.5% alcohol
Offering good value, it earned its final half star on price. Fruit-packed and a tad rustic, look for aromas of tar, anise and earthy notes as well as flavour galore with blueberry, bramble berry and pomegranate predominant. There’s good balance in this mid-weight and nicely structured Barbera along with a lovely spine of acidity carrying through the dry mouth-watering aftertaste. This is paired perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Le Arche Ripasso Valpolicella 2007
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (095828) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, spice and dark field berry aromas segue flavours of dark raisin, currant and pie cherry that glide along the satin-smooth texture in this medium-bodied red. It’s very well-sculpted with balance and poise its signature. There’s a lingering finish that’s fruit-forward with a firm tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour alongside a mound of smoked and grilled dry-rubbed back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Tenuta di Capraia Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (135277) 13.5% alcohol
‘Classico’ marks this as from the premium sub-area of Chianti—the only one allowed the highest classification of DOCG—there are seven other sub-areas. This wine is complex and involved with aromas of tobacco leaf, sweet vanilla plus mixed and savoury herb and spice with wisps of leather. Flavours of black Bing cherry and ripe cranberry abound on the palate and the lengthy dry finish. It also layers on an herbaceous tang. It pairs well with herb-rubbed grilled lamb tenderloins. (Vic Harradine)
Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $24.95 (963199) 14.5% alcohol
Character and structure elevate this above the crowd. Exotic spice, fennel and mocha aromas waft from the glass of this mid-weight nicely textured blend. A mouthful of flavour bathes the palate with dark juicy berry fruit and ripe succulent black currant to the fore. The balanced finish lingers luxuriously intermingling with ripe fine-grained tannin. Good to sip now with a two-hour aeration/decant or poured with elk or venison tenderloin grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto 2006
IGT Toscana $29.95 (072306) 375mL $59.95 (951210) 750 mL 14.5% alcohol
There’s lots going on with this Tuscan Bordeaux blend as involved and complex aromas of rosewood, dried berry fruit and sprigs of savoury herb and spice begin the show. The flavours—mulberry, blueberry and cassis—stream through the lengthy finish carried along on a generous mouth feel. It’s medium bodied and sports an aftertaste that finishes with a hit of herbaceous-ness. Pour with a heaping plate of osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Fortified Wine
Graham’s ‘Six Grapes’ Reserve Port
DOC Porto $22.95 (208405) 20.0% alcohol
Here’s a well-priced Port delivering a rich concentrated persistent stream of flavour—spice cake, black raspberry, kirsch liqueur and oodles of sweet black juicy cherry. It’s full-bodied and creamy textured dishing out a finish of spice-infused chocolate-dipped cherry flavour. This matches up well with dark chocolate or aged hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: White Wine
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (068015) 13.5% alcohol
Racy, lively and expressive, it’s chockfull full of flavour. Aromas of tree fruit—apple, pear and peach—interweave with spice and mineral notes. The zesty flavours include ripe lemon, white grapefruit and crisp Granny Smith apple. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with a mouth-watering lip-smacking finish. Pair with pan-seared fresh water fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (586347) 13.0% alcohol
Nudging five stars and oozing charm and elegance; this is deftly balanced and flavourful. Alluring aromas of fresh-baked brioche and tropical fruit waft from this medium-bodied creamy-textured gem. Vanilla, spice-infused citrus, pineapple and green apple flavours wash over the palate in wave after delectable wave. The clean refreshing finish lingers—you shouldn’t as this won’t stay long on the shelf, especially if you shop where I do. (Vic Harradine)
Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $27.95 (585745) 13.5% alcohol
Honeyed pear and apple along with spice box aromas open this mid-weight generous-textured Gris. Oodles of flavours form a persistent stream—ripe pineapple, succulent nectarine and sweet yellow plum amongst them. The long balanced aftertaste is crisp, refreshing and redolent of citrus and spiced Mirabelle plum. Pair with devils on horseback—herbed, grilled oysters wrapped in bacon. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: Red Wine
Featherstone Estate Winery Merlot 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (131540) 13.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Perfumed with exotic spice, red licorice and field berry aromas it bathes the palate with well-sculpted luscious flavours. Expect succulent cherry, black currant and black plum compote flavours persisting throughout the balanced lengthy and fruit-driven finish. Medium bodied and creamy smooth; this deserves your attention. It’s divine sipped on its own and food friendly—roast pork stuffed with dried cranberries, leg of lamb with wine-reduction sauce or pour with your Thanksgiving bird and all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham Gamay 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $14.95 (291112)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) The Don Rickles of the wine world, Gamay commands little respect, but it’s an unfair knock, especially in Niagara, where good, even very good Gamay is produced. Earthy, gamey and spice box on the nose, you’ll discover lots going on in this medium-textured, medium-bodied red. Look for flavours of sweet ripe berry fruit supported by perceptible tannin—adds structure, with moderating acidity giving balance. A bistro-styled red, serve with burgers or pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Sumac Ridge ‘Black Sage Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (143784) 13.5% alcohol
This is earthy, black currant and anise on the nose, while the palate’s treated to a shower of herbed and spiced flavours with cassis, bramble berry, pie cherry and toasty oak to the fore. It’s supple on the palate with a gentle underpinning of ripe fine-grained tannin and a focused stream of moderating acidity. It finishes lengthy and slightly herbaceous. Pair with herb-encrusted grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
Malivoire ‘Ladybug’ Rosé 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (559088) 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Predominantly Cabernet Franc plus Gamay and Pinot Noir, it’s flavour filled and well structured. Spice and red berry fruit on the nose—raspberry and strawberry—there’s a rush of refreshing flavour with red currant and cherry clafoutie to the fore. It’s medium bodied and generously textured. The finish is lengthy, crisp and lip-smacking good pairing perfectly with creamy cheese—brie, camembert—or lightly herbed chicken. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Clayhouse ‘Adobe White’ 2008
Central Coast, California $16.95 (137059) 13.0% alcohol
Fruit driven and nicely balanced, this multi-variety blend opens with a lifted nose of spice-infused tree fruit—pear, peach and nectarine with hints of musk melon. The palate’s treated to gusher of flavour with ripe pineapple, lemon-lime citrus and sweet mango predominant. It’s medium bodied and generously textured dishing out a lip-smacking refreshing finish. Pair with all manner of lightly herbed and spiced chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $59.95 (346304) 14.3% alcohol
Quiet aromas of toast, mocha and tree fruit segue a delectable mouthful of flavour that’s delivered with restraint and elegance—lemon chiffon pie, crisp green apple and spiced peach and yellow plum. It’s mid weight while the texture is silky smooth and the deftly balanced lengthy finish is redolent of citrus-infused apple torte – simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Sonoma County $17.95 (971754) 13.5% alcohol
This lands somewhere between the crispness of New Zealand and the plush fruit flavours of California, Hawaii perhaps? It’s smooth and mellow throughout. Heady aromas of tropical fruit and herbaceous notes are followed by a steady wave of balanced flavour—ripe citrus, tropical fruit and spice-infused green apple. It finishes crisp and refreshing with nuances of savoury herb and spice. Serve at your next luau, or party, with crispy coconut shrimp. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Beringer ‘Clear Lake’ Zinfandel 2006
Clear Lake, Lake County $19.95 (953596) 14.5% alcohol
Dark, rich and succulent this is well-priced for patient Zin-lovers, reaching its zenith 2011 to 2014—it’ll also jump up a notch in the rating. Mid weight and fairly textured, this delivers aromas and flavours of boysenberry jam, spice-infused bramble berry and juicy succulent black cherry. It finishes particularly well balanced with sweet cherry clafoutie flavour and lip-smacking acidity for balance. It’s wrapped in a firm tannin structure for now. (Vic Harradine)
Candor ‘Lot 1’ Merlot
California $18.95 (135392) 14.5% alcohol
Offering good purity of fruit and flavour, it opens with heady aromas of mixed spice, espresso roast and dark berry fruit. There’s medium weight with loads of texture as it ladles out a gusher of flavour with black currant, spiced black Damson plum and dark field berry predominant. The finish is crisp and dry, balanced and mouth-watering good. It’s a perfect dance partner with medium-well grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $17.95 (135285) 13.5% alcohol
It opens with a quiet nose—aromas of exotic spice and notes of leather—then shifts into gear on the palate with waves of spice and fruit-driven flavour—black raspberry, dark spiced fruitcake and oodles of succulent Bing cherry. It’s nearly full bodied with a satiny-smooth texture and ripe integrated tannin. It finishes nicely balanced and fruit-forward. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Sonoma County $22.95 (226944) 13.8% alcohol
Earthy, toasty with hints of black licorice on the nose, this delivers a lovely rendition of lip-smacking Cab. Cassis, ripe mulberry and black plum compote on the mid palate, it finishes in a blaze of glory with chocolate-dipped cherry and red currant flavours. It’s mid weight, smoothly textured with well-integrated ripe tannin. Delicious on its own, it also pours well alongside herb- and garlic-rubbed grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Toasted Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
North Coast $19.95 (686824) 13.5% alcohol
Deftly integrated oak, impeccable balance and oodles of flavour mark this worthy of your attention. Expect a wash of flavour to coat your palate with spice, espresso roast plus a bowlful of cassis and succulent black cherry. It persists through the lengthy well-balanced finish mingling with wisps of vanilla and tarry notes. Well paced, well priced and well... delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: White Wine
Santa Rita ‘Medalla Real’ Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $17.95 (303628) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance is tipped in your favour. Hedonistic and well sculpted, this will silence the ABC—anything but Chardonnay—crowd; pick up a few. Aromas and flavours abound with ripe pineapple, crisp apple, sweet nectarine, citrus, toasty notes and spiced yellow plum among them. It’s full-bodied, brimming with texture and dishes out a lingering crisp and refreshing finish. Delightful on its own, it’s also a perfect choice to go with your Thanksgiving bird. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Aconcagua Valley $17.95 (606764) 14.5% alcohol
One of Chile’s go-to Cabs for good value, this gets out of the gate with aromas of cedar, cinnamon and berry fruit. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and flavour-packed—cassis, sweet rich dark berry fruit and wisps of oak and fennel. The lengthy balanced finish doles out more of the same with a healthy whack of firm tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside medium-rare grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Carmenère 2007
Rapel Valley $14.95 (640888) 14.0% alcohol
One of the better value wines in this release, it’s certainly worth a multiple purchase before it disappears. There are loads of flavour and richness with cassis, ripe mulberry and dark ripe black cherry flavour interwoven with lip-smacking racy pie cherry and zesty red currant for balance. Full bodied, nicely textured and sporting a balanced lengthy finish, it matches well with burgers, pizza and grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Bishop by Ben Glaetzer Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (627869) 15.0% alcohol
A rich, luscious and concentrated cellar dweller, it oozes sweet dark fruit and firm tannin. Spice box, floral notes and deep rich dark fruit on the nose, it gushes over the palate in a tsunami wave of flavour—kirsch liqueur, dark black plum and mulberry. It’s a behemoth of red wine, full-bodied and hugely textured with a finish that just doesn’t quit. Drink 2012 to 2018 alongside a rich stew. (Vic Harradine)
Shingleback Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (057844) 14.5% alcohol
An outstanding producer, Shingleback has gone from strength to strength since winning the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy three years back. This exudes alluring aromas of lilac, exotic spice and dark field berry fruit as segue to a balanced and steady stream of palate-coating flavour—tarry dark field berry, spiced chocolate-covered cherry and black plum. It’s balanced and creamy smooth dishing out a fruit-forward finish, not over-blown or jammy. (Vic Harradine)
Tait ‘Basket Pressed’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $49.95 (138339) 16.3% alcohol
Gamey and berry fruit on the nose, this teeth-stainer coats the palate and senses with thick rich dark berry fruit flavours mingling with black licorice, espresso roast and toasty oak. It’s full bodied, creamy smooth and ladles out more of the same on the rich concentrated fruity finish—not for the faint of heart. Aerate/decant for three hours or drink 2011 to 2015. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Spy Valley Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (057737) 13.0% alcohol
Straightforward and well paced, this delivers a lovely set of aromas with citrus, floral and vanilla mingling with toast and hints of vanilla. The steady flavours flow smoothly throughout with ripe pear, white grapefruit and lemon pie filling predominant. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured. Take-out supermarket rotisserie chicken pairs well. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Sileni ‘The Plateau’ Pinot Noir 2008
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (132142) 13.5% alcohol
An alluring nose of smoked bacon, lilac, toast and berry fruit segue a delicious imbibing experience. There are focused and structured cherry, blueberry and black berry flavours that stream over the palate and the lengthy balanced lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured delivering a good spine of acidity throughout. Incredibly versatile with food—from pan-seared salmon to smoked duck breast—it’s a good under $20 Pinot. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Domaine Bonnard Sancerre 2008
AOC Sancerre $22.95 (140525) 12.5% alcohol
Pungent, racy and zesty, you’ll discover aromas and flavours of gooseberry, passion fruit and tropical fruit that travel along a stream of citrussy acidity. It’s mid weight with a nice texture and shells out a clean crisp refreshing finish. Speaking of shells, give this a go with a huge bowl of mussels steamed in a white wine and herb broth. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Thébot 2005
AOC Bordeaux $16.95 (138792) 13.0% alcohol
With less than 30 acres, mostly Merlot, this petit Château delivers a hard-to-beat price for Bordeaux, and it’s an ’05 to boot, or Thébot. Toasty oak, dark berry fruit and charred aromas introduce this medium-bodied nicely textured red blend. There’s good fruit—cherry and black berry with hints of those charred notes in the flavour, as well. It finishes with ripe supple tannin mingling with dark berry and spiced plum. (Vic Harradine)
Château Tour St. Joseph 2005
AOC Haut-Médoc $23.95 (138701) 13.0% alcohol
Tar, licorice and oak on the nose, the palate’s treated to sweet and succulent mixed berry fruit interwoven with firm unresolved tannin and moderating acidity. It’s mid weight, fairly textured with a finish that’s tannic and a bit herbaceous. Better after a two-hour aeration/decant poured alongside grilled red meat done rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Germany: White Wine
Studert-Prüm Riesling Spätlese 2004
QmP, Wehlener Sonnenuhr $23.95 (140756) 8.0% alcohol
Opening with a racy nose of sharp spice, citrus and mineral notes, this sweet and tang, yin and yang, off-dry Riesling provides the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine. It’s mid weight and fully textured with ripe pineapple, yellow peach and juicy nectarine mixing with wonderful acidity on the well-balanced, yet crisp refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Terra d’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616) 14.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Rich, luscious and smooth, this opens with an involved nose of leather, espresso roast and dark and dried berry fruit. The tangy fruit flavours include, cranberry and black currant melding nicely with hints of mocha and tobacco leaf. The lingering and balanced finish layers on a delicious dollop of bramble berry and a bare hint of tannin. Coq au vin or traditional cassoulet would provide stellar table companions. (Vic Harradine)
Cantine Due Palme Primitivo 2005
IGT Salento $15.95 (658351)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Genetically aligned with Zinfandel, this Primitivo displays many characteristics of Zin—minus the puns, Zin-fully good et al. Round n' ready to drink, this is fruity and jammy. There are aromas of spice and dark sweet fruit and this follows through to the palate with a gusher of sweet, juicy raspberry jam flavour. It's medium bodied and silky textured. This would pair well with a spicy offering, say chili con carne or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Aliança Particular 2006
DOC Dão $13.95 (527473) 14.0% alcohol
Bistro-styled and value-priced, you’ll find it a pretty nice mouthful of sweet and succulent dark ripe berry fruit that’s nicely balanced with a firm tannin underpinning. There’s good acidity and loads of spice from the opening sip to the lengthy finish. Pour this alongside red wine-marinated grilled chouriço, a Portuguese smoked sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Herdade do Esporão ‘Reserve Red’ 2006
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $24.95 (606590) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a gorgeous blend—Trincadeira, Aragonês (a.k.a.Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet—flirting with 5 stars; it’s an oft-overlooked wine bargain in the LCBO. It’s rich, powerful and brimming with aromas and flavours of boysenberry, cassis and succulent Bing cherry. The tannin is ripe and supple providing solid structure for this impeccably balanced gem. The finish truly lingers with a luxurious display of ripe fruit and balancing acidity. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in selected stores. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez ‘Tinto Pesquera Crianza’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $29.95 (341461) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) The complex perfumed nose opens with tar, floral and spice aromas as segue to a gorgeous mouthful of rich palate-drenching flavours—black currant, succulent red cherry and spiced black Damson plum—that mingle with ripe tannin. It’s mid weight and fully textured with18 months in new American oak seamlessly integrated. Impeccably balanced and well structured, the finish layers on earthy notes and dark sweet berry fruit. Aerate/decant for two hours and drink now to 2018. Incredible value, you’ll want a bottle or two. (Vic Harradine)
Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez ‘Tinto Pesquera Reserva’ 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $47.95 (323345) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Mineral, spice and leather on the nose, there are tightly focused flavours of pie cherry, ripe boysenberry and red currant that form a persistent stream throughout. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and shows deft balance and good structure. There are glorious flavours lurking under the firm tannin structure—dark Belgian chocolate and ripe black juicy Bing cherry and good moderating acidity. It needs time, patience and careful cellaring allowing it to evolve into something special. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Miguel Torres ‘Mas La Plana’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Penedès $44.95 (129676) 14.0% alcohol
Spanish wine-lovers and collectors anxiously await the release of this classy red. The expressive nose emits exotic aromas of rosewood, spice, earthiness and toasty oak. There’s an amalgam of rich ripe succulent fruit—bramble berry and black currant—mingling with moderating red berry fruit—cranberry and pomegranate. It’s medium weight and fairly textured with a gloriously well-balanced and flavour-packed finish layering on ripe supple tannin, espresso roast and spice-infused red cherry. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
May 15, 2010
Viña Cono Sur ‘Vision’ Pinot Noir 2008
DO Colchagua Valley $16.95 (689992) 14.0% alcohol
Primarily single-vineyard sourced, the 41-year-old Pinot Noir vines are amongst the oldest in Chile. The meagre hand-harvested yield was limited—4 tonne per ha. Blackberry fruit, dried currant and savoury herb aromas segue a persistent offering of complex flavours—more blackberry, spice-infused dark succulent cherry, espresso roast and wisps of oak. Mid weight, generously textured and perfectly balanced, the lingering finish dishes out lip-smacking fruit flavour within a ripe supple tannin structure—delectable! (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Viña Cono Sur ‘Limited Edition 20 Barrels’ Pinot Noir 2007
DO Casablanca Valley $27.95 (684530) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, robust and brimming with purity of fruit and complexity, this offers aromas and flavours of bramble berry, cassis and spiced black Damson plum. Hand picked, hand sorted, carbonic maceration then foot trodden, it’s a carefully honed jewel. This is medium bodied, generously textured and finely balanced with a long finish of juicy black Bing cherry and the sweet smell of jasmine wrapped in a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant for two hours before pouring alongside classic duck à l’orange. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Australia
Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa Valley $19.95 (91686) 14.0% alcohol
There are expressive and expansive aromas galore—dark spiced berry fruit, toast, mint and hints of tar. Medium to full bodied and nicely textured, it rolls over the palate in waves with succulent chocolate-covered cherry and spiced-infused cassis flavours. It’s deftly balanced with well-integrated oak, ripe tannin and a lip-smacking long aftertaste. King Peter of the Barossa does it again—give it a go with grilled and garlicky lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)
California
Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
California $13.95 (48611) 13.0% alcohol
It’s been 3 decades since Mondavi first launched the now-popular Woodbridge banner. This opens with complex aromas of black berry fruit, cola and mixed spice aromas. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured. The flavours are an amalgam of cassis, mocha and dark berry fruit that ride a solid underpinning of firm tannin framed with very good moderating acidity. It finishes fruit forward and well balanced making this value-packed red an easy pairing with grilled red meat from burgers to steak. (Vic Harradine)
Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
California $11.95 750 mL (40501) $20.95 1500 mL (258665) 13.0% alcohol
There’s good value here, earning its final ½ star because of it. You’ll be treated to floral and tropical fruit aromas on the nose and ripe fruit flavours of pineapple, yellow peach and lemon pie filling on the palate. It’s medium weight and generously textured sporting a crisp clean finish of citrus and nuances of yellow plum. This is just the wine to pair up with herbed and roasted chicken or pan-seared trout. (Vic Harradine)
Chile
Quick! What do bicycles, gaggles of geese and burritos have in common? Read more... Viña Cono Sur Merlot 2008
DO Central Valley $9.95 (457176) 13.5% alcohol
Toasted oak, black currant and dark chocolate on the nose, there’s a tangy wash of racy pie cherry and black Damson plum on the palate. It’s medium in body and texture and delivers a finish with herbaceous hints and slightly grainy tannin. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese sprinkled with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2008
DO Central Valley $10.95 (341602) 13.5% alcohol
Sourced, equally, from 3 valleys—Casablanca, Colchagua, Bio Bio—this punches well above the price. Aromas of black currant, spiced black Damson plum and freshly sliced strawberry abound. It delivers a generous mouth feel and incredible balance throughout. Look for bramble berry fruit, cherry and kirsch liqueur flavours on the palate with hints of chocolate interwoven in the fruit-packed lengthy finish. There’s just enough tannin for structure and interest, making it the perfect dance partner with veal medallions or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur Shiraz 2007
DO Colchagua Valley $9.95 (64295) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, cherry and black pepper express themselves freely on the expansive nose of this flavourful red. It’s mid weight nicely textured and well balanced. Ripe cranberry, mulberry and red cherry flavours stream through the drying, firm-tannin finish. Had mine with spicy meat-laden pizza and it worked well. (Vic Harradine)
Italy
Lungarotti ‘Rubesco’ 2006
DOC Umbria $13.95 (41947) 13% alcohol
Three decades a staple at the LCBO, this Sangiovese-based blend showcases spice box and pencil-shaving aromas and a well-balanced array of delectable flavours. There’s a wash of ripe succulent cherry and blueberry that bathes the palate and extends through the spice-driven lengthy finish. Mid weight and fairly textured, it’s a lovely aperitif or when matched with traditional Italian bistro fare—pizza, pasta in a tomato-based sauce or veal scallopini. (Vic Harradine)
Spain
Bodegas Castaño ‘La Casona’ Monastrell 2007
DO Yecla $8.95 (143743) 13.5% alcohol
Oozing with old world charm and breeding—dry-farmed 60- to 80-year-old vines—and punching well above the price; this is very good value. Heady spice-infused berry and mocha aromas roll off the glass of this medium-bodied nicely textured Monastrell a.k.a. Mourvèdre. Racy red cherry, blueberry and succulent dark berry fruit coat the palate transitioning to pie cherry and spiced black plum flavours on the lengthy well-balanced finish. Delicious sipped on its own, with each succeeding glass as good or better than the one before, this is also food-friendly. Try pasta in a tomato-based sauce or a soft creamy cheese. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Sandbanks Estate Winery ‘Foch Reserve’ 2007
VQA Ontario $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Expressive and alluring aromas—espresso roast, dark mixed berry fruit and savoury spice roll off the glass of this rich and ripe well-priced red. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a rip-roaring gusher of flavour—ripe sweet mulberry, kirsch liqueur along with savoury herb and spice on the finish. It finishes lengthy and full flavoured. Give it a go with lamb tenderloins rubbed in rosemary and garlic. Order direct by the mixed case of 6 or 12 from Sandbanks. (Vic Harradine)
Sandbanks Estate Winery Riesling 2008
VQA Ontario $14.95 (139022) 11.8% alcohol
Mineral, floral and ripe citrus aromas on the nose introduce this mid-weight nicely textured Riesling. It dishes out a lovely mouthful of tangy flavour with key lime pie, pineapple and red currant to the fore. It’s carried along smoothly on a moderating and nicely balanced spine of acidity that persists throughout the zesty finish. This pairs perfectly with spicy Asian cuisine. It’s available in select LCBO stores. Order by the mixed case of 6 or 12 direct from Sandbanks. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic
Rating System
 | Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
 | Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |