January 17, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on Wines from Argentina. As a winecurrent subscriber, you’ve been hearing about the emergence of Argentina wines for some time, and the beat goes on—the LCBO has increased awareness and provided a wider selection of good-value wines, Bravo!. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Mark Tandan is welcomed back as a winecurrent taster and reviewer. He and Lindsay Groves provide the reviews and ratings for this release—you’ll find a number of excellent wines that follow.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• It’s the time of year for Port, with or without a storm, and there are three reviewed.
• Lindsay and Mark highlight many exceptional wines in the Italy & Spain sections

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Argentina Feature

St. Lucas Malbec 2007
Maipú, Mendoza $14.95 (093930)
This relatively simple Malbec is very approachable and easy drinking. It offers candied plum and spice notes on the nose, with a very soft structure in the mouth. Refreshing acidity and plenty of weight make it feel juicy, and although the finish isn’t very long, it’s still quite pleasant. It’ll make a solid quaffing wine for relaxing by the fire on a cold night. (MT)


Salentein ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.95 (640854)
Constructed in the shape of a cross, the winery utilizes gravity transfer systems and is equipped with barrel ageing facilities on the lower level. A deep ruby-purple in colour, this plummy Malbec was aged 14 months in French oak and left unfined. Medium bodied and pronounced on the palate with supple black fruit, it goes down easily with fresh acidity and smooth tannins It sports 14.5% alcohol. Have a sip of this while eating some tasty baby back ribs with BBQ sauce. (LG)


Clos Des Andes 2005
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $29.95 (002014)
Bodega Poesia was founded by Hélène Garcin-Lévêque and Patrice Lévêque – also owners of several properties in Bordeaux. This 100% Malbec spent 10 months in French oak and has intensely juicy black fruit aromas on the nose, with blueberry, blackberry and floral notes. Dry and medium to full bodied, the tannins are smooth giving it a slick texture followed up by a medium-long finish. Concentrated black fruit flavours and 14% alcohol fill out the palate. If you don’t have time for a fancy food pairing, try some teriyaki burgers with grilled vegetables. (LG)


Chakana Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $16.95 (093807)
As advertised, this wine is a great benchmark for a well-styled ‘new world’ Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe fruit aromas include cassis and black berry, with subtle oak and a touch of violet. Ripe, yet firm and coating tannins provide structure. Although a little young, this full-bodied wine shows great promise with a long finish that showcases plenty of fruit. It could be enjoyed tonight with very rare steak, but I’d suggest holding it for two to three years to allow those tannins to settle. At this price it’s certainly worth picking up a few to add to your collection. (MT)


Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $19.95 (985002)
The Catena series of wines from Bodega Catena Zapata are blends of single varietal lots from the family’s estate vineyards. With its deep ruby-purple hue, this Cab is chockfull of black fruit with pepper, herbal and mineral undertones. Dry and full bodied, there’s a fresh streak of acidity, moderate tannins, 13.5% alcohol and a medium-long finish. Try it with steak in a balsamic BBQ sauce. (LG)


Chakana Bonarda 2007
Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Surprisingly, the Bonarda grape flies under the radar screen of most wine lovers in spite of being widely planted in Argentina. The nose on this is quite aromatic with spiced berry fruit and hints of licorice while the palate is treated to a persistent wave of rich spicy flavour with black currant, kirsch liqueur and bramble berry to the fore. It’s medium bodied and delivers a lingering finish of fruit and black licorice flavours plus a lovely hint of espresso roast. Great value, pick up a cartful and drink now to 2014. (VH)


J & F Lurton ‘Flor De Torrontés’ 2007
Uco Valley, Mendoza $13.95 (055475)
Torrontés is one of Argentina’s few indigenous varieties and is characterized by pronounced aromatics, something like those of the Muscat grape. However, on the downside it can sometimes be overly-alcoholic and bitter, but not this one. Pale straw in colour, there are lovely delicate notes of green flowers, citrus, mineral, herbs and lemon. Dry and pronounced on the palate, it’s medium bodied with 13% alcohol, racy acidity and a clean finish. (LG)

Fortified Wine

Sherry

Sandeman Armada Rich Cream Oloroso Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $18.95 (962126)
Having previously admitted a bias for dessert style sherries, there’s good reason—the ratio of quality to price is just so high. This wine has intense aromas of caramel and toffee, backed up with dried nuts, raisins and dates. The first impression is ‘crème brulée in a glass’. The palate is sweet but not cloying, with plenty of warmth and good length. It’ll be a pleasant surprise if you have not yet enjoyed a well-made dessert sherry. (MT)

Port

Barão De Vilar ‘Colheita Port’ 1998
Portugal $31.95 (087510)
Colheita is the Portugese word for ‘harvest’ and refers to a port from a single vintage. Colheita Ports must also be aged a minimum of seven years in wood before being bottled. Bottled in 2008, this nicely layered example has notes of nuts, raisin, prune, dried cherry and coffee. Medium-deep garnet-russet in colour, it’s full bodied with medium acidity, 20% alcohol and unassuming tannins. Serve on its own, or with a delicious dessert of sticky toffee pudding. (LG)


Cockburn’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
Portugal, Btld. 2008 $16.95 (088278)
Late Bottled Vintage Ports (LBVs) often have similar character to vintage ports, but with much less price and hassle. They’re aged prior to release, so unlike vintage ports, the fierce tannins have settled and there’s no need to decant to remove sediment. Fig and raisin aromas practically explode out of the glass while a soothing note of menthol glides underneath. It’s certainly sweet and full bodied with a brandy-like warmth that lingers pleasantly. Tremendous value. (MT)


Croft ‘Quinta Da Roeda’ Vintage Port 2005
Portugal $58.95 (650556)
Quinta Da Roeda is produced from Croft’s estate vineyard, only in good years. According to the winery, this single estate vintage port will mature more quickly than the main classic vintages and will be at its peak somewhere between 10 to 15 years of age. Muscular and concentrated, this particular one was bottled in 2007. Sweet and full bodied, it has 20% alcohol with balanced acidity, firm structured tannins and intense black fruit flavours. With its good core of fruit and well-built frame, it will indeed stand up nicely for a long time to come. (LG)

Sparkling Wine

France

Bailly-Lapierre ‘Crémant De Bourgogne’ Chardonnay 2005
AOC, Burgundy, France $21.95 (680686)
Founded in 1972, Caves Bailly-Lapierre makes use of approximately 4 hectares of subterranean galleries quarried out of Kimmeridgian limestone to cellar their wines. Made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, this well-priced sparkler shows class with its enticing bread dough, citrus, floral, apple and pear aromas. Dry and medium bodied, the palate is nice and fresh with steely acidity, a creamy mousse, 12% alcohol and underlying orange peel flavours. Start your evening off right with a flute of this lovely crémant and a chilled shrimp cocktail. (LG)

The Main Release

Ontario: Red Wine

Angels Gate Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (090779)
Winemaker Philip Dowell states his philosophy—a balanced vine and a balanced wine—is about bringing together terroir, élévage and typicity of wine. Medium garnet-brick in colour, there are delicate notes of earth, cherry, rose-floral and red currant. Dry and medium bodied, there’s bright structured acidity, medium tannins and 12.5% alcohol. Sweet soy-glazed salmon would be a natural choice as a pairing for this Pinot. (LG)


Creekside ‘Laura Red’ 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (117960)
A blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot and 6% Malbec, there are a multitude of aromas on the nose including coffee, spice, pepper, sour cherries, cocoa and red currant. Medium to full bodied, it has velvety structured tannins, lively acidity and 12.3% alcohol. Although drinking nicely now this wine will manage just fine if left on its own for another few years. Pair it up with filet mignon, medium rare. (LG)

California: White Wine

Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Lake & Mendocino Counties $17.95 (086249)
This Sauvignon Blanc has an intriguing nose which combines tropical fruit character with plenty of herbal aromas and an undercurrent of smoky oak. Honeydew melon flavours relay in the mouth and fresh acidity provides excellent balance. With medium body and a long, lively finish, this wine will be very versatile at your table. Try it with sablefish in a tropical fruit salsa. Just be sure the fish is wild caught and politically correct, it’ll make a more satisfying match for this organic wine. (MT)


Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Mendocino County $18.95 (046334)
With a rather vinous nose of citrus and grass, this wine doesn’t get much more exciting on the palate. It’s light bodied with zesty acidity, 13.5% alcohol and a clean finish. Some wines need food to put them into perspective – try this wine with a fresh pasta salad with green onion and sweet peppers in a simple oil and vinegar dressing. (LG)

Chile: Red Wine

Baron Philippe De Rothschild ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2007
Rapel Valley $14.95 (037945)
Nowadays Carmenère is strongly associated with Chile, but it is one of the original Bordeaux varietals. Stalky green pepper notes abound on the nose, with peppercorn, cassis, blackberry, black cherry and spice. Dry and full bodied, the flavours on the palate are equally pronounced accompanied by moderate tannins, 14.5% alcohol and balanced acidity. Echo the character of this wine by pairing it with a juicy steak au poivre. (LG)


Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Syrah 2006
Maipo Valley $14.95 (034959)
Barrica Selection is a line of premium wines that are produced in small quantities from selected vineyards. Aromas of blueberry, mulberry, blackberry and cassis on the bouquet follow on to the medium to full bodied palate. The mild tannins give this wine a supple texture with some acidity for balance along with 14.5% alcohol. If you feel like heating things up, try a little Mexican flare with beef enchiladas and rice. (LG)

California: Red Wine

Liberty School Zinfandel 2006
California $17.95 (041095)
This producer consistently delivers solid wines at reasonable prices. Here we have excellent aromatic typicity for a California Zinfandel: jammy, sweet fruit aromas and plenty of them. Spread on toast, it’s strawberry jam in a glass. However, it’s very softly structured, and at 13.5% alcohol isn’t nearly as heavy as many other wines in this category. This wine could be enjoyed on its own, or with sweet glazed barbequed ribs—don’t try it on toast for breakfast, that’s just for professionals. (MT)


Robert Mondavi Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $34.95 (953562)
It’s said a great Merlot drinks more like a Cabernet Sauvignon and this wine proves that statement. Complex aromas involve dark currant and red plum fruit, with milk chocolate, tobacco and red licorice notes all appearing over time. Superb balance is created by big, ultra ripe tannins and it’s hard to sense the 14.5% alcohol because all the elements are in harmony. This is a finesse wine that exhibits deft touch in both the vineyard and winery. It would be the highlight of a meal of rare duck or rack of lamb. It’s a superb effort for the price, and it tastes like it should cost a lot more. (MT)

Australia: White Wine

Parri Estate Viognier/Chardonnay 2007
Southern Fleurie, South Australia $17.95 (017319)
Parri Estate is a family operation, established by Peter, Alice and John Phillips in 1998. ‘Parri’ is the word used by the indigenous Kaurna people to describe the rivers, creeks and gullies in the area. Light lemon in the glass, the pretty aromas of apricot, floral and apple linger alongside lifted aromatics that are courtesy of the Viognier. Dry and medium-plus bodied, the acidity provides a little structure, along with 13% alcohol and a lingering finish. Partner this aromatic white with a dish of halibut stuffed with apricot and rosemary. (LG)

Australia: Red Wine

Aramis Vineyards Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale $24.95 (041202)
Established in 1998 by Lee Flourentzou, the property currently has 63 acres under vine, most of which are planted with Shiraz. This Shiraz oozes black fruit, with notes of liquorice, pepper and herbs. Dry and full bodied, the tannins are pliable with juicy acidity and good intensity of flavours. For a low maintenance meal, match this plump Shiraz with mildly spiced chili. (LG)


McPherson ‘Basilisk’ Cabernet / Balzac 2005
Central Victoria $17.95 (077859)
Made from 95% Cab and 5% Balzac (a.k.a. Mourvèdre), this wine is named after a mythical creature that was a cross between a rooster and a serpent. Deep ruby-brick in colour, there’s enough eucalyptus in here to kill a koala. Dry and full bodied, there are pronounced notes of mint, floral and black fruit with 14.5% alcohol, crisp acidity and modest tannins. (LG)


Mitchell ‘Peppertree Vineyard’ Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $27.95 (057257)
This winery was established by Andrew and Jane Mitchell over 30 years ago and currently has 100 hectares of land under vine—they’re a winecurrent favourite. With its full body and 14.5% alcohol, this wine has a dense core of black fruit with blueberry, pepper, floral and eucalyptus notes. The tannins are friendly, with fresh acidity balancing it all out. Bacon-wrapped shrimp in a chipotle barbecue sauce would complement this wine nicely. (LG)


Parri Estate Shiraz/Viognier 2006
Southern Fleurie $18.95 (048488)
Here we have explosive aromas of ripe red fruit, kirsch, and a syrupy sweetness offset by a distinctive note of white pepper. Balance is provided solely by alcohol, as this warm climate wine has just moderate acidity and negligible tannic structure. It feels fuller bodied than the 13% alcohol suggests, and will make a nice wine to pour and enjoy when you just don’t feel like over-analyzing what’s in your glass. (MT)

New Zealand: White Wine

Fairhall Downs ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (990580)
This is a typical Kiwi Sauv Blanc with pepper, grass, melon, gooseberry and citrus aromas. Dry and light bodied, the fruit on the palate is nicely concentrated and intertwined with zesty acidity and 13.5% alcohol and drawing to a close with a peachy finish. With its fresh, green character, this pleasant drop would pair well with red snapper baked with lemon, parsley, thyme and white wine. (LG)

South Africa: Red Wine

Bergwater Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2005
WO Prince Albert Valley $16.95 (079475)
Prince Albert Valley received its official status as a ‘Wine of Origin’ ward in 2002 and is located within the Western Cape. Bergwater Farms is comprised of three properties totaling 1500 hectares, 70 of which are planted with vines. The rest of the property is utilized as a nature reserve. Made in a very clean and modern style, there are jammy notes of plum, strawberry and a touch of pepper on the nose. Dry and full bodied, there is an approachable tannin structure accompanied by fresh acidity and a healthy 15% alcohol. Tuna steaks marinated in soy, garlic and black pepper is a tasty and healthy food pairing option. (LG)


Bradgate Syrah 2005
WO Stellenbosch $13.95 (080176)
South African wines can be distinctive in aroma, and there’s no confusing the origin of this red—smokiness is the dominant scent combined with ripe red and dark currant. It’s softly structured and full bodied, with a pleasantly fruity finish. At this price it’ll make a great value quaffer, alone or with mild cheese. (MT)


Môreson Pinotage 2006
WO Coastal Region $19.95 (009241)
After crushing, the grapes were treated to a 3-day cold soak in open fermenters. After pressing, the fermentation continued in stainless steel before being transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation. The wine was then matured in 100% French oak (80% new) for 16 months. There are sweet smoked meat, bacon, cedar and black fruit notes on the nose that translate onto the palate. Dry and full bodied, there’s good tannin structure along with crisp acidity, 14.5% alcohol and a meaty, grippy finish. A perfect wine to go with barbecued ribs. (LG)

Austria: White Wine

Laurenz Und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner 2007
Niederösterreich $18.95 (087627)
Floral aromas are dominant here, giving the taster an initial impression that they might be trying a Viognier. Then more typical Grüner aromas appear with pink grapefruit and apricot fruits followed by a chalky minerality and a touch of fresh grass. Although it carries refreshing acidity, the wine somehow exhibits a dense creaminess in the mouth. It’s light bodied and delivers a fresh citrus finish. If you haven’t tried Austria’s great white hope, I’d suggest starting here because this is a great example. This is another very versatile food wine, equally at home with lighter seafood or poultry in a dill cream sauce. (MT)

France: White Wine

Château Brondelle Classic Blanc 2007
AOC Graves $18.95 (626507)
Many of us think of red wines when we think Bordeaux, but whites from this region are certainly worth trying and rather under-appreciated in North America. They’re blends of mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon and often represent excellent value in dry white wines. This version has classic Sauvignon Blanc aromatics of citrus fruits and fresh herbs, combined with subtle honey and hay notes contributed by the Semillon. It’s light bodied and crisp, and although a touch tart on the palate it follows through with a long and lively finish Pair it with crispy seared trout drizzled with fresh lime. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château De Bel-Air 2005
AOC Lalande De Pomerol $27.95 (061754)
Made with the fruit of 35 year-old vines, this is a blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. With its deep ruby brick colour, the nose shows aromas of cherry, fruit preserves, leather and light spice. Firmly structured and full bodied, it has balanced acidity and 13% alcohol. Definitely approachable now, it will also hold on for a couple more years. (LG)


Château Haut Breton Larigaudière 2001
AOC Margaux $39.95 (091439)
Located in the commune of Soussans (one of five communes entitled to use the Margaux AOC), this Château is classified as a ‘Cru Bourgeois’. Full bodied and silky, this Margaux flaunts cherry, cassis, vanilla and sweet floral aromas. The structure is still present with medium acidity, 12.5% alcohol and a light red fruit finish. Having company? Beef medallions with a cognac sauce would work well with this refined and stylish Bordeaux. (LG)


Château Saint-André Corbin 2006
AOC St-Georges St-Émilion $27.95 (043810)
Vignoble Jean-Bernard Saby & Fils is in possession of 20 hectares of vines located on argilo-calcaire soil. The vineyard is planted with predominantly Merlot with a lesser proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak. This lovely Saint-Emilion shows cherry, liquorice, black fruit and cassis aromas. Dry and full bodied, it’s got velvety textured tannins along with bright acidity, 13% alcohol and cocoa and smoke notes on the palate. (LG)

Burgundy

Domaine Latour-Giraud Maranges ‘La Fussière’ 2005
AOC Maranges Premier Cru $29.95 (086967)
Impressively, this producer also owns the largest parcel of 1er cru ‘Genevrieres’. Since the 1990’s they have introduced modern equipment such as pneumatic presses, temperature controlled tanks, new crusher-destemmers and started a new barrel program in order to up their game This unfined and unfiltered Premier Cru is medium-plus bodied, ruby-brick in colour with earthy, strawberry, raspberry, cassis, game and leather aromas. The fine tannins provide the structure on the medium bodied palate, with medium acidity and 13.5% alcohol. Hearty shepherd’s pie with truffled mash potatoes would be a nice accompaniment. (LG)


Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure 2006
AOC Beaune $34.95 (091082)
The nose on this Burgundy is very pretty, with beetroot, sour and red cherry fruit, sweet spice and a subtle earthiness underneath. Medium acidity and firm tannins provide aggressive structure which somewhat contradicts the impression given by the aromas, but this wine just needs some time. It’s medium in body and you might hold on to it for two to three years before enjoying with rare duck breast with a wild mushroom glaze. (MT)


Domaine Taupenot-Merme 2005
AOC Saint-Romain $38.95 (087007)
This offering has attractive aromatic balance between earthiness and fruit. There’s good old-fashioned dirt on the nose with black cherry fruit and cinnamon spice, along with noticeable oak notes. Acid and tannin play equal roles in providing structure, with neither dominating the fruit. It’s well balanced with flavours lingering nicely and could be enjoyed today with wild venison stew or coq au vin. (MT)


Domaine Vincent Sauvestre ‘Clos Des Rouards’ 2006
AOC Beaune $32.95 (084525)
With vineyard holdings that spread from Chablis to Mersault, this Domaine also owns property in the Rhône Valley. With its pale brick-garnet hue, there are aromas of berries, strawberry, earth and red currant. Light to medium bodied, the tannins are moderately structured with medium acidity, 13% alcohol and a supple texture. Burgundy pairs well with fowl, try a duck terrine or baked quail with mushrooms. (LG)

Midi

Château de Treviac 2007
AOC Corbières $16.95 (670505)
Very ripe dark fruits give the initial aromatic impression then pepper and rosemary notes appear. This wine is the result of a very warm year and the alcohol is evident on both the nose and palate. Big, yet smooth, ripe tannins provide great balance on this full-bodied style while the dark fruits relay nicely on the lengthy finish. Pair it with grilled bison marinated in red wine and dried herbs, but it will also be a good candidate for cellaring over the next three years. At this price, buy enough to enjoy both today and in the future. (MT)

Rhône

Cave de Tain Saint-Joseph Esprit de Granit 2005
AOC Saint-Joseph $29.95 (017152)
Wines from France’s northern Rhône make such a nice contrast to New World examples made from the same grape (Shiraz or Syrah). Of course there’s fruit, in this case dark plum and blackberry, but also the added complexity of new leather, smoked meat and black licorice nuances. The contrast continues on the palate, with firmer structure than many New World examples. It’s medium bodied and long in finish, and could use a few years before it really hits its stride. Wait four to five years and enjoy with rosemary-crusted rack of lamb. (MT)


Domaine De La Croze Granier ‘Cuvée Réserve’ 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (736371)
This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Black jammy fruits make an appearance on the bouquet as well as the palate, with juicy blackberry, mulberry and cassis. Medium-plus bodied, there are velvety tannins, good acidity and 13.5% alcohol. Drink this with a bowl of minestrone to warm up on a cold winter day. (LG)


Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2006
AOC Vinsobres $18.95 (566844)
This very impressive offering features ripe red plum and cherry fruits alongside dried prunes. It’s slightly warm on the nose with black pepper and sweet oak notes present. The overall impression is of a New World wine until one gets to the palate, where firm tannins provide solid structure. It’s a full-bodied style that really needs a couple of years to settle down, but when it does it will be exceptional, especially served with any manner of grilled red meats. It offers exceptional value for your wine-buying dollar and earned its final half star on price. (MT)

Germany: White Wine

Rheingau

Bernhard Mehrlein Riesling ‘Feinherb’ Kabinett 2007
QmP, Johannisberger Erntebringer, Rheingau $17.95 (089581)
This delicate wine from the Rheingau is off-dry with clean, floral, citrus and apple notes. Low in alcohol with balanced acidity, this is the perfect sipping wine as an aperatif or would match nicely with an appetizer salad of California greens with strawberries and Champagne vinaigrette. (LG)

Italy: White Wine

Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio 2007
DOC Trentino $16.95 (051623)
No need to look any further if you’re after a pleasing dry white that will be versatile as a sipper at your next gathering. Green apple and herbal notes form the aromas while in the mouth it’s light bodied, refreshingly clean and easy to drink. Pour it as an aperitif or with a selection of tapas. (MT)


Patrizi Moscato d’Asti 2007
DOCG $14.95 (101766)
This is a wonderful unique style of slightly bubbly, medium-sweet wine from Italy’s Piedmont region. It’s explosively aromatic with orange blossom and honey alongside peach, tangerine and grape characteristics. In the mouth it has pleasing effervescence and a champagne-like creaminess and solid length. All of this on a feather-weight frame of just 5.5% alcohol! There’s no need to make mimosas to serve with brunch. Pour this, it makes a wonderful companion to quiche and omelettes. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Emilia-Romagna

La Stoppa Gutturnio 2006
DOC Colli Piacentini $19.95 (102822)
Produced by Elena Pantaleoni, this wine is a blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda with interesting and complex aromas of cherry, cassis, earth, spice, root vegetables and sweaty horse. Dry and medium-plus bodied, there is structured acidity, mild tannins, 13.5% alcohol and a slightly nutty finish. This would be good paired with lamb kebabs with roasted potato. (LG)

Piedmont

Cantina Terre Del Barolo ‘Vinum Vitae Est’ Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo $29.95 (101246)
Planted on clayey-calcareous soil, the grapes undergo a slow fermentation and spend around 30 days on the skins followed by 3 years of ageing – 2 years in Slavonian oak casks followed by another year in bottle. Prune, sour cherry, earth, red currant and tobacco are all found on the bouquet of this pretty Barolo with its medium-bodied palate and 14% alcohol. Dry and tightly structured, the tannins are fine-grained with bright acidity and a fresh finish. Put this graceful drop next to short ribs with a mushroom risotto. (LG)

Puglia

Tenuta Coppadoro ‘Cotinone’ 2005
IGT Daunia $19.95 (086280)
The ‘Cotinone’ is a blend of Aglianico, Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon. With its full body and velvety tannins, there’s a good core of black fruit flavours with notes of smoke, earth, herbs, pepper and liquorice. Deep inky ruby-brick in colour, the acidity is fresh with 13% alcohol and good length on the finish. Great value considering it comes in under $20. (LG)

Tuscany

Banfi ‘Centine’ 2006
IGT Toscana $10.95 (980649) 375mL
Castello Banfi produces a long list of wines from their collection of vineyards and varied terroirs. Centine is a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, it’s medium-deep brick in colour with aromas of cherry, blackberry, cassis, earth and raisin. Dry and full bodied, the palate is fresh and upbeat with moderate tannins and 14% alcohol. (LG)


Burchino Chianti Superiore 2004
DOCG Chianti Superiore $15.95 (068635)
Owned by the Castellani family, the Burchino estate is situated in the medieval village of Terricciola in the Pisane hills. This Chianti is mostly Sangiovese with small amounts of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo and is aged for over a year in traditional Slavonian oak casks. Made in a very new-world style, the nose shows vanilla, plum, cedar and a touch of smoke. Dry and medium bodied with 12.5% alcohol, the crisp acidity and velvety tannins make this wine an ideal partner for simple pasta in tomato sauce. (LG)


Castiglioni Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese 2006
IGT Toscana $23.95 (974394)
With black fruit, mint and pepper notes, this blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Sangiovese is medium to full bodied with soft tannins, 13.5% alcohol and fresh acidity. Fruit-driven and friendly, this is the perfect wine for drinking tonight. This approachable IGT would be a great complement to a rustic pasta dish, try pappardelle with boar/game meat. (LG)


Prunatelli Chianti Rufina ‘Riserva’ 2005
DOCG Chianti Rufina Riserva $19.95 (938258)
With a medium body and an easy-going disposition, the palate is juicy with earthy, floral, liquorice, cherry and cassis flavours. A reasonable 12.5% alcohol and fresh acidity are followed by a meaty, nutty finish. Because of their acidity and rustic earthiness, Chiantis are extremely versatile food wines. This one in particular would be great with a straightforward penne a la carbonara. (LG)


Sassicaia 2005
DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia $184.95 (480533)
Here’s a quintessential Super Tuscan: it uses international varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in this case—delivers exceptional quality and has a price tag to match. The nose is very complex, opening with roasted espresso before layers of tobacco leaf, violet, cassis and truffles appear, go away, then appear again. A pleasant smokiness weaves underneath all the aromas. The tannins are big, but incredibly ripe with no bitterness. Dark fruits reappear on the long, brooding tannic finish. It should become remarkably well balanced in about five years continuing to drink well into 2020. If you didn’t lose your portfolio to Bernie Madoff, consider picking up more than one. (MT)

Portugal: Red Wine

Mural Tinto 2005
DOC Douro $14.95 (586636)
This wine is made from some of the premium grapes used in Port production, as are many similar well-made and well-priced table reds from Portugal. Syrupy red fruit and candied red berry aromas are at the forefront, with a nice touch of milk chocolate rounding out the nose. It’s very soft in structure with the balance created by alcohol and a medium body. This has a pleasant mid-length finish. It makes a great sipper on its own, or could be paired with firm, mild cheese. Good value. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

Abadia Da Cova Mencia 2007
DO Ribeira Sacra $19.95 (103549)
Mencia is a Spanish varietal that traditionally produced pale, light, early-quaffing reds. With the rediscovery of plots of old, low-yielding vines, this grape has started to prove that it can indeed produce wines with depth and complexity. This approachable red shows vanilla, cassis, blackberry and animal notes on the nose. Dry and pronounced on the palate, it’s medium-plus bodied with 13% alcohol, balanced acidity and pliable tannins. Partner it up with shrimp pil-pil with tomato and garlic rice. (LG)


Coto De Hayas Garnacha ‘Centenaria’ 2007
DO Campo De Borja $24.95 (094805)
From Bodegas Aragonesas, this Grenache is deep purple in colour with blackberry, blueberry and cassis nuances. Pronounced on the palate, it’s medium to full bodied with medium tannins, fresh acidity and a dense core of black fruit. A very versatile food wine, a glass of this would be great with honey-curried roasted chicken and vegetables. (LG)


R. López De Heredia ‘Viña Cubillo Crianza’ 2002
DOCG Rioja $26.95 (692780)
This wine from the 2002 vintage is showing a little age with its medium-deep garnet hue. A blend of Tempranillo, Grenache, Viura, Mazuelo and Graciano, it’s aged 3 years in barrel and another 2 years in bottle prior to release. With dried fruit aromas of raisin and prune along with cherry, tobacco and old leather notes, it’s medium to full bodied with a meaty texture. The tannins are mild and velvety, still holding together medium intensity aromas on the palate, with 12.5% alcohol and a nutty finish. (LG)


Rioja Bordón Crianza 2004
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (103531)
From Bodegas Franco-Españolas, this medium-garnet charmer shows complex aromas of nuts, pepper, cassis, sour cherry, prune, raisin and earth. Dry and medium-plus bodied with 13% alcohol, the tannins have mellowed out and are nicely balanced by a burst of fresh acidity. This is a great option to go along with Spanish tapas, including cheeses and cured meats. (LG)

New in the LCBO

Ontario

Strewn ‘Select Late Harvest’ Vidal 1999
VQA Ontario $15.95 (107219) 375mL
A glorious golden yellow in the glass, this provides an interesting and enjoyable imbibing experience—it’s ten year’s old, approaching ice wine in pedigree, at only a fraction the price. There are lovely aromas of caramelized sugar, pineapple, crème brulee and baked apple. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely balanced and offers warm sweet flavours (12.5% alcohol) of burnt sugar and fig with a distinctive lemon zest bite on the finish. This pairs extremely well with upside-down pineapple cake or spiced-apple desserts. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Konzelmann Estate Winery ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 (200550)
Lifted aromas of spice-laden lychee and tropical fruit burst from the glass of this medium-bodied and generously textured beauty. The flavours are a delicate cornucopia of fully ripened fruit—nectarine, pear, apricot and yellow peach. The finish is a gloriously well-balanced lengthy experience with the natural sweetness of the fruit balanced deftly with moderating acidity. There’s a hint of lime on the finish, as well. Lovely on its own, it also pairs perfectly with spicy Asian cuisine. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

Cheers, Lindsay and Mark

 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar