June 6, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from various appellations in Burgundy followed by a timely feature on Rosés from around the world. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Challenge – rather than focusing on the price and stars from your favourite countries and regions, read the reviews from hitherto unexplored areas and purchase a couple that read like the type of wine you enjoy. It may open an entire new window to your wine world!
• Opportunity – following the main release are wines available from varied sources. It’s an opportunity to expand your purchasing landscape discovering well-priced quality wine of which you might not otherwise be aware.
• Responsibility – the law in Ontario regarding the legal alcohol limit when driving recently became less tolerant. To learn about it and arm yourself with valuable tips from the LCBO for responsible party hosting and attendance plus valuable tips in making your child’s Prom night a safe one, read Caring for Yourself and Others.

Burgundy Feature

Chablis

Domaine Chevallier Chablis 2006
AOC Chablis $23.95 (112227) 12.5% alcohol
Funky aromas of chalky minerality and ultra-ripe apple and pear introduce this light-bodied Chardonnay. There are flavours of sweet ripe apple and peach throughout that mingle with citrus on the brief refreshing finish. This is a pleasant sipping wine that also pairs well with roast chicken and pork tenderloin. (VH)


Pascal Bouchard ‘Beauroy’ Chablis 1er Cru 2007
AOC Chablis 1er Cru $36.95 (994350) 12.5% alcohol
The lifted nose delivers a roomful of aromas with green apple, ripe pear and mineral notes to the fore. The palate’s treated to a nicely textured persistent stream of quince jelly and lemon-lime zest flavours. It’s light to medium bodied with a crisp clean finish. Pair this with lightly breaded fried calamari. (VH)

Côte de Nuits / Beaune - Red Wine

Domaine Tortochot Morey-Saint-Denis 2006
AOC Morey-Saint-Denis $44.95 (714634)
Owner/winemaker Chantal Tortochot has revived this grand estate and fashioned a well-structured flavourful ’06. The quiet nose delivers cinnamon and toasty notes while the flavours are in the sweet red fruit zone—raspberry, cherry and strawberry. It’s light on its feet and finishes clean and crisp with a good underpinning of ripe supple tannin. It needs a couple of years if sipped, but it’s ready to go now with food. Pair with coq au vin or stuffed pork tenderloin. (VH)


Domaine d’Ardhuy Aux Clous Savignys-Lès Beaune 1er Cru 2006
AOC Savigny-Lès Beaune 1er Cru $39.95 (122515) 13.5% alcohol
The best-balanced, well-structured and flavourful wine in this group, it also offers good value. Aromas and flavours abound with red and black currant, spiced cherry and cranberry among them. The tannin provides structure, the acidity offers balance and the lingering finish is tangy and food friendly. Pair with smoked duck breast or Cornish game hen. (VH)

Côte de Beaune - White Wine

Château du Chassagne-Montrachet ‘En Pimont’ Chassagne-Montrachet 2003
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet $49.95 (110213)
The ‘Chassagne-Montrachet’ appellation is found in the Côte de Beaune area, world famous for its white wine. Ripe yellow peach, Mirabelle plum and mineral notes reveal the aromatic profile while flavours that burst onto the palate include Granny Smith apple, lemon-lime zest and spiced juicy pineapple. It’s medium bodied and generously textured while the balance is near perfect. The lingering lip-smacking finish calls for a pairing with pan-seared fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH).

Drink Pink - Rosés

Ontario

Cattail Creek ‘Serendipity’ Rosé 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (118059) 12% alcohol
Unusual, in that it’s 85% Riesling (a white grape) and only 15% red (Cabernet Franc), this still delivers a solid mouthful of red fruit aromas and flavours—ripe currant, strawberry and hints of raspberry. It’s loaded up with citrussy tang and zest with pink grapefruit predominant. Medium bodied, nicely balanced with a crisp finish, give it a go with tuna carpaccio. (VH)


Megalomaniac ‘Pink Slip’ Pinot Noir Rosé 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (085126) 12.2% alcohol
Floral and spice on the nose, the flavour profile includes freshly sliced strawberry and plum compote. It’s light to medium bodied, nicely textured delivering a lip-smacking hit of sour cherry on the lingering finish. This pairs well with a plate of deli meats and assorted condiments. (VH)


Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.50 (130245) 12.5% alcohol
Spice, mixed field berry and earthy notes roll off the nose of this well-structured Rosé. A cornucopia of flavour washes over the palate with rhubarb compote, strawberry and raspberry among them. It’s refreshing throughout with a generous texture and a well-balanced fruity finish. Great value, it earned its final half star because of it—pick up a few for summer quaffing. (VH)


Thirteenth Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Cabernet Rosé 2008
VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (117846) 12.2% alcohol
The lifted nose delivers aromas of mixed berry fruit, mint and herbaceous notes. It’s medium to full bodied with generous texture delivering a lovely mouthful of dark juicy fruit flavour—cherry and raspberry. The well-balanced finish is fruit forward and lingering. Lots of oomph here to pair well with grilled chicken breast strips strewn over Caesar salad. (VH)

New Zealand

Kim Crawford ‘Pansy!’ Rosé 2008
Gisborne, North Island $17.95 (650325) 13% alcohol
Spicy, crisp and refreshing, look for aromas and flavours of red grapefruit, rhubarb and cranberry along with spice and hints of black pepper. This stream of acidity and flavour is delivered throughout. It’s fully textured and quite appealing. Refreshing sipped on its own it also pairs well with prawn ceviche or gravlax accompanied by dill and mustard sauce. (VH)

France

Château La Tour de l’Évêque Rosé 2008
AOC Côtes de Provence $18.95 (319392)
Balanced, dry and crisp, this traditionally styled Rosé delivers involved aromas and flavours—handfuls of spice, ripe juicy strawberry and mixed field berry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and very well balanced. The finish is crisp, refreshing and medium length. This is a perfect marriage with scallops, pan-seared in butter and garlic over a bed of baby spinach. (VH)

Portugal

Fita Preta Vinhos ‘Sexy’ Rosé 2008
Vinho Regional Alentejano $14.95 (117077)
Almost 50% of this is vinified from the prime Port grape, Touriga Naçional, with Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It’s slightly off-dry lending itself to spicy Asian cuisine and deli food. Spice, earthy and mineral notes on the nose, there are flavours of sweet ripe strawberry and pink grapefruit on the palate and throughout the lengthy deftly balanced finish. Well made, well structured and well... delicious. (VH)

The Main Release

Canada: White Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
The quality-price ratio is well in your favour, pick up a few saving one or two for Thanksgiving and/or Christmas roast turkey dinner. Heavenly scented aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla bean, apple and pear waft from this medium-bodied, generously textured beauty. The mouth-filling flavours that drench the palate include sweet ripe pineapple, caramel, yellow peach and moderating citrussy zest. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lingering finish. (VH)


Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (112151) 13% alcohol
Opening with a quiet nose of tree fruit—peach, apple and pear—along with aromas of mixed spice, it delivers a crisp and zesty gusher of white grapefruit and lemon zest flavour that lingers throughout the finish. It’s crisp and refreshing, medium bodied and pairs well with grilled fresh water fish under a generous squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Rosewood Estates Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (112698) 12% alcohol
Binned apple, ultra-ripe pear and hints of mineral aromas on the nose, you’ll find a glorious gusher of honeyed tree fruit juxtaposed beautifully to lip-smacking citrus zest on the palate delivering that magical sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. This provides delicate balance and a mouthful of rich flavour. (VH)


Rosewood Estates Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (112169) 13% alcohol
This has pungent sharp aromas on the nose—spiced green apple, citrussy zest with some minerality. The flavours are predominantly white grapefruit with a lemon-lime bite that’s supported by nuances of green apple. It finishes medium length, dry and crisp. This was made for sea food, try salt and pepper calamari or grilled prawns. (VH)

California: White Wine

Eberle Estate Chardonnay 2007
Paso Robles $25.95 (115964) 14.5% alcohol
Warm days and cool nights—trademark Paso Robles area—helped fashion this beautifully balanced full-flavoured white. The floral-scented nose also has hints of sweet apple and pear. Look for expressive flavours of Granny Smith apple, citrussy zest and vanilla bean that follow through to the crisp refreshing finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and food friendly—pour this alongside take-away supermarket rotisserie chicken with a side of slaw. (VH)


McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2007
California $21.95 (658112) 13.5% alcohol
Winecurrent subscribers are familiar with this premium family winery—perennial favourites with releases through Vintages and consignment from Rob Groh Agency -The Vine. Very perfumed, it delivers a noseful of honeyed pear and sweet yellow peach aromas. The well-balanced and lip-smacking flavours deliver a persistent stream of ripe apple, Bosc pear and ripe lemon. It’s medium bodied, opulently textured and versatile at the table—roast chicken, pan-seared fish, or scallops and prawns work well. (VH)


Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006
Santa Lucia Highlands $44.95 (958975) 14.5% alcohol
The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA (U.S.A. system for defining designating wine areas) boasts one of the longest growing seasons in California—like the well-known Paso Robles area, it’s in the larger Central Coast region that’s marked by warm days and cool evenings. This hedonistic offering delivers expressive aromas of caramel, apple, honeyed pear and vanilla. Flavours explode on the palate with spiced ripe pear, toffee apple and tropical fruit among them. It’s well balanced, full bodied, satiny textured and finishes with a delightful surge of lemon citrus. It’s pricey and worth every penny. (VH)


Merryvale ‘Starmont’ Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $28.95 (027292) 13.5% alcohol
Merryvale’s ‘Starmont’ line is value and fruit driven with this no exception. Aromas of spice box, tropical fruit and vanilla provide segue for a gorgeous attack of mouth-filling flavours. Expect copious amounts of succulent pineapple, white peach, melon and nectarine flavours on the generously textured palate. This is medium bodied, impeccably balanced sporting a lingering finish that layers on spiced poached pear flavour. (VH)

California: Red Wine

Foley Rancho ‘Santa Rosa’ Pinot Noir 2006
Sta. Rita Hills $53.95 (060012) 14.3% alcohol
Sta. Rita Hills, rather than ‘Santa Rita Hills’, is the current name of this tiny California AVA after amicable negotiations with the Chilean winery, Viña Santa Rita. Hand picked from seven clones on steep hillside vineyards, this was carefully fermented with punch downs three times daily then aged 12 months in small French oak barrels, 25% new. This is well structured and oozes class with its aromas and flavours of black currant, mixed spice, black Damson plum and earthy tones. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a solid underpinning of firm tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours or drink 2011 to 2015. (VH)


Thomas Fogarty ‘Vallerga Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley, Yountville $44.95 (104232) 13.9% alcohol
Offering full-bore fruit, a serious spine of acidity and perceptible tannin, this holds it all together nicely on the palate and finish due to the near-perfect balance. Aromas and flavours of mint, dark juicy Bing cherry, mulberry and tangy bramble berry persist throughout. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and sports a lengthy finish that adds nuances of leafy notes. It’s aged and ready to drink over the next four years. (VH)

Argentina: Red Wine

Calafate ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Neuquén, Patagonia $16.95 (114702) 14% alcohol
Aromas of brioche, toasty oak and dark berry fruit galore as they open up this generously textured medium-bodied red. There’s a cornucopia of flavours that wash over the palate in a restrained and graceful fashion—sweet black plum compote, black currant and juicy black Bing cherry. The finish is lengthy, balanced and fruity. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pours well alongside beef tournedos with oyster mushrooms. Pick up a bunch. (VH)


Laurel Glen Vineyards ‘Terra Rosa’ Malbec 2004
Mendoza $19.95 (093872) 14.5% alcohol
This wine was made in Argentina from 60+ year-old Malbec vines, it’s often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, then shipped by sea in temperature-controlled stainless steel to be aged in California for 15 months in oak then bottled. This is a huge thick wine with gobs of tarry, dark fruit aromas and flavours with sweet cassis, black currant and ripe succulent mulberry flavours galore. There’s a nice stream of moderating acidity and the finish layers on some cola, mushroom and mocha nuances. (VH)


Zolo ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza $18.95 (081927) 14% alcohol
Formerly owned by Kendall Jackson, now by the Ortiz family, Zolo uses cutting-edge technology and sources fruit from cooler high-altitude vineyards. This offers an involved nose of mocha, vanilla, smoke and dark field berry fruit. It’s full bodied, rich and fully textured revealing a gusher of flavour in the black currant and kirsch liqueur zones. There’s good zest and tang on the well-balanced lengthy finish. Give this a go with grilled beef from the Pampas, or your local butcher if more convenient. (VH)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $21.95 (322586) 14.5% alcohol
This is gracefully structured with full-fruit flavours—bramble berry and boysenberry compote—along with nuances of espresso roast and mocha. It opens with aromas of mixed field berry and hints of chocolate and finishes with a generous squirt of sour cherry and deft balance. It’s quite opulent, medium to full bodied, nicely textured with an underpinning of firm tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (VH)


Viña Tabali ‘Reserva Especial’ 2006
Limari Valley $21.95 (197540) 14.5% alcohol
This outstanding red blend—70% Shiraz, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot—opens with an alluring nose of exotic spice, black currant and vanilla. It’s full bodied, complex, well structured and bursts forth with a wave of moderating tang and succulent fruit flavour with cassis, Bing cherry and black raspberry to the fore along with toasty notes from 18 months in French oak. The well-balanced finish lingers luxuriously. Pick up a few for special occasions and drink now to 2015. (VH)

Australia: White Wine

d’Arenberg ‘The Last Ditch’ Viognier 2007
Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (025064) 13.5% alcohol
Barrel fermented in old oak barrels, ‘The Last Ditch’ refers to a low-lying McLaren Vale Viognier vineyard. Expressive aromas of mineral and floral notes roll off the glass of this light- to medium-bodied tightly focused white. There’s considerable zest and tang from the citrussy zing on the palate and finish along with subtle notes of honeyed pear and green apple. It finishes crisp and clean suggesting a perfect pairing with pan-seared fish, prawns or scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

Australia: Red Wine

Glen Eldon ‘Dry Bore’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (054197) 14.5% alcohol
Mate, this is a ripper! It’s juicy, tangy and dripping with fully textured flavours—cherry, spice cake, vanilla and cassis with hints of black pepper and plum—not a bit over-blown or blousy. It delivers a medium-bodied, well-balanced and generous mouthful of Barossa Shiraz that leaves you wanting another, and another. The finish lingers and adds on a distinctive dark chocolate flavour. My highest compliment—it was difficult to spit. (VH)


Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (998476) 15% alcohol
Makers of the iconic ‘The Armagh” this is a few notches away, but delivers good bang for your buck at 1/10th the price—it earned its final ½ star on value. Eucalyptus, toasty oak and expressive red berry fruit aromas provide segue to this well-structured and evenly balanced Shiraz from the cooler Clare Valley. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a persistent stream of flavour through the lengthy finish—tangy red cherry, currant and minty notes. Grilled lamb tenderloins add to the experience. (VH)


Peter Lehmann ‘Mentor’ 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $42.95 (724336) 14% alcohol
Made only in the best years, it garnered a swag of medals in Australia with Gold and Trophy recognition recently being awarded—it’s just now coming into its own. Toasty oak, cola and mixed dark juicy fruit aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied gracefully executed gem. It’s richly flavoured—cassis, black pepper and chocolate minty cherry—fully textured and sports a lengthy well-balanced finish. It has a solid structure of tannin, some from 18 months in large French oak barrels, and delightful moderating acidity. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, or cellar until 2015. (VH)


Wyndham Estate ‘George Wyndham Founder’s Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet 2006
Limestone Coast, South Australia $23.95 (107912) 15% alcohol
Spending up to 15 months in French oak you’ll get whiffs of it off the nose along with dark berry fruit and black Damson plum aromas. This is straightforward and mellow with pleasant fruit flavours—mulberry spiced plum and dark cherry—that are ably supported by a firm tannin structure, a nice stream of acidity and well-balanced finish. It really shines with food, try grilled pepper steak. (VH)

New Zealand: White Wine

Ngatarawa ‘Silks’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (096636) 13% alcohol
Very expressive gooseberry and pungent herbaceous aromas are followed by a persistent gusher of tangy flavour with lively gooseberry, white grapefruit and lemon zest predominant. There’s good balance, a medium length finish that’s dry, crisp and refreshing. Steamed New Zealand green-lipped mussels in a white wine sauce will do very nicely with this. (VH)

South Africa: Red Wine

Kleine Zalze ‘Vineyard Selection’ Shiraz 2006
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (906081) 14.5% alcohol
Well known for the lodge and restaurant, their wine is also top notch. Smoky, toasty and dried crushed dark berry fruit aromas waft from this medium-bodied, gorgeously textured red. Look for rich and juicy succulent fruit flavour—boysenberry, sweet cassis and spiced black Damson plum—along with moderating acidity, supple tannin and a lingering finish. It’s drinking well now and will to 2014, especially with bobotie—an RSA curried meat dish. (VH)


Lady Anne Barnard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
WO Coastal Region $15.95 (101758) 14.5% alcohol
Earning its final ½ star on the value it offers, this opens with an involved and complex nose of cola, aromatic bitters, toasty oak and smoky notes. There are lots smoky oaky notes on the palate—it spent 16 months ageing in oak—along with chocolate, cherry and juicy black raspberry. It’s medium bodied and sports a firm tannin structure along with good moderating acidity for balance. Good on its own, it pairs well with gourmet sausage, burgers or pizza. (VH)

Austria: White Wine

Rabl G. Grüner Veltliner 2006
Kamptal $29.95 (117390) 14% alcohol
If you haven’t yet cottoned on to just how lovely these wines can be, take a punt on this. Extremely aromatic—honeyed caramel apple, pear and floral notes—it really gets into gear in the mouth with a full-bodied full-flavoured drenching of the palate with exotic spice, ripe apple and sweet juicy Bosc pear. This is well balanced, finishing dry and crisp with a shower of citrussy tang. It’s excellent with sea food, especially oysters Pernod. (VH)

France: White Wine

André Blanck et ses Fils ‘Schlossberg’ Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $22.95 (744995) 13.5% alcohol
Blanck is a trusted producer delivering value in each tier. Mineral and orange blossom on the nose, this well-focused white delivers a steady stream of white grapefruit, spice and zesty lemon flavours that intermingle with pineapple and melon on the lingering crisp dry finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and worthy of its Grand Cru breeding. Pair with pan-seared pickerel under a squirt of fresh lemon. (VH)


Francis Blanchet ‘Calcite’ Pouilly Fumé 2007
AOC Loire $23.95 (012013) 12.5% alcohol
Quite smoky and flinty on the nose, the flavours are carried along on a serious stream of crisp acidity with lemony tang and key lime zest to the fore. It’s light to medium bodied, fairly textured and finishes clean and refreshing. This is looking for a huge plate of freshly shucked briny oysters. (VH)


Lacheteau ‘Les Loges’ Vouvray 2007
AOC Vouvray $14.95 (525105) 11.5% alcohol
This still wine, most Vouvray is now made into sparkling, is slightly off-dry with the possibility to age another ten years. Aromas of flint and floral start this off as it settles into a flavourful and well-balanced imbibing experience. Tangy pineapple and zesty lemon reveal the yin while the yang is delivered on a stream of honeydew melon and guava flavours. The sweet and tang provides the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine. Picking up its final ½ star on value, it’s certainly worth a multiple purchase for delicious summer quaffing. (VH)

France: Red Wine

Château de La Dauphine 2005
AOC Fronsac $34.95 (121517) 14.5% alcohol
Fronsac is a Bordeaux sub-appellation that doesn’t attract attention or command high prices. Periodically, you can pick up an age-worthy quality wine like this one that’s well priced. Plum, spice and dark cherry aromas introduce this richly concentrated fleshy blend—80% Merlot, the balance Cab Franc. It explodes on the palate with pie cherry and currant flavour that carries through the lengthy finish underpinned by firm ripe tannin. Medium bodied and fully textured you can drink this now and on to 2014. (VH)


Château Haut-Bernat 2005
AOC Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion $34.95 (117622) 13.5% alcohol
From 100% Merlot grapes, this opens with lovely aromas of mixed spice and herbs along with black plum aromas. It offers solid fruit flavours with pie cherry and red currant predominant along with wisps of toasty oak. It’s medium in body and texture. This cellar dweller deserves another three years ageing as the chalky tannins are pronounced on the finish—drink 2012 – 2016. (VH)


Georges Duboeuf ‘Jean Descombes’ Morgon 2007
AOC Beaujolais $18.95 (946186) 12.7% alcohol
There’s a lot to like here and it starts with the nose—aromas of perfumed floral notes, freshly pressed grapes and midway candy floss provide segue to a pure expression of Gamay with fresh strawberry and black raspberry, hints of spice and floral notes galore. This is medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes fruit forward with a solid frame of dusty tannin and moderating acidity. Pour with roast chicken or turkey with all the fixings. (VH)


Château de Sérame ‘Réserve du Château’ Minervois 2006
AOC Minervois $22.95 (651125) 13.5% alcohol
This, in a word, is powerful, a blend of the usual red-Rhone suspects—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and others. Rich and concentrated flavours of dark juicy cherry and cassis mingle with whiffs of toasty oak. Medium bodied and nicely structured with ripe supple tannin and a lingering finish, this is looking for a thick slab of beef, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

Italy: White Wine

Jermann Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT Venezia Giulia $29.95 (117093) 12.5% alcohol
This distinctive wine distinguishes itself via its deft balance, silky smooth mouth feel and purity of flavour. True to its breeding, it delivers a lip-smacking surge of citrussy tang ably supported by copious amounts of exotic spice, crisp apple, sweet ripe pear and white grapefruit flavour. It’s medium bodied and delivers a lingering refreshing finish that layers on hints of mineral and toast. An elegant aperitif, it has the body and character to pair well with oysters Rockefeller. (VH)


Frescobaldi ‘Castello Di Pomino’ 2008
DOC Pomino Bianco $17.95 (065086) 12.5% alcohol
Expressive aromas of green apple, pear, mineral and mixed spice abound in this full-bodied nicely textured estate-grown blend—mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. This brims with fruit flavour and tang including spiced apple, tropical fruit—melon and sweet pineapple—and tangy lemon citrus. Pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried cranberry and apricot. (VH)


Astoria ‘Alisia’ Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT delle Venezie $15.95 (117226) 12.5% alcohol
There’s good value to be found in this lip-smacking gem. Expressive aromas of quince jelly and honeyed tropical fruit are a portend of the boatload of flavour on the palate—Granny Smith apple, pear and tangy, zesty ripe lemon. It’s light bodied, nicely textured and finishes spicy, crisp and full of verve. Give this a go paired with prawn ceviche. (VH)

Italy: Red Wine

Bricco Rosso ‘Dolcetto Di Dogliani’ 2006
DOC Piedmont $18.95 (705699) 14% alcohol
Straightforward and uncomplicated, this ‘organic’ red reveals aromas and flavours of black plum, fragrant floral notes and sweet cassis. It’s mellow and round with no harsh edges, finishing fruit forward and food friendly. Although pleasant sipped on its own, it marries particularly well with grilled medallions of pork tenderloin with root veggies. (VH)


Pio Cesare Barolo 2004
DOCG Piedmont $74.95 (736587) 14.5% alcohol
The expressive complex nose is armed with perfumed aromas of lilac, mixed herb and spice, truffles and toasty oak. Sleek and powerful, the flavours—black currant and black juicy cherry—are still wrapped in drying tannin. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and sports a lingering dry finish with added notes of espresso roast and leather. Pio Cesare is one of the doyens of Barolo and seldom disappoints. Drink 2012 to 2022. (VH)


Villa Cerna Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (121236) 13% alcohol
The ‘06 vintage garners press for being good-to-great, it’s also the first in which no white grapes were allowed in Chianto Classico, although small amounts of international varieties still are. This opens with aromas of cherry and spice then washes the palate with a continuous stream of tangy flavour—red currant, Montmorency cherry and earthy black plum. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes crisp and tangy making it the perfect foil to tomato-based cuisine like spaghetti Bolognese and meat-laden pizza. (VH)

Portugal: Red Wine

Montinho São Miguel 2007
Vinho Regional Alentejano $13.95 (114405)
This earned its final ½ star on the good value it offers. The alluring nose offers up wild berry fruit and a spicy nose while flavours are all about a perfect blend of balanced fruit—sweet cassis and sour cherry. It’s medium bodied and delivers a delightful lingering and tangy finish. This pairs well with summer and backyard party food like lamb kebabs or chouriço - a spicy Portuguese specialty sausage. (VH)


Quinta de Ventozelo Douro Tinto Reserva 2003
DOC Douro $22.95 (021329)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Like many good Portuguese reds, this wine is a blend of the premium grapes used in Port, and this house is a premium Port producer. There's no shortage of aromatics here with red cherry fruit, vanilla and sweet spices alongside a hint of menthol. It hails from a very hot climate, developing low acidity, but big ripe tannins give it nice balance and the fruit flavours linger nicely. This is a natural choice for rare beef filet tonight or braised lamb shanks in another 5 years. (MT)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 29, 2009

Château Castegens 2005
AOC Côtes de Castillon $18.95 (12586) 13.5% alcohol
This smooth red blend is Merlot predominant with Cabernet Franc and a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers aromas and flavours of cassis, sweet dark brambly berry and a moderating hit of sour cherry. The 12 months in oak has been seamlessly integrated and the mouth feel is silky smooth. This is well priced and very worthy of attention if looking for well-made Bordeaux at a more-than-reasonable price. Pour with grilled lamb skewers and roasted root veggies. (VH)


Vignerons des Cardiérrenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition’ Rosé 2008
AOC Bandol $18.95 (119453) 13.5% alcohol
There are spiced freshly picked strawberries and red berry fruit flavours on the perfumed nose of this generously textured fleshy Rosé—a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. The palate’s treated to a persistent fleshy stream of delectable, medium-bodied and sweet red fruit flavours with strawberry, ripe succulent cherry and nuances of ripe rhubarb. The finish lingers and layers on notes of red wine-soaked poached pear. Serve slightly chilled alongside smoked salmon on a bagel laden with cream cheese, sweet onion and capers. (VH)

New in Vintages

Quinta Do Crasto 2007
DOC Douro, Portugal $14.95 (81588) 13.5% alcohol
Vinified from 4 of the premium grape varieties used in making Port, this must be one of the best-value, least-known reds in the Vintages Essentials Collection—the price-quality balance tips crazily in your favour. It opens with a tantalizing and perfumed nose of expressive aromas—spiced dark plum, dried crushed berry fruit and toasty notes. The rich balanced flavours are carried along on a ripe tannin frame and delightful spine of moderating acidity—black currant, fig, coffee and ripe mulberry. It’s medium bodied, well textured and sports a lingering lip-smacking finish. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2008
Maipu, Mendoza $7.45 (11980) 13% alcohol
Following up on the wildly popular red and recently released Rosé, here’s their white blend – it’s now available in most LCBO stores. It’s smooth, mellow and nicely balanced earning its final half-star on good value. Look for tropical fruit flavours—melon and sweet pineapple—plus hints of peach and a lovely squirt of balancing citrus tang. Great for patio sipping and for pairing to lighter appetizers and mains. (VH)

Australia

Wolf Blass ‘Grey Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Langhorne Creek $34.95 (390872) 15% alcohol
Aromas of cinnamon, cloves, sweet oak—18 months spent in French and American oak barrels—and dark juicy berry roll off the glass of this full-bodied nicely textured perennial favourite. There are gorgeous gobs of fruit flavour with sweet black raspberry and Bing cherry predominant that mingle with sweet cassis. It’s nicely balanced and finishes lengthy and fruity with touches of mint. There’s perceptible tannin and good moderating acidity. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2014 alongside a slab of rare- to medium-rare grilled and garlic-laced strip loin. (VH)

California

Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Chardonnay 2007
California $12.95 (99408) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat and Riesling that encapsulates the Woodbridge brand—big bang for your buck. Look for ripe tropical fruit flavours—honeydew melon and sweet pineapple—and an ameliorating squirt of zesty citrus tang. Well balanced and nicely structured, this smoothly textured value-driven white finishes crisp and dry. Pair with friends on the deck or patio. It earned its final half star on value. (VH)


Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007
California $11.95 (40501) 12.5% alcohol
Mondavi is a name you can trust for wine delivering value at each and every price point. Aromas of honeydew melon, tropical fruit and luscious honeyed pear nuances drift from the glass. This is refreshing with crisp Granny Smith apple and grapefruit zest and tang reflecting its heritage from the cool-ish ‘Central Coast’ vineyards of California. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a crisp and refreshing lengthy finish. Pair with pan-seared fish and seafood or supermarket take-away rotisserie chicken. (VH)

Chile

Cono Sur Rosé Merlot 2008
Central Valley $9.95 (122481) 12.8% alcohol
Light-bodied and sprightly, this opens with aromas of strawberry jam, spiced black plum and mineral tones. There’s a boatload of sweet fruit on the front and mid palate—currant and sugar-sprinkled strawberry—that balances out nicely with a generous dollop of sour cherry tang on the dry, crisp and refreshing finish. This offers a world of value and matches up well with antipasto or lightly pan-seared tuna carpaccio. (VH)

France

Henkell Trocken Dry-Sec
Germany $13.85 (122689) 11.5% alcohol
This is Germany’s most-recognizable sparkling wine with over 15 million bottles sold each year. This has a frothy mousse and a nicely balanced flavour profile with sweet tropical fruit, peach and pear—a (2) on the sugar scale—that melds nicely with citrus and green apple tang. It works well as a welcoming sparkler also pairing with light sea food appetizers. (VH)


Henkell Trocken ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Dry-Sec
Germany $13.35 (122689) 12% alcohol
The ‘dry’ might fool you as this is a (3) on the sugar scale, but nonetheless it’s a very popular option amongst sparkling-wine lovers. It comes off well balanced and refreshing with aromas and flavours of green apple and ripe pit fruit—yellow plum and white peach—along with hints of lemon and grapefruit. A generous aperitif wine, it matches up well to a simple fresh fruit salad. (VH)

Italy

Frescobaldi ‘Castiglioni’ Chianti 2007
DOCG Chianti $14.80 (545319) 13% alcohol
This flavourful well-balanced blend—Sangiovese and Merlot—morphs into 5 stars when paired with food; try pizza, pasta or grilled burgers. There are expressive aromas and flavours of black currant, sour cherry and spiced black plum on the palate that’s underpinned by dusty tannin and generous acidity. The finish lingers offering a food-friendly red at a great price—pick up a few to have on hand for summer dining. (VH)


Masi Serego Alighieri ‘Podere del Bella Ovile’ 2005
IGT Rosso di Toscana $17.95 (73106) 13% alcohol
Aromas of dried savoury herb and wild field berry fruit waft from this delightful red blend—80% Sangiovese along with two indigenous varieties. The smooth mellow flavours caress the palate with red cherry, blueberry and rose-scented black raspberry predominant. It’s medium bodied, very well textured and sports a well-balanced lengthy finish of seamlessly integrated sweet oak and dark berry flavour. This is well-structured, offering good quaffing on its own as well as versatile food pairing. Pour alongside grilled red meat, oven-roasted chicken or sausage and pepper baked penne. (VH)

Ontario

Peninsula Ridge Shiraz 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (70052) 12.5% alcohol
Reflecting the great ‘07 vintage in Niagara, this opens with rich and ripe aromas and flavours of succulent black cherry, ripe black plum and black pepper notes. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and has a firm tannin underpinning plus good acidity for structure and balance. The finish layers on some leafy notes. Perfect when paired with roast lamb and mint sauce. (VH)

South Africa

Nederburg ‘The Winemaster’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Western Cape $10.90 (111526) 14% alcohol
There are blueberry, spice and toasty oak aromas on the nose before settling in to an expressive mouthful of flavour—smoky black cherry and good moderating acidity. There’s enough tannin to add interest and structure especially noticeable on the finish. Difficult to find a barbeque Cab matching steaks and burgers at the ten dollar mark, this one fits the bill nicely. (VH)


Nederburg ‘The Winemaster’s Reserve’ Shiraz 2007
WO Western Cape $10.90 (527457) 14% alcohol
Perhaps it’s an acquired taste as some love and others don’t care for that charred, smoky tarry aspect of some SA red wines. This one has it in spades, if a fan, pick up an armful. This well-textured Shiraz also delivers mulberry and bramble berry flavours and a lengthy finish. It pairs well with spicy gourmet sausages and is value-priced. (VH)

Spain

Segura Viudas Cava 'Brut Reserva' Non-Vintage
DO Cava $14.65 (158493) 11.5% alcohol
The grapes are different, it’s ¼ the price and it’s not from France, but if looking for a sparkling wine with some elegant characteristics of Champagne, this is it. It delivers a dry and refreshing mouthful of tangy flavour with ripe citrussy lemon and hints of ripe yellow plum and peach to the fore. The bubbles are fine and persistent and it finishes crisp and refreshing—just the ticket to welcome guests or pair with all manner of appetizers or hors d’oeuvre. Great value, stock up and keep a few bottles on hand. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Calamus Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.50 12.2% alcohol
A plethora of lifted aromas jump from the glass of this full-bodied, generously textured silver medal winner at the All Canadian Wine Championship. Exotic Asian spice, honeydew melon and honeyed pear aromas provide segue to sweet fruit flavours exploding on the palate—Mirabelle plum, poached pear and lemon drop candy among them. It finishes sweet and spicy with a bit of spritz. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (VH)


Calamus Estate Winery Riesling 2007
VQA Vinemount Ridge $16.40 11.8% alcohol
There are focused aromas of mineral, spice and herbaceous savoury notes that segue the crisp green apple and citrussy lemon and white grapefruit flavours. It’s medium bodied, well textured and finishes crisp and tangy with a key lime surge. This refreshing gem pairs extremely well with pan-seared tilapia under a generous squirt of fresh lemon. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (VH)


Colio Estate Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Ontario $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Alluring and lifted aromas of freshly sliced strawberry and ripe red plum drift off this medium-bodied nicely textured Pinot. There are well-defined tangy and juicy flavours of ripe rhubarb, red currant and pie cherry on the palate and they’re persistent through the balanced and lingering finish. This is well structured and provides good quaffing as well as a willing dance partner to Swiss steak. (VH)


The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Victoria Block’ Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $35.00 14.3% alcohol
This first vintage of their blockbuster premium range bodes well for their future as well as PEC in general—this rising tide lifts all boats. Aromas of vanilla, tropical fruit and honeyed pear introduce a persistent stream of warm, spice-infused flavours with green apple, ripe juicy pear, oak and vanilla-laced pineapple to the fore along with wisps of smoke. It’s medium bodied, silky textured and sports a lingering crisp finish of tangy citrus zest and toasty notes. Drinking well now, will improve in the bottle over the next three years. Purchase by the case, with daily home or office delivery, from The Grange. (VH)


The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Northfield’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $35.00 13.5% alcohol
This single-vineyard red opens with a nose of barnyard, spiced red berry, roasted herbs and earthy aromas. The flavours are persistent throughout—pie cherry, cranberry and sweet red and black raspberry. On the lengthy balanced finish you’ll find nuances of toasty oak and minerality. There’s perceptible tannin with medium body and a nice texture. Pair this with hearty red meat dishes like osso bucco or lamb stew. Delicious now, it’ll repay short term cellaring handsomely. Purchase by the case, with daily home or office delivery, from The Grange. (VH)


The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Diana Block’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $35.00 13% alcohol
From 100% estate-grown fruit, spice box, cola and heavenly scented spiced black plum aromas cascade from the glass of this medium-bodied well-structured Pinot. The focused flavours are a delectable amalgam of tangy cherry, ripe mulberry and black raspberry. It’s impeccably balanced with ripe tannin and a lingering fruity finish that layers on a hint of chocolate. To fully appreciate this wine, aerate/decant two hours before serving. Purchase by the case, daily home or office delivery, from The Grange. (VH)


Konzelmann Estate Winery ‘Late Harvest Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 13% alcohol
Rosewater and exotic Asian spice on the nose, this delivers a mouth-filling wave of flavour with spiced pear, sweet yellow peach and ripe apricot. This generously textured, nicely balanced wine reveals a lip-smacking finish of lemony citrus tang with a crisp lemon-lime bite at the end. This is perfectly paired with a spicy Asian dish like General Tso’s chicken. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Malivoire ‘Ladybug’ Rosé 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (559088) 13% alcohol
Predominantly Cabernet Franc plus Gamay and Pinot Noir, it’s flavour filled and well structured. Spice and red berry fruit on the nose—raspberry and strawberry—there’s a rush of refreshing flavour with red currant and cherry clafoutie to the fore. It’s medium bodied and generously textured. The finish is lengthy, crisp and lip-smacking good pairing perfectly with creamy cheese—brie, camembert—or lightly herbed chicken. Purchase by the case, with daily home or office delivery, from Malivoire. (VH)


Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 10% alcohol
Oh, my! What an exciting explosion of sweet and tang flavours delivering that zesty yin and yang of off-dry Riesling that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. The aromas are a gorgeous melding of spice box, minerality and honeyed tree fruit—peach, pear and apple. Flavours of tangy citrus, crisp green apple and lemon drop candy attack the palate. It’s brimming with texture and sports a lingering finish. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (VH)

Consignment Wines

Vinedos Terranoble Chardonnay 2008
Casablanca Valley, Chile $14.50 14% alcohol
For a wine that has spent only 3 months in the barrel, there’s a surprisingly firm oak nose backed by butterscotch and some tropical fruit. It’s full bodied on the palate with a creamy texture and a taste of butter and fruit. The balanced acidity helps carry the flavours through to a fruit-filled lingering finish. Enjoy this wine with scallops in a cream sauce. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Luigi Righetti ‘Campolieti’ Ripasso 2006
DOC Ripasso delle Valpolicella, Italy $TBD
This Ripasso has a very expressive nose of cooked fruit, leather and oak. On the palate it’s medium to full bodied, medium tannin and tastes of bold fruit and jam. There’s enough tart acidity to provide a strong fruity finish. Enjoy this wine with pork chops. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Luigi Righetti ‘Capitel de Roari’ Amarone 2005
DOC Amarone delle Valpolicella, Italy $34.20 (750mL) $18.20 (375mL) 15% alcohol
This budget-priced Amarone has a complex nose of cherry, raisin, cooked fruit and tobacco. It's big and chewy in the mouth with excellent acid balance and medium tannin. It packs a little less punch than your average Amarone, but you can enjoy a glass of it with roast lamb and raise a toast to the price. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Bonny Doon ‘Ca’ del Solo’ Sangiovese 2006
Monterey, California $TBD 14.5% alcohol
This wine introduces itself with a mixed nose of dry leaves, tobacco and jammy fruit. It’s medium bodied on the palate with tart raspberry and vanilla flavours with a long finish. There's plenty of tannin, which will let you lay it down for about 4 years. But the tannins are well integrated, so you can enjoy it now with pasta or medium-well roast beef. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot Triangle Vineyard’ Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario $30.00 12% alcohol
This wine has a lively nose of petrol and peach fruit. It’s slightly sweet on the palate with a medium body, good acid balance, and peach flavours. It’s a very refreshing summer wine that can be enjoyed now with grilled pork tenderloin or put in the cellar to let the flavours develop for a few more years. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Thirty Bench Riesling 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario $18.50 11% alcohol
This wine is made from a blend of grapes from Thirty Bench's 3 estate vineyards. It has a fresh nose dominated by peach and pear and accompanied by a slight waxy aroma. Refreshing acidity is balanced by delicate sweetness, a medium body and peach flavours. Drink it now with a spicy Thai meal or put it in the cellar and see if it develops as well as previous ‘Triangle Vineyard’ Riesling has. Available for purchase by the case from Thirty Bench. (DI)


Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario $35.00 13% alcohol
This wine has a ripe cherry and raspberry nose. You'll find big fruit on the palate with tart acidity, medium body, and slightly green tannin. A year or two in the cellar will help mellow the tannin or you can enjoy it now with steak grilled medium-rare. Available for purchase by the case from Thirty Bench. (DI)


Thirty Bench Red 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario $24.00 13.5% alcohol
A very pleasing blend of 40% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Cabernet Franc. This wine greets you with such a fresh nose of berries and spice that it makes you smile. It’s medium bodied with a big fruity palate of strawberry, raspberry and supporting oak structure provided by 12 months in French oak barrels. There are strong, but nicely integrated tannin making it very nice to drink right now—try it with medium-rare roast beef. However, a couple of years in the cellar will really make this wine shine. Available for purchase by the case from from Thirty Bench. (DI)


Mittnacht Klack Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace, France $21.20 12% alcohol
This wine has a nose with predominant aromas of mineral mixed with lime and green apple with the apple carrying through to the palate. It’s medium bodied with good acid balance and a long fruity finish. Can be drunk now, but is worth keeping in the cellar for a few years and then enjoying alongside shrimp pasta with a cream sauce. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Mittnacht Klack Pinot Gris 2007
AOC Alsace, France $23.35 13.5% alcohol
This is a delicious wine with a very expressive nose of orange blossom, orange peel and grapefruit. It’s full bodied and off-dry on the palate with citrus flavours and a hint of melon leading to a slightly bitter grapefruit-peel finish. This is a refreshing summer wine that would go nicely with smoked salmon or prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Mittnacht Klack Gewürtztraminer 2007
AOC Alsace, France $TBD 14% alcohol
This is a big Gewürztraminer with intense aromas of lychee, rosewater, lemon peel and spice. It’s full bodied and fruity on the palate with a sweetness just short of off-dry. It finishes with the orange-peel bitterness that’s expected of quality Gewürztraminer. Enjoy this wine with spicy-hot Thai basil-chicken or Panang curry. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Dowie Doole Shiraz Reserve 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia (approx) $30.00 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a Wow! Shiraz with a nose of black pepper, cherry, vanilla and eucalyptus with lots of cherry, plum, chocolate and spice on the palate. It’s full bodied with tart acidity and perceptible, but not very aggressive tannin. It’ll drink wonderfully this summer with spicy BBQ ribs, though you could cellar it for a couple more years. Available for purchase by the case from The Small Winemakers Collection. (DI)


Peller Estates ‘Signature Series Sur Lie’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario $30 13.5% alcohol
This wine was barrel fermented and aged on the lees for 12 months in a mix of new and old French and American oak. This provides the base aromas of toasty oak that underpins a nose of tropical fruit and apple. It's medium to full bodied on the palate with a creamy texture and pleasant tropical fruit flavour leading to a buttery finish. It’s a nice match for roast chicken. Available for purchase by the case from Peller Estates. (DI)


Peller Estates ‘Private Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 12.5% alcohol
There are some very interesting whites being produced from the 2008 harvest in the Niagara region and this wine is an excellent example. It has a subtle nose of honeysuckle, peach and apricot. On the palate it’s dry, medium to full bodied with fruit flavours dominated by peach. It’s refreshingly acidic and has a long fruit finish. A great summer sipper by itself or with oven-baked salmon. Available for purchase by the case from Peller Estates. (DI)

Cheers, Vic and Dave

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar