February 14, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on wines from South Africa, followed by a feature on Valentine’s Day. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Don’t miss great and great-value wines following the Main Release.
• Champagne and sparkling wines galore to inject some pizzazz into February 14.
• Finding Waldo – find the three wines at $13.95 scoring 4 and 4 1/2 stars.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Regrettably, winecurrent says farewell to Lindsay Groves as a regular reviewer. Her incredibly busy schedule and popularity have simply caught up with the number of available hours in a day. I'm certain winecurrent subscribers have enjoyed and benefited from her unbiased tasting skills, excellent reviews as well as her extensive wine knowledge. However, it's a small wine world and we'll see her writings and reviews from time to time. Lindsay is wished the very best of luck along with sincere thanks for her generous contributions.

South Africa Feature

Blends

The Cloof Cellar Blend 2005
WO Darling $20.95 (037408)
This wine blends Tinta Barocca, Pinotage and Shiraz with a nose as intriguing as the blend. Abundant red fruits combine with floral, new leather and sweet spice notes to form the aroma profile. Ripe fruit flavours continue through to the palate, which is softly structured with ripe tannins. It’s full bodied with great balance, nice length, and is quite fruit-driven for a South African wine. Good value. (MT)


TMV ‘Viktoria Red’ 2005
WO Western Cape $19.95 (098095)
This combines Shiraz with lesser amounts of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Cabernet—a blend influenced by wines from the south of France. The nose is quite fruity with red plum and blueberry notes. At 14% alcohol, it’s juicy in the mouth with a nice core of acidity and very soft tannins. It will make an enjoyable sipper on its own or a fine partner for mild cheeses. (MT)

Pinotage

Café Culture Pinotage 2008
WO Western Cape $13.95 (072710)
Packaging still plays a big role in wine sales and this is one nice looking bottle of wine. It’s very typical of traditional Pinotage style: super smoky on the nose, with almost a burnt rubber character. Dark fruit flavours appear on the palate, but roasted coffee and smoke flavours dominate. There’s refreshing acidity and low tannins on a full-bodied frame sporting moderate balance and length. Smoked Gouda would be a good pairing. (MT)

Shiraz

Graham Beck ‘The Ridge’ Syrah 2003
WO Robertson $25.95 (607812)
Here’s another great effort from a producer that simply doesn’t disappoint. Having tasted whites, reds, sparkling and dessert wines from Beck, I’m always impressed. The nose here is very concentrated, featuring blue and black berry fruit along with black pepper and chocolate nuances. There’s also a pleasant touch of mint for further complexity. Structure is provided by very ripe tannins which are resolving nicely, providing great balance for the 14.5% alcohol. The finish is long and full of dark fruit flavours. It’s drinking very well today but could hold on for another couple of years should you choose to lay some down. I’d try it with braised lamb or duck in a simple red wine sauce. (MT)


Groenland Shiraz 2004
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (096461)
There’s plenty of fruit on the nose here—mainly red plum and blackberry—combining with vanilla, milk chocolate and white pepper aromas. It’s softly structured with just a slight tannic pull, giving it good balance for the style. This wine is full in body with good length, and will be a pleasant surprise for those who think Australia is the only place for fun, fruit forward styles of Shiraz. Try it with roast lamb. (MT)


Stark-Condé Syrah 2005
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (079525)
The enjoyable aromas are a nice mix of raspberries and dark berries alongside a very definite note of smoked meat and coffee. It’s full-bodied and very softly structured, reminiscent of a New World style. The flavours linger nicely with oak nuances becoming apparent late in the finish. A good candidate for mild cheeses, it’s very good value. (MT)

Valentine’s Day Feature

Champagne

Deutz Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $63.95 (0092833)
With its pretty medium salmon-pink hue, this medium-bodied Champagne is refined with aromas of rose petal, red currant, cherry and a touch of breadiness. Dry and crisp with a lively mousse, there are flavours reminiscent of strawberry shortcake on the palate with a fresh strawberry finish. It has 12% alcohol. Although beautiful on its own, this enchanting rosé would be delicious with rare pan-seared tuna. (LG)


Gosset Grand Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $79.95 (0989442)
Gosset is the oldest known producer of wine in Champagne, tracing its roots back to Pierre Gosset in 1584. The grapes come from 45 different villages in the Marne département, mainly from Grands Crus and Premiers Crus with an average rating of 95%. A seductive coppery-pink colour, it’s light to medium bodied with notes of stewed peaches, strawberry, sweet brioche, floral and a touch of fennel. Dry and elegantly structured, it’s well balanced and comes to a close with fresh red fruit flavours. (LG)

Sparkling Wine

Langlois-Chateau Brut Rosé Non-Vintage
AOC Crémant de Loire $21.95 (0092940)
100% Cabernet Franc, the grapes are hand harvested and gently pressed. Pale to medium salmon-pink, its lively mousse and tart acidity gives it a fresh feel. Dry and medium bodied with 12.5% alcohol, there are notes of strawberry, cherry, floral, pepper and violet with a light fruity finish. (LG)


Banfi Rosa Regale 2007
DOCG Brachetto d’Acqui $15.95 (0936765) 375ml
Light ruby in colour, this easy going, low alcohol (7%) sparkler shows aromas of rose, strawberry, cherry and maple syrup. Medium sweet and medium bodied with a mellow mouth feel, it’s a fun little wine to pair with a variety of desserts, try it with mini chocolate gateau topped with a scoop of raspberry gelato. (LG)


Belcanto Di Bellussi Cuvée Rosé Spumante Brut Non-Vintage
VSQ Oltrepò Pavese $22.95 (0043521)
Delicate and soft, its baby-pink colour matches its light-hearted aromas of cherry, strawberry, bubblegum and appealing floral notes. Dry and light to medium bodied, the texture is pleasantly creamy with fresh acidity, 12% alcohol and a light berry finish. This would be a great wine to start off a meal along with a traditional antipasto plate. (LG)


Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve’ Brut 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (0587691)
This is a very impressive sparkler at a great price, with a bouquet of citrus, ripe apple, mead and digestive cookies. Dry and medium bodied, it’s crisp with a medium-fine mousse, 12.4% alcohol and a yeasty finish. Drink as an apéritif or serve with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon on a blini with fresh cream cheese and chives. (LG)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Ca’Del Bosco Franciacorta ‘Cuvée Prestige’ Brut Non-Vintage
DOCG Franciacorta $49.95 (0105353)
Franciacorta is traditional method sparkling wine from the Lombardy region. They also use similar varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Noir) as well as Pinot Blanc), making this an interesting comparison to its better-known cousin. This particular bottle was disgorged in the fall of 2008, as listed on the bottle. Medium straw-yellow in colour, there are aromas of biscuit, apple, lemon custard and macadamia nut. Dry and medium bodied, there’s good intensity on the palate, with structured acidity, a tight mousse, 12.5% alcohol and ripe, fruity flavours. Well-made and very enjoyable. (LG)


Castellblanch ‘Brut Zero Cava Reserva’ Non-Vintage
DO Penedès $15.95 (0094813)
This blend of 60% Parellada, 30% Macabeo and 10% Xarel-lo is pale straw in colour with subtle floral, oily, apple and citrus notes. Dry and light bodied, it’s nice and crisp with good purity of fruit, some mineral elements and an active mousse. It’s 11.5% alcohol and finishes fresh and clean. Match it up with lightly battered flash-fried calamari with a squeeze of lemon. (LG)


Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (0078055)
This is the first vintage ever of this sparkling rosé from Château des Charmes. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, only 2400 bottles were produced and disgorging took place just prior to release. Candy floss, red berries, floral, yeast and strawberry cheesecake aromas come together onto the dry and medium-bodied palate. With a creamy mousse and crisp acidity, it’s 12% alcohol and finishes with poise. (LG)


Graham Beck Brut Non-Vintage
WO Western Cape $18.95 (0593483)
From an assemblage of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir; 30% of this blend was fermented in 205 litre Piece Champenoise barrels. Complex aromas of apple, yeast, mushroom and meat broth are followed by a dry and medium-bodied palate. Crisp and 12% alcohol, the mousse is medium-fine and lively with a pleasant yeasty, apple finish. For a luxurious mid-afternoon snack, relax with a flute of this Cap Classique and an apple tartlet. (LG)

Ontario: White Wine

Inniskillin ‘Commemorative Edition’ Vidal Icewine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.85 (0087775) 375ml
Inniskillin is the original icewine producer in Ontario and has gained an international reputation – for good reason. There are classic floral aromas on the nose, with peach, honey, ripe apple and lemon drops. Sweet and low alcohol (9%) it’s light- to medium-bodied palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. Luscious and opulent, save it for dessert or for a twist pour it along with your favourite vodka for icewine martinis! (LG)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 (0056929)
This is a great example of a classy, well-structured Chardonnay. It’s too bad that there’s a whole generation of ABC wine drinkers who have been turned-off by over-the-top cheap New World Chards, because they don’t know what they are missing with beauties like this. Full bodied and elegant, there’s structured acidity, great intensity of flavours and great balance. Notes of apple, cedar, citrus, spice and coconut make their way from the nose all the way to the long, luxurious finish. Lovely ripe fruit and creamy caramel on every sip will ensure that there’s not a drop left in the bottle. It’s 13.5% alcohol. (LG)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (033910)
Here’s a premium Niagara white wine garnering a great reputation for itself. The nose features sweet oak and lots of it, with ripe yellow apple and melon fruits. The palate is creamy with soft acidity, and balanced nicely by the 13% alcohol. The combination of oak and ripe fruit give it an almost sweet sensation on the palate, and the finish is long. Enjoy with rich seafoods like lobster and scallops. (MT)

Ontario: Red Wine

Henry of Pelham Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.75 (091165)
This is a great choice for the VQA Wine of the Month. It’s wonderfully concentrated in aroma, with ripe dark and red fruits mingling with a pleasant earthiness. Dark chocolate, cedar and smoky nuances complete the picture. In the mouth, the moderate, very ripe tannins create superb balance and a silky character. With a medium body and great length, this is a solid example of well-crafted Merlot. It’s fantastic value and would be just the thing for Berkshire pork. (MT)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 (0033951)
Medium ruby-brick in colour, there are lovely aromas of dried roses, floral, earth, cherry and red currant. Dry and medium-plus bodied, the silky texture and fine tannins are complemented by fresh acidity and good length on the finish. Although it’s probably better to leave it in the cellar for a few years, if you just can’t wait, try it with roasted Portobello mushrooms smeared with tapenade and topped with goat’s cheese. (LG)


Le Clos Jordanne ‘La Petite Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (033944)
The aromatic profile here is very pretty, featuring floral, strawberry and earthy notes. Sweet spice and mineral nuances create further complexity. Structure is provided by refreshing acidity and medium body, combining to create nice balance and length. It’s delicious today but will likely reward 3 to 4 years in the cellar with further aromatic complexity. (MT)

California: White Wine

Hess ‘Su’Skol Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $37.95 (0709394)
Once an ancient seabed, the Su’Skol vineyard is composed of mainly clay soil with a fossil-clay topsoil. Situated less than 10 km from San Francisco Bay, the vines are influenced by the cool maritime climate – the fog coming off the water and afternoon breezes help to keep average temperatures lower. This richly full-figured wine shows off with notes of cake, citrus, vanilla, tropical fruit and cedar. Fairly pronounced flavours on the palate are held together by medium acidity and a long finish. This wine would be amazing with Baccala Agnelotti (LG)

California: Red Wine

Folie à Deux ‘Ménage à Trois Red’ 2007
California $19.95 (665158)
It’s hard to pass up reviewing a wine with a name like this. This wine blends Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas are very fruit driven, nearly syrupy, with plum, black and blueberry fruits combining with sweet spices and a touch of oak. It’s softly structured with a juicy, ripe fruit flavor profile and medium body. It’s an easy drinking style which could be enjoyed on its own, or with roast turkey or chicken. (MT)


Opus One 2005
Napa Valley $360.95 750 mL / $189.95 375mL (multiple #s)
This cult classic results from a partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux fame. It’s a blend of classic Bordeaux varietals—Cabernet Sauvignon with lesser amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It’s full of fruit flavours--dark currant and sweet cassis—with roasted espresso, black pepper, dark chocolate and mineral notes. A nice touch of tobacco comes around after a few minutes in the glass. It’s firmly structured with big, very ripe tannins creating a chewy texture, yet still well balanced due to all the fruit. It’s full-bodied with a long finish and best be appreciated between 2012 and 2018. (MT)


Ridge ‘Santa Cruz Mountains Estate’ 2005
Santa Cruz Mountains $60.95 (0089284)
Chock-full of liquorice and cherry, this wine is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot. Deep ruby-purple in colour, it’s full bodied with bright acidity, medium tannins and 13.7% alcohol. Notes of vanilla, blackberry, mulberry, chestnut and spice fill out the palate. Enjoy a glass of this Cab blend with Beef Wellington and garden vegetables. (LG)

Argentina: White Wine

Bodegas Catena Zapata ‘Alamos’ Viognier 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (507830)
Viognier can be a wonderful grape when done right, but rarely is it done as nicely as this, especially at this price point. Expressive aromas include peach and apricot fruit, a pleasing floral character and some fresh herbal notes. The acidity and body are both moderate, creating a refreshing, smooth feel in the mouth with good balance and solid length. Try it with baked white fish in a peach salsa. (MT)

Argentina: Red Wine

Carinae ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza $15.95 (0088658)
This small winery has none other than the iconic Michel Rolland as their consultant, who visits twice annually to taste and help with the blending. This juicy number has youthful aromas of mulberry, blackberries, cassis and pomegranate on the bouquet. Dry and medium to full bodied, the approachable tannins are set off by fresh acidity and 14.5% alcohol. Give it a go with spicy beef kebabs on a bed of rice. (LG)


Domaine Jean Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Tupungato Valley, Mendoza $16.95 (0678813)
Enticing floral notes greet the nose on the bouquet, with lush black fruit adding warmth and flesh. Dry and medium to full bodied, juicy black fruit acidity balances out soft tannins and 13.8% alcohol, giving the wine a velvety texture. Because of its easy-going structure and good acidity, this wine will pair nicely with a wide variety of foods. Try it casually with your favourite saucy chicken wings. (LG)

Australia: White Wine

Cockfighter’s Ghost ‘Unwooded’ Chardonnay 2006
Hunter Valley $18.95 (090977)
This has focused aromatics of yellow apple, citrus fruits and white flowers, with some yeasty notes from the sur lie treatment of this wine. It features bracing acidity on a light-bodied frame, and although somewhat tart, there’s no doubt that’s the intent. It’s crisp and delicious with good length, and will do quite nicely alongside chilled pasta salad with goat cheese. (MT)


D’Arenberg ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier/Marsanne 2007
McLaren Vale / Adelaide Hills $17.95 (662775)
This blend is more common to France’s northern Rhone Valley, but D’Arenberg has enjoyed good success with this same combination for several years. An expressive nose yields canned pineapple, green apple, candle wax and white flowers. The intriguing thing about both Viognier and Marsanne is their ability to carry lively acidity while still providing a slightly creamy feel in the mouth. It’s medium in body with great balance, and the flavours linger nicely. Pair it with crab cakes in a chipotle mayonnaise. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

D’Arenberg ‘The High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (0943456)
This particular vineyard has been in production since the late 19th century. It got its name from the fact that these were the first vines to be trained vertically above knee-height. With touches (5% each) of Petit Verdot and Merlot in the blend, there are complex notes of tar, tobacco, mint, pepper, floral and a healthy helping of black fruit. Dry and medium to full bodied, there’s great acidity alongside velvety tannins and 14.5% alcohol. (LG)


Kilikanoon ‘Blocks Road’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $34.95 (0926790)
Ripe blackberry fruit and vanilla are the first aromas to come forward on the nose and are followed on the palate by plush ripe notes of cassis, mulberry and plum. Dry and medium to full bodied, there’s a balanced acid/tannin structure and 14.5% alcohol. This wine would be a good match for a strip loin, grilled medium with crispy roasted potatoes. (LG)


Knappstein Cabernet/Merlot 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (0593350)
Founded in 1974, this producer ferments the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec grapes that compose this blend in open top fermenters before ageing the wine for 24 months in one and two-year-old barrels. Deep ruby in colour and intense on the nose, there are aromas of mint, chocolate, garrigue/eucalyptus, herbs and black fruit. Dry and full bodied, it has medium acidity, moderate tannins, 14.5% alcohol and good intensity. (LG)


Water Wheel Memsie 2007
Bendigo $13.95 (656637)
Here’s Australia’s version of a Bordeaux blend, combining 70% Shiraz with Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Red and dark fruits, pepper and clove spices, menthol and oak are all apparent on the pleasant nose. The palate is full of very ripe fruit flavours with balance provided by soft tannins and plenty of alcohol (14.5%). It has very good length and will pair nicely with roasted rack of lamb. One doesn’t taste many wines of this quality for this price; get to the store before I do! (MT)

South Africa: White Wine

Delheim ‘Sur Lie’ Chardonnay 2007
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $17.95 (0956219)
Made in a full-blown buttery-toasty style, the aromas on the nose of this wine will make you drool with hazelnut, cedar, caramel, apple and yeasty notes. Dry and full bodied, there’s a crisp spine of acidity along with pronounced flavours matching the nose followed by 13.5% alcohol and a ongoing finish. Especially at this price point, it’s worth picking up a few bottles. Try a glass with linguine Vongole (clams in a white wine sauce with fresh parsley). (LG)


Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Coastal Region $13.95 (0948620)
This is a quintessential South African Sauv Blanc with pepper, gooseberry, citrus, grass, herbs, white flowers and green pepper aromas. Dry and light to medium bodied, there’s even more green pepper on the palate, with 13% alcohol and good intensity of flavour on the finish. Try pairing it with a frisée salad with breaded goat cheese and topped with a little orange zest. (LG)

France: White Wine

Alsace

Martin Steimer Pinot Gris 2007
AOC Alsace $18.95 (106807)
This is very nice stuff indeed, with fabulously concentrated aromas of honeyed peach and pear fruit, acacia flowers and red apples. It’s off-dry in the mouth with a slippery mouth feel that’s so typical of Alsace Pinot Gris. Refreshing acidity and a medium body create great balance and length. It’s rich enough for orange-glazed duck, yet lively enough to suit a wide range of spicy appetizers. (MT)

Bordeaux

Château Jarr 2007
AOC Bordeaux $15.95 (106849)
There are plenty of lemon and grapefruit aromas here, alongside fresh grass and mineral notes. This blend is dominated by Sauvignon Blanc and that really shows in this wine’s character. It’s quite crisp, light in body and nicely balanced with plenty of citrus flavours. Try taking it out of the fridge for about 20 minutes before enjoying with veal scaloppini. (MT)

Burgundy

La Chablisienne Chablis ‘La Singulière’ 1er Cru 2005
AOC Chablis $29.95 (0685222)
Producing wines since 1923, La Chablisienne’s La Singulière undergoes both yeast and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel before ageing on fine lees for 12 months in tank and small barrel. Lean and zesty, this Chablis is medium bodied with crisp acidity and 13% alcohol. Notes of mineral, pineapple juice, apple, pear and citrus are layered on the palate with a touch of butter and drawing to a close with flavours of almond. (LG)


Maison Champy Pernand-Vergelesses 2006
AOC Pernand-Vergelesses $29.95 (0008151)
Subtle and elegant, this wine is produced by the oldest winery in Burgundy (est. 1720). Medium straw in colour, delicious notes of apple, pineapple, nuts and light butterscotch will taunt you. After giving in and taking a sip, you’ll discover a medium bodied wine with crisp acidity, 13.5% alcohol and well-integrated flavours. For a synergistic match, couple this beautiful Burgundy with fresh oysters. (LG)

Loire Valley

Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon 1996
AOC Coteaux du Layon $37.95 (707307)
If you haven’t yet tried Coteaux du Layon, give this a whirl! It’s ‘moelleux’, a.k.a. semi-sweet, giving it incredible versatility in pairing with a variety of foods. The nose has a Sherry-like character, with nuttiness, buckwheat honey, beeswax and green apple aromas. It has great acidity and fantastic balance on a medium-bodied frame. It’ll work with Duck à l’Orange, nut tortes, and even New England clam chowder. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Alsace

Pierre Sparr Pinot Noir ‘Réserve’ 2007
AOC Alsace $17.95 (038992)
We don’t see too many red wines from Alsace, as the majority are consumed domestically. With its relatively cool climate, this region is well-suited to Pinot Noir. The nose features focused aromas of cranberry, red cherry and mushroom, with a touch of slate underneath the fruit. It has refreshing acidity and is light in body, making it another food-friendly choice. Classic with seared duck, it can also carry off smoked meats and cold cuts quite nicely. Try chilling it for 20 minutes before serving. (MT)

Burgundy

Albert Bichot Pinot Noir ‘Vielles Vignes’ 2006
AOC Bourgogne $18.95 (0043331)
Exported to over 100 countries, Albert Bichot leans towards the organic philosophy in the vineyard and has a similar aim when it comes to winemaking: “minimum interference so as to favour the expression of fruit”. Medium ruby in the glass, there’s aromas of ripe cherry, cassis, red currant, leather and earth. Dry and medium bodied, this wine is straightforward and upbeat with 12.6% alcohol. The fresh acidity and silky tannins give it a polished texture. An easy-going and versatile food wine, this works with everything from pasta to hamburgers. (LG)


Louis Jadot Beaune ‘Boucherottes’ 1er Cru 2006
AOC Beaune $59.95 (0047837)
Covering just about 21 acres, the Boucherottes vineyard is situated at the southern end of the commune of Beaune, bordering Pommard. Aged in barrel 12-15 months, this well-structured red has notes of leather, cocoa, cherry, red currant, vanilla and cedar on the nose. Dry and medium plus to full bodied, the fresh acidity and 13.5% alcohol lead to a juicy red fruit finish. According to Jadot, this wine will age for 12-15 years if cellared properly. Serve it with a selection of cheeses and cured meats. (LG)

Loire Valley

Domaine Olivier ‘Les Clos Lourioux’ 2005
AOC Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil $20.95 (0082297)
This pleasant little Cab Franc is deep ruby in colour with spice, pepper, meaty, cassis, cherry, cocoa and floral notes. Dry and pronounced on the palate, it’s full bodied with structured tannins, 13.5% alcohol, medium acidity and pepper and raspberry flavours. I recommend picking up a couple bottle of this wine to drink with hearty winter food such as stew with root vegetables. (LG)

Italy: Red Wine

Campania

Mastroberardino Aglianico 2006
IGT Campania $22.95 (093112)
This wine’s aromatics include raspberry and plum alongside mushroom, dark coffee and oak notes. The nearly candied quality of the fruit belies the firm texture on the palate, which features big tannins, good acidity and a medium body. Although a little young today, it’s still well balanced with nice length. It’s a good candidate to cellar for 3 to 4 years, or to enjoy tonight with rare beef. (MT)

Piedmont

Giribaldi Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco $33.95 (0101147)
Medium brick in colour, kirsch, raspberry, earth, tobacco, floral and pepper notes spill onto the medium-bodied palate. Dry and fresh, there’s bright, crisp acidity, fine tannins and 14% alcohol. Its good finesse and elegance makes this wine a great partner for medium-rare beef tenderloin with rosemary mashed potatoes. (LG)


Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco $73.95 (0112474)
Attractive and aromatic, dusty tobacco, tar, pepper and dried herb aromas will easily win you over. Dry and full bodied, crisp acidity and moderate tannins knit together the red fruit flavours along with 13.5% alcohol. Why not enjoy this beauty with roasted lamb chops rubbed in olive oil, salt, pepper and rosemary. (LG)


Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba 2006
DOC Barbera d’Alba $21.95 (938886)
This producer is a perennial favourite and for good reason. Red berry and cherry fruits, sweet spice and just a touch of oak make for a very pleasing aromatic profile. In the mouth, the refreshing acidity and soft tannins create the structure so typical of this style. It’s nicely balanced with good length, and will be equally comfortable with game bird or firm-textured fish such as tuna or halibut. (MT)

Puglia

Rivera Il Falcone ‘Riserva’ 2004
DOC Castel del Monte $21.95 (0945154)
An interesting rosso made with 70% Nero di Troia and 30% of the better-known Montepulciano grape. Deep brick in colour, verging on garnet, notes of coffee, earth, cherry, prune and cassis dominate the bouquet. Dry and full bodied, it’s fairly rustic with firm tannins, medium acidity, 13.5% alcohol and dried fruit and spice (orange peel and clove) on the finish. (LG)

Tuscany

Gaja ‘Ca’Marcanda Promis’ 2006
IGT Toscana $49.95 (0745638)
A smart wine from a well-known producer, it’s a blend of Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese. The nose is rather brawny and austere with black fruit, liquorice, pepper, cherry, cassis and spice. Dry and full bodied, the flavours are pronounced with medium acidity, firm tannins and 14.5% alcohol. Best to keep this one in the cellar for some time. When it comes time to crack it open, give it a nice juicy rib eye, done medium rare. (LG)


Rocca Delle Macie ‘Tenuta Sant’ Alfonso’ Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (0942094)
Deep ruby-brick in the glass, this one’s got raspberry, blackberry, cassis, liquorice and spice aromas. Dry and pronounced, it’s medium to full bodied with bright acidity, firm tannins, 14% alcohol and impressive intensity. It’s hard to go wrong with this classic and well-priced Chianti—a versatile food wine, try it with a simple spaghetti bolognaise. (LG)

Veneto

Brigaldara Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $26.95 (958090) 375 mL
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent in the 750 mL format)) This is a gorgeous expression of the style and flavours of Amarone made in a traditional fastidious manner. Often the recipient of Gambero Rosso’s 3-glass award, this is rich, opulent and ready for the glass. Aromas and flavours of warm sweet black raspberry compote (16% alcohol), raisin and dried berry fruit are carried along on the most heavenly creamy texture and full-bodied frame. The finish is balanced, fruity, persistent and luxurious. Drink now to 2015 (in the 750 mL). (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages release: November 2009

Doña Paula Estate ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Luján de Cuyo, Argentina $16.95 (66189)
Rich, dark and expressive, this sports aromas of chocolate, dark berry fruit and espresso roast. The warm, sweet flavours (14% alcohol) include black currant and ripe black briary berry that mingle with nuances of spice and earthy tones. It’s medium to full bodied, extremely well balanced and delivers a tantalizing and delicious fruit forward and lengthy finish (VH)

Vintages Release: December 2009

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendocino, Lake and Napa Counties, California $25.95 (25080)
Aromas of chocolate, dark ripe berry and herbaceous notes float from the glass of this medium-bodied red. It was aged 12 months in small oak barrels, 25% new French. Nicely textured, the flavours are an amalgam of briary berry, dark chocolate, and vegetal characteristics that appear on the lengthy finish. This pairs well with medium-rare grilled rib eye. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, New Zealand $15.95 (619452)
This is a delightful mouthful of zippy and refreshing Sauv Blanc. The citrus and herbaceous aromas cascade from the glass while the flavours follow suit with lemon zest and gooseberry on the mid palate and a zesty lime bite on the clean finish. Pair this with lightly breaded calamari, flash fried and drenched with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Nobilo ‘Regional Collection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, New Zealand $15.95 (554444)
This is quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from a top notch producer. It delivers an over-abundance of aromas and flavours. Grassy, lemony and sharp on the nose, it explodes on the palate in a gorgeous array of flavours with a salad bowl of tropical fruit, pink grapefruit and passion fruit to the fore. It’s deftly balanced, generously textured and finishes flavourful and full of zest. Absolutely delightful on its own, it also pairs well with pan-seared scallops and prawns under a squish of fresh lemon. (VH)

Consignment Wines

Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $50.00 200 mL
Expressive and pristine, this delivers a finely tuned mouthful of sweet, ripe and unctuous fruit flavours that glide along and are deftly balanced by a laser-like spine of acidity. Aromas of ripe yellow peach, citrus zest and hints of ginger burst from the glass. The palate is treated to a well sculpted gusher of sweet ripe tree fruit flavours—nectarine and apple, followed by tropical fruit with mango and ripe pineapple to the fore. It’s another triumph for Pillitteri to be enjoyed as, not with, dessert. Order direct from Pillitteri. (VH)


Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine ‘Sticky Beak’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $50.00 200 mL
Alluring and seductive aromas—cherry clafoutis, ganache and spice—segue complex, rich and succulent flavours of blood orange, ripe raspberry and sweet black plum. This aphrodisiac-like red blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 24% Shiraz, 4% Sangiovese captures the spirit as well as the palate. It’s perfectly balanced, generously textured and delivers a lingering warm finish that layers on dark briary berry flavour. Romantically released for Valentine’s Day, order direct from Pillitteri. (VH)


Seifried Riesling 2007
Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95
This wine opens with a superbly concentrated nose of lime, lime blossom and minerality. The mineral aromas border on the petrol side, a character more often seen in aged Rieslings. It’s just ever so slightly off-dry with peach flavours appearing on the palate. A medium body combines with lively acidity to create great balance, and the lime and peach flavours linger long into the finish. Excellent effort. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)


Bodegas Martinez Serantes ‘Alba Rosa’ Albariño 2007
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $22.95
A very intriguing nose features tropical (banana) fruits with buttery nuances, sweet baking spices and fresh grass. There’s no oak treatment, however, and the palate is very refreshing and medium in body, boasting excellent balance. Citrus flavours make an appearance on the lengthy finish. The wine of choice in Spain for most manner of shellfish; my first pick would be soft shell crab. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)


Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Clos de Sixte’ Lirac 2005
AOC Lirac, France $26.50
A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, this wine over-delivers on aromatics. Copious red and dark fruits combine with menthol, white pepper, smokiness and tobacco complexity. The tannins are deceivingly firm as they’re very ripe, giving a velvety mouth feel to this full-bodied wine. The finish is long, dark and brooding although there’s plenty of fruit to tame the tannins. I’d anticipate it really hitting its stride in about three more years. Delicious. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)


Berton Reserve Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $18.95
For a Barossa Shiraz, this wine has a lot of finesse. It’s not a fruit bomb, showcasing pepper and smoke on the nose along with black plum and milk chocolate aromas. Structure is provided by very fine, persistent tannins and soft acidity. The 14.5% alcohol doesn’t appear to overwhelm and the result is good balance and length. It’ll be an obviously good choice for pepper steak or rack of lamb, but it’s also reserved enough to suit strong, firm cheeses. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)


Tenuta Rocca ‘Vigna Roca Nerra’ Barbera d’Alba 2004
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $36.50
A lot of wines from this region of Italy are quite light, and designed as simple quaffers. That is not the case at all with this wine, as there’s a lot going on. Aromas include black cherry with licorice, leafy and herbal notes, even a subtle floral edge. Refreshing acidity and very soft tannins combine with a full body to provide good balance, and the finish is long and zesty. Gourmet thin-crust pizza, pasta with truffles, or good old-fashioned hard cheese would all suit. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)

Cheers, Mark, Lindsay and Vic

 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar