September 26, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from Napa Valley, California. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Two classy Aussie reds – 4½ stars and around $20.
- This is a bargain – as Sauvignon Blanc creeps up and over the $20. mark, there’s one from Chile after the Main Release in the New in the LCBO section for $10.45
- New in Ontario wineries – in the final section after the Main Release you’ll find a clutch of great wines
- Finding Waldo – a red Bordeaux with 4½ stars for under $15.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
Napa Valley, California Feature
Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $22.95 (684399) 14.5% alcohol
Mixed spice box and exotic floral notes segue a mid-weight nicely textured stream of black raspberry, ripe mulberry and dark juicy cherry flavour underpinned by a firm structure of grainy tannin. The flavours replay on the lengthy well-balanced finish. Drinking well 2012 to 2017, you could pour it now after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside a strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Grgich Hills ‘Estate Grown’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $79.95 (071407) 14.7% alcohol
This opens with an involved and rich nose of dark tar-infused cherry and sprigs of savoury spice and herbs. It’s full bodied and deftly balanced with hints of seamlessly integrated oak. Flavours of black Bing cherry and cassis dominate the lingering luxurious finish. If the budget allows, don’t pass this up; it nudges 5 stars. Decant/aerate for 2 hours before pouring—now to 2015. (Vic Harradine)
Joseph Phelps ‘Innisfree’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $36.95 (038125) 13.5% alcohol
Fragrant and expressive, the nose blossoms forth with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black succulent cherry with hints of tar and spiced black plum. Look for rich and concentrated flavours of black currant, spiced bramble berry with nuances of tobacco. Medium bodied and generously textured, it dishes out a lengthy flavour-packed finish of spice, cassis and fine-grained tannin. Punching well above the price it’s tough to pass up. Drink 2011 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $21.95 (135145) 14.5% alcohol
There are focused aromas and flavours—pie cherry, racy pomegranate and black Damson plum—persisting throughout. It’s mid weight, fairly textured delivering a solid spine of acidity and a firm structure of perceptible tannin. Give this a couple of years then pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $24.95 (025122) 13.3% alcohol
Smoothly textured and bursting with flavour, aromas of minty cherry and exotic spice roll of this medium to full-bodied red. Well-sculpted flavours—ripe mulberry, kirsch liqueur and black currant—bathe the palate. The long succulent finish is well balanced and layers on nuances of espresso roast. Pair with a mess of smoked barbecued back ribs smothered in spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Irony Chardonnay 2007
Napa Valley $19.95 (027409) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice, vanilla and floral notes waft form the glass. Full of flavour, this washes over the palate in creamy-textured waves with toffee apple, vanilla and tropical fruit to the fore. Everything is in synch with acidity, fruit and well-integrated oak all in good balance. The finish is mid length, refreshing and clean. Pair with roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Frog’s Leap Merlot 2006
Rutherford, Napa Valley $44.95 (707489) 13.1% alcohol
Port-like and expressive, look for aromas and flavours in the plum pudding, Xmas cake spice and blackberry jam zones. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and sports a lengthy flavourful finish with additional hits of kirsch liqueur and mocha. (Vic Harradine)
Duckhorn ‘Decoy’ 2007
Napa Valley $31.95 (041343) 14.5% alcohol
A lovely red blend—43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot—that’s elegant and well-proportioned in the mouth and on the luxurious finish.
Rich flavours of ripe boysenberry and cassis arrive on mid-weight nicely textured waves framed by seamlessly integrated oak—16 months in mostly seasoned French oak barrels—and moderating acidity. The tannin’s ripe and the drinking is easy. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Port
Fonseca Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
DOC Porto $22.95 (087551) 20.0% alcohol
There are brandied fruit cake, spiced black plum and warm dark berry fruit aromas galore in this dandy LBV. The attack on the palate of sweet succulent full-bore flavours—black raspberry, cherry and currant—is nicely moderated by a solid stream of moderating acidity and supported by a supple tannin structure. Versatile with food, it’ll match well with aged hard cheese or decadent death-by-chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)
Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port
DOC Porto $14.95 (134908) 20% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is still one of the great bargains in the LCBO. An entry level "Ruby" Port that over- delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit fruit flavours. More of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of Parmigiano-Reggiano to match. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: White Wine
Huff Estates ‘first frost’ Vidal 2007
VQA Ontario $19.95 (063842) 500 mL 12.2% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) From grapes hand harvested near the first frost, this delivers a stunning mouthful of sweet, rich, ripe fruit flavours of peach, apricot and tropical fruit. They’re deftly balanced with racy and heady acidity. It offers a medium body and a generous texture while the finish is lingering and luxurious. How can wine taste this good? A portion of the unfermented grape juice was set aside, never fermented and added back later to the now-fermented wine then bottled—a process known as süss-reserve. It’s off-dry and on the mark for a pairing with fruit flans or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $37.00 (143974) 13.5% alcohol
Very impressive with its deft balance and lingering finish, one thinks of elegance with each sip. Apple, pear and buttered toast aromas segue expressive and involved flavours—vanilla, caramel apple, candied citrus peel and tropical fruit. It’s mid weight, fully textured and sports a lengthy dry finish that’s lip-smacking good and redolent of ripe lemon, white peach and pineapple. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089037) 13.0% alcohol
Tawse has quickly established themselves as a go-to winery for those seeking value wine at a variety of price points; this wine showcases why. There’s a roomful of aroma and flavour with toffee apple, ripe yellow peach and tropical fruit predominant. Well balanced, mid weight and generously textured this sports a lengthy finish that layers on mouth-watering citrus and nutty, spice-laden highlights. Paired perfectly with grilled Greek lamb kebabs and tsatsiki. (Vic Harradine)
Jackson-Triggs ‘Okanagan Estate Proprietors’ Grand Reserve’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (643452) 13.9% alcohol
This is rich and expressive with aromas and flavours of ripe apple, pineapple and honeydew melon. It’s well balanced, medium weight with a very generous texture, almost creamy, and sports a lengthy finish that layers on a generous squirt of ripe citrus flavour interwoven with toasty and nutty notes. (Vic Harradine)
Canada: Red Wine
The Foreign Affair Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.00 (127324) 14.5% alcohol
Dark roasted herbs and berry fruit aromas roll off this silky-smooth, Amarone-styled, ready-to-drink Cab. Full of flavour—ripe mulberry and warm sweet cassis—and full bodied, it’s generously textured dishing out a well-balanced lengthy finish wrapped in ripe finely polished tannin. Looking for something equally as rich, give this a go with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Sumac Ridge ‘Black Sage Vineyard’ Merlot 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (593053) 14.0% alcohol
From one of the top vineyard sites in the Okanagan, this offers a nose of smoke, leather and gamey notes before hitting the palate with a persistent gusher of ripe rich flavour with succulent black cherry, black currant and savoury herb predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a lengthy and nicely balanced finish. There’s perceptible tannin that’s made quite acceptable when poured with a grilled beefsteak, rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Ironstone Vineyards ‘Obsession’ Symphony 2007
California $14.95 (355784)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Musky, floral and Turkish delight aromas waft off the extremely fragrant nose of this idiosyncratic gem. It’s medium in weight and texture delivering a mouthful of sweet and ripe flavours with musk melon, fresh grape and spiced lemon to the fore. There’s good moderating acidity on the lingering finish. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it’s a popular go-to wine for pairing with spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Liberty School Zinfandel 2006
California $17.95 (041095) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This producer consistently delivers solid wines at reasonable prices. Here we have excellent aromatic typicity for a California Zinfandel: jammy, sweet fruit aromas and plenty of them. Spread on toast, it’s strawberry jam in a glass. However, it’s very softly structured, and at 13.5% alcohol isn’t nearly as heavy as many other wines in this category. This wine could be enjoyed on its own, or with sweet glazed barbequed ribs. (Mark Tandan)
Argentina: Red Wine
Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (467944) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak and dried berry fruit aromas form the nose of this good-value nicely fashioned bistro-styled red. It’s medium in weight and mouth feel with fruit-forward flavours of kirsch liqueur and black raspberry. It finishes nicely balanced and fruity with a moderating hit of ripe cranberry flavour. (Vic Harradine)
Clos de Los Siete 2006
Mendoza $23.95 (622571)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Those 'in the know' will be lined up for this. Dark and brooding in the glass, it delivers an awesome array of aromas—red cherry, kirsch liqueur, spice box and coffee. The sweet dark fruit flavours of cassis and black briary berry are underpinned by perceptible tannin and moderated by gorgeous acidity. It's medium bodied and sports a lingering and deftly balanced finish. Drink now to 2014 and now that you're in the know, get in line. (Vic Harradine)
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $16.95 (79293) 14.0% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Deep dark purple in the glass, it emits soft aromas of black licorice, tar and berry jam. Sweet ripe fruit flavours explode on the palate with mulberry, boysenberry and cranberry to the fore. The lingering well-balanced finish dishes out cranberry, toasty oak and sour cherry flavours. It’s medium bodied and fully textured, pairing nicely with burgers, pizza and lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Rosedale Wines ‘Cat Amongst the Pigeons - Alley Cat’ Shiraz/Grenache 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (127621) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and dusty in the glass and on the nose, you’ll find aromas of chalky soil, crushed and dried berry fruit and mixed spice. Expressive flavours arrive in generously textured waves from this full-bodied and fruit-forward blend—sweet succulent dark berry fruit, black Bing cherry with nuances of camphor and espresso roast. The finish lingers providing a hedonistic experience. (Vic Harradine)
Grant Burge ‘Miamba’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (725127) 14.5% alcohol
This single-vineyard carefully sculpted red delivers a delectable mouthful of well-integrated oak, supple tannin and sweet succulent fruit flavour—ripe bramble berry, black Damson plum, and cassis. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports an impeccable balance through the lingering luxurious finish. You won’t find many Aussie reds better than this under twenty dollars. (Vic Harradine)
Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz/Grenache 2007
South Australia $20.95 (009225) 14.5% alcohol
From a producer who never seems to miss a step, this rich and robust red blend is brimming with character and flavour. Toasty notes and raspberry aromas segue concentrated flavours of cassis, ripe black cherry, dark berry fruit and mocha delivered on a bed of silky-smooth texture and moderating red currant acidity. The finish is lengthy and lip-smacking good. It’s balanced, boisterous and bloody good. (Vic Harradine)
Richard Hamilton ‘Hut Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (567917) 14.0% alcohol
There are oodles of expansive aromas and flavours in this interesting and tannic Cab. Toasty oak, spice box and dark berry aromas introduce a mouthful of rich ripe succulent flavour—sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate and espresso roast, just to name a few. This is mid weight, nicely textured dishing out a balanced and lengthy finish that layers on hints of tar and spice notes wrapped in a firm tannin structure. Give this a try 2011 to 2015 with grilled pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (677450) 13.0% alcohol
Herbaceous, pungent and racy, this shells out aromas and flavours of gooseberry, tangy white grapefruit, zesty citrus and lemongrass along with delightful hits of tropical fruit—pineapple and melon. It’s light to mid weight, nicely textured and delivers a clean crisp mouth-watering finish. Pairs well with lightly breaded skillet-fried calamari rings under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon or freshly shucked briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Alsace
Domaine Saint-Rémy ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2007
AOC Alsace $19.95 (061150) 13.5% alcohol
Expressive aromas of rosewater, exotic Asian spice and floral notes drift from this powerful, pungent and perfectly delectable wine. Mid weight and fairly textured, it tastes a bit off-dry with flavours in the spiced ripe apple and honeyed pear zones. The lingering finish offers that sweet and tang sensation that has such an affinity for spicy Asian cuisine. Pair with tandoori chicken and garlic naan. (Vic Harradine)
Martin Steimer Pinot Gris 2008
AOC Alsace $17.95 (106807) 13.0% alcohol
Racy and refreshing, this jumps out of the glass with key lime, mineral and spice box aromas. Look for a boatload of racy zesty citrus suitably accompanied by yellow peach and ruby red grapefruit flavours. It finishes with a surge of sweet fruit flavour making it a prime candidate for pouring with spicy pork balls. (Vic Harradine)
Loire Valley
Domaine des Quatre Routes Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine 2007
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine $11.95 (608893) 12.0% alcohol
There’s good value here and this earned its final half star on price. Leesy and toasty on the nose, it shifts into overdrive on the palate with a persistent racy stream of mouth-watering tangy flavour—lemon-lime zest, red currant and white grapefruit galore. This was built for pan-seared fresh water fish, steamed clams in lemon and wine sauce or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Bordeaux
Château Beauregard 2005
AOC Pomerol $68.00 (500918) 13.0% alcohol
Deep rich and complex, this approachable blend—70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc—delivers aromas of dark toast, pencil shavings and espresso roast. It’s medium to full bodied, creamy textured and flavour-packed—ripe succulent cherry, cassis and minty black plum compote. The finish is lengthy and coated with ripe perceptible tannin; a two-hour aeration/decant will smooth them out, as will three more years of age. Drinking well 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Château Ducla 2006
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $14.95 (162461) 13.0% alcohol
Smoky, oaky, earthy and toasty aromas rip from the glass of this value-packed red. It dishes out a huge mouthful of ripe juicy fruit flavour with blueberry, black currant and black raspberry to the fore. It’s nicely balanced, seamlessly integrates the oak ageing and delivers a medium-length finish. Almost impossible to find better Bordeaux at this price earning its final half star on value. (Vic Harradine)
Château Langoa Barton 2005
AOC Saint Julien $129.00 (505800) 13.0% alcohol
Structured and complex, this well-paced troisième cru a.k.a third growth reflects its breeding and the wonderful ’05 vintage. The black licorice and espresso roast bouquet segues an involved expression of flavour—dried dark berry fruit, spiced black plum and black currant that’s interwoven with ripe supple tannin and excellent moderating acidity. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured while the lingering finish is balanced and brimming with flavour. Drink 2014 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)
Rhône Valley
Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (074856) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy, toasty and gamey on the nose, this southern Rhône gem slides into high gear on the palate with a persistent wave of sweet succulent nectar—bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and juicy black Bing cherry. It’s mid weight with lots of mouth feel from chalky tannin and warm sweet alcohol. The finish is complex and lengthy—licorice, cherry and sprigs of roasted herb and spice. Aerate/decant for two hours and serve with grilled rack of lamb or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Excellence’ 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $18.95 (708750) 14.5% alcohol
Bistro-styled and bursting with energy, look for aromas of garrigue, mixed red berry fruit and cherry. It’s a proper introduction to the flavours as they run along the same line—red pie cherry, ripe raspberry and spiced black plum. It’s nicely textured and the finish is fruit-forward and balanced. Give it a go with lasagna, meat-laden pizza or grilled gourmet burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $13.95 (328997) 13.5% alcohol
The subtle nose offers up quiet aromas of floral, spice and mixed field berry notes while the palate is treated to a mouth-coating wave of sweet flavour—maraschino cherry, black raspberry jam with nuances of spice and herb—intermingling with its firm tannin structure. The finish is lengthy, nicely balanced and fruit forward. Good bang for your buck here. (Vic Harradine)
Terredora Aglianico 2007
IGT Campania $15.95 (602284) 13.0% alcohol
The subdued aromas—earthy, berry fruit, spice and herbs—provide an interesting segue to this rich and rustic red. Medium weight and textured, it delivers a solid mouthful of involved flavour with dark chocolate, juicy cherry, espresso roast and Xmas cake spice predominant. It’s all underpinned by firm tannin then framed and balanced by moderating acidity on the lengthy finish. There’s good value here, it deserves a look. (Vic Harradine)
Travaglini Gattinara 2003
DOCG Gattinara, Piemonte $27.95 (713354) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Medium brick verging on russet colour. Dry and full bodied with well-built tannins and bright acidity. Notes of cherry juice, delicate floral, earth and dried herbs. For a nice pairing, try this with aubergine parmigiano. (Lindsay Groves)
Falchini Titolato ‘Colombaia’ Chianti Colli Senesi 2007
DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi $15.95 (135491) 12.5% alcohol
Delivering almost as large a mouthful as the name, this single vineyard Sangiovese-predominant red brims with value. Cedar, spice and red berry notes on the nose, there’s also a wisp of oak in the background from the brief 3 to 4 months spent in seasoned barrels. Pie cherry, ripe mulberry and handfuls of spice and herbs wash over the palate and through the lengthy finish. There’s perceptible tannin and good moderating acidity. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour alongside a marinated grilled flank steak, sliced very thin and served with roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Ornellaia 2006
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $174.95 (722470) 13 % alcohol
Tasting this cellar dweller was one of those rare near-religious experiences; this has it all—purity of fruit, perfect balance and the promise of future perfection. Involved aromas of camphor, licorice, exotic spice and dark berry fruit waft from the glass while the succulent balanced flavours offer up ripe black cherries soaked in black currant liqueur, armfuls of spice and herbs and toasty oak. The blend is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon; 27% Merlot; 12% Cabernet Franc; 5% Petit Verdot. It’s brimming with flavour and wrapped in firm tannin for the present—drink 2014 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)
Ornellaia ‘Le Volte’ 2007
IGT Toscana $27.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of 51% Sangiovese, 34% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rips from the glass with expressive aromas of espresso roast, dried herb and toasty notes. Medium bodied and generously textured, the flavours are in the ripe mulberry and black cherry zones. It’s all nicely balanced and sports a lengthy fruit-forward finish. If the budget allows, pick up some as it offers good value. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (335201) 13.5% alcohol
This is well paced and very well structured delivering aromas of lilac, dried crushed berry fruit and spice-infused black currant. Mid weight and fairly textured, a wash of pure fruit covers the palate—pie cherry, black Damson plum and blueberry. It dishes out a balanced dry fruity finish with an underpinning of ripe supple tannin. Many avid collectors anxiously await this each year, they won’t be disappointed. (Vic Harradine)
Sasso Al Poggio 2004
IGT Toscana $23.95 (134809) 14.0% alcohol
This is plush and mellow on the palate with a never-ending stream of ripe, sweet succulent flavour—Bing cherry, black plum and spice-laden kirsch liqueur. It’s mid weight with lots of texture and a fairly lengthy finish that layers on more of the same—ripe dark cherry, mixed spice and berry fruit flavour. (Vic Harradine)
Farina ‘Le Pezze - Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore’ 2006
DOC Valpolicella $14.95 (134684) 13.5% alcohol
The expressive nose offers fresh mint and raspberry aromas that segue tang-laden and lip-smacking flavours of racy pie cherry, cranberry and red currant. There’s good weight and it’s nicely textured sporting a lengthy fruit-forward finish that’s enveloped in a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant 2 hours then pour alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Serego Alighieri ‘650 Anniversario - Valpolicella Classico Superiore’ 2005
DOC Valpolicella $29.95 (661306) 14.0% alcohol
If you bought only one wine from this entire line-up, this would be a great choice. It has a glorious nose of savoury herbs, exotic spice and floral notes and it’s flavour-packed with ripe mulberry, racy pie cherry and roasted herbs along with wisps of well-integrated oak. It’s medium in weight and texture with a lingering, luxurious, well-balanced and lip-smacking finish. Drink now to 2015. (Vic Harradine)
Tommasi ‘Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore’ 2007
DOC Valpolicella $11.45 (069443) 375 mL 13.0% alcohol
Dried crushed berry fruit and toasty notes on the nose, this half-bottle opens up nicely on the palate with a persistent stream of succulent fruit flavour—mulberry, black currant and black juicy Bing cherry and hints of savoury herbs. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured while the lengthy finish layers on dark berry fruit and spice-infused black plum compote. It pairs well with marinated and grilled rare sirloin, sliced thin and served with your favourite fajita accompaniments. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Casa de la Ermita ‘Crianza’ 2005
DO Jumilla $18.95 (956334) 13.5% alcohol
This is very involved and expressive with alluring aromas and flavours pouring from the glass; savoury spice, earthy notes, cassis, black currant and racy cranberry, to name but a few. Medium bodied and nicely textured the finish is long and particularly well balanced with hits and hints of bramble berry and red cherry. Drinking well now and on its own, it also pairs easily with herb-rubbed roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Condado de Haza ‘Crianza’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $27.95 (963348) 14.0% alcohol
From the iconic Alejandro Fernández, this well-balanced well-structured Tempranillo never fails to impress. The oak has been seamlessly integrated and the lip-smacking flavours of Montmorency cherry and cranberry mingle effortless on the lengthy finish with finely polished tannin, ripe succulent mulberry and chocolate-covered cherry. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and just plain delicious. Pour with chicken, sausage and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)
Torres ‘Salmos’ 2006
DOCa Priorat $32.95 (060772) 14.5% alcohol
The involved aromas of mineral, savoury spice, herbs and toasty oaky notes lead the way to a fully flavoured and fruit-packed blend with sweet succulent black raspberry, moderating pie cherry and mocha-infused black currant predominant. Mid weight and nicely textured the well-sculpted lengthy finish dishes out ripe supple tannin along with sweet boysenberry and black licorice flavours. This drinks perfectly well on its own. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Henri Bourgeois ‘Les Baronnes – Sancerre’ 2008
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (542548) 12.5% alcohol
This is a bone dry well-paced Sauvignon Blanc with great purity of fruit that’s driven by 20-40 year-old vines and almost a century of regional dedication. Alluring aromas of candied lemon and floral notes segue a persistent stream of focused flavour with key lime, white peach and tang-laden pineapple to the fore. Mid weight and fairly textured, it finishes crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Pair with all manner of food from the sea—briny oysters or pan-seared scallops, for example. A Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Quinta dos Carvalhais ‘Duque de Viseu’ 2006
DOC Dão $12.95 (546309) 13% alcohol
My first tasting of this; I’ve got to get out more! Smoky, dark berry fruit and black licorice on the nose, there’s a concentrated and rich stream of fruit flavour on the palate—cherry, black currant liqueur and mulberry. Mid weight, plush in texture and well balanced, the finish is redolent of racy pie cherry and dried crushed berries. Earning its final ½ star on value; how can they possibly make wine this good for so little? A Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Chile
Santa Rita ‘120’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
DO Valle Central $10.45 (23606) 13.5% alcohol
Key lime, lemon zest and hints of white peach aromas drift from this value-packed sipper. Spritzy, crisp and refreshing flavours stream over the palate with white grapefruit, racy red currant and ripe pineapple predominant. It’s light on it’s feet, mid weight and delivers a focused refreshing aftertaste. Pan-seared trout would be a great partner. This offers good value and earned its final ½ star because of it. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal
Sandeman Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
DOC Porto $16.95 (113878) 20.5% alcohol
Having spent 4 years in large wooden casks and a further 5 in bottle, this ready-to-drink Port is smooth and mellow in texture and taste. Warm aromas of deep dark berry fruit with oodles of spice and hints of dried black currant rip from the glass while the sweet nectar that bathes the palate is in the juicy black raspberry and kirsch liqueur zones. Medium bodied and generously textured, it’s extremely well priced. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Black Prince Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet France 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $15.95 (68874) 12.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet gem glides across the palate with deft balance and a lingering finish. Subtle aromas of red berry fruit and ripe cherry segue a lovely stream of fruit flavour—ripe cranberry, spiced black plum compote and delectable cherry clafoutie. It’s delicate bodied and nicely textured, making it delightful sipping and easily paired with smoked duck breasts. Available in select LCBO stores and for by-the-case daily home or office delivery direct from Black Prince. (Vic Harradine) It’s time to taste Prince Edward County! Read more...
Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 10.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of yellow peach preserves and ripe pear brushed with honey form the tantalizing nose. The off-dry flavours—peach, ripe pineapple and sweet baked apple—glide along on a generous texture. It’s mid weight and finishes with a persistent stream replaying the full-bore fruit flavour. A perfect aperitif or wine to welcome guests, it also pairs well with spicy Asian cuisine. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)
Fielding Estate Winery ‘White Conception’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.00 12.5% alcohol
Expressive aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and floral notes roll from the glass of this tang-laden gem. Delectable flavours of honeyed pineapple, yellow peach and ripe racy citrus wash persistently over the palate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a refreshing crisp finish of good length and intensity. The exceptional balance makes this versatile with food; everything from sea food to chicken, pork and veal matches up well. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 12.5% alcohol
A recent recipient of two Gold medals, it opens with beguiling aromas of honeyed pear, spice box and tropical fruit. It’s mid weight and generously textured dishing out a persistent stream of candied lemon, succulent white peach and racy crisp citrus flavour. The lingering well-balanced finish echoes those flavours layering on juicy yellow plum. This is paired perfectly with pan-seared tilapia. For by-the-case daily home or office delivery order direct from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine) It’s time to taste Prince Edward County! Read more...
Tawse Winery ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $38.00 14.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit with briary notes on the nose, this dishes out a deftly balanced wave of palate-coating flavour—succulent ripe mulberry, racy cranberry and pomegranate. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lip-smacking and lengthy finish of spice-laden red cherry and red currant that’s underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for an hour or two before serving. This moves up a notch or two with food – had mine with venison tenderloins grilled rare – absolutely divine. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.00 750 mL $21.00 375 mL 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a subtle nose, nuances of vanillin—aged 15 months in seamlessly integrated French oak—and minerality. It’s mid weight and generously textured—full malolactic—and chockfull of flavour with ripe zesty citrus and tropical fruit to the fore—ripe melon and spice-infused pineapple. It’s well balanced and finishes crisp, clean and refreshing on the lengthy focused aftertaste. Paired perfectly with foie gras and crisp duck breast. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Robyn’s Block’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 13.5% alcohol
This tiny block of 28-year-old vines produces elegant Chardonnay with structure and finesse redolent of top-drawer Burgundy. Toasty oak, mineral and earthy notes on the expressive nose, it bathes the palate with rich and spice-laden flavours of green apple, zesty citrus, oaky notes and hazelnut. Medium to full bodied and generously textured, this will improve with age. It finishes balanced, focused and full of flavour and promise—drink now to 2015 on its own or alongside chicken Kiev. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Vinemount Ridge $30.00 14.0% alcohol
From one of Ontario’s premiere wineries, alluring aromas burst from the spice-packed nose with rosewater, ginger and floral notes predominant. The palate’s coated with a persistent stream of spice-infused and honey-coated flavour—peach, pineapple and key lime pie. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured. This is deftly balanced with good acidity to off-set the residual sugar in the tangy finish of citrus, peach and Mirabelle plum. The perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine, pair with chicken biryani. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘17th Street Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $58.00 750 mL $31.00 375 mL 13.5% alcohol
Savoury spice, mineral and gamey notes burst from the glass of this tightly wound Pinot. Underneath the ripe fruit characteristics—cherry, red currant and black plum—there’s spice, minerality and mouth-coating tannin. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a long finish that delivers ripe fruit, a firm tannin structure, good acidity and a world of promise for the patient collector—drink 2012 to 2016. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Winery ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.00 11% alcohol
Quiet aromas of mineral, key lime and floral notes segue a glorious wash of lip-smacking flavour with pronounced tangy citrus with nuances of mineral and tang-laden green apple. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a mouth-watering mineral-laden and perfectly balanced lingering finish. With each sip better than the preceding, this off-dry drinks perfectly well on its own. Spicy Asian food or pan-seared tuna is also a wonderful pairing. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic
Rating System
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
| Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |