February 28, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on wines from two regions from the south of France—Midi and Provence—both providing aromatic, flavourful wines of good to great value—followed by a feature on Sicily. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Ontario wines reviewed by webmaster Dave Isaacs—found after the Main Release.
• Mark Tandan’s two Canadian wines that scored 5 stars.
• Finding Waldo – find the eight wines, at or under $15.00, scoring 4 and 4 1/2 stars.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Midi & Provence Feature

Cazes L’Excellence de Triniac 2005
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $16.95 (103689)
This wine blends Carignan with Syrah and Grenache, and right from the start we get that garrigue note of wild herbs along with plenty of black currant, red cherry and blueberry fruit. With a touch of violet and coffee undertones, the nose is gorgeous. This wine is relatively soft in structure with medium body and excellent balance, making it a great choice for drinking today and over the next two years. Pair it with roasted leg of lamb with a rosemary and red wine jus. (MT)


Domaine de Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2006
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $19.95 (643239)
There’s nice aromatic complexity here, with ripe dark fruit flavours, cocoa and a pleasant smoked meat character. Once again you’ll note the subtle aroma of wild herbs and earth, just adding to the intrigue. In the mouth there’s a nice core of acidity and moderate tannins to provide plenty of structure. It’s full bodied, nicely balanced and finishes long. I’d hold on to it for a couple of years before enjoying with paté and firm cheeses. (MT)


Château de Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Notre Dame’ 2006
AOC Corbières $16.95 (106518)
The nose is all about the colour red—red berries, red licorice, even a little red liqueur (kirsch). More subtle are the notes of sweet spice and new leather, with just a touch of vanilla. The palate sports lively acidity with nicely refined tannins, a medium body and great balance. Made from 55% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 15% Carignan, this wine is a good example of the benefits of blending—often the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Pork tenderloin would make a nice companion. (MT)


Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie ‘Rouge’ 2006
AOC Corbières $13.95 (711671)
This is an organic product from a tiny vineyard of only eight hectares, comprised of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. The nose offers red plums with vanilla and coffee notes. Lively acidity refreshes the palate and creates balance, as the tannins are quite soft. With its medium body, this will be just the thing for seared duck breast. (MT)


Domaine des Aires Hautes ‘Les Combelles’ 2005
AOC Minervois $13.95 (701706)
You’ll spend time nosing this wine, as the aromas are simply lovely. Subtle notes of garrigue combine with red cherry and fig, as well as leather and mineral undertones. Good acidity provides balance on the medium-bodied frame, but the nose somewhat outclasses the palate, which is why this wine didn’t score higher. Nonetheless it’s very enjoyable; pair it with roast chicken. (MT)


Clos Bagatelle ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2007
AOC Saint-Chinian $14.95 (103655)
This fairly young wine is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. It’s fruit forward in style, showcasing black and blue berries, with hints of violet and dark chocolate. It’s juicy and plush on the palate with a medium body and fine lingering tannins. All this adds up to excellent balance and very good value, so grab an armful to enjoy today and over the next three years. Rack of lamb in a wild blueberry jus would suit. (MT)


Abbaye de Sylva Plana ‘La Closeraie’ 2005
AOC Faugères $19.95 (104737)
Red berry fruit, garrigue, coffee and menthol form the aromas of this wine, which blends Carignan with Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Balance is achieved through a pleasant vein of acidity and quite soft tannins, combining with a modest 13.5% alcohol level. The flavours linger and this wine will pair quite nicely with mild cheeses before dinner, or with most manner of roasted game birds. (MT)


Domaine La Borie Fouisseau ‘Salamandre’ 2006
AOC Faugères $19.95 (104968)
This is organic as many producers in this region have been producing organic wines long before it became fashionable. Many winegrowers and winemakers simply believe that their wines show better when grown as naturally as possible. The aromas here include copious amounts of dark fruit with a liqueur-like character, combined with a subtle leafy note, white pepper and floral nuances. Moderate acidity and soft tannins create a smooth mouth feel in this medium-bodied wine. It’s ready to be enjoyed now and over the next year. (MT)


Esprit du Sud ‘Rouge’ 2007
AOC Languedoc $15.95 (104919)
Focused aromas of baking spices, red berries and milk chocolate create a pleasant nose on yet another organic product from the region. The wine is mainly comprised of Syrah (70%) with smaller amounts of Grenache and Carignan. It’s quite softly structured and medium in body, making it a very pleasant sipper all on its own. Meant to be enjoyed young, this wine is priced in your favour so I’d suggest stocking up to serve as an aperitif at your next gathering. (MT)


Camplazens Syrah 2006
Vin de Pays d’Oc $14.95 (104752)
The nose here shows good intensity of fruit (especially blueberry) with sweet spices, chocolate and garrigue notes rounding things out. With soft acidity and noticeable tannins, it feels fuller bodied than its 13% alcohol level would indicate. It’s drinking very well today and would pair nicely with rare grilled red meats, or could be cellared over the next two to three years. (MT)


La Bastide ‘Blanche Bandol’ 2006
AOC Bandol $25.95 (065375)
Give this wine a few minutes in the glass, or better yet, decant it in order to really appreciate the aromas. After a few swirls you’ll notice raspberry and red licorice aromas, with notes of black pepper, smoke and a pleasant herbal character. Structure is provided by moderate acidity, substantial mouth-coating tannins, and a very full body (14.5%). Today it’s a bit chewy in the mouth, so I’d suggest letting it sit for at least four years to allow the tannins to settle and achieve optimal balance. All the elements are in place for this wine to show very well in a few years, so be patient and enjoy after 2013 with roasted loin of venison. (MT)


Château La Tour de L’Evêque ‘Vendanges Manuelles’ 2004
AOC Côtes de Provence $17.95 (440123)
Explosive aromas of red berries and strawberry jam waft from the glass of this very nicely made wine. Underneath all the fruit are pleasant notes of vanilla and cinnamon, adding to the fun. It combines juicy acidity with refined tannins, and has great balance and length. With its structure, fruit profile and full body, this wine could easily pass for an California Zin costing a few dollars more. Lovely stuff, especially if you like a more opulent, fruit forward style – enjoy alongside grilled ribs in a sweet barbeque sauce. (MT)


Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez 'Carte Noire' Rosé 2007
AOC Côtes de Provence $14.95 (319384)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A Vintages Essentials product; it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. The pink-coral colour is a dazzling treat for the eye. The subtle aromas are primarily floral, spice and minerality. This hits its stride on the palate with a delicate, but steady, stream of piquant spice accompanied by citrus tang and spicy lemon zest. Medium in texture, weight and length of finish, it’s a well-balanced Rosé with good versatility at the table—on its own as an aperitif, or matched with light canapés, especially white meat, or seafood. (VH)

Sicily Feature

It used to be that the Sicilian grape Nero d’Avola was infamous for rustic wines with a fairly aggressive earthy/herbal character, often at the expense of the fruit. That’s not the case with the following three reds, which are full of fruit and provide all sorts of character. Following the reds is an intriguing white made from the indigenous Insolia grape, an under-the-radar varietal that can translate to great value.


Ajello Majus Nero d’Avola 2006
IGT Sicilia $16.95 (100545)
The nose here is surprisingly fruit forward, with plenty of cassis and plum fruits combining with mint and chocolate aromas. It’s very smooth with a soft structure, giving it a rich, easy-drinking profile. Balance is provided by the 14% alcohol and although it shows nicely today, it will continue to evolve over the next three to four years. It’s tremendous value for your wine-buying dollar. (MT)


Cusamano ‘Benuara’ 2007
IGT Sicilia $17.95 (597138)
This producer continually puts forward solid products, and here’s another example. This wine blends 70% Nero d’Avola with 30% Syrah, a grape that Cusamano has cultivated successfully for many years. Aromatically it’s spicy, with macerated berries, liqueur and coffee notes, and a touch of dill. In the mouth it’s soft in structure, featuring very ripe luscious fruit flavours and a full body. Slow braised lamb shank would do nicely. (MT)


Spadina Nero d’Avola 2006
IGT Sicilia, $16.95 (092932)
This version of the grape features a candied nose of raspberry and red plum, alongside a touch of mint and forest floor nuances. A pleasant vein of acidity gives a nice clean feeling in the mouth, and although not overly complex this medium-bodied wine is a very pleasant sipper. The red fruit character lasts long into the finish, making this another wine offering great value. Try it with soft cheeses. (MT)


Cusumano Insolia 2007
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (606350)
The Insolia grape is cultivated mainly in Tuscany and Sicily and not found in too many places other than Italy. Lesser-known varietals can mean great value as the bottle price isn’t driven up by consumer fads. A very pleasant nose features yellow apple and tinned pineapple fruit with fresh hay and floral notes. It combines good acidity with a somewhat creamy palate, a combination rarely found—Albariño from Spain being a notable exception). It’s on the lighter side of medium body, features great balance, and has nice length. If you’re in the mood for something different, give this a whirl and then go back to buy another armful as you’ll be pleasantly surprised. (MT)

The Main Release

British Columbia: White Wine

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate ‘Proprietor’s Grand Reserve’ Chardonnay 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $21.95 (643452)
Rich styles of Chardonnay are not only made in Burgundy, California and Australia—explore British Columbia. This beauty has a nose chock full of coconut, melon and peach, with toasted oak, caramel and hints of creamy butter. In the mouth it’s rich and buttery with just enough acidity to refresh and create balance. It’s full bodied and there are great fruit relays on the long finish. Steam up the lobster or pan sear some big juicy scallops; this wine is built for rich seafood in cream sauce. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. (MT)

Ontario: Red Wine

Inniskillin ’Reserve Series’ Meritage 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (091132)
This Meritage blends 70% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Franc, and both grapes make their presence felt. The concentrated nose offers dark and red plum fruit, tobacco leaf, mint and toast. Quite structurally sound, it sports medium acidity levels with noticeable lingering tannins. Modest alcohol (13%) doesn’t overwhelm, and the result is great balance. It’s got the stuffing to last at least six or seven years, or enjoy it sooner with rare red meats. (MT)


Hillebrand Trius Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (303800)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a 'Vintages Essentials' wine; it should always be available in (selected) LCBO stores. The blend is 41.5% Merlot, 29.5% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and the aromas and flavours are all about concentrated tangy ripe, red fruit—cranberry, cherry, plum and currant, infused with savoury spice. It's medium to full bodied, fully textured, with a long warm fruity finish. Very good value. (VH)

British Columbia: Red Wine

Osoyoos Larose ‘Le Grand Vin’ 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $44.95 (626325)
This iconic Bordeaux-style blend combines Merlot (67%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Born of a partnership between Vincor International and Group Taillan of France, this wine is impressive from the first sip to the last drop. Cassis and red berry fruit combine with a significant herbal character while notes of cocoa, roast coffee and leather all glide beneath. It’s firmly structured with good acidity and big, chewy tannins which need time to settle. Medium-bodied, it’s never-the-less a blockbuster of a wine, deserving no less than five years in your cellar. When you wipe the dust off the bottle, enjoy it all on its own as there’s more than enough here to keep your senses occupied. (MT)

USA: White Wine

Folie a Deux ‘Ménage a Trois White’ 2007
California $19.95 (656166)
This wine is an interesting blend of Chardonnay, Moscato and Chenin Blanc. Moscato makes its presence felt on the nose, which is full of floral character (orange blossom) as well as ripe peach and tangerine. It’s very slightly off-dry, with crisp acidity and medium body. I’d suggest pairing it with grilled halibut in a peach salsa. (MT)

California: Red Wine

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Stag’s Leap District, Napa Valley $79.95 (720961)
The nose of this powerful Cabernet is highly intense, with cassis and kirsch dominating more subtle notes of sweet spice, violets and oak. The tannins appear moderate but build over time. Although quite ripe, they’ll benefit from a few years in cellar. However, there’s plenty of fruit and alcohol (14%) to sufficiently offset the tannins and create balance. Unless you prefer a chewy wine, lay this down until 2012, letting the aromatic complexity develop. This pairs beautifully with Beef Wellington. (MT)


Dominus 2005
Napa Valley $127.95 (105890), $281.95 / 1500mL (063487)
Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) dominates the blend with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot providing the balance. It’s a fruit-driven style, combining blueberries with pepper, cedar and sweet spices. After a few minutes, notes of vanilla, fresh herbs and leather evolve, as well as a touch of heat from alcohol. The palate is full of very ripe, nearly sweet, fruit character and firm tannin to keep everything in check. It’s a full-bodied style which will hold your attention, but will need at least a couple of years to fully hit its stride. Best between 2011 and 2018. (MT)


Ridge ‘Geyserville’ 2006
Sonoma County $58.95 (723072)
Ridge is one of the three ‘Rs’ of California Zinfandel (the others being Ravenswood and Rosenblum) and, a personal favourite. Zinfandel dominates this blend at 70%, with Carignane, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre supporting. As one might expect from such a blend, it’s a fruit-forward style featuring blueberry pie aromas, cinnamon, milk chocolate and a touch of black pepper. A nice core of acidity combines with solid, somewhat chewy tannin, all on a full-bodied frame. Unlike a majority of Californian Zinfandels, this one will be best appreciated after about five years in cellar. Enjoy with spicy barbequed back ribs. (MT)


Seghesio 'Home Ranch' Zinfandel 2006
Alexander Valley $46.95 (070391)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) California Zin fans looking for a blockbuster wine with abundant rich, concentrated ripe fruit flavours from gnarly old vines need look no further. There's also an unmistakable touch of class from this family-owned estate winery. In spite of the incredibly rich (15.7% alcohol) concentrated and Port-like flavours, there's enough acidity for balance and ripe tannins for structure. The texture is divine—as you might have guessed from the high alcohol and concentrated fruit. Dishes that pair well include rabbit stew and spicy beef or an after dinner treat of aged cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (VH)


St. Francis Merlot 2005
Sonoma County $32.95 (422014)
The nose is very pretty, featuring red berry and dark plum fruits, a substantial floral note, milk chocolate and sweet spice. This aromatic character somewhat belies what’s waiting on the palate—a full-bodied, intense wine of serious structure. The tannins are big and velvety, the fruit is rich and ripe, and the flavours continue long on the finish. Definitely a cellar candidate, this wine is nicely paired with foods you serve with Cabernet Sauvignon—most manner of rare grilled meats or strong, firm cheeses. This offers exceptional value. (MT)

Argentina: White Wine

Graffigna ‘Centenario’ Pinot Grigio 2007
San Juan $14.95 (093732)
Pleasant aromas of peaches, white flowers and green apples await the taster of this Pinot Grigio. In the mouth, it’s light in body, with fresh acidity, good balance and decent length on the finish. It combines the aromatics of an Alsace Pinot Grigio with the structure of an Italian version, and at a very fair price. It will be very pleasing with baked white fish and poultry dishes. (MT)

Argentina: Red Wine

Alamos Pinot Noir 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (507822)
This is a very classy Pinot Noir, at an unbelievable price—had it confirmed, just to make certain. Pinot Noir under $15 doesn’t often drink like this. Earthy notes waft from the glass followed by typical sour cherry aromas, all wrapped in just a touch of cinnamon. It’s vibrant in the mouth with good acidity and negligible tannins. With 13.5% alcohol, it’s wonderfully balanced and has good length. Pair it with duck, salmon or veal, and load up as this is shockingly good value. (MT)


Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/Bonarda 2006
Mendoza $14.95 (657619)
This wine blends Syrah with Bonarda, a grape just gaining recognition. It has Italian origins (Piedmont) but is widely planted in Argentina, as well. The wine itself is spicy in character, with black licorice, juicy black fruit aromas and a subtle note of tar. In the mouth it’s juicy with just enough supporting tannin at the back end to provide balance. Medium in body, it’s a very pleasant quaffer or could be paired with roasted veal cutlets. (MT)


Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia Magna’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Syrah 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is drop-dead gorgeous; run, don’t walk, and pick up a case. Drink now, after a two-hour decant and on to 2014. Crushed dried berry and dusty mineral on the nose it explodes on the palate with rich concentrated and succulent flavours of raisined dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and dollops of thick creamy black raspberry jam. It’s still underpinned by grainy tannin, but will soften with bottle age. It’s medium to full bodied, fully textured and delicious on the well-balanced lengthy finish. (VH)


Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (723288)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Smooth and mellow on the palate, this also shows some complexity. There are aromas of spice and black plum that complement the flavours of spice, black Damson plum and cherry. This is medium bodied and very well balanced. Good moderating zest and tang on the finish. This pairs well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce - try spaghetti Bolognaise. (VH)

Chile: White Wine

Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $15.95 (396986)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is well balanced and delicious; look for mineral, stone fruit and vanilla aromas on the nose of this medium-bodied and nicely textured beauty. There's plenty to enjoy with rich fruit flavours of crisp citrus and spice-infused apple and pear. Pair this with pan-seared freshwater fish, trout or bass, under a drizzle of lemon juice. (VH)

Chile: Red Wine

Gracia de Chile ‘Reserva Superior’ Pinot Noir 2007
Bio Bio Valley $16.95 (090027)
The southern regions of Chile are wonderfully suited to the production of Pinot Noir. This wine and others, prove the point. This Pinot exhibits sour and red cherry fruits with underlying notes of mushroom, new leather and baking spices. It’s a very clean, approachable style offering vibrant acidity and soft but lingering tannin. The wine is well balanced with good length and nice ripe fruit character on the finish. Try it with grilled salmon, medium rare. (MT)

Australia: White Wine

Berton Vineyards ‘The White’ Viognier 2007
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (093435)
Focused aromatics include peaches, flowers and a touch of alcoholic warmth. This wine is obviously the result of a warm year and offers lower acidity and a full body, with balance created by the 14% alcohol level. It offers good typicity, solid length and terrific value. Baked trout with tropical fruit compote should do the trick. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (MT)


Chapel Hill ‘Unwooded’ Chardonnay 2007
South Australia $15.95 (034397)
‘Unwooded’ shouldn’t mean ‘without character’, which many people surmise, incorrectly, when they read the label. Aromatic complexity is achieved through allowing the wine to rest on its lees (spent yeast cells) for some time, giving it pleasant oak and yeast aromas without it actually aging in barrel. The fruit flavours are a combination of tangerine and melon, continuing through to the finish. There’s a pleasant tang provided by generous acidity plus a medium body. This wine is very versatile—enjoy as an aperitif or with a selection of tapas before the main course. This offers solid value. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

Grant Burge ‘Nebuchadnezzar’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley $33.95 (005934)
This is an equal blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon—a proven success story in Australia. Combine that with the track record of Grant Burge and we have another winner here. The concentrated nose isn’t shy as aromas of cassis, toasted oak and coffee jump out of the glass. On the palate, ripe, syrupy fruit flavours are to the fore, with deceptively big tannins providing great structure. Well balanced and long in finish, this wine can be enjoyed today and over the next five years. Pair it with grilled pepper steak. (MT)


Mitolo Jester Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (043224)
This wine is a might more serious than the name suggests. It features lifted aromatics of dark currant and blueberry fruit, with a healthy dollop of mint. Dark chocolate, smoke and leather nuances round out the complex nose. In the mouth, it’s a spicy, full-bodied style with a rich tannic structure to balance all the fruit. The flavours linger for quite some time, making this a solid wine from start to finish. Although drinking well today, it will only gain complexity with a few years in the cellar, so at this price I’d stock up to enjoy now and over the next five years. Great effort. (MT)


Vasse Felix Shiraz 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $39.95 (686550)
Although Margaret River produces a very small portion of Australian wine, it’s the source of a large percentage of its premium products. Vasse Felix is one of the producers responsible for this well-deserved reputation. Blueberry and pepper notes combine with dark chocolate and coffee tones along with a very subtle note of forest floor that provides even more complexity. It’s full-bodied with refined, robust tannins that create exceptional balance. If you can get your hands on some Kangaroo steak, it’s an unbelievable combination. (MT)

New Zealand: White Wine

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $33.95 (304469)
Perhaps no other producer in New Zealand can lay claim to having put this country on the map for its Sauvignon Blanc, and for good reason. This effort from Cloudy Bay is quite impressive and certainly evolves over time in the glass. It opens with green melon aromas combining with the fresh grass and bell pepper that’s so typical of the region. Myer lemon flavours appear on the palate, which is softer in acidity than previous vintages, giving a somewhat oily mouth feel. Medium in body and impressive in length, this wine will not only be enjoyable today but also over the next few years. Try it with pan-seared halibut with fresh herbs. (MT)


Composite Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Ara, Marlborough $19.95 (096693)
This is a very classy Sauvignon Blanc, not too aggressive yet still packing an impressive punch. Grapefruit, grass and mineral notes form the aromatics, while crisp acidity keeps your mouth watering. Medium in body and deftly balanced, this wine is as solid on the palate as it is on the nose. Very impressive for the price – try it with a salad of heirloom tomatoes and goat cheese. (MT)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Noir 2008
Hawkes Bay $15.00 (694901)
Three Pinot Noirs under $18 with great varietal character in the same release—bravo to Vintages. This wine showcases sour cherry fruit with wild mushroom, sweet spice and a touch of eucalyptus. Lively acidity helps form the structure and combines with a fairly light body to provide a very refreshing wine. Be sure to chill it for twenty minutes or so before pairing with a salad of mixed greens and wild salmon in sesame vinaigrette. This is simply ‘yummy’ and outstanding value. (MT)


Te Awa Cabernet/Merlot 2004
Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay $19.95 (095984)
Much of New Zealand is better suited to cool climate varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, this particular region has the reputation and ability to produce some really nice Bordeaux varietals. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Merlot (29%) and Cabernet Franc, and is outstanding. A fruit-driven style, it offers dark plum, black cherry and raspberry fruit character with chocolate and herbal notes. On the palate it seems soft initially, then substantial tannins make themselves known over time. It’s full -bodied, has gorgeous texture, and could be enjoyed tonight and over the next six years. This is a fabulous wine for the price. (MT)

South Africa: Red Wine

Seven Sisters ‘Carol’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Western Cape $13.95 (079681)
This Cabernet offers a nose of cassis, dark chocolate and a nice herbal character. Light to medium in body, it also features a nice core of acidity with soft tannins that create nice balance. Approachable in its youth, it’s priced to for quick sale—get your hands on some and enjoy with a braised beef dish. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château du Mignon 2004
AOC Saint-Émilion $29.95 (092122)
Hailing from the ‘right bank’ of the Garonne river, this is predominantly Merlot. It has a great nose, very typical of the region. Basically this means dark currant fruits with bitter chocolate, a splash of pepper, and a leafy undertone. Refreshing acidity combines with mellow tannins on a lighter-bodied frame. It will gain complexity with a few years of age, or could be enjoyed today with braised leg of lamb. (MT)

Rhône Valley

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317)
Here’s a perennially fantastic wine from one of the world’s top wine producers. This Châteauneuf has an expressive nose of pepper, red and dark berry fruits, leather and vanilla. Throw in some earthy notes, wild mushrooms and licorice and you’ve got all the complexity a well-crafted wine from this region should offer. In the mouth, ripe fruit flavours combine with 14% alcohol to provide a nearly sweet sensation, yet substantial ripe tannins create solid balance. It really needs some time to come into its own—lay it down for four to six years before decanting and enjoying with rare rack of lamb. This is a terrific wine deserving of a spot in your cellar and on your table. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Tuscany

Antinori ‘Solaia’ 2005
IGT Toscana $234.95 (987586)
This cult classic is always a hit with collectors and this vintage should prove no exception. The nose currently features herbal and mineral notes, with dried figs, cranberry, espresso and chocolate notes. The palate offers a great core of acidity with persistent, lingering tannins, creating modest balance today but with the promise of even greater integration in a few years. I’m not a fan of pairing such a complex wine with anything but the simplest of flavours, so when it’s ready enjoy this wine with firm cheeses. (MT)


Il Borro ‘Rosso’ 2005
IGT Toscana $59.95 (661769)
This is the result of a blend of 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot. The combination proves outstanding as this wine shows plenty of complexity and wonderful drinkability. The nose features coffee aromatics combined with dark and dried fruit character, pleasing notes of violet, and subtle leafy and peppery notes. The palate is dense with a nice core of acidity framed by substantial, ripe tannin. While a touch young, it’s drinking fairly well today and should last easily for another decade. Enjoy with braised beef. (MT)


Ruffino Tenuta ‘Santedame’ Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (523076)
An attractive nose brings notes of red cherries, menthol, earth and savoury spice. In the mouth, this Chianti is lively with bright acidity and good tannic structure, making it a solid candidate for short- to mid-term cellaring. It’s medium-bodied and is a seamless match with Osso Bucco or a simpler meal of pasta with meat balls. (MT)

Veneto

Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $89.95 (986117)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Known as "the Master of the Veneto", patriarch Giuseppe Quintarelli and family produce some of the most treasured, and most expensive, wine in Italy. This is rich and well structured, look for aromas of dried spicy berry fruit. They show the way for copious amounts of mulberry and red cherry fruit flavours, all nicely moderated by a stream of zest and tang. Well balanced and nicely textured, this will appeal to collectors. (VH)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta do Infantado Red 2006
DOC Douro $23.95 (095158)
Classic Port varietals (Touriga Nacional, Tinta Franca and Tinta Roriz) form the blend of this delicious wine. The nose is very expressive, evoking dark plums with milk chocolate and anise. The palate brings mellow levels of acidity with moderate, nicely resolved tannins to balance the copious fruit and a relatively full body. It’s rich in the mouth, and those dark fruit and chocolate notes linger nicely on the finish. Try it with beef in a gorgonzola cream sauce. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

Viňa Albali ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DO Valdepeňas $19.95 (009621)
Here’s a Wow! wine to consider. The nose is absolutely gorgeous with red cherry fruits intermingling with dried figs, coffee, nuts and leather. There’s superb aromatic balance between fruit and oak, indicating it’s approaching optimal drinking . Refreshing acidity and substantial, yet nicely resolved, tannins create exceptional balance on this medium-bodied wine. The flavours linger forever and are a pleasant mix of oak, fruit and spice. This is an exquisite example of a slightly aged Spanish red from the Tempranillo grape. It’ll be enjoyable tonight and over the next three to four years. This offers outstanding value. (MT)

New in the LCBO

Viña Montgras ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley, Chile $11.95 (619205)
This opens with aromas of cranberry, red cherry and spice box. The flavours are a glorious amalgam of black briary berry and black currant jam that are nicely balanced with pie cherry zest and a snap of grainy tannin on the lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured. It’s also very good value (earning its final half star on value), pairing extremely well with bar b cued back ribs smothered in a spicy sauce. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Dave Isaacs, winecurrent webmaster, tasted the following wines at the recent Ontario Wine Fair in Ottawa.


Cattail Creek ‘Off Dry’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00
Cattail Creek grows many different clones of Riesling. The clone used in this wine is known as the Alsatian, and the wine lives up to that name. The wine has a nose of mineral, pear and citrus, with a touch of waxiness to give it some added complexity. It has enough acidity to balance it's off dry character and give it a predominantly green apple finish. Sip this wine by itself or with spicy Thai food. Order online from Cattail Creek. (DI)


Cattail Creek ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.00
Eighty-two percent of this wine was fermented in French oak barrels, with the remaining eighteen percent fermented in stainless steel. This blend gives the wine a fresh clean nose with an interesting mix of oak, mineral, and citrus fruit. It is medium bodied with fruit and caramel flavours and a long mouthwatering finish. Enjoy with fettucine alfredo or white fish with a cream sauce. Order online from Cattail Creek. (DI)


Cattail Creek Gamay Noir 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00
A well-executed Gamay—half aged in French oak barrels and the other half in stainless steel. It has a lively cherry vanilla nose and juicy sour cherry taste. It’s medium bodied with barely noticeable tannin. Serve it slightly chilled and it will be a fine companion for your summertime backyard BBQs. Order online from Cattail Creek. (DI)


Cattail Creek Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.00
This wine has been aged in a mix of French and American oak. It has a strawberry nose with overtones of earth, leaves and oak. Quite jammy and fruity on the palate, with a medium body and a lively fruit finish. The medium-to-low tannins make this very pleasant to drink now, but able to lie in the cellar for a year or two. Try this with slow-cooked BBQ ribs. Order online from Cattail Creek. (DI)

Lailey Vineyard ‘Niagara Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara River $25.00
The aromas from the estate-grown fruit offer an exquisite touch of oak with hints of pear and citrus. The oak is much more pronounced on the palate, and is complemented with layers of pear and delicious spiced apple. It’s medium bodied with a balanced acidity that delivers a long and lingering pear finish. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery directly from Lailey Vineyard. (DI)


Lailey Vineyard ‘Niagara River’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara River $25.00
One of winemaker Derek Barnett’s favourite varietals, it was vinified in small batches in search of perfect balance. It’s pale red to the eye and pleasantly earthy to the nose, with notes of chalk and dried leaves. It’s medium bodied and delivers big fruit dominated by tart cherry. There are enough tannins to lay it down for a year or two, but it’s drinking nicely right now. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery directly from Lailey Vineyard. (DI)


Lailey Vineyard ‘Niagara River’ Syrah 2007
VQA Niagara River $25.00
This wine delights from beginning to end. It’s a striking dark plum colour with a big spicy nose that has layers of stewed fruit and musty barn. The fruit continues on the palate, along with a full body, very approachable tannins and a finish that keeps going and going. Winemaker Derek Barnett fashions his wines with the dinner table in mind; enjoy this with a medium-rare pepper steak with mushroom sauce. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery directly from Lailey Vineyard. (DI)

Cheers, Mark, Dave and Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar