January 10, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with the ‘Wine of the Month’ and a ‘Smart Buys’ feature. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure. As well, upcoming Vintages Releases, wines available in the LCBO General List section and Ontario wineries follow.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Lindsay Groves handled this release on her own and found good value wines throughout!
• You may find these wines on LCBO store shelves now, before the release date.
• Na zdorovia! winecurrent gets into the spirit. Read more...
• Find 4 and 4½ star wines for under $20 and much less after the Main Release—from Upstream to Consignment wines.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Wine of the Month

Terranoble ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Colchagua Valley, Chile $18.95 (046268)
Viñedos Terranoble was founded in the Maule Valley in 1993, harvesting their first vintage in 1994. In 2003, they purchased an additional 30 hectares in the Colchagua Valley, 140 km south of Santiago. With a yummy bouquet of coffee beans, blackberry, cassis and spice, this wine is medium to full bodied with bright acidity, approachable tannins and 14% alcohol. It shows lovely depth of fruit and intensity on the palate all coming together in a solid finish. Great now, but will last another couple years. (LG)

Smart Buys

Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon/ Carmenère 2007
Colchagua Valley, Apalta Vineyard, Chile $14.95 (016071)
This is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Carmenère. It offers an enticing nose of sweet black fruit—blackberries, cassis, raspberry, cherry with vanilla and pepper. On the palate it’s full figured with medium tannins, a nice underpinning acidity, 14.5% alcohol and great length on the finish. There’s integrated oak that helps hold all that fruit together nicely. (LG)


Groot Eiland Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Breedekloof, South Africa $13.95 (080168)
This is a wine that will not appeal to everyone, with very in-your-face smoky, meaty and spicy aromas. It’s very pronounced on the palate as well; a little like chewing on beef jerky. Full bodied and intense, there are firm tannins, medium acidity, 14.5% alcohol and red and black fruit aromas that appear more as after-thoughts rather than balanced complements. Natural food pairings? Anything barbequed. (LG)


Château Larroque 2005
AOC Bordeaux, France $17.95 (092536)
With a deep ruby-purple colour, this Bordeaux AOC shows almost carbonic-like aromas of raspberry, cherry, cassis and gobs of fresh black berries on the nose. It’s dry and medium bodied with crisp acidity, moderate tannins and 13% alcohol. Don’t have the time to cook something fancy? No problem, this would work well with plain old spaghetti and meat balls. (LG)


Illuminati Riparosso 2006
DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy $14.95 (328997)
The moniker ‘Illuminati’ refers to a number of groups both real and imaginary in the past and present-day. Originally the term referred to an enlightenment-era Bavarian group founded in 1776. Nowadays, there are numerous conspiracy theories proposing that world events/governments/corporations are being controlled and manipulated by a secret society calling itself the Illuminati. Perhaps a glass of this wine will help to calm the paranoia? There’s luscious black fruit, plum and fig on the nose of this deep ruby-purple-hued wine. A nice current of fresh acidity runs through the full-bodied palate with smooth tannins and 13.5% alcohol. (LG)


Albada ‘Viñas Viejas’ Garnacha 2005
DO Calatayud, Spain $15.95 (93005)
Here’s a well-structured aromatic, warm (14.5% alcohol) and friendly red that’s well suited to easy drinking and everyday food matches—chicken, beef or spicy vegetarian. From gnarled old bush vines—fifty to one hundred years old—it was aged eight months in new American oak. Cloves, balsamic, dark berry fruit and creosote on the nose, the flavours that bathe the palate include crushed dried dark berry, racy red currant and mulberry. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and finishes with a distinctive piquant spice and dark cherry flavour. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

Lustau ‘Solera Reserva’ Dry Amontillado ‘Los Arcos’ Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $17.95 (671115)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Think of yourself as a wine lover? This is a must buy and try. It beguiles the eye with an amber-green hue then caresses the palate with nutty nuances that mingle perfectly with the toffee and caramel aromatics. This scintillating gem is medium in texture and long on a perfectly balanced finish that offers a magical sweet/dry tang. Serve chilled as an aperitif. It is also a versatile food match; pour alongside consommé or rabbit stew. (VH)


Croft Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
Portugal, Btld. 2008 $18.95 (087601)
Certainly no wallflower, this LBV shows off with fleshy cherry, stewed black fruit, cassis, mulberry and liquorice aromas. Nice and soft in the mouth, it’s full bodied and sweet with a breeze of acidity and smoothly polished tannins. With 20% alcohol and a nice warm finish it will keep you cozy through the cold winter nights. (LG)



Cruz Vintage Port 1989
Portugal, Btld. 1992 $36.95 (087486)
There are lots of lovely spice, clove, walnut, red fruit and light floral notes on the nose of this pretty Port. With a deep brick colour, it’s full bodied and sweet with moderate acidity, smooth fine tannins, 19.5% alcohol and a lingering finish. The two best partners for Port are cheese and chocolate, which covers both sweet and savoury cravings. (LG)

Canada: White Wine

Ontario

Konzelmann Reserve Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.20 (200527)
There are pretty floral, apple, pear and mineral notes on the nose of this Riesling that carry onto the palate. Off-dry and medium bodied, there’s fresh acidity to complement the sweetness resulting in a harmoniously balanced number that has food written all over it. Try it with an aromatic Thai curry with lime leaves and coriander. (LG)

Canada: Red Wine

Ontario

Konzelmann ‘Winemaster’s Collection, Barrel Aged’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.20 (085118)
A combination of Nevers and Allier French oak is used in the maturation of this elegant Shiraz, resulting in a rounded and nicely balanced wine. Ripe black fruit on the nose is followed by a medium- to full-bodied palate with smooth tannins, juicy acidity, 12% alcohol and notes of blueberry, blackberry, cassis, cherry and mild pepper. This wine would be delicious with a simple penne arrabbiata. (LG)


Malivoire Gamay 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.00 (591313)
According to the winemaker’s notes, “a saignée, or bleeding of juice 24 hours after crushing, was done to concentrate the skin to juice ratio. After 4 days of cold soak, the fruit was fermented in four tonne lots with temperatures reaching 30ºC for 12 hours. After 18 days on the skins, the wine was gently pressed and sent to neutral barrels for malolactic fermentation and eight months of ageing. Bottled on January 24, 2008 under Stelvin® closure.” Medium ruby in colour, this one offers a gusher of up-beat cherry, red currant, earth and cedar aromas on the bouquet. Dry and medium bodied, lively acidity complements the soft tannins and supple red fruit flavours. (LG)

California: White Wine

Merryvale Chardonnay 2005
Carneros $47.95 (076026)
It’s easy to be charmed by this deep gold-coloured stunner. Starting off with aromas of toffee, mineral, double cream, apple, nuts and earth it’s hard to resist taking a sip. The infatuation continues with a curvy full-bodied palate and pronounced yet balanced flavours, 14.5% alcohol and tight acid structure. A beautiful wine that has what it takes to age gracefully. This is the perfect partner for almond trout. (LG)

California: Red Wine

Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Mourvèdre 2006
Contra Costa County $21.95 (066084)
This wine was aged in dark-toasted American oak for 10 months in 25% new barrels. With its deep ruby colour there are interesting notes of dried herbs, eucalyptus, earth, cherry, cassis, vanilla and bubblegum. Dry and pronounced, it’s medium to full bodied with a big 15% alcohol, juicy acidity, smooth tannins and loads of black fruit, sweet charred wood and vanilla flavours. The Cline website suggests that this Mourvèdre is “a perfect complement to rack of lamb, grilled pork tenderloin or dark chocolate”. Why not give all three a try? (LG)


Parducci Petite Sirah 2005
Mendocino County $14.95 (075598)
This winery can boast the first carbon-neutral operation in the United States. Part of the Mendocino Wine Company, Parducci is locally owned and operated and places emphasis on sustainable practices. One of the first wineries in Mendocino County to produce Petite Syrah, the grapes are sourced from 85% Mendocino County, 7% Lake County, 4% Lodi and 4% California and was aged in a combination of French and American oak. Spice and pepper abound on the nose, along with plush black fruit, cassis and black cherry. Medium to full bodied, it offers a nice, smooth texture, unassuming tannins, juicy acidity and 13.5% alcohol. (LG)

Mexico: Red Wine

L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2006
Guadalupe Valley, Baja California $10.95 (983742)
The Baja California region is one of seven states in Mexico where wines are being produced in viable quantities. 90% of Mexico’s quality wine is being produced in this region, which includes the sub-regions of Guadalupe, Calafia, San Vincente, and Santo Tomás Valleys. All these areas lie close to the Pacific where they profit from the cooling ocean breezes. Intense in both colour and aromas, this inky purple wine has pronounced notes of spice, pepper, tar and cassis. On the palate it continues along the same theme with a full-ish body, 14% alcohol, moderate acidity and heavy, concentrated flavours of prune, sweet liquorice, dried black fruits and tobacco. (LG)

Argentina: White Wine

Don Cristobal ‘1492’ Verdhello 2008
Los Campamentos, Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina $12.95 (81182)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A grape more commonly associated with Portugal (Madeira) or, possibly, Australia, winecurrent was told this is the only Verdhello wine from Argentina, pity. It’s very aromatic with lifted aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and citrus notes. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a bracing stream of lemon acidity that’s nicely supported by flavours of yellow plum and white peach. Pan-seared scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon would make this wine sing. (VH)

Chile: White Wine

William Fèvre ‘Chile Gran Cuvée’ Chardonnay 2007
Maipo Valley $18.95 (045146)
Enticing aromas of cedar, butterscotch, apple, pear, citrus and a touch of truffle on the bouquet are complemented by a full-bodied palate with equally pronounced flavours. Balanced acidity and 14.1% alcohol round out to a medium-long finish. Highly recommended, it’s a lovely wine for under $20. This would be nice with fettuccine alfredo with smoked salmon and fresh dill. (LG)

Chile: Red Wine

Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2007
Rapel Valley, Estate Btld. $16.95 (405712)
Founded by the Marnier Lapostolle family of France (behind the Grand Marnier brand) and the Rabat family of Chile in 1994, it is now completely under the Marnier-Lapostolle group. With a total of 350 hectares, the vines in their three different vineyards have been left ungrafted. Inky ruby in colour, this great Chilean Merlot is packed full of jammy, dark fruit, vanilla and peppery notes. Dry and pronounced with a full body, the tannins are velvety, there’s a fresh stream of acidity and it’s rounded out with a healthy 14.5% alcohol. A touch more pepper on the palate, it’s nice and ripe with good depth of flavour. (LG)


Viña Calina ‘Alcance’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maule Valley $19.95 (079533)
Owned by Kendall-Jackson, Viña Calina makes wine under three labels including Calina Reserva, Alcance and Bravura. The Alcance wines are single-site bottlings from Estate vineyards—in the case of this Cab, from the El Maitén vineyard in Maule. It contains 4% Merlot and was aged in 100% French oak, 25% new barrels. Deep juicy black fruits instantly draw you in on the nose of this Cab with herb, eucalyptus, pepper and macaroon flavours adding complexity on the palate. Dry and full bodied, there are some firm tannins and structured acidity on the palate with 14.5% alcohol. (LG)

Australia: White Wine

Jamiesons Run Chardonnay 2007
Limestone Coast, South Australia $17.95 (972430)
Owned by drink’s giant the Foster’s Group, Jamiesons Run is located in Coonawarra and makes wines from this region as well as the Limestone Coast region. Lifted tree fruit aromas on the nose give way to more tropical flavours on the palate. Dry and full bodied, there’s crisp acidity and nuances of lime, apple, peach, caramel, nuts and toast. A lighter fish such as mahi mahi would be a beautiful match, glazed with ginger on a bed of coconut rice. (LG)

Australia: Red Wine

Coriole Vineyards ‘Estate Grown’ Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (931600)
With 33 hectares of vines, Coriole Vineyards is located in the Seaview subregion of the McLaren Vale district. Established by the Lloyd family in 1967, some of the vines date all the way back to 1919. Lush would be the word to describe this ripe Aussie number packed full of jammy blueberry, blackberry, kirsch and raisin. With a silky texture the acidity is nice and juicy, with soft tannins and 14% alcohol. Try it with a healthy plate of spiced ratatouille. (LG)


De Bortoli ‘Gulf Station’ Pinot Noir 2007
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.95 (015511)
Medium brick-garnet in colour, a wide array of aromas can be found on the nose of this one, including smoke, earth, game, cherry, tobacco and pine nuts. Dry and medium bodied, it’s 12.5% alcohol with bright acidity and tart red fruits. It has good complexity and a nice fresh finish. Navarin is a traditional French stew made with lamb, herbs and root vegetables that would pleasantly match the earthy/smoky character of this wine. (LG)


Grant Burge ‘Barossa Vines’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa, South Australia $17.95 (738567)
After a one-week fermentation, this wine was aged for 14 months in a combination of French and American oak. Instantly likeable, sweet black fruit, plum, cassis, vanilla and eucalyptus are present on the first whiff. Dry and medium bodied, the soft tannins and juicy acidity make this wine extremely easy to sip, just beware of the well-hidden 14.5% alcohol. Stewed blueberries and plummy notes make this wine easy to pair with steaks cooked more towards the well-done side. (LG)


Marquee ‘Classic Artisan Wines’ GSM 2006
South Eastern Australia $18.95 (075010)
Medium garnet-brick in the glass, the mix of sour cherry, garrigue, clove, ginger and pepper notes will perk up your senses. Medium to full bodied, the bright acidity freshens up the palate, balancing out the more dried fruit aromas of prune, raisin and fig. Smooth tannins make this wine a pleasure to drink now, with 14.9% alcohol and notable complexity. For something a little out of the ordinary, try it with a Moroccan vegetable tagine with potato, carrots, aubergine and courgettes served over couscous. (LG)


Watershed Shiraz 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (073767)
Located south of Margaret River not far from Leeuwin Estate, Watershed has 177 hectares under vine, with red wine accounting for just under half of production. With their first vintage released in 2002, they recently made the decision to bottle all their wines under screw cap. It would be hard to find this wine boring with the plethora of aromas flaunted on the nose—vanilla, leather, red fruits, savoury herbs, spice and earthiness. Dry and medium to full bodied, the tannins are nice and velvety with medium acidity and 14.5% alcohol. (LG)

New Zealand: White Wine

Distant Land Gewürztraminer 2007
Gisborne, North Island $19.95 (075549)
Petar Fredatovich saved up money to buy land after moving to Auckland from Croatia. In 1937 he planted vines on his property and established the winery that was later handed down to his son, Peter, who has been recognized as one of the pioneers of the New Zeland wine industry, A very classic Gewürz with flirty notes of Turkish delight, roses, ripe apple, peach and flowers. Dry and pronounced, it’s medium to full bodied with moderate acidity, 14% alcohol and a fleshy, round texture. Why not mix it up a little by pairing it with a chilled crab salad with pineapple, cantaloupe, mango, lemon juice and fresh cilantro? (LG)


Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Gris 2008
Hawke’s Bay, North Island $15.95 (032292)
With a pale straw colour, the bouquet is soft and sweet with red apple, peach, grapefruit and floral aromas. Just off-dry and light bodied, there’s a healthy 14% alcohol, moderate acidity and a good core of fleshy tree fruit. Round and soft, this is a pretty and delicate wine with great versatility. Pair it with pork chops and gratin dauphinoise. (LG)

South Africa: White Wine

Boschendal ‘1685 Grande Cuvée’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Coastal Region $15.95 (091249)
With a French viticultural heritage dating back to 1685, Boschendal is one of the oldest producers in the new world. Very green and savoury in style, there’s no shortage of grass, green bell pepper, white peppercorn, sweet peas, citrus and unripe green apple aromas. It’s also intense on the palate, which is light bodied with zesty acidity, 13.5% alcohol and a clean finish. It’s definitely recommended that you drink this wine alongside a nosh, perhaps a fennel salad with fresh dill and goat’s cheese. (LG)

South Africa: Red Wine

Blue Cove ‘Winemaker’s Choice’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Western Cape $13.95 (088823)
The Blue Cove vineyards are located within the Robertson region where the average monthly temperature is 23 degrees C. The climate is also very much influenced by two mountain ranges—the Langeberg to the North and the Riviersonderend to the South—that both help to trap cool ocean air and channel moisture into the valley. There are pleasant notes of smoke, lead, plum and black fruit on the nose of this Cab that follow onto the palate. It’s medium to full bodied with bright acidity and moderate tannins along with 14.5% alcohol. In addition to the plum and berry fruit, a little pepper and faint cedar also makes an appearance on the palate. The price doesn’t get much better than this for a reasonable red. (LG)


De Heuvel Shiraz 2005
WO Tulbagh $16.95 (089680)
The Tulbagh district (within the Coastal Region) is the most northerly of the Cape Winelands and is surrounded on three sides by the Winterhoek Mountains. At present there are 16-odd wineries in this district and the potential of the area is only beginning to be realized. Deep ruby-purple in colour this Shiraz sports a typical South African nose of ripe red and black fruit, berries, cassis, plum, earth, smoke, pepper, spice, dust, cured meat and leather. Dry and medium to full bodied, there’s a good spine of acidity along with the smooth tannins and 14% alcohol. With herb roasted beef tenderloin in a red wine-shallot sauce this can’t help but be a hit. (LG)


Dornier ‘Donatus’ 2004
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (606020)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This red blend, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, was aged 18 months in new French oak. There are mixed spice, smoky oak and aromatic bitters aromas on the alluring nose. The flavours are expressive and concentrated with succulent dark cherry, cassis and hints of tar to the fore. It’s medium in weight and texture sporting ripe supple tannin and a lingering nicely balanced finish of sweet (14.5% alcohol) rich dark berry fruit flavours. (VH)


Bon Cap ‘The Ruins’ Syrah/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Eilandia Robertson $14.95 (018739)
A 60/40 blend of Syrah/Cab Sauv, this wine’s certified organic using, among other techniques, lucerne, a.k.a. alfalfa, as cover crop between the vines. With a deep ruby hue, there are meaty aromas of earth, spice, pepper, blackberry and smoke. Dry and medium to full bodied, there are approachable tannins, medium acidity and a medium long finish. If you’re looking to try something distinctively South African as a food pairing, make up some ‘bunny chow’, a tasty meal consisting of a loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with curry—lamb, chicken or bean—that’s said to have been developed by the Indian population in Durban. (LG)

France: White Wine

Burgundy

Domaine Patrick Miolane ‘La Canière’ 2006
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet $46.95 (091199)
Medium straw in colour, traditional aromas of apple, citrus, mineral and floral notes are present on the nose. Dry and medium bodied, there’s structured acidity, 13% alcohol and respectable length on the finish. This is very elegant with understated class. For an all-out decadent meal try this gorgeous drop with lobster thermidor. (LG)


Domaine Patrick Miolane Saint-Aubin 2005
AOC Saint-Aubin $29.95 (091215)
You’ll find this very ‘tropical’ on the nose with aromas of banana, papaya, pear, lemon and a touch of butter. Dry and medium bodied, it’s 13% alcohol with crisp acidity, round fruit flavours and a lingering finish. Give it a try with pineapple honey chicken. (LG)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château Bellevue 2005
AOC Fronsac $24.95 (045708)
With eight hectares planted exclusively with Merlot, this Château has introduced biodynamic practices, working with the limestone and sandstone rich soils to produce elegant and stylish wines. It’s easy to get carried away by the exotically perfumed nose on this claret with campfire smoke, cherry, cassis, spice, cedar and lead. Dry and full bodied, it’s fairly pronounced on the palate as well with firm tannins, 13.5% alcohol, medium acidity and good complexity and interest. A thought to make your mouth water—try it with Steak au Poivre with Dijon cream sauce. (LG)


Château l’Escart ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2001
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $22.95 (091363)
Located just outside the city of Bordeaux, the vineyards of Château l’Escart are situated on fine gravel clay-siliceous soil and are planted with 53% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. There are classic aromas on the nose of coffee bean, cocoa, spice, pepper, cherry, cassis, meat and roasted nuts. It’s full bodied in the mouth with nicely structured tannins, medium acidity and a long finish. A great balance between fruit and oak, this wine should continue to age nicely for another few years. (LG)

Loire

Cave dee Saumur ‘Réserve Des Vignerons’ 2005
AOC Saumur $15.95 (103879)
The Cave de Saumer was established in 1957 by a group of winegrowers who decided to combine their experience and expertise. Made from the Cabernet Franc grape, this lovely Saumur is very fruit forward and floral. Medium to full bodied on the palate it has supple tannins, fresh acidity and notes of spice and pepper intertwined with the black fruit flavours with 13.5% alcohol topping it off. Chicken Provençal would pair nicely with this attractively aromatic wine. (LG)

Midi

Château Roubia 2006
AOC Minervois $14.95 (705632)
One of the oldest wineries in Languedoc, the name and vineyards stem back to Roman times when they were part of the ‘Castrum Roubiano’. Deep ruby brick in colour, there are great cherry aromas, light juicy black fruit, milk chocolate and vanilla bean on the nose. Dry and medium bodied, the tannins are mellow and satiny, with a refreshing jolt of acidity providing structure. Cherry, red currant, game and leather flavours provide some interest on the palate along with 12.5% alcohol. The bright acidity and soft tannins in this drop make it the perfect food wine, try it with roasted Portobello mushrooms topped with olive tapenade sprinkled with goat’s cheese. (LG)

Rhône

Lavau Vacqueyras 2007
AOC Vacqueyras $20.95 (104927)
A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this is an unmistakably sexy wine. Luscious black fruit, raspberry, blueberry and spice on the nose trickles into a medium- to full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins, 13.5% alcohol, focused acidity and a finish that won’t disappoint. If you’re looking for a match, try this Rhône with a cassoulet with pork, sausage, beans and spices. (LG)

Germany: White wine

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Spätlese 2003
QmP Graacher Himmelreich $21.95 (082818)
The Thanisch family have a long history in viticulture and purchased the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard back in the 18th century. Legend has it the vineyard was named by Prince Boemund II of Trier who was supposedly cured of a serious illness after drinking wine made from its vines. With its medium-deep gold colour, the aromas are equally as golden with notes of nectarine, apple, candied citrus, floral, sweet herbs and mineral. Medium sweet on the palate, it’s light to medium bodied with a low 9% alcohol and crisp, balanced acidity. I could easily drink a glass of this over an Alsatian-style onion tart. (LG)

Pfalz

Anselmann Riesling Spätlese 2007
QmP Edesheimer Rosengarten $17.95 (087494)
The Anselmann family has been making wine for over 400 years. An invigorating bouquet including spring flowers, citrus, mineral, green apple, pear and sweet peas is boosted on the palate by steely acidity. This freshness is balanced by some residual sugar in the mouth and low 9.5% alcohol, resulting in a rounded, medium bodied wine. Off-dry Rieslings are great sippers but are also some of the most versatile food wines—particularly with Asian dishes or spicy foods. (LG)

Italy: Red Wine

Piedmont

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Maràia Barbera Monferrato’ 2006
DOC Barbera $18.95 (748277)
The cellars of Marchesi di Barolo are located near the village of Barolo overlooking the castle of the Marquis Falletti. Considered to be a medium-sized winery, they produce 1.5 million bottles annually from 110 hectares of vines. Rather subtle on the nose, this wine has aromas of black fruit, anise, coffee and spice. Dry and full bodied, the flavours are more pronounced, lifted by medium acidity and 13.5% alcohol. With its rather soft tannins, the texture is supple and juicy with a fresh finish. An excellent choice as a food match would be a mushroom risotto drizzled with truffle oil. (LG)

Tuscany

Il Cortile Del Castello Di Poppiano 2005
DOCG Chianti Colli Fiorentini $18.95 (087445)
A blend of 85% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo as well as splashes of Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the bouquet shows notes of liquorice, smoked meat, blackberry, cherry and cassis. On the palate it’s dry, medium to full bodied with fairly firm tannins, 13.5% alcohol and bright acidity. Chianti pairs very well with earthy foods—try baked penne with morel mushrooms, sage and cheese. (LG)

Veneto

Le Arche Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicalla $44.95 (095836)
Medium-deep ruby-brick in colour, there are pretty aromatics on the nose – plum, cherry, spice, bay leaf and floral notes. Dry and full bodied, the tannins are fine grained with medium acidity and flavours of nuts and dried fruit creating the impression of sweetness on the palate. Good finesse and elegance can also be added to the list of this wine’s merits. This would be great served with a traditional Venetian dish, Polenta con gli osei—polenta cooked with game birds. (LG)

Lebanon: Red Wine

Chateau Ksara ‘Reserve Du Couvent’ 2006
Bekaa Valley $12.95 (443721)
(Previously reviewed by Lindsay Groves, www.gremolata.com, Undated) 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 40% Syrah. 6 months in barrel followed by another 6 months in tank prior to bottling. Cherry, cassis, spice, pepper and blackberry nose. Dry and full bodied with tame tannins. Nose follows through onto palate with a medium-long finish. Score – 4 stars (out of 5). Match this great value wine from the Levant with traditional Middle Eastern fare such as taboule and fattoush salad, falafels and kibbeh (bulger-based shell stuffed with minced meat and spices). (LG)

Portugal: White Wine

Quinta De Azevedo ‘Vinho Verde’ 2007
DOC Vinho Verde $11.95 (727115)
Literally meaning “green wine”, vinho verde comes from the Minho region in the north of Portugal. Although these wines have a slight spritz they don’t quite qualify as semi-sparkling wines as they contain under one bar of CO2 pressure. Very pale straw in colour, there are delicate notes of peach, pear, floral and light citrus. Dry and light bodied with zesty acidity, it comes to a close with a lemony fresh finish. This would match perfectly with a citrus-infused ceviche as an appetizer. (LG)

Portugal: Red Wine

Roquevale Tinto 2003
DOC Alentejo $19.95 (080408)
This red is a blend of 70% Aragonez (a.k.a. Tempranillo), 15% Trincadeira and 15% Castelão and spends one year in stainless steel tanks followed by another six months in bottle prior to release. A deep garnet colour in the glass, there’s a myriad of aromas on the nose including cherry, liquorice, leather, game, earth and prune. Dry and medium bodied, there’s fresh acidity, smooth tannins and a slippery texture. Flavours of cherry, berries and earth shine through right onto the juicy fresh finish. Try this with a dish of chicken in a port and raisin sauce. (LG)

Spain: Red Wine

Cavas Hill ‘Gran Toc Hill Reserva’ 2002
DO Penedès $17.95 (673608)
I was very impressed with this wine, especially given the price. A blend of 60% Tempranillo, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 % Merlot, there are dirty, sexy notes of meat, spice, sweet smoke, mushroom/truffle, pepper and red and black fruit. With its medium- to full-bodied weight and firm tannins, it’s drinking beautifully right now. Flavours of cherry and red currant along with fresh acidity help to brighten up the palate and lead to a long, lingering finish. (LG)


Bodegas J.C. Conde Delgado y Otros ‘N Sentido’ 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $25.95 (082081)
This wine was treated to 10 months in American and French oak during its maturation and is deep ruby-brick in colour. There’s an interesting mix on the nose with liquorice, meaty aromas, berries, mineral, red fruit, earth and pepper. Dry and medium bodied, the tannins are velvety and there’s a good backbone of acidity. Try this wine with a selection of tapas including a little Manchego cheese and traditional cured meats. (LG)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: January 17, 2009

Vinecol Tempranillo 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (83261)
Clove, cinnamon and berry fruit aromas billow from this incredibly well-balanced and beautifully structured red. The full fruit flavours that originate from the organically grown grapes —black raspberry, black Bing cherry and gobs of it—are beautifully framed by a firm tannin structure, moderating acidity and a lip-smacking lengthy finish. Pair this with a thick grilled steak or a hearty vegetarian dish that includes kasha and Portobello mushrooms, now to 2012. (VH)

Vintages Release: January 31, 2009

Bodega Otto Bestué ‘Finca Rableros’ Tempranillo – Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DO Somontano, Spain $17.95 (78045)
Earthy, dusty, spice box and black plum compote on the nose, the juicy ripe flavours—sweet ripe cherry, kirsch liqueur and black licorice—are unleashed along on a medium- to full-bodied frame and satiny smooth texture. Well structured and deftly balanced, it delivers a long fruity finish with a dollop of anise and tarry notes. Pair this with a steaming bowl of Cajun Jambalaya. It offers very good value. (VH)


Zumaya Crianza Tempranillo 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $21.95 (93013)
Expressive and warm aromas of ripe dark cherry, sweet mulberry and cedar waft from this medium-bodied fully textured red. Look for layered flavours of black briary berry, spiced dark Damson plum and well-integrated oak. The lingering finish is well balanced and adds a delightful taste of bittersweet chocolate. It’s smooth mellow and drinking well now. Pair this with Portobello mushrooms grilled and filled with melted Asiago cheese. (VH)

Vintages Release: February 4, 2009

Graffigna ‘Centenario Reserva’ Malbec 2006
San Juan, Argentina $15.95
A step up from their entry level Malbec, 50% of this aged 12 months in an even split of French and American oak after 21 days maceration on the skins and full malolactic fermentation. There are hints of smoke and aromatic bitters on the nose while the mellow and expressive flavours bathe the palate—mulberry, ripe Bing cherry, and red pie cherry for great balance. The finish lingers and is full of ripe fruit flavour. This offers good value. (VH)


Graffigna ‘Centenario Reserva’ Pinot Grigio 2007
San Juan, Argentina $14.95
This is a stunning wine that deserves your attention; pick up at least a half-dozen. Almost off-dry, it has the spine of acidity and complexity of fruit to carry it off with flying colours. Floral, red licorice and fruity on the nose this wows the palate with a gusher of sweet tropical fruit and ripe delicious citrus that glides along on a medium-bodied frame and satiny-smooth texture. The finish is considerably lengthy and very well balanced with a dollop of ripe citrus flavours. Pair this with a spicy Asian dish like butter chicken. (VH)

Vintages Release: May 2, 2009

Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (17210)
With the price-quality balance heavily in your favour, keep a few on hand for barbeques. Fruit from vines 25 years old (on average) was hand picked and hand sorted spending 15 months in oak after fermentation and before bottling. Expressive aromas of spice box and field berry fruit segue rich and succulent flavours of black briary berry, spiced dark cherry and nuances of dark chocolate. There is perceptible tannin and a moderating spine of acidity that provides excellent balance. The finish is fruit forward and lengthy. (VH)

New in Vintages

Ontario

Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.20 (111989)
This is the first single-vineyard bottling from this site although the vines are 10 – 15 years old. It’s vanilla, leesy, toasty, oaky on the nose— barrel fermented, indigenous yeast, 20% new French oak. This is extremely well paced and deftly balanced with everything in synch. Look for spicy notes, delectable tropical fruit and ripe citrus nuances delivered on a medium-bodied bed of silky-smooth texture. The luxurious finishes lingers with the fruit flavours and racy tang in perfect harmony. (VH)


Tawse Winery ‘Robyn's Block’ Chardonnay 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $48.60
Lifted aromas of floral, mineral and vanilla notes segue the rich and incredibly expressive flavours of ripe citrus, white peach, ripe sweet peach and green apple that wash over the palate in a deftly balanced fully textured stream. It's medium to full bodied and delivers a lingering finish that layers on hints of spice and white grapefruit. It's a mouth-watering experience that deserves fine cuisine and a special occasion, turkey with sage dressing and all the fixings would be appropriate. (VH)


Tawse Winery Meritage 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $48.20 (111963)
This blend—50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc—is from single three vineyard plots—Laundry, Hughes, David’s. Although not yet certified, they’re organically farmed. Spice box and ripe red berry fruit on the nose, the rich flavours include ripe cranberry, red cherry and hints of forest floor on the lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and, as in all Tawse wines, there’s impeccable balance and elegant structure. Pair this with breaded pork cutlets and kasha. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

Funky Llama Chardonnay 2007
Mendoza $9.90 (614677)
Interesting aromas of spice, peach and floral notes waft from the glass of this value-priced Chardonnay. It’s medium bodied while the flavours—ripe pear, green apple and yellow peach—glide effortlessly along on a generous texture. The dry finish is balanced and refreshing. Drinks well on its own and pairs with clams in a white wine sauce over pasta. (VH)


Funky Llama Shiraz 2007
Mendoza $9.90 (614685)
Earthy, spicy with hints of tar on the nose, this deliver a Bistro-styled red that’s mellow and ready to drink. Medium bodied and delicately textured, there’s a generous stream of red cherry cordial and black plum compote flavours. It finishes warm and fruity pairing well with comfort food—pizza or lasagna. (VH)


La Puerta Shiraz 2007
La Rioja $10.55 (614636)
With hints of fennel and cherry cordial on the nose, this opens up on the palate with more ripe and sweet cherry flavours intermingling with dark ripe juicy berry fruit, especially on the finish. This is medium in body and texture with a nicely balanced lingering finish. Pair it with pizza, lasagna or spicy meat loaf. (VH)


Pasqual Toso Malbec 2007
Maipú Valley, Mendoza $12.95 (35170)
This is a friendly bistro-styled crowd-pleasing red delivering a mouthful of sweet berry fruit and good value. Aromas of dark berry fruit and hints of tar waft from the glass and segue flavours of sweet ripe briary berry and ripe juicy mulberry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and offers fruit forward finish. A good quaffing wine, this is easily paired with deli food—smoked meats, gourmet sausages and the like. (VH)


Pasqual Toso Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Maipú Valley, Mendoza $12.95 (93674)
A light-bodied offering that’s well balanced and quite aromatic, it opens with lime sherbet and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas. The flavours of ripe and juicy nectarine and peach are pleasing and delicious. This sips well on its own and pairs well with lightly herbed and spiced seafood. (VH)

Australia

Rosemount ‘Diamond Cellars’ Grenache - Shiraz 2007
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (476838)
This crowd-pleasing bistro-styled blend—55% Grenache, the balance Shiraz—delivers aromas and flavours of sweet cherry cordial and ripe berry fruit. Medium bodied and nicely textured, there are supple tannins and a persistent finish that layers on enough tang and acidity for good balance. This is very mellow and drinking well now. Check the spanking-new label and beautifully designed bottle. (VH)


Rosemount ‘Diamond Cellars’ Shiraz - Cabernet 2007
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (214270)
Deeply coloured, this holds great promise on the nose with aromas of earthiness, mixed spice and black currant jelly. It’s well balanced, generously textured, medium weight and fully flavoured—ripe, dark, juicy cherry, spicy black plum with a generous dollop of tangy cranberry on the generous finish. This offers a world of value pairing well with what you eat during the week—lasagna, chili or supermarket rotisserie chicken. (VH)


Rosemount ‘Diamond Cellars’ Traminer - Riesling 2008
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (244301)
This is very good value. Incredibly perfumed, there are copious amounts of floral notes, exotic spice, Muscat-like aromas and rosewater. It’s ever so slightly off-dry with gushers of flavours—spiced citrus, candied fruit and mango. This is well textured, sports good balance and leans toward a spicy food pairing. Pad Thai, butter chicken or spicy prawns all work. Australians are pragmatic—recognizing the ‘Gewürz’ in Gewürztraminer is difficult to say and spell... well, you see what they’ve done. (VH)


Tempus Two Cabernet Merlot 2006
Barossa Valley / Langhorne Creek, Australia $18.95 (91736)
Inky purple, this barrels out of the glass with lifted aromas of mixed spice and savoury herbs, aromatic bitters, toast and tarry notes. The flavours bathe the palate in rich and concentrated waves of prune plum compote, dark raisiny berry fruit and a mélange of sweet mulberry and racy pie cherry, all underpinned by ripe supple tannin. This is a superb rendering of Aussie fruit in a style that offers balance, a lengthy finish and very good value. (VH)


Tempus Two ‘Wilde’ Chardonnay 2007
Hunter Valley / Adelaide Hills, Australia $18.95 (91710)
Copious amounts of vanillin oak, toast and nutty aromas drift off the glass of this medium-bodied creamy-textured—barrel fermented with loads of lees stirring—gem. It was vinified using wild yeast (the play on words ‘Wilde’ is in reference to Oscar) and spent nine months in oak. Flavours of sweet yellow peach, honeydew melon, ripe pineapple and lemon zest burst forth on the mid palate while it finishes with a mouth-watering hit of ripe citrus tang and nuances of toasty oak. (VH)

California

Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Sauvignon Blanc 2006
California $10.95 (40501)
A delicious mouthful of persistent and racy flavours that earned its final half star on the very good value this blend provides; there’s 21.5% Semillon and 1.5% Chardonnay, as well. Smoky, mineral and citrus on the nose, it delivers a lovely rush of flavour on the palate with white grapefruit, ripe lemon and herbaceous notes galore. It’s light to medium bodied with a generous texture that lasts throughout the lengthy crisp and refreshing finish. Pair with pan-seared white fish or prawn ceviche. (VH)

France

Patriarche Père et Fils Pinot Noir 2006
AOC Bourgogne $15.95 (23903)
You won’t find many wines sporting the Burgundy appellation at this price and this offers rock solid Pinot Noir typicity along with fair value. As soon as you pour you’ll know it’s Pinot; there’s a tell-tale light purple hue with a red-orange tint when it’s in the glass. The aromas are fresh strawberry and mixed spice while the flavours—red currant, cranberry and pie cherry—are carried along on a light- to medium-body and lightly textured frame. It finishes focused and tart making it a wonderful food wine that pairs with veal, poultry and tomato-based dishes like lasagna or spicy meat loaf. (VH)

Ontario

Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay Sur Lie 2007
VQA Ontario $14.95 (111914)
This ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay was tank, rather than barrel, fermented and left on spent yeast cells for seven months with bi-weekly stirring, producing rich aromatics and a generous texture. Leesy, mineral and spice-laden on the nose, this delivers a tightly focused stream of lemon-lime zest and tang that’s nicely balanced with ripe tree fruit flavours—ripe pear, green apple and white peach. It’s well balanced and mouth-watering dry and crisp on the delightful finish. There’s good value here. (VH)


Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Sullyzwicker Red’ 2006
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (69625)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Still drinking well with a one dollar price reduction, it’s worth another purchase. Freshly picked and sliced strawberry aromas open up this built-for-fun red. Well balanced and medium bodied, it's straightforward and uncomplicated—spiced black plum and cherry flavours up front with no perceptible tannins and a food-friendly dollop of moderating acidity. Well-paced and well-priced, give it a go with burgers, pizza, or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Spain

Misterio Malbec 2007
Maipú $7.95 (28803)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This earned its ‘additional’ final half star on the recent two dollar price reduction. Smoke, oak and dark berry fruit on the nose, it settles into a beefy red with considerable tang and perceptible tannin. There are flavours of black currant, sour cherry and mixed spice on the palate while the medium-length finish layers on pleasant hints of tar and chocolate. This is a bistro-styled red, pairing well with pizza or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Charles Baker 'Picone Vineyard' Riesling 2007
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.00
Expressive and elegant, this attracts attention in the glass and in the bottle—it’s pristine and ageworthy. Shimmering straw-coloured with a slight tinge of green, this offers a lifted nose of heady floral notes with hints of mineral and diesel aromas. Medium bodied throughout and quite fleshy on the mid-palate, the flavours are crisp and lip-smacking delicious—white grapefruit, yellow peach and lemon-lime. Drink now to 2015 alongside pan-seared tuna. Order by the case of six from www.charlesbaker.ca for home delivery or pick some up at Stratus Winery. (VH)


Konzelmann Estate Winery Icewine Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 200 mL
A deep and gorgeous purple in the glass, this blossoms forth with aromas of strawberry, spice and plum. There’s a gusher of delectable flavours that wash over the palate in waves with black raspberry and strawberry, dipped in milk chocolate, to the fore. It’s perfectly balanced, nicely textured and provides a lingering finish that’s quite elegant. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Konzelmann Estate Winery ‘Grand Reserve’ Riesling Traminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00
A very aromatic nose of floral, honeyed pineapple and exotic incense segue flavours of candies nectarine and ripe red apple. This is medium bodied, generously textured and delivers a lengthy clean and refreshing finish of crisp apple and lemon-lime flavours. Pair this with smoked salmon on freshly baked bread smeared with herbed cream cheese. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Konzelmann Estate Winery Icewine Shiraz 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 200 mL
The deep rosé-coloured liquid sends off billows of fruity aromas, spicy red cherry, ripe juicy mulberry and black briary berry. There are more fruit flavours on the palate with ripe strawberry, black currant and zesty red currant. This is medium bodied, fully textured and finishes in perfect harmony without the slightest hint of cloying sweetness. Sip on its own as the dessert or with a generous slice of blue-veined cheese. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Strewn Winery ‘Strewn Three – Terroir’ 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.20
This is highly perfumed with a mélange of exotic aromas—cassis, creosote, smoke, cedar and mixed spice among them. It’s an even-split blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 4% Cabernet Franc. The flavour profile is quite extraordinary and it includes dark berry fruit, espresso roast, oaky notes, earthiness and leather—not for the faint of heart. It’s medium to full bodied, richly textured and delivers more of the same on the lingering finish. Smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce match up well. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery via Strewn. (VH)

New in Consignment

Humberto Canale Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Patagonia, Argentina $11.99
There are oodles of tropical fruit and citrus aromas and flavours in this friendly quaffer. It’s light to medium bodied and bathes the palate with pineapple, gooseberry and ripe mouth-watering citrus flavours that hang around nicely on the lengthy finish. It has enough acidity to handle a pairing with pan-seared freshwater fish and various other seafood dishes. Order this by the case of 12 for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)


Bodega Los Cerrillos ‘El Peral Reserva’ 2006
Tupungato, Mendoza $14.95
This red blend—an even split between Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon—punches so far above its price it’s not to be passed over. It’s chockfull of expressive aromas—anise, dark berry fruit and black licorice—plus lip-smacking flavours of rich juicy black jammy fruit. This crowd pleaser is medium bodied, generously textured and sports a long fruity finish. Find this wine and others from Argentina at the Woodside Wine Appreciation Club site, where private orders by the case of 6 (for some wines) or 12 are available. (VH)


Tempus Alba ‘Tempus’ Tempranillo 2006
Tupungato, Mendoza $18.40
Hand-picked fruit from fifty-year old vines provide the structure and depth for this gorgeous effort. It’s warm, sweet (14% alcohol) and flavourful with ripe black currant and cassis to the fore. Full bodied with firm ripe tannin and a silky texture, this delivers a lengthy finish with hints of mocha that’s well balanced and fully flavoured. Pair with a medium-rare grilled strip loin. Find this wine and others from Argentina at the Woodside Wine Appreciation Club site, where private orders by the case of 6 (for some wines) or 12 are available. (VH)

Cheers,

Lindsay and Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar