December 6, 2008 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with an LCBO feature on Special Selections for the holiday season. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure. As well, upcoming Vintages Releases, wines available in the LCBO General List section and Ontario wineries follow.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• The Champagne reviews bubble over with valuable information allowing you to enclose them with any you decide to gift—always a nice touch.
• Champagne taste on a beer budget? Discover 7 Sparkling Wines, most under $14—with tips how to open, serve and save them. Find them here.
• Find 4 and 4½ star wines for ten dollars and under and many for just slightly more after the Main Release—there are many good-value wines there.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Special Holiday Season Selections

Champagne

Pol Roger ‘Extra Cuvée de Réserve’ Champagne Brut 1999
AOC Champagne $82.95 (989137)
Elegant and classy, this vintage Champagne offers up an enticing bouquet of aromas with leesy notes, ripe citrus and exotic spice among them. The name Pol Roger and Winston Churchill remain inextricably entwined, not only because he named his most-prized racehorse, ‘Pol Roger’, but because of the flirtatious, reportedly harmless, relationship Sir Winston struck with Mme. Odette Pol-Roger. Pol Roger was also Sir Winston’s Champagne of choice with the 1928 his favourite. There’s a vibrant spice-laden and citrussy attack on the palate with copious amounts of fine persistent bubbles. It’s medium bodied and delicately textured with deft balance and a lingering dry crisp finish. While lovely sipped on its own, it truly sparkles when served with seafood appetizers. (VH)


Charles Heidsieck Champagne Réserve Brut
AOC Champagne $59.95 (0036962)
This Champagne house dates all the way back to 1785, founded by the firm of Florenz-Ludwig Heidsieck. Eventually the company was split up into Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck and Heidsieck & Co Monopole. Excluding the latter, these companies are owned by drinks giant Remy Cointreau. Their non-vintage Réserve Brut can be a blend of as many as eight different vintages; reserve wines composing up to 40% of the final blend. On the nose, this bubbly is rather subtle with notes of blanched nuts, lemon, custard and brioche. Dry on the palate, it’s medium bodied with refreshing acidity, 12% alcohol and a fine, creamy mousse. (LG)


Drappier Signature Blanc de Blancs Champagne Brut
AOC Champagne $50.95 (0599860)
Drappier is a Champagne that is very capable of ageing. On the nose there are lovely aromas of apple, pear, mineral, white linden flower and sweet spices. Dry and medium bodied, it has a clear, focused spine of acidity with 12% alcohol, a creamy mousse, great complexity followed by good length on the finish. One of the great things about Champagne is that it pairs well with almost any food, so it’s a way of cheating if you’re looking to come up with a food and wine pairing on the fly. (LG)


Henriot Souverain Champagne Brut
AOC Champagne $62.95 (0959643)
This particular wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay aged for three years on the lees. The nose is chalked full of green apples complemented by floral and mineral notes. On the palate it’s dry and light to medium bodied with a delicate mousse, 12% alcohol, steely acidity and a long, luxurious finish. (LG)


Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Champagne Brut
AOC Champagne $269.95 (038562)
This is forward, full bodied and from, arguably, the planet’s premium producer of bubbly. It’s also Krug’s flagship ageworthy cuvée. Typically, Krug Grande Cuvée is blended from as many as 50 wines from the three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and form six to ten different vintages. Baking brioche and clove-infused lemon aromas segue bold and beautiful flavours—spiced green apple, citrus and yellow peach—proffered on a generously textured bed of fine pinpoint effervescence that’s persistent and refreshing through the robust and lengthy finish. This has the structure and character to pair well with a festive bird—this year or any from now to 2012. (VH)

Rosé Champagne

Louis Roderer Champagne Brut Rosé 2003
AOC Champagne $88.95 (0368415)
A beautiful pale coppery-pink colour, delicate red fruit aromas abound on the nose along with apple and brioche. Dry and medium bodied, the sharp acidity cuts through the pretty, feminine floral and sweet strawberry, cherry and red berry flavours on the palate. With 12% alcohol, this Rosé is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, aged on the lees for four years resulting in a nice silky texture and fine mousse. One thing to consider is that Champagnes can be used to pair with courses throughout an entire meal. Because of their versatility, it’s possible to start with a light Champagne (or sparkling wine) and work your way up in weight to fuller bodied examples (which are often those that have higher amounts of Pinot Noir). A Rosé such as this one would lend itself to many main courses—salmon would be a natural pairing, but that’s just a start. (LG)

Sparkling Wine

Ontario

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (0616441)
The Cuvée Catharine Brut is officially one of my favourite sparklings. A bargain at under $30, I would dare anyone to pick it out of a line-up of Champagnes. With an exquisite nose of floral, brioche, sweet grapefruit, pear, apple and apricot aromas, it’s dry and light to medium bodied on the palate with bracing acidity, 12% alcohol and a fine, persistent mousse. (LG)

California

Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine
California $23.95 (0100693)
With a pale coppery-straw colour in the glass, the bouquet has notes of fresh country flowers, grass, apples and tree fruit. In the mouth it’s dry and medium bodied with 13% alcohol, a velvety mousse and medium acidity. Some light red fruit and vanilla bean flavours also come across on the palate. (LG)


Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine
Anderson Valley $28.95 (0294181)
Made from 100% estate grown grapes, this sparkler is an assemblage of four different vineyards and some of the reserve wines are oak aged resulting in great complexity and roundness on the palate. Aromas of apple, pear and lightly toasted coconut are displayed on the nose followed by sweeter, riper fruit on the palate. In the mouth it’s dry and medium bodied with bright acidity, a creamy mousse and 12% alcohol. (LG)

Niagara’s Stars: White

Konzelmann Vidal Ice Wine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $65.00 (476192) 375 mL
Konzelmann is right at the top of their game of late; here’s another fine example. Golden amber in the glass, this has lifted aromas of caramel, dark raisin, earthy mushroom and peel marmalade that literally jump from the glass. Showcasing incredible balance, this delivers an abundance of flavour with marmalade, blood orange, honeyed nectarine and piquant spice predominant. Canada’s outstanding contribution to world class wine, this is easily served as a stand-alone dessert—no accompaniment necessary. (VH)


Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (0033936)
A joint venture between Vincor (Canada) and Boisset (France), Clos Jordanne works with only two varieties: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They make wines in a Burgundian style but using Niagara terroir. They also work their vineyards organically, in 2005 received the Ecocert Canada certificate for organic farming, and carry out all vineyard procedures by hand. Light lemon in colour, the bouquet shows juicy ripe apple and pear aromas, with citrus and vanilla. On the palate it’s dry and full bodied with 13% alcohol, balanced acidity and flavours of supple tree fruit, peach and hazelnut with a lingering finish. (LG)

Niagara’s Stars: Red

Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (0033894)
The Village Reserve label is the entry-level wine from Le Clos—a blend of three different vineyards: Talon Ridge, Le Clos Jordanne and Claystone Terrace. The Village Reserve Pinot is excellent value with rather intense floral, mocha, cherry, cassis, and earthy and floral aromas. On the palate it’s dry and medium weight with tart acidity, fine, tightly wound tannins, 12.5% alcohol and good balance. Very well made and easily one of the top three Pinots from Ontario. (LG)


Château des Charmes 'Equuleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard' 2005
VQA St. David's Bench $40.00
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This magnificent 'Bordeaux blend'—50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot—provides a memorable imbibing experience—elegant and powerful. Earthy, oaky and smoky on the nose it delivers a controlled yet heady gusher of flavours including cassis, vanilla, black currant and black Damson plum. It's full bodied, nicely textured and delivers a well-balanced, spicy and lingering finish. There's moderating acidity for balance and still perceptible tannin for structure and ageing potential. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, until 2014. (VH)


Henry of Pelham 'Reserve' Cabernet / Merlot 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (395855)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Spice box, dried dark berry and black currant aromas open this medium-weight nicely textured blend—50% Merlot with the balance Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. There's a firm structure of tannin along with a lovely expression of concentrated ripe fruit flavours in the dark sweet cherry and black raspberry zones. Grape yields were limited to two to three tonnes per acre. Best cellared and opened 2011 to 2017, it's so good you may not want to wait—aerate / decant for three hours then pour alongside a strip loin, barbecued rare to medium rare. This earned the final half star in recognition of its exceptional value. (VH)


Tawse Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32.20 (0054809)
Tawse produces premium wines, using gravity-fed processing and natural geo-thermal energy. Acclaimed winemaking consultant Pascal Marchand from Burgundy was also hired to assist them in making the best possible wine. In the vineyard, both organic and biodynamic farming techniques are employed. They work with Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc as well as Pinot Noir. With an alluring nose of red currant, tea, earth and blueberries, it’s dry and medium bodied on the palate with bright acidity, fine, velvety
tannins and 12.5% alcohol. (LG)

The Icons

White Wines: France

Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 2006
AOC Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru $101.95 (087049)
With a pale straw colour, the nose showcases delectable notes of melted butter, lemon cake, butterscotch, hazelnut and minerality. With a silky texture it glides over the palate with good depth, medium weight, 13.5% alcohol, structured acidity and a long finish. (LG)


Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ 2006
AOC Chablis Grand Cru $69.95 (0655464)
The terroir of Les Clos is said to produce wines that are generous, powerful and capable of ageing. Louis Moreau is the sixth generation of his family to make wine in Chablis. The wine is aged with the minimal use of oak in order to let the purity of the fruit shine through. Yummy aromas of coconut cream pie, lemon drops, apple and diacetyl can be found on the nose. The palate is dry and medium to full bodied with 13% alcohol, steely acidity and a very silky, buttery texture. There’s also butterscotch and vanilla bean on the lingering finish. (LG)

Rosé Wines: France

Domaines Ott Rosé 2007
AOC Côtes de Provence $42.95 (074617)
If you feel wine should be priced on depth of colour, then this is expensive; if you like to pay for yours based on quality, then this is fairly priced—ignore the bottle; it would be more at home in a deppaneur. This red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsault—is a gorgeous coral pink in the glass with expressive aromas of earthiness, toast and mixed spice. It delivers a firm, focused and persistent stream of medium- to full-bodied and generously textured flavour—red cherry with slate and spice-infused red currant and cranberry. Perfectly paired with a festive bird, it’s also a pleasure to sip on its own. (VH)

Red Wines: California

Shafer ‘One Point Five’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $77.95 (045476)
Savoury spice and ripe fig on the nose, this delivers a hedonistic near-religious wine tasting experience. It’s rich, elegant and concentrated offering layered and persistent flavours of sweet warm (14.9% alcohol) cassis, Bing cherry, black currant, spiced black plum and balsamic. This is fully flavoured, full bodied and very generously textured—think big. Underpinned by supple tannin and moderated by a moderating spine of acidity, this will drink divinely now to 2018. (VH)


Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Alexander Valley, Sonoma $72.95 (943472)
Spearmint and ripe dark berry fruit aromas segue richly concentrated flavours of mulberry, espresso roast, and chocolate-covered cherries. There is perceptible tannin and seamlessly integrated oak that serve to underpin this nicely while the weight and texture are both quite generous. The fruit-forward and deftly balanced finish lingers. Drink now to 2014, after a three-hour aeration/decant, paired with a thick juicy slice of roast beef tenderloin, done rare to medium rare. (VH)


Sterling ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $85.95 (092346)
Rich black currant, notes of forest floor and highlights from a sprig of wild herbs and spice dominate the expressive nose of this well-balanced blend—it includes 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 2% Syrah. There’s a luscious attack of dark fruit flavours—Bing cherry, black briary berry, and a hints of black licorice and aromatic bitters. Medium in weight and texture, the tannins need time in the cellar. It finishes fruit forward—spiced red cherry—and deftly balanced. Drink 2011 to 2020. (VH)


Sterling Vineyards ‘Three Palms’ Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $94.95 (387860)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The Merlot in this hails from a very tony vineyard and gets full V.I.P. treatment—18 months in French oak, 40% new, and is egg-white fined. There’s also 19% Cab Sauv and 4% Petit Verdot in this. Savoury spice, sweet black plum and leather aromas segue succulent flavours of mulberry, cassis and black briary berry. It’s medium weight, fully textured and sports a persistent fruity finish with balance, toasty notes and elegance. Drink 2010 to 2018 alongside a medium-rare grilled rib eye. (VH)

Red Wines: Australia

Elderton ‘Command Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $96.95 (716142)
Aromatic and highly perfumed, there are aromas of dried crushed dark berry fruit, sweet cassis, coffee and molasses that blast from the glass of this sweet warm (14.5% alcohol) gem. Rich and robust flavours (it is after all from the Barossa) ooze from this full-bodied hugely textured behometh—ripe mulberry, peppery black raspberry and Damson plum. It’s needs a bit of time to open up, a three-hour aeration / decant for instance. The persistent finish layers on a glorious rush of flavour redolent of a rich chocolate milkshake. (VH)


Torbreck ‘Run Rig’ 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $274.95 (0997874)
Mostly Shiraz with a touch (3.5%) of Viognier, this wine was aged for 30 months in French and American oak. Deep ruby in colour, it has loads of boysenberry, mulberry, blackberry, cassis, herb-floral, game and smoky notes on the nose. It’s dry and full bodied with bright acidity, fine grained tannins and lots of juicy, sexy black fruits on the palate. (LG)

Red Wines: France

Domaine Ballot-Millot & Fils Beaune ‘Epenottes’ 2006
AOC Beaune 1er Cru $61.95 (0103317)
This Domaine is a small family-run operation of only 12 hectares. Although they consider themselves to be white wine specialists (60% of their production is white), they’re certainly not slouches when it comes to red. Classy red fruits on the nose—cherry, cassis alongside floral and earthy-clove notes. With a medium-bodied palate, there’s bright acidity, 13.5% alcohol and fine, unassuming tannins that sneak up closer to the finish. Some good black cherry flavours flesh out the palate. (LG)


Château Clos de Sarpe 1998
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $122.95 (0072140)
This gorgeous Saint-Émilion has a seductive, meaty, dirty nose with pepper, cherry, cassis, sweet soy, clove and spice. When it hits the palate it’s dry, full bodied with fresh acidity, 13% alcohol, smooth tannins and good complexity. This is a wine that I would probably drink without food first, just to appreciate its subtle and complex nature. It’s one to sip and nurse for a while, as it will really develop in your glass as the night wears on. (LG)


Château Ferrière 1995
AOC Margaux $129.95 (0072124)
Deep brick colour in the glass, this wine has a stinky nose of pepper, soy, molasses, cherry and red currant. The palate is dry and full bodied with good acidity, 12.5% alcohol, silky tannins and a nice, long finish. Very pronounced flavours, great complexity, well-balanced and perfectly aged. It’s a very classic wine, not to miss if you’re looking to splurge. (LG)


Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus 2006
AOC Beaune Grèves 1er Cru $129.95 (0043257)
This nearly 4-hectare vineyard was acquired by Bouchard Père & Fils when it was auctioned off post-French Revolution in 1791. The company is the sole owner of this highly acclaimed 1er Cru situated on a steep, sandy slope. Complex notes of cherry, cassis, liquorice, toast, cigar box and exotic spice on the nose. On the palate the fine, tight tannin structure is notable, with a medium to full body, juicy acidity and 13.5% alcohol. (LG)


Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $90.95 (0711317)
The vineyards that make Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape are planted with the 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, covering 70 hectares. The two varieties that compose the bulk of this cuvée are Mourvèdre (30%) and Grenache (30%). The wine is aged 12 months in oak and fined with egg whites to polish it up. With a deep ruby colour, there are focused notes of black fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry mushroom and earthiness. Medium to full bodied on the palate with 14% alcohol, juicy acidity and firm tannins. This is definitely one to set aside for a couple decades in order to fully benefit from its potential. (LG)

Red Wines: Italy

Poggio Salvi di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $78.95 (921916)
Perfumed and expressive aromas of plum and Christmas cake spice waft from the glass of this cellar dweller. It’s medium in weight and texture with a pronounced and persistent stream of tangy and zesty flavours—tart red cherry, cranberry and ripe pomegranate. The generous finish is well balanced. Taut and tightly focused at the moment, this will handsomely repay patient cellaring—drink 2011 to 2018. (VH)


Ornellaia 2005
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $158.95 (722470)
This is an iconic ‘Super Tuscan’ that connoisseurs and serious collectors seek out each vintage—even at this price it won’t stay on the shelf long. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. Dusty, earthy, balsamic and spice box on the nose, the flavours in this polished beauty fairly gush from the glass. They’re an amalgam of rich ripe fruit including juicy boysenberry, black currant, and sweet cassis. There’s a firm, but ripe tannin structure and a lengthy layered finish. Drinking comfortably now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2018. (VH)


Quintarelli Rosso Ca’del Merlo 2000
IGT Veneto $91.95 (958595)
Cherry clafouti and red licorice aromas segue layered and complex flavours of blueberry compote, kirsch liqueur and black briary berry. The oak has been deftly integrated while the tasting experience is enhanced with an underlying presence of supple tannin and moderating acidity. It’s medium in weight and texture and long on elegance and class. This opens up in the glass and would certainly benefit from a three-hour aeration / decant. (VH)


Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ‘Campolongo di Torbe’ 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $93.95 (548677)
Full disclosure; I’m an avowed fan of Masi. Balsamic and red berry fruit on the nose, this shifts into gear with a gusher of glorious flavours—concentrated cherry compote, succulent black plum and luscious raisined dark berry fruit. This shows excellent length, depth and structure. It’s from a searing hot vintage accounting for the ripe sweet flavours, but it also sports more than its fair share of tannin plus a luxurious lingering finish. Drink 2010 to 2015 alongside osso bucco. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

Bodegas Hidalgo Oloroso ‘Faraon’ Sherry
Jerez $21.95 (087502)
Aromas of toasted almond, raisins and rancio—peculiar to Sherry—drift from the glass of this dark amber nectar. The bone-dry flavours include more of those nutty characteristics with a wide swath of toasty nuances and yeasty tang cutting through. This is medium bodied, very generously textured and delivers a robust flavour attack through the mouth-watering finish. For an other-worldly food matching experience pair this with any of the following: consommé, chicken broth wild mushroom soup or simple toasted almonds. (VH)


Graham’s Crusted Port
Portugal $32.95 (726828)
The beauty of this ‘Crusted’ style of Port is that it has various ‘Vintage’ Port characteristics, but does not require lengthy cellaring—it’s ready to drink upon purchase. You’ll find sweet dark berry fruit, spice box, cassis and dark raisin flavours in this creamy-textured and mellow-tasting beauty. The sweet and warm finish layers on espresso roast and dried fig flavours. (VH)

Taylor Fladgate presents two 375 mL bottles of their iconic single-Quinta Ports, Vargellas and Terra Feita, in a wooden presentation box. This is an exceptional opportunity for gifting or for your personal very special tasting experience. Total price $82.95 (088195)


Quinta Terra Feita 2005
Portugal
Earthy, highly spiced and dark cherry aromas form the lifted nose while the flavours bristle with spice, tannin and hedonistic gushers of black currant, cassis and chocolate. The finish layers on hints of ripe fig and raisin. It’s full bodied, generously textured and will drink well 2015 to 2025. Pair with blue-veined cheese. (VH)


Quinta Vargellas 2005
Portugal
Perfumed aromas of lilac, balsamic and exotic incense waft from the nose of this more approachable gem. The tannin is riper and more supple and the flavours a bit more elegant, as well. The flavours are well paced and delectable—black licorice, black briary berry and black juicy Bing cherry with German prune plum on the well-balanced finish. Drink 2012 to 2025. Pair with dark Belgian chocolate. (VH)

Sparkling Wine: France

Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle D’Aurore’ Brut Rosé
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (0048793)
Made from Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir in the traditional method, this sparkling is a pretty pale copper-salmon colour with a berry-floral nose. Very fresh and delicate with a creamy mousse, crisp acidity, 12% alcohol and medium bodied. There are also some nice peppery notes on the palate. I was very impressed by this wine, especially for the price, it’s a great bargain. (LG)

Sparkling Wine: Italy

Bellussi Belcanto Spumante Extra Dry
DOC Valdobbiadene $19.95 (0053215)
This lovely Prosecco is made using the Charmat Method, also referred to as cuvée close, where the second fermentation is carried out in a pressure tank as opposed to in bottle as is the case with the traditional method. Very aromatic on the nose with floral, white fruit, coconut, green apple and sweet herb notes. Dry and light bodied on the palate with a very active, prickly mousse, crisp acidity, 11.5% alcohol and a fresh finish. Prosecco is the perfect apéritif to have on hand, especially over the holidays when you don’t necessarily want to be cracking open a bottle of Champagne every time somebody pops by. (LG)

Ontario: White

Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $26.00 (0542522)
In order to maximize the extraction of aromas and flavours prior to pressing and fermentation, the juice is left to soak on the skins for upwards of 42 hours. The fruit comes from Malivoire’s estate vineyard—the Gewürztraminer vines are around 9 years old (planted in 1999 and 2000). A dry and medium-bodied Gewürz’ with moderate acidity and 13% alcohol, it has a plush, round texture and a long finish. The aromas are well concentrated with ripe apple, ginger, spice, lychee, rose petals and papaya. (LG)

California: White

Sonoma-Cutrer ‘Russian River Ranches’ Chardonnay 2006
Russian River Valley $24.95 (608653)
Light yellow-gold in the glass, there are aromas galore including vanilla, tropical fruit and toasty oak—it was barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Medium bodied and fully textured, the flavours are tart, well defined and focused with white peach, ripe white grapefruit and piquant spice to the fore. It finishes dry, crisp and mouth-watering clean. This pairs particularly well with pan-seared white fish or scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. A Vintages Essentials product, it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

California: Red

Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $56.95 (014217)
This opens with a subdued and quiet nose of toasty notes and a savoury sprig of wild herbs. Bathing the palate with a sensuous wave of luscious flavours—ripe sweet boysenberry (14.8% alcohol), succulent black currant compote and spiced tart cherry—it finishes with a glorious rush of dark coffee roast and toasty oak. It’s medium bodied, fully textured with a lengthy well-balanced aftertaste. California Cab at its best. (VH)


Fess Parker ‘The Big Easy’ Syrah 2004
Santa Barbara County $40.95 (083212)
This opens with alluring aromas of balsam, exotic Asian spice and mixed dark berry fruit. Rich, complex and concentrated flavours abound—scrumptious Bing cherry, kirsch liqueur and cola are predominant. This is full bodied, fully flavoured with a silky smooth texture and a lingering finish. The oak has been deftly integrated and the balanced finish lingers nicely. Drink now to 2015 alongside grilled lamb, either tenderloin or rack. (VH)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $27.95 (521021)
Delicate mint and spice aromas form the subtle nose while the flavours on the palate are all about racy zest and tang—red currant, pomegranate and tart pie cherry—and a firm tannin structure. It’s medium in weight and texture with a surprisingly luscious finish sporting sweet red cherry, ripe mulberry and milk chocolate flavors. Drink now, after a two-hour-aeration/decant, and on to 2012. Pair with lasagna or a spice-laden tomato-meat sauce and pasta. (VH)


Ridge ‘Three Valleys’ 2006
Sonoma County $29.95 (652875)
Zin fans will not want to miss this, it’s fruit forward and lip-smacking good. It’s medium to full bodied and fully textured. Aromas and flavours of sweet raspberry jam, black plum compote and spiced cherry burst on the palate and persist throughout. There are also nuances of tar, black licorice and coconut—it was aged in American oak—on the lingering and well-balanced finish. It's a blend of 80% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, 5% Carignane, 5% Grenache. This presents good value and a pleasant experience tasted on its own or paired with rack of lamb. (VH)

Argentina: Red

Goulart Reserva Malbec 2006
Mendoza $18.95 (0083683)
Black fruits abound on the nose with violet, herbs and eucalyptus notes as well. An impression of sweetness because of all the ripeness, but it’s actually dry and full bodied with velvety tannins, 14.2% alcohol and juicy acidity. Quite concentrated and will last 1-3 years in the cellar. For an interesting comparison, try a Malbec from Argentina up against a Cahors—a wine also made from Malbec (a.k.a. Côt) in South-West France. (LG)


Graffigna ‘Grand Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Padernal Valley, San Juan Province $17.95 (060202)
The price-quality ratio is skewed in your favour—worth a multiple purchase for the holidays. The expressive nose blasts from the glass with dark berry fruit, creosote and cedar aromas. Gorgeous flavours abound with ripe black currant, Bing cherry and sweet cassis to the fore. Medium bodied and well textured, it delivers a persistent finish that puts the icing on the cake with a lovely hit of dark chocolate. (VH)


Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $22.95 (0050849)
‘Kaikenes’ are apparently wild geese that are indigenous to Patagonia. Who knew? This certainly has a lot of colour—deep inky ruby-purple, with super concentrated dark fruit on the nose. Pronounced on the palate as well with a full body, juicy acidity, 14.5% alcohol and flavours of raspberry, vanilla and smoke. (LG)


Zolo Reserve Malbec 2005
Mendoza $16.95 (0081091)
This wine is aged 80% in French and American oak for 14 months and a total of 32,000 cases were produced. A deep ruby-purple colour, there are aromas of vanilla, smoked raspberry, buckets of black fruit, cedar and cocoa. Dry and full bodied, it has moderate acidity, 14% alcohol, smooth tannins and sweet fruit on the finish. Because the tannins are a little softer in this wine, it makes it easier to pair with food. Meat would be the first thought, perhaps a strip loin grilled medium with some spicy cayenne frites. (LG)

Chile: White

Santa Rita ‘Floresta’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Leyda Valley $19.95 (0680959)
A very classic Sauvignon Blanc nose on this one with green bell pepper, white peppercorn, gooseberry, grass, citrus and sour apple. Light and tangy with 13.5% alcohol and a slightly rounder mouthfeel than expected. Some sweet basil and herbs on the palate leading to a crisp finish. Sauvignon Blanc tends to go well with higher-acid cheeses, hence the traditional pairing with goat’s cheese. Try a variation on classic pesto—spaghetti alio olio with fresh basil, pinenuts and fresh goat’s cheese. (LG)


Valdivieso Reserva Chardonnay 2006
Leyda Valley $17.95 (0981621)
Viña Valdivieso actually dates back to 1879 when Alberto Valdivieso founded Champagne Valdivieso—the first producer to make sparkling wine in South America. The grapes that go into this Reserva are hand harvested, and the wine spends nine months in French oak. Not too much of a nose on this one, faint pear, apple and banana notes. Dry and medium bodied on the palate, it has rather low acidity, 13.5% alcohol and a supple texture. (LG)


Morandé Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2005
Casablanca Valley $21.95 (0083287)
Founded in 1996, Morandé manages their vineyards according to organic principles. Spending a year in French oak, this Chard shows rich, overripe tropical fruit on the nose paired with sweet vanilla. On the palate it’s pronounced and full bodied with 14% alcohol, moderate acidity and intense candied fruit. This would go nicely with chicken in a pineapple cream sauce. (LG)

Chile: Red

Estampa Gold 2004
Colchagua Valley $17.95 (0047522)
There are a number of varieties in this blend: Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Obvious blackberry, vanilla and oak aromas on the nose. In the mouth it’s full and pronounced with 14% alcohol, juicy acidity, pliable tannins and sweet black fruit and liquorice flavours. This could be tasty with a chorizo pasta—the softer, fruit-driven character of the wine would complement the spiciness of the sausage. (LG)


Viña Tarapaca ‘Gran Reserva Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $19.95 (0081190)
Aged in French oak for a year, this Reserva also spends another year in bottle prior to release. Deep ruby in colour, it has lots of currant and blackberry on the nose with a dry, full bodied palate. The tannins are quite soft and lush, with juicy acidity, 14.5% alcohol and pronounced black fruit flavours with a touch of pepper and cocoa. (LG)

Australia: Red

Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (0595439)
Made by Poole’s Rock Wines, businessman David Clarke acquired a 13-hectare vineyard in 1994 which he named after the legend of the Cockfighter’s Ghost. Cockfighter was a horse belonging to a group of explorers in the 1830’s that met its demise after getting stuck in quicksand whilst crossing a river. This deep ruby-brick coloured Shiraz has complex notes of earth, cigar, menthol/medicinal, dust and red and black fruits on the nose. Dry and full bodied, it has juicy acidity, velvety tannins, 14.5% alcohol and pronounced black fruit flavours on the palate. The wine is good enough to at least make you temporarily forget about its unfortunate namesake. (LG)


d'Arenberg 'The Footbolt' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (984021)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a medium-bodied effort that opens up with a lifted nose of herbs, dark berry fruit and toasty oak. It also offers focused flavours of red cherry and cassis along with a generous dollop of moderating acidity that carries through to the spicy and dry finish. Offering good value, this will shine when paired with red meat dishes in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (VH)


Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
South Australia $20.95 (675223)
Complex, structured and intensely flavoured, this punches well above the price. There are dusty, earthy, mixed spice and mixed field berry fruit aromas on the nose before bathing the palate with spiced zesty red cherry, boysenberry and ripe black Damson plum flavours. It’s medium bodied with a plush mouth feel and a persistent well-balanced finish that layers on an interesting hint of minty chocolate. Drink now to 2016 alongside smoked and bar b cued back ribs slathered in spicy red sauce. (VH)


Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz/Grenache 2006
South Australia $20.95 (0009225)
A Rhône-style blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache aged for 16 months in older French and American oak barrels, it’s also left unfined and unfiltered. It flaunts a tasty bouquet of dusty red fruit, earth, meat and spices, which is followed onto the dry and full-bodied palate. The tannins are still firm, with 14.5% alcohol, balanced acidity and a polished texture. (LG)


Penley Estate ‘Condor’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2006
Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (0731893)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) with the remainder Shiraz. With a deep ruby colour, there’s intense eucalyptus, herbs, vanilla and black fruits on the nose. On the palate it’s dry and full bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a chewy texture and lots of intensity of flavour. A little overwhelming, but good value if you’re looking for a fruit bomb of a wine. (LG)


Wallace by Ben Glaetzer Shiraz/Grenache 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95 (0047605)
Ben Glaetzer is a Roseworthy College graduate and the son of Colin Glaetzer, who founded the winery. Ben’s philosophy parallels that of his father—making terroir-driven wines with minimal intervention. The name of the label, Wallace, is the ancestral name of Colin’s wife, Judith, who also happens to be a winemaker. With 70% Shiraz and 30% Grenache in the blend, there are pronounced aromas of vanilla, mint, eucalyptus, cherry, raspberry, cassis and liquorice on the nose. Dry and full bodied, the sweet fruit overflows onto the palate, with smooth tannins, high alcohol and moderate acidity. (LG)

South Africa: Red

Springfield Estate ‘Whole Berry’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Robertson $26.95 (063834)
Family-run and subject to meticulous vinification techniques—uncrushed berries fermented 2-3 weeks with wild yeast, 12 months in seasoned oak then bottled unfiltered—this will have interest for RSA-wine lovers. Tar and campfire smoke aromas billow from this medium- to full-bodied generously textured red. The luscious flavours include generous helpings of boysenberry, dark luscious cherry and rich dark Belgian chocolate. It finishes well balanced, fruity and with another billow of smoke and tar. (VH)

France: White

Burgundy

Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils ‘Beaune du Château’ 2006
AOC Burgundy, 1er Cru $44.95 (088716)
This is a gorgeous effort from a premiere Burgundy producer in an outstanding vintage—the perfect accompaniment to a festive bird with savoury stuffing plus all the usual accompaniments. It’ll be on my table Christmas day. Mineral, apricot and tropical fruit aromas drift from the nose while the succulent and layered sweet flavours include ripe luscious Mirabelle plum, ripe citrus, sweet pineapple, as well as subtle spice that are delivered on a silky smooth texture and medium-bodied frame. It finishes with great balance—sweet fruit and mouth-watering citrus tang. (VH)

France: Red

Bordeaux

Château D’Aiguilhe 2005
AOC Côtes de Castillon $47.95 (0501205)
This winery is owned by Stephan von Neipperg. In a rather new-world style, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc shows mostly red and black fruit on the nose, complemented by some dark chocolate. It’s dry and full bodied on the palate with 14.5% alcohol, bright acidity and moderate tannins. (LG)


Château Ramage ‘La Bâtisse’ 2000
AOC Haut-Médoc $41.95 (0732115)
Primarily composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, I found the nose on this one to be very vegetal, but with redeeming meatiness, pepper, cedar and red fruit. On the palate it’s dry and full bodied with smooth tannins, medium acidity with 12.5% alcohol and decent concentration. It’s already eight years old and I would be tempted to open it now, but it could hang on another year or two. Something to try it with would be a traditional Bordelais Pot au Feu, a hearty and unpretentious stew of meat and veg that is the perfect comfort food as the temperature gets colder. (LG)


Château Roland-La-Garde Cuvée Spéciale 2003
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $20.95 (0087676)
With a deep brick colour, this rather elegant wine displays black fruit, cedar and earth on the nose. On the palate it’s dry and full bodied with 13.5% alcohol, velvety tannins and notes of cherry, cassis, earth and pepper. I have probably mentioned it before, but I’ll say it again – this appellation offers many great value Bordeaux, and this wine is no exception. (LG)


Château Segue ‘Longue Monnier’ 2005
AOC Médoc $24.95 (0087700)
A sexy nose of sandalwood, myrrh, pepper, plum, floral layers, cherry and cassis easily draws you in, with a dry and medium-bodied palate. With moderate acidity, easy-going, approachable tannins, 12.5% alcohol and decent balance, this is a great wine for the price, although on the lighter side of the scale. (LG)

Rhône Valley

Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (993279)
This is a classy and elegant wine with much in its favour, despite the gaudy label. It’s quite aromatic with heady spice and herbs, floral notes, gamy nuances and cola aromas. They segue sweet dark berry fruit flavours with black currant, black plum compote and mulberry predominant. It’s delicately balanced, fully textured and adds toasty notes and a supple tannin structure on the lengthy aftertaste. Providing very good value, it earned its final half star because of it. Drinking well now and on to 2015. (VH)

Italy: Red

Sardinia

Argiolas Costera 2006
DOC Cannonau di Sardegna $20.95 (099028)
Pungent aromas of savoury herbs, tobacco and toasty notes open this rustic and flavourful red. There are racy tart cherry, cranberry tang and dried fig flavours that are entwined with a solid structure of grainy tannin. It’s medium in body and texture and sports a very dry finish. Drink this 2011 to 2015 alongside pasta in a meat and tomato sauce. (VH)

Tuscany

Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Poggio a’Frati’ 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $33.95 (023358)
Firm and focused this delivers a persistent and well-balanced stream of delicious fruit-forward wine. Introduced by a subtle and quiet nose of mixed spice and red berry fruit, it hits its stride on the palate with a well-paced stream of red fruit flavours—currant, cherry and strawberry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a succulent dry finish of sweet red cherry and zesty cranberry flavours. This is a food match made in heaven with lasagna or pasta puttanesca. (VH)

Veneto

Allegrini Valpolicella 2007
DOC Veneto $17.95 (560094)
Raisined berry fruit, a basketful of dried herbs and anise aromas open this medium-bodied red blend—Corvina, Rondinella and Marinara grapes. The flavours are in the red cherry and red currant zones. It’s well structured with perceptible, but acceptable, tannin and a well-balanced presentation between ripe fruit and moderating acidity. (VH)


Monte Zovo Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva $53.95 (651554)
Amarone gains its distinctiveness through a unique process—after harvest, grapes are left to dry for 3-4 months on straw mats, losing up to 40% moisture, then are fermented over four plus months. This ‘Riserva’ Amarone was then oak-cask aged for three years before bottling. Rich black briary berry, spice box and raisined berry fruit aromas and flavours abound in this fully textured medium-bodied gem. There are also copious amounts of cassis, slightly bitter nutty nuances and mulberry flavours that present on the lengthy finish. Considering process and quality, this is excellent value. Drink now to 2018. (VH)


Zonin Amarone della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $54.95 (086207)
This conventional grape blend—60% Corvina (including Corvinone), 35% Rondinella
and 5% Molinara—delivers a lifted nose of perfumed dark raisin, figs and dates. This is followed by a gorgeous cornucopia of concentrated flavours that include cassis, dark chocolate, black licorice and dried dark berry fruit flavours. It’s medium bodied and textured with a well-balanced dry finish. This was built to be paired with a rich stew like osso bucco. (VH)

Portugal: Red

Quinta das Bandeiras ‘Passagem’ Tinto 2005
DOC Douro $32.95 (094847)
The first vintage of this Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca blend is outstanding and could easily become a ‘collectable’—it’s worth picking up three and drinking 2010, ’12 and ’14. The nose is redolent of toasty oak and spice while the flavours are quite stunning with black raspberry, black Damson plum and gamey notes to the fore. It’s medium bodied, fully textured and the tannins are still quite firm. It finishes lengthy and impeccably balanced. Very impressive! (VH)

Spain: Red

Castillo Labastida Reserva 2001
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (095125)
This Tempranillo is beginning to show age with its ‘bricky’ colour, but there’s at least three years good drinking in its future. Highly perfumed and extremely approachable, even mellow, you’ll find aromas and flavours of mixed spice and herbs, warm ripe succulent briary berry (14% alcohol) and minty cherry on the palate. Medium bodied and textured, it sports a dry and balanced aftertaste of red pie cherry zest and tang. As with most ‘Wine of the Month’ selections, it delivers good value. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: February 28, 2009

Dominio Del Plata Syrah / Bonarda 2007
Mendoza $21.95
This red blend, an even split between Syrah and Bonarda, punches well above its price. The expressive nose offers earthy, dark berry fruit and exotic spice aromas then delivers an amazing rush of rich and concentrated flavour with black currant, ripe black briary berry and spiced black plum to the fore. The finish is particularly well balanced. This has depth and structure, providing an unfined, unfiltered, ageworthy gem. Drink now to 2014. (VH)

Vintages Release: March 14, 2009

Familia Zuccardi ‘Q’ Tempranillo 2006
Mendoza $18.95
The ‘Q’ stands for quality and this has its fair share. It’s silky smooth and built for easy drinking and early consumption. Black Bing cherry, leather and tobacco leaf on the nose, it gets into gear on the mid palate with pie cherry tang and luscious ripe mixed field berry flavour. It’s medium in weight and texture with a lengthy dry finish that layers on a nuance of mocha. This is a delightful match poured alongside pasta arrabbiata. (VH)

Vintages Release: April 2009

Bodega Lagarde Chardonnay 2007
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $13.95
Smoky, oaky, vanilla on the nose, this delivers persistent and involved waves of tropical fruit, Bosc pear, ripe yellow peach and mixed spice. It was 40% barrel-fermented and spent four months in French Oak with batonage—the wine is allowed to rest on the lees (primarily dead yeast cells) and is periodically stirred, providing a silky texture. The drip-irrigated fruit was hand-harvested and hand-sorted. It’s medium to full bodied and fully textured. This is one classy effort and offers incredible value. (VH)

Vintages Release: May 9, 2009

Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia - Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $13.95
With toast, ripe red cherry and hints of mint on the nose, this delivers a persistent stream of succulent flavour with red berry fruit, spice and rich mulberry to the fore. There are nuances of vanillin—this spent eight months in French oak—and a firm tannin structure. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a generous and well-balanced zesty finish. This is a very good wine an exceptional value; pick up a cartful. (VH)

Vintages Release: Winter/Spring 2009

Trapiche ‘Finca Las Palmos’ Malbec 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95
Aromas of dark berry fruit, a boxful of mixed spice and black licorice scoot off the glass of this deftly balanced food-friendly red. There are ladles of red cherry tang along with complementary flavours of heady cranberry and orange zest. It’s medium in weight and texture. The stream of moderating acidity sets this up beautifully for pizza, lasagna or Swiss steak. (VH)


Trapiche ‘Finca Las Palmos’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95
Mint, cherry and spiced black plum aromas segue a medium-bodied silky-smooth Cab. Delivering generous flavour on the palate—dark cherry and boysenberry—it finishes lengthy with ripe berry fruit and balancing pie cherry flavour. There’s ample structure from the supple tannin and enough oomph to pair it with a thick cut of strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

Misterio Malbec 2007
Maipú $9.90 (28803)
Smoke, oak and dark berry fruit on the nose, it settles into a beefy red with considerable tang and perceptible tannin. There are flavours of black currant, sour cherry and mixed spice on the palate while the medium-length finish layers on pleasant hints of tar and chocolate. This is a bistro-styled red, pairing well with pizza or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)


Trumpeter Merlot 2006
Tupungato, Mendoza $13.85 (467985)
Another wonderful value wine for the discriminating wine lover, this delivers heady aromas of currants and figs while luscious rich flavours shower the palate—cassis and rich ripe black Bing cherry. It’s well balanced and the tannin is imperceptible. There are also nuances of mocha and spice box on the lingering finish. It’s medium in texture and weight, but heavy on sweet and warm (13.5% alcohol) delicious ripe fruit flavour. (VH)

California

Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $12.45 (48611)
This won a ‘Gold Medal’ at the recent Ottawa Wine and Food Show. Look for earthy, minty and black berry aromas while the flavours are all about California Cab—ripe blackberry, cassis and black currant. There are also copious amounts of moderating tang, providing balance, and a grainy tannin structure, providing ageability. It’s medium in weight and texture and delivers a fruit-forward and lengthy finish. Aerate/decant this for two hours before serving then pour alongside a grilled and garlicky rib eye steak. (VH)

Chile

Conch Y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo – Reserva’ Chardonnay 2007
Central Valley $10.95 (58420)
Aromas of citrus, tropical fruit and toasty notes segue mouth-watering and racy waves of flavour with ripe lemon, green apple, pineapple and zesty lime to the fore. It’s nicely textured and well balanced pairing perfectly with lemon veal, roast chicken or pork dishes. It’s a very good wine at equally good value. (VH)


Conch Y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo – Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Rapel Valley $12.95 (94060)
Dark berry, balsamic and Christmas cake aromas drift off this well-balanced, rich and concentrated red. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and delivers a generous stream of ripe warm flavour (13.5% alcohol) with black raspberry, cassis and tar predominant. There’s ripe supple tannin for structure along with good zest and tang for balance. It finishes with a lovely hit of dark chocolate. The price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. (VH)

France

Sauvion & Fils Muscadet et Sèvre Maine ‘Sur Lie’ 2007
AOC Muscadet Sevre et Maine $10.90 (143016)
Made not with the Muscadet grape, but rather Melon de Bourgogne, this is from the Loire Valley near the city of Nantes—it’s also one of the best. It’s leesy, a.k.a. yeasty, on the nose along with aromas of chalk and slate. There’s excellent balance and a mouthful of flavours with lemon-lime citrus and hints orange peel among them. It’s medium in texture and body and perfectly paired with festive occasions and freshly shucked oysters served on the half shell with Tabasco sauce and freshly squeezed lemon. It earned its final half star on value. (VH)

Italy

Cavit ‘Collection’ Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT delle Venezie $11.65 (99218)
A very quiet nose of pit fruit and citrus opens this light- to medium-bodied and delicately textured white wine. There’s excellent racy tang and lots of zing throughout with heady flavours of citrus zest and pineapple. It finishes dry, clean and refreshing. This will pair well with pasta and seafood in a white wine sauce. (VH)


Cavit ‘Terrazze della Luna’ Pinot Grigio 2006
DOC Trentino $15.70 (65417)
There are floral and flint aromas on the nose that segue involved and layered flavours of yellow peach, spice, yellow plum and racy citrus. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lengthy mouth-watering finish. This is a food-friendly wine pairing easily with roast chicken, lemon veal or seafood dishes. (VH)


Citra Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007
DOC Abruzzo $7.25 (446633) also 1500 ml $12.95 (78840)
Recently winning a Gold Medal and ‘Best Value Wine Under $9’ at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show, it delivers a world of value—less that $6.50 per standard-size bottle if you purchase the magnum. You’ll find expressive aromas of spiced red cherry, forest floor and dried crushed dark berry fruit on the nose while the palate’s treated to an array of ripe and rich well-balanced flavours of dark cherry, blueberry and kirsch liqueur that are ably supported by moderating acidity and plush tannin. Tasted blind, seasoned tasters guessed the price at plus $15. (VH)


Montalto Nero d’Avola / Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
IGT Sicilia, Italy $10.00 (621151)
A recent Gold Medal winner in the $9 to $15 red wine category at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this out-scored wines costing half again as much—it’s great value. Nero d’Avola is a grape indigenous to Sicily and makes up 80% of this red blend. There are rich and robust aromas of black briary berry, black licorice and earthy nuances that segue richly concentrated fruit flavours that wash over the palate in delicious waves—black raspberry, Bing cherry and red pie cherry along with subtle notes of espresso roast and mocha. It’s medium bodied, generously textured, well balanced and sports a lingering finish. What’s not to like? (VH)


Montalto Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT Sicilia $9.95 (73148)
Pleasing aromas of mixed spice and hints of floral drift off the subdued nose while waves of heady flavours wash over the palate with citrus and ripe tree fruit predominant—apple, white peach and pear. It’s medium in body and texture with a well-balanced spicy finish. Pair this with a pasta and prawn appetizer. (VH)


Ruffino ‘Il Ducale’ 2005
IGT Toscana $19.80 (27797)
Predominantly Sangiovese, this ’05 vintage also includes 25% Merlot and 15% Syrah. The expressive nose offers a mélange of aromas including an armful of mixed spice and herbs, dusty-earthy characteristics and cola. The zesty flavours include red pie cherry, mulberry and black Damson plum compote. It’s well balanced, nicely textured and delivers a fruit-forward, spicy, dry and lingering finish. Good bang for your buck. (VH)

Okanagan Valley

Ganton and Larsen ‘Prospect Winery – The Census Count’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $14.95 (92296)
You can certainly count on this brand. There are lifted aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and savoury spice on the nose. Medium bodied and nicely textured it offers a delicious stream of apple, peach and warm ripe pear flavours (13.5% alcohol) that are nicely helped along with citrus tang and nuances of spice-infused pineapple. The finish is relatively lengthy and is well balanced. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pours well alongside lightly herbed and spiced chicken or veal dishes. (VH)


Ganton and Larsen ‘Prospect Winery - Fats Johnson’ Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $15.95 (92304)
You’ll strike it rich with this delicious wine from the Okanagan. It makes claim to a ready-to-drink red that’s full of flavour. There’s a vein of spice-laden and red raspberry aromas that segue sweet and plush fruit flavours including red plum, mixed field berry and rock-solid ripe pomegranate tang. The finish tails off slowly, well balanced and lip-smacking good. Unearth a couple when serving duck, turkey or any game bird. (VH)

Ontario

Château des Charmes Gamay Droit 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench $16.95 (582353)
Winery owner, Paul-Michel Bosc, propagated this clone from one found in his vineyard—it’s Canada’s first vinifera vine. Very expressive aromas of exotic spice, mulberry and dusty earthy nuances segue rich, and richly textured, flavours of ripe boysenberry, juicy Bing cherry and hints of spiced black plum. It’s medium bodied with a lingering impeccably balanced finish. Pair this with festive turkey accompanied by all the rich, savoury and flavourful fixings. (VH)


Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench $15.95 (391300)
Herbaceous notes and lemon pie-filling aromas rip from the expressive nose while the palate is blessed with a generous wave of satiny-textured flavours—ripe lemon curd and zesty key lime pie. It’s medium bodied and sports a lingering well-balanced finish that’s crisp and refreshingly clean. Rich and concentrated, it showcases the spectacular ’07 vintage. Pair this with a rich lobster mornay or coquilles St. Jacques. (VH)


Colio Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $11.95 (297184)
Look for red berry and spiced black plum aromas off the nose of this light- to medium-bodied and lightly textured red. There are loads of pie cherry zest and tang flavours intermingling with cranberry and pomegranate—all are consistent through the medium-length finish. Pair this with a zesty meat and tomato in pasta dish like lasagna. (VH)


Colio Estate Winery Shiraz / Cabernet 2006
VQA Ontario $12.75 (53652)
Ripe black berry fruit and dusty aromas waft from this lovely blend. It’s medium in weight and texture with ripe supple tannin and excellent balance throughout. The mid palate delivers an abundance of ripe warm flavours—kirsch liqueur, black currant compote and ripe mulberry. The finish lingers, searching for a plateful of bar b qued back ribs. (VH)


The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Trumpour’s Mill’ Riesling 2007
VQA Ontario $16.00 (28258)
Winning a Gold Medal at the recent Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this fooled those who tasted it blind into thinking it a top-notch Riesling from Germany. It’s steely and focused on the nose with mineral, slate and citrus aromas that open up to zesty and racy flavours of white grapefruit, white peach and ripe yellow plum on the palate. Medium bodied and nicely textured the finish lingers with ripe fruit flavours that showcase the exceptional ’07 vintage. Pair this with pan-seared fresh water fish under a generous drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Colio Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Ontario $11.55 (525535)
A cornucopia of aromas rips off the glass with rosewater, lychee, floral and spice notes among them. This is medium bodied, fully textured with good depth of flavour—tropical fruit, especially pineapple, spice and ripe citrus. It delivers that sweet and tang, yin and yang that allows it to pair so well with spicy Asian cuisine. Available from the winery cellar door, the 14 Colio retail stores, or for daily office or home delivery at Colio Winery (VH)


Colio Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2007
VQA Ontario $11.55 (525469)
Opening with a delicate nose of floral and beeswax nuances, you’ll discover a steady stream of delicious flavours through to the generous finish—minty citrus, ripe pineapple and white peach are noticeable. There’s medium weight and texture and excellent balance that set it up for a perfect pairing with pasta in an olive oil, garlic and herb sauce with clams. Available from the winery cellar door, the 14 Colio retail stores, or for daily office or home delivery at Colio Winery (VH)


Colio Estate Winery ‘CEV Reserve’ Meritage 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.75 (314880)
Very aromatic, mixed spice, cherry and raspberry aromas waft from the glass of this medium-weight and nicely textured blend. It’s 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, spent 18 months in oak and fermented 10 to 14 days on whole-berry skins. Medium weight and textured, it’s full flavoured—ripe cranberry, sour cherry and black plum—and sports considerable tannin. Decant /aerate two hours before serving and drink now to 2012. Available from the winery cellar door, the 14 Colio retail stores or for daily office or home delivery at Colio Winery (VH)


Colio Estate Winery ‘CEV Reserve’ Riesling 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.35 (31824)
Germanic in style, this earned its final half star on the excellent value it provides. Mineral and lemon-lime sherbet on the nose, the flavours are a glorious gusher of ripe citrus, honeyed peach and sweet spice-infused yellow plum flavours. There’s deft balance, generous texture and a lingering slightly off-dry aftertaste. Lovely to quaff on its own, it’s also a great partner with baked ham. Available from the winery cellar door, the 14 Colio retail stores, or for daily office or home delivery at Colio Winery (VH)


Colio Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $11.75 (489872)
A shimmering yellow-gold in the glass, the aromas are slightly herbaceous while the palate is treated to a wave of citrus and ripe pineapple flavours. There’s an underlying stream of citrus acidity while the finish layers on some interesting floral and mint-flavoured notes. This will pour nicely alongside pan-seared fresh water fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. Available from the winery cellar door, the 14 Colio retail stores, or for daily office or home delivery at Colio Winery (VH)


Konzelmann Estate Winery ‘White Moose’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.20
Recent winner of a Gold Medal and ‘Best of Show – White Wine’ at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this is slightly off-dry and well worth a case purchase from the winery—many certainly have. Slight hints of petrol on the nose intermingle with gorgeous aromas of slate and tropical fruit—primarily pineapple and melon. The silky smooth texture coats the palate with a glorious mouth-watering shower of perfectly balanced flavour. There’s more tropical fruit flavour along with sweet and ripe nectarine, fresh mango and a lovely splash of moderating citrus acidity allowing it to finish lengthy, luxurious and lip-smacking good. This pairs perfectly with baked ham, mashed potatoes and corn. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

Cheers,

Vic and Lindsay

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

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	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar