May 2, 2009 Vintages release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on wines from Tuscany, Italy followed by a feature on wines from California to coincide with the recent cross-country California wine fairs. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure. Many wines appear after the Vintages Release wines and are worthy of your attention.

Mark Tandan has thoroughly enjoyed this most recent stint as lead reviewer and thanks the many winecurrent subscribers for their support and emails. Vic Harradine is back in the country handling future Vintages Release tastings and reviews for winecurrent, and joins subscribers in thanking Mark for his excellent coverage.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Two wines that Mark feels vie for the absolute best-value in this release.
• The re-release of an Argentine red at $13.95 earning 4½ stars.
• New in the LCBO selections (following the Main Release) that provide exceptional value.
• Finding Waldo — Canada’s first biodynamic wine is found amongst wine following the Main Release.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Tuscany Feature

Rocca Delle Macìe Campomaccione 2006
DOC Morellino di Scansano $18.95 (969428)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Morellino a.k.a. Sangiovese is the grape while Scansano is a village on the coast of southern Tuscany. Light to medium bodied, this offers up aromas of cherry and earthy notes while the zesty and heady flavours are all about red pie cherry, cranberry and strawberry. There is also perceptible tannin making a three-hour aeration / decant advisable. It finishes spicy and zesty suggesting a pairing with pasta in an arrabbiata sauce. (VH)


Fassati ‘Pasiteo’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $24.95 (642009) 13% alcohol
This is a traditional-styled red with no ‘international’ grapes in the blend—95% Sangiovese with Colorino and Mammolo. Light bodied with adequate texture, it delivers a rich nose of lovely aromas—dark berry fruit and cherry. Interesting flavours of pie cherry, red licorice and mocha are supported by a ripe tannin structure and a firm spine of acidity allowing it to marry well with hard aged cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano. (VH)


Casa Emma Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG $19.95 (056952) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a nice impression on the nose of ripe black currant and raisin with intriguing notes of cola, sweet spice and vanilla. The palate sports medium acidity with soft tannin that supports the fruit nicely for great overall balance. This is medium in body and very versatile with food, from gourmet thin crust pizza through poultry in tomato sauce. (MT)


Marchesi De’ Frescobaldi ‘Montesodi’ Chianti Rúfina Riserva 2005
DOCG $59.95 (365536) 14.5% alcohol
Intense aromas waft from the glass—blueberry, cassis and kirsch. Black pepper, mineral and alcoholic warmth contribute complexity. In the mouth, ripe fruit flavours are evident and there’s a nice vein of acidity. The tannins are starting to resolve but still remain firm and chewy indicating this wine really needs about five years before reaching its optimal drinking range 2014 to 2020. This has great potential so be patient before enjoying with a premium cut of grilled steak. (MT)


Scopetani ‘Risasso’ Chianti Rúfina 2006
DOCG $14.95 (123430) 12.5% alcohol
This version can be enjoyed much earlier than the wine above; red cherry fruit, violet, sweet spice and a hint of bell pepper round out the aromas. Refreshing acidity carries the fruit and is further supported by moderate levels of tannin. The wine is well balanced today and is quite good value for a ready-to-drink Chianti. A simple pasta Bolognese will work well. (MT)


Fattoria Poggio Alloro Chianti 2007
DOCG $15.95 (123422)
Here one gets a sense of the herbal and earthy undertones that are often part of the Sangiovese aroma profile. The nose also includes red cherry and sweet spice with hints of tobacco leaf and red licorice. This is lively with high acidity and evident tannin. It will benefit from a good food match. Gourmet pizza with spicy sausage will soften the impact of the acidity and round out the flavours in the wine. (MT)


Tenuta Il Corno Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
DOCG $14.95 (123752) 12.5% alcohol
Not all Chiantis need several years in the cellar, neither are they all aggressively priced. Here’s a version that can be enjoyed today, but true to form will really shine when served with an appropriate dish. Enjoy sour cherry aromas combined with notes of cinnamon, tobacco and earth. In the mouth the wine is fresh with well-structured tannin. It carries medium body into a pleasant finish. At this price it’s worth picking up several to serve with veal parmesan. (MT)


La Castellaccia Chianti Colli Senesi 2007
DOCG $17.95 (124784) 14% alcohol
This is a lovely organic wine that comes highly recommended. The expressive nose features red plum, cherry and black berry fruit along with subtle aromas of vanilla and baking spice. Refreshing acidity offsets the fruit quite nicely for lovely balance. Coupled with very low tannin, this wine is quite pleasant to sip on its own. At 14% alcohol it’s fairly full bodied, but feels a touch lighter due to the lively acidity. This will suit lighter fare such as prosciutto wrapped asparagus. (MT)


Leonardo Di Vinci Brunello Di Montalcino 2004
DOCG $59.95 (097592) 13% alcohol
Brunello is a more serious clone of Sangiovese grown only in very select areas. The concentrated nose offers ultra ripe black cherry and dried fig aromas with a gentle earthiness that’s further enhanced by notes of both minerality and wild flowers. The flavours are carried by a good core of acidity yet big, mouth-coating tannin provides the majority of the wine’s structure. This shows good balance today but will reward further aging of three years and will pair beautifully with strong, firm cheeses. (MT)


Fattoria La Lecciaia Brunello Di Montalcino 2003
DOCG $48.95 (121905) 13.5% alcohol
The aromatic impression is very pleasant as it features dried fruit and floral character alongside savoury spice and notes of fresh mint. Resolving tannins and moderate acidity combine with the fruit to create excellent balance on this wine’s medium-bodied frame. The fruit and spice flavours carry through to a long finish and this wine is ready to drink tonight and over at least the next four years. Osso Bucco will do nicely. (MT)


Fattoria Di Magliano ‘Heba’ Morellino Di Scansano 2006
DOC $27.95 (123596) 13.8% alcohol
This wine offers a highly expressive nose featuring nearly candied red berry aromatics with notes of violets, baking spices and a syrupy character. It carries lively acidity with soft, persistent tannin to create excellent balance for the fruit. This medium- to full-bodied wine finishes long with great fruit relays. It’s drinking well today and will be best enjoyed with slow roasted pork tenderloin. (MT)


Col D’Orcia ‘Nearco’ 2003
DOC $37.95 (121251) 14% alcohol
The nose here shows evidence of the wine’s alcoholic warmth and searing hot vintage—blueberry fruit, red currant, milk chocolate and tobacco notes. This intensely aromatic wine is a fruit forward style that still maintains complexity. The initial impression in the mouth is one of juiciness as the lively acidity combines with the alcohol. The fine tannin creates great balance on the finish. This is a full-bodied style, quite rich, and would make a great partner for braised loin of bison. (MT)


Fattoria Le Pupille ‘Saffredi’ 2004
IGT Maremma Toscana $114.95 (074435) 14% alcohol
This wine has an intriguing nose of red cherry fruit combined with floral notes, smoked meat and underlying scents of vanilla and black pepper. A nice core of acidity is present, but understated as big, ripe tannin provides structure. This full-bodied wine could use a few years for those tannins to resolve, but if you wish you could enjoy it young with rare grilled steak. (MT)

Feature: Quintessential California

California is home to some iconic ‘cult’ wines and is becoming more and more a source of good value for premium products. An excess of production and a slump in the global economy has caused a number of producers to lower prices and this means more for your wine-buying dollar.


Frog’s Leap Chardonnay 2007
Napa Valley $39.95 (713552) 13.4% alcohol
Caramel and cinnamon spice combine with aromas of yellow apple, pear and cream on this rich Chardonnay. Moderate acidity helps to carry the fruit flavor on the palate, and a touch of creaminess is evident on the finish. This medium- to full-bodied style features both a rich fruit profile and food friendly freshness. Enjoy with seared scallops. (MT)


Acacia Chardonnay 2007
Carneros $36.95 (080556) 14.4% alcohol
Concentrated aromas include pineapple, peach, toasted oak and butter with a touch of nuttiness. A creamy mid palate provides mouth-filling texture, yet there’s still sufficient acidity to balance the fruit. This wine is full bodied and warm, with good balance and length. For the carnivore, this has more than enough stuffing for roasted rack of lamb. (MT)


Scott Family Estate ‘Dijon Clone’ Chardonnay 2006
Monterey $24.95 (099051) 13.5% alcohol
The rich aromas include banana, melon and yellow apple fruits with butterscotch, toasted oak and fresh butter. Refreshing acidity combines with green apple flavours in the mouth and this medium-bodied style sports good balance and length. It’s lively enough to enjoy on its own or could be paired with seared tilapia. (MT)


Sterling Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $24.95 (330233)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Scoring highly on the Wow! meter, it also displays some elegant nuances. Brioche, vanilla and smoky on the nose, the fruit gets into high gear by attacking the palate in velvety textured waves with tropical fruit, peach, citrus and green apple to the fore. Incredible balance and a lengthy finish portend a healthy four to five year drinking window. Pair with lobster bisque. This is a Winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)


Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $89.95 (222877) 14.8% alcohol
This highly concentrated wine offers ripe cassis and blueberry aromas with notes of black pepper and leather. Initially it’s full of fruit character in the mouth, then big, voluptuous tannins appear to provide more than enough structure. This full-bodied behemoth really needs four or more years to achieve optimal balance and will drink well into 2018. Be sure to decant before enjoying with grilled venison medallions. (MT)


Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa/Mendocino/Sonoma Counties $32.95 (118950) 14.4% alcohol
Cassis aromas intermingle with tobacco, smoke, cedar and dark chocolate to form the full aromatic profile of this well-made Cabernet. In the mouth, it’s velvety smooth with ripe resolving tannin that coats the palate. This is full bodied and ready to drink, but will easily last another four years. Enjoy with rare grilled red meats. (MT)


Dominus Estate ‘Napanook’ 2005
Napa Valley $53.95 (063065) 14.1% alcohol
This is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot). It’s quite intense, offering aromas of dark fruit, Bing cherry, spicy tobacco and new leather. Ultra ripe fruit flavours reappear on the palate along with pleasing acidity and big, very ripe tannin providing structure. This is full in body and long in finish promising to become even more complex after a few years in your cellar. Enjoy with firm cheeses or grilled strip loin. (MT)


Sanctuary Usibelli Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $34.95 (095372) 14% alcohol
Expect classic Cabernet aromas of cassis with a touch of bell pepper and notes of black pepper and oak on this well-structured Cabernet. This full-bodied red has velvety, mouth-coating tannin to provide ample balance for the copious fruit character. It also provides a pleasingly long finish. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. (MT)


Rodney Strong ‘Knotty Vines’ Zinfandel 2006
Sonoma County $26.95 (363358) 14.8% alcohol
‘Knotty Vines’ refers to the appearance of aged grape vines which can become gnarled over time. The vines that produce this Zinfandel are about 100 years old and the result is very intense, pure fruit flavour. Aromas of blueberry, strawberry jam, black pepper and milk chocolate are quite expressive. This wine is high in alcohol and acidity creating a juicy feel in the mouth. Soft ripe tannin make this easy drinking and this is just the thing for grilled back ribs in a sweet barbeque glaze. (MT)


Duckhorn Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $63.95 (992529) 14.5% alcohol
Expect intense aromas of black and red plums, blueberry, milk chocolate and a subtle floral note underneath. There’s great depth on the palate with wonderfully ripe tannin balancing all the fruit, and still sufficient acidity to help sustain a long finish. This full-bodied Merlot will cellar quite well for at least five years and can be enjoyed with duck Bolognese—the winery has a recipe on their website. (MT)


Keltie Brook Merlot 2004
North Coast, California $23.95 (104141) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a gorgeous Merlot from MacRostie Winery and Vineyards. This wine has a big fruit nose with layers of musty earth and a touch of spice. It’s silky smooth on the palate with a medium body and flavours of chocolate and blackberry jam. There are still tannins to spare, if you want to cellar this for a few more years, but the tannins are beautifully integrated making this wine ready to drink right now. Enjoy it with a medium-rare pepper steak. (DI)


Rutherford Hill Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $34.95 (959338) 14.2% alcohol
Expect an intense, fruit forward nose of red plum and blueberry fruit. It’s slightly reminiscent of a Zinfandel with copious fruit, warmth from alcohol and a touch of vanilla. In the mouth it’s quite soft with an almost sweet sensation resulting from ripe fruit flavor and substantial alcohol. Very fine tannins appear at the back end to create balance and the flavours are long and pure. (MT)


Sebastiani Merlot 2005
Sonoma County $25.95 (219162) 13.5% alcohol
This is primarily Merlot complemented by small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc to achieve greater complexity. This wine has a pretty nose with red plum and black cherry fruit alongside vanilla, cedar and a touch of earthiness. Soft tannin lingers long into the palate to create a fine balance on this full-bodied red. It’s ‘quintessential’ Californian Merlot with a fair bit of depth to boot. Enjoy this well-made wine with roasted guinea fowl. (MT)

The Main Release

Dessert Wine

Castellani Sommavite Vin Santo
IGT Toscana, Italy $9.95 500 mL (000927) 16% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Apricot and spice aromas waft from the glass of this racy Vin Santo aka Holy wine. Traditionally left to ferment until around Easter it was then served at Mass. Lucky Italians! It now is aged at least 3 years in barrel after the semi-dried grapes are crushed and fermented. The involved and interesting flavours include strong tea, almond and dried black currant. This medium-bodied gem ends on a sweet and nutty note. Serve well chilled. (VH)

Sparkling Wine

Pierre Sparr ‘Brut Rosé’ Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace, France $19.95 (039016) 12% alcohol
This value-priced sparkler carries a fruity nose of strawberries with a touch of yeast for complexity. It’s light and crisp with a mild creaminess appearing on the mid palate. It’s medium bodied and long in the finish with excellent fruit relays. It’s ever so slightly off-dry and will be equally comfortable as an aperitif or with Thai coconut shrimp. (MT)

Canada: White Wine

Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Toast, oak and vanilla aromas roll off the glass of this highly expressive generously textured Chardonnay. It was barrel fermented and aged in French oak before being bottled under Stelvin closure a.k.a. screw cap. Look for flavours of green apple and yellow peach with nuances of what will develop over the next few years—honeyed pear and caramel apple flavours. Beautifully structured, it delivers a lingering and impeccably balanced finish. This would be a lovely accompaniment with Thanksgiving turkey, sage dressing and roasted root veggies. (VH)


Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Vinified from two separate lots in cooler parts of the region, this reflects the warm vintage through highly aromatic fruit flavours, and the judicious selection and handling of fruit as it delivers pristine acidity and deft balance. Grassy, herbaceous and mineral aromas segue a rich and heady gusher of green apple, white grapefruit and spice-infused ripe lemon flavours It's medium in weight and texture delivering a crisp and refreshing lengthy finish. Pair with lime-marinated prawns grilled on your BBQ then drizzled with butter. (VH)

Argentina: Red Wine

Finca La Chamiza ‘Martin Alsina’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $43.95 (095539) 14.6% alcohol
Argentina is known as a producer of value-driven reds, but premium products such as this shouldn’t be overlooked. This Malbec has a hugely concentrated nose of cassis, wild blueberry, milk chocolate and coffee with a floral edge underneath. It starts juicy in the mouth before moderate tannin appears to create great structure. This full-bodied beauty has a long, fruit-driven finish and is an example of the quality level Argentine wines can achieve. (MT)


Santa Julia ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (093781) 13.5% alcohol
This is terrific value for your wine-buying dollar. The spicy nose offers dark cherry and plum aromas with nuances of smoked meat and eucalyptus. It’s well structured with a nice core of acidity and elegant tannin to balance the fruit. This is medium in body and easy drinking—great on its own or with grilled burgers. (MT)


Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia - Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $13.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) With toast, ripe red cherry and hints of mint on the nose, this delivers a persistent stream of succulent flavour with red berry fruit, spice and rich mulberry to the fore. There are nuances of vanillin—this spent eight months in French oak—and a firm tannin structure. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a generous and well-balanced zesty finish. This is a very good wine an exceptional value; pick up a cartful. (VH)

Chile: Red Wine

Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère 2008
Colchagua Valley $13.95 (056853) 13.5% alcohol
After a couple of swirls the aromas really open up offering notes of leather, cinnamon and smoke alongside red cherry and raspberry fruit. This is soft in acidity with substantial, chewy and ripe tannin that adds to the depth and body of the wine. Although meant as an early-drinking style this wine will appreciate further after a couple of years in your cellar. At this price it’s worth buying a few to forget about until 2011. (MT)

Australia: White Wine

Westend Estate ‘Richland’ Pinot Grigio 2008
Riverina, New South Wales $13.95 (092494) 12% alcohol
That’s correct, Pinot Grigio from Australia. This affordable, easy-drinking wine has pleasant green apple and lemon aromas alongside more subtle floral and mineral notes. It’s light bodied, quite dry and crisp. Serve well chilled as an aperitif and don’t let your guests know how little you paid. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

Jim Jim (The Down-Underdog) Shiraz 2007
South Australia $14.95 (682005) 14.5% alcohol
This fruit-forward style evokes dark currant and blueberry fruit with eucalyptus and a touch of savoury spice. This feels somewhat sweet on the palate given its ripe fruit flavor. The texture is quite soft making it smooth and silky. Full bodied and fun, this has a somewhat spicy finish that would really suit spicy grilled chicken. (MT)


Mitolo G.A.M. Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $46.95 (596031) 15% alcohol
This is warm from the first sniff to the last sip. Alcohol is present on the nose, but doesn’t overpower, and is joined by ultra ripe black cherry and blueberry fruit. The fruit flavours are similarly ripe on the palate and turn jammy. It’s full bodied and sure to warm you up on a cold night. Firm mild cheeses will be just fine. (MT)


Richard Hamilton ‘Lot 148 Merlot’ 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (039461) 14% alcohol
Although often used as a blending component with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot is making its mark as a single varietal wine in parts of Australia. Expect currant and red cherry aromas alongside milk chocolate, sweet spice and floral notes. There’s a lot of soft fruit flavour on the palate that’s supported nicely by gentle tannin at the back end. This wine carries plenty of body yet remains elegant with a pleasingly long finish. Enjoy with braised red meats. (MT)

South Africa: Red Wine

Lyngrove ‘Platinum’ Pinotage 2005
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (096529) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a lovely red with some very appealing charm. This is very fruit forward with sweet red berries, vanilla and eucalyptus notes with just a touch of smokiness that’s so characteristic of South African Pinotage. It’s fairly soft in structure with balance created by its alcoholic strength. It also offers up nice fruit relays on the finish. This is a solid effort that will pair well with bar b qued back ribs slathered in a garlic tomato sauce. (MT)

France: White Wine

Alsace

Antoine Moltès & Fils ‘Gaentzbrunnen Terroir’ Riesling 2006
AOC Alsace $19.95 (108548) 13% alcohol
This is good stuff. The concentrated nose is full of pink grapefruit, peach and lime with notes of honey, slate and orange blossom all making an appearance. It’s slightly off-dry with good acidity and a nicely textured, oily mouth feel. The flavours linger for quite some time and this has the potential to age for at least another five years. Enjoy as an aperitif or with lighter sea food. (MT)

Bordeaux

Château Roquetaillade La Grange 2007
AOC Graves $14.95 (240374) 12% alcohol
There’s plenty of intensity here and it offers very good value. Fresh lemon and lime fruits combine with pear, chalk and a subtle grassiness. This is light and lively yet there’s still sufficient fruit on the palate to create fine balance. The flavours linger nicely and this will be very versatile at your table, but will really highlight roasted chicken in an herbed cream sauce. (MT)

Burgundy

Domaine Saint Prix Bourgogne Aligoté 2007
AOC Bourgogne $17.95 (112250) 12.5% alcohol
Aligoté is Burgundy’s ‘other’ white grape, and, as it often takes a back seat to Chardonnay, is often quite the bargain. Expect a restrained nose of lime, green apple and chalk before the flavours really open up on the palate. This is light bodied and racy with high acidity, and a carries a very clean finish. Just the thing for spicy canapés and spring rolls. (MT)

Loire

Domaine des Aubuisières ‘Cuvée de Silex’ Vouvray 2008
AOC Vouvray $17.95 (057042) 13% alcohol
If there’s a prize for best value in the release, this makes the short list. From the food-friendly and incredibly versatile Chenin Blanc grape, this Vouvray packs a lot of punch and asks for so little (monetarily) in return. Buckwheat honey, acacia flowers and Bosc pear form the primary aromas here. There’s a hint of sweetness on the palate that’s superbly balanced by bracing acidity while the wine maintains surprising depth. The great thing about this wine is that it’s enjoyable today but will effortlessly cellar for another five years. Enjoy with apricot-glazed duck breast. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château Le Bourdieu 2003
AOC Médoc $19.95 (085084)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Toast, spice and red currant on the nose, the flavours—ripe black cherry and kirsch liqueur—are still a bit wound up in chunky tannin. It's medium textured with good body weight and a persistent finish that shows fruity, spicy and black licorice flavours. Drink now to 2012 with a medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)


La Parde de Haut-Bailly 2006
AOC Pessac-Léognan $44.95 (115428) 12.5% alcohol
This very pretty Bordeaux offers up aromas of ripe black and plum fruit with a hint of bell pepper and savoury spice on the nose. In the mouth moderate acidity combines with mouth-coating tannin to create excellent balance. This medium-bodied red has a lot of finesse and carries fine length. It’s best enjoyed from 2011 through 2015 paired with roasted rack of lamb. (MT)

Burgundy

Domaine Debray Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2006
AOC Hautes-Côtes de Beaune $21.95 (112219) 12.5% alcohol
This is a very typical style of Burgundy evoking sour cherry fruit and floral character as well as notes of mushroom and cinnamon. It’s fresh with a nice vein of acidity and fairly soft tannin creating good balance. This medium-bodied wine is fairly delicate and will pair nicely with salmon Wellington (MT).

Rhône Valley

Perrin & Fils La Gille Gigondas 2006
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (906073) 14.5% alcohol
This Grenache-based blend features aromas of raspberry and red plum fruit along with notes of sweet tobacco, smoke and mild incense. Ripe fruit and alcoholic warmth combine to create a sweet sensation in the mouth while the fruit is balanced by fine, lingering tannin. There’s plenty of stuffing here to allow this wine to age another four years, but it will be quite nice tonight with rare red meat. (MT)

France: Rosé Wine

Rhône Valley

Château Val Joanis ‘Tradition’ Syrah Rosé 2008
AOC Luberon $15.95 (707281) 13.5% alcohol
Expect cranberry and strawberry aromatics alongside black pepper and a splash of grapefruit zest. This is slightly off dry and sports good acidity on a light-bodied frame. It’s ideal for the spring weather and will be great as an aperitif or with poached salmon in a red berry sauce. (MT)


Domaine Corne-Loup Rosé Tavel 2008
AOC Tavel $16.95 (071209) 14% alcohol
Red cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit aromas intermingle with notes of eucalyptus and black pepper on this well-priced gem from the famous Rosé-only wine region of Tavel. This is crisp with inviting acidity and carries its medium body through a lingering finish. The wine is full bodied and will pair nicely with roasted Cornish hen. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Banear Tentazioni D’Aba Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DOC Friuli, Grave $14.95 (117044) 13% alcohol
This wine features bell pepper and smoky aromatics with notes of spice, plum and red berries. It has refreshing acidity and very soft tannin, making it quite approachable in its youth. This light-bodied style will best be appreciated as a sipper after a few minutes in the fridge and will also be a suitable companion for mild cheese. (MT)


Cibressi ‘Macchiarossa’ 2005
DOC Molise Tintilia $29.95 (106336) 13.5% alcohol
This wine scores high on the delicious scale. It opens with bitter chocolate notes followed by plum, blueberry, vanilla and sweet spice aromas. Moderate acidity is joined by perceptible, but resolving tannins to create excellent balance for the ripe succulent berry fruit on the palate. This medium-bodied gem sports solid length and will be enjoyable over the next four or five years with braised lamb shanks. (MT)


Borgogno Francesco Brunate Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo $49.95 (117200) 14% alcohol
Look for a great nose of dried fruit with tarry undertones, notes of violets and minerality followed by a smoky and earthy character. There’s abundant fruit on the palate which carries good acidity and an aggressively tannic structure. This full-bodied Barolo needs a few years in the cellar to allow the tannins to soften, but has all the components in place to achieve harmonious balance by about 2014. (MT)


Rivera Cappellaccio Aglianico ‘Riserva’ 2004
DOC Castel del Monte $17.95 (984120) 13.5% alcohol
This could also be on the short list for best value wine in the release. Fig paste and cassis fruit intermingle with dark chocolate and pepper notes on the inviting nose. Moderate acidity combines with big, chewy tannins to provide ample structure. This medium-bodied red carries a long finish of dried fruit and can be enjoyed tonight and over the next seven years with grilled steak. (MT)


Marchesi Fumanelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $59.95 (105155) 15.5% alcohol
The nose here is quite perfumed, almost liquored, with fig and red cherry fruit character alongside notes of sweet spice and milk chocolate. The palate is typically somewhat sweet as copious fruit plays off significant alcohol, and ultra ripe lingering tannins create wonderful balance. The fruit continues into the long finish which carries none of the bitterness that is often a component of Amarone. Hard cheese will do nicely. (MT)


Monte Del Frá Corvina 2006
DOC Garda $15.95 (116996) 13% alcohol
You may have visited Lake Garda on a trip to Italy, probably for the touristy aspects rather than the wine. Here’s an opportunity to try wine from the area. Corvina is most often seen as the dominant portion of the Valpolicella blend—in this single-varietal offering it shows a unique but very friendly profile. This is bright and floral in character with red berry fruit and sweet tobacco aromas. The palate has lively acidity and soft tannins showing deft balance. Enjoy with spiced sausage or roasted game bird. (MT)


Zenato ‘Cormi’ Merlot/Corvina 2006
IGT Veneto $19.95 (108282) 13.5% alcohol
This has a gorgeous nose of ripe black berry and raisined fruit with dark chocolate, savoury spice and mint nuances. The palate is juicy with good acidity and sufficient tannin to balance the fruit. The flavours linger nicely on this well-made blend. With its pleasing medium body, it’ll be just the thing for grilled ribs and burgers. (MT)

Spain: White Wine

Lícia Albariño 2007
DO Rias Baixas $19.95 (114397) 12.5% alcohol
If you’re looking for a slightly different dry white for spring and summer, you’ll not want to miss this. Albariño hails from the north west of Spain and is the country’s premium white variety. This version is quite intense with tropical and peach fruit character as well as notes of fresh flowers and chalk. The light-bodied frame sports racy acidity yet still has a dense feel in the mouth and the wine is very long in finish. As they do in Spain, enjoy with grilled calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

Marqués De Valcarlos ‘Gran Reserva’ 1999
DO Navarra $21.95 (684251) 13.5% alcohol
Here is tremendous value for a quality wine that’s already been aged for you—at least two years in cask and three in bottle. Expect red cherry and strawberry jam aromas with cedar, vanilla and a touch of spiciness. The palate is soft as both the acidity and tannins have softened in time yet are still sufficient to create wonderful balance. This medium-bodied gem is at its peak, grab an armful and enjoy with roasted poultry. (MT)

New in the LCBO

Fazi Battaglia Sangiovese 2007
IGT Marche, Italy $10.75 (326306) 12% alcohol
All the things one expects in a Sangiovese are present here—there’s mixed spice, black currant and dark ripe cherry on the nose while the pleasingly tart fruit flavours include red currant, cranberry and pie cherry. It’s uncomplicated, light bodied and the perfect complement to rich tomato sauce-based dishes like spaghetti Bolognese or veal parmigiano. This earned its final half star on great value. (VH)


Fazi Battaglia Verdecchio dei Castelli di Jesi ‘Classico’ 2008
DOC Verdecchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Italy $10.75 (24422) 12% alcohol
Involved aromas of mineral, citrus, tree fruit and honey open this medium-bodied nicely textured white wine gem. Those aromas follow through on the palate providing a delicious wine with a very dry, clean and refreshing finish. This winery is by the sea and local cuisine is a perfect match—fish and all manner of sea food, especially shell fish. (VH)


The Beach House Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
WO Western Cape $9.95 (122390) 12.5% alcohol
This is a straightforward pleasant summer sipper for under ten dollars—what’s not to like? There are mineral, floral and tree fruit aromas while the flavours in this light-bodied white offer caramelized ripe tropical fruit that cleans up nicely with a gusher of citrussy lemon-lime. The finish is nicely balanced portending a lovely match with all manner of sea food. (VH)


Wyndham Estate Bin 525 Shiraz Grenache 2008
South Eastern Australia $16.45 (96826) 14.5% alcohol
Red cherry and spiced black plum aromas segue into a dazzling mouthful of rich ripe flavours—tarry Bing cherries, dried and dusty black berry fruit and hints of warm sweet prune plum. This is full-bore delicious with its firm tannin frame, good spine of acidity, lovely balance and lip-smacking lingering finish. Drink now to 2013—it’ll continue to improve in the bottle—alongside rich stews, grilled or roasted red meat. Great value. (VH)


Wyndham Estate Bin 515 Shiraz Viognier 2006
South Eastern Australia $16.45 (94219) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and inviting aromas of dark sweet berry fruit, black licorice and tar waft from this well-balanced and flavourful red. On the palate there is a cornucopia of lifted flavours, spice, black current and hints of cassis. It’s full-bodied, nicely textured and offers ripe tannin and complexity on the deftly balanced lingering finish. It has enough finesse to be truly enjoyed on its own and the stuffing to pair well with rack of lamb. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Southbrook Vineyards Cabernet Rosé 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 12.8% alcohol
This 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Cabernet Franc blend is Canada’s first biodynamic—Demeter certified—wine. The brilliant deep rosé colour segues into expressive spice and red cherry fruit aromas. It’s medium bodied, silky in texture and chockfull of flavour with cherry clafoutie, red currant compote and a complex and lengthy pie cherry finish. Delightful sipped on its own, it has the oomph to pair with pork tenderloin, fowl or veal. Remove from fridge 30 minutes before serving. Order from Southbrook Vineyards 1.800.581.1581 for daily delivery in Ontario. (VH)

Cheers, Mark and Vic


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar