August 29, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from the Rhône Valley followed by a feature on California Zinfandel. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.

• You don’t often see ‘prices rolled back’ and ‘LCBO’ in the same sentence—Beginning Saturday, August 29^th you can purchase select wines at the LCBO with most prices rolled back 15% to 25% during their semi-annual ‘Vintages Bin End Sale’—you can view the entire selection of 173 wines here.
• Winecurrent was informed you can confirm product availability in individual stores by calling the toll-free LCBO Infoline at 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226) the day before the sale – August 28th.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Is it really ‘hand made’? – read the interesting comments from winemaker Tertius Boshoff about this commercial ‘hand made’ wine. It’s a South African Red Wine in the Main Release with a link to his comments within the review.
• 5 star and Spanish, Olé! – Bodegas Lan rings the 5 star bell with a $24.95 Gran Reserva red
• Viña Tabalí – solidifies its claim as a go-to producer of fine Chilean wine with a dazzling ‘upstream’ Syrah
• Buried treasure – there are many fine wines to be found after the Main Release
• Finding Waldo – Kosher and kind to the wallet, this Pinotage is value packed and delicious

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Rhône Valley Feature

Domaine Paul Henry Côtes-du-Rhône 2006
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (130021) 14.5% alcohol
Alluringly perfumed with spice and red licorice, this delivers a well-balanced mouthful of savoury spice, kirsch liqueur and black juicy Bing cherry. It’s medium bodied, well textured and sports a lingering finish of spiced dark berry fruit and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours then serve alongside marinated flank steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Montmartel Visan 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $16.95 (130062) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black pepper and black raspberry abound on the nose while tangy flavours of pie cherry, racy ripe cranberry and cassis persist throughout. It’s medium in texture and weight with a gorgeous finish that layers on dollops of black currant and blueberry along with firm tannin. Tuck this away for a couple of years or aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside a medium-rare strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Le Gravillas Sablet 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (078790) 14.0% alcohol
Opening with a perfumed nose of exotic spice and tar, this delivers lovely strawberry and raspberry flavour wrapped in a firm tannin structure. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured. It’s also austere at the moment with good acidity and a lengthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2016 with a hearty stew—osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)


Ogier Rasteau 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (127738) 14.5% alcohol
Expansive and generous aromas dance off the glass—blackberry jam, Asian spice and prunes among them. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured delivering a mouthful of rich flavour including sweet ripe boysenberry, black currant and spice cake. It’s all wrapped up in grainy tannin needing two or three years in the cellar or a three-hour decant.


Santa Duc ‘Les Buissons’ Cairanne 2003
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (017079) 13.5% alcohol
The expressive nose delivers sweet vanilla, fennel, tar and sprigs of mixed spice. Next up is a delicious mouthful of well-balanced flavour with rich and concentrated black cherry, mulberry and zesty pie cherry. Well paced and medium weight, it finishes with a gusher of fleshy warm sweet dark berry fruit. Purchase a few for drinking over the balance of ’09. (Vic Harradine)


Château Mourgues du Grès ‘Les Galets Rouges’ 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (132548) 14.5% alcohol
Complex and well structured, this deeply coloured blend—78% Syrah, 22% Grenache—announces itself with aromas of freshly sliced strawberry and toasty oak. Full-bodied and nicely textured, succulent flavours of black plum compote, Bing cherry and spiced dark berry fruit persist through the long and well-balanced finish. There’s good value here and it’s worthy of a multiple purchase. Pour alongside burgers, steak or stew. (Vic Harradine)


Delas Haute Pierre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $35.95 (074195) 15.0% alcohol
This is expansive, showy and very well priced. Aromas of smoke, tar and forest floor segue a wave of ripe fruit flavours—mulberry, cherry and black raspberry—that meld effortlessly with moderating pie cherry and ripe pomegranate. It’s medium to full bodied and nicely textured with a dry finish that layers on firm tannin. Drink 2011 to 2018 or pull the cork now and aerate/decant three hours pouring alongside a slab of beef tenderloin grilled rare. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (067678) 15.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, savoury herb and dark berry fruit aromas link to rich and concentrated flavours of ripe boysenberry, kirsch liqueur and handfuls of mixed spice. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied and fully textured with a deliciously long fruit-filled finish that unites herbs and hints of ripe tannin. Delicious sipped on its own, this pairs well with grilled rack of lamb. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras 2005
AOC Vacqueyras $24.95 (130013) 13.0% alcohol
The lifted and complex nose delivers cherry cordial, spiced blackberry and mocha aromas. Rich and concentrated flavours of dark sweet berry fruit, tar and black licorice glide along on a creamy texture. This is muscular, balanced and medium to full bodied with a lingering finish of warm ripe fruit wrapped in a firm tannin grip. Drink 2011 to 2018 paired with grilled meat; try medium-rare venison or elk tenderloins. (Vic Harradine)

California Zinfandel Feature



Gnarly Head ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel 2007 

Lodi $17.95 (678698) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The old "gnarly" vines that grow the fruit for this wine are free standing and head-trained (as opposed to growing on a trellis) and must therefore be harvested by hand. This helps deliver a wine with a complex nose of musty earth, dry leaves, smoke and vanilla. On the palate it has a full body, lots of fruit, tart acidity and alcohol. It's a real mouthful that leaves a long lingering pie cherry finish. A great BBQ wine that is also great value. (Dave Isaacs)


Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2005
Napa Valley $23.95 (126607) 15.0% alcohol
This is a hedonistic Zin—full bodied and fully flavoured. Aromas and flavours of cassis, fleshy black currant and plump bramble berry are persistent throughout. It’s well balanced and beautifully structured, not over the top or jammy. It finishes lengthy in a blaze of dark berry fruit. This is a lovely wine with the price-quality ratio well in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2007
Sonoma County $28.95 (942151) 15.5% alcohol
Focused and flavourful; look for aromas of juicy cherry and campfire smoke. The flavours are pristine and pure with ripe red cherry, kirsch liqueur and black plum compote along with excellent moderating acidity and a ripe tannin structure. It’s well balanced and medium weight sporting a long mouth-watering finish and a noticeable touch of class. Pick up a few for drinking over the next four or five years. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

Bonville ‘Prestige’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $59.95 (908293) 12.5% alcohol
This has impeccable breeding—the Chardonnay grapes were estate grown and sourced from the Grand Cru villages of Oger and Cramant with the vine-age averaging over 50 years with no vines under forty. The nose offers up glorious aromas of buttered toast and honeyed fruit mingling with subtle leesy notes. The gentle mousse delivers a gorgeous stream of green apple, citrus zest, ripe yellow peach and Mirabelle plum. It’s medium weight and generously textured with a clean refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: White Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The quality-price ratio is well in your favour, pick up a few saving one or two for Thanksgiving and/or Christmas roast turkey dinner. Heavenly scented aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla bean, apple and pear waft from this medium-bodied, generously textured beauty. The mouth-filling flavours that drench the palate include sweet ripe pineapple, caramel, yellow peach and moderating citrussy zest. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: Red Wine

Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Cabernet Franc 2007 

VQA Prince Edward County $18.95 (122267) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This opens with a quiet nose of black plum and tell-tale Franc aromas of graphite. Racy flavours of pie cherry and ripe mulberry wash over the palate in a steady well-balanced stream. The lingering and lip-smacking finish layers on ripe cherry notes, and hints of sweet oak from a brief 5½ month barrel ferment and ageing in French oak barrels. This is 100% PEC fruit from an outstanding winery and vintage—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Wayne Gretzky Estates ‘No. 99’ Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (128652) 12.7% alcohol
‘The Great One’ scores a winner here with aromas of dark toasty oak, field berry fruit and mixed spice notes. Succulent flavours of black berry and juicy Bing cherry coat the palate in waves. It’s deftly balanced, the oak has been seamlessly integrated, the finish lingers and the spine of moderating acidity is apparent throughout. It’s also full of promise as the drying tannin is perceptible making this a candidate for optimum drinking 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Quail’s Gate Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (560052) 13.7% alcohol
Opening with a funky nose of barnyard, spice, toasty and gamey notes, this blesses the palate with a lovely stream of ripe black currant and blueberry fruit. It’s mid weight with a generous texture and a lengthy balanced finish that layers on hints of tobacco leaf. There’s perceptible, but acceptable, tannin uniting interest and ageability. This is paired perfectly with smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

U.S.A.: White Wine

Cline Viognier 2007
California $15.95 (128421) 14.0% alcohol
Enticing aromas include honeyed pear, yellow peach and leafy notes. Delectable flavours glide on a medium-weight generously textured mouth feel—ripe yellow plum, nectarine and crisp spiced apple. It’s medium in weight and texture sporting a balanced and fruit-forward finish. Give this a go with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula under a drizzle of mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)


Ironstone Chardonnay 2007
California $15.95 (355776) 13.5% alcohol
Racy, zesty and refreshing, it’s the antithesis of over-oaked Chardonnay. Aromas of lemon zest and floral notes waft from the glass of this light- to medium-weight generously textured white. Offering good value, you’ll discover Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and spiced melon on the palate while the lip-smacking finish showers pineapple and lemon flavours. (Vic Harradine)

U.S.A.: Red Wine

Ironstone ‘Estate Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Sierra Foothills $37.95 (702381) 14.5% alcohol
Expansive, rich and expressive, this dishes out a boatload of fruit-forward flavour with black currant, black raspberry and blueberry up front. It’s particularly well balanced, medium textured with good grip throughout. The lengthy drying finish adds a touch of earthiness and wonderful moderating acidity. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant, you could also tuck it away and drink 2011 to 2016. As with all Ironstone wine, it offers excellent value. (Vic Harradine)


Folie à Deux ‘Ménage à Trois Red’ 2007 

California $19.95 (665158) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) It’s hard to pass up reviewing a wine with a name like this. This wine blends Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas are very fruit driven, nearly syrupy, with plum, black and blueberry fruits combining with sweet spices and a touch of oak. It’s softly structured with a juicy, ripe fruit flavor profile and medium body. It’s an easy drinking style which could be enjoyed on its own, or with roast turkey or chicken. (Mark Tandan)

Chile: Red Wine

Apaltagua ‘Envero’ Gran Reserva 2007
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (129973) 14.0% alcohol
Arrive early and pick up a few; it’s good value. The quiet nose of earthy and spice box aromas segue the showering of sweet succulent fruit flavour—ripe mulberry, juicy black Bing cherry and bramble berry—that’s infused with finely polished tannin. Medium to full bodied and nicely textured, the oak has been deftly integrated and the moderating acidity is persistent throughout. The lingering finish introduces the barest wisp of leafiness. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Alicia ‘Gran Reserva de Los Andes’ Merlot 2005
Maipo Valley $19.95 (663088) 14.5% alcohol
This is a neat and tidy red offering good value. Toasty oak, mocha and savoury spice on the nose, the cornucopia of flavour delivers ripe raspberries dipped in dark chocolate, pie cherry and hints of savoury black plum. It’s medium weight, nicely textured with a drying finish of dark fruit and firm tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before pouring alongside grilled rack of lamb rubbed with garlic and rosemary. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Yalumba ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2008
Eden Valley, South Australia $17.95 (039271) 13.5% alcohol
Racy and refreshing, look for lifted aromas of green apple and pear along with hints of mixed spice. Crisp flavours of pineapple, red currant and racy lemon wash over the palate and throughout the clean and refreshing finish. Light to medium bodied and nicely textured, this is the perfect pairing with shrimp ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Branson Coach House ‘Greenock Block’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (127563) 16.0% alcohol
This is Port-like with 16% alcohol and concentrated jammy aromas and flavours. There’s a huge explosion of ripe sweet fruit on the palate —black currant, black raspberry and spiced black plum—that carries through to the lengthy fruit-forward finish. This is a full-bodied and fully flavoured fruit bomb that will be a big crowd pleaser served with grilled pork slathered in a Port-reduction sauce. (Vic harradine)


Rolf Binder ‘Heinrich’ Shiraz/Mataro/Grenache 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (090258) 14.5% alcohol
Opening with a subtle nose of toasty notes and hints of black pepper, this muscular Rhône-blend gem delivers a stream of well-balanced and delicious flavour with black currant, juicy black Bing cherry and ripe cranberry rippling through to the lengthy mouth-watering finish. It’s medium to full bodied and nicely textured with a firm tannin underpinning. Drink 2011 to 2018 paired with a thick T-bone grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Coopers Creek Chardonnay/Viognier 2007
Gisborne, North Island $16.95 (127480) 13.5% alcohol
You don’t often see this sprightly blend of grapes... pity. This is full of flavour and particularly well balanced. Look for crisp refreshing flavours of green apple, white peach and spiced yellow plum. It’s medium weight and generously textured with a fully integrated hint of oak. This pairs well with lightly battered, skillet-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Seifried Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Nelson, South Island $17.95 (957670) 13.0% alcohol
Hailing from cool-climate Nelson on the northern tip of the South Island; it’s delicious. Pungent aromas of gooseberry, nettles and citrus segue lip-smacking flavour bathing the palate with racy lemon pie filling and baked apple. It’s nicely balanced with tropical fruit—pineapple and melon. This is medium weight with a silky texture and a clean crisp finish. Drink over the next few months with pan-seared trout or salmon. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Babich Pinot Noir 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (000216) 13.5% alcohol
This showcases good expression of a value-driven Marlborough Pinot with firm and focused aromas and flavours. Flavours of ripe cranberry, pomegranate and red currant stream throughout, melding with polished tannin and hints of toasty oak. It’s light to medium bodied and generously textured with a clean finish. This shines with food; pair with spaghetti squash laced with spicy tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Goats Do Roam White 2008
WO Western Cape $11.95 (943167) 13.5% alcohol
Straightforward and pleasing, it’s light to medium bodied and quite refreshing on the finish. Aromas and flavours in the citrus, apple and pear zones stream through to the crisp aftertaste. Lovely sipped on its own, it provides the perfect dance partner to all manner of chicken, veal or seafood appetizers. Well priced. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Stellenrust ‘JJ Hand Made Wines’ Merlot 2006
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (096586) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe black berry fruit and heavily toasted oak spill from this medium-bodied generously textured red. Dynamic and concentrated, it delivers a gargantuan mouthful of cassis, juicy mulberry and dark mixed berry fruit that melds beautifully with smoke and succulent Bing cherry on the balanced lengthy aftertaste. Pair with bobotie and yellow rice—an RSA curried-meat favourite. There’s purity of fruit and flavour and a compelling story with this wine... read more. (Vic Harradine)


Kleine Draken Pinotage 2007
WO Paarl $15.95 (613208) 14.0% alcohol
Heavily toasted oak, ripe berry fruit and mixed spice aromas waft from the glass of this Kosher red. Sweet succulent rich fruit flavour abounds with black plum compote and dark berry fruit to the fore. The lengthy and well-balanced finish adds pie cherry and sweet warm cassis flavours. Medium weight and nicely textured, this is simply a delicious well-structured well-paced red wine. Enjoy with beef brisket in wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Castegens 2005 

AOC Côtes de Castillon $18.95 (125856) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This smooth red blend is Merlot predominant with Cabernet Franc and a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers aromas and flavours of cassis, sweet dark brambly berry and a moderating hit of sour cherry. The 12 months in oak has been seamlessly integrated and the mouth feel is silky smooth. This is well priced and very worthy of attention if looking for well-made Bordeaux at a more-than-reasonable price. Pour with grilled lamb skewers and roasted root veggies. (VH)


Château l’Archange 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion $62.00 (501213) 14.5% alcohol
This cellar-dweller is brimming with aromas of black currant and savoury spice. Ripe juicy flavours spill from the glass with succulent cassis and plush black raspberry predominant. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and very well balanced. The drying finish lingers with fruit-forward flavour wrapped firmly in still-grainy tannin. Drink 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Château La Gravière 2005
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $54.00 (501742) 13.0% alcohol
This needs time in the cellar, drink 2012 – 2016. There’s a boatload of aromas on the nose—espresso roast, spice box, dark berry fruit—that segue flavours of exotic spice, pie cherry and bramble berry. Medium in body and texture, this tangy and crisp offering adds a layer of ripe pomegranate on the medium-length finish. Ratcheting up a notch with food, pair this with meat or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Château St. Georges 2005
AOC St-Georges-St-Émilion $34.95 (960310) 13.5% alcohol
The expressive nose shows considerable charm with cherry compote and floral aromas to the fore. These give way to rich and concentrated flavours of cassis, juicy black Bing cherry and dark Belgian chocolate. This medium-bodied nicely textured red needs time in the cellar; drink 2012 to 2018. The dry well-balanced finish displays a firm tannin underpinning. When ready, pour with grilled rack of lamb and root vegetables. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2005 

AOC Saint-Émilion $22.95 (0979955) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a relatively simple wine with notes of blackberry, cassis and faint floral perfume. On the palate this medium- to full-bodied wine is 13.5% alcohol with velvety tannins and moderate acidity. This may be a good choice if you’re looking for a straightforward red that will not overwhelm a more complicated dish. (Lindsay Groves)


Château Desvignes Chénas 2007
AOC Beaujolais $16.95 (130096) 13.0% alcohol
Savoury spice, floral notes and graphite aromas drift from this light- to medium-bodied Gamay. Clean and uncomplicated there are focused flavours of pie cherry and racy cranberry that wash over the plate throughout. The finish is zesty and lip-smacking good. Pour this with spaghetti Bolognese or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Vignerons des Cardiérrenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol’ Rosé 2008 

AOC Bandol $18.95 (119453) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There are spiced freshly picked strawberries and red berry fruit flavours on the perfumed nose of this generously textured fleshy Rosé—a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. The palate’s treated to a persistent fleshy stream of delectable, medium-bodied and sweet red fruit flavours with strawberry, ripe succulent cherry and nuances of ripe rhubarb. The finish lingers and layers on notes of red wine-soaked poached pear. Serve slightly chilled alongside smoked salmon on a bagel laden with cream cheese, sweet onion and capers. (VH)

Italy: Red Wine

Patrizi Barolo 2004
DOCG Piedmont $29.95 (653527) 14.0% alcohol
This is an extremely well-priced Barolo with lots of flavour and promise. Perfumed aromas of lilac and earthy notes introduce a fruit-filled mouthful of delicious and well-balanced flavours—bramble berry, pie cherry and spiced black plum come to mind. It’s well structured and underpinned by a firm tannin base. Drink 2012 to 2018 alongside a generous helping of osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)


Sartori Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2006
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $16.95 (117234) 13.5% alcohol
Marked by flavours of sweet jammy fruit and spice, they’re delivered on a bed of creamy texture framed by ripe and polished tannin. Look for plum compote, raisin tart and currants on the palate while the lengthy finish adds notes of zesty pie cherry tang for balance. Pour with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with currants, raisins and dried cranberries. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi ‘Vigneto Le Prunée’ Merlot 2007
IGT delle Venezie $16.95 (024505) 12.5% alcohol
Tommasi is a highly respected producer of bang-for-your-buck wine, no exception here. Beginning with a quiet nose of mixed herbs and espresso roast aromas, it shifts into high gear on the palate with warm, sweet and succulent flavours of black Bing cherry, mulberry and black currant that are underpinned by firm tannin. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and finishes in a blaze of pie cherry flavour on the balanced finish. Serve 2011 to 2016 or aerate/decant for two hours then serve with lamb tenderloins grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta Das Amoras ‘Colheita Seleccionada’ 2006
Vinho Regional Estremadura $12.95 (131862) 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, camphor and dark chocolate percolate off the nose of this medium-bodied well-textured blend. Sweet berry fruit—strawberry and blueberry—streams through the lingering finish. Framed by firm tannin, you’ll need a three-hour aeration/decant or time in the cellar as this will reach drinking age in 2011. The price is right and you can also tame this with beefsteak, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Ètim Selección 2006
DO Monsant $15.00 (681346) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few of these. A relatively newly minted region (2002) it forms a crescent around DOCa Priorat (just south of Barcelona). This is full of tangy and expressive dark fruit flavour—cherry, currant and bramble berry. It displays deft balance, seamlessly integrated oak, firm tannin and a lengthy finish that adds a dollop of dark chocolate and a hint of spice and herbs. Drink 2012 to 2016 congratulating yourself on this multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Lan ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (928622) 14.0% alcohol
Well structured and elegant, this will appeal to collectors and those simply desiring the experience of a finely tuned premium Tempranillo. Alluring rich aromas and flavours abound with copious amounts of kirsch liqueur, succulent boysenberry and red cherry melding with chocolate, mocha and toasted oak notes. It’s silky smooth, medium weight and framed by perfect balance and ripe polished tannin. The finish lingers, but you shouldn’t as this won’t stay on the shelf for long. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2015. (Vic Harradine)


Torres ‘Gran Sangre de Toro Reserva’ 2004
DO Catalunya $15.95 (315648) 14.0% alcohol
The nose on this richly flavoured beauty is dominated by exotic spice, leather and floral notes. The zesty flavours include pie cherry, red currant and mixed ripe field berry fruit. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a well-balanced finish of tangy fruit and espresso roast. Versatile with food, pair it with rich stews, pizza, lasagna or meat and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release: September 12, 2009

Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve Off-Dry’ Riesling 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of zesty citrus, crisp green apple and hints of spicy ginger waft from this well-balanced and fully textured white. Racy citrus, ripe pineapple and lemon chiffon pie flavours bathe the palate throughout. There’s wonderful balance between the sweet fruit flavour and the excellent moderating acidity. Pair with coquilles St. Jacques or a creamy cheese like Brie. (Vic Harradine)


Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006 

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina $17.95 (79293) 14.0% alcohol
Deep dark purple in the glass, it emits soft aromas of black licorice, tar and berry jam. Sweet ripe fruit flavours explode on the palate with mulberry, boysenberry and cranberry to the fore. The lingering well-balanced finish dishes out cranberry, toasty oak and sour cherry flavours. It’s medium bodied and fully textured, pairing nicely with burgers, pizza and lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: November 7, 2009

Château Guillou 2006
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion, France $18.95 (140483) 13% alcohol
Merlot predominant and from older vines averaging 55 years, this opens with aromas of toasty oak, rich dark berry fruit and nuances of earthiness. Look for ripe black cherry, mulberry and dark chocolate on the palate of this medium-weight, nicely textured red. It finishes lengthy with hints of leafiness and chalky tannin. Aerate/decant two hours then pair with something rich and hearty like osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)


Château Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Notre Dame’ Corbières 2007
AOC Corbières, France $16.95 (106518) 13% alcohol
Bewitching aromas of dark berry fruit, plum compote and garrigue—mixed herbs of Provence—drift from this beautifully sculpted Syrah/Grenache blend. Profound purity of fruit bathes the palate with succulent boysenberry, ripe black cherry and spiced black currant galore. It’s medium weight and smooth as silk showcasing a balanced finish of fruit and finely burnished tannin. Nudging five stars; don’t pass this up. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: November 21, 2009

Viña Tabalí ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2007
DO Valle dei Limari, Chile $16.95 (662692) 14.5% alcohol
Cool-climate conditions plus fruit hand picked into small containers, fermented in small stainless steel tanks and aged 12 months in French and American oak coalesce to produce this dazzling red. Cracked pepper and ripe mulberry aromas precede a well-balanced wave of succulent flavour with dark berry fruit, black Damson plum and racy Montmorency cherry predominant. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and finishes in a lip-smacking surge of spiced red berry fruit and chalky tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours then pour with strip loin grilled rare to medium rare, now to 2014. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Santa Digna ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Curicó Valley, Chile $14.95 (177451) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple in the glass, this expresses aromas of toasty oak, black licorice and copious amounts of black cherry. Medium bodied and generously textured, expect a gusher of succulent flavour with dried black currant, black Damson plum and cassis that attacks in wave after delectable wave through the lingering finish. It’s well structured, well balanced and well... delicious. A Vintages Essentials wine, it’s always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)


Gran Coronas ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
DO Penedès, Spain $18.95 (36483) 13.5% alcohol
A Vintages Essentials wine, it’s always available in select stores. Aromas of camphor, cracked pepper and spiced mulberry drift easily from this well-paced complex gem. A glorious rush of flavour washes over the palate with pie cherry, ripe boysenberry and kirsch liqueur predominant. Medium bodied and silky smooth, the lingering well-balanced finish is redolent of blueberry, espresso roast and black currant. The 12 months in French oak has been seamlessly integrated. Pair with a slab of back ribs grilled and slathered in a spicy bar b que sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune-Villages 2006
AOC Côte de Beaune-Villages, France $19.95 (47845) 13.0% alcohol
Meticulously handled—hand-picked Pinot Noir fruit, a year in French oak and egg white-fined—this opens with sexy aromas of rose petal, exotic spice and dried currants. Light bodied, well balanced and focused, it delivers a warm and balanced stream of red berry flavour with sour cherry, cranberry and currant predominant throughout. It finishes long, dry and refreshing. Perfectly paired with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (13904) 13.0% alcohol 

Rich and elegant, this top drawer Pinot from the fabulous ’07 vintage opens with complex aromas of wild berry, exotic spice and earthy tones. The palate is treated to wave after wave of well-balanced fruit flavour with ripe pomegranate, tangy cranberry and juicy black raspberry to the fore. Medium bodied and silky smooth, the finish is lengthy and luxurious. Gorgeous sipped on its own; it pairs perfectly with marinated grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers!

Vic.

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar