July 18, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from southern Italy followed by a feature on 4 single-vineyard Riesling wines from Germany’s Mosel region. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure.- The recession bites (sort of) — Recent consumer surveys indicate that as a result of the recent economic downturn wine drinkers have not reduced their overall consumption or turned to beer, but have scaled down the price they pay for wine. There are a number of lower-priced good value wines following the Main Release—e.g. a California Cab at 4 stars for less than $10.
- LCBO strike update — Union members across Ontario vote on the tentative settlement July 13, 14. If ratified by the members, it still must be agreed to by the LCBO Board of Directors and the Government of Ontario through an Order-in-Council in order for it to become a binding contract.
- Two 5 star reds — Two Aussie reds lit up the sky, each with 5 stars and both under $20
- Lucky number seven — Seven wines scoring 4½ stars and costing less than $20 are scattered throughout the newsletter.
- Finding Waldo — Summer’s arrived and there’s a fabulous Rosé reviewed—sipping well on its own and versatile in matching with food—that earned 4½ stars costing $13.95
Southern Italy Feature:
Feudi Di San Marzano Primitivo 2007
IGT Puglia $13.95 (120915) 14.0% alcohol
Smooth and mellow on the palate, this reflects the warm and lengthy growing season of southern Italy and the Primitivo grape a.k.a. Zinfandel. Look for aromas and fleshy flavours of sweet ripe black plum, wildberry jam and mixed spice. It’s generously textured and the luscious sweet flavours carry through the medium-length finish. Nothing complicated here, just delicious sweet fruit flavour. (Vic Harradine)
Gladiator ‘Primitivo di Manduria’ 2006
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $14.95 (023119) 13.5% alcohol
The hedonistic nose gives up a cornucopia of flavours with savoury spice, dark mixed field berry and black licorice among them. The crowd-pleasing flavours—kirsch liqueur, vanilla, ripe mulberry and black raspberry compote—mingle with a stream of moderating acidity and are framed by supple tannin. The finish lingers and is well balanced. This offers good value. (Vic Harradine)
Menhir ‘No. Zero’ Negroamaro 2006
IGT Salento $14.95 (123364) 13% alcohol
Rich in aroma flavour and body, you don’t have to be to pick up a few; it’s well priced. Aromas of mocha, tar and dark dried fruit abound while raisiny, currant and Bing cherry flavours wash over the palate. It finishes well balanced with a generous ladle of red cherry tang, chewy perceptible tannin and a solid core of fruit flavour. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour alongside a thick strip loin grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Messapicus ‘Riserva Salice Salentino’ 2005
DOC Salice Salentino $16.95 (121087) 13% alcohol
This Wine of the Month blend—80% Negroamaro, 20% Malvasia—nails the bull’s-eye. It’s loaded with rich, succulent flavours—cassis, brambly berry, espresso roast and dark chocolate—that glide along on a satin-smooth texture framed by moderating acidity. The lengthy well-balanced finish layers on mocha and mixed spice. This pours well on its own and is versatile with food; give it a go with grilled beefsteak, pasta in a rich meat sauce or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Santadi ‘Grotta Rossa’ Carignano 2006
DOC Carignano del Sulcis $16.95 (121137) 13.5% alcohol
Fruit forward and fleshy, this delivers a boatload of sweet ultra-ripe fruit flavour with mixed dark berry, spiced dark cherry and succulent black berry predominant. It’s generously textured and finishes sweet, fruity, warm and mellow. Place in the fridge 20 minutes before serving then pair it with pasta in an arrabbiata sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Odoardi ‘Savuto’ 2004
DOC Savuto $18.95 (121004) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of exotic spice, juicy black cherry and coffee drift off the glass of this medium-weight nicely textured blend—6 different varieties, 45% Gaglioppo. The flavours wash over the palate in endless waves with juicy bramble berry, succulent mulberry and ripe cranberry among them. It finishes dry, well balanced and lengthy with a healthy kick of savoury spice and gamey notes. This is looking for a spicy dish and pasta puttanesca is a great choice. (Vic Harradine)
Cantina Spadafora ‘Telesio Donnici Riserva’ 2003
DOC Donnici $24.95 (123539) 13.0% alcohol
This is gorgeous, a step up in price from most southern Italian reds, but worth it—it’s complex with good structure and deft balance. The lifted nose offers aromas of red fruit—cherry and raspberry—along with hints of licorice and mixed spice providing segue to a gusher of warm succulent flavours on the palate with more cherry, spiced black Damson plum and black currant. It’s silky smooth, medium weight and sports a tangy fruity finish wrapped in fine-grained tannin. Drinking well now, it pairs perfectly with all manner of red meat dishes. (Vic Harradine)
Fondo Antico Nero d’Avola 2007
IGT Sicilia $16.95 (121079) 14.0% alcohol
Fruit driven and friendly, this delivers a delicious mouthful of juicy succulent flavour. Aromas of leather and dark rich coffee blow off the glass of this medium-bodied red while the flavours are all about ripe dark fruit with Bing cherry, black berry and black currant to the fore. It’s nicely textured and delivers a generous handful of savoury spice on the medium-length finish. Pour with grilled gourmet spicy sausage or a meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Germany’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Feature:
Markus Molitor Riesling ‘Kabinett’ 2007
Präditkatswein Wehlener Sonnenuhr $24.95 (115634) 7.5% alcohol
Mineral, peach and pear aromas provide segue to this light-weight single-vineyard Riesling from Germany’s famous Mosel region. The palate’s treated to sweet tropical fruit, ripe pineapple and sugared apple and pear flavours that run through the medium length finish. Serve this well chilled as an aperitif. (Vic Harradine)
Max Ferd. Richter Riesling ‘Kabinett’ 2007
Präditkatswein Wehlener Sonnenuhr $24.95 (998120) 8% alcohol
The lifted aromas include brioche, mixed spice and lemon-lime chiffon pie filling. Persistent flavours of ripe pineapple and honeyed tree fruit—golden delicious apple and ripe Bosc pear—mingle with lemongrass and hints of spice. This is nicely structured, well balanced and delivers a lingering finish of mango and apricot flavour with subtle hints of ripe yellow plum. Enjoy on its own or paired with a spicy Asian dish like green curry chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Selbach-Oster Riesling ‘Kabinett’ 2007
Präditkatswein Wehlener Sonnenuhr $22.95 (114793) 9% alcohol
Slate and mineral on the nose, this offers ripe, sweet and succulent flavours of tropical fruit—honey dew melon and pineapple—along with yellow peach and ripe pear. This is medium weight sporting a lengthy fruit-forward finish. Serve well chilled alongside a peach or pear flan. (Vic Harradine)
Studert-Prüm Riesling ‘Spätlese’ 2007
Präditkatswein Wehlener Sonnenuhr $24.95 (114777) 9.5% alcohol
This is the 12th generation of the Studert family cultivating vines in this area since 1581. There are mineral and sharp spicy notes on the nose while the flavours are all about ripe tree fruit—yellow plum, ripe pear and juicy nectarine. This is medium weight with a silky-smooth texture and lengthy fruit-forward finish. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Dessert Wine
Torres Moscatel ‘Oro’ Non Vintage
Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This opens with fragrant aromatics of orange and honey followed by palate-coating candied fruit—pineapple, orange and apricot—and hints of cigar box. It’s quite sweet, almost treacle-like, but is held together on the finish with enough zest and tang to keep it from becoming too cloying. Serve it well chilled, as dessert, or with crème caramel. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Cordoníu Pinot Noir ‘Rosé Brut Cava’ Non Vintage
DO Cava, Spain $16.95 (665372) 12.0% alcohol
Raspberry and strawberry on the nose, these follow through to the palate with an additional hit of spice and red cherry flavours. It’s light on its feet, generously textured and delivers plenty of bubbles—it was made using the same wine-making techniques employed in Champagne. This is delightful served as an aperitif and has the oomph to be poured alongside lightly herbed and spiced appetizers, especially sea food. Good bang for your buck; keep a couple on hand for surprise guests as well as some for yourself. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (246579)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This opens with a burst of perfumed aromatics with musk, exotic mixed spiced box and hints of orange up front. This is medium weight and fully textured, almost creamy, with robust flavours of yellow peach, ginger and zesty citrus. There's a gentle wisp of sweetness from the ripe fruit that's balanced perfectly with the moderating citrus acidity. The finish is clean and refreshing portending a lovely food pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (043281) 9.5% alcohol
Aromas of lime and mineral notes abound on the expressive nose. The flavours are in the citrus zone—key lime, ripe lemon and white grapefruit—and they mingle with pronounced and delightful sweet ripe tropical fruit flavours producing an interesting sweet and tang experience. Sipping well on its own, this also pairs well with food; try a grilled kebab of spiced and garlic-buttered prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (116475) 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a joy to sip and shows great versatility when pairing with food – an outstanding wine. With notes of pineapple and white flowers on the nose, the mid-palate is treated to gooseberry and herbaceous notes while the crisp refreshing finish provides a shower of zingy lip-smacking citrus tang. It’s mid weight and generously textured throughout. Linguine with calamari and garlic or Caesar salad laden with grilled chicken strips pair exceptionally well. (Vic Harradine)
U.S.A.: White Wine
De Loach ‘California Series’ Chardonnay 2007
California $17.95 (959098) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a bucketful of intriguing aromas on the nose of this nicely built Chardonnay—floral, vanilla, spice and green apple to name a few. It’s a tangy, crisp and refreshing offering with flavours that coat the palate—pear, crisp green apple and citrus notes. You’ll find this medium weight with a texture as smooth as silk. The lingering lip-smacking aftertaste cleans up with hints of caramel and spice. (Vic Harradine)
U.S.A.: Red Wine
Beringer ‘Third Century’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
North Coast $23.95 (047704) 13.9% alcohol
Beringer never seems to disappoint, this opens with subtle aromas of mint, black berry and mocha. Juicy and succulent on the palate, there’s a solid core of ripe fruit flavour with black currant, Bing cherry and mint predominant. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with a lengthy luxurious balanced finish that reveals a firm tannin structure. Built for red meat, pair with marinated, grilled, thinly sliced flank steak. (Vic Harradine)
Beringer ‘Third Century’ Merlot 2005
North Coast $23.95 (045211) 13.9% alcohol
The quiet nose grudgingly gives up dark berry and espresso roast aromas. It gets down to business in the flavour department as a gusher of flavour washes over the palate—black currant, kirsch liqueur and oodles of spiced black Damson plum along with hints of chocolate. It’s almost full bodied, nicely textured with great balance, fully ripe perceptible tannin and a lingering aftertaste. Aerate/decant for two hours then pour alongside a rib eye, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir 2007
California $22.95 (101824) 13.5% alcohol
Rich fully flavoured and full of New World characteristics, this is gorgeous. Ample aromas and flavours of black cherry, Damson plum and tangy ripe cranberry echo from the palate to the lingering aftertaste. It’s medium weight, satiny smooth—almost creamy—and deftly balanced. It finishes fruit forward, dry and refreshing. Pair it with smoked duck breast sliced and placed over arugula lightly drizzled with mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)
Leaping Lizard Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $19.95 (127001) 13.5% alcohol
There are dark berry fruit, smoky and toasty aromas on the expressive nose and you won’t need Sandy to detect them. There’s good fruit flavour—cherry and spiced dark berry—seamlessly integrated oak and a ladleful of moderating zest and tang that keeps the finish dry, clean and refreshing... almost racy. Daddy Warbucks suggests Spaghetti Bolognese as the perfect dance partner. (Vic Harradine)
Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2006
Lodi $22.95 (942599) 14.5% alcohol
Discriminating Zin-lovers will want a few bottles of this; it’s well balanced and chockfull of fruit, but not jammy. Look for intense aromas and flavours of black raspberry and kirsch liqueur along with hints of juicy succulent Bing cherry. Medium weight and delicately balanced, this finishes tangy, crisp and lip-smacking good. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour, pick up a few for drinking over the next three or more years. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: White Wine
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Chardonnay 2007
DO Valle de Casablanca (928580) $14.95 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas rip from the expressive nose of this medium-bodied, generously textured gem. The delicious stream of ripe fruit flavour includes sweet pineapple, melon and yellow peach followed by a lip-smacking wave of citrussy notes keeping it all in good balance. The eight months in French oak has been seamlessly integrated—adding complexity, but otherwise imperceptible. Grilled or roast chicken pairs perfectly. Pick up a few; there’s excellent value offered here. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Gracia de Chile ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Rapel Valley $14.95 (093737) 14.0% alcohol
Full bodied and powerful, this delivers very good value, as well. Aromas of camphor and dried dark berry fruit open up an expressive wash of flavour—juicy black cherry, fig, mixed spice, toasty notes and nuances of mint. It’s smooth as silk and well structured as supple tannin provides structure and the moderating acidity adds balance. You won’t find many better reds at this price. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (108159) 13.0% alcohol
Pungent aromas of savoury herbs, passion fruit and herbaceous notes provide segue to a riveting and persistent stream of expressive flavour with white grapefruit, sharp lemon-lime and gooseberry galore. Wow! There’s a steady stream of racy tang and concentrated flavours providing a crisp, clean and refreshing treat. It’s lip-smacking good on its own and pairs perfectly with lightly breaded sautéed calamari. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Blackjack Shiraz 2004
Bendigo, Victoria $28.95 (095612) 14.0% alcohol
From relatively cool-climate Victoria, this delivers Aussie Shiraz with complexity and touches of elegance. Rich, complex and succulent flavour reigns supreme with brambly berry, exotic spice, ripe juicy black cherry and peppery notes mingling effortlessly with seamlessly integrated oak and fine-grained tannin. It finishes perfectly balanced, lengthy and luxurious with notes of spice cake and dark bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)
Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Shiraz 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $17.95 (108167) 14.0% alcohol
Look for expressive aromas and rich flavours of black berry, pie cherry and exotic spice that flows evenly through the lingering and well-balanced finish. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and brimming with class and complexity. This is a lovely expression of Shiraz from an area more known for Cabernet—it’s rich, juicy and succulent; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Pirramimma ‘Old Bush Vine’ Grenache 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (108068) 14.0% alcohol
Family owned and operated since 1892, their wines are rich and expansive. This is also warm and friendly with copious amounts of ripe juicy black fruit—cherry, currant and raspberry that mingle with nuances of spice and toasty oak. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with imperceptible tannin and just enough racy tang for balance. The finish lingers with added notes of chocolate and ripe black Damson plum. If you’re a fan of Grenache, don’t miss out on this. (Vic Harradine)
Tyrrell’s ‘Rufus Stone’ Shiraz 2006
Heathcote, Victoria $19.95 (091488) 14.5% alcohol
You’ll be hard pressed to find a more complex and elegant Shiraz under twenty dollars. This brims with stunning aromas and flavours with juicy and tangy Bing cherry, ripe sweet mulberry and spiced dark field berry. It’s medium bodied with a silky smooth texture that glides over the palate infused with waves of fruit flavour and deftly integrated tannin and oak. The balance is impeccable portending a lengthy and enjoyable imbibing window now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (680983)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Subtle aromas of mineral and herbaceous notes segue a pleasantly crisp and refreshing wine. There are good fruit flavours with crisp, lemon acidity and nuances of ripe yellow peach up front. The two provide good balance, and along with a medium-length refreshing finish, portend a lovely pairing with salt and pepper calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Two Tracks Chardonnay 2008
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (126854) 13.5% alcohol
This is deftly balanced, flavourful and richly complex. You’ll find a solid stream of crisp clean and refreshing flavours with white grapefruit, fig and Granny Smith apple predominant. It finishes crisp and tangy with a shower of savoury spice and citrus. This pours nicely on its own, in fact its lip-smacking good, but is also versatile with food as it pairs well with mussels in a white wine sauce, calamari or fresh water fish pan-seared and drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Ampelia 2005
AOC Côtes de Castillon $25.00 (500330) 13.5% alcohol
Lovely spice and floral aromas waft off the glass of this medium-weight nicely textured red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. There’s a steady stream of racy red fruit flavour with pie cherry, cranberry and pomegranate to the fore. The firm tannin is quite perceptible throughout. The finish is dry and tangy making it a willing partner with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Château Bourgneuf 2005
AOC Pomerol $59.00 (501296) 13.5% alcohol
The subtle aromas of toast, spice and berry fruit take some coaxing to reveal themselves. Flavours of savoury herb, sour cherry and black plum wash over the palate while the finish layers on sprigs of savoury herb and tapenade. The perceptible tannin will take some time to resolve. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and pour alongside grilled lamb tenderloin rubbed with savoury herbs. (Vic Harradine)
Château Siaurac 2005
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $28.00 (501395) 13.5% alcohol
This Bordeaux cellar dweller will reward patience; drink 2012 to 2018. Cherry, spice and toasty oak on the nose, this turns it on with a solid core of juicy succulent flavour with black currant, cassis and black Bing cherry to the fore. This is well structured with its underpinning of chewy tannin and balanced deftly by a generous dollop of moderating tang. It’s very well priced and a valuable addition to your cellar. (Vic Harradine)
Clos Puy Arnaud 2005
AOC Côtes de Castillon $45.00 (500686) 14.0% alcohol
The highly perfumed aromas deliver mixed dark field berry, exotic spice and floral notes. These follow through to the palate along with sour cherry and juicy black currant and black Damson plum flavours. It’s nicely textured and medium bodied within a perceptible tannin frame. It sports a lengthy finish with touches of savoury herb and herbaceous notes. Aerate/decant three hours, pouring with a garlic-rubbed strip loin grilled rare. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (983650) 14.5% alcohol
Exhibiting polish and panache, this opens with aromas of Asian spice and black currant tart. It rushes over the palate in waves of flavour—succulent black cherry, mulberry, black plum and mixed spice. Full-bodied and very generously textured, almost creamy, the lengthy finish layers on a ladleful of kirsch liqueur. The resolving tannins are perceptible, but acceptable, decant three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’ Côtes du Rhône Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages $19.95 (076331) 15.0% alcohol
This is a great bargain. Beguiling aromas of lilac, mixed spice box and licorice pour from the glass of this full-bodied hedonistic blend—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre—that was sourced from vines nestled up to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. A few metres this way or that and you’d be paying $50 or more for this. Robust flavours of succulent Bing cherry, cassis and brambly berry coat the palate through the lingering well-balanced finish. Scoop up an armful for enjoyable drinking over the next three years. (Vic Harradine)
Château Haut-Monplaisir ‘Tradition’ 2006
AOC Cahors $16.95 (673590) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a blast of dark berry fruit, new leather and toasty aromas, this delivers a rock solid core of cassis, cherry and berry fruit flavours that meld imperceptibly with a stream of moderating acidity and a firm chewy tannin structure. Medium bodied and sporting a well-balanced finish, this will pay good dividends when cellared and opened between 2012 and 20118. There’s excellent value here for the patient wine lover. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé
Mas de Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition Rosé’ 2008
AOC Costières de Nîmes $13.95 (950576) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a boatload of complex and robust flavours and aromas with ripe rhubarb, cranberry, freshly sliced strawberry and ruby red grapefruit among them. This is medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a lip-smacking finish that’s dry, crisp, clean and refreshing. Offering more body and rich flavour than most Rosés, it sips well on its own and has the oomph to pair with a variety of appetizers or lightly herbed and spiced chicken and veal. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: White Wine
Duca di Quadri Catemario ‘Collezione Privata’ Pinot Grigio 2007
DOC Friuli, Grave $14.95 (120782) 12.5% alcohol
From a wine world awash in insipid Pinot Grigio, here’s a flavourful priced-right offering. Honeyed pear, spiced yellow peach and enticing floral notes abound in the aromas and flavours of this delectable straightforward and honest white wine. Racy and refreshing, it’s medium bodied and textured sporting a crisp and dry citrus finish. This really shines with sea food dishes—try jumbo pan-seared scallops, in butter and lemon, over a bed of mâche drizzled with the warm lemon butter left from the pan. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Terre da Vino ‘Essenze’ Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo $44.95 (092460) 14% alcohol
Involved aromas of lilac, tar, licorice and berry fruit flit off the glass of this gargantuan red. There’s a gusher of concentrated and compelling fruit flavour—mulberry, cherry and black raspberry matching up well to perceptible tannin and a steady stream of racy acidity. This full-bodied cellar candidate has a long way to go with a suggested optimum drinking window 2014 – 2020. A lovely wine and, as well-made Barolos go, fairly priced. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Conde de Valdemar ‘Reserva’ 2003
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (947309) 13.5% alcohol
You’ll discover a sweet rich nose that displays lifted aromas of ripe dark berry fruit, toasty oak and hints of mint. There’s a gorgeous flavour profile with black juicy cherry, mulberry and dark chocolate. It’s very well textured and medium weight, with its underpinning of acceptable tannin and nicely balanced lingering finish. This is well priced given the quality and considering it’s been aged six years. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: August 29, 2009
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $18.95 (122267) 12% alcohol
This opens with a quiet nose of black plum and tell-tale Franc aromas of graphite. Racy flavours of pie cherry and ripe mulberry wash over the palate in a steady well-balanced stream. The lingering and lip-smacking finish layers on ripe cherry notes, and hints of sweet oak from a brief 5½ month barrel ferment and ageing in French oak barrels. This is 100% PEC fruit from an outstanding winery and vintage—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 12, 2009
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 (132928) 12.7% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of exotic spice, green apple and mineral notes provide segue to this ample-textured medium-weight gem. Pristine and focused flavours—ripe yellow peach, Granny Smith apple and tangy citrus—stream over the palate and through the balanced mouth-watering finish. Vinified from meticulously handled 100% ‘county’ fruit, it certainly deserves a place in your shopping cart. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Torres ‘Gran Coronas Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Penedès, Spain $18.95 (36483) 14% alcohol
The 15% Tempranillo in this adds a generous lift to the aromas and flavours. Dark cherry and leather on the nose, look for a gorgeous silky medium-weight wave of flavour—mulberry, mixed dark berry fruit and lovely spice notes throughout. It’s richly textured and sports a lengthy finish that layers on succulent cassis, and hints of toast and vanilla from 12 months spent in French and American oak. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in selected stores. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
California
Beringer ‘California Collection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $9.95 (113001) 13% alcohol
This opens with an alluring nose of dried crushed cranberry, red licorice and notes of black pepper. There’s a delightful sweet and tang aspect to this—sweet ripe cherry and mulberry on the mid-palate then racy tangy cranberry and pie cherry on the lingering finish. It’s medium bodied with a generous texture and long finish. It earned its final ½ star on value. (Vic Harradine)
Beringer ‘California Collection’ Pinot Grigio 2007
California $9.95 (112995) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral, spice and honeyed pear waft off the glass of this light on its feet summer sipper. You’ll be presented with a steady stream of tropical fruit and yellow plum flavour and a silky smooth texture. It’s medium weight sporting a medium length finish that layers on a nice touch of moderating citrus tang. (Vic Harradine)
Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $16.95 (68924) 14.5% alcohol
There’s good value to be found in this medium-weight silky smooth California Cab. Aromas and flavours of black currant, mint and licorice abound mingling with a moderating stream of bright red cherry flavour throughout the well-balanced finish. The ripe tannin adds structure and interest making it the perfect dance partner with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Chile
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Central Valley $12.95 (278416) 13.5% alcohol
Funky aromas of camphor, aromatic bitters, menthol and smoky notes rip from glass of this medium-weight nicely textured red. There are also loads of smoky notes on the palate along with cherry and mixed field berry notes. Framed by acceptable tannin and ample moderating acidity this delivers a well-balanced medium-length finish. This pairs perfectly with smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Carmenère 2008
Rapel Valley $12.95 (620666) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of Asian spice, black licorice and smoky notes bound from the glass of this well-balanced juicy wine. Cassis, and succulent mulberry flavours mingle with mixed spice on the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a lengthy fruit-forward finish that ladles on racy lip-smacking Montmorency cherry. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs well with grilled red meats. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Rapel Valley $12.95 (94060) 13.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of gamey and spicy notes provides segue to this medium-weight, medium-textured red. The initial attack is silky smooth and mellow on the palate with ripe cherry, black berry fruit and hints of cola. The tannins are a bit green and grainy while there’s a nice hit of moderating acidity on the finish. Try this with lamb or pork rubbed with fennel and rosemary. (Vic Harradine)
Germany
Gustav Adolf Schmitt ‘Winzertanz’ Non Vintage
Deutscher Tafelwein $9.75 (2147) 1 Litre 9% alcohol
This works out to $7.70 per 750 ml—that commands attention. This quintessential summer-quaffing blend—Muller-Thurgau, Sylvaner and Riesling—is low alcohol and inexpensive. Floral and mineral on the nose the straightforward sweet-ish flavours are all about lemon drop candy, ripe apple and succulent pear. It’s light on its feet and becomes a star when served, well chilled, as an aperitif in the warm summer sun. (Vic Harradine)
Italy
Ruffino ‘Fonte Al Sole’ 2007
IGT Toscana $12.95 (18994) 13.5% alcohol
Primarily Sangiovese with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a mellow and easy-drinking red. Look for aromas and flavours of cherry, mixed field berry fruit and hints of spice. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and sports a well-balanced finish. It’s straightforward and honest, fairly priced and versatile with food—what’s not to like? Pair it with pizza, burgers or ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino ‘Orvieto Classico’ 2008
DOC Orvieto $11.75 (31062) 12.5% alcohol
This catches your eye with its bright pale yellow, green-tinged hue and aromas of floral and citrus then captures your taste buds with a fruity mouth-watering shower of delectable wine. It’s light on its feet with lip-smacking flavours of freshly squeezed key lime, white grapefruit and ripe yellow plum. There are also hints of honeyed pineapple on the well-balanced finish. This is a summer sipping wine offering very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Open Cabernet2-Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (134957) 12.2% alcohol
‘Open’ is a new Ontario VQA brand with a focus on ‘ease’—easy to drink, easily paired with food and easy on the pocketbook. And, you won’t go wrong easing yourself into the weekend with a glass of it. There are loads of spice on the nose with hints of aromatic bitters. The solid core of ripe fruit flavour showcases cherry, blueberry and black currant on the palate. It’s well structured, nicely textured and beautifully balanced with a smooth and flavourful finish. Kick back and pour alongside a slab of smoked barbecued back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Open Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (140129) 12.1% alcohol
‘Open’ is a new brand pitched at the hip n’ happening crowd. Those of us thinking more about hip replacements can still get in on it—send one of the kids to pick up a bottle. It opens (no pun) with lifted spiced black plum aromas before delivering a mouthful of dark berry fruit flavours along with sprigs of savoury spice. Generously textured and deftly balanced, it delivers enough tannin for interest, especially on the fruity lingering finish. This earned its final ½ star on value. It pairs beautifully with supermarket take-away rotisserie chicken and friends—newly met or trusted companions. (Vic Harradine)
Open Riesling-Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (134965) 11.1% alcohol
Highly perfumed aromas of rosewater and exotic spice drift from the glass of this light- to medium-weight summer quaffer. The ultra-ripe sweet fruit flavours explode on the palate with tropical fruit and yellow peaches in syrup predominant. All this carries through to the finish mingling with notes of mixed spice. Serve well chilled as a conversation starter or as an accompaniment with fresh fruit dessert. (Vic Harradine)
Spain
Osborne ‘Solaz Rosado’ 2008
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $10.95 (622076) 13% alcohol
The brilliant pale red colour captures your attention—the aromas and flavours keep it. Strawberry and floral aromas provide segue to a succulent mouthful of flavour with full-bore red cherry, mulberry and mixed spice to the fore. This is medium weight, nicely textured and showing good balance throughout. It finishes lip-smacking good with a burst of tang and spice. Paired mine with tapas—Spanish potato tortilla with roasted red pepper and peas, chorizo and manchego puffs, and chorizo sautéed in red wine. (Vic Harradine)
Tapeña Tempranillo 2007
Vino Tierra de Castilla $13.95 (72942) 13% alcohol
There’s a carload of spice on the nose along with rich dark berry fruit aromas. On the palate there are fresh grapey characteristics with ample flavours of red berry fruit and spiced black Damson plum. The moderating acidity and tannin are well integrated making this a pleasant and well-rounded wine. It’s also food friendly pairing well with burgers, pizza and grilled gourmet sausages. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $18.95 (122267) 12% alcohol
This opens with a quiet nose of black plum and tell-tale Franc aromas of graphite. Racy flavours of pie cherry and ripe mulberry wash over the palate in a steady well-balanced stream. The lingering and lip-smacking finish layers on ripe cherry notes, and hints of sweet oak from a brief 5½ month barrel ferment and ageing in French oak barrels. This is 100% PEC fruit from an outstanding winery and vintage—what’s not to like? Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall. (Vic Harradine)
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 (132928) 12.7% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of exotic spice, green apple and mineral notes provide segue to this ample-textured medium-weight gem. Pristine and focused flavours—ripe yellow peach, Granny Smith apple and tangy citrus—stream over the palate and through the balanced mouth-watering finish. Vinified from meticulously handled 100% ‘county’ fruit, it certainly deserves a place in your shopping cart. Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall. (Vic Harradine)
Viewpointe Estate Winery ‘Barrel Fermented - Ideal Pointe’ Chardonnay 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $29.15 14.5% alcohol
Redolent of well-made, and much more expensive, California Chardonnay or fine Burgundy, this is gorgeous. The expressive aromas include vanilla, butterscotch, quince jelly and oodles of toasty oak. There’s a rich and compelling stream of delectable flavour with ripe Bosc pear, lemon zest and caramel apple to the fore. It’s medium weight with a silky smooth texture and lingering finish. Pour alongside roast chicken or turkey, stuffed and with all the fixings. Order directly from Viewpointe. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers,
Vic
Rating System
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
| Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |