March 14, 2009 Vintages Release

It’s a very sad time for us at winecurrent—on Wednesday, February 25, Roger Perrault, Ottawa representative for Churchill Cellars wine agency, passed away suddenly and unexpectedly. A few readers knew him personally, but all of you knew him through his attentive, professional and generous nature—always on time, often pre-emptive, providing wines that most often made their way into winecurrent newsletters and on to your dinner table. Roger was one of those special people who made you feel better about yourself when you were around him. His thoughts and actions were always framed by you and your needs, never his or what worked best for him. Roger, we miss you and the wonderful manner in which you interacted with us and approached life.

Winecurrent subscribers get hot over alcohol! We’re now including the alcohol percentage for each wine reviewed. If you’re interested in the why’s and wherefore’s, Read more...

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on Winning Whites from Ontario followed by a feature on Kosher wines. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Four wines that earned 4 and 1/2 stars costing less than $17.00 each.
• Two wines earning 4 stars costing less than $10.00 each.
• Finding Waldo — A fourteen-year-old Riesling earning 5 stars and costing less than $20.00.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Ontario’s Winning Whites

Daniel Lenko ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (091173) 14% alcohol
The Lenko family are long-time grape growers in Niagara, until recently selling their premium grapes to top Niagara wineries. Daniel Lenko decided to make wine under the family name—you’ll be pleased he did. This un-oaked Chardonnay has very nice aromatic intensity with plenty of pear and banana fruits alongside hints of vanilla and yeast. The palate is as intense as the nose with vibrant fruit character and fresh acidity. It has great balance, a long finish with fairly full body and plenty of depth. Try it with roasted guinea fowl. (MT)


Kacaba Vineyards ‘Horizon Ridge Sur Lie’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (116392) 13% alcohol
Look for very rich aromas evoking baked apples and pears along with a toasty and caramel complexity that’s normally the result of oak treatment. This wine sees no barrel aging but rests on its lees (spent yeast cells) adding aromatic complexity. Refreshing acidity combines with a medium-bodied frame, giving the wine a touch of creaminess and substantial richness on the palate. It’s superbly balanced and the flavours stick around for quite some time. At this price, get to the store before I do and grab an armful. (MT)


Malivoire Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.00 (573147)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Meticulous winemaking procedures—hand picked, whole cluster pressed, partial French oak barrel fermentation, full malolactic conversion and lees ageing for eight months—coalesced with eco-friendly vine management producing this medium-bodied fully textured gem. Expressive aromas, grapefruit and apple compote, segue a gorgeous array of fruit flavours with pineapple, ripe citrus and muskmelon predominant. The crisp clean finish lingers. Pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries. (VH)


Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (286377)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The '07 vintage has produced exciting wines and here's one of them. It has it all, aromas of mineral, citrus and spice that introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrussy zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)


Fielding Estate’ Old Vines’ Riesling 2007
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $16.00 (090993) 11.5% alcohol
This lovely Riesling opens with peach, apricot and pink grapefruit notes with an underlying streak of minerality. It’s quite dry with racy acidity and is very light-bodied. It combines both depth of aroma with a great presence in the mouth while sporting a lot of finesse. With its delicate weight and mouthwatering acidity, it will be incredibly versatile at the table. Enjoy as an aperitif or with most manner of appetizers. (MT)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietor’s Grand Reserve’ White Meritage 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (109371) 13% alcohol
White Meritage is a blend of two grapes commonly used in white Bordeaux—Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. This offering features a complex nose of green apple and peach fruit alongside mineral and floral tones. Structurally, it has moderate acidity which gives it a rich, somewhat creamy feel in the mouth, while still maintaining exceptional balance. The flavours linger for quite some time, with nice fruit relays. Freshly shucked oysters would do very nicely. (MT)

Kosher Wines

Beckett’s Flat ‘Five Stones’ Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (108001) 13% alcohol
Both grapes make their presence felt on the nose, which features green melon and green apple fruits combined with a subtle note of wet hay. In the mouth, refreshing acidity greets the taster and is followed by a pleasant richness so common to Semillon. With medium body, good balance and length, this is a very solid effort. I’d enjoy it alongside shrimp poached in white wine and a touch of garlic. (MT)


Yarden Viognier 2006
Galilee, Israel $29.95 (058883) 15% alcohol
Intense aromatics and great varietal typicity are the hallmarks of this wine. The high alcohol content makes its presence felt on both the palate and the nose. Aromatically there’s great intensity with floral and white peach character, alongside melon fruits and a touch of lemon rind. The palate is quite warm with good fruit relays. Structurally, it’s soft in acidity with balance provided by alcohol, and there’s plenty of length on the finish. Look to pair it with richer sea foods, such as lobster thermidor. (MT)

The Main Release

California: White Wine

Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Napa Valley $23.95 (096016) 12.8% alcohol
The nose is classic Napa Sauvignon Blanc: fresh grass with a fruit profile of ripe peaches and a touch of eucalyptus. Citrus flavours appear on the palate along with lively acidity and nice balance. It carries light to medium body and sports good length, making for a very nice package overall. Enjoy with an heirloom tomato salad with fresh goat cheese. (MT)

California: Red Wine

Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $73.95 (189795) 14% alcohol
This winery does not disappoint. The nose is extremely expressive showing cassis and milk chocolate aromas joined by notes of sweet spice, anise and toasted oak. In the mouth, substantial, yet graceful, tannins coat the palate while copious fruit provides excellent balance. It’s full in body and long in finish, and delivers everything that fans of this winery expect. Cellar it for at least three years and enjoy it though 2018, with rare grilled steak right off the barbeque. (MT)


Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $49.95 (655399) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s another wine with an explosive nose, in this case offering dark chocolate, plum and cassis characters. Notes of violet and even blueberries appear in time. On the palate, the fruit is so ripe it’s almost sweet, displaying a nearly syrupy character. Expansive tannins create firm structure, giving this wine a full bodied, rich and chewy feel in the mouth. By all means let this age in your cellar for five to six years, then decant and enjoy alongside seared duck breast. Superb wine. (MT)

Chile: Red Wine

Tricyclo Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2007
Marchigue, Colchagua Valley $15.95 (027474) 13% alcohol
Chilean wines often impress with how much they pack into a bottle for such a low price. Aromas include cassis and raspberry fruits, with notes of milk chocolate, smoke and a subtle herbal layer. Surprisingly complex, this blend has good acidity and very soft tannins that linger at the back end of the palate. With medium body and good length, this wine will be equally comfortable with firm cheeses and smoked ribs. It earned its last half star on value, so stock up before it’s all gone. (MT)

Australia: White Wine

Richard Hamilton ‘Almond Grove’ Chardonnay 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (741009) 13.5% alcohol
Whenever you see this winery name you might want sit up and take notice. The nose here is simply gorgeous with integrated aromas of peach and banana fruits co-existing gracefully with a healthy dollop of toasted oak. Fresh acidity creates mouthwatering balance, and the fruit and oak flavours go on and on. Enjoy it with baked Cornish Hen, very good friends and plenty of this wine to go around. Outstanding value – buy in quantity. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

Elderton ‘Ode to Lorraine’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2004
Barossa, South Australia $37.95 (976423) 14.5% alcohol
The age on this wine becomes immediately apparent via the aromas: tobacco, cigar box and spice notes are at the fore, followed by black currant and blueberry fruits with a touch of cocoa. It’s softly structured with gentle tannins supporting the fruit flavours and generous alcohol. Overall, it’s superbly balanced and has very nice length. The blend consists of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Shiraz and 16% Merlot. It’s drinkable now but will easily shine for another five years; try it with braised lamb. (MT)


Grant Burge ‘Cameron Vale’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa, South Australia $20.95 (937276) 14.5% alcohol
This wine needs a few minutes in the glass before the aromas evolve, but when they do expect dark plum and blueberry fruits combined with black pepper and milk chocolate. It becomes nearly sweet in the mouth with very ripe fruits mingling with high alcohol. It’s full-bodied with a somewhat juicy texture, making it a natural for barbequed chicken and ribs. (MT)


Leasingham ‘Bin 61’ Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $25.95 (448241) 13.5% alcohol
Expect focused aromas of ripe cassis, black plum and milk chocolate on the nose of this wine. Although it’s already seen some bottle age, the tannic structure is still impressive and provides a nice backdrop for all the fruit on the palate. Although this wine has good balance today, it should really hit its stride in another four to five years. Enjoy with a mixed grill of pepper steak and roasted lamb. (MT)


Water Wheel Shiraz 2006
Bendigo, Victoria $18.95 (700815) 15.5% alcohol
You’ll notice the substantial alcohol on the nose here, along with blueberry fruit, pepper and leather notes. The ripe fruit combines with warmth on the palate to yield a somewhat sweet character and very soft tannins provide structure. It’s very full bodied and quite rich. Enjoy with firm cheeses or braised red meats. (MT)

New Zealand: White Wine

Soljans Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $17.95 (091223) 13% alcohol
Here’s a very pleasant aromatic profile of pink grapefruit and fresh grass with a touch of melon. The acidity is a little soft compared to many Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs, but it works nicely here, creating a wine of pleasingly soft balance. It’s light to medium in body and has very good length. Enjoy with poached salmon. (MT)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Freefall Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago $26.95 (090092) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a very nice nose here featuring dark cherry and plum fruits, with milk chocolate, pepper and earthy notes all appearing. On the palate the fruit flavours are ultra ripe, nearly raisiny in character, with juicy acidity and very soft tannins combining to create wonderful balance. Although the fruit character is quite ripe, the wine is moderate in alcohol and as such will pair nicely with both firm fish and light poultry dishes. Great effort. (MT)

South Africa: White Wine

Lords Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO McGregor $16.95 (101162) 13% alcohol
You’ll enjoy South African Sauvignon Blancs as so many tend to be a cross-over style between aggressively herbal New Zealand and the more subtle Loire Valley examples. Tree and tropical fruit combine with a nice grassy character on the nose, with lemon flavours appearing in the mouth. On the palate expect crisp acidity on a light-bodied frame with good balance and length. Enjoy with a salad of golden beets in light vinaigrette. (MT)

France: White Wine

Alsace

Domaine Saint-Rémy ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Gewürztraminer 2007
AOC Alsace $19.95 (106872) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a very pleasant nose featuring rose petal with honeyed peach and lychee notes. It’s off-dry with a rich, oily texture that’s very typical of this varietal when from Alsace. It has great character due to the aromatic balance and the flavour balance on the palate. Often the floral notes from Gewürztraminer simply overpowers everything else, but that’s certainly not the case here. With it’s flavour profile and medium to full body, this is a good choice served with roasted duck in an apricot glaze. (MT)


Frey-Sohler Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace $16.95 (107151) 12% alcohol
This Riesling offers an intense nose of lime, floral and mineral character. It’s quite racy with crisp acidity and is fairly light-bodied. A touch light when compared with typical Alsatian Riesling, this is a very pleasant wine, indeed. The flavours linger nicely and you’d expect to pay more for a wine of this quality. Enjoy as an aperitif or with deep fried calamari before dinner. (MT)


Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris ‘Réserve’ 2006
AOC Alsace $18.95 (983395) 13% alcohol
You’ll love the aromas of this wine—it’s full of honeyed peach, apricot and sweet spice with a floral character. It’s off-dry in the mouth with a full body and oily texture that allows it to slide like silk over your palate. There’s sufficient acidity to create great balance and enough stuffing to allow it to age over the next three to four years. Great value. (MT)

Burgundy

Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay Mâcon-Villages 2007
AOC Mâcon-Villages, Burgundy $16.95 (110387) 13% alcohol
You know there’s a revolution in bottle closures when a Burgundian producer seals their wine with a screw cap, as this wine is. It’s un-oaked and offers pleasant pear and green apple aromatics with subtle notes of honey and white flowers. This wine is refreshing with good acidity and a medium body. You won’t go wrong with roasted chicken breast and a chilled bottle of this well-priced wine. (MT)

Loire Valley

Château de Tracy ‘Mademoiselle de T’ Pouilly-Fumé 2007
AOC Pouilly-Fumé $25.95 (106773) 13% alcohol
Expect a very pleasing nose of white grapefruit and quince with a touch of underlying minerality. There’s superb integration of aromas with no one element overpowering another. Zippy acidity refreshes on the palate, but again without dominating the fruit, and the result is a wine that’s wonderfully balanced today but will also age gracefully for at least another five years. It’s medium in body, long in finish, and will be a wonderful accompaniment to baked ocean fish in a simple butter sauce. (MT)


Noël Bougrier Vouvray 2007
AOC Vouvray $14.95 (106880) 11.5% alcohol
Wine from Vouvray is made from the Chenin Blanc grape and offers diversity—bone dry to sweet, sparkling and still—and age-worthiness; some up to fifty or more years. This wine is a bit tight aromatically initially, needing some time in the glass before citrus, mineral and hay characteristics appear. It features bright acidity with plenty of fruit on the palate and is light-bodied. There’s also ample fruit on the lengthy finish. With this structure you could enjoy it with anything from mild cheese through roasted guinea fowl. Let it age for about four years allowing it to come into its own. (MT)

Southwest

Domaine de Mirail Colombard 2007
Vin de Pays Côtes de Gascogne $15.95 (061606) 12.5% alcohol
It’s nice to see winemakers in this region making table wine out of Colombard. It’s most often distilled, along with other grape varieties, for Armagnac. This white has nice intensity of aroma, with bright lemon and lime fruits and a touch of chalkiness. It’s light in body with racy acidity, creating a mouthwatering zestiness on the palate. This is refreshing and easy to drink—try as an aperitif or with crispy crab cakes. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Pavillon de Poyferré 2004
AOC Saint-Julien $49.95 (091447) 13% alcohol
This is the second wine of Château Léovile Poyferré, which translate to a terrific product at a much more reasonable price than their flagship wine. The nose is beautifully refined with dark fruits mingling alongside herbal and floral notes. Over time the secondary traits of bitter chocolate, smoke and black pepper become evident. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot create the blend here (62% and 28% respectively) and because of it (Cabernet Sauvignon tends to have more tannin) the tannins, although ripe, tend to dominate the palate, currently. It’s medium to full bodied and there’s enough of everything to believe this wine will be really gorgeous in three to five years. Enjoy with firm cheeses. (MT)

Beaujolais

Domaine Duthel Douby Morgon 2007
AOC Morgon $20.95 (112557) 13% alcohol
You’ll enjoy a pretty nose of candied raspberry and strawberry with a pleasant floral side. A soft tone of vanilla and subtle eucalyptus aromas complete the picture. In the mouth, the tangy acidity creates structure and there’s more than enough fruit flavour for balance. While medium in body, it has plenty of density on the palate and will easily cellar for another three to four years. Great choice as an aperitif or with grilled salmon kebabs. (MT)

Burgundy

Domaine Latour-Giraud la Fussière Maranges 1er Cru 2006
AOC Maranges $31.95 (111823) 13.5% alcohol
This Pinot Noir has good intensity on the nose with sour and black cherry fruit combined with earthiness and leathery notes. The earthy character will become more evident in a few more years of bottle age, if you’re willing to wait that long. A pleasant core of acidity is the basis of the wine’s structure and the tannins are quite soft, but persistent. With a medium body this wine is superbly balanced and long in finish. Enjoy with baked Cornish hen. (MT)


Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (084616) 12.5% alcohol
There’s really good value here in a friendly, approachable style. The aromas are red berries—cherry and strawberry—with cinnamon spice and just a hint of forest floor. It’s structurally sound with lively acidity and mellow tannins and being lighter bodied. It’ll be delicious before dinner or with coq au vin. This is very attractively priced when compared to other French Pinot Noir. (MT)

Loire Valley

Laurent Mabileau St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil 2006
AOC St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil $15.95 (061192) 12.5% alcohol
This gorgeous wine is made entirely from Cabernet Franc, a superb wine in the company of food. There are ripe dark berry fruit aromas with significant herbal notes (bell pepper) that are the signature scents of this grape. The palate is chock full of dark fruit flavour with a touch of spiciness while a pleasant tang of acidity plays off chewy tannins. It’s medium-bodied and full of character, Although a touch young now, it should be wonderfully balanced in another two years. Roasted venison is a great match. (MT)

Rhône Valley

Cru de la Vallée du Rhône Saint-Joseph 2003
AOC Saint-Joseph $24.95 (104729) 12.5% alcohol
Most wine-lovers enjoy a rich glass of New World Shiraz, but that shouldn’t stop you from trying a different style from the Rhône Valley. Put a fruit-driven Australian Shiraz beside a red from the Northern Rhône—you’ll get a sense of the differences between what’s referred to as New World and Old World winemaking styles. This wine has cassis and black plum on the nose with notes of black pepper and smoke. What sets it apart is the structure on the palate—big, mouth coating tannins that create an almost chewy feel and are a great foil for all the fruit. With its medium-body this wine is wonderfully suited to grilled rack of lamb. (MT)

Germany: White Wine

Zilliken Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Saarburger Rausch $21.95 (931097) 9% alcohol
Expect good intensity of aromatics with peach and apple fruits as well as lime blossom. The slate/mineral component is very noticeable, creating nice complexity. On the palate the wine is medium dry, with residual sugars and mouthwatering acidity creating lovely balance. As with many German Rieslings, this is very light-bodied, yet still carries plenty of depth and length. Shrimp cocktail anyone? (MT)


Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 1995
QmP Hallgartener Jungfer $19.00 (090670) 9% alcohol
Don’t look any further if you’re after a beautifully constructed, moderately aged German Riesling. This wine is pretty from start to finish beginning with a lovely deep golden colour in the glass. The nose is gorgeous with golden raisin and dried apricot fruits, honey, and a subtle dose of kerosene (that’s basically how mineral/slate aromas change in the case of an aged Riesling wine). It’s barely off-dry and although over fourteen years old still carries crisp acidity. The wine is opulent on the nose and all about finesse on the palate, being light-bodied and lively in texture. It’s delicious today and will continue to evolve for about another five years. Sure, you could match it with food, but why bother? (MT)


Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Kabinett 1987
QmP Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen $16.95 (114801) 9.5% alcohol
This is an interesting example of a German Riesling in the twilight of its drinking years. It’s over twenty years old, it has a distinctive petrol character on the nose, somewhat overpowering the fruit. There’s a nuttiness as well as dried apple and raisin fruits along with a touch of honey. The acidity has mellowed out with age with just enough left for balance, but I wouldn’t suggest aging this wine for much longer. A touch of residual sugar creates a pleasant off-dry character. This is definitely worth trying – you won’t find too many twenty-plus-year-old Rieslings at this price. (MT)


Geil Riesling Kabinett 2007
QmP Bechtheimer Rosengarten $15.95 (994674) 10.5% alcohol
Here’s a German Riesling in its infancy, a marked difference from its older cousin above. The nose has focused aromas of lime, peach and honey with subtle minerality and lime zest. The palate is medium sweet, but the sugars are balanced beautifully by zesty acidity. It’s light bodied and very refreshing with nice depth of flavour on the finish. This wine will easily age another ten years, but is also drinking pretty nicely today. Enjoy with a light lunch of pickled herring and smoked cheese. (MT)

Hungary: White Wine

Hilltop ‘Prémium Range’ Pinot Grigio 2006
Neszmélyi $15.95 (106625) 13% alcohol
Pinot Grigio fans probably don’t get to taste many from Hungary—this one’s worth a punt. A pleasantly floral nose, somewhat reminiscent of Muscat, is the first thing you’ll notice before peach fruit and buckwheat honey aromas come along. In the mouth it’s a touch off-dry with a soft silky mouth feel due to the lower acidity. It’s medium-bodied and nicely balanced with pleasant fruit relays on the finish. Enjoy with freshly shucked oysters. (MT)

Italy: White Wine

Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2008
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $19.95 (106385) 5% alcohol
The nose is quite pretty but not as explosive as some other examples of this style. Peaches and flowers are at the fore with a touch of fresh grapes, as well. In the mouth it’s medium sweet with the soft effervescence that’s the hallmark of this style. At only five percent alcohol this is a super light-bodied sipper and will be just the thing with cheese omelettes. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Piedmont

Paolo Conterno ‘Bricco Sant’ Ambrogio’ Barbera d’Alba 2007
DOC Barbera d’Alba $18.95 (744714) 14% alcohol
Red and dark plum fruit give this wine a pleasant aromatic profile, somewhat similar to a top Merlot. Cocoa and sweet spice notes complete the picture, making it all seem quite rich. On the palate the crisp acidity gives the impression of a much lighter-bodied wine than the alcohol would indicate. It’s very nicely balanced with plenty of fruit on the finish. Given its structure it will easily last another five to seven years. Enjoy with gourmet thin-crust pizza with zesty tomato sauce and smoked sausage. (MT)


Viberti la Volta Barolo ‘Riserva’ 2001
DOCG $69.95 (105841) 14% alcohol
The 2001 vintage has been acclaimed a classic year for Barolo and this wine is good evidence of that. The nose is beautiful and quite complex, evoking aromas of dried fruit, tobacco leaf, roasted espresso and the signature tar note of the region. Over time more subtle aromas of red cherry, leather, violets and earth appear. Moderate acidity softens the impact of the significant tannins, but this wine really needs at least five years before it will be approachable. Medium in body and long in finish, this fine Barolo will reward patience so lay some down and enjoy between 2015 and 2025. Fantastic wine. (MT)

Sicily

Morgante Nero d’Avola 2006
IGT Sicilia $16.95 (040816) 14% alcohol
This wine is rich in fruit character with wild raspberry and blueberry fruit combining with pepper and coffee notes. It features a juicy palate with a nice vein of acidity creating a lighter feel in the mouth than the substantial alcohol would suggest. If you’re a fan of Californian Zinfandel this will be right up your alley and at this price it’s something you can stock up on to enjoy tonight and over the next five years. Barbequed ribs would suit. (MT)

Veneto

Remo Farina ‘Monte Fante’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ‘Riserva’ 1998
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $77.95 (101364) 15% alcohol
Aged Amarone, as well made as this, is indeed a rare treat. The nose is chock full of goodness, with coffee, kirsch and mineral notes mingling alongside stewed fruits, dark chocolate and a touch of earthiness. The fruit is still exceptionally ripe, despite the age, and combines with the alcohol to give a nearly sweet edge to the wine. It’s silky and seductive with softer acidity and resolved tannins giving an ultra smooth feel in the mouth. For me, this wine is dessert, but some may prefer to enjoy with hard cheese. (MT)


Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $52.95 (356220) 15% alcohol
As this wine is six years younger than the example above, it provides good contrast. It’s slightly more fruit forward—vibrant black cherry fruit with figs, as well as dark chocolate and cocoa notes. On the palate it’s very typical with a soft structure utilizing the alcohol to balance the fruit character. The tannins are bigger than they first appear as they’re wrapped up in the warmth of the alcohol, but are certainly significant enough to allow this wine to age at least an additional twelve years. (MT)

Spain: White Wine

La Báscula ‘The Charge Barrel Fermented’ Viura 2007
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (103440) 13% alcohol
This delivers a rich nose, providing instant evidence of the fact this wine was fermented in barrel. Expect caramel and savoury spices on the nose along with vanilla, baked apple and pear. It’s soft in acidity and relatively light-bodied with a very clean presence in the mouth. Many barrel-fermented whites are much richer and heavier, but this has a lot to offer—rich on the nose, but lighter on the palate. Enjoy with baked trout in a white wine butter sauce. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas Ateca ‘Atteca Old Vines’ 2006
DO Calatayud $22.95 (103473) 14.5% alcohol
This well-crafted red is made up entirely of Grenache, from vines ranging in age from 80 to 120 years. The aromas are well focused featuring raspberry and black cherry fruits with noticeable alcohol and a more subtle menthol note. Sweet spices, milk chocolate and wild flowers contribute complexity that one wouldn’t normally expect from a wine priced this reasonably. The palate is juicy with good acidity and medium tannins creating exceptional balance for all the fruit. It’s full-bodied and has very good length. Although drinking very well today, it could easily sit up to another four years. Enjoy with braised veal in a red wine jus. (MT)

New in the LCBO

Bodegas Campo Viejo ‘Reserva’ Tempranillo 2003
Rioja, Spain $18.45 (1378100) 13.5% alcohol
This is a lovely wine reflecting a warm ‘03 vintage and five plus years of age—18 months of it in barrel. The moderately high alcohol and sweet fruity characteristics reflect the vintage while secondary characteristics brought on by age include leather and spiced vanilla aromas. It’s fruit forward—plum jam, red cherry and black bramble berry flavours—with good balancing acidity and a generously textured mouth feel. It finishes lengthy and full bodied with ultra-smooth tannins. It paired beautifully with gigot of lamb rubbed in rosemary and garlic. (VH)


Castillo di Monseran Viura 2007
DO Cariñena, Spain $8.90 (73387) 12.5% alcohol
This is a ready-to-drink very affordable white with a pleasant nose evoking pink grapefruit and fresh grass. As it opens up notes of tangerine and even orange blossom become evident. It’s crisp and refreshing, well-balanced with a light-weight frame and good length. This is non-oaked and will be versatile enough to serve as your house white at your next gathering. At this price you can afford to send your guests home in a cab. (MT)


JP Chenet Classic Cabernet Syrah 2007
Vin de Pays d’Oc, France $9.95 (90472) 13% alcohol
This blend is comprised of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah. Typical and pleasant aromas include red cherry and dark plum fruits with black pepper and a subtle herbal note. A nice trend in the south of France is to avoid the use of oak to preserve the fruit character. The other bonus is that it keeps the price very reasonable. This carries lively acidity and soft tannins on a medium-bodied frame and has a very clean presence in the mouth. Hard to believe they packed this much flavour into a bottle costing under ten bucks. (MT)


JP Chenet Founders Merlot/Cabernet 2007
Vin de Pays d’Oc, France $11.95 (621995) 14% alcohol
Packaging is still important and this wine comes in a beautiful bottle that will grab your attention and make you think it should cost more. In the glass the wine is fruit forward with plenty of dark plum and red cherry fruits mixing with vanilla and a touch of menthol. Softly structured with pleasant acidity, this full-bodied wine is supple and easy to drink, but carries enough density of flavour to enjoy with most manner of roasted red meats. (MT)


Fish Eye Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $8.95 (614297) 12.5% alcohol
This wine is all about fruit and plenty of it—cassis and raspberry with a touch of kirsch. One doesn’t expect this kind of aromatic and flavour intensity in a wine of this price, but this one delivers. On the palate the refreshing acidity combines with soft but persistent tannins to give solid balance on a lighter-bodied frame. It’s soft enough to drink on its own, but has enough depth to carry off grilled burgers and chicken. (MT)


Fish Eye Pinot Grigio 2007
California $8.95 (614263) 12% alcohol
Here’s a fun sipper with a great nose of peaches, orange blossom and fresh grass. Unlike many Pinot Grigios at this price, this has nice character. In the mouth it’s light and lively with bright acidity cleansing the palate. Citrus flavours linger on the impressive finish, creating a nice end to a well-made, invitingly priced white. Enjoy as an aperitif or with lighter seafood dishes. (MT)

Cheers, Mark and Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
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	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar