August 15, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from Chile followed by a feature on Burgundy. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure. 



Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• An embarrassment of riches – some outstanding wines in the Chile Feature
• Nine value wines – for $13.95 and less with two at 4½ stars are scattered throughout the newsletter
• Finding Waldo – find the bubbles in the Pinot Grigio
• Find Waldo again – find the wine transformed by simple deli fare

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Chile Feature

Chardonnay

Cono Sur ‘20 Barrels’ Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley, Chile $24.95 (127498) 13.5% alcohol
Vanilla, wood smoke and oak aromas rip off this robust fruit-filled beauty. Plush flavours of tropical fruit—pineapple, melon and hints of mango—meld with white peach and lip-smacking citrus. It’s well balanced with a silky smooth texture that glides effortlessly through the lingering clean crisp finish. Roast turkey or steamed lobster pair perfectly. (Vic Harradine)


Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley, Chile $22.95 (390203) 14.0% alcohol
The flavours are focused and racy in this medium-bodied nicely textured Chard. Aromas of toasty oak and tree fruit waft from the glass providing segue to a persistent stream of zesty citrus and ripe peach and apple flavours. It finishes with an added layer of savoury spice and tropical fruit. This sips well on its own or when paired with supermarket rotisserie-roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Cabernet Sauvignon

Laura Hartwig Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Colchagua Valley, Chile $13.95 (727495) 14.3% alcohol
This is very well paced and certainly well priced, worthy of a multiple purchase for summer barbecues—it’ll keep quite a while if summer doesn’t show this year. Look for rich and concentrated flavours of dark juicy Damson plum, succulent Bing cherry and sweet oak that wash over the palate and carry through the lingering finish. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it’ll provide optimum drinking now to 2014. Pour alongside elk or venison steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Rita ‘Medalla Real’ Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95 (275594) 14.5% alcohol
The aromas and flavours are rich, plush and concentrated with toasty oak, spiced currant, mocha and dark berry fruit among them. It’s medium to full bodied with well-integrated oak—12+ months in French barrels—a generous texture and enough tannin for structure and interest. The lengthy dry finish adds on notes of ripe mulberry and savoury herb. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Tabalí Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Limari Valley, Chile $14.95 (058446) 14.5% alcohol
One of the best-value wines offered in any line-up of fine Chilean reds, you wouldn’t go wrong with a handful. The Limari Valley is establishing itself as the go-to region for classy reds and Viña Tabalí deserves your attention. Ripe, succulent and rich this delivers a cornucopia of well-balanced beautifully structured and well-paced flavours—ripe Bing cherry, succulent mulberry and juicy spiced black plum. It’s medium to full bodied with a generous texture and fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)

Carmenère

Concha Y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère 2007
Rapel Valley, Chile $16.95 (030957) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty oak and savoury herb on the nose, this dazzling red washes over the palate with a wave of ripe delectable flavour—boysenberry, cassis and black currant—supported by polished tannin and moderating acidity. Perfectly balanced and generously textured, the finish layers on deftly integrated nuances of sweet oak and juicy black Bing cherry dipped in dark chocolate. The price-quality ratio tips in your favour, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Montgras Reserva Carmenère 2008
Colchagua Valley, Chile $12.95 (960542) 14.5% alcohol
Generous aromas of smoky oak and spice box mingle with hints of blueberry while the flavours are in the dark berry fruit and sweet vanilla zones. This is straightforward and well paced with medium weight and texture and flavours that carry through the medium-length finish. The tannin is perceptible, but acceptable—to completely tame them, pour alongside grilled strip loin done rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Carmenère 2005
Maipo Valley, Chile $18.95 (093831)
An expressive nose of tar, camphor, dark fruit and coconut—this was aged in American oak—segue a delightful mélange of rich succulent flavour carried along on a bed of satin smooth texture with black raspberry, juicy black cherry and kirsch liqueur to the fore. It’s medium weight with fine-grained tannin and moderating acidity providing structure and balance. The long finish layers on a delicious tangy pie cherry flavour. (Vic Harradine)


Terra Andina Carmenère 2008
Central Valley, Chile $11.95 (127522) 13.5% alcohol
Lovely on its own, this moves up a notch with food—as the Vintages catalogue suggests, pair with smoky grilled back ribs. You’ll find savoury spice, sweet dark berry fruit and black juicy cherry on the palate of this medium-weight, nicely textured, well-balanced red. It finishes dry with an herbaceous note. (Vic Harradine)

Burgundy Feature

J.J. Vincent ‘Champ Brûlé’ Mâcon-Villages 2007
AOC Mâcon-Villages $18.95 (127423)
Here’s a well-priced and fully flavoured white wine for summer enjoyment. This delivers a full set of richly adorned aromas and flavours with crisp Granny Smith apple, zesty ripe citrus, white peach and ripe pear among them. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured with a clean, crisp and refreshing finish. This is lovely on its own and equally enjoyable poured alongside pan-seared fresh water fish, trout or pickerel. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Segura Viudas Vintage Brut Cava 2004
Spain $18.95 (120956) 11.5% alcohol
My first taste of a vintage white from Segura Viudas and it was impressive. The expressive nose offers leesy and mineral notes and loads of baked apple aromas. There’s a good racy citrus attack on the palate along with crisp green apple and pear flavours that run through the dry crisp cleansing finish. A perfect welcoming wine, it also pairs well with oysters Kirkpatrick. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: White Wine

Wildass White 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (085100) 12.5% alcohol
Gorgeous, complex and well structured, it opens with a lifted nose of white flowers, tree fruit and minerality. The palate’s treated to a persistent wash of pristine flavour—ripe yellow peach, racy citrus and spiced apple and pear. It’s medium bodied with a satiny-smooth texture and finishes clean and refreshing with added nuances of spice. Pair with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula under a drizzle of lemon butter. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: Red Wine

Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (121715) 13.6% alcohol
Opening with a quiet nose of mixed spice and red cherry, this drenches the palate with sweet succulent black berry fruit and Bing cherry flavour. It’s impeccably balanced with seamless integration of oak, a dollop of moderating acidity and a lingering finish that layers on just a wisp of finely grained tannin. Pour alongside medallions of pork tenderloin with a spicy Asian-influenced sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Trumpour’s Mill Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 (122283) 13.0% alcohol
Light in colour and body, it delivers a lovely rendition of a lighter-styled Pinot Noir. There’s a focused stream of flavour with racy red cherry and red currant fruit mingling with spice and herbal notes. It’s well balanced and well paced with a fruity finish that layers on some spice-infused sweet red berry fruit. Pair it with cedar-planked grilled salmon. (Vic Harradine)


Burrowing Owl Syrah 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $48.95 (073072) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, this jumps with expressive warm aromas of rich berry fruit and sweet vanilla. It’s full bodied, fully textured and delivers a gusher of rich and concentrated flavour—cherry cordial, bramble berry and cassis mingling with spice and a bare hint of toasty oak. It’s deftly balanced with finely polished tannin, moderating acidity and a lingering fruit-forward finish. Priced fairly for a wine delivering this structure and flavour profile. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Delicato Viognier/Chardonnay 2008
California $14.95 (136390) 13.5% alcohol
Seems everything from Delicato—Gnarly Head, Loredona, Irony and Twisted are also their brands—is a winner. Read this winecurrent special feature on one of their winemakers. This abounds with flavours of white peach, honeyed apple and tropical fruit—pineapple and melon. It’s all magically balanced with crisp green apple and racy white grapefruit. Medium in weight and texture, it finishes clean and refreshing. The price-quality ratio is favourable, pick up a few and pour alongside grilled chicken. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2006
Carneros $34.95 (101816) 13.0% alcohol
Barnyard and forest floor aromas open this complex and well-structured Pinot. Expect a laser-like stream of persistent flavour—ripe cranberry, pie cherry, pomegranate and an armful of savoury spice. It’s mid weight and well balanced with a dry finish. There’s lots of life remaining and it’ll certainly improve in the bottle—more plush and expansive. Drink now to 2015, paired with coq au vin. It’s pricey, but worth it. (Vic Harradine)


Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $24.95 (331603) 13.5% alcohol
Carefully sculpted and brimming with flavour, the aromas are an amalgam of sweet vanilla, toasty oak and mixed spice. Concentrated flavours wash over the palate in endless waves of berry fruit—black currant, ripe cranberry and fleshy black raspberry—that meld perfectly with soft tannin and moderating acidity forming deft balance and a firm structure. The finish is lengthy and the wine deserving to be paired with a thick slab of strip loin grilled just the way you like it. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine



Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec 2007 

Mendoza $12.95 (746727) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Expressive aromas of ripe black fruit and spice box roll off this well-structured and medium-bodied red. This is rich and ready to drink with a cornucopia of flavours including black raspberry, cherry and kirsch liqueur. The lingering finish layers on espresso roast and date flavours. Serve with all manner of backyard BBQ fare—burgers, gourmet sausage or steak. (Vic Harradine)


Montes Alpha Syrah 2007
Colchagua Valley $22.95 (000612) 14.5% alcohol
The expressive and expansive nose overflows with aromas—mocha, tar, toast and dark berry fruit. The spice-infused flavours of black currant, dark raisin and sweet ripe boysenberry glide along a bed of silky texture framed by a solid underpinning of polished tannin. Mid weight and fully flavoured, the finish is lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed with garlic and rosemary. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Zilzie Chardonnay 2007
Victoria $17.95 (108027) 14.0% alcohol
We see too few Zilzie wines here, don’t pass this one up. Although it’s smoke and oak on the nose, it’s fully integrated in the wine and not over-oaked. This is chockfull of buttery plump Chardonnay flavour with tropical fruit, apple and a generous dollop of moderating racy citrus zest to keep it in balance. The finish is balanced and lengthy delivering spice-infused pear and green apple flavour. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (039537) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this hustles from the glass with forward aromas of spice cake, tar, fennel and black currant. Succulent flavours abound with dark juicy cherry, cassis, mocha and spice-infused black berry to the fore. It’s deftly balanced, mid weight and fully textured with a lingering dry finish of bittersweet chocolate, berry fruit and a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with marinated rare-grilled flank steak. Optimum drinking window is now to 2014. This is another tour de force by winemaker extraordinaire, Stuart Bourne. (Vic Harradine)


Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol
This wine missed the final cut for the $100 a bottle E&E Black Pepper Shiraz by a hair—you do the math. Overflowing with exotic spice, black pepper and licorice aromas, the delectable flavours—bramble berry, black juicy cherry and spice-infused mulberry—are delivered with incredible balance and a generous texture. There’s a long finish of fruit and savoury herb wrapped in firm tannin. You could drink this now after a two-hour decant, but to do it full justice pick up three, drinking every three years beginning 2012. (Vic Harradine)


Elderton ‘E Series’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
South Australia $14.95 (108043) 14.0% alcohol
Linear and focused, this delivers a mouth-watering shower of tangy pie cherry and cranberry flavour. It opens with aromas of spice-infused dark berry fruit and sprigs of leafy nuances. It’s medium bodied and textured with a lingering dry finish of firm tannin. This edges up a notch when served with grilled smoked pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)


George Wyndham ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Shiraz 2005
South Australia $22.95 (107904) 14.5% alcohol
A much be-medaled wine, it’s dark and brooding in the glass with whiffs of eucalyptus and mixed spice emanating from the quiet nose. This is full bodied, fully textured and mid weight delivering a solid core of ripe fruit flavour—ripe black currant and sweet bramble berry—melding nicely with nuances of toasty oak and black licorice. It finishes medium length and nicely balanced. Pour alongside rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


George Wyndham ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Shiraz/Grenache 2006
McLaren Vale/Barossa Valley, South Australia $22.95 (107961) 15.0% alcohol
Wood smoke and mixed spice aromas on the nose, the focused flavours—tangy pie cherry, racy red currant and cranberry—are present on the mid-palate. It’s medium to full bodied and nicely textured with drying tannin and the addition of rich sweet berry fruit on the balanced finish. Aerate/decant for two hours then give this a go with pasta in a tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol
Pungent aromas of gooseberry, racy citrus and herbaceous notes fill the senses. Lip-smacking flavours of gooseberry, crisp green apple, red currant and lemon flow through the clean and refreshing finish. It’s medium in weight and mouth feel delivering what we’ve come to expect from a well-made SB from Marlborough. Pair with salt and pepper calamari rings, lightly breaded and pan-fried in spiced olive oil. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

Salomon Undhof ‘Sal-o-mon Groovey’ Grüner Veltliner 2008
Krems $12.95 (669606) 12.0% alcohol
Offering pristine and lip-smacking flavour at a very favourable price; put a few in the cart. There are grassy, herbaceous and white peach aromas on the nose while the flavours are all about green apple, ripe pear and lip-smacking citrus tang. This is a great summer sipper to be enjoyed with seafood, chicken or veal—if summer remains AWOL, it’ll still work well with these pairings. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Mas Des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Blanc 2008
AOC Costières de Nîmes $13.95 (701094) 13.0% alcohol
Well crafted and carefully balanced, this opens with aromas of exotic spice, floral notes and honey. Tree fruit—peach, pear and apple—mingle effortlessly with moderating citrus tang on the medium-weight and nicely textured frame. It finishes with a surge of herbaceous and leafy flavour. This would be well paired with herbed and pan-seared Atlantic salmon. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château Courrière-Rongieras 2005
AOC Lussac Saint-Émilion $18.95 (125492) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a forward bouquet of toast, vanilla and dried fruit aromas, this delivers a well-structured mouthful of balanced flavour within a firm tannin structure. Look for sweet black cherry and juicy black Damson plum on the palate with nuances of bittersweet chocolate and spice on the drying grainy finish. After a two-hour decant/aeration, a T-bone grilled rare to medium rare would pair well. You could also cellar 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Château La Serre 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion $58.00 (501437) 14.0% alcohol
These ‘05s from Bordeaux are lovely, but most are in need of time in the cellar to develop fully. Sweet oak and ripe dark berry fruit aromas pour off this well-sculpted generously textured gem. The palate’s treated to a gusher of spice-infused flavour with cassis, black raspberry and dark juicy cherry to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied and wrapped in a firm tannin structure finishing dry and flavourful. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Château Roquetaillade ‘La Grange Vielles Vignes’ 2005
AOC Graves $21.95 (125666) 13.5% alcohol
Dark spice cake and black currant jam aromas segue powerful fruit flavours of kirsch liqueur, sweet vanilla and dried currant that mingle with moderating acidity and a grippy tannin structure. Rich and concentrated, medium weight and fairly textured this will reward patient cellaring—drink 2012 to 2018. The lingering well-balanced finish layers on nuances of oak, mint and earthy tones. (Vic Harradine)

Midi

Château de L’Engarran ‘Grés de Montpellier’ 2006
AOC Côteaux du Languedoc $18.95 (076299) 
Appealing aromas of toasty oak, exotic spice and dark berry fruit segue fully developed flavours of cassis, tar, black licorice and black berry. It’s medium to full bodied and nicely textured with a luxurious finish of sweet field berry and bramble berry. The tannin is ripe and imperceptible and the oak well integrated while the moderating acidity adds to the deft balance. It doesn’t get a whole better at this price point—grab a few before they’re gone. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine



Coppi Primitivo Peucetico 2001

DOC Gioia Del Colle $13.95 (724674)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Here's a great example of Italy's version of Zinfandel. The nose is a bit subdued but opens to reveal dried berries, coffee and mineral notes with a faint floral edge. Soft in structure but with enough tannin to balance the fruit, this medium-bodied style has good length and is a nice alternative to the many very alcoholic styles we see from this grape. This is approachable enough to enjoy on its own. At this price, snap up an armful (or two) to enjoy over the next few months. (Mark Tandan)


Santa Margherita Syrah 2007
IGT Sicilia $17.95 (028977) 14.5% alcohol
A relative of the ever-popular Vintages Essentials Pinot Grigio, this might stake a claim to be there, as well. Expect spicy earthy and floral aromas before being treated to a persistent stream of well-balanced flavour with pie cherry, mixed dark berry fruit and savoury spice to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and sports a long fruity finish. Pour alongside a generous helping of pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)



Banfi ‘Centine’ 2006 

IGT Toscana $16.95 (947440) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There’s considerable tang and zest in the flavours of this light to medium-bodied taut red blend—60% Sangiovese, and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There are red berry fruit aromas along with wisps of toasty notes that reflect the six months spent in oak. The racy sour cherry and red currant fruit flavours are still wound up with perceptible tannin. It’s medium textured and light to medium in weight with a dry clean finish. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)



Frescobaldi 'Tenuta di Castiglioni' Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese 2006 

IGT Toscana $21.95 (974394) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Opaque and brooding in the glass, this opens with aromas of spice, lilac and oaky nuances. There's plenty of tannin, oodles of racy zest and copious amounts of sweet ripe berry fruit on the full-bodied palate that fashion a lip-smacking mouthful of juice. It finishes with good tang delivered with a gusher of Montmorency cherry and racy cranberry flavours. Pour this paired with rare to medium-rare grilled pepper steak. (Vic Harradine)



Cantina Valpontena ‘Torre Del Falasco’ Valpolicella Ripasso 2006 

DOC Ripasso delle Valpolicella $17.95 (642421) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Slipping quietly under the radar screen, this offers good value to winecurrent subscribers as the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. This is gorgeous with aromas of coffee, chocolate and earthiness coupled with luscious and endless black currant and cassis flavours, a supple tannin structure and near-perfect balance. This robust and fruity finish lingers, make certain you don’t—run to pick up a half dozen or so. (Vic Harradine)


Villalta Ripasso Valpolicella 2006
DOC Valpolicella $14.95 (117242) 13.5% alcohol
This provides exceptional value; don’t hesitate in picking up a few for easy drinking over the next three to four years. The expressive nose gives off aromas of lilac, dried currant and raisin, gamy notes and hints of iodine. The well-balanced palette of warm flavours offers up Bing cherry, ripe mulberry and spice cake mingling with a generous ladleful of moderating acidity. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a drying finish. Perfectly paired with pasta and meatballs in a tomato-based sauce under grated Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Burgáns Albariño 2008
DO Rìas Baixas $18.95 (945063) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s a warm-weather favourite that’s just in time for summer—we live in hope...
Pristine aromas and flavours abound with copious amounts of racy citrus, minerality, herbal notes and spiced tree fruit. It’s nicely textured and light to medium bodied with a crisp and refreshing lip-smacking finish. Looking for a seafood dish, pair it with butter and garlic pan-seared or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Finca Sobreño Crianza 2005
DO Toro $18.95 (040360) 14.5% alcohol
An expressive and idiosyncratic nose of forest floor, exotic Asian spice, leather and gamy notes segue a lovely wash of intense flavours including dark field berry fruit and spice-infused black plum. This is medium to full bodied and generously textured sporting a nicely balanced lingering finish of sweet warm dark fruit flavour. This has the oomph to pair well with hearty fare; try it with osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)


Torres ‘San Valentín’ Garnacha 2007
DO Catalunya $13.95 (673541) 13.5% alcohol
Just like dessert they saved it for last and it’s the best-value wine in the line-up. Rich exotic spice and toasty oak aromas open up this fully flavoured gem from one of Spain’s top producers. Succulent and fleshy concentrated flavours of cherry, black currant and sweet kirsch liqueur wash in waves over the palate. Mid weight, balanced and generously textured, this crowd-pleaser finishes lengthy and full of flavour. Circle this and pick up a few to pair with all manner of grilled or roasted meat. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release: September 12

Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir 2006
Sonoma Coast, California $32.95 (140273) 14.5% alcohol
Crafted with care—hand-picked and sorted, cap hand-punched, bottled unfined and unfiltered after almost a year in French oak. Hugely perfumed, this opens with sprigs of spice, dark berry fruit, floral notes, hints of toasty oak and forest floor aromas. It’s medium weight, fully textured and bursts on the palate with a rush of fabulous flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and ripe pomegranate. There’s a lingering finish that showcases additional sweet berry fruit, finely grained tannin, well-integrated oak and a dollop of moderating acidity. Well balanced, well priced and well... delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Vallobera ‘Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja, Spain $28.95 (114314) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with a full rainbow of aromas—mocha, black licorice, cherry and sweet oak—this is lovingly sculpted and elegant. The persistent stream of flavour showers ripe Bing cherry, bramble berry and tangy black currant on the palate. Medium bodied and nicely textured it has a solid underpinning of polished tannin finishing dry and well balanced. Aerate/decant for two hours then pour alongside a generous cut of beef tenderloin grilled rare to medium rare. Drinking well for another decade. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release: October 10

Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez ‘Tinto Pesquera Crianza’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $30.95 (341461) 13.5% alcohol
The complex perfumed nose opens with tar, floral and spice aromas as segue to a gorgeous mouthful of rich palate-drenching flavours—black currant, succulent red cherry and spiced black Damson plum—that mingle with ripe tannin. It’s mid weight and fully textured with18 months in new American oak seamlessly integrated. Impeccably balanced and well structured, the finish layers on earthy notes and dark sweet berry fruit. Aerate/decant for two hours and drink now to 2018. Incredible value, you’ll want a bottle or two. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez ‘Tinto Pesquera Reserva’ 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $46.95 (323345) 14% alcohol
Mineral, spice and leather on the nose, there are tightly focused flavours of pie cherry, ripe boysenberry and red currant that form a persistent stream throughout. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and shows deft balance and good structure. There are glorious flavours lurking under the firm tannin structure—dark Belgian chocolate and ripe black juicy Bing cherry and good moderating acidity. It needs time, patience and careful cellaring allowing it to evolve into something special. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, New Zealand $29.95 (304469) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with lovely aromas of gooseberry, mineral and hints of honeydew melon that are not overly pungent. The laser-like flavours of ripe pineapple and citrus broaden on the generously textured palate with ripe peach and yellow plum to the fore. It’s medium bodied and well balanced finishing with a glorious gusher of mouth-watering tang. This is a new Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Barefoot ‘Bubbly’ Pinot Grigio Non-vintage
California $12.95 (106088) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and tropical fruit aromas reveal themselves on the quiet nose while the flavours dance on the palate in a lovely shower of glorious bubbles—lemony citrus, white peach and crisp green apple. It’s nicely textured and finishes crisp and clean. It’s perfect as a deck-sitting treat. The winery suggests adding a bit of pizzazz; try a splash of pomegranate juice or a dribble of cassis in the bottom of the glass before filling. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Patriarche Père et Fils Pinot Noir 2007
AOC Bourgogne $16.25 (23903) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of red berry fruit and cedar segue tangy flavours of red cherry, ripe cranberry and a gorgeous lip-smacking hit of spiced strawberry. It’s light on its feet with a generous texture and well-balanced finish. After entering these notes and rating the wine, it zoomed to 4 stars when tasted with pate, smoked sausage, creamy cheese and a baguette. Transformed by food—what a difference a deli makes! (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar