September 12, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from Ontario’s wine regions followed by a feature on Portuguese reds. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.- All LCBO retail stores are closed Labour Day, Monday, September 7; some Agency stores (in rural areas) will be open—check the one(s) in your area.
- Ringing the 5 star bell – an Aussie Shiraz/Viognier from Kangarilla Road nails it
- A Bordeaux bounty – the 2005 reds are special—check out the 4 reviewed
- Finding Waldo – two reds at $11.95—one garnered 4 stars and the other 4 ½ stars—plus one red at $8.50 earned 4 stars
- Ontario’s Featherstone Estate Winery offers up a classy Old Vines Riesling with a unique history. The story of the vines producing this wine is rooted in Germany, slate and shale. Read more...
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
Portugal’s Rarefied Reds
Symington Family Estates ‘Altano’ 2007
DOC Douro $11.95 (579862) 13.0% alcohol
Two premium Port grapes coalesce to fashion this rich and rustic red. The nose is earthy and chockfull of mixed spice while the palate is treated to a well-balanced wash of concentrated fruit flavour with spice cake, ripe mulberry and red cherry predominant. Medium weight and nicely textured, the tannins are ripe and the moderating acidity nicely handled. Hard to find much better at this price; pick up a few and pour it with burgers, pizza or grilled gourmet sausage over the next couple of years. (Vic Harradine)
Quinta de Ventozelo Touriga Nacional 2005
DOC Douro $19.95 (657452) 14.0% alcohol
This is a lovely expression of this grape—fully flavoured and richly textured. Licorice, earthy and dark berry aromas drift off the glass and replay on the palate with flavours of black currant, black plum compote, fennel and hints of forest floor. It’s medium to full bodied and generously textured with a long, dry and balanced finish that layers on kirsch liqueur and mocha notes that are interwoven with a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours. If you’re in a rush, pour with hard aged cheese, or beef steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Ontario: White Wine
Cave Spring Cellars Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This offers terrific value showcasing the superb ’07 vintage and with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. Expressive aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and lychee fruit blossom forth while the palate is treated to a generously textured mouthful of flavour with spiced yellow plum, tropical fruit and a gorgeous bite of citrussy tang on the lip-smacking finish. Pair this with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve Off-Dry’ Riesling 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Heady aromas of zesty citrus, crisp green apple and hints of spicy ginger waft from this well-balanced and fully textured white. Racy citrus, ripe pineapple and lemon chiffon pie flavours bathe the palate throughout. There’s wonderful balance between the sweet fruit flavour and the excellent moderating acidity. Pair with coquilles St. Jacques or a creamy cheese like Brie. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 (132928) 12.7% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Beguiling aromas of exotic spice, green apple and mineral notes provide segue to this ample-textured medium-weight gem. Pristine and focused flavours—ripe yellow peach, Granny Smith apple and tangy citrus—stream over the palate and through the balanced mouth-watering finish. Vinified from meticulously handled 100% ‘county’ fruit, it certainly deserves a place in your shopping cart. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
13th Street Winery Gamay Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 (130195) 13.2% alcohol
Straightforward and uncomplicated, this delivers a nice stream of persistent flavour with blueberry, red cherry and toasty notes the more predominant among them. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured within a perceptible and grainy tannin structure. It finishes medium length with touches of mixed field berry and hints of savoury herb. Give this a go with lamb tenderloins rubbed in rosemary and grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Gravity’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 (001560) 12.8% alcohol
Look for aromas and flavours in the red cherry and currant zones with a solid spine of acidity to carry them along. There are also nuances of spiced black plum and ripe black cherry in the background. It’s medium in weight and texture with a grainy tannin structure and drying finish that layers on hints of savoury herbs. This pairs well with herb-infused goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Vinemount Ridge $37.00 (143545) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice box and lilac waft from this fledgling Pinot—it’s still tight and taut requiring patient cellaring to allow it come around. Succulent cherry and ripe red raspberry flavours are interwoven with bright acidity and ripe perceptible tannin. It sports a fairly well-balanced and lengthy finish with hints of herb and spice. Pour it in 2012 with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Syrah 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (129809) 12.3% alcohol
Cracked pepper and toasty notes segue a wash of racy flavour with spice-infused pie cherry, cranberry and red currant to the fore. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it dishes out a lingering lip-smacking finish of pomegranate interspersed with still-perceptible tannin. Pair with smoked duck breasts or ravioli of duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Merlot/Cabernet 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a quiet nose of mixed spice, underbrush and toasty notes, a wash of mellow and plush flavours coat the palate—cassis, blackberry and cherries dipped in dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied, well textured and classy. The lengthy balanced finish adds hints of mint and vanilla within a polished tannin structure. This punches well above its weight deserving a multiple purchase. Aerate/decant an hour or two and pour with marinated flank steak grilled rare, sliced thin. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Clos du Bois ‘Sonoma Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
Russian River Valley, Sonoma $22.95 (479527) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, oak and smoke aromas meld with exotic spice and rise from the glass of this creamy-textured Chard. It’s chockfull of flavour with caramel apple, citrus and tropical fruit that interweave with moderating acidity and seamlessly integrated oak. It finishes balanced and lengthy with hints of binned apple and spiced yellow plum. You won’t go far wrong with a bottle of this and a supermarket rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Sterling Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $24.95 (330233)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Scoring highly on the Wow! meter, it also displays some elegant nuances. Brioche, vanilla and smoky on the nose, the fruit gets into high gear by attacking the palate in velvety textured waves with tropical fruit, peach, citrus and green apple to the fore. Incredible balance and a lengthy finish portend a healthy four to five year drinking window. Pair with lobster bisque. This is a Winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
B.R. Cohn ‘Silver Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
North Coast $25.95 (106427) 14.1% alcohol
This rock-solid cellar dweller provides very good value. Expressive floral and red berry fruit aromas emanate from this classy expression of California Cab. It’s medium to full bodied and fully textured dishing out a wave of flavour—cassis, succulent black raspberry and ripe cranberry. It finishes balanced, lengthy and full of tannin. Drink 2011 to 2018 alongside strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Belle Glos ‘Weir Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2006
Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino County $49.95 (925727) 14.6% alcohol
There’s lots going on in this expressive and delectable spice-driven Pinot. Red berry fruit, spice, toasty notes and savoury herb aromas segue prolonged waves of focused flavour—spiced black Damson plum and Bing cherry—that ride on a spine of moderating red currant acidity. Medium in weight and texture, it sports a lengthy well-balanced finish that’s fruity with notes of toasty oak, having spent 9 months in French oak barrels. It’s a tad pricey, but certainly worth it. (Vic Harradine)
Beringer ‘Alluvium’ Red 2005
Knights Valley, Sonoma $49.95 (393447) 14.2% alcohol
Expansive and rich with purity of fruit plus elegant aroma and flavour—exotic spice, ripe succulent boysenberry and cassis—that washes over the palate in an effortless wave. It’s medium weight and delivers a generously endowed texture. There’s a firm tannin structure underlying the lingering finish of mocha, dark berry fruit and earthy notes. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside a thick juicy rib eye grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Clos du Bois ‘Sonoma Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Alexander Valley, Sonoma $27.95 (054080) 14.5% alcohol
Beginning with a subtle nose of mixed spice box and toasty notes, this settles into a well-paced and well-priced Cab dishing out plush flavours of ripe mulberry, pomegranate, and juicy black Bing cherry. Medium bodied, nicely balanced and textured, it finishes by layering on a delightful hit of sweet mixed field berry fruit flavour and it’s all underpinned by a firm tannin structure and good moderating acidity. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring; it should drink well now to 2018.
Concannon ‘Limited Release’ Petite Sirah
Central Coast $17.95 (048629) 13.5% alcohol
Involved aromas—dried herbs, toasty earthy notes and dark berry fruit—announce this bistro-styled red with oodles of flavour and structure. Look for mouth-watering flavours of cranberry, pie cherry and juicy bramble berry that interweave with nuances of espresso roast on the lengthy dry finish. It earned its final ½ star on value—pick up a few to pour alongside pizza, burgers and pasta in meat and tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Ravenswood ‘Vintner’s Blend’ Shiraz 2006
California $17.95 (135350) 13.5% alcohol
This is rich in flavour, deftly balanced and worth a multiple purchase. Raisiny, toasty and spice-infused aromas segue a delightful mouthful of racy flavour with black currant, pie cherry and red currant to the fore. It’s medium weight, generously textured showing good depth and a soft lingering finish that layers on smooth tannin and nuances of spice-infused plum compote. Give this a go with something equally delicious—marinated flank steak grilled rare served with roasted seasonal veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir 2006
Sonoma Coast $33.95 (140273) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Crafted with care—hand-picked and sorted, cap hand-punched, bottled unfined and unfiltered after almost a year in French oak. Hugely perfumed, this opens with sprigs of spice, dark berry fruit, floral notes, hints of toasty oak and forest floor aromas. It’s medium weight, fully textured and bursts on the palate with a rush of fabulous flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and ripe pomegranate. There’s a lingering finish that showcases additional sweet berry fruit, finely grained tannin, well-integrated oak and a dollop of moderating acidity. Well balanced, well priced and well... delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Trentadue Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $29.95 (104257) 14.8% alcohol
Aromas of black licorice spice and dark berry fruit waft freely from the glass. Well sculpted and structured, this medium-bodied and nicely textured Cab delivers a persistent wave of flavour—cassis and black currant with nuances of spice-infused black plum—that’s very well balanced. The oak has been seamlessly integrated while the tang-laden lingering finish is wrapped in firm tannin and adds a layer of bramble berry fruit. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Benmarco Malbec 2006
Mendoza $19.95 (657601) 14.0% alcohol
This is a lip-smacking expressive Malbec with an added splash of Bonardo—until recently, when surpassed by Malbec, Argentina’s most widely planted wine grape. Aromas and flavours of licorice, toasty notes, pie cherry and blueberry are framed with a solid stream of balancing acidity and a plush tannin structure. It’s mid weight and offers good mouth feel. The racy, dry finish is a reasonable length. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones - Reserve’ Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (507707) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This well-bred red—8 months in new French and American oak, hand-harvested fruit, 60% Malbec from 30 year-old estate vines—delivers a racy mouthful. There’s exotic spice, leather and blackberry on the nose while the flavours are zesty and tangy with sour cherry, black currant and pomegranate to the fore. It has persistent grainy tannin and minty notes on the drying finish. (Vic Harradine)
Finca Flichman 'Gestos' Malbec 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (068999) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Complex and alluring, expect a subtle nose that includes aromas of briary berry and gamey notes then a gorgeous mouthful of rich sweet concentrated fruit flavours with spiced black plum and Bing cherry to the fore. There's enough tannin for structure and interest plus generous acidity for impeccable balance; the 8 months of French oak has been seamlessly integrated. Give thought to a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Cremaschi Furlotti Family ‘Limited Edition’ 2005
Maule Valley $17.95 (014183) 13.5% alcohol
Full of concentrated fruit flavour and full bodied, the concise balance allows you to enjoy the second glass as much as the first. Look for savoury herb and spice aromas on the nose followed by a well-paced and palate-coating stream of generously textured flavour with ripe mulberry, ripe succulent cherry and cassis that persist through the lingering finish. Pair with a slab of grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Elderton ‘Friends’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (595389) 14.0% alcohol
From one of Australia’s premier wineries, this doesn’t disappoint. It opens with an involved and complex nose—toasty, nutty, gamey, exotic spice and roasted herbs. The wave after wave of rich and colourful flavour—black currant, mint and spiced blackberry—coat the palate persisting throughout the lengthy well-balanced finish. It’s medium weight and well textured with hint of tannin and more than a hint of great value. (Vic Harradine)
Elderton ‘The Ashmead Family’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa, South Australia $29.95 (713024) 14.5% alcohol
Elderton has won the prestigious Jimmy Watson trophy and has their ‘Command Shiraz’ listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification—they know how to make wine! A cut above others at this price point, look for dark berry fruit and toasty nutty aromas that segue way classy and fruit-forward flavours with spice-infused cassis, brambleberry and succulent Bing cherry to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied, well textured and sports a delectable balanced fruity finish. If you’re willing to splurge, here’s a good candidate. (Vic Harradine)
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2007
Limestone Coast, South Australia $14.95 (673897) 14.5% alcohol
Straightforward, racy and tangy, it dishes out aromas of toasty oak, spiced red berry fruit and savoury herb. Medium in body and texture, focused zesty flavours of red currant, cranberry and pomegranate spill over the palate and drying finish. This moves up notch paired with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Kangarilla Road Shiraz/Viognier 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (127548) 15.0% alcohol
My first sip of their Shiraz and it’s simply awesome. Aromas of roasted herb, spiced dark fruit and gamey notes announce this full-bodied, generously textured and fully flavoured gem. The gusher of flavour includes dark spiced berry fruit, black cherry and minty cassis. It’s deftly balanced, beautifully structured and brimming with class. The long finish layers on kirsch liqueur and ripe resolved tannin making it a pleasure to sip now and on to 2016. (Vic Harradine)
Two Hands ‘Lucky Country’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (077883) 14.8% alcohol
There’s sweet berry fruit and hints of spice on the nose while the rich and concentrated flavour profile includes flavours redolent of Port—sweet cherry, currants and dark spice cake—mingling with good moderating acidity and barely perceptible tannin. It’s medium weight and fairly textured with a long fruit-forward finish. Grilled lamb tenderloins would be a willing dance partner. (Vic Harradine)
Wakefield Shiraz 2007
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol
The 2009 Sydney competition ‘Blue-Gold’ awarded this wine is for being über food-friendly. Aromas of black plum, dried berry fruit and cherry roll off this rich and concentrated beauty. Plush and expressive flavours—succulent black cherries dipped in dark chocolate and brambly berry fruit—drench the palate and lingering balanced finish. It’s medium weight, nicely textured with a solid tannin underpinning. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Wits End ‘The Procrastinator’ 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (684100) 15.5% alcohol
This is one gargantuan, crowd-pleasing, Wow! red blend—60% Shiraz, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Grenache. Expressive aromas and palate-drenching flavours—dried black currant, kirsch liqueur and oodles of spiced black Damson plum—interweave with racy pie cherry and ripe mulberry. It’s full bodied and nicely textured sporting a very fruit-forward finish—not for the faint of palate. Pour with rich stews or marinated grilled flank steak with caramelized onions and pan-seared Portobellos. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (735043) 13.5% alcohol
A winecurrent perennial favourite with a hefty 25% price hike from ‘07, it delivers a racy pungent nose of passion fruit and grassy nettle before settling into zesty and focused flavours on the palate—sharp gooseberry, white grapefruit rind and ripe lemon. It’s medium bodied and richly textured—there’s 5% Semillon blended in and it was aged briefly in old oak barrels—sporting a laser-like citrus finish so typical of the region. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Oyster Bay Merlot 2008
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (692343) 13.0% alcohol
Consistently priced since the ’04 vintage, this well-paced red from New Zealand’s über Merlot wine region offers good value earning its final ½ star because of it. Spice and berry fruit on the nose, it dishes out a persistent and focused stream of racy cranberry, zesty pie cherry and ripe cranberry flavour melding perfectly with hints of tannin and savoury herbs. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and worth your attention. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Flagstone ‘Dark Horse’ Shiraz 2007
WO Western Cape $17.95 (127654) 14.5% alcohol
With earthy and heavily toasted notes dominating the expressive nose and the expansive complex flavours –sweet black plum compote, spiced raisin cake, mulberry jam and exotic Asian spice—there’s a compelling case for a multiple purchase. This is a classy limited-production—only 70 barrels made—Shiraz. It’s full bodied, fully textured and well balanced with a lingering aftertaste of espresso roast. Give it a go with spicy smoked and grilled pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Bordeaux
Château Barde-Haut 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $69.00 (501965) 14.5% alcohol
If the budget allows, here’s the place to lash out. Winemaker Alain Raynaud has fashioned this outstanding red blend—80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon—into a lush and plush wine. Black licorice and toasty notes on the nose, it settles into a steady stream of soft fruit flavours—black raspberry, black currant and cherry—that are underpinned by a firm tannin structure and a moderating spine of acidity. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and dishes out a lengthy and well-balanced finish redolent of cassis and spiced black plum. Drink 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Château Brulesécaille 2003
AOC Côtes de Bourg $19.95 (125872) 13% alcohol
Well paced and well priced, aromas of spice box, toast and dried currant segue a persistent wash of flavour that coats the palate with cherry, mixed berry fruit and black plum compote. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with unresolved tannin still present—a two-hour aeration decant should tame them. The lingering finish replays the aromas and flavours. Paired perfectly with roast leg of lamb. Drink 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Château Clos de Sarpe 2005
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $155.00 (501866) 14.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, tar, black licorice and earthy notes rip from the glass of this teeth-staining red. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured delivering a boatload of tannin—cellar until 2014. Warm concentrated flavours of ripe Bing cherry, black currant and spice-infused cassis lurk beneath the firm tannin structure while purity of fruit, moderating acidity and lengthy finish coalesce to portend a long and happy life. (Vic Harradine)
Château La Fleur de Boüard 2005
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $60.00 (500959) 14.0% alcohol
This is mellow and plush with a delightful creamy-smooth texture. Well-paced flavours of dried crushed dark berries, kirsch liqueur and minty Bing cherries mingle effortlessly with ripe polished tannin and enough acidity to provide deft balance. There’s a whiff of toasty oak in the background and the lingering juicy finish layers on interesting hits of cherry clafoutie and black currant. Drink 2011 to 2016 or tonight after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Rhône Valley
Domaine Lafond ‘Roc-Epine’ Lirac 2007
AOC Rhône $19.95 (128660) 14.0% alcohol
Gamey, bacon and leather aromas open up this well-sculpted Rhône blend—70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. There are oodles of fruit flavours to tempt the palate with juicy black raspberry, tangy red cherry and ripe blueberry among them. It’s medium to full bodied and fully textured providing a lingering and balanced finish redolent of black berry jam. Pick up a couple of bottles and pour with beef tenderloin in a Port reduction sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Memoria Primitivo di Manduria 2006
DOC Puglia $14.95 (687210) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour, pick up a handful for drinking now to 2012—it earned its final ½ star on value. Savoury spice and berry fruit aromas segue lush and plush flavours of black plum compote, raspberry jam and spiced black cherry that wash over the palate in wave after delicious wave. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and dishes out a fruity, nicely balanced finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $89.95 (986117)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Known as "the Master of the Veneto", patriarch Giuseppe Quintarelli and family produce some of the most treasured, and most expensive, wine in Italy. This is rich and well structured, look for aromas of dried spicy berry fruit. They show the way for copious amounts of mulberry and red cherry fruit flavours, all nicely moderated by a stream of zest and tang. Well balanced and nicely textured, this will appeal to collectors. (Vic Harradine)
Tenuta Sant’Antonio ‘Selezione Antonio Castagnedi’ Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
DOC Valpolicella $44.95 (685107) 15.5% alcohol
The four Castagnedi brothers, owners and operators of this winery, named this premium Amarone after their father, Antonio. Expressive aromas of sweet berry fruit and leather introduce a gusher of persistent flavour—ripe mulberry, dark spice cake, lip-smacking pie cherry and nutty, roasted herb nuances. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy finish that’s well balanced and simply delicious. The tannins are ripe and smooth and they portend excellent drinking now to 2020. Paired perfectly with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Miguel Torres ‘Mas Borras’ Pinot Noir 2007
DO Penedès $29.95 (673483) 14.0% alcohol
The folks from Vintages picked a dandy for Wine of the Month—it’s chockfull of ripe succulent fruit flavour. Aromas of exotic spice, mocha, dark berry fruit and notes of cedar waft from the glass providing an introduction to wave upon wave of delectable flavour—cassis, beetroot, dusty dried berry fruit and black currant. It’s all nicely framed by soft tannin, moderating acidity and satin-smooth texture. The balanced finish lingers, but you shouldn’t, this wont stay on shelves long. (Vic Harradine)
Montgó Monastrel/Shiraz 2004
DO Yecla $14.95 (076588)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Another value star of this release, it's predominantly Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre or Mataró) and it's rich, grainy and powerful. There are involved aromas of forest floor, black currant and spice-infused blackberry setting up a gusher of sweet and ripe flavours—kirsch liqueur, briary berry and blueberry—underpinned by perceptible tannin. With all this going on, it's surprisingly approachable, well balanced and silky smooth on the palate and lingering finish. Good to go now with strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare, it will be drinking well for the next four years. Pick up a half-dozen or so. (Vic Harradine)
Bodegas Navarrsotillo ‘Noemus Joven’ 2007
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (131839) 13.0% alcohol
Offering very good value, this delivers a plush and pleasurable blend—60% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha – a.k.a. Grenache, 20% Mazuelo – a.k.a. Carignan. The quiet nose offers up spice box and dark berry fruit aromas while the flavours are in the sweet black raspberry and cassis zones. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with very good balance and a long fruity aftertaste. Sipping very well on its own, it’s also versatile with food—meat and prawn paella, meat-laden pizza and grilled gourmet sausage all pair well. (Vic Harradine)
Torrederos Tinto Crianza 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (040808) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of spiced plum pudding, toasty oak—spent 12 months in a mix of American (60%) and French (40%) oak barrels—and hints of minty cherry abound. The straightforward flavours are made up of juicy dark berry fruit, spiced black plum and racy pie cherry. It’s mid weight, fairly textured and delivers a balanced finish displaying good fruit and bare hints of oak and tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Bodegas Vallobera ‘Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja, Spain $28.95 (114314) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Opening with a full rainbow of aromas—mocha, black licorice, cherry and sweet oak—this is lovingly sculpted and elegant. The persistent stream of flavour showers ripe Bing cherry, bramble berry and tangy black currant on the palate. Medium bodied and nicely textured it has a solid underpinning of polished tannin finishing dry and well balanced. Aerate/decant for two hours then pour alongside a generous cut of beef tenderloin grilled rare to medium rare. Drinking well for another decade. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages release: October 10, 2009
Featherstone Estate Winery Merlot 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed with exotic spice, red licorice and field berry aromas it bathes the palate with well-sculpted luscious flavours. Expect succulent cherry, black currant and black plum compote flavours persisting throughout the balanced lengthy and fruit-driven finish. Medium bodied and creamy smooth; this deserves your attention. It’s divine sipped on its own and food friendly—roast pork stuffed with dried cranberries, leg of lamb with wine-reduction sauce or pour with your Thanksgiving bird and all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages release: March, 2010
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 10.2% alcohol
There’s a compelling story behind this wine – read more. With its breeding shining through—20+ year-old German Weis-clone vines planted on the lime- and shale-rich ‘Bench’—it delivers a racy focused mouth-watering rendition of cool-climate Riesling. Expressive aromas—key lime and steely mineral notes—segue lime-drenched mineral and lemon rind flavour. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lip-smacking bone dry finish of grapefruit tang. Only 441 cases made from this single-vineyard, 2.5 acre, estate-grown fruit—a ‘must buy’ for lovers of fine Riesling. Purchase by the case now directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Robert Mondavi ‘Fumé Blanc’ 2007
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 14.3% alcohol
This is a unique and delicious expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Involved aromas of buttered toast, floral and herbaceous notes segue flavours of gooseberry and white peach that arrive in palate-drenching waves. It’s mid weight, creamy textured and sports a lingering crisp and lip-smacking citrus finish. 8% Semillon was blended in then it was aged sur lie—resting on expended yeast cells, followed by batonage—stirring the cells periodically adding texture and flavour. Finally, it was aged three months in mostly seasoned French oak barrels. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Argentina
La Puerta Shiraz 2008
Valle de la Puerta $9.45 (61436) 14.0% alcohol
Currant, raisin and floral notes on the nose, this is full of flavour—fruit, tang and spice—and value. Dried black currant, ripe juicy cherry and loads of spiced black plum flavours roll over the palate from this medium-bodied generously textured red. It’s nicely balanced and delivers a firm tannin grip on the lingering finish. Aerate/decant this for a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Australia
Wyndham Estate ‘Bin 999’ Merlot 2008
South Eastern Australia $15.45 (336347) 13.5% alcohol
Very perfumed on the nose—dark berry fruit, camphor and spice—it’s succulent, rich and concentrated. Boysenberry and blueberry flavours meld nicely with the moderating zest and tang and solid underpinning of perceptible tannin. Medium to full bodied and fairly textured, the mouth-watering finish is well balanced and lingering. This delivers good value and shines when served with red meat—lamb or beef—grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
California
Robert Mondavi ‘Private Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
California $15.95 (405753) 13.5% alcohol
This showcases an involved nose of grassy herbaceous notes, mineral and citrus aromas. It’s medium bodied, gorgeously textured with a complex array of flavours—racy grapefruit, honeyed pineapple and hints of lemongrass. The lingering crisp and refreshing finish is well balanced and layers on a nice hit of ripe Mirabelle plum. There’s a pinch of Riesling and a dash of Gewürztraminer adding pizzazz and lift. (Vic Harradine)
R.H. Phillips ‘Night Harvest’ Shiraz 2005
California $13.95 (576272) 13.5% alcohol
This is a pretty good mouthful of California Cab at a very good price; it’s plush and friendly with rich and concentrated fruit-forward flavour—what’s not to like? Look for juicy dark berry fruit, chocolate and raisin on the palate while the balanced lengthy finish adds a note of tar. A cut above many at this price, give it a go with grilled ribs brushed with spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Chile
Santa Rita ‘120’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
DO Valle Central $10.45 (23606) 13.5% alcohol
Key lime, lemon zest and hints of white peach aromas drift from this value-packed sipper. Spritzy, crisp and refreshing flavours stream over the palate with white grapefruit, racy red currant and ripe pineapple predominant. It’s light on it’s feet, mid weight and delivers a focused refreshing aftertaste. Pan-seared trout would be a great partner. This offers good value and earned its final ½ star because of it. (Vic Harradine)
Viña San Pedro ‘Castillo de Molina Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Central Valley $13.25 (339176) 14.0% alcohol
The quiet nose of spiced dark berry fruit segues a clean focused stream of racy flavour—red currant, pie cherry and blueberry that mingles nicely with ripe black cherry and spiced black Damson plum. Medium in weight and texture; it finishes with a lovely burst of warm sweet fruit flavour and hints of finely polished tannin. This has good structure and drinks well on its own. It also pairs well with grilled sausage or burgers. (Vic Harradine)
France
Domaine de Sérame Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Vin de Pays d’Oc $13.95 (35006) 13.5% alcohol
This delivers a lovely nose of spice box, red licorice and earthy notes that blossom into a juicy mouthful of berry fruit flavours—blueberry, boysenberry and cranberry. Medium bodied and generously textured, it delivers a lengthy well-balanced finish that adds some interest with a good tannin structure. Pour alongside strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
La Romaine ‘Venus Laurée’ 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $12.95 (28779) 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of camphor and dark berry fruit introduce this rock-solid value-packed red blend—70% Grenache / 30% Syrah. On the palate it’s succulent, delectable and carefully balanced with black raspberry, ripe mulberry and black Bing cherry flavour that’s showcased by generous texture and a finish that’s lengthy and layers on hints of milk chocolate. Lovely sipped on its own, it’s perfect with barbequed pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
La Vieille Ferme 2007
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $11.95 (263640) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—it’s made by the iconic Perrin family who over-deliver flavour and value at every price point. This well-sculpted blend—Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault—is underpinned by ripe tannin and dishes out an amalgam of alluring aromas and flavours with succulent ripe black cherry and black currant predominant. It’s deftly balanced, medium weight and sports a nicely textured lingering finish. Versatile with food, pour with supermarket rotisserie chicken, burgers or pasta in tomato and meat-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Italy
Farnese ‘Casal Vecchio’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $12.35 (612788) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. This delivers a subtle attractive nose of mixed spice and floral notes. The flavours are fleshy, well paced and fruit forward—succulent plush mulberry, juicy black cherry and black raspberry compote galore. It’s medium to full bodied, creamy smooth and dishes out a lingering finish of spice, sweet mulberry and kirsch liqueur framed by a firm tannin structure. A crowd-pleaser for sure, pour with roast rack of lamb rubbed with Moroccan spice and garlic. (Vic Harradine)
Secco-Bertani Ripasso 2006
DOC Valpolicella Valpantena $17.00 (12443) 13%
Firm and focused, this lives up to its breeding—a century and a half of winemaking expertise, prime selection of estate-owned fruit, 18 months in oak. The alluring nose is full of spice and cherry aromas while the palate is blessed with a persistent stream of balanced fruit flavour—pie cherry, sweet ripe mulberry and racy red currant. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a lingering, dry, slightly tannic finish of tangy cranberry and a tell-tale Ripasso bite. This pairs perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand
Monkey Bay Pinot Grigio 2008
Gisborne $14.95 (93666) 12.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, honeyed peach and floral notes waft from this lovely well-balanced crisp and refreshing sipper. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a generous wash of well-paced flavour with tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—citrus and white peach. This pairs well with seafood appetizers like pan-seared tilapia under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Malivoire ‘Red’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (141253)
Bistro-styled and value-packed, this delivers a rich and concentrated mouthful of fruit-forward flavour with black currant jam, black plum and mixed spice to the fore. This ready-to-drink crowd-pleasing red is medium in weight and texture with a long finish of kirsch liqueur flavour and gamey hints. Chill ever so slightly and serve alongside a plate of deli foods—salami, pancetta, olives, roasted red pepper, aged cheddar and a baguette. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal
Alianca ‘Foral Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro $8.50 (239046) 13.0% alcohol
This punches well above the price, earning its final half star on value. Aromas of mixed spice, currant and black raspberry segue warm rich and ripe flavours—dark berry fruit and mulberry jam—that mingle effortlessly with ripe tannin and good moderating tang. It’s well balanced, nicely textured and sports a lengthy fruit-packed finish. This pairs well with spicy sausage, burgers and aged hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Cavallina Nero d’Avola-Syrah 2007
IGT Sicilia $9.75 (74096) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and rich berry fruit aromas waft from this nicely balanced sweet and tangy red. You’ll find oodles of sweet berry fruit flavours that meld perfectly with the racy taste of pie cherry and cranberry. It’s nicely focused with good texture and a fruity finish. This is a great dance partner with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.00 375 mL 13% alcohol
Perfumed and tantalizing aromas of ripe red cherry, black plum and incense drift from the nose of this well-structured red. The mouthful of gorgeous flavour includes a gusher of tangy cherry, ripe mulberry and red currant along with hints of chocolate and mixed spice. It’s medium in texture and body with a lingering well-balanced finish of dark berry fruit. This saw 15 months in oak—already perfectly integrated—and was farmed and bottled respecting organic principles. Pair this with marinated pork tenderloin or smoked duck breast. (Vic Harradine) Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery.
Cheers, Vic
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
 | Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |