August 1, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines designated for ‘Hot Summer Grilling’ followed by a feature on Okanagan Valley wines. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• An even ten — 10 Ontario wines are reviewed—buy local, plus 4 from B.C.
• Another 10 — 10 wines for $12.95 and less are scattered throughout the newsletter
• Finding Waldo — Don’t miss the fabulous $11.95 Rhone red that earned 4½ stars
• Care for a winemaker and raconteur with that glass of wine? The inimitable Bill Hardy of Hardys Wines regales with his family history and impressive wines. Winecurrent was there to bring you the man, his fabled tales and wine reviews. Read more...

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Hot Summer Grilling

Maison Coquard ‘Clochemerle’ Beaujolais-Villages 2007
AOC Beaujolais-Villages, France $13.95 (129122) 12.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of spice and strawberry dance freely off this light-on-its feet nicely textured friendly red. Succulent and racy flavours of sour cherry and black raspberry form a persistent stream through the well-balanced finish. Versatile with food, this pairs well with assorted deli plates, antipasto and chicken fajitas. (Vic Harradine)


Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Merlot 2005
Columbia Valley, Washington State, U.S.A. $19.95 (263418) 13.5% alcohol
Look for a gorgeous rendition of Merlot here with its full-bore fruit flavours and silky-smooth texture. Delightful aromas of mocha, mixed spice box and field berry waft generously while the flavours are a glorious gusher of succulent black cherry, mulberry and juicy dark berry fruit. It’s medium weight with a lengthy luxurious finish that’s nothing short of lip-smacking delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Finca El Origen ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006 

Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (065664) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This100% Malbec is from their high altitude (+1000 metres) La Esperanza vineyard. Look for expressive aromas of coffee and forest floor with ripe juicy fruit flavours—black raspberry and black currant—gliding smoothly on the fully textured and medium-bodied frame. This is an easy-drinking red that provides good value. Pair with shepherd's pie. (Vic Harradine)


Babich ‘Black Label’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.95 (009142) 13% alcohol
Babich is family owned and operated delivering value-for-money well-made wine; a name you can trust. This is crisp and refreshing with a very generous texture and a dry and crisp, lengthy, well-balanced finish. It opens with pungent aromas of gooseberry and herbaceous notes then shifts into high gear on the palate with a rush of tangy flavours with gooseberry, red currant and passion fruit to the fore. Pair with lightly breaded skillet-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Grant Burge ‘Barossa Vines’ Shiraz 2006 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (738567) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) After a one-week fermentation, this wine was aged for 14 months in a combination of French and American oak. Instantly likeable, sweet black fruit, plum, cassis, vanilla and eucalyptus are present on the first whiff. Dry and medium bodied, the soft tannins and juicy acidity make this wine extremely easy to sip, just beware of the well-hidden 14.5% alcohol. Stewed blueberries and plummy notes make this wine easy to pair with steaks cooked more towards the well-done side. (Lindsay Groves)


Domaine du Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, France $11.95 (127167) 14.5% alcohol
This will knock your socks off with its succulent sweet fruit flavour, silky texture and unbelievable price; pick up a case for drinking over the next 12 months. Bright ripe cherry and floral notes drift off the nose of this medium-weight blend—Grenache and Syrah. Cassis, kirsch liqueur and sweet ripe black currant flavours mingle with spice and mint notes wending their way through the lengthy balanced juicy finish. (Vic Harradine)


Chateau St. Jean ‘Sonoma’ Pinot Noir 2006
Sonoma County, U.S.A. $24.95 (687970) 14.2% alcohol
This is marked by smooth mellow fruit-forward flavours and a richly textured mouth feel. Spice and espresso roast aromas segue a cornucopia of delectable flavours—Bing cherry, mint, cassis and boysenberry among them. The tannins are imperceptible, it’s nicely balanced and the lingering finish layers on a generous helping of pie cherry flavour with black pepper notes. Lovely on its own, it pairs particularly well with smoked duck breast over a bed of greens drizzled with sweet mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)


Robert Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Paso Robles, California, U.S.A. $29.95 (025205) 13.9% alcohol
There are tantalizing aromas of mixed spice, mint and cherries galore while the rich and robust flavours that roll over the palate in endless waves are all about sweet cassis, ripe blackberry and hints of mint. It’s underpinned by a firm tannin structure and framed by balancing tang. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes dry, well balanced and mouth-watering delicious. Pair with grilled and garlic-rubbed strip loin done rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Altesino ‘Rosso’ 2007
IGT Toscana, Italy $19.95 (658369) 13.5% alcohol
Smooth and straightforward, this delights with aromas of spice, mixed berry fruit and violets. Mellow flavours of blueberry, strawberry and pie cherry mingle easily with notes of herbs and mixed spice and remain silky in texture through to the fresh fruity finish. Sips well on its own, slightly chilled, or pair with a mixed deli plate. (Vic Harradine)


Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2006
California, U.S.A. $19.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, vanilla and tree fruit aromas drift off this gorgeously textured—buttery and silky smooth—medium- to full-bodied Chard. It’s flavourful and fruit forward—a mélange of tropical fruit, ripe lemon and green apple wash over the palate, along with hints of spice and vanilla. Nicely balanced, the finish lingers. This is a willing dance partner with roast stuffed chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine des Carteresses ‘Tavel’ Rosé 2008
AOC Tavel, France $16.95 (739474) 13.5% alcohol
Floral and spice on the nose, this is well structured with a rich and expressive flavour profile. Look for strawberry, mineral and red ruby grapefruit flavours that form a persistent mouth-watering stream through the lengthy finish. It’s medium weight, deftly balanced and finishes racy, dry, clean and refreshing. Perfect when paired with an antipasto platter. It’s very good value for a wine of this breeding. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley

Inniskillin ‘Okanagan Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $13.95 (127696) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of vanilla, hazelnuts, spice and toasty oak—from French oak barrels—mingle with nuances of pit fruit and floral notes. This is medium bodied with a fleshy texture and fruit forward complex flavours—ripe pear, crisp green apple and lemon-lime that are complemented by mixed spice. The finish is dry, refreshing and lengthy. It earned its final half star on its value-packed price. (Vic Harradine)


See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley, $20.95 (126912) 14.0% alcohol
You’ll discover aromas and flavours of oak throughout this medium-bodied generously textured wine. Flavours of citrus tang, apple and pear meld nicely with hints of ripe tropical fruit, especially ripe sweet pineapple. It finishes clean and dry with good racy tang. (Vic Harradine)


Sandhill Merlot 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (131896) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a great deal going on in this complex, mellow and smoothly sculpted beauty. Aromas of mixed berry fruit, black raspberry and spice box abound while the flavours wash over the palate in gently rolling waves of black juicy plum, kirsch liqueur and cherries dipped in dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied, satin smooth in texture and sports a lengthy finish that’s laced with dark fruit flavours and hints of espresso roast. (Vic Harradine)


Mission Hill ‘Family Estate Reserve’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $22.95 (126763) 12.5% alcohol
Super-ripe sweet succulent fruit flavours—bramble berry, mulberry and spiced black Damson plum—glide effortlessly on a nicely textured medium-weight mouth feel and frame. Polished tannin adds interest and structure while the well-balanced finish layers on a generous dollop of sweet cassis and spice. Grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed in rosemary pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

Angels Gate ‘Mountainview’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (116384) 13.5% alcohol
Apple, floral and spice on the nose, it explodes on the palate with a rush of nicely textured flavours—racy tangy citrus, ripe yellow peach, succulent nectarine and hints of marzipan. Sporting a nicely balanced dry finish, this medium-bodied wine finishes full of sweet ripe tree fruit. Lovely sipped alone, the wine not you, it also pairs well with grilled pork tenderloin, stuffed with dried fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Angels Gate ‘Old Vines’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $23.95 (116350) 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of toasty oak and sprigs of wild herb segue this medium- to full-bodied well-balanced Chardonnay. Lovely flavours of sweet ripe pineapple, apple, pear and melon are all discernible. It finishes lengthy with hints of well-integrated oak and yet more fruit-forward flavour. Give this a go with smoked chicken or turkey breast. (Vic Harradine)


Coyote's Run ‘Red Paw’ Pinot Gris 2007 

VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This offers a fuller body, creamier texture and more complexity than most wine made from this varietal; it’s more Alsace than Niagara. It showcases the terroir and the wine maker, it's simply outstanding. Aromas of spring blossoms and tree fruit segue a tropical fruit salad bowl of flavours with honeyed melon, ripe pineapple and mango predominant. There's also an element of citrus and spice on the deftly balanced and refreshing finish. This is a natural to be served with Alsace onion tart. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $16.95 (080234) 10.2% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Involved and expressive aromas of mineral, peach and floral notes form the alluring nose while the flavours are a huge gusher of flavour and zesty tang in the key lime and sweet and juicy pit fruit zones. It’s fully textured and sports a nicely balanced finish exhibiting that sweet and tang sensation that pairs so well with spicy Asian – try it poured alongside curried chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $14.95 (618827) 12.0% alcohol
This begins with a quiet nose of ripe tree fruit and mineral notes then really hits its stride on the palate with a glorious array of lip-smacking flavours that arrive in waves—white grapefruit, lemon-lime zest, sugared apple and sweet yellow plum. This persistent stream runs though the lengthy finish, ending with a mouth-watering hit of sweet and tang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. Pair this with Cambodian ‘Bang Kong Char Bonlea’ (shrimp and vegetable stir fry). (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Reif Estate Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (282889) 12.0% alcohol
There’s nothing shy about this delectable Pinot, it’s chockfull of ripe, dark succulent aromas and flavour with juicy Bing cherry, spiced black Damson plum and truffles to the fore. It’s well structured, nicely textured and sports a finish redolent of crushed dried cranberry. This shines when paired with grilled cedar-planked salmon. It offers good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)

U.S.A.: Red Wine

De Loach ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir 2006
Russian River Valley, Sonoma $29.95 (119024) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and robust, look for aromas of mixed spice, dark mixed field berry and toasty notes. Concentrated flavours of raisin and other dried fruit meld beautifully with finely polished tannin, brambly berry and handfuls of spice and herbs. It’s well balanced, and medium in texture and body. It finishes tangy and dry making it an excellent candidate to be poured alongside grilled lamb chops drizzled with whisky cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)


J. Lohr ‘South Ridge’ Syrah 2006
Paso Robles $18.95 (948240) 13.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, this releases aromas of spice, dark plum and black licorice, as well as lightly toasted oak developed from the 15 months spent in French and American oak barrels, 25% new. Richly concentrated flavours abound—a J. Lohr trademark—with sweet cassis, dark berry fruit and earthy notes among them. Everything is in perfect balance. It’s medium weight, generously textured and delivers a lengthy succulent finish. This is very good value and a worth a multiple-bottle purchase. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones - Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (017111) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Rich complex aromas rip from the glass of this well-structured generously textured beauty—black juicy Bing cherry, camphor and ripe boysenberry. It’s full bodied, richly textured and chockfull of delicious flavour with deep dark berry fruit and tangy black cherry to the fore. It received meticulous treatment—hand picked and 8 months in American and French oak. The finish lingers, but you shouldn’t as the word is out—this is divine. Delightful on its own, it pours well alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia Magna’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Syrah 2005 

Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is drop-dead gorgeous; run, don’t walk, and pick up a case. Drink now, after a two-hour decant and on to 2014. Crushed dried berry and dusty mineral on the nose it explodes on the palate with rich concentrated and succulent flavours of raisined dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and dollops of thick creamy black raspberry jam. It’s still underpinned by grainy tannin, but will soften with bottle age. It’s medium to full bodied, fully textured and delicious on the well-balanced lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)


De Martino Legado ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2006
Choapa Valley $16.95 (032136) 14.5% alcohol
Fruit from this higher altitude appellation—825 meters—is exclusive to this winery. Dark purple and bursting with flavour, you’ll experience aromas of toasty oak—aged 12 months in French oak barrels—and steely mineral notes. It’s medium weight and fully textured sporting concentrated flavours of ripe black currant, blackberry and juicy black cherry. There are hints of currant and raisin on the dry clean finish. It’s lovely on its own, with each glass leaving you wanting another. A thick strip loin grilled rare to medium rare makes it even better. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

d’Arenberg ‘The Money Spider’ Roussanne 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (656710) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with fig and floral aromas before showering the palate with peach pie, honeyed pear and spiced green apple flavours. These lip-smacking flavours carry through the lingering well-balanced finish. This is medium weight, nicely textured and a wine to be paired with sea food. Give it a go with mussels steamed in a white wine, cream and leek broth. (Vic Harradine)


Peter Lehmann ‘Clancy’s’ Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2008
South Australia $18.95 (118976) 11.5% alcohol
Gorgeous aromas of mixed spice and tropical fruit introduce this medium-bodied and well-textured blend—it’s a blend that’s popular in Australia. The flavours are both racy and clean with grapefruit and lemon zest, as well as sweet and succulent with sweet pear and ripe pineapple flavour. It finishes clean and refreshing with a steady stream of ripe citrus notes. Prawn ceviche would be a great meal companion. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Peter Lehmann Tempranillo 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (118984) 14.5% alcohol
This is bursting with flavour providing a fruity and generously textured imbibing experience. Aromas of red cherry and spice segue richly concentrated flavours of sweet black berry, ripe mulberry and kirsch liqueur. There are ladles of moderating acidity mingling with ripe fruit flavours resulting in perfect balance through the long dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Robertson Winery ‘Prospect Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Robertson $17.95 (787814) 15.0% alcohol
This is rich, dark and succulent as well as high octane. Warm aromas and flavours abound with dried currant and raisin, toasty oak, juicy black Bing cherry and cassis among them. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and sports a deftly balanced fruit-forward finish that layers on nuances of finely polished tannin and notes of truffles. Pair this with a South African specialty—boboti and yellow rice. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Château Doisy-Vedrines 2005
AOC Sauternes $32.00 375mL (500140) 14.0% alcohol
This is a beautifully sculpted dessert wine that opens with a perfumed nose of white flowers, mushroom and spice cake. It coats the palate with unctuous flavours of crème brûlée, honeyed pineapple and orange peel marmalade. Fully textured and surprisingly well balanced, you can enjoy this with fruit flan desserts or pair with foie gras. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château Chercy-Desqueyroux 2005
AOC Graves $23.95 (125518) 12.5% alcohol
Mixed spice and berry fruit on the nose, this delivers a solid core of flavour with sour cherry, black currant and mixed spice among them. It’s medium in weight and texture. It finishes with drying tannin and a layering of spiced plum compote and savoury herb. Drink 2012 to 2018 after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside grilled spiced pork chops. (Vic Harradine)


Château d’Aiguilhe 2005
AOC Côtes de Castillon $48.00 (501163) 14.5% alcohol
Deeply coloured and brooding in the glass, this offers up spice, mocha and dried currant on the nose before showering the palate with a gusher of succulent juicy black raspberry, Bing cherry and savoury plum flavours. It’s medium to full bodied and well textured delivering a lengthy dry finish of dark berry fruit wrapped in grainy tannin. This will provide optimum drinking 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Château Haut-Bergey 2005
AOC Pessac-Léognan $49.00 (502047) 13.0% alcohol
This is a huge wine—full bodied and fully flavoured. It announces itself with a lifted nose of aromatic bitters, currant and spice than shifts into high gear on the palate with a gusher of black currant and kirsch liqueur mingling with spice and toasty notes. This has more than enough of everything—fruit, texture, tannin, acidity—to portend long life. Drink 2012 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Château Le Conseiller 2005
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $26.00 (500322) 13.5% alcohol
This punches well above its price and earned its final ½ star because of it; pick up a few. Smoke, toast and spice on the nose, the rich and concentrated flavours are lip-smacking red cherry, succulent cassis and ripe boysenberry. It’s medium bodied, well balanced, nicely textured and sports a warm fruit-filled finish. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Les Pagodes de Cos 2005
AOC Saint-Éstephe $59.00 (501833) 13.5% alcohol
Smooth, mellow and straightforward, it delivers flavour in the red cherry zone on the mid-palate followed by notes of mocha and toast that follow through the lingering finish. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and finishes with perceptible, but acceptable tannin. This pairs perfectly with thickly sliced roast beef, cooked rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Burgundy

Duvergey Taboureau ‘Bourgogne’ Pinot Noir 2007
AOC Bourgogne $17.95 (127415) 12.5% alcohol
Light bodied and uncomplicated, look for racy cranberry, pomegranate and pie cherry flavours that mingle with finely polished tannin and spicy notes. The finish layers on more tang making it lip-smacking, racy and the perfect complement to meat-laden pizza or pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Rhone Valley

Château de Nages ‘Réserve’ 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (427617) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance swings in your favour; circle it in ink and tuck a few in the cart. It’s a well-structured blend of Grenache and Syrah. There’s a truckload of aromas and juicy flavours with cassis, bramble berry, coffee, currant, cherry and mixed spice among them. It’s well balanced, medium weight and delivers a lengthy nicely textured fruity finish. Sipping perfectly well on its own, it’s also versatile with food; give it a go with all manner of grilled red meat from steak to burgers, pizza or pasta in a meat and tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Domaine des Peirecèdes ‘Le Fil d’Ariane’ 2008
AOC Côtes de Provence $15.95 (950733) 12.5% alcohol
It’s light pink in colour, but don’t be fooled by that, it’s full of flavour and generously textured. Red raspberry and other red field berry aromas dance off this medium-bodied rosé. The flavours are in the ripe strawberry and sweet cherry zones—sweeter than most, but absolutely delicious when served well chilled as a party starter. (Vic Harradine)


Vinicoles de Samos ‘Anthemis’ Muscat 

AO Samos $12.95 (375ml) (653824)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A very perfumed nose (anthemis is Greek for bouquet) of almonds, caramelized sugar and Xmas cake spice oozes tantalizingly from the glass of this dessert wine classic. Flavours of candied ginger, raisins and spiced toffee are wrapped in good acidity that allow it all to hang together quite nicely. Drink this world class bronzed beauty well chilled, on its own or with spiced cake. Extremely well priced. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2008
DOC Süditrol—Alto Adige $18.95 (954024) 13.0% alcohol
Gorgeous floral and tree fruit aromas drift off this medium- to full-bodied generously textured gem. There’s a mélange of juicy flavour—peach, apple and honeyed pineapple—that surf along on a wave of crispy citrus notes. This is beautifully balanced throughout. Pair with pasta in a cream, scallop and prawn sauce or poached fillet of sole with Mornay sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Terra d’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, luscious and smooth, this opens with an involved nose of leather, espresso roast and dark and dried berry fruit. The tangy fruit flavours include, cranberry and black currant melding nicely with hints of mocha and tobacco leaf. The lingering and balanced finish layers on a delicious dollop of bramble berry and a bare hint of tannin. Coq au vin or traditional cassoulet would provide stellar table companions. (Vic Harradine)


Cantalici Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (125138) 13.5% alcohol
Floral, savoury spice and dried crushed berry fruit aromas drift from this medium-bodied well-textured beauty. The palate’s treated to a persistent stream of succulent juicy flavour with black cherry and pomegranate to the fore. It’s well structured and sculpted with just the right amount of moderating acidity and fine-grained tannin. The tangy dry finish is redolent of pie cherry with hints of citrus. Drink now after a two-hour aeration/decant and well into 2014. (Vic Harradine)


Castellani Chianti Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti $14.95 (970707) 12.5% alcohol
Worth a go, given it’s a ‘Riserva’ with five years of age and under $15. The subtle nose delivers lilac and berry fruit aromas while the flavours are all in the fruit, racy and tangy zones—red currant, cranberry and sour cherry. It’s medium bodied, lightly textured and finishes dry and refreshing. Pair with pizza or pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 

DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (999946) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Rich, spicy and earthy on the nose, this shifts into overdrive on the palate with a blast of sweet succulent boysenberry and cassis fruit flavours. There are also nuances of bacon, savoury notes and dense black licorice and tar. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and delivers a well-balanced finish. Sip on its own or pair with grilled red meats. The price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: White Wine

Adega Cooperativa de Ponte de Lima Loureiro Vinho Verde 2008
DOC Vinho Verde, Sub-Regiao do Lima $13.95 (681775) 11.0% alcohol
Clean, refreshing and racy, this light-bodied slightly spritzy wine embodies the essence and character of Vinho Verde—the perfect match to sea food to be enjoyed in the warm summer sun with convivial conversation and friends. It’s light bodied, nicely textured with a lemon and peach flavour through to the zesty finish. Everyone in Portugal gets it—both concept and wine—you should as well. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta Do Crasto 2007 

DOC Douro, Portugal $14.95 (81588) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Vinified from 4 of the premium grape varieties used in making Port, this must be one of the best-value, least-known reds in the Vintages Essentials Collection—the price-quality balance tips crazily in your favour. It opens with a tantalizing and perfumed nose of expressive aromas—spiced dark plum, dried crushed berry fruit and toasty notes. The rich balanced flavours are carried along on a ripe tannin frame and delightful spine of moderating acidity—black currant, fig, coffee and ripe mulberry. It’s medium bodied, well textured and sports a lingering lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spanish: White Wine

Torres Viña Esmeralda 2008
DO Catalunya $12.95 (113696) 11.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed with rosewater, lychee and exotic spice, this delivers a boatload of racy flavour with orange-lemon zest and snappy white grapefruit to the fore mingling with sweet pineapple and peach. It delivers that delightful sweet and tang finish. Long a winecurrent favourite, pick up a few for summer sipping and pouring alongside spicy or curried hors d’oeuvres. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

California

Beringer ‘California Collection’ White Zinfandel 2008
California $9.90 (239956) and 1500 ml $18.90 (60715) 10.5% alcohol
Strawberry and spice on the nose, this delivers an ultra-ripe sweet mouthful of fruity flavour with red raspberry, sugared and freshly sliced strawberry and hints of racy ruby red grapefruit. It’s an unpretentious blush wine that’s perfect for quaffing and pairing with lighter-styled appetizers and deli plates. White Zinfandel sales are 6 times that of red Zinfandel; it’s worth a try if you haven’t already. (Vic Harradine)

Chile

Viña Santa Rita ‘120’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Central Valley $10.45 (218644) 13.5% alcohol
When looking for the occasional alternative to that $7 red you’ve been drinking, here’s a beauty. It opens with dark berry and savoury herb aromas then delivers a delicious mouthful of sweet berry fruit—black currant and mulberry—mingling with pie cherry and minty notes. It’s medium weight, nicely textured with a long balanced finish. This is well structured and value-priced. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Santa Rita ‘120’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
DO Central Valley $10.45 (23606) 14% alcohol
This never fails to surprise and please. Opening with a beguiling nose of floral, mineral and herbaceous notes, it hits its stride on the palate with a satisfying wash of perfectly balanced flavour and texture—citrus, gooseberry and grassy notes gliding along on a silky-smooth bed of satiny texture. This is medium bodied and flavourful. There’s a splash (2%) of Semillon adding wonderful flashes of sweet honeyed pear flavour, especially on the refreshing finish. Delightful. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario

Rosehall Run Vineyard ‘Sullyzwicker Red’ 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (114686) 12.5% alcohol
This flavourful fruit-forward friendly blend—61% Gamay, 30% Cabernet Franc, 9% Pinot Noir—is vinified from 100% ‘County’ fruit. Look for lively aromas and flavours of blueberry, mixed red field berry and freshly pressed grapes. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a fruity lengthy finish. It’s built for casual drinking and pairing with comfort food—pizza, burgers and pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal

Aveleda ‘Charamba Douro’ 2007
DOC Douro $9.45 (78105) 13% alcohol
Vinified from four of the premium grapes used to make port, this delivers a complex nose of spice, dried crushed berry fruit, toasty oak and earthy notes. The mouth is washed with a wave of tangy zesty fruit flavour with red currant, cherry and cranberry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with good texture and there’s perceptible tannin and leafy notes on the drying finish. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour alongside a meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Aveleda Vinho Verde 2008
DOC Vinho Verde $9.95 (89995) 11.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of honeysuckle, pear and mineral notes open this beautifully textured crisp refreshing and well-priced blend—Alvarinho, Loureiro and Trajadura with the first two arguably the top grapes for Vinho Verde. The flavours are racy with lemon citrus and white peach predominant and they glide through the snappy lip-smacking finish. Pour on the patio alongside grilled or pan-seared garlic-buttered prawns—it’s a cut above many Vinho Verde. (Vic Harradine)


Aveleda ‘Fonte’ Vinho Verde 2008
DOC Vinho Verde $8.95 (5322) 10% alcohol
Mineral, citrus and white peach aromas introduce this Portuguese gem—it’s summer in a glass. Thousands of bottles per day are enjoyed in outdoor cafes from Lisbon to the Algarve. There’s spritz in the bottle and it tickles the tongue as it carries a delectable and mouth-watering stream of spiced green apple and white grapefruit flavour over the palate. It’s light on its feet, fairly textured and finishes crisp, clean and refreshing. It’s paired perfectly with grilled sardines. This earned its final ½ star on good value. (Vic Harradine)

Spain

Marqués de Riscal ‘Rueda’ 2008
DO Rueda $12.55 (36822) 12.5% alcohol
Racy aromas of mineral, citrus and herbaceous notes waft from this medium-bodied white wine. Sweet ripe flavours of peach and pear mingle with a firm spine of citrussy tang. It’s fairly textured and sports a dry, clean and crisp finish. This was built for summer quaffing and pairing with sea food. Give it a go with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula and under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Montecillo Blanco 2008
DOCa Rioja $9.95 (72058) 12% alcohol
Crisp refreshing and delicious, it’s one of those hidden gems lost in a sea of labels. Few look in the Spanish section when searching out a crisp dry white wine... pity. Apple and pear aromas are followed on the palate with flavours of crisp green apple, ripe Bosc pear and succulent Mirabelle plum. It’s medium-bodied, deftly balanced with a nicely textured mouth feel and a tangy racy finish of citrus zest. It earned its final ½ star because of its great taste and excellent value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Rosehall Run Vineyard ‘Cold Creek’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.5% alcohol
Lightly coloured in the glass, this opens with aromas of savoury herbs, graphite and earthy notes. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured with an explosion of tang and zest on the palate—sour cherry and pomegranate—mixed with toasty notes. It’s leafy and herbaceous on the dry finish with perceptible drying tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. Order (to be released September 4) mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run Vineyard ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.8% alcohol
This opens with soft beguiling aromas of vanilla, mineral and toasty oak—barrel fermented and aged sur lie, 10 months in French oak. The palate’s treated to a silky smooth wash of succulent fruit flavours with sweet ripe pear, yellow peach and spiced Granny Smith apple to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied and beautifully balanced finishing with notes of oak and mouth-watering tangy fruit flavours. Excellent now, it’ll be even better 2011 to 2014. Pair with stuffed roast turkey and all the fixings. Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run Vineyard ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12% alcohol
Subtle and charming, this beguiles with its delicate touch. From extremely low yields, less than half of normal, it opens with a quiet nose of red berry and mineral notes before delivering a lacework of flavour with ripe red cherry, spice box and red currant to the fore. The 18 months in French oak has been seamlessly integrated showcasing the hand-picked fruit. It’s all deftly balanced and finishes dry and delightful. Order (to be released September 4) mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall. (Vic Harradine)

Care for a winemaker and raconteur with that glass of wine?

The inimitable Bill Hardy of Hardys Wines regales with his family history and impressive wines. Winecurrent was there to bring you the man, his fabled tales and wine reviews. Read more...

Cheers, Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar